2004 INFINITI QX56 radiator

ENGINE MAINTENANCE
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3. Open the radiator drain plug at the bottom of the radiator, and
remove the radiator filler cap. This is the only step required
when partially draining the cooling system (radiator only).
CAUTION:
Do not to allow the coolant to contact the drive belts.
4. When draining all of the coolant in the system for engine
removal or repair, it is necessary to drain the cylinder block.
Remove the RH cylinder block drain plug to drain the right bank
and the oil cooler hose to drain the left bank as shown.
5. Remove the reservoir tank to drain the engine coolant, then clean the reservoir tank before installing it.
6. Check the drained coolant for contaminants such as rust, corrosion or discoloration.
If the coolant is contaminated, flush the engine cooling system. Refer to MA-14, "
FLUSHING COOLING
SYSTEM" .
REFILLING ENGINE COOLANT
1. Close the radiator drain plug. Install the reservoir tank, cylinder block drain plug, and the oil cooler hose, if
removed for a total system drain or for engine removal or repair.

The radiator must be completely empty of coolant and water.

Apply sealant to the threads of the cylinder block drain plug. Use Genuine High Performance Thread
Sealant or equivalent. Refer to GI-45, "
RECOMMENDED CHEMICAL PRODUCTS AND SEALANTS" .
2. Set the vehicle heater controls to the full HOT and heater ON position. Turn the vehicle ignition ON with
the engine OFF as necessary to activate the heater mode.
3. Remove the vented reservoir cap and replace it with a non-vented reservoir cap before filling the cooling
system.
WBIA0391E
PBIC0146E
WBIA0392E
Radiator drain plug : Refer to CO-10, "RADIATOR" .
RH cylinder block drain plug : Refer to EM-73, "
CYLINDER BLOCK" .

MA-14
ENGINE MAINTENANCE
Revision: August 20072004 QX56
4. Install the Tool by installing the radiator cap adapter onto the
radiator neck opening. Then attach the gauge body assembly
with the refill tube and the venturi assembly to the radiator cap
adapter.
5. Insert the refill hose into the coolant mixture container that is
placed at floor level. Make sure the ball valve is in the closed
position.

Use Genuine NISSAN Long Life Anti-freeze coolant or equiv-
alent, mixed 50/50 with distilled water or demineralized water.
Refer to MA-11, "
ANTI-FREEZE COOLANT MIXTURE
RATIO" .
6. Install an air hose to the venturi assembly, the air pressure must
be within specification.
CAUTION:
The compressed air supply must be equipped with an air
dryer.
7. The vacuum gauge will begin to rise and there will be an audible hissing noise. During this process open
the ball valve on the refill hose slightly. Coolant will be visible rising in the refill hose. Once the refill hose is
full of coolant, close the ball valve. This will purge any air trapped in the refill hose.
8. Continue to draw the vacuum until the gauge reaches 28 inches
of vacuum. The gauge may not reach 28 inches in high altitude
locations, refer to the vacuum specifications based on the alti-
tude above sea level.
9. When the vacuum gauge has reached the specified amount, disconnect the air hose and wait 20 seconds
to see if the system loses any vacuum. If the vacuum level drops, perform any necessary repairs to the
system and repeat steps 6 - 8 to bring the vacuum to the specified amount. Recheck for any leaks.
10. Place the coolant container (with the refill hose inserted) at the same level as the top of the radiator. Then
open the ball valve on the refill hose so the coolant will be drawn up to fill the cooling system. The cooling
system is full when the vacuum gauge reads zero.
CAUTION:
Do not allow the coolant container to get too low when filling, to avoid air from being drawn into
the cooling system.
11. Remove the Tool from the radiator neck opening and install the radiator cap.
12. Remove the non-vented reservoir cap.
13. Fill the cooling system reservoir tank to the specified level. Run the engine to warm up the cooling system
and top up the system as necessary before installing the vented reservoir cap.
FLUSHING COOLING SYSTEM
1. Drain the water from the engine cooling system. Refer to MA-12, "DRAINING ENGINE COOLANT" .
2. Fill the radiator and the reservoir tank (to the “MAX” line), with water. Reinstall the radiator cap and leave
the vented reservoir cap off.Tool number : KV991J0070 (J-45695)
Cooling system capacity
(with reservoir tank): Refer to MA-10, "
Fluids
and Lubricants" .
Compressed air
supply pressure: 5.7 - 8.5 kPa (5.6 - 8.4 kg/cm
2
, 80 - 120 psi)
LLIA0058E
Altitude above sea level Vacuum gauge reading
0 - 100 m (328 ft) : 28 inches of vacuum
300 m (984 ft) : 27 inches of vacuum
500 m (1,641 ft) : 26 inches of vacuum
1,000 m (3,281 ft) : 24 - 25 inches of vacuum
LLIA0057E

