2003 JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE water leak

(2) If complaint was based on noise when braking,
check suspension components. Jounce front and rear
of vehicle and listen for noise that might be caused
by loose, worn or damaged suspension or steering
components.
(3) Inspect brake fluid level and condition. Note
that the brake reservoir fluid level will decrease in
proportion to normal lining wear.Also note that
brake fluid tends to darken over time. This is
normal and should not be mistaken for contam-
ination.
(a) If fluid level is abnormally low, look for evi-
dence of leaks at calipers, brake lines, master cyl-
inder, and HCU.
(b) If fluid appears contaminated, drain out a
sample to examine. System will have to be flushed
if fluid is separated into layers, or contains a sub-
stance other than brake fluid. The system seals,
cups, hoses, master cylinder, and HCU will also
have to be replaced after flushing. Use clean brake
fluid to flush the system.
(4) Check parking brake operation. Verify free
movement and full release of cables and lever. Also
note if vehicle was being operated with parking
brake partially applied.
(5) Check brake pedal operation. Verify that pedal
does not bind and has adequate free play. If pedal
lacks free play, check pedal and power booster for
being loose or for bind condition. Do not road test
until condition is corrected.
(6) Check booster vacuum check valve and hose.
(7) If components checked appear OK, road test
the vehicle.
ROAD TESTING
(1) If complaint involved low brake pedal, pump
pedal and note if it comes back up to normal height.
(2) Check brake pedal response with transmission
in neutral and engine running. Pedal should remain
firm under constant foot pressure.
(3) During road test, make normal and firm brake
stops in 25-40 mph range. Note faulty brake opera-
tion such as low pedal, hard pedal, fade, pedal pulsa-
tion, pull, grab, drag, noise, etc.
(4) Attempt to stop the vehicle with the parking
brake only (do not exceed 25 mph) and note grab,
drag, noise, etc.
PEDAL FALLS AWAY
A brake pedal that falls away under steady foot
pressure is generally the result of a system leak. The
leak point could be at a brake line, fitting, hose, or
caliper. If leakage is severe, fluid will be evident at
or around the leaking component.Internal leakage (seal by-pass) in the master cylin-
der caused by worn or damaged piston cups, may
also be the problem cause.
An internal leak in the ABS system may also be
the problem with no visual fluid leak.
LOW PEDAL
If a low pedal is experienced, pump the pedal sev-
eral times. If the pedal comes back up, the most
likely causes are worn linings, rotors, or calipers are
not sliding on the slide pins. The proper course of
action is to inspect and replace all worn component.
SPONGY PEDAL
A spongy pedal is most often caused by air in the
system. However substandard brake hoses can cause
a spongy pedal. The proper course of action is to
bleed the system, and replace substandard quality
brake hoses if suspected.
HARD PEDAL OR HIGH PEDAL EFFORT
A hard pedal or high pedal effort may be due to
lining that is water soaked, contaminated, glazed, or
badly worn. The power booster, check valve, check
valve seal/grommet or vacuum leak could also cause
a hard pedal or high pedal effort.
PEDAL PULSATION
Pedal pulsation is caused by components that are
loose, or beyond tolerance limits.
The primary cause of pulsation are disc brake
rotors with excessive lateral runout or thickness vari-
ation. Other causes are loose wheel bearings or cali-
pers and worn, damaged tires.
NOTE: Some pedal pulsation may be felt during
ABS activation.
BRAKE DRAG
Brake drag occurs when the lining is in constant
contact with the rotor or drum. Drag can occur at one
wheel, all wheels, fronts only, or rears only.
Drag is a product of incomplete brake release.
Drag can be minor or severe enough to overheat the
linings, rotors and park brake drums.
Minor drag will usually cause slight surface charring
of the lining. It can also generate hard spots in rotors
and park brake drums from the overheat-cool down pro-
cess. In most cases, the rotors, wheels and tires are
quite warm to the touch after the vehicle is stopped.
