2006 CHEVROLET SSR transmission

If Your Vehicle is Stuck in Sand,
Mud, Ice or Snow
In order to free your vehicle when it is stuck, you will
need to spin the wheels, but you do not want to
spin your wheels too fast. The method known as rocking
can help you get out when you are stuck, but you
must use caution.
{CAUTION:
If you let your tires spin at high speed, they
can explode, and you or others could be
injured. And, the transmission or other parts of
the vehicle can overheat. That could cause an
engine compartment re or other damage.
When you are stuck, spin the wheels as little
as possible. Do not spin the wheels above
35 mph (55 km/h) as shown on the
speedometer.Notice:Spinning your wheels can destroy parts of
your vehicle as well as the tires. If you spin the
wheels too fast while shifting your transmission
back and forth, you can destroy your transmission.
For more information about using tire chains on your
vehicle, seeTire Chains on page 5-66.
Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out
First, turn your steering wheel left and right. That will clear
the area around your front wheels. If you have traction
control, you should turn the system off. SeeTraction
Control System (TCS) (Automatic Transmission) on
page 4-9. Then shift back and forth between
REVERSE (R) and a forward gear, or with a manual
transmission, between FIRST (1) or SECOND (2) and
REVERSE (R), spinning the wheels as little as possible.
Release the accelerator pedal while you shift, and press
lightly on the accelerator pedal when the transmission is
in gear. By slowly spinning your wheels in the forward
and reverse directions, you will cause a rocking motion
that may free your vehicle. If that does not get you out
after a few tries, you may need to be towed out. If you do
need to be towed out, seeTowing Your Vehicle on
page 4-35.
4-28

Towing
Towing Your Vehicle
Consult your dealer or a professional towing service if
you need to have your disabled vehicle towed. See
Roadside Assistance Program on page 7-6.
For information about recreational vehicle towing, see
the following entry.
Recreational Vehicle Towing
Recreational vehicle towing means towing your vehicle
behind another vehicle — such as behind a motorhome.
The two most common types of recreational vehicle
towing are known as “dinghy towing” (towing your vehicle
with all four wheels on the ground) and “dolly towing”
(towing your vehicle with two wheels on the ground and
two wheels up on a device known as a “dolly”).
Notice:If you tow your vehicle with two or all
four wheels on the ground, the transmission could
be damaged. The repairs would not be covered
by your warranty. Do not tow your vehicle with
two or all four wheels on the ground.
Your vehicle was not designed to be towed with any of
its wheels on the ground. If your vehicle must be
towed, it should be placed on a platform trailer.
Towing a Trailer
{CAUTION:
If you do not use the correct equipment and
drive properly, you can lose control when you
pull a trailer. For example, if the trailer is too
heavy, the brakes may not work well — or even
at all. You and your passengers could be
seriously injured. Pull a trailer only if you have
followed all the steps in this section. Ask your
dealer for advice and information about towing
a trailer with your vehicle.
Notice:Pulling a trailer improperly can damage
your vehicle and result in costly repairs that would
not be covered by your warranty. Always follow
the instructions in this section and check with your
dealer for more information about towing a trailer
with your vehicle.
To identify the trailering capacity of your vehicle, you
should read the information in “Weight of the Trailer” that
appears later in this section.
4-35

Trailering is different than just driving your vehicle by
itself. Trailering means changes in handling,
acceleration, braking, durability and fuel economy.
Successful, safe trailering takes correct equipment, and
it has to be used properly.
That’s the reason for this part. In it are many time-tested,
important trailering tips and safety rules. Many of
these are important for your safety and that of your
passengers. So please read this section carefully before
you pull a trailer.
If You Decide To Pull A Trailer
If you do, here are some important points:
•There are many different laws, including speed limit
restrictions, having to do with trailering. Make sure
your rig will be legal, not only where you live
but also where you’ll be driving. A good source for
this information can be state or provincial police.
•Don’t tow a trailer at all during the first 500 miles
(800 km) your new vehicle is driven. Your engine,
axle or other parts could be damaged.
•Then, during the first 500 miles (800 km) that you
tow a trailer, don’t drive over 50 mph (80 km/h)
and don’t make starts at full throttle. This helps your
engine and other parts of your vehicle wear in at
the heavier loads.
•If you have an automatic transmission, you can tow
in DRIVE (D). You may want to shift the
transmission to THIRD (3) or, if necessary, a lower
gear if the transmission shifts too often under
heavy loads and/or hilly conditions. If you have a
manual transmission and you are towing a trailer, it
is better not to use the highest gear.
Three important considerations have to do with weight:
•Weight of the trailer
•Weight of the trailer tongue
•Weight on your vehicle’s tires
4-36

