2005 CHEVROLET AVEO service

When to Change Engine Oil
If any one of these is true for you, use the short trip/city
maintenance schedule:
•Most trips are less than 5 miles (8 km). This is
particularly important when outside temperatures
are below freezing.
•Most trips include extensive idling, such as frequent
driving in stop-and-go traffic.
•You frequently tow a trailer or use a carrier on top
of your vehicle.
•The vehicle is used for delivery service, police, taxi,
or other commercial application.
Driving under these conditions causes engine oil to
break down sooner. If any one of these is true for your
vehicle, then you need to change your oil and filter
every 3,000 miles (5 000 km) or 3 months — whichever
occurs first.
If none of them is true, use the long trip/highway
maintenance schedule. Change oil and filter every
7,500 miles (12 500 km) or 12 months — whichever
occurs first. Driving a vehicle with a fully warmed engine
under highway conditions will cause engine oil to
break down slower.
What to Do with Used Oil
Used engine oil contains certain elements that may be
unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer.
Do not let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean
your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good
hand cleaner. Wash or properly dispose of clothing or
rags containing used engine oil. See the manufacturer’s
warnings about the use and disposal of oil products.
Used oil can be a threat to the environment. If you
change your own oil, be sure to drain all the oil from the
filter before disposal. Never dispose of oil by putting it
in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or
into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it
by taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have
a problem properly disposing of your used oil, ask
your dealer, a service station or a local recycling center
for help.
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SeeUsing the Maintenance Schedule on page 6-4for
replacement intervals.
{CAUTION:
Operating the engine with the air cleaner/lter
off can cause you or others to be burned.
The air cleaner not only cleans the air; it helps
to stop ame if the engine backres. If it is
not there and the engine backres, you could
be burned. Do not drive with it off, and be
careful working on the engine with the air
cleaner/lter off.
Notice:If the air cleaner/lter is off, a backre
can cause a damaging engine re. And, dirt
can easily get into your engine, which will damage
it. Always have the air cleaner/lter in place
when you are driving.
Automatic Transaxle Fluid
When to Check Automatic Transaxle
Fluid
Check your automatic transaxle fluid level at least
twice a year. Add fluid if needed. SeeAt Least Twice
a Year on page 6-19.
How to Check Automatic Transaxle
Fluid
Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may
choose to have this done at the dealership service
department.
If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions
here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick.
Notice:Too much or too little uid can damage
the transaxle. Too much can mean that some of
the uid could come out and fall on hot engine
or exhaust system parts, starting a re. Too little
uid could cause the transaxle to overheat.
Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check
the transaxle uid.
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How to Add Automatic Transaxle Fluid
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what
kind of transaxle fluid to use. SeePart D: Recommended
Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-25.
If the fluid level is low, add only enough of the proper
fluid to bring the level into the area between the
two dimples in the hot range on the dipstick.
1. Pull out the dipstick.
2. Using a long-neck funnel, add enough fluid at
the dipstick hole to bring it to the proper level.
It does not take much fluid, generally less than
one pint (0.5 L). Do not overfill.
Notice:Use of the incorrect automatic transaxle
uid may damage your vehicle, and the damages
may not be covered by your warranty. Always
use the automatic transaxle uid listed in
Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants
on page 6-25.
3. After adding fluid, recheck the fluid level as
described under “How to Check Automatic
Transaxle Fluid,” earlier in this section.
4. When the correct fluid level is obtained, push
the dipstick back in all the way.
Manual Transaxle Fluid
It is not necessary to check the transaxle fluid level.
A transaxle fluid leak is the only reason for fluid loss.
If a leak occurs, take the vehicle to the dealership
service department and have it repaired as soon as
possible. SeePart D: Recommended Fluids and
Lubricants on page 6-25for the proper fluid to use.
Hydraulic Clutch
There is one reservoir for both the brake and the
hydraulic clutch fluid. SeeBrakes on page 5-32for
more information.
The hydraulic clutch linkage in your vehicle is
self-adjusting. The master cylinder reservoir is filled
with hydraulic fluid.
A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem.
Have the system inspected and repaired.
When to Check and What to Use
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine
how often you should check the fluid level in your
master cylinder reservoir and for the proper fluid.
SeePart B: Owner Checks and Services on page 6-18
andPart D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants
on page 6-25.
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Notice:If your engine catches re because you
keep driving with no coolant, your vehicle can
be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be
covered by your warranty.
If No Steam Is Coming From Your
Engine
If you get an engine overheat warning, but see or
hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious.
Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you:
•Climb a long hill on a hot day.
•Stop after high-speed driving.
•Idle for long periods in traffic.
If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam,
try this for a minute or so:
1. In heavy traffic, let the engine idle in NEUTRAL (N)
while stopped. If it is safe to do so, pull off the road,
shift to PARK (P) or NEUTRAL (N) and let the
engine idle.
2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan
speed and open the windows as necessary.If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can
drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes.
If the warning does not come back on, you can drive
normally.
If the warning continues and you have not stopped, pull
over, stop, and park your vehicle right away.
If there is still no sign of steam, you can idle the engine
for three minutes while you are parked. If you still
have the warning,turn off the engine and get everyone
out of the vehicleuntil it cools down.
You may decide not to lift the hood, but to get service
help right away.
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{CAUTION:
Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine
parts, can be very hot. Do not touch them.
If you do, you can be burned.
Do not run the engine if there is a leak. If you
run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That
could cause an engine re, and you could be
burned. Get any leak xed before you drive
the vehicle.
If there seems to be no leak, with the engine on, check
to see if the electric engine cooling fan is running.
If the engine is overheating, the fan should be running.
If it is not, your vehicle needs service.
Notice:Engine damage from running your engine
without coolant is not covered by your warranty.
How to Add Coolant to the Coolant
Surge Tank
Notice:This vehicle has a specic coolant ll
procedure. Failure to follow this procedure could
cause your engine to overheat and be severely
damaged.
If you have not found a problem yet, check to see if
coolant is visible in the surge tank. If coolant is visible
but the coolant level is not between the MIN and
MAX marks, add a 50/50 mixture ofclean, drinkable
waterand proper coolant at the coolant surge tank,
but be sure the cooling system, including the coolant
surge tank pressure cap, is cool before you do it.
SeeEngine Coolant on page 5-21for more information.
5-27

