2003 JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE air suspension

GROUP TAB LOCATOR
Introduction
0Lubrication & Maintenance
2Suspension
3Driveline
5Brakes
7Cooling
8AAudio
8BChime/Buzzer
8EElectronic Control Modules
8FEngine Systems
8GHeated Systems
8HHorn
8IIgnition Control
8JInstrument Cluster
8LLamps
8MMessage Systems
8NPower Systems
8ORestraints
8PSpeed Control
8QVehicle Theft Security
8RWipers/Washers
8WWiring
9Engine
11Exhaust System
13Frame & Bumpers
14Fuel System
19Steering
21Transaxle
22Tires/Wheels
23Body
24Heating & Air Conditioning
25Emissions Control
Service Manual Comment Forms (Rear of Manual)

SUSPENSION
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
SUSPENSION
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - SUSPENSION
AND STEERING SYSTEM................1WHEEL ALIGNMENT......................3
FRONT.................................6
REAR.................................17
SUSPENSION
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - SUSPENSION AND
STEERING SYSTEM
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
FRONT END NOISE 1. Loose or worn wheel bearings. 1. Adjust or replace wheel bearings.
2. Loose or worn steering or
suspension components.2. Tighten or replace components as
necessary.
EXCESSIVE PLAY IN
STEERING1. Loose or worn wheel bearings. 1. Adjust or replace wheel bearings.
2. Loose or worn steering or
suspension components.2. Tighten or replace components as
necessary.
3. Loose or worn steering gear. 3. Adjust or replace steering gear.
FRONT WHEELS SHIMMY 1. Loose or worn wheel bearings. 1. Adjust or replace wheel bearings.
2. Loose or worn steering or
suspension components.2. Tighten or replace components as
necessary.
3. Tires worn or out of balance. 3. Replace or balance tires.
4. Alignment. 4. Align vehicle to specifications.
5. Leaking steering dampener. 5. Replace steering dampener.
VEHICLE INSTABILITY 1. Loose or worn wheel bearings. 1. Adjust or replace wheel bearings.
2. Loose or worn steering or
suspension components.2. Tighten or replace components as
necessary.
3. Tire pressure. 3. Adjust tire pressure.
4. Alignment. 4. Align vehicle to specifications.
EXCESSIVE STEERING
EFFORT1. Loose or worn steering gear. 1. Adjust or replace steering gear.
2. Power steering fluid low. 2. Add fluid and repair leak.
3. Column coupler binding. 3. Replace coupler.
4. Tire pressure. 4. Adjust tire pressure.
5. Alignment. 5. Align vehicle to specifications.
WJSUSPENSION 2 - 1

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
VEHICLE PULLS TO ONE
SIDE DURING BRAKING1. Uneven tire pressure. 1. Adjust tire pressure.
2. Worn brake components. 2. Repair brakes as necessary.
3. Air in brake line. 3. Repair as necessary.
VEHICLE LEADS OR
DRIFTS FROM STRAIGHT
AHEAD DIRECTION ON
UNCROWNED ROAD1. Radial tire lead. 1. Cross front tires.
2. Brakes dragging. 2. Repair brake as necessary.
3. Weak or broken spring. 3. Replace spring.
4. Uneven tire pressure. 4. Adjust tire pressure.
5. Wheel Alignment. 5. Align vehicle.
6. Loose or worn steering or
suspension components.6. Repair as necessary.
7. Cross caster out of spec. 7. Align vehicle.
KNOCKING, RATTLING
OR SQUEAKING1. Worn shock bushings. 1. Replace shock.
2. Loose, worn or bent steering/
suspension components.2. Inspect, tighten or replace components
as necessary.
3. Shock valve. 3. Replace shock.
IMPROPER TRACKING 1. Loose, worn or bent track bar. 1. Inspect, tighten or replace component as
necessary.
2. Loose, worn or bent steering/
suspension components.2. Inspect, tighten or replace components
as necessary.
2 - 2 SUSPENSIONWJ
SUSPENSION (Continued)

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - REAR
SUSPENSION
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
VEHICLE INSTABILITY 1. Loose or worn wheel bearings. 1. Replace wheel bearings.
2. Loose, worn or bent suspension
components.2. Inspect, tighten or replace components
as necessary.
