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•As you go over the top of a hill, be alert. There
could be something in your lane, like a stalled car or
an accident.
•You may see highway signs on mountains that
warn of special problems. Examples are long
grades, passing or no-passing zones, a falling rocks
area, or winding roads. Be alert to these and take
appropriate action.
Winter Driving
Here are some tips for winter driving:
•Have your vehicle in good shape for winter.
•You may want to put winter emergency supplies in
your trunk.
Also seeTires on page 5-50.
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Include an ice scraper, a small brush or broom, a
supply of windshield washer fluid, a rag, some winter
outer clothing, a small shovel, a flashlight, a red
cloth, and a couple of reflective warning triangles. And,
if you will be driving under severe conditions, include
a small bag of sand, a piece of old carpet, or a couple of
burlap bags to help provide traction. Be sure you
properly secure these items in your vehicle.
Driving on Snow or Ice
Most of the time, those places where the tires meet the
road probably have good traction.
However, if there is snow or ice between the tires and the
road, you can have a very slippery situation. You will
have a lot less traction, or grip, and will need to be very
careful.
What is the worst time for this? Wet ice. Very cold snow
or ice can be slick and hard to drive on.
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But wet ice can be even more trouble because it may
offer the least traction of all. You can get wet ice when it is
about freezing, 32°F (0°C), and freezing rain begins to
fall. Try to avoid driving on wet ice until salt and sand
crews can get there.
Whatever the condition — smooth ice, packed, blowing,
or loose snow — drive with caution.
Accelerate gently. Try not to break the fragile traction. If
you accelerate too fast, the drive wheels will spin and
polish the surface under the tires even more.
Unless you have the Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS), you
will want to brake very gently, too. If you do have ABS,
seeAnti-Lock Brake System (ABS) on page 4-7. This
system improves your vehicle’s stability when you make a
hard stop on a slippery road. Whether you have ABS or
not, you will want to begin stopping sooner than you
would on dry pavement. Without ABS, if you feel your
vehicle begin to slide, let up on the brakes a little. Push
the brake pedal down steadily to get the most traction
you can.Remember, unless you have ABS, if you brake so hard
that your wheels stop rolling, you will just slide. Brake so
your wheels always keep rolling and you can still steer.
•Whatever your braking system, allow greater
following distance on any slippery road.
•Watch for slippery spots. The road might be fine until
you hit a spot that is covered with ice. On an
otherwise clear road, ice patches may appear in
shaded areas where the sun cannot reach, such as
around clumps of trees, behind buildings, or under
bridges. Sometimes the surface of a curve or an
overpass may remain icy when the surrounding
roads are clear. If you see a patch of ice ahead of
you, brake before you are on it. Try not to brake while
you are actually on the ice, and avoid sudden
steering maneuvers.
If You Are Caught in a Blizzard
If you are stopped by heavy snow, you could be in a
serious situation. You should probably stay with your
vehicle unless you know for sure that you are near help
and you can hike through the snow. Here are some things
to do to summon help and keep yourself and your
passengers safe:
•Turn on your hazard flashers.
•Tie a red cloth to your vehicle to alert police that you
have been stopped by the snow.
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•Put on extra clothing or wrap a blanket around you. If
you do not have blankets or extra clothing, make
body insulators from newspapers, burlap bags, rags,
floor mats — anything you can wrap around yourself
or tuck under your clothing to keep warm.
You can run the engine to keep warm, but be careful.
{CAUTION:
Snow can trap exhaust gases under your
vehicle. This can cause deadly CO (carbon
monoxide) gas to get inside. CO could
overcome you and kill you. You cannot see it
or smell it, so you might not know it is in your
vehicle. Clear away snow from around the
base of your vehicle, especially any that is
blocking your exhaust pipe. And check around
again from time to time to be sure snow does
not collect there.
Open a window just a little on the side of the
vehicle that is away from the wind. This will
help keep CO out.
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Run your engine only as long as you must. This saves
fuel. When you run the engine, make it go a little
faster than just idle. That is, push the accelerator
slightly. This uses less fuel for the heat that you get and
it keeps the battery charged. You will need a
well-charged battery to restart the vehicle, and possibly
for signaling later on with your headlamps. Let the
heater run for a while.
