2003 JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE Wheel bearing

AXLE SHAFTS
REMOVAL
(1) Place transmission in neutral.
(2) Raise and support vehicle.
(3) Remove wheel and tire assembly.
(4) Remove brake caliper and rotor.
(5) Remove nuts holding axle retainer plate to axle
tube from the rear of the axle flange.
(6) Pull axle shaft from the axle with Slide Ham-
mer 7420 and Adapter 6790. Mount the adapter to
the axle with lug nuts.
NOTE: The axle bearing race is normally loose in
the axle tube.
INSTALLATION
(1) Insall axle into the axle tube with the flat area
of the retainer plate upward.
(2) Insert retaining plate studs into the brake
backing plate and axle tube flange.
(3) Install retainer nuts and tighten nuts to 61
N´m (45 ft. lbs.).
(4) Install the brake rotor and caliper.
(5) Install wheel and tire.
(6) Check and fill the differential with gear lubri-
cant.
(7) Lower vehicle.
AXLE BEARINGS/SEALS
REMOVAL
(1) Remove axle shaft from vehicle.
NOTE: The axle bearing race is normally loose in
the axle tube.
(2) Drill a shallow hole into soft steel axle bearing
retaining ring with a 3/8 in. drill bit (Fig. 25). Use a
drill depth stop to avoid marking the axle.
(3) With a cold chisel cut the retaining ring across
drilled hole. (Fig. 26)
(4) Slide retaining ring from axle shaft.
Fig. 25 DRILL RETAINING RING
1 - DRILL BIT
2 - AXLE
3 - RETAINING PLATE
4 - RETAINING RING
Fig. 26 RETAINING RING
1 - AXLE
2 - COLD CHISEL
3 - VISE
4 - RETAINING RING
WJREAR AXLE - 226RBA 3 - 109

(5) Remove axle bearing from the shaft with, a
press and Splitter 1130 placed between the seal and
bearing (Fig. 27).
(6) Remove seal from axle.
(7) Remove retaining plate from axle shaft.
INSTALLATION
(1) Verify axle shaft retaining plate is flat with a
straight edge.
NOTE: If the plate is warped or the studs are loose
in the plate replace the retaining plate.
(2) Install retaining plate on the axle shaft (Fig.
28).
(3) Apply a coat of multi-purpose grease on sealing
surface of axle seal.
(4) Install seal on the axle shaft with cavity away
from retaining plate (Fig. 28).
(5) Lubricate bearing with Mopar Wheel Bearing
Grease or equivalent. Wipe excess grease from the
bearing.
(6) Install bearing on the axle shaft with Installer
7913 and a press (Fig. 29).
Fig. 27 AXLE BEARING AND SEAL
1 - SPLITTER
2 - AXLE
3 - BLOCKS
4 - PRESS PLATES
Fig. 28 AXLE BEARING AND SEAL COMPONENTS
1 - RETAINING RING
2 - SEAL
3 - AXLE
4 - RETAINING PLATE
5 - AXLE BEARING
Fig. 29 PRESS BEARING ON AXLE
1 - PRESS RAM
2 - INSTALLER
3 - AXLE BEARING
4 - SEAL
5 - RETAINING PLATE
6 - AXLE
3 - 110 REAR AXLE - 226RBAWJ
AXLE BEARINGS/SEALS (Continued)

(7) Press metal retaining ring onto axle shaft with
Installer 7913 and a press (Fig. 30).
(8) Install axle in vehicle.
PINION SEAL
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Remove wheel and tire assemblies.
(3) Remove rear brake calipers and rotors.
(4) Mark propeller shaft and pinion yoke for
installation reference.
(5) Remove the propeller shaft from the yoke.
(6) Rotate pinion gear three or four times and ver-
ify that pinion rotates smoothly.
(7) Record torque necessary to rotate the pinion
gear with a inch pound dial-type torque wrench.
(8) Using a short piece of pipe and Spanner
Wrench 6958 to hold the pinion yoke and remove pin-
ion nut and washer (Fig. 31).
