2003 OLDSMOBILE SILHOUETTE trailer

rowing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience.
Before setting out for the open road, you’ll want to get
to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of
handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer.
And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are
driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly as
responsive as your vehicle is by itself.
Before you start, check the trailer hitch and platform
(and attachments), safety chains, electrical connector,
lamps, tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has
electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and
then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be
sure the brakes are working. This lets you check your
electrical connection at the same time.
During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the
load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer
brakes are still working.
Following Distance
Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as
you would when driving your vehicle without a trailer.
This can help you avoid situations that require
heavy braking and sudden turns.
Passing
You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when
you’re towing a trailer. And, because you’re a good deal
longer, you’ll need to go much farther beyond the
passed vehicle before you can return to your lane.
Backing Up
Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand.
Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand
to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your
hand to the right. Always back up slowly and,
if possible,
have someone guide you.
Making Turns
Notice: Making very sharp turns while trailering
could cause the trailer
to come in contact with
the vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged.
Avoid making very sharp turns while trailering.
When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider turns than
normal.
Do this so your trailer won’t strike soft shoulders;
curbs, road signs, trees or other objects. Avoid jerky or
sudden maneuvers. Signal well
in advance.
4-41

Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer
When you tow a trailer, your vehicle has to have
extra wiring.
The arrows on your instrument panel will flash whenever
you signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up,
the trailer lamps will also flash, telling other drivers
you’re about
to turn, change lanes or stop.
When towing a trailer, the arrows on your instrument
panel will flash for turns even
if the bulbs on the trailer
are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind
you are seeing your signal when they are not.
It’s
important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer
bulbs are still working.
Driving On Grades
Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before you start
down a long or steep downgrade. If you don’t shift
down, you might have
to use your brakes so much that
they would get hot and no longer work well.
If you are towing a trailer that weighs more than
1,000 Ibs. (450 kg), you may prefer to drive in THIRD (3)
instead of AUTOMATIC OVERDRIVE (D) (or, as you
need
to, a lower gear). This will minimize heat build-up
and extend the life of your transaxle.
Parking on Hills
I
You really should not park your vehicle, u....~ a
trailer attached, on a hill. If something goes
wrong, your rig could start to move. People can be injured, and both your vehicle and the
trailer can be damaged.
But
if you ever have to park your rig on a hill,
here’s how to do it:
1. Apply your regular brakes, but don’t shift into
2, Have someone place chocks under the trailer
3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the
PARK
(P) yet.
wheels. regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load.
4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your
parking brake, and then shift
to PARK (P).
5. Release the regular brakes.
4-42

When You Are Ready to Leave After
Parking on a Hill
1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down
while you:
start your engine,
* shift into a gear, and
* release the parking brake.
2. Let up on the brake pedal.
3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks.
4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the
chocks.
Maintenance When Trailer Towing
Your vehicle will need service more often when you’re
pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance Schedule for more
on this. Things that are especially important in trailer
operation are automatic transaxle fluid (don’t overfill),
engine
oil, belts, cooling system and brake system.
Each of these is covered in this manual, and the
Index will help you find them quickly.
If you’re trailering,
it’s a good idea to review these sections before you
start your trip.
Check periodically
to see that all hitch nuts and bolts
are tight.
Trailer Wiring Harness
Your vehicle has a trailer wiring harness located at the
rear of your vehicle.
To use the trailer wiring harness
you need a converter kit. Contact your dealer for more
information.
4-43

Automatic Transaxle Fluid
When to Check and Change
A good time to check your automatic transaxle fluid
level is when the engine oil is changed.
Change both the fluid and filter every
50,000 miles
(83
000 km) if the vehicle is mainly driven under one or
more of these conditions:
In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature
regularly reaches 90°F (32°C) or higher.
In hilly or mountainous terrain.
When doing frequent trailer towing.
Uses such as found in taxi, police or delivery
service.
If you do not use your vehicle under any of
these conditions, change the fluid and filter at
100,000 miles (1 66 000 km).
See
Part A: Scheduled Maintenance Services
on page
6-4.
How to Check
Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may
choose to have this done at the dealership service
department.
If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions
here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick.
Notice: Too much or too little fluid can damage your
transaxle.
Too much can mean that some of the fluid
could come out and fall
on hot engine or exhaust
system parts, starting a fire.
Too little fluid could
cause the transaxle to overheat. Be sure to get an
accurate reading if you check your transaxle fluid.
Wait at least
30 minutes before checking the transaxle
fluid level
if you have been driving:
When outside temperatures are above 90°F (32°C).
At high speed for quite a while.
In heavy traffic - especially in hot weather.
While pulling a trailer.
To get the right reading, the fluid should be at normal
operating temperature, which
is 180°F to 200°F
(82°C to 93°C).
Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about
15 miles
(24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50°F
(1 0°C). If it's colder than 50°F (1 OOC), you may have to
drive longer.
5-20

