Engine Coolant Heater
Your vehicle may be equipped with an engine coolant
heater.
In very cold weather, 0°F (−18°C) or colder, the engine
coolant heater can help. You will get easier starting
and better fuel economy during engine warm-up.
Usually, the coolant heater should be plugged in a
minimum of four hours prior to starting your vehicle.
At temperatures above 32°F (0°C), use of the coolant
heater is not required. Your vehicle may also have
an internal thermostat in the plug end of the cord.
This will prevent operation of the engine coolant heater
when the temperature is at or above 0°F (−18°C) as
noted on the cord.
To Use the Engine Coolant Heater
1. Turn off the engine.
2. Open the hood and unwrap the electrical cord.
The cord is located on the driver’s side of the
engine compartment, near the power steering uid
reservoir.
3. Plug it into a normal, grounded 110-volt AC outlet.
{CAUTION:
Plugging the cord into an ungrounded outlet
could cause an electrical shock. Also, the
wrong kind of extension cord could overheat
and cause a re. You could be seriously
injured. Plug the cord into a properly grounded
three-prong 110-volt AC outlet. If the cord
will not reach, use a heavy-duty three-prong
extension cord rated for at least 15 amps.
4. Before starting the engine, be sure to unplug and
store the cord as it was before to keep it away
from moving engine parts. If you do not, it could
be damaged.
How long should you keep the coolant heater plugged
in? The answer depends on the outside temperature, the
kind of oil you have, and some other things. Instead
of trying to list everything here, we ask that you contact
your dealer in the area where you will be parking
your vehicle. The dealer can give you the best advice
for that particular area.
2-23
A. Dome Lamp Override Button. SeeDome Lamp
Override on page 3-19.
B. Headlamp Controls. SeeHeadlamps on page 3-14.
C. Air Outlets. SeeOutlet Adjustment on page 3-30.
D. Automatic Transfer Case Buttons. SeeFour-Wheel
Drive on page 2-28.
E. Turn Signal/Multifunction Lever. SeeTurn
Signal/Multifunction Lever on page 3-7.
F. Instrument Panel Cluster. SeeInstrument Panel
Cluster on page 3-37.
G. Gearshift Lever. SeeAutomatic Transmission
Operation on page 2-24.
H. Tow/Haul Selector Button (If Equipped).
SeeTow/Haul Mode on page 2-27.
I. Audio System. SeeAudio System(s) on page 3-78.
J. Dual Climate Control System. SeeDual Climate
Control System on page 3-22.Dual Automatic
Climate Control System on page 3-25.
K. Instrument Panel Fuse Block. SeeInstrument Panel
Fuse Block on page 5-108.L. Hood Release. SeeHood Release on page 5-11.
M. Steering Wheel Control Buttons (If Equipped).
SeeDriver Information Center (DIC) on page 3-56
andAudio Steering Wheel Controls on page 3-135.
N. Center Instrument Panel Utility Block. SeeCenter
Instrument Panel Fuse Block on page 5-110.
O. Tilt Wheel Lever. SeeTilt Wheel on page 3-6.
P. Parking Brake Release. SeeParking Brake on
page 2-35.
Q. Cigarette Lighter. SeeAshtrays and Cigarette
Lighter on page 3-21. Accessory Power Outlets.
SeeAccessory Power Outlets on page 3-20.
R. Storage Area (If Equipped). SeeCenter Console
Storage Area on page 2-57.
S. Ashtray. SeeAshtrays and Cigarette Lighter on
page 3-21.
T. StabiliTrak
®or Traction Assist System (TAS)
Button (If Equipped). SeeStabiliTrak®System
on page 4-11orTraction Assist System (TAS) on
page 4-9.
U. Glovebox. SeeGlove Box on page 2-57.
3-5
Control of a Vehicle
You have three systems that make your vehicle go where
you want it to go. They are the brakes, the steering, and
the accelerator. All three systems have to do their work at
the places where the tires meet the road.
Sometimes, as when you are driving on snow or ice, it
is easy to ask more of those control systems than
the tires and road can provide. That means you can lose
control of your vehicle. SeeTraction Assist System
(TAS) on page 4-9.
Braking
Braking action involves perception time and reaction
time.
First, you have to decide to push on the brake pedal.
That is perception time. Then you have to bring up your
foot and do it. That is reaction time.
Average reaction time is about three-fourths of a
second. But that is only an average. It might be less
with one driver and as long as two or three seconds or
more with another. Age, physical condition, alertness,
coordination, and eyesight all play a part. So do alcohol,
drugs, and frustration. But even in three-fourths of a
second, a vehicle moving at 60 mph (100 km/h) travels66 feet (20 m). That could be a lot of distance in an
emergency, so keeping enough space between
your vehicle and others is important.
And, of course, actual stopping distances vary greatly
with the surface of the road, whether it is pavement
or gravel; the condition of the road, whether it is
wet, dry, or icy; tire tread; the condition of your brakes;
the weight of the vehicle; and the amount of brake
force applied.
Avoid needless heavy braking. Some people drive
in spurts — heavy acceleration followed by heavy
braking — rather than keeping pace with traffic. This is
a mistake. Your brakes may not have time to cool
between hard stops. Your brakes will wear out much
faster if you do a lot of heavy braking. If you keep pace
with the traffic and allow realistic following distances,
you will eliminate a lot of unnecessary braking.
That means better braking and longer brake life.
If your engine ever stops while you are driving, brake
normally but do not pump your brakes. If you do,
the pedal may get harder to push down. If your engine
stops, you will still have some power brake assist.
But you will use it when you brake. Once the power
assist is used up, it may take longer to stop and
the brake pedal will be harder to push.
4-6
Steering
Power Steering
If you lose power steering assist because the engine
stops or the system is not functioning, you can steer but
it will take much more effort.
Steering Tips
Driving on Curves
It is important to take curves at a reasonable speed.
A lot of the “driver lost control” accidents mentioned on
the news happen on curves. Here is why:
Experienced driver or beginner, each of us is subject to
the same laws of physics when driving on curves.
The traction of the tires against the road surface makes
it possible for the vehicle to change its path when
you turn the front wheels. If there is no traction, inertia
will keep the vehicle going in the same direction. If
you have ever tried to steer a vehicle on wet ice, you
will understand this.
The traction you can get in a curve depends on the
condition of your tires and the road surface, the angle at
which the curve is banked, and your speed. While
you are in a curve, speed is the one factor you
can control.Suppose you are steering through a sharp curve.
Then you suddenly accelerate. Both control
systems — steering and acceleration — have to do
their work where the tires meet the road. Adding
the sudden acceleration can demand too much of those
places. You can lose control. SeeTraction Assist
System (TAS) on page 4-9.
What should you do if this ever happens? Ease up on
the accelerator pedal, steer the vehicle the way you
want it to go, and slow down.
Speed limit signs near curves warn that you should
adjust your speed. Of course, the posted speeds
are based on good weather and road conditions. Under
less favorable conditions you will want to go slower.
If you need to reduce your speed as you approach
a curve, do it before you enter the curve, while your front
wheels are straight ahead.
Try to adjust your speed so you can “drive” through the
curve. Maintain a reasonable, steady speed. Wait to
accelerate until you are out of the curve, and then
accelerate gently into the straightaway.
4-14