(9) Remove pinion companion flange with Remover
C-452 and Flange Wrench C-3281. (Fig. 32)
Fig. 30 BEARING RETAINING RING
1 - PRESS
2 - AXLE
3 - AXLE BEARING
4 - INSTALLER
5 - METAL RETAINING RING
Fig. 31 Pinion Yoke Holder
1 - PIPE
2 - PINION YOKE
3 - SPANNER WRENCH
4 - LOWER CONTROL ARM
Fig. 32 Pinion Yoke Remover
1 - FLANGE WRENCH
2 - YOKE
3 - YOKE PULLER
WJREAR AXLE - 226RBA 3 - 111
AXLE BEARINGS/SEALS (Continued)

NOTE: If more than 380 N´m (280 ft. lbs.) torque is
required to crush the collapsible spacer, the spacer
is defective and must be replaced.
(7) Check rotating torque with an inch pound
torque wrench (Fig. 44). The rotating torque of the
pinion gear should be, the reading recorded during
removal plus an additional 0.56 N´m (5 in. lbs.).
(8)
Install propeller shaft with reference marks align.
(9) Install rear brake rotors and calipers.
(10) Add gear lubricant, if necessary.
(11) Install wheel and tire assemblies.
(12) Remove supports and lower vehicle.
DIFFERENTIAL
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support vehicle.
(2) Remove fill hole plug from the differential
housing cover.
(3) Remove differential housing cover and drain
fluid.
(4) Clean the housing cavity with flushing oil, light
engine oil or lint free cloth.
NOTE: Do not use water, steam, kerosene or gaso-
line for cleaning.
(5) Remove axle shafts.(6)
Note the reference letters stamped on the bearing
caps and housing machined sealing surface (Fig. 45).
(7) Loosen the differential bearing cap bolts.
(8) Position Spreader W-129-B with Adapter Kit
6987B on differential locating holes (Fig. 46). Install
holddown clamps and tighten the turnbuckle finger-
tight.
Fig. 44 PINION ROTATING TORQUE
1 - TORQUE WRENCH
2 - PINION YOKE
Fig. 45 BEARING CAP REFERENCE
1 - REFERENCE LETTERS
2 - REFERENCE LETTERS
Fig. 46 SPREADER LOCATION
1 - DIFFERENTIAL HOUSING
2 - DOWEL
3 - SAFETY HOLD DOWN
4 - SPREADER
5 - TURNBUCKLE
WJREAR AXLE - 226RBA 3 - 115
COLLAPSIBLE SPACER (Continued)

(2) If complaint was based on noise when braking,
check suspension components. Jounce front and rear
of vehicle and listen for noise that might be caused
by loose, worn or damaged suspension or steering
components.
(3) Inspect brake fluid level and condition. Note
that the brake reservoir fluid level will decrease in
proportion to normal lining wear.Also note that
brake fluid tends to darken over time. This is
normal and should not be mistaken for contam-
ination.
(a) If fluid level is abnormally low, look for evi-
dence of leaks at calipers, brake lines, master cyl-
inder, and HCU.
(b) If fluid appears contaminated, drain out a
sample to examine. System will have to be flushed
if fluid is separated into layers, or contains a sub-
stance other than brake fluid. The system seals,
cups, hoses, master cylinder, and HCU will also
have to be replaced after flushing. Use clean brake
fluid to flush the system.
(4) Check parking brake operation. Verify free
movement and full release of cables and lever. Also
note if vehicle was being operated with parking
brake partially applied.
(5) Check brake pedal operation. Verify that pedal
does not bind and has adequate free play. If pedal
lacks free play, check pedal and power booster for
being loose or for bind condition. Do not road test
until condition is corrected.
(6) Check booster vacuum check valve and hose.
(7) If components checked appear OK, road test
the vehicle.
ROAD TESTING
(1) If complaint involved low brake pedal, pump
pedal and note if it comes back up to normal height.
(2) Check brake pedal response with transmission
in neutral and engine running. Pedal should remain
firm under constant foot pressure.
(3) During road test, make normal and firm brake
stops in 25-40 mph range. Note faulty brake opera-
tion such as low pedal, hard pedal, fade, pedal pulsa-
tion, pull, grab, drag, noise, etc.