Severe drag can char the brake lining all the way
through. It can also distort and score rotors to the
point of replacement. The wheels, tires and brake
components will be extremely hot. In severe cases,
the lining may generate smoke as it chars from over-
heating.
WJBRAKES - BASE 5 - 3
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)

Common causes of brake drag are:
²Parking brake partially applied.
²Loose/worn wheel bearing.
²Seized caliper.
²Caliper binding.
²Loose caliper mounting.
²Mis-assembled components.
²Damaged brake lines.
If brake drag occurs at the front, rear or all
wheels, the problem may be related to a blocked mas-
ter cylinder return port, faulty power booster (binds-
does not release) or the ABS system.
BRAKE FADE
Brake fade is usually a product of overheating
caused by brake drag. However, brake overheating
and resulting fade can also be caused by riding the
brake pedal, making repeated high deceleration stops
in a short time span, or constant braking on steep
mountain roads. Refer to the Brake Drag information
in this section for causes.
BRAKE PULL
Front brake pull condition could result from:
²Contaminated lining in one caliper
²Seized caliper piston
²Binding caliper
²Loose caliper
²Rusty caliper slide surfaces
²Improper brake shoes
²Damaged rotor
²Wheel alignment.
²Tire pressure.
A worn, damaged wheel bearing or suspension compo-
nent are further causes of pull. A damaged front tire
(bruised, ply separation) can also cause pull.
A common and frequently misdiagnosed pull condi-
tion is where direction of pull changes after a few
stops. The cause is a combination of brake drag fol-
lowed by fade at one of the brake units.
As the dragging brake overheats, efficiency is so
reduced that fade occurs. Since the opposite brake
unit is still functioning normally, its braking effect is
magnified. This causes pull to switch direction in
favor of the normally functioning brake unit.
An additional point when diagnosing a change in
pull condition concerns brake cool down. Remember
that pull will return to the original direction, if the
dragging brake unit is allowed to cool down (and is
not seriously damaged).
REAR BRAKE DRAG OR PULL
Rear drag or pull may be caused by improperly
adjusted park brake shoes or seized parking brake
cables, contaminated lining, bent or binding shoes or
improperly assembled components. This is particu-
larly true when only one rear wheel is involved.However, when both rear wheels are affected, the
master cylinder or ABS system could be at fault.
BRAKES DO NOT HOLD AFTER DRIVING THROUGH DEEP
WATER PUDDLES
This condition is generally caused by water soaked
lining. If the lining is only wet, it can be dried by
driving with the brakes very lightly applied for a
mile or two. However, if the lining is both soaked and
dirt contaminated, cleaning and or replacement will
be necessary.
BRAKE LINING CONTAMINATION
Brake lining contamination is mostly a product of
leaking calipers or worn seals, driving through deep
water puddles, or lining that has become covered with
grease and grit during repair. Contaminated lining
should be replaced to avoid further brake problems.
WHEEL AND TIRE PROBLEMS
Some conditions attributed to brake components
may actually be caused by a wheel or tire problem.
A damaged wheel can cause shudder, vibration and
pull. A worn or damaged tire can also cause pull.
NOTE: Propshaft angle can also cause vibration/
shudder.
Severely worn tires with very little tread left can
produce a grab-like condition as the tire loses and
recovers traction. Flat-spotted tires can cause vibra-
tion and generate shudder during brake operation.
Tire damage such as a severe bruise, cut, ply separa-
tion, low air pressure can cause pull and vibration.
BRAKE NOISES
Some brake noise is common on some disc brakes
during the first few stops after a vehicle has been
parked overnight or stored. This is primarily due to
the formation of trace corrosion (light rust) on metal
surfaces. This light corrosion is typically cleared from
the metal surfaces after a few brake applications
causing the noise to subside.
BRAKE SQUEAK/SQUEAL
Brake squeak or squeal may be due to linings that
are wet or contaminated with brake fluid, grease, or oil.
Glazed linings and rotors with hard spots can also con-
tribute to squeak. Dirt and foreign material embedded
in the brake lining will also cause squeak/squeal.
