2005 CHRYSLER VOYAGER engine

(3) Slowly tighten rocker shaft bolts evenly until
shaft is seated. Tighten bolts to 23 N´m (200 in. lbs.)
(Fig. 43).
(4) Install the cylinder head cover(s). (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - INSTALLATION)VALVE STEM SEALS
DESCRIPTION
The valve stem seals are made of Viton rubber. The
seals are positioned over the valve stem and seated
on the valve guide (Fig. 44).
Fig. 42 ROCKER ARMS AND SHAFT
1 - BOLT (ROCKER SHAFT OIL FEED - LONGER LENGTH) 5 - ROCKER ARM - EXHAUST
2 - SHAFT RETAINER/SPACER - 21.5 mm (0.84 in.) 6 - WASHER
3 -SHAFT RETAINER/SPACER - 37.5 mm (1.47 in.) 7 - ROCKER ARM - INTAKE (LARGER OFFSET)
4 - SHAFT RETAINER/SPACER - 40.9 mm (1.61 in.) 8 - ROCKER ARMS LUBRICATION FEED HOLE (POSITION
UPWARD & TOWARD VALVE SPRING)
Fig. 43 ROCKER ARMS AND SHAFT
1 - ROCKER ARMS AND SHAFT ASSEMBLY
2 - ROCKER SHAFT BOLTS
Fig. 44 Valve Stem Seal
9 - 114 ENGINE 3.3/3.8LRS
ROCKER ARMS (Continued)

REMOVAL
(1) Remove the valve springs. (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/VALVE SPRINGS -
REMOVAL)
(2) Remove the valve stem seal (Fig. 44).
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the valve stem seal squarely over the
valve guide, using the valve stem as a guide (Fig.
44). Do not force the seal against top of the valve
guide.
(2) Install the valve spring. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
CYLINDER HEAD/VALVE SPRINGS - INSTALLA-
TION)
ENGINE BLOCK
DESCRIPTION
The cylinder block is made of cast iron and is a
deep skirt design.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - CYLINDER BORE
HONING
(1) Used carefully, the cylinder bore resizing hone,
recommended tool C-823 or equivalent, equipped
with 220 grit stones, is the best tool for this honing
procedure. In addition to deglazing, it will reduce
taper and out-of-round as well as removing light
scuffing, scoring or scratches. Usually a few strokes
will clean up a bore and maintain the required lim-
its.
(2) Deglazing of the cylinder walls may be done
using a cylinder surfacing hone, recommended tool
C-3501 or equivalent, equipped with 280 grit stones,
if the cylinder bore is straight and round. 20±60
strokes depending on the bore condition, will be suf-
ficient to provide a satisfactory surface. Use a light
honing oil.Do not use engine or transmission oil,
mineral spirits or kerosene.Inspect cylinder walls
after each 20 strokes.
(3) Honing should be done by moving the hone up
and down fast enough to get a cross-hatch pattern.
When hone marksintersectat 40-60 degrees, the
cross hatch angle is most satisfactory for proper seat-
ing of rings (Fig. 45).
(4) A controlled hone motor speed between
200±300 RPM is necessary to obtain the proper cross-
hatch angle. The number of up and down strokes per
minute can be regulated to get the desired 40±60
degree angle. Faster up and down strokes increase
the cross-hatch angle.
(5) After honing, it is necessary that the block be
cleaned again to remove all traces of abrasive.CAUTION: Ensure all abrasives are removed from
engine parts after honing. It is recommended that a
solution of soap and hot water be used with a
brush and the parts then thoroughly dried. The bore
can be considered clean when it can be wiped
clean with a white cloth and cloth remains clean.
Oil the bores after cleaning to prevent rusting.
CLEANING
Clean cylinder block thoroughly using a suitable
cleaning solvent.
INSPECTION
ENGINE BLOCK
(1) Clean cylinder block thoroughly and check all
core hole plugs for evidence of leaking.
(2) If new core plugs are to be installed, (Refer to 9
- ENGINE - STANDARD PROCEDURE - ENGINE
CORE AND OIL GALLERY PLUGS).
