2005 CHRYSLER CARAVAN air condition

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
OIL CONSUMPTION OR SPARK
PLUGS FOULED1. PCV system malfunction. 1. Check system and repair as
necessary. (Refer to 25 -
EMISSIONS CONTROL/
EVAPORATIVE EMISSIONS/PCV
VALVE - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING)
2. Worn, scuffed or broken rings. 2. Hone cylinder bores. Install new
rings.
3. Carbon in oil ring slots. 3. Install new rings.
4. Rings fitted too tightly in grooves. 4. Remove rings and check
grooves. If groove is not proper
width, replace piston.
5. Worn valve guide(s). 5. Replace cylinder head assembly.
6. Valve stem seal(s) worn or
damaged.6. Replace seal(s).
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE OIL LEAK
INSPECTION
Begin with a thorough visual inspection of the
engine, particularly at the area of the suspected leak.
If an oil leak source is not readily identifiable, the
following steps should be followed:
(1) Do not clean or degrease the engine at this
time because some solvents may cause rubber to
swell, temporarily stopping the leak.
(2) Add an oil soluble dye (use as recommended by
manufacturer). Start the engine and let idle for
approximately 15 minutes. Check the oil dipstick to
make sure the dye is thoroughly mixed as indicated
with a bright yellow color under a black light.
(3) Using a black light, inspect the entire engine
for fluorescent dye, particularly at the suspected area
of oil leak. If the oil leak is found and identified,
repair as necessary.
(4) If dye is not observed, drive the vehicle at var-
ious speeds for approximately 24 km (15 miles), and
repeat inspection.
(5)If the oil leak source is not positively
identified at this time, proceed with the air leak
detection test method as follows:
²Disconnect the fresh air hose (make-up air) at
the cylinder head cover and plug or cap the outlet on
the cover.
²Remove the PCV valve hose from the cylinder
head cover. Cap or plug the PCV valve outlet on the
cover.
²Attach an air hose with pressure gauge and reg-
ulator to the dipstick tube.
CAUTION: Do not subject the engine assembly to
more than 20.6 kpa (3 PSI) of test pressure.²Gradually apply air pressure from 1 psi to 2.5
psi maximum while applying soapy water at the sus-
pected source. Adjust the regulator to the suitable
test pressure that provides the best bubbles which
will pinpoint the leak source. If the oil leak is
detected and identified, repair per service manual
procedures.
²If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil
seal area, refer to the section, Inspection for Rear
Seal Area Leak.
(6) If no leaks are detected, turn off the air supply.
Remove the air hose, all plugs, and caps. Install the
PCV valve and fresh air hose (make-up air). Proceed
to next step.
(7) Clean the oil off the suspect oil leak area using
a suitable solvent. Drive the vehicle at various
speeds approximately 24 km (15 miles). Inspect the
engine for signs of an oil leak by using a black light.
NOTE: If oil leakage is observed at the dipstick tube
to block location; remove the tube, clean and reseal
using MoparTStud & Bearing Mount (press fit tube
applications only), and for O-ring style tubes,
remove tube and replace the O-ring seal.
INSPECTION FOR REAR SEAL AREA LEAKS
Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the
source of an oil leak in the rear seal area of the
engine, a more involved inspection is necessary. The
following steps should be followed to help pinpoint
the source of the leak.
If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal
area:
(1) Disconnect the battery.
(2) Raise the vehicle.
9 - 84 ENGINE 3.3/3.8LRS
ENGINE 3.3/3.8L (Continued)

(3) Remove torque converter or clutch housing
cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil.
Use a black light to check for the oil leak. If a leak is
present in this area, remove transmission for further
inspection.
(a) Circular spray pattern generally indicates
seal leakage or crankshaft damage.
(b) Where leakage tends to run straight down,
possible causes are a porous block, oil gallery cup
plug, bedplate to cylinder block mating surfaces
and seal bore. See proper repair procedures for
these items.
(4) If no leaks are detected, pressurize the crank-
case as previously described.
CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
(5) If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the
crankshaft and watch for leakage. If a leak is
detected between the crankshaft and seal while
slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the
crankshaft seal surface is damaged. The seal area on
the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches
that can be polished out with emery cloth.
CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft
polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks and
scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is especially
machined to complement the function of the rear oil
seal.
(6) For bubbles that remain steady with shaft
rotation, no further inspection can be done until dis-
assembled.
(7) After the oil leak root cause and appropriate
corrective action have been identified, replace compo-
nent(s) as necessary.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CYLINDER
COMPRESSION PRESSURE TEST
The results of a cylinder compression pressure test
can be utilized to diagnose several engine malfunc-
tions.
Ensure the battery is completely charged and the
engine starter motor is in good operating condition.
Otherwise the indicated compression pressures may
not be valid for diagnosis purposes.
(1) Check engine oil level and add oil if necessary.
(2) Drive the vehicle until engine reaches normal
operating temperature. Select a route free from traf-
fic and other forms of congestion, observe all traffic
laws, and accelerate through the gears several times
briskly.
(3) Remove all spark plugs from engine. As spark
plugs are being removed, check electrodes for abnor-
mal firing indicators fouled, hot, oily, etc. Record cyl-
inder number of spark plug for future reference.(4) Remove the Auto Shutdown (ASD) relay from
the PDC.
(5) Be sure throttle blade is fully open during the
compression check.
(6) Insert compression gauge adaptor Special Tool
8116 or the equivalent, into the #1 spark plug hole in
cylinder head. Connect the 0±500 psi (Blue) pressure
transducer (Special Tool CH7059) with cable adap-
tors to the DRBIIIt. For Special Tool identification,
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE - SPECIAL TOOLS).
(7) Crank engine until maximum pressure is
reached on gauge. Record this pressure as #1 cylin-
der pressure.
(8) Repeat the previous step for all remaining cyl-
inders.
(9) Compression should not be less than 689 kPa
(100 psi) and not vary more than 25 percent from cyl-
inder to cylinder.
(10) If one or more cylinders have abnormally low
compression pressures, repeat the compression test.
(11) If the same cylinder or cylinders repeat an
abnormally low reading on the second compression
test, it could indicate the existence of a problem in
the cylinder in question.The recommended com-
pression pressures are to be used only as a
guide to diagnosing engine problems. An engine
should not be disassembled to determine the
cause of low compression unless some malfunc-
tion is present.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CYLINDER
COMBUSTION PRESSURE LEAKAGE TEST
The combustion pressure leakage test provides an
accurate means for determining engine condition.
Combustion pressure leakage testing will detect:
²Exhaust and intake valve leaks (improper seat-
ing).
²Leaks between adjacent cylinders or into water
jacket.
²Any causes for combustion/compression pressure
loss.
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE THE PRESSURE CAP
WITH THE SYSTEM HOT AND UNDER PRESSURE
BECAUSE SERIOUS BURNS FROM COOLANT CAN
OCCUR.
Check the coolant level and fill as required. DO
NOT install the pressure cap.
Start and operate the engine until it attains nor-
mal operating temperature, then turn the engine
OFF.
Clean spark plug recesses with compressed air.
Remove the spark plugs.
Remove the oil filler cap.
Remove the air cleaner.
RSENGINE 3.3/3.8L9-85
ENGINE 3.3/3.8L (Continued)

(13) Disconnect the EGR transducer electrical con-
nector (if equipped).
(14) Disconnect the vacuum hoses from throttle
body.
(15) Disconnect the brake booster and speed con-
trol vacuum hoses.
(16) Disengage wire harness clip from the right
side engine mount.
(17) Remove the power steering reservoir from
mounting position and set aside.Do notdisconnect
hose.
(18) Disconnect ground strap from rear of cylinder
head.
(19) Disconnect engine coolant temperature (ECT)
sensor and ignition coil electrical connectors.
(20) Disconnect the fuel injector electrical harness
connector and disengage clip from support bracket.
(21) Disconnect camshaft and crankshaft position
sensor electrical connectors.
(22) Evacuate air conditioning system. Refer to 24
- HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING.
(23) Disconnect A/C compressor electrical connec-
tor.
(24) Disconnect the A/C lines from compressor.
Cover and seal all openings of hoses and compressor.
