2005 CHRYSLER VOYAGER stop start

CAUTION: Do not crank starter motor on disabled
vehicle for more than 15 seconds, starter may over-
heat and could fail.
(7) If engine does not start within 15 seconds, stop
cranking engine and allow starter to cool (15 min-
utes), before cranking again.
DISCONNECT CABLE CLAMPS AS FOLLOWS:
²Disconnect BLACK cable clamp from engine
ground on disabled vehicle.
²When using a Booster vehicle, disconnect
BLACK cable clamp from battery negative terminal.
Disconnect RED cable clamp from battery positive
terminal.
²Disconnect RED cable clamp from battery posi-
tive terminal on disabled vehicle.
TOWING
STANDARD PROCEDURE - TOWING
WARNINGS AND CAUTIONS
WARNING: DO NOT ALLOW TOWING ATTACHMENT
DEVICES TO CONTACT THE FUEL TANK OR LINES,
FUEL LEAK CAN RESULT.
DO NOT LIFT OR TOW VEHICLE BY FRONT OR
REAR BUMPER.
DO NOT GO UNDER A LIFTED VEHICLE IF NOT
SUPPORTED PROPERLY ON SAFETY STANDS.
DO NOT ALLOW PASSENGERS TO RIDE IN A
TOWED VEHICLE.USE A SAFETY CHAIN THAT IS INDEPENDENT
FROM THE TOWING ATTACHMENT DEVICE.
CAUTION: Do not damage brake lines, exhaust sys-
tem, shock absorbers, sway bars, or any other
under vehicle components when attaching towing
device to vehicle.
Do not secure vehicle to towing device by the use
of front or rear suspension or steering components.
Remove or secure loose or protruding objects from
a damaged vehicle before towing.
Refer to state and local rules and regulations before
towing a vehicle.
Do not allow weight of towed vehicle to bear on
lower fascia, air dams, or spoilers.
RECOMMENDED TOWING EQUIPMENT
To avoid damage to bumper fascia and air dams
use:
²FWD vehicles, use of a flat bed towing device or
a wheel lift is recommended (Fig. 7).
²AWD vehicles, a flat bed towing device or a
wheel lift and towing dolly is recommended (Fig. 7).
When using a wheel lift towing device, be sure the
disabled vehicle has at least 100 mm (4 in.) ground
clearance. If minimum ground clearance cannot be
reached, use a towing dolly. If a flat bed device is
used, the approach angle should not exceed 15
degrees.
GROUND CLEARANCE
CAUTION: If vehicle is towed with wheels removed,
install lug nuts to retain brake drums or rotors.
A towed vehicle should be raised until the lifted
wheels are a minimum 100 mm (4 in.) from the
ground. Be sure there is at least 100 mm (4 in.)
clearance between the tail pipe and the ground. If
necessary, remove the wheels from the front end of
the vehicle and lower the front end closer to the
Fig. 6 JUMPER CABLE CLAMP CONNECTIONS
1 - BATTERY NEGATIVE TERMINAL
2 - POSITIVE JUMPER CABLE
3 - TEST INDICATOR (IF EQUIPPED)
4 - BATTERY POSITIVE TERMINAL
5 - BATTERY
6 - NEGATIVE JUMPER CABLE
Fig. 7 RECOMMENDED TOWING
1 - WHEEL LIFT
2 - FLAT BED
0 - 26 LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCERS
JUMP STARTING (Continued)

REMOVAL
REMOVAL - AWD, HEAVY DUTY, CARGO
(1) Using slip-joint pliers grasp the base of the
jounce bumper. Turn the base counterclockwise (Fig.
20).
(2) Remove the jounce bumper from the frame rail.
REMOVAL - FRONT-WHEEL-DRIVE
(1) Remove the bolt attaching the jounce bumper
to frame rail (Fig. 21).
(2) Remove the jounce bumper from the frame rail.
