2006 SUZUKI SWIFT range

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine 1D-41 Engine Mechanical:
Valve head radial runout
Check each valve for radial runout with a dial gauge and
“V” block. To check runout, rotate valve slowly. If runout
exceeds its limit, replace valve.
Valve head radial runout
Limit: 0.08 mm (0.003 in.)
Seating contact width
Create contact pattern on each valve in the usual
manner, i.e., by giving uniform coat of marking
compound to valve seat and by rotatingly tapping seat
with valve head. Valve lapper (tool used in valve lapping)
must be used.
Pattern produced on seating face of valve must be a
continuous ring without any break, and the width of
pattern must be within specified range.
Standard seating width “a” revealed by contact
pattern on valve face
Intake and Exhaust: 1.0 – 1.4 mm (0.0389 – 0.0551
in.)Valve seat repair
A valve seat not producing
a uniform contact with its
valve or showing width of seating contact that is out of
specified range must be repaired by regrinding or by
cutting and regrinding and finished by lapping.
1) Exhaust valve seat:
Use valve seat cutters (1 ) to make two cuts as
illustrated in the figure. Two cutters must be used:
the first for making 22 ° angle, and the second for
making 45 ° angle. The second cut must be made to
produce desired seat width.
Seat width for exhaust valve seat
“a”: 1.0 – 1.4 mm (0.0389 – 0.0551 in.)
2) Intake valve seat:
Use valve seat cutters (1) to make three cuts as
illustrated in the figure. Th ree cutters must be used:
the 1st for making 22 ° angle, the 2nd for making 60 °
angle, and 3rd for making 45 ° angle. The 3rd cut
(45 °) must be made to produce desired seat width.
Seat width for intake valve seat
“b”: 1.0 – 1.4 mm (0.0389 – 0.0551 in.)
3) Valve lapping:
Lap valve on seat in two steps, first with coarse size
lapping compound applied to face and the second
with fine-size compound, each time using valve
lapper according to usual lapping method.
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Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Engine Mechanical: 1D-46
Pistons, Piston Rings, Connecting Rods and
Cylinders Disassembly and Assembly
S7RS0B1406031
Disassembly1) Using piston ring expander, remove two compression rings (Top and 2nd) and oil ring from
piston.
2) Remove piston pin from connecting rod as follows. a) Ease out piston pin circlip (1), as shown.
b) Force piston pin out.
Assembly 1) Decarbonize piston head and ring grooves using a suitable tool.
2) Install piston pin to piston (1) and connecting rod (2): a) After applying engine oil to piston pin and piston pin holes in piston and connecting rod.
b) Fit connecting rod as shown in figure.
NOTE
Be sure to position front mark or arrow mark
(4) on piston and oil hole (5) of connecting
rod at specified position as shown in figure.

c) Insert piston pin to piston and connecting rod.
d) Install piston pin circlips (3).
NOTE
Circlip should be installed with its cut part
facing as shown in figure. Install so that
circlip end gap comes within such range as
indicated by arrow.

3) Install piston rings to piston:
• As indicated in the figure, 1st and 2nd rings have discrimination mark (4) respectively. When
installing these piston rings to piston, direct
marked side of each ring toward top of piston.
• 1st ring (1) differs from 2nd ring (2) in thickness, shape and color of surface contacting cylinder
wall.
Distinguish 1st ring from 2nd ring by referring to
the figure.
• When installing oil ring (3), install spacer first and then two rails.
4) After installing three rings (1st, 2nd and oil rings), distribute their end gaps as shown in figure.
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1. 1st ring end gap 3. Oil ring upper rail gap
2. 2nd ring end gap and oil ring spacer gap 4. Oil ring lower rail gap
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Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Engine Lubrication System: 1E-3
6) Start engine and warm engine up to normal operating temperature.
NOTE
Be sure to shift transaxle gear shift lever in
“Neutral” (shift select lever in “P” range for
A/T vehicle), set parking brake and block
drive wheels.

