2004 SATURN VUE lock

What is the worst time for this? “Wet ice.” Very cold
snow or ice can be slick and hard to drive on. But wet
ice can be even more trouble because it may offer
the least traction of all. You can get wet ice when it is
about freezing (32°F; 0°C) and freezing rain begins
to fall. Try to avoid driving on wet ice until salt and sand
crews can get there.
Whatever the condition — smooth ice, packed, blowing
or loose snow — drive with caution.Accelerate gently. Try not to break the fragile traction.
If you accelerate too fast, the drive wheels will spin
and polish the surface under the tires even more.
Your anti-lock brakes improve your vehicle’s stability
when you make a hard stop on a slippery road.
Even though you have an anti-lock braking system,
you will want to begin stopping sooner than you
would on dry pavement. SeeBraking on page 4-7.
Allow greater following distance on any
slippery road.
Watch for slippery spots. The road might be
ne until you hit a spot that is covered with ice.
On an otherwise clear road, ice patches may appear
in shaded areas where the sun can not reach:
around clumps of trees, behind buildings or under
bridges. Sometimes the surface of a curve or
an overpass may remain icy when the surrounding
roads are clear. If you see a patch of ice ahead
of you, brake before you are on it. Try not to brake
while you are actually on the ice, and avoid
sudden steering maneuvers.
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{CAUTION:
Snow can trap exhaust gases under your
vehicle. This can cause deadly CO (carbon
monoxide) gas to get inside. CO could
overcome you and kill you. You cannot see
it or smell it, so you might not know it is in
your vehicle. Clear away snow from around
the base of your vehicle, especially any that
is blocking your exhaust pipe. And check
around again from time to time to be sure
snow does not collect there.
Open a window just a little on the side of
the vehicle that is away from the wind.
This will help keep CO out.Run your engine only as long as you must. This
saves fuel. When you run the engine, make it go a
little faster than just idle. That is, push the accelerator
slightly. This uses less fuel for the heat that you get
and it keeps the battery charged. You will need a
well-charged battery to restart the vehicle, and possibly
for signaling later on with your headlamps. Let the
heater run for a while.
Then, shut the engine off and close the window
almost all the way to preserve the heat. Start the
engine again and repeat this only when you feel really
uncomfortable from the cold. But do it as little as
possible. Preserve the fuel as long as you can.
To help keep warm, you can get out of the vehicle
and do some fairly vigorous exercises every half hour
or so until help comes.
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Dinghy Towing (Manual or Five-Speed
Automatic Transaxle*)
To tow your vehicle from the front with all four wheels
on the ground, do the following:
1. Position and attach the vehicle to tow it behind the
recreational vehicle.
2. Turn the ignition key to ACC.
3. Turn fog lamps and all accessories off.
4. If you have the manual transaxle, shift your
transaxle to NEUTRAL and let the engine run
for three minutes, then turn it off.Notice:Towing your vehicle after shifting the
ve-speed automatic transaxle from anything other
than DRIVE (D) to NEUTRAL (N) can cause internal
damage to the automatic transaxle. Always shift the
ve-speed automatic transaxle from DRIVE (D) to
NEUTRAL (N) as the last shift before towing.
5. If you have the automatic ve-speed transaxle, shift
your transaxle from DRIVE (D) to NEUTRAL and let
the engine run for three minutes, then turn it off.
6. Locate and remove the large IGNITION fuse from
the underhood fuse block. See “Instrument Panel
Fuse Block” underFuses and Circuit Breakers
on page 5-98.
Notice:If you tow your vehicle without performing
each of the steps listed under “Dinghy Towing,”
you could damage the automatic transaxle. Be sure
to follow all steps of the dinghy towing procedure
prior to and after towing your vehicle.
Notice:If you tow your vehicle for more than
eight hours per day or at speeds greater than
65 mph (105 km/h), you could damage the automatic
transaxle. The repairs would not be covered
by your warranty. Do not tow your vehicle for
extended periods of time or at speeds greater
than 65 mph (105 km/h).
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Once you have reached your destination, do the
following:
1. Set the parking brake.
2. Shift the transaxle to FIRST (1) for manual
transaxle.
3. Turn the ignition key to LOCK and remove the
key from the ignition.
4. Replace the large IGNITION fuse.
Notice:Too much or too little uid can damage
the transaxle. Be sure that the transaxle uid is
at the proper level before towing with all four wheels
on the ground.
Notice:Don’t tow a vehicle with the front drive
wheels on the ground if one of the front tires is a
compact spare tire. Towing with two different
tire sizes on the front of the vehicle can cause
severe damage to the transaxle.
Dolly Towing (All-Wheel Drive Vehicles)
All-wheel drive vehicles should not be towed from the
front with two wheels on the ground. To properly
tow these vehicles, they should be placed on a platform
trailer with all four wheels off of the ground.
Dolly Towing (Front-Wheel Drive
Vehicles)
To tow your front-wheel drive vehicle from the front with
two wheels on the ground, do the following:
1. Put the front wheels on a dolly.
2. If you have a ve-speed automatic transaxle or
VTi variable transaxle, move the shift lever to
PARK (P). If you have a manual transaxle, move
the shift lever to SECOND (2).