(4) Attempt to stop the vehicle with the parking
brake only (do not exceed 25 mph) and note grab,
drag, noise, etc.
PEDAL FALLS AWAY
A brake pedal that falls away under steady foot
pressure is generally the result of a system leak. The
leak point could be at a brake line, fitting, hose, or
caliper. If leakage is severe, fluid will be evident at
or around the leaking component.Internal leakage (seal by-pass) in the master cylin-
der caused by worn or damaged piston cups, may
also be the problem cause.
An internal leak in the ABS system may also be
the problem with no visual fluid leak.
LOW PEDAL
If a low pedal is experienced, pump the pedal sev-
eral times. If the pedal comes back up, the most
likely causes are worn linings, rotors, or calipers are
not sliding on the slide pins. The proper course of
action is to inspect and replace all worn component.
SPONGY PEDAL
A spongy pedal is most often caused by air in the
system. However substandard brake hoses can cause
a spongy pedal. The proper course of action is to
bleed the system, and replace substandard quality
brake hoses if suspected.
HARD PEDAL OR HIGH PEDAL EFFORT
A hard pedal or high pedal effort may be due to
lining that is water soaked, contaminated, glazed, or
badly worn. The power booster, check valve, check
valve seal/grommet or vacuum leak could also cause
a hard pedal or high pedal effort.
PEDAL PULSATION
Pedal pulsation is caused by components that are
loose, or beyond tolerance limits.
The primary cause of pulsation are disc brake
rotors with excessive lateral runout or thickness vari-
ation. Other causes are loose wheel bearings or cali-
pers and worn, damaged tires.
NOTE: Some pedal pulsation may be felt during
ABS activation.
BRAKE DRAG
Brake drag occurs when the lining is in constant
contact with the rotor or drum. Drag can occur at one
wheel, all wheels, fronts only, or rears only.
Drag is a product of incomplete brake release.
Drag can be minor or severe enough to overheat the
linings, rotors and park brake drums.
Minor drag will usually cause slight surface charring
of the lining. It can also generate hard spots in rotors
and park brake drums from the overheat-cool down pro-
cess. In most cases, the rotors, wheels and tires are
quite warm to the touch after the vehicle is stopped.
Severe drag can char the brake lining all the way
through. It can also distort and score rotors to the
point of replacement. The wheels, tires and brake
components will be extremely hot. In severe cases,
the lining may generate smoke as it chars from over-
heating.
WJBRAKES - BASE 5 - 3
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)

Common causes of brake drag are:
²Parking brake partially applied.
²Loose/worn wheel bearing.
²Seized caliper.
²Caliper binding.
²Loose caliper mounting.
²Mis-assembled components.
²Damaged brake lines.
If brake drag occurs at the front, rear or all
wheels, the problem may be related to a blocked mas-
ter cylinder return port, faulty power booster (binds-
does not release) or the ABS system.
BRAKE FADE
Brake fade is usually a product of overheating
caused by brake drag. However, brake overheating
and resulting fade can also be caused by riding the
brake pedal, making repeated high deceleration stops
in a short time span, or constant braking on steep
mountain roads. Refer to the Brake Drag information
in this section for causes.
BRAKE PULL
Front brake pull condition could result from:
²Contaminated lining in one caliper
²Seized caliper piston
²Binding caliper
²Loose caliper
²Rusty caliper slide surfaces
²Improper brake shoes
²Damaged rotor
²Wheel alignment.
²Tire pressure.
A worn, damaged wheel bearing or suspension compo-
nent are further causes of pull. A damaged front tire
(bruised, ply separation) can also cause pull.
A common and frequently misdiagnosed pull condi-
tion is where direction of pull changes after a few
stops. The cause is a combination of brake drag fol-
lowed by fade at one of the brake units.
As the dragging brake overheats, efficiency is so
reduced that fade occurs. Since the opposite brake
unit is still functioning normally, its braking effect is
magnified. This causes pull to switch direction in
favor of the normally functioning brake unit.
An additional point when diagnosing a change in
pull condition concerns brake cool down. Remember
that pull will return to the original direction, if the
dragging brake unit is allowed to cool down (and is
not seriously damaged).
