2006 INFINITI M35 roof rack

BL-12
SQUEAK AND RATTLE TROUBLE DIAGNOSIS
Revision: 2006 January2006 M35/M45
TRUNK
Trunk noises are often caused by a loose jack or loose items put into the trunk by the owner.
In addition look for:
1. Trunk lid dumpers out of adjustment
2. Trunk lid striker out of adjustment
3. The trunk lid torsion bars knocking together
4. A loose license plate or bracket
Most of these incidents can be repaired by adjusting, securing or insulating the item(s) or component(s) caus-
ing the noise.
SUNROOF/HEADLINING
Noises in the sunroof/headlining area can often be traced to one of the following:
1. Sunroof lid, rail, linkage or seals making a rattle or light knocking noise
2. Sunvisor shaft shaking in the holder
3. Front or rear windshield touching headlining and squeaking
Again, pressing on the components to stop the noise while duplicating the conditions can isolate most of these
incidents. Repairs usually consist of insulating with felt cloth tape.
SEATS
When isolating seat noise it's important to note the position the seat is in and the load placed on the seat when
the noise is present. These conditions should be duplicated when verifying and isolating the cause of the
noise.
Cause of seat noise include:
1. Headrest rods and holder
2. A squeak between the seat pad cushion and frame
3. The rear seatback lock and bracket
These noises can be isolated by moving or pressing on the suspected components while duplicating the con-
ditions under which the noise occurs. Most of these incidents can be repaired by repositioning the component
or applying urethane tape to the contact area.
UNDERHOOD
Some interior noise may be caused by components under the hood or on the engine wall. The noise is then
transmitted into the passenger compartment.
Causes of transmitted underhood noise include:
1. Any component mounted to the engine wall
2. Components that pass through the engine wall
3. Engine wall mounts and connectors
4. Loose radiator mounting pins
5. Hood bumpers out of adjustment
6. Hood striker out of adjustment
These noises can be difficult to isolate since they cannot be reached from the interior of the vehicle. The best
method is to secure, move or insulate one component at a time and test drive the vehicle. Also, engine RPM
or load can be changed to isolate the noise. Repairs can usually be made by moving, adjusting, securing, or
insulating the component causing the noise.

BL-288
BODY REPAIR
Revision: 2006 January2006 M35/M45
1. Hood
2. Front fender (RH&LH)
3. Side body assembly (RH&LH)
4. Outer front pillar reinforcement (RH&LH)
5. Center pillar reinforcement (RH&LH)
6. Outer roof side rail reinforcement (RH&LH)
7. Outer sill reinforcement (RH&LH)
8. Inner roof side rail (RH&LH)
9. Inner center pillar (RH&LH)
10. Front roof rail brace (RH&LH)
11. Outer sill (RH&LH)
12. Inner rear pillar assembly (RH&LH)
13. Inner rear pillar rear (RH&LH)
14. Inner rear pillar reinforcement (RH&LH)
15. Outer rear wheelhouse (RH&LH)
16. Outer rear wheelhouse extension (RH&LH)
17. Inner rear wheelhouse (RH&LH)
18. Side parcel shelf assembly (RH&LH)
19. Seat back support (RH&LH)
20. Parcel shelf assembly
21. Rear waist
22. Roof assembly
23. Front roof rail
24. Front roof bow
25. Rear roof bow
26. Rear roof rail
27. Rear fender assembly (RH&LH)
28. Rear fender extension (RH&LH)
29. Rear bumper side bracket
30. Fuel filler lid (RH)
31. Rear panel assembly
32. Upper rear bumper retainer
33. Lower rear bumper retainer
34. Front door assembly (RH&LH)
35. Outer front door panel (RH&LH)
36. Rear door assembly (RH&LH)
37. Outer rear door panel (RH&LH)
38. Trunk lid
39. Front bumper reinforcement
40. Rear bumper stay
41. Rear bumper reinforcement