A very loud squeak or squeal is frequently a sign of
severely worn brake lining. If the lining has worn
through to the brake shoes in spots, metal-to-metal
contact occurs. If the condition is allowed to continue,
rotors may become so scored that replacement is nec-
essary.
5 - 4 BRAKES - BASEWJ
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)

COOLING
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
COOLING
DESCRIPTION
DESCRIPTION - COOLING SYSTEM 4.7L
ENGINE..............................1
DESCRIPTION - COOLING SYSTEM
ROUTING 4.7L ENGINE..................1
DESCRIPTIONÐCOOLING SYSTEM 4.0L
ENGINE..............................1
DESCRIPTIONÐCOOLING SYSTEM
ROUTING 4.0L ENGINE..................1
DESCRIPTIONÐHOSE CLAMPS...........1
OPERATION
OPERATIONÐCOOLING SYSTEM.........2
OPERATIONÐHOSE CLAMPS............2
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐON-BOARD
DIAGNOSTICS (OBD)...................3
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐPRELIMINARY
CHECKS.............................3
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - COOLING
SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS CHART.............5
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - COOLING
SYSTEM LEAKS......................10DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - COOLING
SYSTEM DEAERATION.................12
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDUREÐDRAINING
COOLING SYSTEM 4.7L ENGINE.........12
STANDARD PROCEDURE - REFILLING
COOLING SYSTEM 4.7L ENGINE.........12
STANDARD PROCEDURE - DRAINING
COOLING SYSTEM - 4.0L ENGINE........13
STANDARD PROCEDURE - REFILLING
COOLING SYSTEM - 4.0L ENGINE........13
STANDARD PROCEDURE - ADDING
ADDITIONAL COOLANT.................13
STANDARD PROCEDURE - COOLING
SYSTEM - REVERSE FLUSHING..........14
SPECIFICATIONS
TORQUE............................14
SPECIAL TOOLS
COOLING...........................15
ACCESSORY DRIVE......................16
ENGINE...............................24
TRANSMISSION.........................55
COOLING
DESCRIPTION
DESCRIPTION - COOLING SYSTEM 4.7L
ENGINE
The cooling system consists of the following items:
²Hydraulic cooling fan and fan drive assembly
²Radiator
²Power steering oil cooler
²Radiator pressure cap
²Thermostat
²Coolant reserve/overflow system
²Transmission oil cooler (if equipped with an
automatic transmission)
²Coolant
²Water pump
²Hoses and hose clamps
DESCRIPTION - COOLING SYSTEM ROUTING
4.7L ENGINE
For cooling system routing refer to (Fig. 1).
DESCRIPTIONÐCOOLING SYSTEM 4.0L
ENGINE
The cooling system consists of:
²A radiator
²Mechanical Cooling Fan
²Thermal viscous fan drive-Low disengaged
²Fan shroud (Fig. 2)
²Radiator pressure cap
²Thermostat
²Coolant reserve/overflow system
²Transmission oil cooler (if equipped with an
automatic transmission)
²Coolant
²Water pump
²Hoses and hose clamps
²Accessory drive belt
DESCRIPTIONÐCOOLING SYSTEM ROUTING
4.0L ENGINE
For cooling system routing refer to (Fig. 3).
DESCRIPTIONÐHOSE CLAMPS
The cooling system utilizes both worm drive and
spring type hose clamps. If a spring type clamp
WJCOOLING 7 - 1

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
7. Water pump impeller loose on
shaft.7. Check water pump and replace as
necessary. (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/
WATER PUMP - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING).
8. Loose accessory drive belt. (water
pump slipping)8. (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ACCESSORY
DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING). Check and correct as necessary.
9. Air leak on the suction side of the
water pump allows air to build up in
cooling system causing thermostat
to open late.9. Locate leak and repair as necessary.
PRESSURE CAP IS
BLOWING OFF STEAM
AND/OR COOLANT TO
COOLANT TANK.