3. Set the parking brake and then remove the key.
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Total Weight on Your Vehicle’s Tires
Be sure your vehicle’s tires are inated to the upper
limit for cold tires. You will nd these numbers on
the Tire-Loading Information label found on the rear
edge of the driver’s side rear door or seeLoading Your
Vehicle on page 4-49. Then be sure you don’t go
over the GVW limit for your vehicle or the Gross Axle
Weight Rating (GAWR), including the weight of the
trailer tongue.
Hitches
It’s important to have the correct hitch equipment.
Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough roads
are a few reasons why you will need the right hitch.
Here are some rules to follow:
The rear bumper on your vehicle is not intended
for hitches. Do not attach rental hitches or
other bumper-type hitches to it. Use only a
frame-mounted hitch that does not attach to the
bumper.
Will you have to make any holes in the body of
your vehicle when you install a trailer hitch? If
you do, then be sure to seal the holes later when
you remove the hitch. If you don’t seal them,
deadly carbon monoxide (CO) from your exhaust
can get into your vehicle. SeeEngine Exhaust
on page 2-27. Dirt and water can, too.
Safety Chains
You should always attach chains between your vehicle
and your trailer. Cross the safety chains under the
tongue of the trailer so that the tongue will not drop
to the road if it becomes separated from the hitch.
Instructions about safety chains may be provided by
the hitch manufacturer or by the trailer manufacturer.
Follow the manufacturer’s recommendation for attaching
safety chains and do not attach them to the bumper.
Always leave just enough slack so you can turn
with your rig. And, never allow safety chains to drag
on the ground.
Trailer Brakes
If your vehicle has anti-lock brakes, don’t try to tap
into your vehicle’s hydraulic brake system. If you do,
both brake systems won’t work well, or at all.
Be sure to read and follow the instructions for the trailer
brakes, so you’ll be able to install, adjust and maintain
them properly.
Driving with a Trailer
Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience.
Before setting out for the open road, you’ll want to get
to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of
handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer.
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Trailer Wiring
Additional wire length has been provided for connecting
trailer wiring to your vehicle. A loop of ve wires is
stored below the jack, which is located on the driver’s
side of the cargo area. The wires are fused in both
the underhood and instrument fuse block. See
“Instrument Panel Fuse Block” and “Underhood Fuse
Block” underFuses and Circuit Breakers on page 5-98.
The wires don’t have a connector and should be
wired to the trailer by a qualied electrical technician.
The technician can use the following chart when
connecting a trailer wiring harness to your vehicle.
Yellow: Left Turn Signal
Brown: Parking Lamps
Light Blue: Stop Lamps
Black: Ground Wire
Dark Green: Right Turn SignalWhen connecting a trailer harness, be sure you leave it
loose enough so the wiring does not bend or break,
but not so loose that it drags on the ground. Store
harness below jack in the cargo area when it is not in
use. Wrap the harness together and tie it neatly so it will
not be damaged.
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To remove the fuel cap, turn it slowly to the left
(counterclockwise). It will require about 1/2 of a turn to
remove the cap. The fuel cap has a spring in it; if
you let go of the cap too soon, it will spring back to the
right (clockwise).
{CAUTION:
If you get fuel on yourself and then something
ignites it, you could be badly burned. Fuel can
spray out on you if you open the fuel cap too
quickly. This spray can happen if your tank is
nearly full, and is more likely in hot weather.
Open the fuel cap slowly and wait for any
“hiss” noise to stop. Then unscrew the cap all
the way.Be careful not to spill fuel. Clean fuel from painted
surfaces as soon as possible. SeeCleaning the Outside
of Your Vehicle on page 5-92.
When you put the fuel cap back on, turn it to the
right (clockwise) about 1/4 of a turn until you hear
three clicks. Make sure you fully install the cap. The
diagnostic system can determine if the fuel cap
has been left off or improperly installed. This would
allow fuel to evaporate into the atmosphere and may
cause the malfunction indicator lamp to come on.
SeeMalfunction Indicator Lamp on page 3-35.
Notice:If you need a new fuel cap, be sure to get
the right type. Your dealer can get one for you.
If you get the wrong type, it may not t properly.
This may cause your malfunction indicator lamp to
light and may damage your fuel tank and emissions
system. SeeMalfunction Indicator Lamp on
page 3-35.
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A. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. SeeEngine Air
Cleaner/Filter on page 5-21.
B. Engine Oil Fill Cap. SeeEngine Oil on page 5-15.
C. Engine Oil Dipstick. SeeEngine Oil on page 5-15.
D. Brake/Clutch Cylinder Fluid. SeeBrakes on
page 5-41andHydraulic Clutch on page 5-28.
E. Engine Compartment Fuse Block. SeeFuses and
Circuit Breakers on page 5-98.F. Battery. SeeBattery on page 5-44.
G. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. SeeWindshield
Washer Fluid on page 5-40.
H. Engine Coolant Recovery Tank. SeeEngine Coolant
on page 5-28.
Before closing the hood, be sure all ller caps are
on properly.
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