7) After warming up, raise engine speed to 4,000 r/min. and measure oil pressure.
Oil pressure specification
More than 270 kPa (2.7 kg/cm2, 39.8 psi) at 4,000
r/min. (rpm)
8) After checking oil pressure, stop engine and remove oil pressure gauge and attachment.
9) Before reinstalling oil pressure switch (2), be sure to
wrap its screw threads with sealing tape (1) and
tighten switch to specified torque.
NOTE
If sealing tape edge is bulged out from screw
threads of switch, cut it off.

Tightening torque
Oil pressure switch (a): 13 N·m (1.3 kgf-m, 9.5
lb-ft) 10) Start engine and check oil pressure switch for oil
leakage. If oil leakage is found, repair it.
11) Connect oil pressure switch coupler (1).
Repair Instructions
Heat Exchanger ComponentsS7RS0B1506001
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4
5
7
6
(a)
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1. Heat exchanger inlet No. 1 hose 4. Gasket7. O-ring
: Apply engine oil.
2. Heat exchanger outlet No. 1 hose 5. Heat exchanger stand bolt : 22 N⋅m (2.2 kgf-m, 16.0 lb-ft)
3. Heat exchanger 6. Oil filter adapter case : Do not reuse.

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine 1G-3 Fuel System:
4) Check that battery voltage is 11 V or more.
5) Measure fuel pressure at each condition.If measured pressure is out of specification, refer to
“Fuel Pressure Check in Section 1A” and check each
possibly defective part. Replace if found defective.
a) Turn ignition switch ON to operate fuel pump and after 2 seconds turn it OFF. Repeat this 3 or 4
times and then check fuel pressure.
Fuel pressure specification
With fuel pump operating and engine
stopped: 270 – 310 kPa (2.7 – 3.1 kg/cm2, 38.4
– 44.0 psi)
b) Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature, and measure fuel pressure at
idling.
Fuel pressure specification
At specified idle speed: 270 – 310 kPa (2.7 –
3.1 kg/cm2, 38.4 – 44.0 psi)
c) Stop engine, and measure fuel pressure at one minute after stopping.
Fuel pressure specification
With 1 min. after engine (fuel pump) stop
(Pressure reduces as time passes): Over 300
kPa (3.0 kg/cm
2, 42.7 psi)
6) After checking fuel pressure, remove fuel pressure gauge.
WARNING!
As fuel feed line is still under high fuel
pressure, make sure to release fuel pressure
according to the following procedures.
• Place fuel container under joint.
• Cover joint with rag and loosen joint nut slowly in order to release fuel pressure
gradually.

7) Remove special tools from fuel delivery pipe and fuel feed hose.
8) Connect fuel feed hose to fuel delivery pipe and clamp it securely.
9) With engine OFF and ignition switch ON, check for fuel leaks.
Fuel Cut Operation InspectionS7RS0B1704002
NOTE
Before inspection, make sure that gear shift
lever is in neutral positi on (shift select lever
is “P” range for A/T vehicle), A/C is OFF and
parking brake lever is pulled all the way up.

1) Warm engine up to normal operating temperature.
2) While listening to sound of injector (2) by using sound scope (1) or such, increase engine speed to
higher than 3,000 r/min.
3) Check to make sure that injector operation sound is stop when throttle valve is closed instantly and it is
heard again when engine speed is reduced to
approx. 2,000 r/min or less.
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Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine 1G-7 Fuel System:
Fuel Pressure Relief ProcedureS7RS0B1706003
CAUTION!
This work must not be done when engine is
hot. If done so, it may cause adverse effect to
catalyst.

NOTE
If ECM detects DTC(s) after servicing, clear
DTC(s) referring to “DTC Clearance in
Section 1A”.