3. Tire pressure. 3. Adjust tire pressure.
VEHICLE PULLS TO ONE
SIDE1. Weak or broken spring. 1. Replace spring.
2. Alignment. 2. Align vehicle to specifications.
3.Tires. 3. Replace tires.
4. Brakes. 4. Repair as necassary.
KNOCKING, RATTLING
OR SQUEAKING1. Worn shock bushings. 1. Replace shock.
2. Loose shock mounting. 2. Tighten to specifications.
3. Shock valve. 3. Replace shock.
4. Loose upper ball joint. 4. Replace ball joint.
5. Loose, worn or bent suspension
components.5. Inspect, tighten or replace components
as necessary.
IMPROPER TRACKING 1. Loose, worn or bent suspension
components.1. Inspect, tighten or replace components
as necessary.
2. Bent axle. 2.Replace axle.
SPECIFICATIONS
TORQUE CHART
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
DESCRIPTION N´m Ft. Lbs. In. Lbs.
Shock Absorber Upper Nut 108 80 Ð
Shock Absorber Lower Nut 115 85 Ð
Suspension Arm Upper Ball Joint Nut 142 105 Ð
Suspension Arm Upper Frame Bolts 100 74 Ð
Ball Joint Plate Bolts 136 100 Ð
Suspension Arms Lower Axle Bracket Nut 163 120 Ð
Suspension Arms Lower Frame Bracket Nut 156 115 Ð
Stabilizer Bar Retainer Bolts 54 40 Ð
Stabilizer Bar Bar Link Nut 54 40 Ð
Stabilizer Bar Bracket Link Nut 92 68 Ð
2 - 18 REARWJ
REAR (Continued)

(2) If complaint was based on noise when braking,
check suspension components. Jounce front and rear
of vehicle and listen for noise that might be caused
by loose, worn or damaged suspension or steering
components.
(3) Inspect brake fluid level and condition. Note
that the brake reservoir fluid level will decrease in
proportion to normal lining wear.Also note that
brake fluid tends to darken over time. This is
normal and should not be mistaken for contam-
ination.
(a) If fluid level is abnormally low, look for evi-
dence of leaks at calipers, brake lines, master cyl-
inder, and HCU.
(b) If fluid appears contaminated, drain out a
sample to examine. System will have to be flushed
if fluid is separated into layers, or contains a sub-
stance other than brake fluid. The system seals,
cups, hoses, master cylinder, and HCU will also
have to be replaced after flushing. Use clean brake
fluid to flush the system.
(4) Check parking brake operation. Verify free
movement and full release of cables and lever. Also
note if vehicle was being operated with parking
brake partially applied.
(5) Check brake pedal operation. Verify that pedal
does not bind and has adequate free play. If pedal
lacks free play, check pedal and power booster for
being loose or for bind condition. Do not road test
until condition is corrected.
(6) Check booster vacuum check valve and hose.
(7) If components checked appear OK, road test
the vehicle.
ROAD TESTING
(1) If complaint involved low brake pedal, pump
pedal and note if it comes back up to normal height.
(2) Check brake pedal response with transmission
in neutral and engine running. Pedal should remain
firm under constant foot pressure.
(3) During road test, make normal and firm brake
stops in 25-40 mph range. Note faulty brake opera-
tion such as low pedal, hard pedal, fade, pedal pulsa-
tion, pull, grab, drag, noise, etc.
(4) Attempt to stop the vehicle with the parking
brake only (do not exceed 25 mph) and note grab,
drag, noise, etc.
PEDAL FALLS AWAY
A brake pedal that falls away under steady foot
pressure is generally the result of a system leak. The
leak point could be at a brake line, fitting, hose, or
caliper. If leakage is severe, fluid will be evident at
or around the leaking component.Internal leakage (seal by-pass) in the master cylin-
der caused by worn or damaged piston cups, may
also be the problem cause.
An internal leak in the ABS system may also be
the problem with no visual fluid leak.
LOW PEDAL
If a low pedal is experienced, pump the pedal sev-
eral times. If the pedal comes back up, the most
likely causes are worn linings, rotors, or calipers are
not sliding on the slide pins. The proper course of
action is to inspect and replace all worn component.
