2004 CHRYSLER VOYAGER wheels

INSTALLATION
CAUTION: The following sequence must be fol-
lowed when tightening the pin nuts on the rear
hanger for the rear leaf spring. First the hanger pin
nuts must be tightened to the specified torque.
Then tighten the retaining bolts for the inner to
outer half of the spring hanger to the specified
torque. This sequence must be followed to avoid
bending the spring hanger.
(1) For installation, reverse removal procedure. Do
not tighten rear spring shackle nuts fully until vehi-
cle is lowered and the full vehicle weight is applied
to the rear wheels. Tighten rear spring mount bolts
to 61 N´m (45 ft. lbs.). Tighten shackle nuts to 61
N´m (45 ft. lbs.).
STABILIZER BAR
DESCRIPTION
Some front-wheel-drive models use a stabilizer bar.
It is mounted behind the rear axle. All-wheel-drive
models use a stabilizer bar that is mounted in front
of the rear axle.
The stabilizer bar interconnects both sides of the
rear axle and attaches to the rear frame rails using 2
rubber isolated link arms.
Both type stabilizer bars have the same basic com-
ponents. Attachment to the rear axle tube, and rear
frame rails is through rubber-isolated bushings.
The 2 rubber isolated links are connected to the
rear frame rails by brackets. These brackets are
bolted to the bottom of the frame rails.
OPERATION
Jounce and rebound movements affecting one
wheel are partially transmitted to the opposite wheel
to reduce body roll.
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - AWD
(1) Raise vehicle. (Refer to LUBRICATION &
MAINTENANCE/HOISTING - STANDARD PROCE-
DURE)
(2) Remove the bolts securing the stabilizer bar to
links on each end of the bar.
(3) While holding the stabilizer bar in place,
remove the bolts that attach the stabilizer bar bush-
ing retainers to the rear axle.
(4) Remove the stabilizer bar from the vehicle.
(5) If the links need to be serviced, remove the
upper link arm to bracket bolt. Then remove link
arm from frame rail attaching bracket.
REMOVAL - FWD
(1) Raise vehicle. See Hoisting in Lubrication and
Maintenance.
(2) Remove the bolts securing the stabilizer bar to
links on each side of bar.
(3) While holding the stabilizer bar in place,
remove the bolts that attach the stabilizer bar bush-
ing retainers to the rear axle.
(4) Remove the stabilizer bar from the vehicle.
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - AWD
(1) Install the stabilizer bar on the rear axle.
(2) Install bushing retainer bolts. Do not tighten at
this time.
(3) Install bolts connecting links to stabilizer bar.
Do not tighten at this time.
(4) Lower the vehicle so that the full weight of the
vehicle is on all four tires. With the vehicle at its
curb height, tighten the following bolts to the torques
listed:
²Stabilizer bar bushing retainer-to-axle bracket
bolts Ð 61 N´m (45 ft. lbs.)
²Stabilizer bar-to-link bolts Ð 61 N´m (45 ft. lbs.)
INSTALLATION - FWD
(1) Lift the stabilizer bar onto the rear axle and
install the two retainer mounting bolts. DO NOT
TIGHTEN.
(2) Install the bolts attaching the stabilizer bar
links to the stabilizer bar. DO NOT TIGHTEN.
Fig. 40 Rear Spring Mount
1 - LEAF SPRING MOUNT
RSREAR SUSPENSION2-45
SPRING MOUNTS - REAR (Continued)

(3) Lower the vehicle so that the full weight of the
vehicle is on all four tires. With the vehicle at its
curb height, tighten the following bolts to the torques
listed:
²Stabilizer bar bushing retainer-to-axle bracket
bolts Ð 61 N´m (45 ft. lbs.)
²Stabilizer bar-to-link Ð 61 N´m (45 ft. lbs.)
TRACK BAR
DESCRIPTION
On front-wheel-drive applications of this vehicle
that are equipped with single leaf rear springs, a
track bar is used on the rear axle (Fig. 1).
The track bar connects the rear axle to the frame/
body of the vehicle. The track bar is isolated from the
body of the vehicle by an isolator bushing located in
each end of the track bar.
OPERATION
The track bar prevents excessive side-to-side move-
ment of the rear axle. The track bar is used to keep
the location of the axle in the correct position for
optimum handling and control of the vehicle.
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the nut and bolt mounting the track
bar to the rear axle (Fig. 41).
(2) Remove the nut and bolt attaching the track
bar to the track bar mount on the body of the vehicle.
Remove the track bar from the track bar mount.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the track bar first into the body mount
for the track bar (Fig. 42). Install the track bar bolt
with the head of the bolt facing toward the rear of
the vehicle (Fig. 43). Do not tighten.
(2) Install the track bar into its mounting bracket
on the rear axle (Fig. 41). Install the track bar bolt
with the head of the bolt facing toward the rear of
the vehicle. Do not tighten.
(3) Lower the vehicle to the ground until the full
weight of the vehicle is supported by the wheels.
Tighten both track bar attaching bolts to a torque of
95 N´m (70 ft. lbs.).
Fig. 41 Track Bar Mounting To Axle (Typical)
1 - LOWER TRACK BAR BOLT INSTALLATION
Fig. 42 Track Bar Installation (Typical)
1 - TRACK BAR REPLACEMENT
Fig. 43 Track Bar Bolt Installation
1 - TRACK BAR BOLT
2 - 46 REAR SUSPENSIONRS
STABILIZER BAR (Continued)

