2006 GREAT WALL SO COOL check engine

CL-2Clutch
Troubleshooting
Troubleshooting
Trouble Causes Repairing approaches
Difficulty in gearshift
or non-gearshiftOverlarge free stroke of clutch pedal
There is air in clutch pipe
Failure of clutch brake-wheel cylinder
Failure of clutch master cylinder
Overlarge clutch pendulum difference due to incorrect mounting, the
friction liner is stained with oil or is breaking
There is dirty or adhesive materials on spline of input shaft or clutch rib
Failure of clutch pressure plateAdjust the free stroke of pedal
Exhaust the air in clutch pipe
Change the clutch brake-wheel cylinder
Change the master cylinder
Check the clutch rib
Repair according to requirement
Change the clutch pressure plate
Disengagement of gear
box or clutch slipAbrasion of clutch guide shaft
Insufficient free stroke of clutch pedal
The friction liner of clutch rib is stained with oil or is worn
Failure of clutch pressure plate
Seize up of separation forkChange the guide shaft
Adjust the free stroke of pedal
Check the clutch rib
Change the clutch pressure plate
Check the separation fork
Clutch seize-up or
shakingThe friction liner of clutch rib is stained with oil or is worn
Failure of clutch pressure plate
Looseness of engine seatCheck the clutch rib
Change the clutch pressure plate
Repair according to requirement
Looseness of clutch
pedalThere is air in clutch pipe
Failure of clutch brake-wheel cylinder
Failure of clutch master cylinderExhaust the air in clutch pipe
Change the clutch brake-wheel cylinder
Change the master cylinder
Over-loud clutch noiseSeize up of separation fork;
Abrasion or stained spot of separation bearing
Abrasion of guide bearing
Parts looseness in clutch pressure plateRepair according to requirement
Change the separation bearing
Change the guide bearing
Change the clutch pressure plate

TF-3Transfer Box
Troubleshooting
Common troubles Causes Resolving approaches
Change the lubricant or supplement the
lubricant volume.
Guarantee the torque of all connecting
elements stand at the specified value.
Open the transfer case to check the
bearing and othe parts whether is weared
or daamaged,if this happened,change
the parts.
Difficulty in mechanic gearshift or
outplace gear engagement
Troubleshooting
Incorrect lubricant or insufficient
lubricant volume.
Looseness of connecting bolt or other
connecting element.
Noise from the transfer box bearing Noise, which is spreader by the transfer
box instead of clutch, engine, drive shaft
and other parts, occurs in each speed. No driving of front wheel in the four-
gear engagementDrive chain breakDisassemble and check the damage of
inner parts, and change the chain. Adjust or repair shift lever.Open the
transfer box to check the toggle fork and
guide shaft, and change the parts as
requirement.Open the transfer box to
check whether the parts is wearied or not,
and, if any, change the weary parts.Open
the transfer box to check whether the
parts is wearied or not, and, if any, change
the weary parts.Open the transfer box to
check whether the parts is wearied or not,
and, if any, change the weary parts. Overlarge loose fit clearance of the
shift toggle fork on the shift guide
shaft.
Wear of the shift toggle fork
assembly including pin and contact
roller.
Wear of the shift cam hub and the
liner.
Attainment of coupling gear Mechanic gearshift seizing at a certain
location Engagement failure of the mechanically
shift transfer boxDamage or unsuitable adjustment of
the shifting mechanism.
Damage or serious wear of the inner
shifting parts, or looseness or
attainment of the shift toggle fork
assembly on the guide shaft.
Unsuitable adjustment of shift lever.Adjust or repair the shift lever mechanism.
Change the seriously wearied parts.
Change the loose or weary parts. Refer to the vehicle manual for correct
operation.
Add the specified oil of given volume.
Open the rear cover of transfer box to check
and changer the damaged parts.
Open the rear cover of the transfer box to
check whether the sliding parts can slide
freely along the axle, if not, dismantle it and
change the damaged parts. Incorrect operation.
Lubricant of inferior quality or
insufficient volume.
Adhesive bonding of shift toggle fork.
Adhesive bonding of the sliding joint
cover, locking sleeve or gear. Mechanic gearshift failure under the
movement of shifting handleBreak or damage of the shift rocker
arm or shift lever.
Damage of the guide plate of shifting
cam;Change the damaged element.
Open the rear cover of the transfer box to
check the damaged element and change
it. Electric gearshift troubleDamage or failure of electrically
controlled element, electric module,
speed sensor, electric motor, electric
clutch, or built-in wire harness.
Damage or worn of shifting cam,
joint cover, locking sleeve, toggle
fork or shift guide axle.Adhesive
bonding shiftRefer to the vehicle usage manual to
diagnose the failure element and change
it as requirement.
Dismantle the weary or damaged parts
and change it as requirement.
Dismantle and check the free movement
of sliding element, and change it as
requirement