EI-8
SQUEAK AND RATTLE TROUBLE DIAGNOSES
Revision: 2006 January2006 M35/M45
TRUNK
Trunk noises are often caused by a loose jack or loose items put into the trunk by the owner.
In addition look for:
1. Trunk lid dumpers out of adjustment
2. Trunk lid striker out of adjustment
3. The trunk lid torsion bars knocking together
4. A loose license plate or bracket
Most of these incidents can be repaired by adjusting, securing or insulating the item(s) or component(s) caus-
ing the noise.
SUNROOF/HEADLINING
Noises in the sunroof/headlining area can often be traced to one of the following:
1. Sunroof lid, rail, linkage or seals making a rattle or light knocking noise
2. Sunvisor shaft shaking in the holder
3. Front or rear windshield touching headlining and squeaking
Again, pressing on the components to stop the noise while duplicating the conditions can isolate most of these
incidents. Repairs usually consist of insulating with felt cloth tape.
SEATS
When isolating seat noise it's important to note the position the seat is in and the load placed on the seat when
the noise is present. These conditions should be duplicated when verifying and isolating the cause of the
noise.
Cause of seat noise include:
1. Headrest rods and holder
2. A squeak between the seat pad cushion and frame
3. The rear seatback lock and bracket
These noises can be isolated by moving or pressing on the suspected components while duplicating the con-
ditions under which the noise occurs. Most of these incidents can be repaired by repositioning the component
or applying urethane tape to the contact area.
UNDERHOOD
Some interior noise may be caused by components under the hood or on the engine wall. The noise is then
transmitted into the passenger compartment.
Causes of transmitted underhood noise include:
1. Any component mounted to the engine wall
2. Components that pass through the engine wall
3. Engine wall mounts and connectors
4. Loose radiator mounting pins
5. Hood bumpers out of adjustment
6. Hood striker out of adjustment
These noises can be difficult to isolate since they cannot be reached from the interior of the vehicle. The best
method is to secure, move or insulate one component at a time and test drive the vehicle. Also, engine RPM
or load can be changed to isolate the noise. Repairs can usually be made by moving, adjusting, securing, or
insulating the component causing the noise.

HEADLINING
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Revision: 2006 January2006 M35/M45
REMOVAL
1. Remove front pillar garnish (LH/RH). Refer to EI-37, "BODY SIDE TRIM" .
2. Remove roof harness and antenna feeder securing clip using a clip clamp remover after removing front
pillar garnish (LH/RH), and then disconnect roof harness and antenna feeder connectors.
3. Remove rear seat cushion and seatback. Refer to SE-172, "
REAR SEAT" .
4. Remove front kicking plate inner, center pillar lower garnish, center pillar upper garnish, front body side
welt, rear kicking plate inner, rear wheelhouse garnish, rear pillar finisher, rear body side welt. Refer to EI-
37, "BODY SIDE TRIM" .
5. Disconnect antenna feeder connectors of antenna amplifier and
sub-antenna feeder after removing rear pillar finisher (LH), and
then remove antenna feeder securing clip using a remover.
6. Models with sunroof: Remove mounting plastic clips of front
assistance grip (LH/RH) and rear assistance grip (LH/RH), and
then remove bolts.
Models with standard roof: Remove mounting plastic clips of
front assistance grip (LH) and rear assistance grip (LH/RH).
CAUTION:
Always use SST, and attach a cloth to protect from dam-
age.
Assistance grip is crimped from back of headlining.
Remove it by disengaging the crimping area of back of
lamp after removing headlining from the vehicle.
7. Remove screws on personal lamp (in coat hanger hook).
8. Remove rear display unit. (models with mobile entertainment system) Refer to AV- 2 9 2 , "
Rear Display
Unit" .
9. Remove sun visor bracket cover and mounting screws, and then remove sun visors (LH/RH).
NOTE:
Disconnect vanity mirror illumination harness connector when removing sun visor.
10. Remove screws of dual-visor, and then remove dual-visor (LH/RH).
11. Insert a screwdriver into the sun visor holder cutout and rotate
90 degrees to remove sun visor holder (LH/RH).
12. Remove map lamp assembly. (models with LDW system)
13. Remove passenger seat assembly. Refer to SE-163, "
FRONT SEAT" .
14. Using a removal tool, remove body side mounting plastic clip from rear side of headlining.
PIIB4939E
PIIB3585J
SIIA0224J

