2004 SAAB 9-3 ESP

232 Car careWhen to checkCheck your tires once a month or more.
Don’t forget your compact spare tire. It
should be at 60 psi (420 kPa).How to CheckUse a good quality pocket-type gage to
check tire pressure. You can’t tell if your
tires are properly inflated simply by looking
at them. Radial tires may look properly
inflated even when they’re underinflated.
Be sure to put the valve caps back on the
valve stems. They help prevent leaks by
keeping out dirt and moisture.Tire Inspection and RotationTires should be rotated every 7,500 miles
(12 500 km).
Any time you notice unusual wear, rotate
your tires as soon as possible and check
wheel alignment. Also check for damaged
tires or wheels. See “When It Is Time for
New Tires” on page 233 and “Wheel
Replacement” on page 236 for more infor-
mation.
The purpose of regular rotation is to achieve
more uniform wear for all tires on the vehi-
cle. The first rotation is the most important.
When rotating your tires, always use the
correct rotation pattern. Left front tire to left
rear. Left rear tire to right front. Right front to
right rear. Right rear to left front.
Don’t include the compact spare tire in your
tire rotation.After the tires have been rotated, adjust the
front and rear inflation pressures as shown
on the Tire-Loading Information label. Make
certain that all wheel nuts are properly tight-
ened. See page 246.
Flat spottingAll tires get hot, especially on long journeys
or when the car is driven hard. After the car
has been parked with hot tires and the tires
have cooled down, a flat spot can form in the
tire, where it is in contact with the ground.
The same can occur if the car has not been
moved for a long time.
Flat spots can cause vibration that can be
felt through the steering wheel, similar to
that experienced when the wheels need bal-
ancing.
Flat spots of this type disappear once the
tires get hot again, usually after 10–15 miles
(20–25 km) of driving at cruising speed.
WARNING
Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to
which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts
become loose after a time. The wheel
could come off and cause an accident.
When you change a wheel, remove any
rust or dirt from places where the wheel
attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency,
you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do
this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire
brush later, if you need to, to get all the
rust or dirt off. See “Changing a tire” on
page 245.
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234 Car careThe wheels and tires have been carefully
matched to the characteristics of the car and
play a key role in its outstanding roadhold-
ing and handling.
Do not take it for granted that a wheel/tire
combination will work in the best possible
way, just because it can be fitted to the car.
To ensure that the speedometer is as accu-
rate as possible it should be reprogrammed
if wheels of a different dimension are fitted.
Contact a Saab dealer.
Because of front wheel drive, the front tires
tend to wear faster than the rear ones. New
tires should always be fitted in pairs, so that
tires on the same axle have the same
amount of tread.
Store wheels lying flat or hanging – never
standing upright.
NOTICEAlways consult your Saab dealer before
changing the car’s wheels or tires on your
Saab.
Wide wheels and tires with side walls that
are too low can:
 be damaged in potholes, etc.
 cause springs, shock absorbers and
wheel bearings and body mountings
to be overloaded
 affect the function of the Electronic
Stability Program (ESP).
The speed and load limits of the tires
must not be exceeded; see page 239.
Wheels larger than 17" must not be fitted
on the Saab 9-3 for reasons above. The
permissible offset is 1.61 inch (41 mm).
WARNING
Mixing tires could cause you to lose
control while driving. If you mix tires of
different sizes or types (radial and bias-
belted tires), the vehicle may not handle
properly, and you could have a crash.
Using tires of different sizes may also
cause damage to your vehicle. Be sure to
use the same size and type tires on all
wheels. It’s all right to drive with your
compact spare temporarily, it was devel-
oped for use on your vehicle. See
“Compact spare tire” on page 243.
WARNING
If you use bias-ply tires on your vehicle,
the wheel rim flanges could develop
cracks after many miles of driving. A tire
and/or wheel could fail suddenly, causing
a crash. Use only radial-ply tires with the
wheels on your vehicle.