TF-4Transfer Box
Troubleshooting
Common troubles CausesResolving approaches
Unsuitable tire pressure.
Noise, which is spread by the transfer
box instead of the clutch, engine or other
parts, occurs at each speed.Gear noise.
Damage or wear of chain gear or
chain.Open to check whether there is weary
element or damaged element (including
the odometer gear) and, if any, change
them
Noise occurs in the high-speed or low-
speed four-gear driving.Open to check whether there is wear or
damage, and if any, adjust the tire pressure
to suitable value.
Oil leakage in transfer box. Frame Break of transfer box.
Oil leakage of other element.
Ventilation pipe block
Over-added lubricant or lubricant of
unsuitable brand
Looseness of the bolts on sealing
face.
Sealing glue of different brand or
unused sealing glue.
Oil seal wear or damage.Change the frame.
Check the leakage by wiping dry.
Open and clean it and, if necessary,
change it.
Use the specified lubricant and adjust the
lubricant to suitable volume.
Propel the bolts tightly as requirement.
Use the specified sealing glue and propel
the bolts tightly as required.

TF-65D5D-Oil filling plug
5L-Oil drain plug5L2. Regular lubricant change
(a) The oil level of lubricant in transfer box shall be checked
when exchanging the engine lubricant or after the vehicle
covers 8000 kilometers, and the lubricant shall be added
as requirement.
(b) The lubricant shall be changed with the specified one
every year or after the vehicle covers 48000 kilometers.
3. Lubricant inspection approach
(a) Clean the oil filling plug and the around area.
(b) Open the oil-filling plug to check whether the lubricant
can flows out or not.
(c) if the lubricant can flow out, which means the real
lubricant volume is under the prescribed value, and the
specified lubricant shall be added into the transfer box
until the lubricant can flow from the oil filler hole.
(d) Propel the oil-filling plug tightly according to the given
Tightening moment.
Tightening moment
(19
30)N
m
Notice: The vehicle shall run for a certain time before
checking or exchanging the lubricant so that the
temperature of lubricant in transfer box may be a little
higher. Do not use hammer or other punching tools to
open or propel the oil drain plug or oil filling plug, otherwise,
the thread hole on the frame will be damaged
4. Lubricant change
(a) Clean the oil filling plug and oil drain plug and the around
area.
(b) Put down a oil container under the transfer box.
(c) Open the oil drain plug.
(d) Open the oil-filling plug.
(e) Drain the lubricant up.
(f) Mount the oil drain plug and screw it up according to the
given Tightening moment.
Tightening moment
(19
30)N
m
(g) Add the lubricant through the oil filler hole until the
lubricant overflows. Mount the oil-filling plug and tighten
it according to the Tightening moment.
Tightening moment : (19
30)N
m Transfer Box
lubricant grade: ATF--3Product Description and Simple Maintenance

TF-8Transfer Box
Disassembly and Mount of Transfer Box
2. Transfer box mount
a) Coat the lubricant grease on the output axial
spline of the gearbox with a thin sleeve contain-
ing lubricant grease.
b) Mount a new gasket on the mounting face of the
transfer box.
c) Lift the lifting bracket of transfer box and align
it to the same axle with the gearbox.
Notice: The transfer shall be guaranteed to flush
with the gearbox before connecting the spline.
Do not handle it forcefully to press the transfer
box spline into the gearbox. Otherwise, damage
will be caused, run the rear output shaft where
necessary to aim at the spline.
(d) Move the transfer box forward slowly so that
the spline and pin of the input shaft of gearbox
reach the front body of the transfer box, and the
gasket attaches on the gearbox completely.
(e) Ensure that the mounting holes of the front
body of transfer box, gasket, and gearbox are in
alignment and then mount the sets of bolt and
nut.
Fastening torque
(35-48)N
m
(f) Connect the rear drive shaft and the rear output
flange of the transfer box.
(g) Connect the front drive shaft and the front
output fork flange of the transfer box.(h) Connect the venting valve and the soft ventila-
tion pipe.
(i) Connect the cables of odometer that locates
nearby the transfer box.
(j) Connect all wire harnesses that connected with
the transfer box, and
(k) Add the lubricant of right brand.
Notice: when starting the engine, if the lubricant
is added incorrectly or in unsuitable volume,
which may lead the transfer box to damage.
Notice: as for the transfer box mounted on
vehicle, oil pump shall be used when adding oil
for it.
Notice: In case the transfer box is taken apart for
maintenance or inspection, there will be no
lubricant supplied by oil pump in the oil passage
on the top of transfer box. Therefore, it is not
accurate to control the oil volume by opening the
oil filling plug, in such condition, the oil passage
will be filled with oil once the oil pump runs. If the
wheel can run, such operation can be conducted
on the lifting jack. The oil level shall be rechecked
once the oil pump runs.
(l) Put down the vehicle after finishing the lubri-
cant inspection, and connect the cell cathode.