TEMPERATURE GAUGE
READING MAY BE
ABOVE NORMAL BUT
NOT HIGH. COOLANT
LEVEL MAY BE HIGH IN
COOLANT RESERVE/
OVERFLOW TANK1. Pressure relief valve in radiator
cap is defective.1. Check condition of radiator cap and cap
seals. (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/
RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP - DIAGNOSIS
AND TESTING). Replace cap as necessary.
COOLANT LOSS TO THE
GROUND WITHOUT
PRESSURE CAP
BLOWOFF. GAUGE
READING HIGH OR HOT1. Coolant leaks in radiator, cooling
system hoses, water pump or
engine.1. Pressure test and repair as necessary.
(Refer to 7 - COOLING - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING).
DETONATION OR
PRE-IGNITION (NOT
CAUSED BY IGNITION
SYSTEM). GAUGE MAY
OR MAY NOT BE
READING HIGH1. Engine overheating. 1. Check reason for overheating and repair
as necessary.
2. Freeze point of coolant not
correct. Mixture is too rich or too
lean.2. Check coolant concentration. (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ENGINE/COOLANT -
DESCRIPTION) and adjust ratio as required.
HOSE OR HOSES
COLLAPSE WHILE
ENGINE IS RUNNING1. Vacuum created in cooling system
on engine cool-down is not being
relieved through coolant reserve/
overflow system.1. (a) Radiator cap relief valve stuck. (Refer
to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/RADIATOR
PRESSURE CAP - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING). Replace if necessary
(b) Hose between coolant reserve/overflow
tank and radiator is kinked. Repair as
necessary.
(c) Vent at coolant reserve/overflow tank is
plugged. Clean vent and repair as necessary.
(d) Reserve/overflow tank is internally
blocked or plugged. Check for blockage and
repair as necessary.
7 - 8 COOLINGWJ
COOLING (Continued)

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
COOLANT LEVEL
CHANGES IN COOLANT
RESERVE/OVERFLOW
TANK. TEMPERATURE
GAUGE IS IN NORMAL
RANGE1. Level changes are to be expected
as coolant volume fluctuates with
engine temperature. If the level in
the tank was between the FULL and
ADD marks at normal operating
temperature, the level should return
to within that range after operation
at elevated temperatures.1. A normal condition. No repair is necessary.
FAN RUNS ALL THE
TIME1. Fan control sensors inoperative. 1. Check for DTC's. Verify sensor readings.
2. Fan control solenoid stuck9on9. 2. Check fan operation speeds. Refer to fan
speed operation table.
3. Fan control solenoid harness
damaged.3. Check for DTC 1499. Repair as required.
4. Transmission temperature too
high.4. Check for transmission over temp. DTC.
5. Engine coolant temperature too
high.5. (a) Check coolant level. Correct level as
required.
(b) Thermostat stuck. Replace thermostat.
(c) Water pump failed. Replace water pump.
(d) Coolant flow restricted. Clean radiator.
(e) Air flow over radiator obstructed.Remove
obstruction.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - COOLING SYSTEM
LEAKS
ULTRAVIOLET LIGHT METHOD
A leak detection additive is available through the
parts department that can be added to cooling sys-
tem. The additive is highly visible under ultraviolet
light (black light). Pour one ounce of additive into
cooling system. Place heater control unit in HEAT
position. Start and operate engine until radiator
upper hose is warm to touch. Aim the commercially
available black light tool at components to be
checked. If leaks are present, black light will cause
additive to glow a bright green color.
The black light can be used in conjunction with a
pressure tester to determine if any external leaks
exist (Fig. 5).
PRESSURE TESTER METHOD
The engine should be at normal operating temper-
ature. Recheck the system cold if cause of coolant
loss is not located during the warm engine examina-
tion.
WARNING: HOT, PRESSURIZED COOLANT CAN
CAUSE INJURY BY SCALDING.