(25) Remove the radiator upper hose.
(26) Disengage electrical harness clip at transaxle
dipstick tube.
(27) Remove transaxle dipstick tube. Seal opening
using a suitable plug.
NOTE: When the transaxle cooler lines are removed
from the rolled-groove type fittings at the transaxle,
damage to the inner wall of the hose will occur. To
prevent prevent potential leakage, the cooler hoses
must be cut off flush at the transaxle fitting, and a
service cooler hose splice kit must be installed
upon reassembly.
(28) Using a blade or suitable hose cutter, cut
transaxle oil cooler lines off flush with fittings. Plug
cooler lines and fittings to prevent debris from enter-
ing transaxle or cooler circuit. A service splice kit will
be installed upon reassembly.
(29) Disconnect transaxle shift linkage and electri-
cal connectors.
(30) Raise vehicle on hoist and drain the engine
oil.
(31) Remove the axle shafts. (Refer to 3 - DIFFER-
ENTIAL & DRIVELINE/HALF SHAFT - REMOVAL)
(32) Remove crossmember cradle plate (Fig. 6).
(33)AWD equipped:Remove the power transfer
unit (PTU) (Refer to 21 - TRANSMISSION/TRANS-
AXLE/POWER TRANSFER UNIT - REMOVAL).
(34) Disconnect exhaust pipe from the manifold
(Fig. 7).(35) Remove front engine mount and bracket as an
assembly.
(36) Remove the engine rear mount bracket.
(37) Remove the engine to transaxle struts (Fig. 8).
(38) Remove transaxle case cover (Fig. 8).
(39) Remove flex plate to torque converter bolts.
Mark torque converter to flex plate for orientation for
reassembly.
(40) Remove the power steering pressure hose sup-
port clip attaching bolt.
Fig. 6 Crossmember Cradle Plate
1 - CRADLE PLATE
Fig. 7 Catalytic Converter to Exhaust Manifold
1 - FLAG NUT
2 - GASKET
3 - BOLT
4 - CATALYTIC CONVERTER
RSENGINE 3.3/3.8L9-89
ENGINE 3.3/3.8L (Continued)

(41) Disconnect the knock sensor electrical connec-
tor (3.8L only).
(42) Disconnect the engine block heater electrical
connector (if equipped).
(43) Remove the accessory belt splash shield.
(44) Remove accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
REMOVAL).
(45) Disconnect the radiator lower hose.
(46) Remove air conditioning compressor from
engine.
(47) Remove the generator (Refer to 8 - ELECTRI-
CAL/CHARGING/GENERATOR - REMOVAL).
(48) Remove the water pump pulley attaching
bolts and position pulley between pump hub and
housing.
(49) Disconnect the oil pressure switch electrical
connector.
(50) Disconnect wiring harness support clip from
engine oil dipstick tube.
(51) Install Special Tools 6912 and 8444 Adapters
on the right side (rear) of engine block (Fig. 9).
(52) Lower the vehicle.
(53) Remove the power steering pump and set
aside.(54) Raise vehicle enough to allow engine dolly
Special Tool 6135 and cradle Special Tool 6710 with
post Special Tool 6848 and adaptor Special Tool 6909
to be installed under vehicle (Fig. 12).
(55) Loosen cradle/post mounts to allow movement
for positioning posts into locating holes on the engine
(Fig. 10) and (Fig. 11). Slowly lower vehicle and posi-
tion cradle/post mounts until the engine is resting on
posts. Tighten all cradle/post mounts to cradle frame.
This will keep mounts from moving when removing
or installing engine and transmission.
(56) Lower vehicle so the weight ofONLY THE
ENGINE AND TRANSMISSIONis on the cradle.
(57) Install and secure the safety straps to the cra-
dle fixture and around the engine (Fig. 12).
(58) Remove the engine right side mount to engine
attaching bolts (Fig. 13).
(59) Remove the left mount through bolt (Fig. 14).