Driving On Grades
Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before you start
down a long or steep downgrade. If you don’t shift
down, you might have to use your brakes so much that
they would get hot and no longer work well.
If you have an automatic transmission, you can tow in
DRIVE (D). You may want to shift the transmission
to THIRD (3) or, if necessary, a lower gear if the
transmission shifts too often under heavy loads or hilly
conditions. If you have a manual transmission and
you are towing a trailer, it is better not to use SIXTH (6)
gear. Just drive in FIFTH (5) gear (or, as you need
to, a lower gear).
When towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades,
consider the following: Engine coolant will boil at a lower
temperature than at normal altitudes. If you turn your
engine off immediately after towing at high altitude
on steep uphill grades, your vehicle may show signs
similar to engine overheating. To avoid this, let the
engine run while parked, preferably on level ground, with
the automatic transmission in PARK (P) for a few
minutes before turning the engine off. For manual
transmissions, let the engine run while parked,
preferably on level ground, with the transmission out of
gear and the parking brake applied, for a few minutes
before turning the engine off. If you do get the overheat
warning, seeEngine Overheating on page 5-27.
Parking on Hills
{CAUTION:
You really should not park your vehicle, with a
trailer attached, on a hill. If something goes
wrong, your rig could start to move. People
can be injured, and both your vehicle and the
trailer can be damaged.
But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here’s
how to do it:
1. Apply your regular brakes, but don’t shift into
PARK (P) yet for an automatic transmission, or
into gear for a manual transmission. Turn your
wheels into the curb if facing downhill or into traffic
if facing uphill.
2. Have someone place chocks under the
trailer wheels.
3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the
regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load.
4. Release the regular brakes.
4-45

When You Are Ready to Leave After
Parking on a Hill
1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down
while you:
•Start your engine.
•Shift into a gear.
•Release the parking brake.
2. Let up on the brake pedal.
3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks.
4. Stop and have someone pick up and store
the chocks.
Maintenance When Trailer Towing
Your vehicle will need service more often when you’re
pulling a trailer. SeeScheduled Maintenance on
page 6-4for more information. Things that are especially
important in trailer operation are automatic transmission
fluid (don’t overfill), engine oil, axle lubricant, belt,
cooling system and brake system. Each of these is
covered in this manual. If you’re trailering, it’s a
good idea to review these sections before you start
your trip.
Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts
are tight.
4-46

Service............................................................5-3
Accessories and Modifications..........................5-3
California Proposition 65 Warning.....................5-3
Doing Your Own Service Work.........................5-4
Adding Equipment to the Outside of
Your Vehicle..............................................5-5
Fuel................................................................5-5
Gasoline Octane............................................5-5
Gasoline Specifications....................................5-6
California Fuel...............................................5-6
Additives.......................................................5-6
Fuels in Foreign Countries...............................5-7
Filling the Tank..............................................5-8
Filling a Portable Fuel Container.....................5-10
Checking Things Under the Hood....................5-10
Hood Release..............................................5-11
Engine Compartment Overview.......................5-12
Engine Oil...................................................5-13
Engine Oil Life System..................................5-16
Engine Cover...............................................5-18
Engine Air Cleaner/Filter................................5-18
Automatic Transmission Fluid.........................5-20
Manual Transmission Fluid.............................5-22
Hydraulic Clutch...........................................5-23
Engine Coolant.............................................5-24
Coolant Surge Tank Pressure Cap..................5-27Engine Overheating.......................................5-27
Cooling System............................................5-29
Power Steering Fluid.....................................5-31
Windshield Washer Fluid................................5-31
Brakes........................................................5-32
Battery........................................................5-36
Jump Starting...............................................5-37
Rear Axle.......................................................5-42
Headlamp Aiming...........................................5-43
Bulb Replacement..........................................5-43
Halogen Bulbs..............................................5-44
Headlamps..................................................5-44
Front Turn Signal, Sidemarker and
Parking Lamps..........................................5-45
Taillamps, Turn Signal, and Stoplamps............5-47
Back-Up Lamps............................................5-48
Replacement Bulbs.......................................5-48
Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement..............5-49
Tires..............................................................5-51
Tire Sidewall Labeling...................................5-52
Tire Terminology and Definitions.....................5-54
Inflation - Tire Pressure.................................5-57
Tire Inspection and Rotation...........................5-59
When It Is Time for New Tires.......................5-59
Buying New Tires.........................................5-60
Section 5 Service and Appearance Care
5-1