Fig. 5 Leak Detection Using Black LightÐTypical
1 - TYPICAL BLACK LIGHT TOOL
7 - 10 COOLINGWJ
COOLING (Continued)

Carefully remove radiator pressure cap from filler
neck and check coolant level. Push down on cap to
disengage it from stop tabs. Wipe inside of filler neck
and examine lower inside sealing seat for nicks,
cracks, paint, dirt and solder residue. Inspect radia-
tor-to- reserve/overflow tank hose for internal
obstructions. Insert a wire through the hose to be
sure it is not obstructed.
Inspect cams on outside of filler neck. If cams are
damaged, seating of pressure cap valve and tester
seal will be affected.
Attach pressure tester (7700 or an equivalent) to
radiator filler neck (Fig. 6).
Operate tester pump to apply 103.4 kPa (15 psi)
pressure to system. If hoses enlarge excessively or
bulges while testing, replace as necessary. Observe
gauge pointer and determine condition of cooling sys-
tem according to following criteria:
Holds Steady:If pointer remains steady for two
minutes, serious coolant leaks are not present in sys-
tem. However, there could be an internal leak that
does not appear with normal system test pressure. If
it is certain that coolant is being lost and leaks can-
not be detected, inspect for interior leakage or per-
form Internal Leakage Test.
Drops Slowly:Indicates a small leak or seepage
is occurring. Examine all connections for seepage or
slight leakage with a flashlight. Inspect radiator,
hoses, gasket edges and heater. Seal small leak holes
with a Sealer Lubricant (or equivalent). Repair leak
holes and inspect system again with pressure
applied.
Drops Quickly:Indicates that serious leakage is
occurring. Examine system for external leakage. If
leaks are not visible, inspect for internal leakage.
Large radiator leak holes should be repaired by a
reputable radiator repair shop.INTERNAL LEAKAGE INSPECTION
Remove engine oil pan drain plug and drain a
small amount of engine oil. If coolant is present in
the pan, it will drain first because it is heavier than
oil. An alternative method is to operate engine for a
short period to churn the oil. After this is done,
remove engine dipstick and inspect for water glob-
ules. Also inspect transmission dipstick for water
globules and transmission fluid cooler for leakage.
WARNING: WITH RADIATOR PRESSURE TESTER
TOOL INSTALLED ON RADIATOR, DO NOT ALLOW
PRESSURE TO EXCEED 110 KPA (20 PSI). PRES-
SURE WILL BUILD UP QUICKLY IF A COMBUSTION
LEAK IS PRESENT. TO RELEASE PRESSURE,
ROCK TESTER FROM SIDE TO SIDE. WHEN
REMOVING TESTER, DO NOT TURN TESTER MORE
THAN 1/2 TURN IF SYSTEM IS UNDER PRESSURE.
Operate engine without pressure cap on radiator
until thermostat opens. Attach a Pressure Tester to
filler neck. If pressure builds up quickly it indicates a
combustion leak exists. This is usually the result of a
cylinder head gasket leak or crack in engine. Repair
as necessary.
If there is not an immediate pressure increase,
pump the Pressure Tester. Do this until indicated
pressure is within system range of 110 kPa (16 psi).
Fluctuation of gauge pointer indicates compression or
combustion leakage into cooling system.
Because the vehicle is equipped with a catalytic
converter,do notremove spark plug cables or short
out cylinders to isolate compression leak.
If the needle on dial of pressure tester does not
fluctuate, race engine a few times to check for an
abnormal amount of coolant or steam. This would be
emitting from exhaust pipe. Coolant or steam from
exhaust pipe may indicate a faulty cylinder head gas-
ket, cracked engine cylinder block or cylinder head.
A convenient check for exhaust gas leakage into
cooling system is provided by a commercially avail-
able Block Leak Check tool. Follow manufacturers
instructions when using this product.
COMBUSTION LEAKAGE TEST - WITHOUT
PRESSURE TESTER
DO NOT WASTE reusable coolant. If solution is
clean, drain coolant into a clean container for reuse.