SPONGY PEDAL
A spongy pedal is most often caused by air in the
system. However substandard brake hoses can cause
a spongy pedal. The proper course of action is to
bleed the system, and replace substandard quality
brake hoses if suspected.
HARD PEDAL OR HIGH PEDAL EFFORT
A hard pedal or high pedal effort may be due to
lining that is water soaked, contaminated, glazed, or
badly worn. The power booster, check valve, check
valve seal/grommet or vacuum leak could also cause
a hard pedal or high pedal effort.
PEDAL PULSATION
Pedal pulsation is caused by components that are
loose, or beyond tolerance limits.
The primary cause of pulsation are disc brake
rotors with excessive lateral runout or thickness vari-
ation. Other causes are loose wheel bearings or cali-
pers and worn, damaged tires.
NOTE: Some pedal pulsation may be felt during
ABS activation.
BRAKE DRAG
Brake drag occurs when the lining is in constant
contact with the rotor or drum. Drag can occur at one
wheel, all wheels, fronts only, or rears only.
Drag is a product of incomplete brake release.
Drag can be minor or severe enough to overheat the
linings, rotors and park brake drums.
Minor drag will usually cause slight surface charring
of the lining. It can also generate hard spots in rotors
and park brake drums from the overheat-cool down pro-
cess. In most cases, the rotors, wheels and tires are
quite warm to the touch after the vehicle is stopped.
Severe drag can char the brake lining all the way
through. It can also distort and score rotors to the
point of replacement. The wheels, tires and brake
components will be extremely hot. In severe cases,
the lining may generate smoke as it chars from over-
heating.
WJBRAKES - BASE 5 - 3
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)

Common causes of brake drag are:
²Parking brake partially applied.
²Loose/worn wheel bearing.
²Seized caliper.
²Caliper binding.
²Loose caliper mounting.
²Mis-assembled components.
²Damaged brake lines.
If brake drag occurs at the front, rear or all
wheels, the problem may be related to a blocked mas-
ter cylinder return port, faulty power booster (binds-
does not release) or the ABS system.
BRAKE FADE
Brake fade is usually a product of overheating
caused by brake drag. However, brake overheating
and resulting fade can also be caused by riding the
brake pedal, making repeated high deceleration stops
in a short time span, or constant braking on steep
mountain roads. Refer to the Brake Drag information
in this section for causes.
BRAKE PULL
Front brake pull condition could result from:
²Contaminated lining in one caliper
²Seized caliper piston
²Binding caliper
²Loose caliper
²Rusty caliper slide surfaces
²Improper brake shoes
²Damaged rotor
²Wheel alignment.
²Tire pressure.
A worn, damaged wheel bearing or suspension compo-
nent are further causes of pull. A damaged front tire
(bruised, ply separation) can also cause pull.
A common and frequently misdiagnosed pull condi-
tion is where direction of pull changes after a few
stops. The cause is a combination of brake drag fol-
lowed by fade at one of the brake units.
As the dragging brake overheats, efficiency is so
reduced that fade occurs. Since the opposite brake
unit is still functioning normally, its braking effect is
magnified. This causes pull to switch direction in
favor of the normally functioning brake unit.
An additional point when diagnosing a change in
pull condition concerns brake cool down. Remember
that pull will return to the original direction, if the
dragging brake unit is allowed to cool down (and is
not seriously damaged).
REAR BRAKE DRAG OR PULL
Rear drag or pull may be caused by improperly
adjusted park brake shoes or seized parking brake
cables, contaminated lining, bent or binding shoes or
improperly assembled components. This is particu-
larly true when only one rear wheel is involved.However, when both rear wheels are affected, the
master cylinder or ABS system could be at fault.
BRAKES DO NOT HOLD AFTER DRIVING THROUGH DEEP
WATER PUDDLES
This condition is generally caused by water soaked
lining. If the lining is only wet, it can be dried by
driving with the brakes very lightly applied for a
mile or two. However, if the lining is both soaked and
dirt contaminated, cleaning and or replacement will
be necessary.
BRAKE LINING CONTAMINATION
Brake lining contamination is mostly a product of
leaking calipers or worn seals, driving through deep
water puddles, or lining that has become covered with
grease and grit during repair. Contaminated lining
should be replaced to avoid further brake problems.