(3) Examine block and cylinder bores for cracks or
fractures.
(4) Check block deck surfaces for flatness. Deck
surface must be within service limit of 0.1 mm (0.004
in.).
CYLINDER BORE
NOTE: The cylinder bores should be measured at
normal room temperature, 21ÉC (70ÉF).
The cylinder walls should be checked for out-of-
round and taper with Tool C119 or equivalent (Fig.
Fig. 45 Cylinder Bore Cross-Hatch Pattern
1 - CROSS-HATCH PATTERN
2 - 40ɱ60É
RSENGINE 3.3/3.8L9 - 115
VALVE STEM SEALS (Continued)

46) (Refer to 9 - ENGINE - SPECIFICATIONS). If
the cylinder walls are badly scuffed or scored, the
cylinder block should be replaced, and new pistons
and rings fitted.
Measure the cylinder bore at three levels in direc-
tions A and B (Fig. 46). Top measurement should be
10 mm (3/8 in.) down and bottom measurement
should be 10 mm (3/8 in.) up from bottom of bore.
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE - SPECIFICATIONS).
HYDRAULIC LIFTERS (CAM IN
BLOCK)
DESCRIPTION
The hydraulic lifters are a roller type design and
are positioned in the cylinder block. The lifters are
aligned and retained by a yoke and a retainer (Fig.
48).
Lifter alignment is maintained by machined flats
on lifter body. Lifters are fitted in pairs into six
aligning yokes. The aligning yokes are secured by a
yoke retainer (Fig. 48).
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HYDRAULIC
LIFTERS
HYDRAULIC LIFTERS DIAGNOSIS - PRELIMINARY
STEP
Before disassembling any part of the engine to cor-
rect lifter noise, check the engine oil pressure. (Referto 9 - ENGINE/LUBRICATION - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING)
Check engine oil level. The oil level in the pan
should never be above the MAX mark on dipstick, or
below the MIN mark. Either of these two conditions
could cause noisy lifters.
OIL LEVEL TOO HIGH
If oil level is above the MAX mark on dipstick, it is
possible for the connecting rods to dip into the oil
while engine is running and create foaming. Foam in
oil pan would be fed to the hydraulic lifters by the oil
pump causing them to become soft and allow valves
to seat noisily.
OIL LEVEL TOO LOW
Low oil level may allow pump to take in air which
when fed to the lifters it causes them to become soft
and allows valves to seat noisily. Any leaks on intake
side of pump, through which air can be drawn, will
create the same lifter noise. Check the lubrication
system from the intake strainer to the oil pump
cover, including the relief valve retainer cap. When
lifter noise is due to aeration, it may be intermittent
or constant, and usually more than one lifter will be
noisy. When oil level and leaks have been corrected,
the engine should be operated at fast idle to allow all
of the air inside of the lifters to be bled out.
VALVE TRAIN NOISE
To determine source of valve train noise, operate
engine at idle with cylinder head covers removed and
listen for source of the noise.
NOTE: Worn valve guides or cocked springs are
sometimes mistaken for noisy lifters. If such is the
case, noise may be dampened by applying side
thrust on the valve spring. If noise is not apprecia-
bly reduced, it can be assumed the noise is in the
tappet. Inspect the rocker arm push rod sockets
and push rod ends for wear.
Valve lifter noise ranges from light noise to a
heavy click. A light noise is usually caused by exces-
sive leak-down around the unit plunger which will
necessitate replacing the lifter, or by the plunger par-
tially sticking in the lifter body cylinder. A heavy
click is caused either by a lifter check valve not seat-
ing, or by foreign particles becoming wedged between
the plunger and the lifter body causing the plunger
to stick in the down position. This heavy click will be
accompanied by excessive clearance between the
valve stem and rocker arm as valve closes. In either
case, lifter assembly should be removed for inspec-
tion.