ENGINE MAINTENANCE
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3. Run the engine until it reaches normal operating temperature.
4. Press the engine accelerator two or three times under no-load.
5. Stop the engine and wait until it cools down.
6. Drain the water from the engine cooling system. Refer to MA-12, "
DRAINING ENGINE COOLANT" .
7. Repeat steps 2 through 6 until clear water begins to drain from the radiator.
Checking Fuel LinesELS00107
Inspect the fuel lines and fuel tank for improper mounting, leaks,
cracks, damage, loose connections, chafing, or deterioration.
As necessary, repair or replace any faulty parts.
Changing Fuel FilterELS00108
The fuel filter is part of the fuel level sensor unit, fuel filter and fuel pump assembly. Refer to FL-5, "FUEL
LEVEL SENSOR UNIT, FUEL FILTER AND FUEL PUMP ASSEMBLY" .
WA RN ING:
Before replacing the fuel filter, release the fuel pressure from the fuel system. Refer to EC-46, "
FUEL
PRESSURE RELEASE" .
Changing Engine Air Cleaner FilterELS00109
VISCOUS PAPER TYPE
NOTE:

The viscous paper type filter does not need cleaning between replacement intervals.

Replace the air filter as necessary for required maintenance.
1. Remove the air duct and resonator assembly (inlet).
2. Remove the air cleaner case (upper).
3. Remove the air cleaner filter from the air cleaner case (lower).
4. Install the new air cleaner filter in the air cleaner case (lower).
SM A80 3A
1. Air cleaner case (upper) 2. Air cleaner filter 3. Air cleaner case (lower)
4. Air duct and resonator assembly
LBIA0394E

CHASSIS AND BODY MAINTENANCE
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b. Select “MAIN SIGNALS” in “DATA MONITOR” mode for “A/T” with CONSULT-II.
c. Read out the value of “ATF TEMP 1”.
7. Re-check fluid level at fluid temperatures of approximately 65°C
(149°F) using “HOT” range on A/T fluid level gauge.
CAUTION:

When wiping away the fluid level gauge, always use lint-
free paper, not a cloth one.

To check fluid level, insert the ATF level gauge until the
cap contacts the end of the charging pipe, with the gauge
reversed from the normal attachment conditions as
shown.
8. Check fluid condition.

If fluid is very dark or smells burned, refer to check operation
of A/T. Flush cooling system after repair of A/T.

If ATF contains frictional material (clutches, bands, etc.),
replace radiator and flush cooler line using cleaning solvent
and compressed air after repair of A/T. Refer to CO-10,
"RADIATOR" and AT-15, "A/T Fluid Cooler Cleaning" .
9. Install the removed ATF level gauge into the fluid charging pipe.
Changing A/T FluidELS001JN
1. Increase ATF temperature by 80°C (176°F) once.
2. Stop the engine.
3. Remove the tightening bolt for the ATF level gauge.
4. Drain ATF from drain plug and refill with new ATF. Always refill same volume with drained fluid.

To replace the ATF, pour in new fluid at the charging pipe with the engine idling and at the same time
drain the old fluid from the radiator cooler hose return side.

When the color of the fluid coming out is about the same as the color of the new fluid, the replacement
is complete. The amount of new transmission fluid to use should be 30 to 50% increase of the stipu-
lated amount.
CAUTION:

Use only specified ATF fluid. Do not mix with other fluid.

Using ATF other than the specified ATF fluid will cause deterioration in driveability and auto-
matic transmission durability, and may damage the automatic transmission, which is not cov-
ered by the warranty.

When filling ATF, take care not to splash any heat generating parts such as the exhaust.
5. Increase ATF temperature by 80°C (176°F) once.
6. Check fluid level and condition. Refer to MA-21, "
Checking A/T Fluid" . If fluid is still dirty, repeat step 2.
through 5.
7. Install the removed ATF level gauge in the fluid charging pipe.
WLIA0014E
Level gauge bolt : Refer to AT-13, "A/T FLUID" .
SCIA1684E
ATF fluid capacity and specification : Refer to MA-10, "Fluids and Lubricants" .
Drain plug : Refer to AT-13, "
A/T FLUID" .
Level gauge bolt : Refer to AT- 1 3 , "
A/T FLUID" .