A. Remote Positive (+) Terminal (inside small red box
marked “Battery +”). SeeJump Starting on
page 5-37.
B. Coolant Surge Tank. SeeEngine Coolant on
page 5-24.
C. Engine Oil Dipstick. See “Checking Engine Oil”
underEngine Oil on page 5-13.
D. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine Oil”
underEngine Oil on page 5-13.
E. Automatic Transmission Fluid Dipstick (If Equipped)
(Not Shown). SeeAutomatic Transmission Fluid
on page 5-20.
F. Engine Cover. SeeEngine Cover on page 5-18.
G. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. SeeEngine Air
Cleaner/Filter on page 5-18.
H. Remote Negative (−) Terminal. SeeJump Starting
on page 5-37.
I. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir. SeePower Steering
Fluid on page 5-31.
J. Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir. See “Brake Fluid”
underBrakes on page 5-32.
K. Engine Compartment Fuse Block. SeeEngine
Compartment Fuse Block on page 5-90.
L. Clutch Master Cylinder Reservoir (If Equipped). See
Hydraulic Clutch on page 5-23.
M. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See “Adding
Washer Fluid” underWindshield Washer Fluid
on page 5-31.Engine Oil
Checking Engine Oil
It is a good idea to check your engine oil every time you
get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil
must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground.
The engine oil dipstick handle is a yellow loop. See
Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12for
the location of the engine oil dipstick.
1. Turn off the engine and give the oil several minutes
to drain back into the oil pan. If you do not do this,
the oil dipstick might not show the actual level.
2. Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel
or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it
again, keeping the tip down, and check the level.
5-13

Automatic Transmission Fluid
When to Check and Change Automatic
Transmission Fluid
A good time to check your automatic transmission fluid
level is when the engine oil is changed.
Change the fluid and filter at the intervals listed in
Additional Required Services on page 6-6, and be sure
to use the transmission fluid listed inRecommended
Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-12.
How to Check Automatic
Transmission Fluid
Because this operation can be difficult, you may choose
to have this done at the dealership service department.
If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions
here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick.
Notice:Too much or too little uid can damage
your transmission. Too much can mean that some
of the uid could come out and fall on hot engine
part or exhaust system parts, starting a re.
Too little uid could cause the transmission to
overheat. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you
check your transmission uid.Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the
transmission fluid level if you have been driving:
•When outside temperatures are above 90°F (32°C).
•At high speed for quite a while.
•In heavy traffic — especially in hot weather.
•While pulling a trailer.
To get the right reading, the fluid should be at
normal operating temperature, which is 180°F to
200°F (82°C to 93°C).
Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 15 miles
(24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50°F
(10°C). If it is colder than 50°F (10°C), drive the vehicle
in THIRD (3) until the engine temperature gage
moves and then remains steady for 10 minutes.
A cold fluid check can be made after the vehicle has
been sitting for eight hours or more with the engine off,
but this is used only as a reference. Let the engine
run at idle for five minutes if outside temperatures are
50°F (10°C) or more. If it is colder than 50°F (10°C), you
may have to idle the engine longer. Should the fluid
level be low during this cold check, you must check the
fluid hot before adding fluid. Checking the fluid hot
will give you a more accurate reading of the fluid level.
5-20