2005 CHEVROLET TAHOE brakes

Hill and Mountain Roads
Driving on steep hills or mountains is different from
driving in at or rolling terrain.If you drive regularly in steep country, or if you are
planning to visit there, here are some tips that can make
your trips safer and more enjoyable. SeeOff-Road
Driving on page 4-22for information about driving
off-road.
Keep your vehicle in good shape. Check all uid
levels and also the brakes, tires, cooling system,
and transmission. These parts can work hard
on mountain roads.
Know how to go down hills. The most important
thing to know is this: let your engine do some of
the slowing down. Shift to a lower gear when you go
down a steep or long hill.
{CAUTION:
If you do not shift down, your brakes could get
so hot that they would not work well. You
would then have poor braking or even none
going down a hill. You could crash. Shift down
to let your engine assist your brakes on a
steep downhill slope.
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{CAUTION:
Coasting downhill in NEUTRAL (N) or with the
ignition off is dangerous. Your brakes will have
to do all the work of slowing down. They could
get so hot that they would not work well. You
would then have poor braking or even none
going down a hill. You could crash. Always
have your engine running and your vehicle in
gear when you go downhill.
Know how to go uphill. You may want to shift down to
a lower gear. The lower gears help cool your engine
and transmission, and you can climb the hill better.
Stay in your own lane when driving on two-lane
roads in hills or mountains. Do not swing wide
or cut across the center of the road. Drive at speeds
that let you stay in your own lane.
As you go over the top of a hill, be alert. There
could be something in your lane, like a stalled car or
an accident.
You may see highway signs on mountains that
warn of special problems. Examples are long
grades, passing or no-passing zones, a falling rocks
area, or winding roads. Be alert to these and take
appropriate action.
Winter Driving
Here are some tips for winter driving:
Have your vehicle in good shape for winter.
You may want to put winter emergency supplies in
your vehicle.
Also seeTires on page 5-60.
4-45

For example, adding a 700 lb (318 kg) snow plow
actually adds more than 700 lbs (318 kg) to the front
axle. Using the formula, if the snow plow is 4 ft (122 cm)
in front of the front axle and the wheel base is 10 ft
(305 cm), then:
W = 700 lb (318 kg)
A = 4 ft (122 cm)
W.B. = 10 ft (305 cm)
(W x (A + W.B.))/W.B. = (700 x (4 + 10))/10 =
980 lbs (445 kg)
So, if your vehicle’s front axle reserve capacity is more
than 980 lbs (445 kg), you could add the snow plow
without exceeding the front GAWR.
Q:What if I want to add heavier equipment to my
vehicle?
A:You can add heavier equipment on the front of the
vehicle if you compensate for it by carrying fewer
passengers, less cargo, or by positioning cargo
towards the rear. This has the effect of reducing the
load on the front. However, the front GAWR, rear
GAWR and the gross vehicle weight rating (GVWR)
must never be exceeded.
{CAUTION:
On some vehicles equipped with certain front
mounted equipment, such as a snow plow, it
may be possible to load the front axle to the
front GAWR but not have enough weight on
the rear axle to have proper braking
performance. If your brakes can not work
properly, you could have a crash. To help your
brakes work properly when a snow plow is
installed, always follow the snow plow
manufacturer or installer’s recommendation for
rear ballast to ensure a proper front and rear
weight distribution ratio, even though the
actual front weight may be less than the front
GAWR, and the total vehicle weight is less
than the GVWR. Maintaining a proper front and
rear weight distribution ratio is necessary to
provide proper braking performance.
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Autoride®
If equipped, the Autoride®feature will provide a superior
vehicle ride and handling under a variety of passenger
and loading conditions.
The system is fully automatic and uses a computer
controller to continuously monitor vehicle speed, wheel
to body position, lift/dive and steering position of the
vehicle. The controller then sends signals to each shock
absorber to independently adjust the damping level to
provide the optimum vehicle ride.
Autoride
®also interacts with the tow/haul switch that,
when engaged, will provide additional control of the
shock absorbers. This additional control results in better
ride and handling characteristics when the vehicle is
loaded or towing a trailer. SeeTow/Haul Mode Light on
page 3-54for more information.
Trailer Recommendations
You must subtract your hitch loads from the Cargo
Weight Rating (CWR) for your vehicle. CWR is the
maximum weight of the load your vehicle can carry. It
doesn’t include the weight of the people inside. But you
can gure about 150 lbs. (68 kg) for each seat. The total
cargo load must not be more than your vehicle’s CWR.
Weigh your vehicle with the trailer attached, so that you
won’t go over the GVWR or GAWR. If you are using
a weight-distributing hitch, weigh the vehicle without the
spring bars in place.
You’ll get the best performance if you spread out the
weight of your load the right way, and if you choose the
correct hitch and trailer brakes.
For more information, seeTowing a Trailer on
page 4-67.
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Towing a Trailer
Do not tow a trailer during break-in. SeeNew Vehicle
Break-In on page 2-19for more information.
{CAUTION:
If you do not use the correct equipment and
drive properly, you can lose control when you
pull a trailer. For example, if the trailer is too
heavy, the brakes may not work well — or even
at all. You and your passengers could be
seriously injured. Pull a trailer only if you have
followed all the steps in this section. Ask your
dealer for advice and information about towing
a trailer with your vehicle.Notice:Pulling a trailer improperly can damage
your vehicle and result in costly repairs not covered
by your warranty. To pull a trailer correctly, follow
the advice in this part, and see your dealer for
important information about towing a trailer with
your vehicle.