Fig. 8 POWERTRAIN SUPPORTS AND DUST COVER
1 - BRACKET - ENGINE REAR MOUNT
2 - BOLT - TRANSAXLE CASE COVER
3 - STRUT - TRANSAXLE TO ENGINE HORIZONTAL
4 - BOLT - HORIZONTAL STRUT
5 - BOLT - STRUT TO TRANSAXLE
6 - COVER - TRANSAXLE CASE LOWER
7 - STRUT - TRANSAXLE TO ENGINE
8 - BOLT - STRUT TO ENGINE
9 - BOLT - ENGINE REAR MOUNT BRACKET
Fig. 9 ADAPTER TOOLS MOUNTED ON BLOCK
1 - SPECIAL TOOL 6912
2 - SPECIAL TOOL 8444
Fig. 10 Positioning Special Tool 6848 for use with
Adapters 8444 & 6912
1 - SLOTS
2 - SPECIAL TOOLS 6848
9 - 90 ENGINE 3.3/3.8LRS
ENGINE 3.3/3.8L (Continued)

REMOVAL - CYLINDER HEAD ON
(1) Disconnect negative cable from battery.
(2) Remove spark plug wires and all spark plugs.
(3) Remove cylinder head cover(s). (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - REMOVAL)
(4) Remove rocker arms and shaft. (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/ROCKER ARMS -
REMOVAL)
(5) Rotate engine until the piston in the cylinder
bore requiring spring removal is at TDC.
(6) Install Special Tool 8453 to the cylinder head
(Fig. 37). Tighten the attaching bolts to 23 N´m (200
in. lbs.).
(7) Install a spark plug adapter in the spark plug
hole. Connect air hose that can supply 620.5±689 kPa
(90±100 psi) of air pressure to adapter. This is to
hold valves in place while servicing components.
(8) Locate the forcing screw and spring retainer
adapter assembly over the spring requiring removal
(Fig. 37).
(9) Slowly turn the forcing screw clockwise (com-
pressing the valve spring) until the valve keepers can
be removed.
(10) Turn forcing screw counterclockwise to relieve
spring tension. Remove retainer and valve spring.
(11) Repeat procedure for each cylinder requiring
valve spring removal.
INSPECTION
NOTE: The are two different types of valve springs
used that are interchangable, but have different
specifications(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER
HEAD/VALVE SPRINGS - DESCRIPTION).Whenever valves have been removed for inspection,
reconditioning or replacement, valve springs should
be tested (Fig. 38).As an example;the compression
length of a spring to be tested is 38.00 mm (1.496
in.). Turn the table of Tool C-647 until surface is in
line with the 38.00 mm (1.496 in.) mark on the
threaded stud and the zero mark on the front. Place
spring over stud on the table and lift compressing
lever to set tone device. Pull on torque wrench until
ping is heard. Take reading on torque wrench at this
instant. Multiply this reading by two. This will give
the spring load at test length. Fractional measure-
ments are indicated on the table for finer adjust-
ments. Refer to Engine Specifications to obtain
specified height and allowable tensions (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE - SPECIFICATIONS). Replace any springs
that do not meet specifications.
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - CYLINDER HEAD OFF
(1) If removed, install a new valve stem seal (Refer
to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/VALVE STEM
SEALS - INSTALLATION).
(2) Position valve spring and retainer on spring
seat.
(3) Using Special Tool C-3422-D with 8464 Adapter
(Fig. 36), compress the spring only enough to install
the valve retainer locks. Install valve retainer locks.
(4) Slowly release the spring tension. Ensure the
retainer locks are seated properly (Fig. 39).
INSTALLATION - CYLINDER HEAD ON
(1) The intake valve stem seals should be pushed
firmly and squarely over the valve guide using the
Fig. 37 VALVE SPRING - REMOVE/INSTALL (HEAD
ON)
1 - SPECIAL TOOL 8453
2 - BOLTS - SPECIAL TOOL ATTACHING
3 - AIR SUPPLY HOSE ADAPTER
Fig. 38 TESTING VALVE SPRING
1 - SPECIAL TOOL C-647
RSENGINE 3.3/3.8L9 - 111
VALVE SPRINGS (Continued)

46) (Refer to 9 - ENGINE - SPECIFICATIONS). If
the cylinder walls are badly scuffed or scored, the
cylinder block should be replaced, and new pistons
and rings fitted.