REAR BRAKE DRAG OR PULL
Rear drag or pull may be caused by improperly
adjusted park brake shoes or seized parking brake
cables, contaminated lining, bent or binding shoes or
improperly assembled components. This is particu-
larly true when only one rear wheel is involved.However, when both rear wheels are affected, the
master cylinder or ABS system could be at fault.
BRAKES DO NOT HOLD AFTER DRIVING THROUGH DEEP
WATER PUDDLES
This condition is generally caused by water soaked
lining. If the lining is only wet, it can be dried by
driving with the brakes very lightly applied for a
mile or two. However, if the lining is both soaked and
dirt contaminated, cleaning and or replacement will
be necessary.
BRAKE LINING CONTAMINATION
Brake lining contamination is mostly a product of
leaking calipers or worn seals, driving through deep
water puddles, or lining that has become covered with
grease and grit during repair. Contaminated lining
should be replaced to avoid further brake problems.
WHEEL AND TIRE PROBLEMS
Some conditions attributed to brake components
may actually be caused by a wheel or tire problem.
A damaged wheel can cause shudder, vibration and
pull. A worn or damaged tire can also cause pull.
NOTE: Propshaft angle can also cause vibration/
shudder.
Severely worn tires with very little tread left can
produce a grab-like condition as the tire loses and
recovers traction. Flat-spotted tires can cause vibra-
tion and generate shudder during brake operation.
Tire damage such as a severe bruise, cut, ply separa-
tion, low air pressure can cause pull and vibration.
BRAKE NOISES
Some brake noise is common on some disc brakes
during the first few stops after a vehicle has been
parked overnight or stored. This is primarily due to
the formation of trace corrosion (light rust) on metal
surfaces. This light corrosion is typically cleared from
the metal surfaces after a few brake applications
causing the noise to subside.
BRAKE SQUEAK/SQUEAL
Brake squeak or squeal may be due to linings that
are wet or contaminated with brake fluid, grease, or oil.
Glazed linings and rotors with hard spots can also con-
tribute to squeak. Dirt and foreign material embedded
in the brake lining will also cause squeak/squeal.
A very loud squeak or squeal is frequently a sign of
severely worn brake lining. If the lining has worn
through to the brake shoes in spots, metal-to-metal
contact occurs. If the condition is allowed to continue,
rotors may become so scored that replacement is nec-
essary.
5 - 4 BRAKES - BASEWJ
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)

NOTE: The front outer brake shoes are equipped
with a wear indicator. The indicator will produce an
audible noise when it contacts the rotor surface.
BRAKE CHATTER
Brake chatter is usually caused by loose or worn
components, or glazed/burnt lining. Rotors with hard
spots can also contribute to chatter. Additional causes
of chatter are out-of-tolerance rotors, brake lining not
securely attached to the shoes, loose wheel bearings
and contaminated brake lining.
THUMP/CLUNK NOISE
Thumping or clunk noises during braking are fre-
quentlynotcaused by brake components. In many
cases, such noises are caused by loose or damaged
steering, suspension, or engine components.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - MANUAL BLEEDING
Use Mopar brake fluid, or an equivalent quality
fluid meeting SAE J1703-F and DOT 3 standards
only. Use fresh, clean fluid from a sealed container at
all times.
Do not pump the brake pedal at any time while
bleeding. Air in the system will be compressed into
small bubbles that are distributed throughout the
hydraulic system. This will make additional bleeding
operations necessary.
Do not allow the master cylinder to run out of fluid
during bleed operations. An empty cylinder will allow
additional air to be drawn into the system. Check the
cylinder fluid level frequently and add fluid as
needed.
Bleed only one brake component at a time in the
following sequence:
(1) Fill the master cylinder reservoir with brake
fluid.
(2) If calipers are overhauled, open all caliper
bleed screws. Then close each bleed screw as fluid
starts to drip from it. Top off master cylinder reser-
voir once more before proceeding.
(3) Attach one end of bleed hose to bleed screw
and insert opposite end in glass container partially
filled with brake fluid (Fig. 1). Be sure end of bleed
hose is immersed in fluid.