SQUEAK AND RATTLE TROUBLE DIAGNOSES
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TRUNK
Trunk noises are often caused by a loose jack or loose items put into the trunk by the owner.
In addition look for:
1. Trunk lid bumpers out of adjustment
2. Trunk lid striker out of adjustment
3. The trunk lid torsion bars knocking together
4. A loose license plate or bracket
Most of these incidents can be repaired by adjusting, securing or insulating the item(s) or component(s) caus-
ing the noise.
SUNROOF/HEADLINING
Noises in the sunroof/headlining area can often be traced to one of the following:
1. Sunroof lid, rail, linkage or seals making a rattle or light knocking noise
2. Sun visor shaft shaking in the holder
3. Front or rear windshield touching headliner and squeaking
Again, pressing on the components to stop the noise while duplicating the conditions can isolate most of these
incidents. Repairs usually consist of insulating with felt cloth tape.
OVERHEAD CONSOLE (FRONT AND REAR)
Overhead console noises are often caused by the console panel clips not being engaged correctly. Most of
these incidents are repaired by pushing up on the console at the clip locations until the clips engage.
In addition look for:
1. Loose harness or harness connectors.
2. Front console map/reading lamp lens loose.
3. Loose screws at console attachment points.
SEATS
When isolating seat noise it's important to note the position the seat is in and the load placed on the seat when
the noise is present. These conditions should be duplicated when verifying and isolating the cause of the
noise.
Cause of seat noise include:
1. Headrest rods and holder
2. A squeak between the seat pad cushion and frame
3. The rear seatback lock and bracket
These noises can be isolated by moving or pressing on the suspected components while duplicating the con-
ditions under which the noise occurs. Most of these incidents can be repaired by repositioning the component
or applying urethane tape to the contact area.
UNDERHOOD
Some interior noise may be caused by components under the hood or on the engine wall. The noise is then
transmitted into the passenger compartment.
Causes of transmitted underhood noise include:
1. Any component mounted to the engine wall
2. Components that pass through the engine wall
3. Engine wall mounts and connectors
4. Loose radiator mounting pins
5. Hood bumpers out of adjustment
6. Hood striker out of adjustment
These noises can be difficult to isolate since they cannot be reached from the interior of the vehicle. The best
method is to secure, move or insulate one component at a time and test drive the vehicle. Also, engine RPM
or load can be changed to isolate the noise. Repairs can usually be made by moving, adjusting, securing, or
insulating the component causing the noise.

SE-8
SQUEAK AND RATTLE TROUBLE DIAGNOSES
Revision: August 20072004 QX56
TRU NK
Trunk noises are often caused by a loose jack or loose items put into the trunk by the owner.
In addition look for:
1. Trunk lid bumpers out of adjustment
2. Trunk lid striker out of adjustment
3. The trunk lid torsion bars knocking together
4. A loose license plate or bracket
Most of these incidents can be repaired by adjusting, securing or insulating the item(s) or component(s) caus-
ing the noise.
SUNROOF/HEADLINER
Noises in the sunroof/headliner area can often be traced to one of the following:
1. Sunroof lid, rail, linkage or seals making a rattle or light knocking noise
2. Sunvisor shaft shaking in the holder
3. Front or rear windshield touching headliner and squeaking
Again, pressing on the components to stop the noise while duplicating the conditions can isolate most of these
incidents. Repairs usually consist of insulating with felt cloth tape.
OVERHEAD CONSOLE (FRONT AND REAR)
Overhead console noises are often caused by the console panel clips not being engaged correctly. Most of
these incidents are repaired by pushing up on the console at the clip locations until the clips engage.
In addition look for:
1. Loose harness or harness connectors.
2. Front console map/reading lamp lense loose.
3. Loose screws at console attachment points.
SEATS
When isolating seat noise it is important to note the position the seat is in and the load placed on the seat
when the noise is present. These conditions should be duplicated when verifying and isolating the cause of
the noise.
Cause of seat noise include:
1. Headrest rods and holder
2. A squeak between the seat pad cushion and frame
3. The rear seatback lock and bracket
These noises can be isolated by moving or pressing on the suspected components while duplicating the con-
ditions under which the noise occurs. Most of these incidents can be repaired by repositioning the component
or applying urethane tape to the contact area.
UNDERHOOD
Some interior noise may be caused by components under the hood or on the engine wall. The noise is then
transmitted into the passenger compartment.
Causes of transmitted underhood noise include:
1. Any component mounted to the engine wall
2. Components that pass through the engine wall
3. Engine wall mounts and connectors
4. Loose radiator mounting pins
5. Hood bumpers out of adjustment
6. Hood striker out of adjustment
These noises can be difficult to isolate since they cannot be reached from the interior of the vehicle. The best
method is to secure, move or insulate one component at a time and test drive the vehicle. Also, engine RPM
or load can be changed to isolate the noise. Repairs can usually be made by moving, adjusting, securing, or
insulating the component causing the noise.