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - AWD, HEAVY DUTY, CARGO
(1) Install jounce bumper through bumper support
plate and thread into welded nut in frame rail.(2) Tighten the jounce bumper to 33 N´m (290 in.
lbs.) torque.
INSTALLATION - FRONT-WHEEL-DRIVE
(1) Hook the forward end of the jounce bumper
bracket in the mounting hole of the frame rail, then
install the mounting bolt in the opposite end, secur-
ing the bumper to the frame rail. Tighten the jounce
bumper mounting bolt to 33 N´m (290 in. lbs.) torque.
SHOCK ABSORBER
DESCRIPTION
There is one shock absorber on each side of the
rear suspension. The top of each shock absorber is
bolted to the frame rail. The bottom of each shock
absorber is bolted to the rear axle.
This vehicle is available with either standard type
or load-leveling shock absorbers. On the exterior,
load-leveling shock absorbers are larger in diameter
than standard shock absorbers. The load-leveling
shock absorbers mount the same as the standard
shock absorbers.
OPERATION
The shock absorber dampens jounce and rebound
motions of the spring and suspension.
Each load-leveling shock absorber is a self-leveling,
self-contained vehicle leveling system and shock
absorber combined. It does not require an external
compressor, hoses, or height leveling sensors. All the
height leveling sensors, hydraulic pump, etc., are
contained inside the shock absorber. It uses road
inputs (bumps, stops, starts, turns, acceleration,
deceleration, etc.) to activate pumping, which results
in the extension and compression of the shock
absorber.
REMOVAL - SHOCK ABSORBER
(1) Raise vehicle. (Refer to LUBRICATION &
MAINTENANCE/HOISTING - STANDARD PROCE-
DURE)
(2) Support the rear axle of the vehicle using 2
jackstands positioned at the outer ends of the axle.
NOTE: If the shock absorber lower mounting bolt
deflects upward during removal, raise axle by
adjusting the support jack. If the lower shock
absorber bolt deflects downward during removal,
lower the axle by adjusting the support jack.
(3) Remove the shock absorber lower mounting
bolt.
Fig. 20 Jounce Bumper
1 - JOUNCE BUMPER
Fig. 21 Jounce Bumper - FWD
1-JOUNCE BUMPER
2 - 36 REAR SUSPENSIONRS
JOUNCE BUMPER (Continued)

INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - FRONT DISC BRAKE CALIPER
(CONTINENTAL TEVES BRAKES)
CAUTION: TRW and Continental Teves brake cali-
pers are not interchangeable. Each caliper is specif-
ically designed for the unique brake system. If
calipers are interchanged, improper performance,
noise and increased stopping distance can occur.
(Refer to 5 - BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL -
DESCRIPTION)
(1) Completely retract the caliper piston back into
piston bore of the caliper. Use a C-clamp to retract
the piston if necessary. Place a wood block over the
piston before installing the C-clamp to avoid damag-
ing the piston.
CAUTION: Use care when installing the brake cali-
per assembly onto the steering knuckle, so that the
seals on the caliper guide pin bushings do not get
damaged by the steering knuckle bosses.
(2) Carefully position the brake caliper and shoes
over the brake rotor and adapter.
(3) Install the caliper guide pin bolts and tighten
to a torque of 35 N´m (26 ft. lbs.).Extreme caution
should be taken not to cross thread the caliper
guide pin bolts.
(4) Install the anti-rattle clip on the outboard side
of the caliper. Start the clip into the holes on the cal-
iper, then stretch the clip legs past the abutments on
the caliper adapter.
CAUTION: When connecting the brake hose to the
caliper, install new brake hose to caliper special
copper washers.
(5) Install the brake hose on the caliper. To do
this, first place one NEW special fitting washer on
each side of the hose fitting, then slide the banjo bolt
through the fitting. Next, thread the banjo bolt into
the threaded port on the rear of the brake caliper.
Tighten the banjo bolt to a torque of 47 N´m (35 ft.
lbs.).
