Page 289 of 394

{CAUTION:
Fans or other moving engine parts can injure
you badly. Keep your hands away from moving
parts once the engine is running.
5. Check that the jumper cables do not have loose or
missing insulation. If they do, you could get a
shock. The vehicles could be damaged too.
Before you connect the cables, here are some
basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to
positive (+) or to a remote positive (+) terminal if
the vehicle has one. Negative (−) will go to a heavy,
unpainted metal engine part or to a remote
negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one.
Do not connect positive (+) to negative (−)oryou
will get a short that would damage the battery
and maybe other parts too. And do not connect the
negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal on
the dead battery because this can cause sparks.6. Connect the red positive (+) cable to the positive (+)
terminal of the dead battery. Use a remote
positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.
7. Do not let the other end touch metal. Connect it to
the positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a
remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.
5-41
Page 290 of 394

8. Now connect the black negative (−) cable to the
negative (−) terminal of the good battery. Use a
remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one.
Do not let the other end touch anything until the next
step. The other end of the negative (−) cable does
not go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy,
unpainted metal engine part or to a remote
negative (−) terminal on the vehicle with the
dead battery.
9. Connect the other end of the negative (−) cable to
the negative (−) terminal location on the vehicle
with the dead battery. Your vehicle has a remote
negative (−) terminal for this purpose. It is
marked GND.
10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run
the engine for a while.
11. Try to start the vehicle that had the dead battery.
If it will not start after a few tries, it probably
needs service.
Notice:If the jumper cables are connected or
removed in the wrong order, electrical shorting may
occur and damage the vehicle. The repairs would
not be covered by your warranty. Always connect
and remove the jumper cables in the correct
order, making sure that the cables do not touch
each other or other metal.A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part or Remote
Negative (−) Terminal
B. Good Battery or Remote Positive (+) and Remote
Negative (−) Terminals
C. Dead Battery or Remote Positive (+) Terminal
To disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles, do
the following:
1. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the
vehicle that had the dead battery.
2. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the
vehicle with the good battery.Jumper Cable Removal
5-42
Page 291 of 394

3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the
vehicle with the good battery.
4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the other
vehicle.
5. Return the remote positive (+) terminal cover to its
original position.
All-Wheel Drive
Lubricant checks in this section also apply to these
vehicles. However, there are two additional systems that
need lubrication.
Transfer Case
When to Check Lubricant
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how
often to check the lubricant. SeeScheduled
Maintenance (Gasoline Engine) on page 6-4.
How to Check Lubricant
To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a
level surface.If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole,
you’ll need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant
to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole.
Use care not to overtighten the plug.
What to Use
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what
kind of lubricant to use. SeeRecommended Fluids
and Lubricants (Gasoline Engine) on page 6-13.
5-43
Page 292 of 394
Rear Axle
When to Check Lubricant
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how
often to check the lubricant. SeeScheduled
Maintenance (Gasoline Engine) on page 6-4.
How to Check Lubricant
To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a
level surface.If you have the 1500 Series, the proper level is from
5/8 inch (15 mm) to 1 5/8 inch (40 mm) below the bottom
of the filler plug hole. The proper level for the 2500
and 3500 Series is from 0 to 1/4 (6 mm) below
the bottom of the filler plug hole. Add only enough fluid
to reach the proper level.
What to Use
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what
kind of lubricant to use. SeeRecommended Fluids
and Lubricants (Gasoline Engine) on page 6-13.
Front Axle
When to Check and Change Lubricant
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how
often to check the lubricant and when to change it. See
Scheduled Maintenance (Gasoline Engine) on
page 6-4.
5-44
Page 293 of 394