BR-5Braking System
Inspection and Adjustment
pedal push rodbraking lamp switch
pedal push-rod
free stroke of
pedal: (3-6) mm
Inspection and adjustment
Inspection on and adjustment of brake pedal
1. Check the pedal height as shown in the drawing to
whether it is correct,
The height from the pedal to the front floor:
Dr SF
160mm
SL SK SY SJ
(190-200)mm
2. Adjust the pedal height if necessary:
(a) Loosen the locking nuts of braking lamp switch;
(b) Loosen the braking lamp switch to the most degree.
(c) Loosen the locking nuts of drag rod;
(d) Adjust the pedal height through rotating the pedal drag
rod;
(e) Rotate the stop light switch reversibly until it contact
with the stop baffle of pedal.
(f) Screw up the two locking nuts.
(g) Check the braking lamp is lightened or not when tread
down the brake pedal.
(h) Check and adjust the pedal free stroke after adjusting the
pedal height
QKAdjust the free stroke of pedal if necessary:
(a) Loosen the locking nuts of the pedal drag rod and rotate
the pedal drag rod to adjust the pedal free stroke.
(b) Start the engine to confirm the free stroke.
(c) Check the pedal height after adjusting the pedal free
stroke. 3. Inspection on Pedal Free Stroke:
(a) Stop the engine working and tread down the brake pedal
several times until the vacuum booster is not in the stage
of vacuum.
(b) Tread down the pedal until the resistance occurs, and
measure the distance shown in the drawing.
Pedal free stroke
(3-6)mm
pedal height

BR-6
Operation test of vacuum booster
Remark: check the operation of vacuum booster with the
vacuum booster tester if workable.
1.Operation inspection
(a) Before starting the engine, tread down the brake pedal
several times, and check the pedal reservation distance to
ensure there is no change occurs.
(b) Tread down the brake pedal and start the engine. If the
treaded pedals continue to move downward, which means
the operation is normal.
1. Inspection on Air-tight
(a) Start the engine for 1-2 min and then turn it off. Then
tread down the brake pedal slowly for several times, if the
pedal move downward continuously in the first, but
return gradually in the second or third time, which means
the vacuum booster has a good air-tight.
(b) Tread down the brake pedal when the engine is working,
then stop the engine, but tread the pedal down. If the
reservation distance doesnít change within the 30 seconds,
which shows the air tight of vacuum booster is good.
Air-bleeding of braking system
Remark: air-bleeding is required if any operation for braking
system is conducted or the pipe line is doubted to have air.
1. Fill the oil cup with the brake liquid
Check the liquid level of oil cup after the air in each wheel
brake pump is exhausted. If necessary, add the brake liquid.
2. Connect the vinyl resin pipe with the vent screws.
Insert the other end of pipe into the container with half brake
liquid.
Remark: the air-bleeding shall begin from the longest pipe line
when the wheel-brake cylinder is exhausting the air.
3. Air exhaust of the pipe line in braking system
(a) Tread down brake pedal slowly several times.
(b) Loosen the vent screws until the brake liquid flows out
while letting the assistant tread down the pedal. Then
screw up the vent screws.
(c) Repeat this approach until there is no air in the liquid.
4. Repeat the approach for the wheel-brake cylinder.
normal
abnormal
the third time
the second time
the first time
Braking System
Inspection and Adjustment

BR-11Brake System
Vacuum Booster
Inspection on Vacuum booster parts
Operation for one-way valve inspection
(Gasoline engine)
(a) Tear down the one-way valve;
(b) Check the air to see whether it flows from the vacuum
booster side toward the engine side.
(c) Check the air, change the one-way valve if the air flows
from the side of engine toward the vacuum booster.
(d) Mount the one-way valve in the right place.
(a) Tear down the one-way valve from the vacuum pipe.
(b) Check the air to see whether it flows from the side of
vacuum room to the hose.
(c) Check the air, and change the one-way valve if the air
flows to the hose to the vacuum room.
air
engine side booster side
air airless
air
hose side vacuum side
airairless
Mount of Vacuum Booster
1. Adjust the length of vacuum booster pushrod:
(a) Mount the sealing washer on the master cylinder;
(b) Put SST on the sealing washer and descend the pin rod
until it contact lightly the piston with its top;
(c) Put top of SST downward ,and mount it on the vacuum
booster.
(d) Check the clearance between the vacuum booster pushrod
and the head of pin on SST.
(e) Adjust the length of vacuum booster pushrod until the
pushrod touches the pinhead.
2. Mount the vacuum booster, sealing washer and Ushaped
clip head.
(a) Mount the vacuum booster and sealing washer.
(b) Mount the U-shaped clip head.
(c) Mount and tighten the assembling nuts of vacuum booster.
3. Connect the U-shaped clip head and the brake pedal:
Encase the U-shaped clamping pin in the hole of U-shaped clip
head and the brake pedal, and then mount the spring pin on the
U-shaped clamping pin.SST
washer
SST
(Diesel engine)