Fig. 46 Checking Cylinder Bore Size
9 - 116 ENGINE 3.3/3.8LRS
ENGINE BLOCK (Continued)

REMOVAL
(1) Remove the cylinder head(s). (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD - REMOVAL)
(2) Remove the yoke retainer and aligning yokes
(Fig. 48).
(3) Remove the hydraulic lifters. If necessary use
Special Tool C-4129, or equivalent to remove lifters
from bores. If lifters are to be reused, identify each
lifter to ensure installation in original location.
INSTALLATION
(1) Lubricate the lifters with engine oil.
NOTE: Position the lifter in bore with the lubrication
hole facing upward (Fig. 47).
(2) Install the hydraulic lifters with the lubrication
hole facing upward towards middle of block (Fig. 47).
Install lifters in original positions, if reused.
(3) Install lifter aligning yokes (Fig. 48).
(4) Install yoke retainer and torque screws to 12
N´m (105 in. lbs.) (Fig. 48).
(5) Install the cylinder heads. (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD - INSTALLATION)
(6) Start and operate engine. Warm up to normal
operating temperature.CAUTION: To prevent damage to valve mechanism,
engine must not be run above fast idle until all
hydraulic lifters have filled with oil and have
become quiet.
Fig. 47 LIFTER LUBRICATION HOLE
Fig. 48 Lifter Aligning Yoke and Retainer
1 - YOKE RETAINER
2 - BOLT - YOKE RETAINER
3 - ALIGNING YOKE
4 - HYDRAULIC LIFTER
RSENGINE 3.3/3.8L9 - 117
HYDRAULIC LIFTERS (CAM IN BLOCK) (Continued)

CAMSHAFT & BEARINGS (IN
BLOCK)
DESCRIPTION
The nodular iron camshaft is mounted in the
engine block and supported with four steel backed
aluminum bearings (Fig. 49). A thrust plate, located
in front of the first bearing, is bolted to the block and
controls the camshaft end play (Fig. 49). To distin-
guish camshafts between the 3.3L and 3.8L engines,
a cast-in ring is located between the rear bearing
journal and rear lobe (Fig. 50). The 3.3L engine
application is as-cast only. The 3.8L engine applica-
tion the cast ring is machined off.
OPERATION
The camshaft is driven by the crankshaft through
a timing chain and sprockets. The camshaft has pre-
cisely machined (egg-shaped) lobes to provide accu-
rate valve timing and duration.
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the engine assembly from vehicle
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE - REMOVAL).
(2) Remove the cylinder heads (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD - REMOVAL).
(3) Remove the timing chain and camshaft
sprocket (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIM-
ING BELT/CHAIN AND SPROCKETS - REMOVAL).
(4) Remove the hydraulic lifters (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/HYDRAULIC LIFTERS
(CAM IN BLOCK) - REMOVAL). Identify each tappet
for reinstallation in original location.
(5) Remove camshaft thrust plate (Fig. 49).
(6) Install a long bolt into front of camshaft to
facilitate removal of the camshaft.
(7) Remove the camshaft (Fig. 49), being careful
not to damage cam bearings with the cam lobes.
NOTE: The camshaft bearings are serviced with the
engine block.
INSPECTION
(1) Check the cam lobes and bearing surfaces for
abnormal wear and damage (Fig. 51). Replace cam-
shaft as required.
NOTE: If camshaft is replaced due to lobe wear or
damage, always replace the lifters.
(2) Measure the lobe actual wear (unworn area -
wear zone = actual wear) (Fig. 51) and replace cam-
shaft if out of limit. Standard value is 0.0254 mm
(0.001 in.), wearlimitis 0.254 mm (0.010 in.).
INSTALLATION
(1) Lubricate camshaft lobes and camshaft bearing
journals with engine oil.
(2) Install a long bolt into the camshaft to assist in
the installation of the camshaft.
(3) Carefully install the camshaft in engine block.
(4) Install camshaft thrust plate and bolts (Fig.
49). Tighten to 12 N´m (105 in. lbs.) torque.