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235 Car care
Uniform Tire Quality GradingQuality grades can be found where applica-
ble on the tire sidewall between tread shoul-
der and maximum section width. For exam-
ple:
Treadwear 200 Traction AA Temperature
A
The following information relates to the
system developed by the United States
National Highway Traffic Safety Administra-
tion, which grades tires by treadwear, trac-
tion and temperature performance. (This
applies only to vehicles sold in the United
States.) The grades are molded on the side-
walls of most passenger car tires. The Uni-
form Tire Quality Grading system does not
apply to deep tread, winter-type snow tires,
space-saver or temporary use spare tires,
tires with nominal rim diameters of 10 to 12
inches (25 to 30 cm), or to some limited-pro-
duction tires.
While the tires available on General Motors
passenger cars and light trucks may vary
with respect to these grades, they must also
conform to federal safety requirements and
additional General Motors Tire Perfor-
mance Criteria (TPC) standards.Treadwear
The treadwear grade is a comparative
rating based on the wear rate of the tire
when tested under controlled conditions on
a specified government test course. For
example, a tire graded 150 would wear one
and a half (1.5) times as well on the govern-
ment course as a tire graded 100. The rela-
tive performance of tires depends upon the
actual conditions of their use, however, and
may depart significantly from the norm due
to variations in driving habits, service prac-
tices and differences in road characteristics
and climate.
Traction – AA, A, B, C
The traction grades, from highest to lowest,
are AA, A, B, and C. Those grades repre-
sent the tire’s ability to stop on wet pave-
ment as measured under controlled condi-
tions on specified government test surfaces
of asphalt and concrete. A tire marked C
may have poor traction performance. Warn-
ing: The traction grade assigned to this tire
is based on straight-ahead braking traction
tests, and does not include acceleration,
cornering, hydroplaning, or peak traction
characteristics.Temperature – A, B, C
The temperature grades are A (the highest),
B, and C, representing the tire’s resistance
to the generation of heat and its ability to dis-
sipate heat when tested under controlled
conditions on a specified indoor laboratory
test wheel. Sustained high temperature can
cause the material of the tire to degenerate
and reduce tire life, and excessive temper-
ature can lead to sudden tire failure. The
grade C corresponds to a level of perfor-
mance which all passenger car tires must
meet under the Federal Motor Vehicle
Safety Standard No. 109. Grades B and A
represent higher levels of performance on
the laboratory test wheel than the minimum
required by law.
Warning: The temperature grade for this tire
is established for a tire that is properly
inflated and not overloaded. Excessive
speed, underinflation, or excessive loading,
either separately or in combination, can
cause heat buildup and possible tire failure.
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237 Car care
Tire Chains
Notice:
If your vehicle does not have
P225/45R17 size tires, use tire chains
only where legal and only when you
must. Use only SAE Class ²S² type
chains that are the proper size for your
tires. Install them on the front tires and
tighten them as tightly as possible with
the ends securely fastened. Drive slowly
and follow the chain manufacturer’s
instructions. If you can hear the chains
contacting your vehicle, stop and
retighten them. If the contact continues,
slow down until it stops. Driving too fast
or spinning the wheels with chains on
will damage your vehicle.If a Tire Goeas Flat
It’s unusual for a tire to “blowout” while
you’re driving, especially if you maintain
your tires properly. If air goes out of a tire,
it’s much more likely to leak out slowly. But
if you should ever have a “blowout”, here are
a few tips about what to expect and what to
do:
If a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a
drag that pulls the vehicle toward that side.
Take your foot off the accelerator pedal and
grip the steering wheel firmly. Steer to main-
tain lane position, and then gently brake to
a stop well out of the traffic lane.
A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts
much like a skid and may require the same
correction you’d use in a skid. In any rear
blowout, remove your foot from the acceler-
ator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by
steering the way you want the vehicle to go.
It may be very bumpy and noisy, but you can
still steer. Gently brake to a stop – well off
the road if possible.
If a tire goes flat, the next part shows how to
use your jacking equipment to change a flat
tire safely.
WARNING
If your vehicle has P225/45 R17 size tires,
don’t use tire chains, there’s not enough
clearance.
Tire chains used on a vehicle without the
proper amount of clearance can cause
damage to the brakes, suspension or
other vehicle parts. The area damaged by
the tire chains could cause you to lose
control of your vehicle and you or others
may be injured in a crash.
Use another type of traction device only if
its manufacturer recommends it for use
on your vehicle and tire size combination
and road conditions. Follow that manu-
facturer’s instructions. To help avoid
damage to your vehicle, drive slowly,
readjust or remove the device if it’s
contacting your vehicle, and don’t spin
your wheels.