1) Make sure that engine is cold.
2) Shift transaxle gear shift lever in “Neutral” (shift select lever in “P” range for A/T model), set parking
brake and block drive wheels.
3) Remove relay / fuse box cover.
4) Disconnect fuel pump relay (1) from relay / fuse box (2).
5) Remove fuel filter cap in order to release fuel vapor pressure in fuel tank, and then reinstall it.
6) Start engine and run it until engine stops for lack of fuel. Repeat cranking engine 2 – 3 times for about 3
seconds each time in order to dissipate fuel pressure
in lines. Fuel connections are now safe for servicing.
7) After servicing, connect fuel pump relay (1) to relay / fuse box and install re lay / fuse box cover.
Fuel Leakage Check ProcedureS7RS0B1706004
After performing any service on fuel system, check to
make sure that there are no fuel leakages as follows.
1) Turn ON ignition switch for 3 seconds (to operate fuel pump) and then turn it OFF.
Repeat this (ON and OFF) 3 or 4 times and apply
fuel pressure to fuel line until fuel pressure is felt by
hand placed on fuel feed hose.
2) In this state, check to see that there are no fuel leakages from any part of fuel system.
Fuel Lines On-Vehicle InspectionS7RS0B1706005
CAUTION!
Due to the fact that fuel feed line (1) is under
high pressure, use special care when
servicing it.

Visually inspect fuel lines for evidence of fuel leakage,
hose crack and deterioration or damage.
Make sure all cl amps are secure.
Replace parts as needed.
Fuel Pipe Removal and InstallationS7RS0B1706006
WARNING!
Before starting the following procedure, be
sure to observe “Precautions on Fuel System
Service” in order to reduce the risk or fire
and personal injury.

Removal
1) Relieve fuel pressure in fuel feed line according to “Fuel Pressure Relief Procedure”.
2) Disconnect negative cable at battery.
3) Disconnect fuel pipe joint and fuel hose (3) from fuel pipe (2) at the front and rear of each fuel pipe
referring to “Fuel Hose Disconnecting and
Reconnecting”.
4) Mark the location of clamps (1) on fuel pipes (2), so that the clamps can be reinstalled to where they
were.
5) Remove pipes (2) with clamp (1) from vehicle.
6) Remove clamp (1) from pipes (2).
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Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine 1H-8 Ignition System:
Ignition Coil Assembly (Including ignitor)
Removal and Installation
S7RS0B1806005
Removal1) Disconnect negative (–) cable at battery.
2) Remove air cleaner assembly with air intake pipe and cylinder head upper cover.
3) Disconnect ignition coil coupler.
4) Disconnect high-tension cord (3) from ignition coil assembly (2).
5) Remove ignition coil bolts (1) and then pull out ignition coil assembly.
Installation 1) Install ignition coil assembly (2).
2) Tighten ignition coil bolts (1) to specified torque, and then connect igni tion coil coupler.
Tightening torque
Ignition coil bolt (a): 10 N·m (1.0 kgf-m, 7.5 lb-ft)
3) Install high-tension cord (3) to ignition coil assembly while gripping its cap.
4) Install cylinder head upper cover and air cleaner assembly with air intake pipe.
5) Connect negative (–) cable to battery.
Ignition Coil Assembly (Including ignitor)
Inspection
S7RS0B1806006
Measure secondary coil for resistance.
If resistance is out of specification, replace ignition coil
assembly.
Secondary coil resistance
7.5 – 10.3 k Ω at 20 °C, 68 ° F
Ignition Timing InspectionS7RS0B1806007
NOTE
• Ignition timing is not adjustable. If ignition
timing is out of specification, check
system related parts.
• Before starting engine, place transmission gear shift lever in “Neutral” (shift selector
lever to “P” range for A/T model), and set
parking brake.