(5) Measure camshaft end play. (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE - SPECIFICATIONS) If not within specifi-
cations, replace thrust plate.
(6) Install the timing chain and sprockets. (Refer
to 9 - ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT/
CHAIN AND SPROCKETS - INSTALLATION)
Fig. 49 CAMSHAFT AND BEARINGS
1 - CAMSHAFT
2 - THRUST PLATE
3 - BOLT
4 - CAMSHAFT BEARINGS (SERVICED WITH BLOCK)
Fig. 50 CAMSHAFT IDENTIFICATION
1 - CAMSHAFT - 3.3L ENGINE
2 - CAST-IN RING
3 - CAMSHAFT - 3.8L ENGINE
4 - MACHINED CAST-IN RING
9 - 118 ENGINE 3.3/3.8LRS

NOTE: When camshaft is replaced, all of the
hydraulic lifters must be replaced also.
(7) Install the hydraulic lifters (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/HYDRAULIC LIFTERS
(CAM IN BLOCK) - INSTALLATION). Each lifter
reused must be installed in the same position from
which it was removed.
(8) Install the timing chain cover. (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT / CHAIN
COVER(S) - INSTALLATION)
(9) Install the cylinder heads. (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD - INSTALLATION)
(10) Install the cylinder head covers. (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - INSTALLATION)
(11) Install the lower and upper intake manifolds.
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/MANIFOLDS/INTAKE MANI-
FOLD - INSTALLATION)
(12) Install the engine assembly. (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE - INSTALLATION)
PISTON & CONNECTING ROD
DESCRIPTION
The pistons are made of cast aluminum alloy and
are a strutless, short skirt design. The piston rings
consist of two compression rings and a three piece oil
ring. Piston pins connect the piston to the forged
steel connecting rods. The piston pins are a press fit
into the connecting rod.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - FITTING
CONNECTING RODS
The bearing caps are not interchangeable or
reversible, and should be marked at removal to
ensure correct reassembly. The bearing shells must
be installed with the tangs inserted into the
machined grooves in the rods and caps. Install cap
with the tangs on the same side as the rod. For con-
necting rod bearing fitting (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/EN-
GINE BLOCK/CONNECTING ROD BEARINGS -
STANDARD PROCEDURE). Fit all connecting rods
on one bank until complete.
NOTE: The connecting rod cap bolts should be
examined before reuse. Bolt stretch can be checked
by holding a scale or straight edge against the
threads. If all the threads do not contact the scale
the bolt must be replaced (Fig. 52).
Fig. 51 Checking Camshaft for Wear (Typical)
1 - UNWORN AREA
2 - ACTUAL WEAR
3 - BEARING JOURNAL
4 - LOBE
5 - WEAR ZONE
Fig. 52 Check for Stretched (Necked) Bolts
1 - STRETCHED BOLT
2 - THREADS ARE NOT STRAIGHT ON LINE
3 - THREADS ARE STRAIGHT ON LINE
4 - UNSTRETCHED BOLT
RSENGINE 3.3/3.8L9 - 119
CAMSHAFT & BEARINGS (IN BLOCK) (Continued)

(1) Before installing the nuts the threads should
be oiled with engine oil.
(2) Install nuts finger tight on each bolt then alter-
nately torque each nut to assemble the cap properly.
(3) Tighten the nuts to 54 N´m PLUS 1/4 turn (40
ft. lbs. PLUS 1/4 turn).
(4) Using a feeler gauge, check connecting rod side
clearance (Fig. 53). Refer to Engine Specifications
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE - SPECIFICATIONS).
STANDARD PROCEDURE - FITTING PISTONS
The piston and cylinder wall must be clean and
dry. Piston diameter should be measured 90 degrees
to piston pin at size location shown in (Fig. 54). Cyl-
inder bores should be measured halfway down the
cylinder bore and transverse to the engine crankshaft
center line shown in (Fig. 55). Refer to Engine Spec-
ifications (Refer to 9 - ENGINE - SPECIFICA-
TIONS).Pistons and cylinder bores should be
measured at normal room temperature, 21ÉC
(70ÉF).