FUEL SYSTEM
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Revision: 2006 January2006 M35/M45
FUEL SYSTEMPFP:17503
Checking Fuel LinesNBS005R8
Inspect fuel lines, fuel filler cap and fuel tank for improper attach-
ment, leaks, cracks, damage, loose connections, chafing or deterio-
ration.
If necessary, repair or replace damaged parts.
General PrecautionsNBS005R9
WAR NING :
When replacing fuel line parts, be sure to observe the following.
Put a “CAUTION: FLAMMABLE” sign in the workshop.
Be sure to work in a well ventilated area and furnish workshop with a CO2 fire extinguisher.
Do not smoke while servicing fuel system. Keep open flames and sparks away from the work area.
CAUTION:
Use gasoline required by the regulations for octane number. Refer to GI-6, "Precautions for Fuel
(Unleaded Premium Gasoline Required)" .
Before removing fuel line parts, perform out the following procedures:
–Put drained fuel in an explosion-proof container and put the lid on securely. Keep the container in
safe area.
–Release fuel pressure from the fuel lines. Refer to EC-98, "FUEL PRESSURE RELEASE" (VQ35DE)
or EC-809, "
FUEL PRESSURE RELEASE" (VK45DE).
–Disconnect the battery cable from the negative terminal.
Always replace O-ring and clamps with new ones.
Do not kink or twist tubes when they are being installed.
Do not tighten hose clamps excessively to avoid damaging hoses.
After connecting fuel tube quick connectors, make sure
quick connectors are secure.
Ensure that connector and resin tube do not contact any
adjacent parts.
After installing tubes, make sure there is no fuel leakage at
connections in the following steps.
–Apply fuel pressure to fuel lines with turning ignition switch
“ON” (with engine stopped). Then check for fuel leaks at
connections.
–Start engine and rev it up and check for fuel leaks at con-
nections.
Use only a genuine NISSAN fuel filler cap as a replacement.
If an incorrect fuel filler cap is used, the “MIL” may come
on.
For servicing “Evaporative Emission System” parts, refer to
EC-39, "
EVAPORATIVE EMISSION SYSTEM" (VQ35DE) or
EC-749, "
EVAPORATIVE EMISSION SYSTEM" (VK45DE).
For servicing“On Board Refueling Vapor Recovery (ORVR)”
parts, refer to EC-46, "
ON BOARD REFUELING VAPOR
RECOVERY (ORVR)" (VQ35DE) or EC-756, "ON BOARD
REFUELING VAPOR RECOVERY (ORVR)" (VK45DE).
SMA803A
SBIA0504E

GW-8
SQUEAK AND RATTLE TROUBLE DIAGNOSES
Revision: 2006 January2006 M35/M45
TRUNK
Trunk noises are often caused by a loose jack or loose items put into the trunk by the owner.
In addition look for:
1. Trunk lid dumpers out of adjustment
2. Trunk lid striker out of adjustment
3. The trunk lid torsion bars knocking together
4. A loose license plate or bracket
Most of these incidents can be repaired by adjusting, securing or insulating the item(s) or component(s) caus-
ing the noise.
SUNROOF/HEADLINING
Noises in the sunroof/headlining area can often be traced to one of the following:
1. Sunroof lid, rail, linkage or seals making a rattle or light knocking noise
2. Sunvisor shaft shaking in the holder
3. Front or rear windshield touching headlining and squeaking
Again, pressing on the components to stop the noise while duplicating the conditions can isolate most of these
incidents. Repairs usually consist of insulating with felt cloth tape.
SEATS
When isolating seat noise it's important to note the position the seat is in and the load placed on the seat when
the noise is present. These conditions should be duplicated when verifying and isolating the cause of the
noise.
Cause of seat noise include:
1. Headrest rods and holder
2. A squeak between the seat pad cushion and frame
3. The rear seatback lock and bracket
These noises can be isolated by moving or pressing on the suspected components while duplicating the con-
ditions under which the noise occurs. Most of these incidents can be repaired by repositioning the component
or applying urethane tape to the contact area.
UNDERHOOD
Some interior noise may be caused by components under the hood or on the engine wall. The noise is then
transmitted into the passenger compartment.
Causes of transmitted underhood noise include:
1. Any component mounted to the engine wall
2. Components that pass through the engine wall
3. Engine wall mounts and connectors
4. Loose radiator mounting pins
5. Hood bumpers out of adjustment
6. Hood striker out of adjustment
These noises can be difficult to isolate since they cannot be reached from the interior of the vehicle. The best
method is to secure, move or insulate one component at a time and test drive the vehicle. Also, engine RPM
or load can be changed to isolate the noise. Repairs can usually be made by moving, adjusting, securing, or
insulating the component causing the noise.