(6) Install the wheel and tire assembly. Tighten
the wheel mounting stud nuts in proper sequence
until all nuts are torqued to half specification, then
repeat the tightening sequence to the full specified
torque of 135 N´m (100 ft. lbs.).
(7) Lower the vehicle.
(8) Remove the brake pedal depressor (holding)
tool.
(9) Bleed the hydraulic brake circuit to the brake
caliper. (Refer to 5 - BRAKES - STANDARD PROCE-
DURE)(10) Road test the vehicle and make several stops
to wear off any foreign material on the brakes and to
seat the brake shoe linings.
INSTALLATION - FRONT DISC BRAKE CALIPER
(TRW BRAKES)
CAUTION: TRW and Continental Teves brake cali-
pers are not interchangeable. Each caliper is specif-
ically designed for the unique brake system. If
calipers are interchanged, improper performance,
noise and increased stopping distance can occur.
(Refer to 5 - BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL -
DESCRIPTION)
(1) Completely retract the caliper piston back into
the bore of the caliper. Use a C-clamp to retract the
piston if necessary. Place a wood block over the pis-
ton before installing the C-clamp to avoid damaging
the piston.
CAUTION: Use care when installing the caliper onto
the disc brake adapter to avoid damaging the boots
on the caliper guide pins.
(2) Install the disc brake caliper over the brake
shoes on the brake caliper adapter.
(3) Align the caliper guide pin bolt holes with the
guide pins. Install the caliper guide pin bolts and
tighten them to a torque of 35 N´m (26 ft. lbs.) (Fig.
31).
(4) Install the banjo bolt connecting the brake hose
to the brake caliper (Fig. 31). Install NEW copper
washers on each side of the hose fitting as the banjo
bolt is guided through the fitting. Thread the banjo
bolt into the caliper and tighten it to a torque of 47
N´m (35 ft. lbs.).
(5) Install the tire and wheel assembly. Tighten
the wheel mounting nuts to a torque of 135 N´m (100
ft. lbs.).
(6) Lower the vehicle.
(7) Remove the brake pedal holding tool.
(8) Bleed the caliper as necessary. (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES - BASE - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(9) Road test the vehicle and make several stops to
wear off any foreign material on the brakes and to
seat the brake shoes.
RSBRAKES - BASE5-27
DISC BRAKE CALIPER - FRONT (Continued)

OPERATION
The power brake booster reduces the amount of
force required by the driver to obtain the necessary
hydraulic pressure to stop a vehicle.
The power brake booster is vacuum operated. The
vacuum is supplied from the intake manifold on the
engine through a vacuum hose and the power brake
booster check valve (Fig. 64).
As the brake pedal is depressed, the power brake
booster's input rod moves forward (Fig. 64). This
opens and closes valves in the power booster allowing
atmospheric pressure to enter on one side of a dia-
phragm. Engine vacuum is always present on the
other side. This difference in pressure forces the out-
put rod of the power brake booster out against the
primary piston of the master cylinder. As the pistons
in the master cylinder move forward this creates the
hydraulic pressure in the brake system.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - POWER BRAKE
BOOSTER
BASIC TEST
(1) With engine off, depress and release the brake
pedal several times to purge all vacuum from the
power brake booster.
(2) Depress and hold the pedal with light effort (15
to 25 lbs. pressure), then start the engine.
The pedal should fall slightly, then hold. Less effort
should be needed to apply the pedal at this time. If
the pedal fell as indicated, perform the VACUUM
LEAK TEST listed after the BASIC TEST. If the
pedal did not fall, continue on with this BASIC
TEST.
(3) Disconnect the vacuum hose on the vacuum
check valve, then place a vacuum gauge in line
between the vacuum hose and the valve.
(4) Start the engine.
(5) When the engine is at warm operating temper-
ature, allow it to idle and check the vacuum at the
gauge.