WHEEL ALIGNMENT
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
WHEEL ALIGNMENT
DESCRIPTION - WHEEL ALIGNMENT.......47
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - SUSPENSION
AND STEERING......................50
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - WHEEL
ALIGNMENT.........................52STANDARD PROCEDURE - CURB HEIGHT
MEASUREMENT......................55
SPECIFICATIONS
WHEEL ALIGNMENT...................56
WHEEL ALIGNMENT
DESCRIPTION - WHEEL ALIGNMENT
Vehicle wheel alignment is the positioning of all
interrelated front and rear suspension angles. These
angles affect the handling and steering of the vehicle
when it is in motion. Proper wheel alignment is
essential for efficient steering, good directional stabil-
ity, and proper tire wear.
The method of checking a vehicle's front and rear
wheel alignment varies depending on the manufac-
turer and type of equipment used. The manufactur-
er's instructions should always be followed to ensure
accuracy of the alignment, except when
DaimlerChrysler Corporation's wheel alignment spec-
ifications differ.
On this vehicle, the suspension angles that can be
adjusted are as follows:
²Front Camber (with camber bolt package and
standard procedure)
²Front Toe
Check the wheel alignment and make all wheel
alignment adjustments with the vehicle standing at
its proper curb height specification. Curb height is
the normal riding height of the vehicle. It is mea-
sured from a certain point on the vehicle to the
ground or a designated area while the vehicle is sit-
ting on a flat, level surface. Refer to Curb Height
Measurement in this section for additional informa-
tion.
Typical wheel alignment angles and measurements
are described in the following paragraphs.
CAMBER
Camber is the inward or outward tilt of the top of
the tire and wheel assembly (Fig. 1). Camber is mea-
sured in degrees of angle relative to a true vertical
line. Camber is a tire wearing angle.
²Excessive negative camber will cause tread wear
at the inside of the tire.²Excessive positive camber will cause tread wear
on the outside of the tire.
CROSS CAMBER
Cross camber is the difference between left and
right camber. To achieve the cross camber reading,
subtract the right side camber reading from the left.
Fig. 1 Camber
1 - WHEELS TILTED OUT AT TOP
2 - WHEELS TILTED IN AT TOP
RSWHEEL ALIGNMENT2-47

For example, if the left camber is +0.3É and the right
camber is 0.0É, the cross camber would be +0.3É.
CASTER
Caster is the forward or rearward tilt of the steer-
ing knuckle in reference to the position of the upper
and lower ball joints. Caster is measured in degrees
of angle relative to a true vertical center line. This
line is viewed from the side of the tire and wheel
assembly (Fig. 2).
²Forward tilt (upper ball joint ahead of lower)
results in a negative caster angle.
²Rearward tilt (upper ball joint trailing lower)
results in a positive caster angle.
Although caster does not affect tire wear, a caster
imbalance between the two front wheels may cause
the vehicle to lead to the side with the least positive
caster.
CROSS CASTER
Cross caster is the difference between left and
right caster.
TOE
Toe is the inward or outward angle of the wheels
as viewed from above the vehicle (Fig. 3).
²Toe-in is produced when the front edges of the
wheels on the same axle are closer together than the
rear edges.²Toe-out is produced when the front edges of the
wheels on the same axle are farther apart than the
rear edges.
Toe-in and toe-out can occur at the front wheels
and the rear wheels.
Toe is measured in degrees or inches. The mea-
surement identifies the amount that the front of the
wheels point inward (toe-in) or outward (toe-out). Toe
is measured at the spindle height. Zero toe means
the front and rear edges of the wheels on the same
axle are equally distant.
TOE-OUT ON TURNS
Toe-out on turns is the relative positioning of the
front wheels while steering through a turn (Fig. 4).
This compensates for each front wheel's turning
radius. As the vehicle encounters a turn, the out-
board wheel must travel in a larger radius circle
than the inboard wheel. The steering system is
designed to make each wheel follow its particular
radius circle. To accomplish this, the front wheels
must progressively toe outward as the steering is
Fig. 2 Caster
Fig. 3 Toe
1 - TOE-IN
2 - TOE-OUT
2 - 48 WHEEL ALIGNMENTRS
WHEEL ALIGNMENT (Continued)