GW-12
WINDSHIELD GLASS
Revision: 2006 January2006 M35/M45
4. Remove the cowl top cover. Refer to EI-18, "COWL TOP" .
5. Remove roof side molding. Refer to EI-25, "
ROOF SIDE MOLDING" .
6. Apply a protective tape around the windshield glass to protect the painted surface from damage.
After removing moldings, remove glass using piano wire or power cutting tool A and an inflatable pump bag B.
If a windshield glass is to be reused, mark the body and the glass with mating marks.
WA R N I N G :
When cutting the glass from the vehicle, always wear safety glasses and heavy gloves to help pre-
vent glass splinters from entering your eyes or cutting your hands.
CAUTION:
When a windshield glass is to be reused, do not use a cutting knife or power cutting tool.
Be careful not to scratch the glass when removing.
Do not set or stand the glass on its edge. Small chips may develop into cracks.
INSTALLATION
The dam rubber should be installed in position.
Use a genuine Nissan Urethane Adhesive Kit (if available) or equivalent and follow the instructions fur-
nished with it.
While the urethane adhesive is curing, open a door window. This will prevent the glass from being forced
out by passenger room air pressure when a door is closed.
The molding must be installed securely so that it is in position and leaves no gap.
Inform the customer that the vehicle should remain stationary until the urethane adhesive has completely
cured (preferably 24 hours). Curing time varies with temperature and humidity.
WAR NING :
Keep heat and open flames away as primers and adhesive are flammable.
The materials contained in the kit are harmful if swallowed, and may irritate skin and eyes. Avoid
contact with the skin and eyes.
Use in an open, well ventilated location. Avoid breathing the vapors. They can be harmful if
inhaled. If affected by vapor inhalation, immediately move to an area with fresh air.
Driving the vehicle before the urethane adhesive has completely cured may affect the perfor-
mance of the windshield in case of an accident.
CAUTION:
Do not use an adhesive which is past its usable term. Shelf life of this product is limited to six
months after the date of manufacture. Carefully adhere to the expiration or manufacture date
printed on the box.
Keep primers and adhesive in a cool, dry place. Ideally, they should be stored in a refrigerator.
Do not leave primers or adhesive cartridge unattended with their caps open or off.
The vehicle should not be driven for at least 24 hours or until the urethane adhesive has com-
pletely cured. Curing time varies depending on temperature and humidity. The curing time will
increase under lower temperature and lower humidity.
Repairing Water Leaks for Windshield
Leaks can be repaired without removing and reinstalling glass.
If water is leaking between the urethane adhesive material and body or glass, determine the extent of leakage.
This can be done by applying water to the windshield area while pushing glass outward.
To stop the leak, apply primer (if necessary) and then urethane adhesive to the leak point.
PIIB5779E

SQUEAK AND RATTLE TROUBLE DIAGNOSES
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Revision: 2006 January2006 M35/M45
TRUNK
Trunk noises are often caused by a loose jack or loose items put into the trunk by the owner.
In addition look for:
1. Trunk lid dumpers out of adjustment
2. Trunk lid striker out of adjustment
3. The trunk lid torsion bars knocking together
4. A loose license plate or bracket
Most of these incidents can be repaired by adjusting, securing or insulating the item(s) or component(s) caus-
ing the noise.
SUNROOF/HEADLINING
Noises in the sunroof/headlining area can often be traced to one of the following:
1. Sunroof lid, rail, linkage or seals making a rattle or light knocking noise
2. Sunvisor shaft shaking in the holder
3. Front or rear windshield touching headlining and squeaking
Again, pressing on the components to stop the noise while duplicating the conditions can isolate most of these
incidents. Repairs usually consist of insulating with felt cloth tape.
SEATS
When isolating seat noise it's important to note the position the seat is in and the load placed on the seat when
the noise is present. These conditions should be duplicated when verifying and isolating the cause of the
noise.
Cause of seat noise include:
1. Headrest rods and holder
2. A squeak between the seat pad cushion and frame
3. The rear seatback lock and bracket
These noises can be isolated by moving or pressing on the suspected components while duplicating the con-
ditions under which the noise occurs. Most of these incidents can be repaired by repositioning the component
or applying urethane tape to the contact area.
UNDERHOOD
Some interior noise may be caused by components under the hood or on the engine wall. The noise is then
transmitted into the passenger compartment.
Causes of transmitted underhood noise include:
1. Any component mounted to the engine wall
2. Components that pass through the engine wall
3. Engine wall mounts and connectors
4. Loose radiator mounting pins
5. Hood bumpers out of adjustment
6. Hood striker out of adjustment
These noises can be difficult to isolate since they cannot be reached from the interior of the vehicle. The best
method is to secure, move or insulate one component at a time and test drive the vehicle. Also, engine RPM
or load can be changed to isolate the noise. Repairs can usually be made by moving, adjusting, securing, or
insulating the component causing the noise.