Measure the cylinder bore at three levels in direc-
tions A and B (Fig. 46). Top measurement should be
10 mm (3/8 in.) down and bottom measurement
should be 10 mm (3/8 in.) up from bottom of bore.
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE - SPECIFICATIONS).
HYDRAULIC LIFTERS (CAM IN
BLOCK)
DESCRIPTION
The hydraulic lifters are a roller type design and
are positioned in the cylinder block. The lifters are
aligned and retained by a yoke and a retainer (Fig.
48).
Lifter alignment is maintained by machined flats
on lifter body. Lifters are fitted in pairs into six
aligning yokes. The aligning yokes are secured by a
yoke retainer (Fig. 48).
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HYDRAULIC
LIFTERS
HYDRAULIC LIFTERS DIAGNOSIS - PRELIMINARY
STEP
Before disassembling any part of the engine to cor-
rect lifter noise, check the engine oil pressure. (Referto 9 - ENGINE/LUBRICATION - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING)
Check engine oil level. The oil level in the pan
should never be above the MAX mark on dipstick, or
below the MIN mark. Either of these two conditions
could cause noisy lifters.
OIL LEVEL TOO HIGH
If oil level is above the MAX mark on dipstick, it is
possible for the connecting rods to dip into the oil
while engine is running and create foaming. Foam in
oil pan would be fed to the hydraulic lifters by the oil
pump causing them to become soft and allow valves
to seat noisily.
OIL LEVEL TOO LOW
Low oil level may allow pump to take in air which
when fed to the lifters it causes them to become soft
and allows valves to seat noisily. Any leaks on intake
side of pump, through which air can be drawn, will
create the same lifter noise. Check the lubrication
system from the intake strainer to the oil pump
cover, including the relief valve retainer cap. When
lifter noise is due to aeration, it may be intermittent
or constant, and usually more than one lifter will be
noisy. When oil level and leaks have been corrected,
the engine should be operated at fast idle to allow all
of the air inside of the lifters to be bled out.
VALVE TRAIN NOISE
To determine source of valve train noise, operate
engine at idle with cylinder head covers removed and
listen for source of the noise.
NOTE: Worn valve guides or cocked springs are
sometimes mistaken for noisy lifters. If such is the
case, noise may be dampened by applying side
thrust on the valve spring. If noise is not apprecia-
bly reduced, it can be assumed the noise is in the
tappet. Inspect the rocker arm push rod sockets
and push rod ends for wear.
Valve lifter noise ranges from light noise to a
heavy click. A light noise is usually caused by exces-
sive leak-down around the unit plunger which will
necessitate replacing the lifter, or by the plunger par-
tially sticking in the lifter body cylinder. A heavy
click is caused either by a lifter check valve not seat-
ing, or by foreign particles becoming wedged between
the plunger and the lifter body causing the plunger
to stick in the down position. This heavy click will be
accompanied by excessive clearance between the
valve stem and rocker arm as valve closes. In either
case, lifter assembly should be removed for inspec-
tion.
Fig. 46 Checking Cylinder Bore Size
9 - 116 ENGINE 3.3/3.8LRS
ENGINE BLOCK (Continued)

INSPECTION
(1) Inspect oil drain plug and plug hole for
stripped or damaged threads and repair as necessary.
Install a new drain plug gasket. Tighten to 27 N´m
(20 ft. lbs.).
(2) Inspect oil pan mounting flange for bends or
distortion. Straighten flange if necessary.
(3) Inspect condition of oil screen and pick-up tube.
INSTALLATION
(1) Clean sealing surfaces and apply a 1/8 inch
bead of MopartEngine RTV GEN II at the parting
line of the chain case cover and the rear seal retainer
(Fig. 103).
(2) Position a new pan gasket on oil pan (Fig. 102).
(3) Install oil pan and tighten fasteners to 12 N´m
(105 in. lbs.) (Fig. 102).
(4) Install cover to transaxle case (Fig. 101).
(5) Install the strut bolt to transaxle housing (Fig.
101). Tighten all bending brace bolts.
(6) Install the drive belt splash shield.
(7) Lower vehicle and install oil dipstick.