Brake Wear
Your vehicle has front disc brakes and may have rear
drum brakes or rear disc brakes.
Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make a
high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads are
worn and new pads are needed. The sound may come
and go or be heard all the time your vehicle is moving,
except when you are pushing on the brake pedal firmly.
{CAUTION:
The brake wear warning sound means that soon
your brakes will not work well. That could lead
to an accident. When you hear the brake wear
warning sound, have your vehicle serviced.
Notice:Continuing to drive with worn-out brake
pads could result in costly brake repair.
Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake
squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly
applied. This does not mean something is wrong with
your brakes.
Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help
prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect
brake pads for wear and evenly tighten wheel nuts in
the proper sequence to GM torque specifications.If you have rear drum brakes, they do not have wear
indicators, but if you ever hear a rear brake rubbing
noise, have the rear brake linings inspected immediately.
Also, the rear brake drums should be removed and
inspected each time the tires are removed for rotation or
changing. When you have the front brake pads
replaced, have the rear brakes inspected, too.
Brake linings should always be replaced as complete
axle sets.
SeeBrake System Inspection on page 6-24.
Brake Pedal Travel
See your dealer if the brake pedal does not return to
normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in
pedal travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble.
Brake Adjustment
Every time you make a moderate brake stop, your disc
brakes adjust for wear. If you rarely make a moderate or
heavier stop, then your brakes might not adjust correctly.
If you drive in that way, then — very carefully — make a
few moderate brake stops about every 1,000 miles
(1 600 km), so your brakes will adjust properly.
If your brake pedal goes down farther than normal, your
rear drum brakes may need adjustment. Adjust them by
backing up and firmly applying the brakes a few times.
5-34

{CAUTION:
Fans or other moving engine parts can injure
you badly. Keep your hands away from moving
parts once the engine is running.
5. Check that the jumper cables do not have loose or
missing insulation. If they do, you could get a
shock. The vehicles could be damaged too.
Before you connect the cables, here are some
things you should know. Positive (+) will go
to positive (+) or to a remote positive (+) terminal
if the vehicle has one. Negative (−) will go to a
heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote
negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one.
Do not connect positive (+) to negative (−)oryou
will get a short that would damage the battery
and maybe other parts too. And do not connect the
negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal on
the dead battery because this can cause sparks.
6. Connect the red positive (+) cable to the positive (+)
terminal of the dead battery. Use a remote
positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.
7. Do not let the other end touch metal. Connect it to
the positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a
remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.8. Now connect the black negative (−) cable to the
negative (−) terminal of the good battery. Use a
remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one.
Do not let the other end touch anything until the
next step. The other end of the negative (−) cable
does notgo to the dead battery. It goes to a
heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote
negative (−) terminal on the vehicle with the
dead battery.
9. Connect the other end
of the negative (−)
cable at least 18 inches
(45 cm) away from
the dead battery,
but not near engine
parts that move.
The electrical
connection is just as
good there, and
the chance of sparks
getting back to the
battery is much less.
10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run
the engine for a while.
11. Try to start the vehicle that had the dead battery.
If it will not start after a few tries, it probably needs
service.
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Notice:If the jumper cables are connected or
removed in the wrong order, electrical shorting may
occur and damage the vehicle. The repairs would
not be covered by your warranty. Always connect
and remove the jumper cables in the correct
order, making sure that the cables do not touch
each other or other metal.
A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part or Remote
Negative (–) Terminal
B. Good Battery or Remote Positive (+) and Remote
Negative (−) Terminals
C. Dead Battery or Remote Positive (+) TerminalTo disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles,
do the following:
1. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the
vehicle that had the dead battery.
2. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the
vehicle with the good battery.
3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the
vehicle with the good battery.
4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the
other vehicle.
5. Return the positive (+) terminal cap to its original
position.
Headlamp Aiming
Headlamp aim has been preset at the factory and
should need no further adjustment.
If your vehicle is damaged in an accident, the headlamp
aim may be affected. Aim adjustment to the low-beam
headlamps may be necessary if it is difficult to see
the lane markers (for horizontal aim), or if oncoming
drivers flash their high-beam headlamps at you
(for vertical aim). If you believe your headlamps need
to be re-aimed, we recommend that you take your
vehicle to your dealer for service. Jumper Cable Removal
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