If you do find traction devices that will fit,
install them on the front tires.
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240 Car careLoading Your VehicleThis is an example of what your vehicle´s
Tire-Loading Information/Certification label
might look like. It is located on the B-pillar
and shows how much weight your vehicle
may properly carry. The label tells you the
proper size, and recommended inflation
pressures the the tires on your vehicle. It
also gives you important information about
the number of people that can be in your
vehicle and the total weight that you can
carry. This weight is called the Vehicle
Capacity Weight, and includes the weight of
all occupants, cargo and all nonfactory-
installed options.
Tire Terminology and DefinitionsAir Pressure: The amount of air inside the
tire pressing outward on each square inch of
the tire. Air pressure is expressed in pounds
per square inch (psi) or kilopascal (kPa).
Accessory Weight: This means the com-
bined weight of optional accessories, for
example, automatic transmission, power
steering, power brakes, power windows,
power seats, radio and air conditioning.
Aspect Ratio: The relationship of a tire´s
height to its width.
Belt: A rubber coated layer of cords that is
located between the plies and the tread.
Cords may be made from steel or other rein-
forcecing materials.
Bias Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the
ply cords that extend to the beads are laid at
alternate angles substantially less than 90
degrees to the centerline of the tread.
Cold Inflation Pressure: The amount of air
pressure in a tire, measured in pounds per
square inch (psi) or kilopascal (kPa), before
a tire har built up heat from driving. See
“Inflation - Tire Pressure” on page 231.
Curb weight: This means the weight of a
motor vehicle with standard and optional
equipment including the maximum capacity
of fuel, oil and coolant, without passengers
and cargo.DOT Markings: A code molded into the
sidewall of a tire signifying that the tire is in
compliance with the U.S. Department of
Transportation motor vehicle safety stan-
dards. The DOT code includes the Tire
Identification Number (TIN), an alphanu-
meric designator which can also indentify
the tire manufacturer, production plant,
brand and date of production.
GVWR: Gross Vehicle Weight Rating see
“Loading Your Vehicle” on page 240.
GAWR FRT: Gross Axle Weight Rating for
the front axle, see “Loading Your Vehicle”
on page 269.
GAWR RR: Gross Axle Weight Rating for
the rear axle, see “Loading Your Vehicle” on
page 240.
Intended Outboard Sidewall: The side of
an asymmetrical tire that must always face
outward when mounted on a vehicle.
Kilopascal (kPa): The metric unit forair
pressure. There are 6.9 kPa to one psi.
Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire: A tire used
on light duty trucks and some multipurpose
passenger vehicles.
Load Index: An assigned number ranging
from 1 to 279 that corresponds to the load
carrying capacity of a tire.
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245 Car care
Changing a tire
WARNING
 The car jack is designed solely for use
in changing a tire or fitting snow
chains. It must not be used to
support the car during repair work
or servicing.
Never crawl under a car that is
supported only by a jack.
 Special care must be taken if the car is
on a slope - use wedge-shaped wheel
chocks!
 Position chocks, one ahead and one
behind, the wheel that is diagonally
opposite to the one to be changed.
 Switch on the hazard warning lights if
the car is on a road.
 Apply the parking brake and leave the
car in gear (1st or reverse). Automatic
transmission: move the selector lever
to the P position.
 Ensure that everybody is out of the car
before jacking it up.
 Never start the engine while the car is
jacked up.
 If possible, make sure the jack is
standing on a firm, level surface.
 The jack should be stored correctly
under the carpeting in the trunk. If it
lies loose in the car, it could thrown
forward and cause personal injury in
the event of a crash or if the car rolls
over.
 Do not use the jack on a car other than
your Saab 9-3.
 Grit, salt and rust can clog the inner
threads of the wheel bolts if the car has
been driven for several years exclu-
sively with alloy wheels.
If steel wheels are being installed, the
bolt hole threads in the brake hubs
should be cleaned before the thinner
steel wheels are fitted. It may other-
wise not be possible to achieve the
correct clamping force, despite tight-
ening the wheel bolts to the correct
torque.
WARNING
Changing a tire can cause an injury. The
vehicle can slip off the jack and roll over
you or other people. You and they could
be badly injured. Find a level place to
change your tire. To help prevent the
vehicle from moving:
1 Set the parking brake firmly.
2 Put the shift lever in PARK (P) (auto-
matic transmission;
engage 1st gear (manual transmis-
sion).