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE CYLINDER BLOCK
DRAIN PLUGS OR LOOSEN RADIATOR DRAIN-
COCK WITH SYSTEM HOT AND UNDER PRESSURE.
SERIOUS BURNS FROM COOLANT CAN OCCUR.
Drain sufficient coolant to allow thermostat
removal. (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/ENGINE
COOLANT THERMOSTAT - REMOVAL). Remove
Fig. 6 Pressure Testing Cooling SystemÐTypical
1 - TYPICAL COOLING SYSTEM PRESSURE TESTER
WJCOOLING 7 - 11
COOLING (Continued)

accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ACCES-
SORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS - REMOVAL).
Add coolant to radiator to bring level to within 6.3
mm (1/4 in) of top of thermostat housing.
CAUTION: Avoid overheating. Do not operate
engine for an excessive period of time. Open drain-
cock immediately after test to eliminate boil over.
Start engine and accelerate rapidly three times, to
approximately 3000 rpm while observing coolant. If
internal engine combustion gases are leaking into
cooling system, bubbles will appear in coolant. If bub-
bles do not appear, internal combustion gas leakage
is not present.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - COOLING SYSTEM
DEAERATION
As the engine operates, any air trapped in cooling
system gathers under the radiator cap. The next time
the engine is operated, thermal expansion of coolant
will push any trapped air past radiator cap into the
coolant reserve/overflow tank. Here it escapes to the
atmosphere into the tank. When the engine cools
down the coolant, it will be drawn from the reserve/
overflow tank into the radiator to replace any
removed air.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDUREÐDRAINING COOLING
SYSTEM 4.7L ENGINE
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE THE CYLINDER
BLOCK DRAIN PLUGS (Fig. 7) OR LOOSEN THE
RADIATOR DRAINCOCK WITH SYSTEM HOT AND
UNDER PRESSURE. SERIOUS BURNS FROM
COOLANT CAN OCCUR.
(1) DO NOT remove radiator cap first. With engine
cold, raise vehicle on a hoist and locate radiator
draincock.
NOTE: Radiator draincock is located on the left/
lower side of radiator facing to rear of vehicle.
(2) Attach one end of a hose to the draincock. Put
the other end into a clean container. Open draincock
and drain coolant from radiator. This will empty the
coolant reserve/overflow tank. The coolant does not
have to be removed from the tank unless the system
is being refilled with a fresh mixture. When tank is
empty, remove radiator cap and continue draining
cooling system.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - REFILLING
COOLING SYSTEM 4.7L ENGINE
(1) Tighten the radiator draincock and the cylinder
block drain plug(s) (if removed).
CAUTION: Failure to purge air from the cooling sys-
tem can result in an overheating condition and
severe engine damage.
(2) Remove the cooling system bleed plug from the
radiator upper hose inlet housing. (Fig. 8)Fill system
using a 50/50 mixture of ethylene-glycol antifreeze
and low mineral content water, until coolant begains
coming out of the cooling system bleed hole. Install
the cooling system bleed plug. Fill radiator to top and
install radiator cap. Add sufficient coolant to the
reserve/overflow tank to raise level to FULL mark.
(3) With heater control unit in the HEAT position,
operate engine with radiator cap in place.
(4) After engine has reached normal operating
temperature, shut engine off and allow it to cool.
When engine is cooling down, coolant will be drawn
into the radiator from the reserve/overflow tank.
(5) Add coolant to reserve/overflow tank as neces-
sary.Only add coolant to the reserve/overflow
tank when the engine is cold. Coolant level in a
warm engine will be higher due to thermal
expansion.To purge the cooling system of all air,
this heat up/cool down cycle (adding coolant to cold
engine) must be performed three times. Add neces-
sary coolant to raise tank level to the FULL mark
after each cool down period.
