2004 CHRYSLER VOYAGER air condition

(2) Install camshaft sprockets. Hold sprockets with
Special Tool 6848 and tighten center bolt to 101 N´m
(75 ft. lbs.) (Fig. 112).
(3) Install timing belt idler pulley and tighten
mounting bolt to 61 N´m (45 ft. lbs.) (Fig. 113).
(4) Install timing belt (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT AND SPROCKETS -
INSTALLATION).
(5) Install engine mount bracket and tighten bolts
to 61 N´m (45 ft. lbs.) (Fig. 111).
(6) Install front covers.
TIMING BELT AND
SPROCKET(S)
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - TIMING BELT
(1) Remove air cleaner upper cover, housing, and
clean air tube.
(2) Remove make-up air hose from cylinder head
cover.
(3) Raise vehicle on hoist.
(4) Remove right front wheel.
(5) Remove right inner splash shield.(6) Remove accessory drive belts (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
REMOVAL).
(7) Remove crankshaft vibration damper (Refer to
9 - ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/VIBRATION
DAMPER - REMOVAL).
(8) Remove air conditioner/generator belt tensioner
and pulley assembly (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ACCES-
SORY DRIVE/BELT TENSIONERS - REMOVAL).
(9) Remove timing belt lower front cover bolts and
remove cover (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/
TIMING BELT COVER(S) - REMOVAL).
(10) Lower vehicle.
(11) Remove bolts attaching timing belt upper
front cover and remove cover (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT COVER(S) -
REMOVAL).
(12) Remove right engine mount (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE MOUNTING/RIGHT MOUNT -
REMOVAL).
(13) Remove engine mount bracket (Fig. 115).
Fig. 114 Rear Timing Belt Cover Fasteners
1 - M6 BOLTS - 12 N´m (105 in. lbs.)
2 - M8 BOLTS - 28 N´m (250 in. lbs.)
3 - TIMING BELT TENSIONER
Fig. 115 Engine Mount Bracket
1 - ENGINE MOUNT BRACKET
2 - BOLTS - 61 N´m (45 ft. lbs.)
RSENGINE 2.4L9-63
TIMING BELT COVER(S) (Continued)

(8) Check if the spring tang is within the tolerance
window (Fig. 125). If the spring tang is within the
tolerance window, the installation process is complete
and nothing further is required. If the spring tang is
not within the tolerance window, repeat Steps 5
through 7.
(9) Install engine mount bracket to engine (Fig.
115).
(10) Install timing belt front covers and bolts
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING
BELT COVER(S) - INSTALLATION).
(11) Install air conditioning/generator belt ten-
sioner and pulley (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ACCES-
SORY DRIVE/BELT TENSIONERS -
INSTALLATION).(12) Install right engine mount (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE MOUNTING/RIGHT MOUNT -
INSTALLATION).
(13) Install crankshaft vibration damper (Refer to
9 - ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/VIBRATION
DAMPER - INSTALLATION).
(14) Install accessory drive belts (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
INSTALLATION).
(15) Install drive belt splash shield.
(16) Install right front wheel.
(17) Connect make-up air hose to cylinder head
cover.
(18) Install air cleaner housing, upper cover, and
clean air tube.
Fig. 124 Crankshaft and Camshaft Timing
1 - CAMSHAFT TIMING MARKS
2 - CRANKSHAFT TDC MARKS
3 - TRAILING EDGE OF SPROCKET TOOTH
Fig. 125 Timing Belt Tension Verification
1 - SPRING TANG
2 - TOLERANCE WINDOW
RSENGINE 2.4L9-67
TIMING BELT AND SPROCKET(S) (Continued)

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE DIAGNOSIS - PERFORMANCE
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION
ENGINE WILL NOT START 1. Weak battery. 1. Test battery. Charge or replace
as necessary. (Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/BATTERY SYSTEM -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING)
2. Corroded or loose battery
connections.2. Clean and tighten battery
connections. Apply a coat of light
mineral grease to terminals.
3. Faulty starter. 3. Test starting system. (Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/STARTING -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING)
4. Faulty coil(s) or control unit. 4. Test and replace as needed.
(Refer to Appropriate Diagnostic
Information)
5. Incorrect spark plug gap. 5. Set gap. (Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/IGNITION CONTROL
- SPECIFICATIONS)
6. Contamination in fuel system. 6. Clean system and replace fuel
filter.
7. Faulty fuel pump. 7. Test fuel pump and replace as
needed. (Refer to Appropriate
Diagnostic Information)
8. Incorrect engine timing. 8. Check for a skipped timing
belt/chain.
ENGINE STALLS OR IDLES
ROUGH1. Idle speed too low. 1. Test minimum air flow. (Refer to
Appropriate Diagnostic Information)
2. Incorrect fuel mixture. 2. (Refer to Appropriate Diagnostic
Information)
3. Intake manifold leakage. 3. Inspect intake manifold, manifold
gasket, and vacuum hoses.
4. Faulty ignition coil(s). 4. Test and replace as necessary.
(Refer to Appropriate Diagnostic
Information)
9 - 78 ENGINE 3.3/3.8LRS
ENGINE 3.3/3.8L (Continued)