1) Connect scan tool to DLC (1) with ignition switch OFF.
Special tool
(A): SUZUKI scan tool
2) Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.
3) Make sure that all of electrical loads except ignition are switched off.
4) Check to be sure that idle speed is within specification referring to “Idle Speed and IAC
Throttle Valve Opening Inspection in Section 1A”
5) Fix ignition timing by using “Fixed Spark” of “Misc Test” mode on scan tool.
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Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine 1I-1 Starting System:
Engine
Starting System
Schematic and Routing Diagram
Cranking System Circuit DiagramS7RS0B1902001
Diagnostic Information and Procedures
Cranking System Symptom DiagnosisS7RS0B1904001
Possible symptoms due to starting system trouble would be as follows:
• Starting motor does not run (or runs slowly)
• Starting motor runs but fails to crank engine
• Abnormal noise is heard
Proper diagnosis must be made to determine exactly where the cause of each trouble lies in battery, wiring harness,
(including starting motor switch), starting motor or engine.
Do not remove motor just because starting motor does not run. Check the following items and narrow down scope of
possible causes.
1) Condition of trouble
2) Tightness of battery terminals (including ground cable connection on engine side) and starting motor terminals
3) Discharge of battery
4) Mounting of starting motor
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1. Pinion drive lever 6. Magnetic switch contacts 11. Ignition & Starter switch
2. Pinion & Over-running clutch 7. Pull-in coil 12. Battery
3. Magnetic switch 8. Starting motor 13. To ECM
4. Hold-in coil 9. Starting motor control relay
5. Plunger 10. A/T: Transmission range switch (shift lever switch)

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Wheels and Tires: 2D-2
Lower than recommended pressure can cause:
• Tire squeal on turns
• Hard Steering
• Rapid and uneven wear on the edges of the tread
• Tire rim bruises and rupture
• Tire cord breakage
• High tire temperature
• Reduced handling
• High fuel consumption
Replacement Tires
When replacement is necessary, the original equipment
type tire should be used. Refer to the Tire Placard.
Replacement tires should be of the same size, load
range and construction as those originally on the vehicle.
Use of any other size or type tire may affect ride,
handling, speedometer / odometer calibration, vehicle
ground clearance and tire or snow chain clearance to the
body and chassis.
It is recommended that new tires be installed in pairs on
the same axle. If necessary to replace only one tire, it
should be paired with the tire having the most tread, to
equalize braking traction.
WARNING!
Do not mix different types of tires on the
same vehicle such as radial, bias and bias-
belted tires except in emergencies, because
handling may be seriously affected and may
result in loss of control.

The metric term for tire infl ation pressure is the kilo
pascal (kPa). Tire pressures is usually printed in both
kPa and kgf/cm
2 on the “Tire Placard”.
Metric tire gauges are available from tool suppliers.
The chart, shown the table, converts commonly used
inflation pressures from kPa to kgf/cm
2 and psi.
Wheels DescriptionS7RS0B2401002
Wheel Maintenance
Wheel repairs that use welding, heating, or peening are
not approved. All damaged wheels should be replaced.
Replacement Wheels
Wheels must be replaced if they are bent, dented, have
excessive lateral or radial runout, air leak through welds,
have elongated bolt holes, if lug wheel bolts won’t stay
tight, or if they are heavily rusted. Wheels with greater
runout than shown in the following may cause
objectional vibrations.
Replacement wheels must be equivalent to the original
equipment wheels in load capacity, diameter, rim with
offset and mounting configuration. A wheel of improper
size or type may affect wheel and bearing life, brake
cooling, speedometer / odometer calibration, vehicle
ground clearance and tire clearance to body and
chassis.
How to Measure Wheel Runout
To measure the wheel runout, it is necessary to use an
accurate dial indicator. The tire may be on or off the
wheel. The wheel should be installed to the wheel
balancer of the like for proper measurement.
Take measurements of both lateral runout “a” and radial
runout “b” at both inside an d outside of the rim flange.
With the dial indicator set in place securely, turn the
wheel one full revolution slowly and record every reading
of the indicator.
When the measured runout exceeds the specification
and correction by the balancer adjustment is impossible,
replace the wheel. If the reading is affected by welding,
paint or scratch, it should be ignored.
Lateral runout limit “a”
: 0.3 mm (0.012 in.)
Radial runout limit “b”
: 0.3 mm (0.012 in.)
kPa kgf/cm2psi
Conversion: 1 psi =
6.895 kPa 1 kgf/cm
2 =
98.066 kPa 160 1.6 23
180 1.8 26
200 2.0 29
220 2.2 32
240 2.4 35
260 2.6 38
280 2.8 41
300 3.0 44
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