Fig. 7 Drain PlugÐ4.7L Engine
1 - CYLINDER BLOCK DRAIN PLUG
2 - EXHAUST MANIFOLD AND HEAT SHIELD
7 - 12 COOLINGWJ
COOLING (Continued)

The use of aluminum cylinder blocks, cylinder
heads, and water pumps requires special corrosion
protection. MopartAntifreeze/Coolant, 5
Year/100,000 Mile Formula (MS-9769), or the equiva-
lent ethylene glycol base coolant with organic corro-
sion inhibitors (called HOAT, for Hybrid Organic
Additive Technology) is recommended. This coolant
offers the best engine cooling without corrosion when
mixed with 50% Ethylene Glycol and 50% distilled
water to obtain a freeze point of -37ÉC (-35ÉF). If it
loses color or becomes contaminated, drain, flush,
and replace with fresh properly mixed coolant solu-
tion.
CAUTION: MoparTAntifreeze/Coolant, 5
Year/100,000 Mile Formula (MS-9769) may not be
mixed with any other type of antifreeze. Mixing of
coolants other than specified (non-HOAT or other
HOAT), may result in engine damage that may not
be covered under the new vehicle warranty, and
decreased corrosion protection.
COOLANT PERFORMANCE
The required ethylene-glycol (antifreeze) and water
mixture depends upon climate and vehicle operating
conditions. The coolant performance of various mix-
tures follows:
Pure Water-Water can absorb more heat than a
mixture of water and ethylene-glycol. This is for pur-
pose of heat transfer only. Water also freezes at a
higher temperature and allows corrosion.
100 percent Ethylene-Glycol-The corrosion
inhibiting additives in ethylene-glycol need the pres-
ence of water to dissolve. Without water, additives
form deposits in system. These act as insulation
causing temperature to rise to as high as 149ÉC
(300ÉF). This temperature is hot enough to melt plas-
tic and soften solder. The increased temperature can
result in engine detonation. In addition, 100 percent
ethylene-glycol freezes at -22ÉC (-8ÉF).
50/50 Ethylene-Glycol and Water-Is the recom-
mended mixture, it provides protection against freez-
ing to -37ÉC (-34ÉF). The antifreeze concentration
must alwaysbe a minimum of 44 percent, year-
round in all climates. If percentage is lower, engine
parts may be eroded by cavitation. Maximum protec-
tion against freezing is provided with a 68 percent
antifreeze concentration, which prevents freezing
down to -67.7ÉC (-90ÉF). A higher percentage will
freeze at a warmer temperature. Also, a higher per-
centage of antifreeze can cause the engine to over-
heat because specific heat of antifreeze is lower than
that of water.CAUTION: Richer antifreeze mixtures cannot be
measured with normal field equipment and can
cause problems associated with 100 percent ethyl-
ene-glycol.
COOLANT SELECTION AND ADDITIVES
The use of aluminum cylinder blocks, cylinder
heads and water pumps requires special corrosion
protection. Only MopartAntifreeze/Coolant, 5
Year/100,000 Mile Formula (glycol base coolant with
corrosion inhibitors called HOAT, for Hybrid Organic
Additive Technology) is recommended. This coolant
offers the best engine cooling without corrosion when
mixed with 50% distilled water to obtain to obtain a
freeze point of -37ÉC (-35ÉF). If it loses color or
becomes contaminated, drain, flush, and replace with
fresh properly mixed coolant solution.
CAUTION: Do not use coolant additives that are
claimed to improve engine cooling.
OPERATION
Coolant flows through the engine block absorbing
the heat from the engine, then flows to the radiator
where the cooling fins in the radiator transfers the
heat from the coolant to the atmosphere. During cold
weather the ethylene-glycol coolant prevents water
present in the cooling system from freezing within
temperatures indicated by mixture ratio of coolant to
water.
COOLANT LEVEL SENSOR
REMOVAL
(1) Open Hood.
(2) Disconnect electrical connector from coolant
level sensor.
(3) Pull coolant level sensor out of coolant recovery
pressure container.
INSTALLATION
NOTE: Make sure the coolant level sensor fully
seats into the rubber grommet. Failure to do so
may cause inaccurate coolant level readings and
leaks.
7 - 26 ENGINEWJ
COOLANT (Continued)