THRUST ANGLE
Thrust angle is the averaged direction the rear
wheels are pointing in relation to the vehicle's center
line (Fig. 6). The presence of negative or positive
thrust angle causes the rear tires to track improperly
to the left or right of the front tires (dog tracking).
²Negative thrust angle means the rear tires are
tracking to the left of the front tires.
²Positive thrust angle means the rear tires are
tracking to the right of the front tires.
Improper tracking can cause undue tire wear, a
lead or pull and a crooked steering wheel. Excessive
thrust angle can usually be corrected by adjusting
the rear wheel toe so that each wheel has one-half of
the total toe measurement.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - SUSPENSION AND STEERING
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
Front End Whine On Turns 1. Defective wheel bearing 1. Replace wheel bearing
2. Incorrect wheel alignment 2. Check and reset wheel alignment
3. Worn tires 3. Replace tires
Front End Growl Or
Grinding On Turns1. Defective wheel bearing 1. Replace wheel bearing
2. Engine mount grounding 2. Check for motor mount hitting frame
rail and reposition engine as required
3. Worn or broken C/V joint 3. Replace C/V joint
4. Loose wheel lug nuts 4. Verify wheel lug nut torque
5. Incorrect wheel alignment 5. Check and reset wheel alignment
6. Worn tires 6. Replace tires
7. Front strut pin in upper strut mount 7. Replace the front strut upper mount
and bearing
Front End Clunk Or Snap
On Turns1. Loose lug nuts 1. Verify wheel lug nut torque
2. Worn or broken C/V joint 2. Replace C/V joint
3. Worn or loose tie rod 3. Tighten or replace tie rod end
4. Worn or loose ball joint 4. Tighten or replace ball joint
5. Worn/loose control arm bushing 5. Replace control arm bushing
6. Loose stabilizer bar. 6. Tighten stabilizer bar to specified
torque
7. Loose strut mount to body
attachment7. Tighten strut attachment to specified
torque
8. Loose crossmember bolts 8. Tighten crossmember bolts to
specified torque
Fig. 6 Thrust Angle
2 - 50 WHEEL ALIGNMENTRS
WHEEL ALIGNMENT (Continued)

SHUDDER OR VIBRATION DURING ACCELERATION
This problem could be a result of:
²A worn or damaged half shaft inner tripod joint.
²A sticking tripod joint spider assembly (inner tri-
pod joint only).
²Improper wheel alignment. (Refer to 2 - SUS-
PENSION/WHEEL ALIGNMENT - STANDARD
PROCEDURE)
VIBRATION AT HIGHWAY SPEEDS
This problem could be a result of:
²Foreign material (mud, etc.) packed on the back-
side of the wheel(s).
²Out of balance tires or wheels. (Refer to 22 -
TIRES/WHEELS - STANDARD PROCEDURE)
²Improper tire and/or wheel runout. (Refer to 22 -
TIRES/WHEELS - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING)
REMOVAL
(1) Raise vehicle.
(2) Remove the cotter pin and nut lock (Fig. 2)
from the end of the half shaft.
(3) Remove the wheel and tire assembly from the
vehicle. (Refer to 22 - TIRES/WHEELS - REMOVAL)
(4) Remove the wave washer (Fig. 3) from the end
of the half shaft.(5) With the vehicle's brakes applied to keep hub
from turning,loosen and removethe half shaft
nut.
(6) Remove the two front disc brake caliper
adapter to steering knuckle attaching bolts (Fig. 4).
Fig. 1 Unequal Length Half Shaft System
1 - STUB AXLE 8 - OUTER C/V JOINT
2 - OUTER C/V JOINT 9 - RIGHT HALFSHAFT
3 - OUTER C/V JOINT BOOT 10 - INNER TRIPOD JOINT BOOT
4 - TUNED RUBBER DAMPER WEIGHT 11 - INNER TRIPOD JOINT
5 - INTERCONNECTING SHAFT 12 - INNER TRIPOD JOINT
6 - OUTER C/V JOINT BOOT 13 - INNER TRIPOD JOINT BOOT
7 - STUB AXLE 14 - INTERCONNECTING SHAFT LEFT HALFSHAFT
Fig. 2 Half Shaft Retaining Nut
1 - HUB/BEARING
2 - NUT LOCK
3 - COTTER PIN
4 - STUB AXLE
3 - 2 HALF SHAFT - FRONTRS
HALF SHAFT - FRONT (Continued)