WHEEL AND TIRE PROBLEMS
Some conditions attributed to brake components
may actually be caused by a wheel or tire problem.
A damaged wheel can cause shudder, vibration and
pull. A worn or damaged tire can also cause pull.
NOTE: Propshaft angle can also cause vibration/
shudder.
Severely worn tires with very little tread left can
produce a grab-like condition as the tire loses and
recovers traction. Flat-spotted tires can cause vibra-
tion and generate shudder during brake operation.
Tire damage such as a severe bruise, cut, ply separa-
tion, low air pressure can cause pull and vibration.
BRAKE NOISES
Some brake noise is common on some disc brakes
during the first few stops after a vehicle has been
parked overnight or stored. This is primarily due to
the formation of trace corrosion (light rust) on metal
surfaces. This light corrosion is typically cleared from
the metal surfaces after a few brake applications
causing the noise to subside.
BRAKE SQUEAK/SQUEAL
Brake squeak or squeal may be due to linings that
are wet or contaminated with brake fluid, grease, or oil.
Glazed linings and rotors with hard spots can also con-
tribute to squeak. Dirt and foreign material embedded
in the brake lining will also cause squeak/squeal.
A very loud squeak or squeal is frequently a sign of
severely worn brake lining. If the lining has worn
through to the brake shoes in spots, metal-to-metal
contact occurs. If the condition is allowed to continue,
rotors may become so scored that replacement is nec-
essary.
5 - 4 BRAKES - BASEWJ
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)

NOTE: The front outer brake shoes are equipped
with a wear indicator. The indicator will produce an
audible noise when it contacts the rotor surface.
BRAKE CHATTER
Brake chatter is usually caused by loose or worn
components, or glazed/burnt lining. Rotors with hard
spots can also contribute to chatter. Additional causes
of chatter are out-of-tolerance rotors, brake lining not
securely attached to the shoes, loose wheel bearings
and contaminated brake lining.
THUMP/CLUNK NOISE
Thumping or clunk noises during braking are fre-
quentlynotcaused by brake components. In many
cases, such noises are caused by loose or damaged
steering, suspension, or engine components.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - MANUAL BLEEDING
Use Mopar brake fluid, or an equivalent quality
fluid meeting SAE J1703-F and DOT 3 standards
only. Use fresh, clean fluid from a sealed container at
all times.
Do not pump the brake pedal at any time while
bleeding. Air in the system will be compressed into
small bubbles that are distributed throughout the
hydraulic system. This will make additional bleeding
operations necessary.
Do not allow the master cylinder to run out of fluid
during bleed operations. An empty cylinder will allow
additional air to be drawn into the system. Check the
cylinder fluid level frequently and add fluid as
needed.
Bleed only one brake component at a time in the
following sequence:
(1) Fill the master cylinder reservoir with brake
fluid.
(2) If calipers are overhauled, open all caliper
bleed screws. Then close each bleed screw as fluid
starts to drip from it. Top off master cylinder reser-
voir once more before proceeding.
(3) Attach one end of bleed hose to bleed screw
and insert opposite end in glass container partially
filled with brake fluid (Fig. 1). Be sure end of bleed
hose is immersed in fluid.
(4) Open up bleeder, then have a helper press
down the brake pedal. Once the pedal is down close
the bleeder. Repeat bleeding until fluid stream is
clear and free of bubbles. Then move to the next
wheel.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - PRESSURE
BLEEDING
Use Mopar brake fluid, or an equivalent quality
fluid meeting SAE J1703-F and DOT 3 standards
only. Use fresh, clean fluid from a sealed container at
all times.
Do not pump the brake pedal at any time while
bleeding. Air in the system will be compressed into
small bubbles that are distributed throughout the
hydraulic system. This will make additional bleeding
operations necessary.
Do not allow the master cylinder to run out of fluid
during bleed operations. An empty cylinder will allow
additional air to be drawn into the system. Check the
cylinder fluid level frequently and add fluid as
needed.
Bleed only one brake component at a time in the
following sequence:
Follow the manufacturers instructions carefully
when using pressure equipment. Do not exceed the
tank manufacturers pressure recommendations. Gen-
erally, a tank pressure of 51-67 kPa (15-20 psi) is suf-
ficient for bleeding.