To identify the vehicle trailering capacity of your vehicle,
you should read the information in “Weight of the
Trailer” that appears later in this section.
If yours was built with trailering options, as many are,
it’s ready for heavier trailers. But trailering is different
than just driving your vehicle by itself. Trailering means
changes in acceleration, braking, handling, durability
and fuel economy. Successful, safe trailering takes
correct equipment, and it has to be used properly.
That’s the reason for this part. In it are many time-tested,
important trailering tips and safety rules. Many of
these are important for your safety and that of your
passengers. So please read this section carefully before
you pull a trailer.
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If you will be pulling a trailer that, when loaded, will
weigh more than 5,000 lbs (2 270 kg) be sure to use a
properly mounted weight-distributing hitch and sway
control of the proper size. This equipment is very
important for proper vehicle loading and good handling
when driving. Always use a sway control if the trailer
will weigh more than these limits. You can ask a
hitch dealer about sway controls.
Safety Chains
You should always attach safety chains between your
vehicle and your trailer. Cross the safety chains
under the tongue of the trailer to help prevent the tongue
from contacting the road if it becomes separated from
the hitch.
If you are towing a trailer up to 5,000 lbs (2 270 kg) with
a factory-installed step bumper, you may attach the
safety chains to the attaching points on the bumper. If
you are towing a trailer up to your vehicle’s trailer rating
limit, you may attach the safety chains to the attaching
point on the hitch platform. If you are towing with
an aftermarket hitch, following the trailer or hitch
manufacturer’s recommendation for attaching safety
chains. Always leave just enough slack so you can turn
with your rig. Never allow safety chains to drag on
the ground.
Trailer Brakes
If your trailer weighs more than 2,000 lbs (900 kg)
loaded, then it needs its own brakes – and they must be
adequate. Be sure to read and follow the instructions
for the trailer brakes so you’ll be able to install,
adjust and maintain them properly.
If your vehicle is equipped with StabiliTrak
®, your trailer
cannot tap into the vehicle’s hydraulic brake system.
Your trailer brake system can tap into the vehicle’s
hydraulic brake system only if:
The trailer parts can withstand 3,000 psi
(20 650 kPa) of pressure.
The trailer’s brake system will use less than
0.02 cubic inches (0.3 cc) of uid from your vehicle’s
master cylinder. Otherwise, both braking systems
won’t work well. You could even lose your brakes.
If everything checks out this far, make the brake tap at
the port on the master cylinder that sends the uid
to the rear brakes. But don’t use copper tubing for this.
If you do, it will bend and nally break off. Use steel
brake tubing.
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Driving with a Trailer
{CAUTION:
If you have a rear-most window open and you
pull a trailer with your vehicle, carbon
monoxide (CO) could come into your vehicle.
You cannot see or smell CO. It can cause
unconsciousness or death. SeeEngine
Exhaust on page 2-39. To maximize your safety
when towing a trailer:
Have your exhaust system inspected for
leaks, and make necessary repairs before
starting on your trip.
Keep the rear-most windows closed.
If exhaust does come into your vehicle
through a window in the rear or another
opening, drive with your front, main
heating or cooling system on and with the
fan on any speed. This will bring fresh,
outside air into your vehicle. Do not use
the climate control setting for maximum air
because it only recirculates the air inside
your vehicle. SeeClimate Control System
on page 3-21.Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience.
Before setting out for the open road, you’ll want to get
to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of
handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer.
And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are
driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly as
responsive as your vehicle is by itself.
Before you start, check all trailer hitch parts and
attachments, safety chains, electrical connector, lamps,
tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has electric
brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and then
apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure
the brakes are working. This lets you check your
electrical connection at the same time.
During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the
load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer
brakes are still working.
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Driving On Grades
Reduce speed and shift to a lower gearbeforeyou start
down a long or steep downgrade. If you don’t shift
down, you might have to use your brakes so much that
they would get hot and no longer work well.
You can tow in DRIVE (D). You may want to shift the
transmission to THIRD (3) or, if necessary, a lower gear
selection if the transmission shifts too often (e.g.,
under heavy loads and/or hilly conditions).
You may also want to activate the tow/haul mode if the
transmission shifts too often. See “Tow/Haul Mode”
earlier in this section for more information.
When towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades,
consider the following: Engine coolant will boil at a lower
temperature than at normal altitudes. If you turn your
engine off immediately after towing at high altitude
on steep uphill grades, your vehicle may show signs
similar to engine overheating. To avoid this, let the
engine run while parked (preferably on level ground)
with the automatic transmission in PARK (P) for a
few minutes before turning the engine off. If you do get
the overheat warning, seeEngine Overheating on
page 5-28.
Parking on Hills
{CAUTION:
You really should not park your vehicle, with a
trailer attached, on a hill. If something goes
wrong, your rig could start to move. People
can be injured, and both your vehicle and the
trailer can be damaged.
But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here’s
how to do it:
1. Apply your regular brake, but don’t shift into
PARK (P) yet.
2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer
wheels.
3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the
regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load.
4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your
parking brake and shift into PARK (P).
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