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect negative cable from battery.
(2) Remove the cylinder heads. (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD - REMOVAL)
(3) Remove the oil pan. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LU-
BRICATION/OIL PAN - REMOVAL)
(4) Remove the top ridge of cylinder bores with a
reliable ridge reamer, if necessary, before removing
pistons from cylinder block.Be sure to keep tops
of pistons covered during this operation. Pis-
tons and connecting rods must be removed
from top of cylinder block. When removing pis-
ton and connecting rod assemblies from the
engine, rotate crankshaft so that each connect-
ing rod is centered in cylinder bore.
(5) Inspect connecting rods and connecting rod
caps for cylinder identification. Identify them, if nec-
essary (Fig. 56).Fig. 53 Checking Connecting Rod Side Clearance
Fig. 54 Piston Measurement Locations - Typical
1 - 39.8 mm (1.56 in. ) 3.3L ENGINE
2 - 33.0 mm (1.29 in.) 3.8L ENGINE
Fig. 55 Checking Cylinder Bore Size
Fig. 56 Identify Connecting Rod to Cylinder
1 - CYLINDER NUMBER
9 - 120 ENGINE 3.3/3.8LRS
PISTON & CONNECTING ROD (Continued)

(6) Remove connecting rod cap. Install connecting
rod bolt protectors on connecting rod bolts (Fig. 57).
(7) Remove each piston and connecting rod assem-
bly out of the cylinder bore.
NOTE: Be careful not to nick crankshaft journals.
(8) After removal, install bearing cap on the mat-
ing rod.
INSTALLATION
(1) Before installing pistons and connecting rod
assemblies into the bore, ensure that compression
ring gaps are staggered so that neither is in line with
oil ring rail gap (Fig. 58).(2) Before installing the ring compressor, ensure
the oil ring expander ends are butted and the rail
gaps located as shown in (Fig. 58).
(3) Lubricate the piston and rings with clean
engine oil. Position a ring compressor over the piston
and rings, and tighten the compressor (Fig. 59).Be
sure position of rings does not change during
this operation.
(4) Position upper bearing onto connecting rod.
Lubricate bearing with oil.
(5) Install connecting rod bolt protectors (rubber
hose or equivalent) on the connecting rod bolts (Fig.
59).
(6) The pistons are marked with a ªFº located near
the piston pin. Install piston with this mark posi-
tioned to front of engine on both cylinder banks. The
connecting rod oil squirt hole faces the major thrust
(right) side of the engine block (Fig. 60).
(7) Rotate crankshaft until the connecting rod
journal is located in the center of the cylinder bore.
Insert connecting rod and piston into cylinder bore.
Carefully guide connecting rod over the crankshaft
journal (Fig. 59).
(8) Tap the piston down in cylinder bore, using a
hammer handle. At the same time, guide connecting
rod into position on connecting rod journal.
(9) Install lower bearing shell and connecting rod
cap (Fig. 59). Install nuts on cleaned and oiled rod
bolts and tighten to 54 N´m (40 ft. lbs.) PLUS
1¤4
turn.
(10) Repeat procedure for each piston and connect-
ing rod installation.
(11) Install the cylinder heads. (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD - INSTALLATION)
(12) Install the oil pan. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LU-
BRICATION/OIL PAN - INSTALLATION)
(13) Fill engine crankcase with proper oil to cor-
rect level.
(14) Connect negative cable to battery.
Fig. 57 Connecting Rod Protectors
1 - COVER ROD BOLTS WITH A SUITABLE COVERING WHEN
REMOVING OR INSTALLING PISTON ASSEMBLY
Fig. 58 Piston Ring End Gap Position
1 - SIDE RAIL UPPER
2 - NO. 1 RING GAP
3 - PISTON PIN
4 - SIDE RAIL LOWER
5 - NO. 2 RING GAP AND SPACER EXPANDER GAP
RSENGINE 3.3/3.8L9 - 121
PISTON & CONNECTING ROD (Continued)