3 Turn off the engine.
To be even more certain the vehicle won’t
move, you can put blocks at the front and
rear of the tire farthest away from the one
being changed. That would be the tire on
the other side of the vehicle, at the oppo-
site end.
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250 Car careWashingThe bodywork must be washed frequently.
When the car is new, the body should be
washed by hand using plain cold water and
a clean, soft brush through which the water
flows. Automatic carwashes should be
avoided when the car is new.
After 5–6 months the paintwork will have
hardened. To facilitate cleaning, a suitable
detergent can be added to the water, which
should be lukewarm.
Remove any bird droppings without delay,
as these can discolour the paintwork and
prove difficult to polish out. Lay a wad of wet
paper on the patch of dirt and leave it for a
minute or so. It will then be easy to wash off
the dirt.Use a soft cloth moistened with white spirit
to remove splashes of tar or asphalt. Do not
use strong cleaners, as these can dry out
the paintwork.
The underside of the car also needs wash-
ing regularly, and this should be done extra
thoroughly at the end of winter. Clean the
underside of the car by hand if the car is usu-
ally washed in an automatic car wash with-
out special facilities for underbody cleaning.
Never wash or leave the car to dry in the
sun, but wipe it dry with a chamois leather
immediately after washing to avoid smears
and streaks.Clean the inside of window glass using a
proprietary window cleaner. This is particu-
larly important when the car is new, as
upholstery and trim have a tendency to
sweat a little at first.
Keep the glass well polished, as this helps
to prevent misting.
Clean the outside of the windows with Saab
washer fluid. This is especially important if
the car has been washed in an automatic
car wash, as sometimes a wax treatment is
used that can contaminate the windshield
and impair the performance of the wipers.
NOTICEDo not use alcohol-based cleaners on the
plastic lenses of the front or rear lights, as
these can cause a crackling effect on the
lenses.
The door mirrors should be folded in
before the car enters an automatic car
wash.
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253 Car care
Anti-corrosion
treatmentThe entire car undergoes a series of anti-
corrosion processes during production.
These include electrophoretic priming,
PVC-based coating to protect against stone
chip damage and corrosion, and treatment
of body cavities and members with thin,
penetrating rustproofing oil.
In addition, most body panels, such as the
hood, doors and floor pan are galvanized.
The anti-corrosion treatment on some parts
of the car is constantly exposed to wear and
prone to damage. This applies particularly
to the underside of the car and inside the
wheel arches, where grit, road salt and the
like that are thrown up can give rise to cor-
rosion where the underseal has worn away.
The extent of this obviously depends on the
conditions in which the car is used.
Accordingly, make it a habit to hose the
underside of the car often and to inspect the
condition of the underseal. The anti-corro-
sion warranty does not relieve the car owner
of the need to carry out normal maintenance
to the rustproofing and to make good any
damage.Use a hose to clean the underside of the car
thoroughly. After it has dried, use a brush or
spray to apply a viscous anti-corrosion
agent to any worn or damaged areas, to
prevent the onset of corrosion.
Even after the anti-corrosion warranty has
expired, it makes good sense to continue to
maintain the rustproofing.
Seams in the body, especially those in the
doors and trunk lid, are particularly vulnera-
ble to corrosion from the outside, caused by
grit and salt thrown up from the road, and to
corrosion from the inside, largely as a result
of condensation. Keep the seams clean and
at the first sign of any rust, apply a thin, pen-
etrating, anti-corrosion oil. Your Saab
dealer will be pleased to give you further
advice.
What causes rust?Steel body panels of automobiles are sub-
ject to rusting whenever air and moisture
manage to penetrate the protective finish.
Body panels may rust through if the process
is unchecked. Rusting can occur wherever
water is trapped or where the car’s panels
are continuously damp.
Damage to paint and undercoating by
stones, gravel and minor crashes immedi-
ately exposes metal to air and moisture.
Road salts used for de-icing will collect on
the bottom of the car and promote rusting.
Areas of the country with high humidity have
a greater potential for rust problems, espe-
cially where salt is used on roads or there is
moist sea air. Industrial pollution (fallout)
may also damage paint and promote rust-
ing.
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