How to Check Lubricant
To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a
level surface.
If the level is below the
bottom of the filler plug
hole, you may need to add
some lubricant.
When the differential is cold, add enough lubricant
to raise the level to 3/8 inch (10 mm) below the filler
plug hole.
When the differential is at operating temperature
(warm), add enough lubricant to raise the level to the
bottom of the filler plug hole.
What to Use
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what
kind of lubricant to use. SeeRecommended Fluids
and Lubricants (Gasoline Engine) on page 6-13.
Noise Control System
Tampering with Noise Control
System Prohibited
The following information relates to compliance with
federal noise emission standards for vehicles with a
Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) of more than
10,000 lbs (4 536 kg). The Maintenance Schedule
provides information on maintaining the noise control
system to minimize degradation of the noise emission
control system during the life of your vehicle. The noise
control system warranty is given in your warranty booklet.
These standards apply only to vehicles sold in
the United States.
Federal law prohibits the following acts or the
causing thereof:
1. The removal or rendering inoperative by any
person, other than for purposes of maintenance,
repair or replacement, of any device or element of
design incorporated into any new vehicle for
the purpose of noise control, prior to its sale or
delivery to the ultimate purchaser or while it is in
use; or
2. The use of the vehicle after such device or element
of design has been removed or rendered inoperative
by any person.
5-45
Page 294 of 394

Among those acts presumed to constitute tampering are
the acts listed below.
Insulation:
•
Removal of the noise shields or any underhood
insulation.
Engine:
•
Removal or rendering engine speed governor (if
equipped) inoperative so as to allow engine
speed to exceed manufacturer specifications.
Fan and Drive:
•
Removal of fan clutch (if equipped) or rendering
clutch inoperative.
•Removal of the fan shroud (if equipped).
Air Intake:
•
Removal of the air cleaner silencer.
•Modification of the air cleaner.
Exhaust:
•
Removal of the muffler and/or resonator.
•Removal of the exhaust pipes and exhaust
pipe clamps.
Bulb Replacement
For the proper type of replacement bulbs, see
Replacement Bulbs on page 5-50.
For any bulb changing procedure not listed in this
section, contact your dealer.
Halogen Bulbs
{CAUTION:
Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and
can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or
others could be injured. Be sure to read and
follow the instructions on the bulb package.
5-46
Page 295 of 394

Headlamps
To remove the headlamp assembly from the vehicle and
access the bulbs, do the following:
1. Open the hood. SeeHood Release on page 5-11
for more information.
2. Remove the two bolts from the headlamp assembly.
3. Remove the two pins on the top of the headlamp
assembly. To remove the pins, turn the outer pin
clockwise and pull it straight up. To remove
the inner pin, turn it counterclockwise and pull it
straight up.4. Lift the inboard side of the headlamp to release the
inboard tab from the radiator support.
5. Lift the outboard side of the headlamp to release
the outboard tab from the radiator support.
6. Lower the headlamp to allow the vertical adjustor to
clear the tie bar.
7. Turn the headlamp forward and upward to remove
it from the grille.
8. Turn the bulb connector counterclockwise and pull it
out of the housing.
9. Without removing the headlamp assembly itself,
remove the bulb socket from the back of the
headlamp on the driver’s side.
10. Turn the bulb counterclockwise one quarter turn to
remove it from the socket.
11. On the passenger’s side, turn the bulb clockwise
one turn.
5-47
Page 296 of 394
12. Install the new bulb into the socket then reinstall it
into the headlamp assembly.
13. Reverse the steps to reinstall the headlamp
assembly.
Front Turn Signal, Sidemarker and
Parking Lamps
To replace the front turn signal, sidemarker and/or
parking lamp bulb(s), do the following:
1. Use a small tool to unlatch the outboard clip on
the lamp.
2. Pull the lamp forward to completely unlatch the clip.
Move the lamp outboard to loosen the tabs.
3. Remove the lamp from the grille.
4. Squeeze the tab on the side of the bulb socket
while turning it counterclockwise.
5. Remove the bulb socket from the back of the lamp
assembly.
6. Replace the bulb.
7. Turn the bulb socket clockwise to reinstall it in the
lamp assembly.
5-48