Fill the bleeder tank with recommended fluid and
purge air from the tank lines before bleeding.
Do not pressure bleed without a proper master cyl-
inder adapter. The wrong adapter can lead to leak-
age, or drawing air back into the system. Use
adapter provided with the equipment or Adapter
6921.
Fig. 1 Bleed Hose Setup
1 - BLEED HOSE
2 - FLUID CONTAINER PARTIALLY FILLED WITH FLUID
WJBRAKES - BASE 5 - 5
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
HORN SOUNDS
CONTINUOUSLY1. Faulty horn relay. 1. Refer to Horn Relay for the proper horn relay
diagnosis and testing procedures. Replace the
horn relay or repair the shorted horn relay control
circuit, if required.
2. Faulty horn switch. 2. Refer to Horn Switch for the proper horn switch
diagnosis and testing procedures. Replace the
horn switch or repair the shorted horn switch
circuit, if required.
HORN
DESCRIPTION
The dual electromagnetic diaphragm-type horns
are standard equipment on this model. Both horns
are secured to a mounting bracket. The mounting
bracket is secured with a screw to the back side of
the right extension of the radiator closure assembly,
just ahead of the right front wheel house and below
the front wheel house extension. The two horns are
connected in parallel. Each horn is grounded through
its wire harness connector and circuit to an eyelet
secured to the right inner fender shield near the bat-
tery, and receives battery feed through the closed
contacts of the horn relay.
The horns cannot be repaired or adjusted and, if
faulty or damaged, they must be individually
replaced.
OPERATION
Within the two halves of the molded plastic horn
housing are a flexible diaphragm, a plunger, an elec-
tromagnetic coil and a set of contact points. The dia-
phragm is secured in suspension around its
perimeter by the mating surfaces of the horn hous-
ing. The plunger is secured to the center of the dia-
phragm and extends into the center of the
electromagnet. The contact points control the current
flow through the electromagnet.
When the horn is energized, electrical current
flows through the closed contact points to the electro-
magnet. The resulting electromagnetic field draws
the plunger and diaphragm toward it until that
movement mechanically opens the contact points.
When the contact points open, the electromagnetic
field collapses allowing the plunger and diaphragm to
return to their relaxed positions and closing the con-
tact points again. This cycle continues repeating at a
very rapid rate producing the vibration and move-
ment of air that creates the sound that is directed
through the horn outlet.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HORN
Refer to the appropriate wiring information. The
wiring information includes wiring diagrams, proper
wire and connector repair procedures, details of wire
harness routing and retention, connector pin-out
information and location views for the various wire
harness connectors, splices and grounds.
(1) Disconnect the wire harness connector(s) from
the horn connector receptacle(s). Measure the resis-
tance between the ground circuit cavity of the horn(s)
wire harness connector(s) and a good ground. There
should be no measurable resistance. If OK, go to Step
2. If not OK, repair the open ground circuit to ground
as required.
(2) Check for battery voltage at the horn relay out-
put circuit cavity of the horn(s) wire harness connec-
tor(s). There should be zero volts. If OK, go to Step 3.
If not OK, repair the shorted horn relay output cir-
cuit or replace the faulty horn relay as required.
(3) Depress the horn switch. There should now be
battery voltage at the horn relay output circuit cavity
of the horn(s) wire harness connector(s). If OK,
replace the faulty horns. If not OK, repair the open
horn relay output circuit to the horn relay as
required.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect and isolate the battery negative
cable.
(2) Raise and support the vehicle.
(3) Remove the lower front half of the inner liner
from the right front fender wheel house. (Refer to 23
- BODY/EXTERIOR/FRONT FENDER - REMOVAL).
(4) Reach through the front of the right front
fender wheel house opening to access and disconnect
the two right headlamp and dash wire harness con-
nectors from the horn connector receptacles (Fig. 1).
Be certain to disengage the connector lock tabs
before disconnecting them from the horn connector
receptacles.
(5) Remove the screw that secures the horn
mounting bracket to the right extension of the radi-
ator closure assembly.
WJHORN 8H - 3
HORN SYSTEM (Continued)