If the vacuum supply is 12 inches Hg (40.5 kPa) or
more, the power brake booster is defective and must
be replaced. If the vacuum supply is below 12 inches
Hg, continue on with this BASIC TEST.
(6) Shut off the engine.
(7) Connect the vacuum gauge to the vacuum ref-
erence port on the engine intake manifold.
(8) Start the engine and observe the vacuum
gauge.
If the vacuum is still low, check the engine tune
and repair as necessary. If the vacuum is above 12
inches Hg, the hose or check valve to the booster has
a restriction or leak.
Once an adequate vacuum supply is obtained,
repeat the BASIC TEST.
VACUUM LEAK TEST
(1) Disconnect the vacuum hose on the vacuum
check valve, then place a vacuum gauge in line
between the vacuum hose and the valve.
(2) Start the engine.
(3) Allow the engine to warm up to normal operat-
ing temperature and engine idle.
(4) Using vacuum line pliers, close off the vacuum
supply hose near the booster, but before the vacuum
gauge, then observe the vacuum gauge.
If the vacuum drop exceeds 1.0 inch Hg (3.3 kPa)
in one minute, repeat the above steps to confirm the
reading. The vacuum loss should be less than 1.0
inch Hg in one minute time span. If the loss is more
than 1.0 inch Hg, replace the power brake booster. If
it is not, continue on with this test.
(5) Remove the pliers from the hose temporarily.
(6) Apply light effort (approximately 15 lbs. of
force) to the brake pedal and hold the pedal steady.
Do not move the pedal once the pressure is applied
or the test results may vary.
(7) Have an assistant reattach the vacuum line
pliers to the vacuum supply hose.
(8) Allow 5 seconds for stabilization, then observe
the vacuum gauge.
If the vacuum drop exceeds 3.0 inches Hg (10 kPa)
in 15 seconds, repeat the above steps to confirm the
reading. The vacuum loss should be less than 3.0
inches Hg in 15 seconds time span. If the loss is
more than 3.0 inches Hg, replace the power brake
booster. If it is not, the booster is not defective.
(9) Remove the pliers and vacuum gauge.
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - LHD
CAUTION: Reserve vacuum in power brake booster
must be pumped down (removed) before removing
master cylinder from booster. This is necessary to
prevent booster from sucking in any contamination
as master cylinder is removed. This can be done
simply by pumping the brake pedal, with the vehi-
cle's engine not running, until a firm feeling brake
pedal is achieved.
(1) With engine not running, pump the brake
pedal until a firm pedal is achieved (4-5 strokes).
(2) Remove negative battery cable terminal from
battery.
(3) Remove positive battery cable terminal from
battery.
(4) Remove battery thermal guard shield.
(5) Remove battery clamp, nut and battery from
the battery tray.
5 - 46 BRAKES - BASERS
POWER BRAKE BOOSTER (Continued)

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
COOLANT COLOR 1. Coolant color is not necessarily
an indication of adequate corrosion
or temperature protection. Do not
rely on coolant color for determining
condition of coolant.1. Check the freeze point of the
coolant. (Refer to 7 - COOLING/
ENGINE/COOLANT - DIAGNOSIS
AND TESTING) Adjust the ethylene
glycol-to-water ratio as necessary.
COOLANT LEVEL CHANGES IN
COOLANT BOTTLE.
TEMPERATURE GAUGE IS IN
NORMAL RANGE.1. Level changes are to be
expected as coolant volume
fluctuates with engine temperature.
The coolant level will also drop as
the system removes air from a
recent filling.1. A normal condition. No repair is
necessary.
Refer to (Fig. 1) when using the TEMPERATURE
GAUGE INDICATION DIAGNOSIS CHART.
TEMPERATURE GAUGE INDICATION DIAGNOSIS CHART
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
TEMPERATURE GAUGE READING
IS INCONSISTENT (FLUCTUATES,
CYCLES OR IS ERRATIC).1. Normal reaction to fan and/or
thermostat cycle (Fig. 1 ),
Examples B and C. During cold
weather operation with the heater
blower in the high position, the
gauge reading may drop slightly
(Fig. 1 ), Example D. Fluctuation is
also influenced by outside
temperature and heavy loads (Fig.