Then, shut the engine off and close the window almost
all the way to preserve the heat. Start the engine
again and repeat this only when you feel really
uncomfortable from the cold. But do it as little as
possible. Preserve the fuel as long as you can. To help
keep warm, you can get out of the vehicle and do
some fairly vigorous exercises every half hour or so until
help comes.
If Your Vehicle is Stuck in Sand,
Mud, Ice or Snow
In order to free your vehicle when it is stuck, you will
need to spin the wheels, but you do not want to
spin your wheels too fast. The method known as rocking
can help you get out when you are stuck, but you
must use caution.
{CAUTION:
If you let your tires spin at high speed, they
can explode, and you or others could be
injured. And, the transaxle or other parts of the
vehicle can overheat. That could cause an
engine compartment re or other damage.
When you are stuck, spin the wheels as little
as possible. Do not spin the wheels above
35 mph (55 km/h) as shown on the
speedometer.
Notice:Spinning your wheels can destroy parts of
your vehicle as well as the tires. If you spin the
wheels too fast while shifting your transaxle back
and forth, you can destroy your transaxle. See
Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out on page 4-28.
For information about using tire chains on your vehicle,
seeTire Chains on page 5-63.
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Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out
First, turn your steering wheel left and right. That
will clear the area around your front wheels. Then shift
back and forth between REVERSE (R) and a forward
gear, or with a manual transaxle, between FIRST (1) or
SECOND (2) and REVERSE (R), spinning the wheels
as little as possible. Release the accelerator pedal while
you shift, and press lightly on the accelerator pedal
when the transaxle is in gear. By slowly spinning your
wheels in the forward and reverse directions, you
will cause a rocking motion that may free your vehicle. If
that does not get you out after a few tries, you may
need to be towed out. If you do need to be towed out,
seeTowing Your Vehicle on page 4-33.
Loading Your Vehicle
It is very important to know how much weight your
vehicle can carry. This weight is called the Maximum
Load weight and includes the weight of all occupants,
cargo, and all nonfactory-installed options. Two labels on
your vehicle show how much weight it may properly
carry; the Tire and Loading Information label and
the Certification label.
{CAUTION:
Do not load your vehicle any heavier than the
Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR), or either
the maximum front or rear Gross Axle Weight
Rating (GAWR). If you do, parts on your
vehicle can break, and it can change the way
your vehicle handles. These could cause you
to lose control and crash. Also, overloading
can shorten the life of your vehicle.
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Tire and Loading Information Label
A vehicle specific tire and loading information label
shows the seating capacity and the maximum load your
vehicle can properly carry. This label also contains
your vehicle’s original equipment tire size and the
recommended tire inflation pressure. For more
information on tires and inflation seeTires on page 5-50
andInflation - Tire Pressure on page 5-56. The tire
and loading information label is attached inside the glove
box of the five door hatchback model. The tire and
loading information label for the wagon is attached to
the vehicle’s center pillar, below the driver’s door latch.
There is also important loading information on the
Certification label. It tells you the Gross Vehicle Weight
Rating (GVWR) and the Gross Axle Weight Rating
(GAWR) for the front and rear axle; see “Certification
Label” later in this section. Label Example–5DoorHatchback
Label Example – Wagon
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Steps for Determining Correct Load Limit
1. Locate the “Maximum Load” amount printed on
the Tire and Loading Information label.
2. Determine the combined weight of the driver and
passengers that will be riding in your vehicle.
3. Subtract the combined weight of the driver and
passengers from the maximum load amount,
shown in pounds and kilograms.
4. The resulting figure equals the available amount of
cargo and luggage load capacity. For example, if the
“maximum load” amount equals 1400 lbs and there
will be five 150 lb passengers in your vehicle, the
amount of available cargo and luggage load capacity
is 650 lbs (1400−750 (5 x 150) = 650 lbs).
5. Determine the combined weight of luggage and
cargo being loaded on the vehicle. That weight
may not safely exceed the available cargo
and luggage load capacity calculated in Step 4.
Item Description Total
AVehicle Maximum Load
for Example 1=1,000 lbs (453 kg)
BSubtract Occupant
Weight 150 lbs
(68 kg)×2=300 lbs (136 kg)
CAvailable Occupant and
Cargo Weight=700 lbs (317 kg) Example 1
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