(8) Connect negative cable to battery.
(9) Fill crankcase with oil to proper level.
OIL PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE
REMOVAL
(1) Remove oil pan (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRI-
CATION/OIL PAN - REMOVAL).
(2) Drill a 3.175 mm (1/8 in.) hole in the center of
the retainer cap (Fig. 104). Insert a self-threading
sheet metal screw into the cap.
(3) Using suitable pliers, remove cap and discard.
(4) Remove spring and relief valve (Fig. 104).
Fig. 102 OIL PAN
1 - GASKET
2 - BOLT
3 - OIL PAN
4 - NUT
Fig. 103 Oil Pan Sealing
1 - SEALER LOCATIONS
Fig. 104 Oil Pressure Relief Valve
1 - RELIEF VALVE
2 - SPRING
3 - RETAINER CAP
RSENGINE 3.3/3.8L9 - 143
OIL PAN (Continued)

(2) Install timing chain cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT / CHAIN
COVER(S) - INSTALLATION) and oil pan (Refer to 9
- ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT / CHAIN
COVER(S) - INSTALLATION).
INTAKE MANIFOLD
DESCRIPTION
The intake system is made up of an upper and
lower intake manifold. The upper intake manifold is
made of a composite for both the 3.3L engine and for
the 3.8L engine (Fig. 118). The lower intake manifold
is common between the two engines (Fig. 122). It also
provides coolant crossover between cylinder heads
and houses the coolant thermostat (Fig. 122).
The intake manifold utilizes a compact design with
very low restriction and outstanding flow balance.
This design allows the engine to perform with a wide
torque curve while increasing higher rpm horse-
power.
If, for some reason, the molded-in vacuum ports
break, the composite manifold can be salvaged. The
vacuum ports are designed to break at the shoulder,
if overloaded. Additional material in the shoulder
area provides sufficient stock to repair. For more
information and procedure, (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
MANIFOLDS/INTAKE MANIFOLD - STANDARD
PROCEDURE). Also, if the special screws that attach
the MAP sensor, power steering reservoir, throttle
cable bracket, and the EGR tube become stripped, an
oversized screw is available to repair the stripped-out
condition. For more information and procedure,
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/MANIFOLDS/INTAKE MANI-
FOLD - STANDARD PROCEDURE)
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - INTAKE
MANIFOLD LEAKS
An intake manifold air leak is characterized by
lower than normal manifold vacuum. Also, one or
more cylinders may not be functioning.
WARNING: USE EXTREME CAUTION WHEN THE
ENGINE IS OPERATING. DO NOT STAND IN A
DIRECT LINE WITH THE FAN. DO NOT PUT YOUR
HANDS NEAR THE PULLEYS, BELTS OR THE FAN.
DO NOT WEAR LOOSE CLOTHING.
(1) Start the engine.
(2) Spray a small stream of water (Spray Bottle) at
the suspected leak area.
(3) If engine RPM'S change, the area of the sus-
pected leak has been found.
(4) Repair as required.
INTAKE MANIFOLD - UPPER
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - MANIFOLD
STRIPPED THREAD REPAIR
The composite upper intake manifold thread
bosses, if stripped out, can be repaired by utilizing a
repair screw available through Mopartparts. Repair
screws are available for the following manifold
attached components:
²MAP sensor
²Power steering reservoir
²EGR tube
²Throttle cable bracket
The repair screws require a unique tightening
torque specification from the original screw. Refer to
the following chart for specification.
DESCRIPTION TORQUE*
STRIP-OUT REPAIR SCREWS ONLY
MAP Sensor Repair
Screw4 N´m (35 in. lbs.)
Power Steering Reservoir
Repair Screw9 N´m (80 in. lbs.)
EGR Tube Attaching
Repair Screw9 N´m (80 in. lbs.)
Throttle Cable Bracket
Repair Screw9 N´m (80 in. lbs.)
*Install Slowly Using Hand Tools Only
Fig. 113 Oil Pressure Relief Valve
1 - RELIEF VALVE
2 - SPRING
3 - RETAINER CAP
RSENGINE 3.3/3.8L9 - 147
OIL PUMP (Continued)