1 ), Example E.1. A normal condition. No correction
is necessary.
2. Gauge reading rises when
vehicle is brought to a stop after
heavy use (engine still running)
(Fig. 1 ), Example F.2. A normal condition. No correction
is necessary. Gauge reading should
return to normal range (Fig. 1 ),
Example A, after vehicle is driven.
3. Gauge reading high after
restarting a warmed-up (hot)
engine.3. A normal condition. No correction
is necessary. The gauge should
return to normal range (Fig. 1 ),
Example A, after a few minutes of
engine operation.
4. Temperature gauge or engine
coolant temperature sensor
defective or shorted. Also, corroded
or loose wiring in the electrical
circuit.4. Check operation of gauge or
engine coolant temperature sensor
and repair, if necessary.
RSENGINE7-17
ENGINE (Continued)

FRONT CONTROL MODULE
DESCRIPTION
The Front Control Module (FCM) is a micro con-
troller based module located in the engine compart-
ment. The FCM mates to the Power Distribution
Center (PDC) to form the Integrated Power Module
(IPM). The IPM connects directly to the battery and
provides the primary means of circuit protection and
power distribution for all vehicle electrical systems.
The FCM controls power to some of these vehicle sys-
tems electrical and electromechanical loads based on
inputs received from hard wired switch inputs and
data received on the Programmable Communications
Interface (PCI) data bus.
For information on the IPM, (Refer to 8 - ELEC-
TRICAL/POWER DISTRIBUTION/INTEGRATED
POWER MODULE - DESCRIPTION)
OPERATION
As messages are sent over the Programmable Com-
munications Interface (PCI) data bus, the Front Con-
trol Module (FCM) reads these messages and controls
power to some of the vehicles electrical systems by
completing the circuit to ground (low side driver) or
completing the circuit to 12 volt power (high side
driver).
The following functions arecontrolledby the
Front Control Module:
²Accessory Relay Actuation
²Brake Transmission Shift Interlock Functions
(BTSI - gas engine only)
²Diesel Cabin Heater (Diesel Engine Vehicles)
²Electronic Back Light (EBL) Rear Defogger
²Front and Rear Blower Motor Relay Actuation
²Front Fog Lamp Relay Actuation
²Washer Motor (front and rear)
²Front Windshield Wiper ªHIº & ªLOº Relay
Actuation
²Front Windshield Wiper ªONº Relay Actuation
²Headlamp Power with Voltage Regulation
²Horn Relay Actuation
²Headlamp Washer Relay Actuation (IF
EQUIPPED - EXPORT ONLY)
²Name Brand Speaker (NBS) Relay Actuation
²Park Lamp Relay Actuation
The following inputs areReceived/Monitoredby
the Front Control Module:
²Ambient Temperature Sensing
²Back-Up switch
²Brake Fluid Level
²B+ Connection Detection
²Engine Crank Signal (Diesel Engine Vehicles)
²Horn Input
²Ignition Switch Start Only
²Ignition Switch Run and Start Only²Stop Lamp Sense
²Washer Fluid Level
²Windshield Wiper Park
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
FRONT CONTROL MODULE
The Front Control Module (FCM) is a printed cir-
cuit board based module with a on-board micro-pro-
cessor. The FCM interfaces with other electronic
modules in the vehicle via the Programmable Com-
munications Interface (PCI) data bus. In order to
obtain conclusive testing the PCI data bus and all of
the electronic modules that provide inputs to, or
receive outputs from the FCM must be checked. All
PCI communication faults must be resolved prior to
further diagnosing any front control module related
issues.
The FCM was designed to be diagnosed with an
appropriate diagnostic scan tool, such as the DRB
IIIt. The most reliable, efficient, and accurate means
to diagnose the front control module requires the use
of a DRB IIItscan tool and the proper Body Diag-
nostic Procedures manual.