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE DIAGNOSIS - MECHANICAL
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
NOISY VALVES 1. High or low oil level in
crankcase.1. Check and correct engine oil
level.
2. Thin or diluted oil. 2. Change oil to correct viscosity.
3. Thick oil 3. (a) Change engine oil and filter.
(b) Run engine to operating
temperature.
(c) Change engine oil and filter
again.
4. Low oil pressure. 4. Check and correct engine oil
pressure problem.
5. Dirt in hydraulic lifters/lash
adjusters.5. Replace hydraulic lifters/lash
adjusters.
6. Worn rocker arms. 6. Inspect oil supply to rocker arms.
7. Worn hydraulic lifters/lash
adjusters.7. Replace hydraulic lifters/lash
adjusters.
8. Worn valve guides. 8. Replace cylinder head assembly.
9. Excessive runout of valve seats
on valve faces.9. Grind valve seats and valves.
CONNECTING ROD NOISE 1. Insufficient oil supply. 1. Check engine oil level.
2. Low oil pressure. 2. Check engine oil level. Inspect oil
pump relief valve and spring.
3. Thin or diluted oil. 3. Change oil to correct viscosity.
4. Thick oil 4. (a) Change engine oil and filter.
(b) Run engine to operating
temperature.
(c) Change engine oil and filter
again.
5. Excessive bearing clearance. 5. Measure bearings for correct
clearance. Repair as necessary.
6. Connecting rod journal
out-of-round.6. Replace crankshaft or grind
surface.
7. Misaligned connecting rods. 7. Replace bent connecting rods.
9 - 80 ENGINE 3.3/3.8LRS
ENGINE 3.3/3.8L (Continued)

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
MAIN BEARING NOISE 1. Insufficient oil supply. 1. Check engine oil level.
2. Low oil pressure. 2. Check engine oil level. Inspect oil
pump relief valve and spring.
3. Thin or diluted oil. 3. Change oil to correct viscosity.
4. Thick oil 4. (a) Change engine oil and filter.
(b) Run engine to operating
temperature.
(c) Change engine oil and filter
again.
5. Excessive bearing clearance. 5. Measure bearings for correct
clearance. Repair as necessary.
6. Excessive end play. 6. Check thrust bearing for wear on
flanges.
7. Crankshaft journal out-of-round
or worn.7. Replace crankshaft or grind
journals.
8. Loose flywheel or torque
converter.8. Tighten to correct torque.
OIL PRESSURE DROP 1. Low oil level. 1. Check engine oil level.
2. Faulty oil pressure sensor/switch. 2. Replace oil pressure sensor/
switch.
3. Low oil pressure. 3. Check oil pressure sensor/switch
and main bearing oil clearance.
4. Clogged oil filter. 4. Install new oil filter.
5. Worn parts in oil pump. 5. Replace worn parts or pump.
6. Thin or diluted oil. 6. Change oil to correct viscosity.
7. Oil pump relief valve stuck. 7. Remove valve and inspect, clean,
or replace.
8. Oil pump suction tube loose. 8. Remove oil pan and install new
tube or clean, if necessary.
9. Oil pump cover warped or
cracked.9. Install new oil pump.
10. Excessive bearing clearance. 10. Measure bearings for correct
clearance.
OIL LEAKS 1. Misaligned or deteriorated
gaskets.1. Replace gasket(s).
2. Loose fastener, broken or porous
metal part.2. Tighten, repair or replace the
part.
3. Misaligned or deteriorated cup or
threaded plug.3. Replace as necessary.
RSENGINE 3.3/3.8L9-81
ENGINE 3.3/3.8L (Continued)