HALF SHAFT - REAR
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
HALF SHAFT - REAR
DESCRIPTION.........................13
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HALF SHAFT....13
REMOVAL.............................13
INSTALLATION.........................14SPECIFICATIONS - HALF SHAFT - FRONT . . . 15
CV BOOT - INNER/OUTER
REMOVAL.............................15
INSTALLATION.........................17
HALF SHAFT - REAR
DESCRIPTION
The inner and outer joints of both half shaft
assemblies are tripod joints. The tripod joints are
true constant velocity (CV) joint assemblies, which
allow for the changes in half shaft length through
the jounce and rebound travel of the rear suspension.
On vehicles equipped with ABS brakes, the outer
CV joint is equipped with a tone wheel used to deter-
mine vehicle speed for ABS brake operation.
The inner tripod joint of both half shafts is bolted
rear differential assembly's output flanges. The outer
CV joint has a stub shaft that is splined into the
wheel hub and retained by a steel hub nut.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HALF SHAFT
VEHICLE INSPECTION
(1) Check for grease in the vicinity of the inboard
tripod joint and outboard CV joint; this is a sign of
inner or outer joint seal boot or seal boot clamp dam-
age.
NOISE AND/OR VIBRATION IN TURNS
A clicking noise and/or a vibration in turns could
be caused by one of the following conditions:
²Damaged outer CV or inner tripod joint seal
boot or seal boot clamps. This will result in the loss
and/or contamination of the joint grease, resulting in
inadequate lubrication of the joint.
²Noise may also be caused by another component
of the vehicle coming in contact with the half shafts.
CLUNKING NOISE DURING ACCELERATION
This noise may be a result of one of the following
conditions:
²A torn seal boot on the inner or outer joint of the
half shaft assembly.
²A loose or missing clamp on the inner or outer
joint of the half shaft assembly.
²A damaged or worn half shaft CV joint.
SHUDDER OR VIBRATION DURING ACCELERATION
This problem could be a result of:
²A worn or damaged half shaft inner tripod joint.
²A sticking tripod joint spider assembly (inner tri-
pod joint only).
²Improper wheel alignment. (Refer to 2 - SUS-
PENSION/WHEEL ALIGNMENT - STANDARD
PROCEDURE)
VIBRATION AT HIGHWAY SPEEDS
This problem could be a result of:
²Foreign material (mud, etc.) packed on the back-
side of the wheel(s).
²Out of balance tires or wheels. (Refer to 22 -
TIRES/WHEELS - STANDARD PROCEDURE)
²Improper tire and/or wheel runout. (Refer to 22 -
TIRES/WHEELS - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING)
REMOVAL
(1) Lift vehicle on hoist so that the wheels hang
freely.
(2) Remove rear wheel.
(3) Remove cotter pin, nut lock, and spring washer
(Fig. 1).
Fig. 1 Cotter Pin, Nut Lock, And Spring Washer
1 - HUB NUT
2 - NUT LOCK
3 - COTTER PIN
4 - SPRING WASHER
RSHALF SHAFT - REAR3-13

(4) Remove hub nut and washer.
CAUTION: The half shaft outer CV joint, when
installed, acts as a bolt and secures the hub/bear-
ing assembly. If the vehicle is to be supported or
moved on its wheels, install and torque a bolt
through the hub. This will ensure that the hub/bear-
ing assembly cannot loosen.
(5) Remove inner half shaft retaining bolts (Fig. 2).
(6) The half shaft is spring loaded. Compress inner
half shaft joint slightly and pull downward to clear
rear differential output flange. Then pull half shaft
assembly outward to remove (Fig. 3).INSTALLATION
(1) Install the outer CV joint stub shaft through
the hub bearing (Fig. 4).
(2) The half shaft is spring loaded. Compress inner
half shaft joint slightly and push upward until the
inner CV joint flange engages the rear differential
output flange.
(3) Install the inner half shaft retaining bolts (Fig.
5). Torque the bolts to 61 N´m (45 ft.lbs.).
(4) Install the half shaft washer and hub nut.
Torque the hub nut to 244 N´m (180 ft.lbs.).
Fig. 2 Inner Half Shaft Bolts
1 - SHAFT
2 - FLANGE
Fig. 3 Half Shaft Removal
1 - BRAKE BACKING PLATE
2 - HALF SHAFT
Fig. 4 Half Shaft Installation
1 - BRAKE BACKING PLATE
2 - HALF SHAFT
Fig. 5 Inner Half Shaft Bolts
1 - SHAFT
2 - FLANGE
3 - 14 HALF SHAFT - REARRS
HALF SHAFT - REAR (Continued)