Before any testing of the FCM is attempted, the
battery should be fully charged and all wire harness
and ground connections inspected around the affected
areas on the vehicle.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect and isolate the negative and posi-
tive battery cables from the battery.
(2) Remove the battery (Refer to 8 - ELECTRI-
CAL/BATTERY SYSTEM/BATTERY - REMOVAL).
(3) Using a long flat-bladed screwdriver, gently
twist the Integrated Power Module (IPM) retaining
clip outboard to free the IPM from its mounting
bracket (Fig. 5). Rotate IPM upward to access the
Front Control Module (FCM) retaining screws.
(4) Remove the front control module retaining
screws.
(5) Pull the FCM straight from the IPM assembly
to disconnect the electrical connector (Fig. 6) and
remove the FCM from the vehicle.
INSTALLATION
NOTE: Front Control Module must be programmed
to the correct radio EQ curve using the DRB IIIT.
This will ensure that the audio system is operating
correctly.
(1) Install the Front Control Module (FCM) in the
Integrated Power Module (IPM) assembly by pushing
the 49-way electrical connector straight in.
RSELECTRONIC CONTROL MODULES8E-7

(8) Raise vehicle and support.
(9) Install the lower mounting bolt and tighten.
(10) Install the lower oil dip stick tube bolt and
tighten (Fig. 9).
(11) Install accessory drive belt, refer to the Cool-
ing System section for proper procedures.
(12) Install the right front lower splash shield.
(13) Lower vehicle.
(14) Install wiring harness to the oil dip stick tube
(15) Connect battery negative cable.
(16) Verify generator output rate.
GENERATOR DECOUPLER
PULLEY
DESCRIPTION
The Generator Decoupler is a one way clutch (Fig.
11). It is attached to the generator and replaces the
standard pulley. It is a non-serviceable item and is to
be replaced as an assembly. It is a dry operation (no
grease or lubricants). The operation of it is not tem-
perature sensitive and has a low sensitivity to elec-
trical load.
OPERATION
The generator decoupler is a one way clutch and
should be replaced as an assembly. It is designed to
help reduce belt tension fluctuation, reduce fatigue
loads, improve belt life, reduce hubloads on compo-
nents, and reduce noise.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - GENERATOR DECOUPLER PULLEY
CONDITION VERIFICATION PROCEDURE POSSIBLE
CAUSESCORRECTION
Does not drive generator
(Generator not Charging)1. Start engine and allow engine to idle. Clutch
failureReplace
Decoupler
2.Verify generator pulley is rotating.
3. View generator internal fins thru generator housing.
4. Fins either do not rotate or rotate very erratic.
5. Rotate decoupler pulley in clockwise direction then
quickly rotate in counterclockwise direction to see if
clutch engages.
Noise from generator at
engine shut down.1. Start engine and allow engine to idle. Defective
decoupler
pulley
bearing.Replace
decoupler
pulley.
2. Shutdown engine and listen to generator.
3. Noise heard just as engine stops. Sounds like a
click.
4. Remove accessory drive belt.
5. Verify rotation in counterclock wise direction is
rough.
Fig. 11 GENERATOR DECOUPLER 3.3/3.8L
8F - 28 CHARGINGRS
GENERATOR (Continued)

RELAY CIRCUIT TEST
(1) The relay common feed terminal cavity (30) is
connected to battery voltage and should be hot at all
times. If OK, go to Step 2. If not OK, repair the open
circuit to the PDC fuse as required.
(2) The relay normally closed terminal (87A) is
connected to terminal 30 in the de-energized position,
but is not used for this application. Go to Step 3.
(3) The relay normally open terminal (87) is con-
nected to the common feed terminal (30) in the ener-
gized position. This terminal supplies battery voltage
to the starter solenoid field coils. There should be
continuity between the cavity for relay terminal 87
and the starter solenoid terminal at all times. If OK,
go to Step 4. If not OK, repair the open circuit to the
starter solenoid as required.