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
OIL CONSUMPTION OR SPARK
PLUGS FOULED1. PCV system malfunction. 1. Check system and repair as
necessary. (Refer to 25 -
EMISSIONS CONTROL/
EVAPORATIVE EMISSIONS/PCV
VALVE - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING)
2. Worn, scuffed or broken rings. 2. Hone cylinder bores. Install new
rings.
3. Carbon in oil ring slots. 3. Install new rings.
4. Rings fitted too tightly in grooves. 4. Remove rings and check
grooves. If groove is not proper
width, replace piston.
5. Worn valve guide(s). 5. Replace cylinder head assembly.
6. Valve stem seal(s) worn or
damaged.6. Replace seal(s).
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE OIL LEAK
INSPECTION
Begin with a thorough visual inspection of the
engine, particularly at the area of the suspected leak.
If an oil leak source is not readily identifiable, the
following steps should be followed:
(1) Do not clean or degrease the engine at this
time because some solvents may cause rubber to
swell, temporarily stopping the leak.
(2) Add an oil soluble dye (use as recommended by
manufacturer). Start the engine and let idle for
approximately 15 minutes. Check the oil dipstick to
make sure the dye is thoroughly mixed as indicated
with a bright yellow color under a black light.
(3) Using a black light, inspect the entire engine
for fluorescent dye, particularly at the suspected area
of oil leak. If the oil leak is found and identified,
repair as necessary.
(4) If dye is not observed, drive the vehicle at var-
ious speeds for approximately 24 km (15 miles), and
repeat inspection.
(5)If the oil leak source is not positively
identified at this time, proceed with the air leak
detection test method as follows:
²Disconnect the fresh air hose (make-up air) at
the cylinder head cover and plug or cap the nipple on
the cover.
²Remove the PCV valve hose from the cylinder
head cover. Cap or plug the PCV valve nipple on the
cover.
²Attach an air hose with pressure gauge and reg-
ulator to the dipstick tube.
CAUTION: Do not subject the engine assembly to
more than 20.6 kpa (3 PSI) of test pressure.²Gradually apply air pressure from 1 psi to 2.5
psi maximum while applying soapy water at the sus-
pected source. Adjust the regulator to the suitable
test pressure that provides the best bubbles which
will pinpoint the leak source. If the oil leak is
detected and identified, repair per service manual
procedures.
²If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil
seal area, refer to the section, Inspection for Rear
Seal Area Leak.
(6) If no leaks are detected, turn off the air supply.
Remove the air hose, all plugs, and caps. Install the
PCV valve and fresh air hose (make-up air). Proceed
to next step.
(7) Clean the oil off the suspect oil leak area using
a suitable solvent. Drive the vehicle at various
speeds approximately 24 km (15 miles). Inspect the
engine for signs of an oil leak by using a black light.
NOTE: If oil leakage is observed at the dipstick tube
to block location; remove the tube, clean and reseal
using MoparTStud & Bearing Mount (press fit tube
applications only), and for O-ring style tubes,
remove tube and replace the O-ring seal.
INSPECTION FOR REAR SEAL AREA LEAKS
Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the
source of an oil leak in the rear seal area of the
engine, a more involved inspection is necessary. The
following steps should be followed to help pinpoint
the source of the leak.
If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal
area:
(1) Disconnect the battery.
(2) Raise the vehicle.
9 - 82 ENGINE 3.3/3.8LRS
ENGINE 3.3/3.8L (Continued)

(3) Remove torque converter or clutch housing
cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil.
Use a black light to check for the oil leak. If a leak is
present in this area, remove transmission for further
inspection.
(a) Circular spray pattern generally indicates
seal leakage or crankshaft damage.
(b) Where leakage tends to run straight down,
possible causes are a porous block, oil gallery cup
plug, bedplate to cylinder block mating surfaces
and seal bore. See proper repair procedures for
these items.
(4) If no leaks are detected, pressurize the crank-
case as previously described.
CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
(5) If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the
crankshaft and watch for leakage. If a leak is
detected between the crankshaft and seal while
slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the
crankshaft seal surface is damaged. The seal area on
the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches
that can be polished out with emery cloth.
CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft
polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks and
scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is especially
machined to complement the function of the rear oil
seal.
(6) For bubbles that remain steady with shaft
rotation, no further inspection can be done until dis-
assembled.
(7) After the oil leak root cause and appropriate
corrective action have been identified, replace compo-
nent(s) as necessary.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CYLINDER
COMPRESSION PRESSURE TEST
The results of a cylinder compression pressure test
can be utilized to diagnose several engine malfunc-
tions.
Ensure the battery is completely charged and the
engine starter motor is in good operating condition.
Otherwise the indicated compression pressures may
not be valid for diagnosis purposes.
(1) Check engine oil level and add oil if necessary.
(2) Drive the vehicle until engine reaches normal
operating temperature. Select a route free from traf-
fic and other forms of congestion, observe all traffic
laws, and accelerate through the gears several times
briskly.
(3) Remove all spark plugs from engine. As spark
plugs are being removed, check electrodes for abnor-
mal firing indicators fouled, hot, oily, etc. Record cyl-
inder number of spark plug for future reference.(4) Remove the Auto Shutdown (ASD) relay from
the PDC.
(5) Be sure throttle blade is fully open during the
compression check.
(6) Insert compression gauge adaptor Special Tool
8116 or the equivalent, into the #1 spark plug hole in
cylinder head. Connect the 0±500 psi (Blue) pressure
transducer (Special Tool CH7059) with cable adap-
tors to the DRBIIIt. For Special Tool identification,
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE - SPECIAL TOOLS).
(7) Crank engine until maximum pressure is
reached on gauge. Record this pressure as #1 cylin-
der pressure.
(8) Repeat the previous step for all remaining cyl-
inders.
(9) Compression should not be less than 689 kPa
(100 psi) and not vary more than 25 percent from cyl-
inder to cylinder.
(10) If one or more cylinders have abnormally low
compression pressures, repeat the compression test.
(11) If the same cylinder or cylinders repeat an
abnormally low reading on the second compression
test, it could indicate the existence of a problem in
the cylinder in question.The recommended com-
pression pressures are to be used only as a
guide to diagnosing engine problems. An engine
should not be disassembled to determine the
cause of low compression unless some malfunc-
tion is present.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CYLINDER
COMBUSTION PRESSURE LEAKAGE TEST
The combustion pressure leakage test provides an
accurate means for determining engine condition.
Combustion pressure leakage testing will detect:
²Exhaust and intake valve leaks (improper seat-
ing).
²Leaks between adjacent cylinders or into water
jacket.
²Any causes for combustion/compression pressure
loss.
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE THE PRESSURE CAP
WITH THE SYSTEM HOT AND UNDER PRESSURE
BECAUSE SERIOUS BURNS FROM COOLANT CAN
OCCUR.
Check the coolant level and fill as required. DO
NOT install the pressure cap.
Start and operate the engine until it attains nor-
mal operating temperature, then turn the engine
OFF.
Clean spark plug recesses with compressed air.
Remove the spark plugs.
Remove the oil filler cap.
Remove the air cleaner.
RSENGINE 3.3/3.8L9-83
ENGINE 3.3/3.8L (Continued)