Radiator Pressure Cap
Notice: Your radiator cap is a pressure-type cap
and must be tightly installed to prevent coolant
loss
and possible engine damage from overheating.
Be sure the arrows on the cap line
up with the
overflow tube on the radiator filler neck.
The radiator pressure cap is located at the front of the
engine compartment on the passenger’s side of the
vehicle. See
Engine Compartment Overview on
page 5-72 for more information on location.
Engine Overheating
You will find an engine coolant temperature gage on
your vehicle’s instrument panel cluster. See
Engine
Coolant Temperature Gage
on page 3-47. You also
have an engine coolant temperature warning message
on your instrument panel. See
Engine Coolant
Temperature Warning Message
on page 3-53.
Overheated Engine Protection
Operating Mode
This emergency operating mode allows your vehicle to
be driven to a safe place in an emergency situation.
If an overheated engine condition exists, an overheat
protection mode which alternates firing groups of
cylinders helps prevent engine damage.
In this mode,
you will notice a significant
loss in power and engine
performance. The temperature gage will indicate
an overheat condition exists. Driving extended miles
(km) and/or towing a trailer in the overheat protection
mode should be avoided.
Notice: After driving in the overheated engine
protection operating mode, to avoid engine damage,
allow the engine to cool before attempting any repair. The engine oil will be severely degraded.
Repair the cause
of coolant loss, change the oil
and reset the
oil life system. See “Engine Oil” in
the Index.
5-26

If No Steam Is Coming From
Your Engine
If you get an engine overheat warning but see or
hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious.
Sometimes the engine can get a little
too hot when you:
Climb a long hill on a hot day.
Stop after high-speed driving.
Idle for long periods in traffic.
Tow a trailer.
If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam,
try this for a minute or
so:
1. If your air conditioner is on, turn it off.
2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan
speed and open the window as necessary.
3. If you’re in a traffic jam, shift to NEUTRAL (N);
otherwise, shift to the highest gear while
driving
- AUTOMATIC OVERDRIVE (D) or
THIRD
(3).
If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can
drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about
10 minutes.
If the warning doesn’t come back on, you can drive
normally.
If the warning continues, pull over, stop, and park your
vehicle right away.
If there’s still no sign of steam, idle the engine for
three minutes while you’re parked. If you still have the
warning,
turn off the engine and get everyone out of
the vehicle until it cools down. Also, see “Overheated
Engine Protection Operating Mode” listed previously in
this section.
You may decide not to
lift the hood but to get service
help right away.
5-28

I Fuse I Usage I
Blank I Not Used
I PCM/CRANK I Powertrain Control Module (PCM),
Ignition Crank
I PASS KEY I PASS-Key@ Ill System I
I PWR LOCK I Power Door Locks I
I HTD MIRROR I Heated Mirrors I
I
RH T/LP I Driver’s Side Taillamp (Export Only) I
I
RR FOG LP I Fog Lamps (Export Only) I
CIGAR/DIC/
Auxiliary Power Outlets, Data Link
APO FRT Cigarette
Lighter, DIC, Front
I T/SIG I Turn Signal Switch I
PWR QTR
VENT Interior Lamp
and Multifunction
Switch (Power Vent Switch),
Auto Level
Windshield WiperNVasher Motor
and Switch
I HAZARD I Hazard Switch I
I RR PWR SCKT I Rear Electric Accessory Plug
Housing
I DRL Daytime Running
Lamp Control
Module Fuse
I Usage
LH T/LP
I
Passenger’s Side Taillamp
(Export Only)
RR DEFOG/ Rear Window Defogger Relay,
HTD MIRROR Heated Mirrors
ON STAR onstar@
SIR Inflatable Restraint Control Module HVAC
I Heater-A/C Control
BLOWER
MALL
CLUSTER Instrument Cluster, Body Control
Module, Electronic Level Control
(ELC) Sensor and Relay, Theft,
Door Ajar
STOP LAMP
I Stoplamp Switch
CLUSTER BATT Module/Electronic Brake Control
Module/Electronic Brake Traction
Control Module (EBCM/EBTCM)
Evaporative Emissions (EVAP)
Canister Vent Solenoid Valve,
All-Wheel Drive (AWD)
ENHANCED
Blank Not Used
ELC Air Compressor and ELC
Heiaht Sensor. Trailer Harness
5-98

Underhood Fuse Block
This fuse block is located
in the engine compartment,
in front of the windshield
washer fluid reservoir.
See
Engine Compartment
Overview
on page 5-12
for more information
on location.
The fuses marked spare are available
if a replacement
fuse
is needed.
To remove the cover, turn the knob counterclockwise
and lift up.
When finished, to put the cover back on, turn the knob
clockwise to tighten it. Make sure that the remote
positive
(+) terminal cover is on correctly.
(71
[61
[2)
111 Aul
I Fuse
I 2
4
Usage
Coolant Fans
Not Used
Circuit Breakers: Front Comfort
Controls Hi Blower, and Headlamp
Fuses (Instrument Panel): Hazard
and Stoplamp, PASS-Key@
Circuit Breaker: Power Seat and
Power Sliding Door. Fuses
(Instrument Panel): Electronic Level
Control and Rear Defogger, Trailer,
Fog Lamps
5-1 00