(4) The coil battery terminal (85) is connected to
the electromagnet in the relay. It is energized when
the ignition switch is held in the Start position and
the clutch pedal is depressed (manual trans). Check
for battery voltage at the cavity for relay terminal 86
with the ignition switch in the Start position and the
clutch pedal is depressed (manual trans), and no
voltage when the ignition switch is released to the
On position. If OK, go to Step 5. If not OK, check for
an open or short circuit to the ignition switch and
repair, if required. If the circuit to the ignition switch
is OK, see the Ignition Switch Test procedure in this
group.
(5) The coil ground terminal (86) is connected to
the electromagnet in the relay. It is grounded by the
PCM if the conditions are right to start the car. For
automatic trans. cars the PCM must see Park Neu-
tral switch low and near zero engine speed (rpm).
For manual trans. cars the PCM only needs to see
near zero engine speed (rpm) and low clutch inter-
lock input and see near zero engine speed (rpm). To
diagnose the Park Neutral switch of the trans range
sensor refer to the transaxle section. Check for conti-
nuity to ground while the ignition switch is in the
start position and if equipped the clutch pedal
depressed. If not OK and the vehicle has an auto-
matic trans. verify Park Neutral switch operation. If
that checks OK check for continuity between PCM
and the terminal 86. Repair open circuit as required.
Also check the clutch interlock switch operation if
equipped with a manual transmission. If OK, the
PCM may be defective.
SAFETY SWITCHES
For diagnostics of the Transmission Range Sensor,
refer to the Transaxle section for more information.
If equipped with Clutch Interlock/Upstop Switch,
refer to Diagnosis and Testing in the Clutch section.
IGNITION SWITCH
After testing starter solenoid and relay, test igni-
tion switch and wiring. Refer to the Ignition Section
or Wiring Diagrams for more information. Check all
wiring for opens or shorts, and all connectors for
being loose or corroded.
BATTERY
For battery diagnosis and testing, refer to the Bat-
tery section for procedures.
ALL RELATED WIRING AND CONNECTORS
Refer to Wiring Diagrams for more information.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - FEED CIRCUIT
RESISTANCE TEST
Before proceeding with this operation, review Diag-
nostic Preparation and Starter Feed Circuit Tests.
The following operation will require a voltmeter,
accurate to 1/10 of a volt.
CAUTION: Ignition and Fuel systems must be dis-
abled to prevent engine start while performing the
following tests.
(1) To disable the Ignition and Fuel systems, dis-
connect the Automatic Shutdown Relay (ASD). The
ASD relay is located in the Power Distribution Cen-
ter (PDC). Refer to the PDC cover for proper relay
location.
(2) Gain access to battery terminals.
(3) With all wiring harnesses and components
properly connected, perform the following:
(a) Connect the negative lead of the voltmeter to
the battery negative post, and positive lead to the
battery negative cable clamp. Rotate and hold the
ignition switch in the START position. Observe the
voltmeter. If voltage is detected, correct poor con-
tact between cable clamp and post.
(b) Connect positive lead of the voltmeter to the
battery positive post, and negative lead to the bat-
tery positive cable clamp. Rotate and hold the igni-
tion switch key in the START position. Observe the
voltmeter. If voltage is detected, correct poor con-
tact between the cable clamp and post.
(c) Connect negative lead of voltmeter to battery
negative terminal, and positive lead to engine
block near the battery cable attaching point.
Rotate and hold the ignition switch in the START
position. If voltage reads above 0.2 volt, correct
poor contact at ground cable attaching point. If
voltage reading is still above 0.2 volt after correct-
ing poor contacts, replace ground cable.
(4) Connect positive voltmeter lead to the starter
motor housing and the negative lead to the battery
negative terminal. Hold the ignition switch key in
RSSTARTING8F-35
STARTING (Continued)