(11) Disconnect the throttle cables from the throt-
tle body.
(12) Disconnect the MAP, IAC, and TPS electrical
connectors.
(13) Disconnect the EGR transducer electrical con-
nector (if equipped).
(14) Disconnect the vacuum hoses from throttle
body.
(15) Disconnect the brake booster and speed con-
trol vacuum hoses.
(16) Disengage wire harness clip from the right
side engine mount.
(17) Remove the power steering reservoir from
mounting position and set aside.Do notdisconnect
hose.
(18) Disconnect ground strap from rear of cylinder
head.
(19) Disconnect engine coolant temperature (ECT)
sensor and ignition coil electrical connectors.
(20) Disconnect the fuel injector electrical harness
connector and disengage clip from support bracket.
(21) Disconnect camshaft and crankshaft position
sensor electrical connectors.
(22) Evacuate air conditioning system. Refer to 24
- HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING.
(23) Disconnect A/C compressor electrical connec-
tor.
(24) Disconnect the A/C lines from compressor.
Cover and seal all openings of hoses and compressor.
(25) Remove the radiator upper hose.
(26) Disengage electrical harness clip at transaxle
dipstick tube.
(27) Remove transaxle dipstick tube. Seal opening
using a suitable plug.
NOTE: When the transaxle cooler lines are removed
from the rolled-groove type fittings at the transaxle,
damage to the inner wall of the hose will occur. To
prevent prevent potential leakage, the cooler hoses
must be cut off flush at the transaxle fitting, and a
service cooler hose splice kit must be installed
upon reassembly.
(28) Using a blade or suitable hose cutter, cut
transaxle oil cooler lines off flush with fittings. Plug
cooler lines and fittings to prevent debris from enter-
ing transaxle or cooler circuit. A service splice kit will
be installed upon reassembly.
(29) Disconnect transaxle shift linkage and electri-
cal connectors.
(30)
Raise vehicle on hoist and drain the engine oil.
(31) Remove the axle shafts. (Refer to 3 - DIFFER-
ENTIAL & DRIVELINE/HALF SHAFT - REMOVAL)
(32) Remove crossmember cradle plate (Fig. 6).
(33)AWD equipped:Remove the power transfer
unit (PTU) (Refer to 21 - TRANSMISSION/TRANS-
AXLE/POWER TRANSFER UNIT - REMOVAL).(34) Disconnect exhaust pipe from the manifold
(Fig. 7).
(35) Remove front engine mount and bracket as an
assembly.
(36) Remove the engine rear mount bracket.
(37) Remove the engine to transaxle struts (Fig. 8).
(38) Remove transaxle case cover (Fig. 8).
(39) Remove flex plate to torque converter bolts.
Mark torque converter to flex plate for orientation for
reassembly.
(40) Remove the power steering pressure hose sup-
port clip attaching bolt.
Fig. 6 Crossmember Cradle Plate
1 - CRADLE PLATE
Fig. 7 Catalytic Converter to Exhaust Manifold
1 - FLAG NUT
2 - GASKET
3 - BOLT
4 - CATALYTIC CONVERTER
RSENGINE 3.3/3.8L9-87
ENGINE 3.3/3.8L (Continued)