(4) Open up bleeder, then have a helper press
down the brake pedal. Once the pedal is down close
the bleeder. Repeat bleeding until fluid stream is
clear and free of bubbles. Then move to the next
wheel.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - PRESSURE
BLEEDING
Use Mopar brake fluid, or an equivalent quality
fluid meeting SAE J1703-F and DOT 3 standards
only. Use fresh, clean fluid from a sealed container at
all times.
Do not pump the brake pedal at any time while
bleeding. Air in the system will be compressed into
small bubbles that are distributed throughout the
hydraulic system. This will make additional bleeding
operations necessary.
Do not allow the master cylinder to run out of fluid
during bleed operations. An empty cylinder will allow
additional air to be drawn into the system. Check the
cylinder fluid level frequently and add fluid as
needed.
Bleed only one brake component at a time in the
following sequence:
Follow the manufacturers instructions carefully
when using pressure equipment. Do not exceed the
tank manufacturers pressure recommendations. Gen-
erally, a tank pressure of 51-67 kPa (15-20 psi) is suf-
ficient for bleeding.
Fill the bleeder tank with recommended fluid and
purge air from the tank lines before bleeding.
Do not pressure bleed without a proper master cyl-
inder adapter. The wrong adapter can lead to leak-
age, or drawing air back into the system. Use
adapter provided with the equipment or Adapter
6921.
Fig. 1 Bleed Hose Setup
1 - BLEED HOSE
2 - FLUID CONTAINER PARTIALLY FILLED WITH FLUID
WJBRAKES - BASE 5 - 5
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)

Measure rotor thickness a minimum of six points
around the rotor face. Position the micrometer approx-
imately 19 mm (3/4 in.) from the rotor outer circumfer-
ence for each measurement (Fig. 62).
Thickness should not vary by more than 0.0127 mm
(0.0005 in.) from point to point on the rotor. Refinish or
replace the rotor if necessary.
NOTE: A hub mounted on-vehicle lathe is recom-
mended. This type of lathe trues the rotor to the vehi-
cles hub/bearing.
CAUTION: For vehicles equipped with the Quadra-
Drive System, consisting of the NV-247 transfer case
and a Vari-Lok differential in the front and rear axles,
the following steps must be done prior to the use of a
hub mounted on-vehicle brake lathe. Disconnect the
driveshaft (Refer to 3 - DIFFERENTIAL & DRIVELINE/
PROPELLER SHAFT/PROPELLER SHAFT - REMOVAL)
from the respective axle on which the brake rotors are
being machined. Temporarily remove both brake cali-
pers (Refer to 5 - BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/
DISC BRAKE CALIPERS - REMOVAL) from the axle
while disc rotor machining is in process. Both steps
will prevent unnecessary loads to the hub mounted
on-vehicle lathe and speed machining times. Install a
thread lock material to the driveshaft attaching bolts
when reinstalling (Refer to 3 - DIFFERENTIAL & DRIV-
ELINE/PROPELLER SHAFT/PROPELLER SHAFT -
INSTALLATION).
Front rotors and hub/bearings are matched mounted
for minimum lateral runout. Before removing the rotor,
mark the rotor and hub/bearing to maintain original
orientation.
FRONT ROTOR LATERAL RUNOUT
Check rotor lateral runout whenever pedal pulsation,
or rapid, uneven brake lining wear has occurred.
The rotor must be securely clamped to the hub to
ensure an accurate runout measurement. Secure therotor with a minimum of 3 lug nuts and large diameter
flat washers on each stud.
Use a dial indicator to check lateral runout (Fig. 63).
Maximum allowable rotor lateral runout is 0.05 mm
(0.002 in.).
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - REAR DISC
BRAKE ROTOR
ROTOR MINIMUM THICKNESS
Minimum usable thickness of the rear disc brake
rotor is 8.5 mm (0.335 in.). The thickness specification
is located on the center section of the rotor.
Never resurface a rotor if machining would cause
thickness to fall below this limit.
Measure rotor thickness at the center of the brake
shoe contact surface. Replace the rotor if worn below
minimum thickness, or if refinishing would reduce
thickness below the allowable minimum.
REAR ROTOR THICKNESS VARIATION
Variations in rotor thickness will cause pedal pulsa-
tion, noise and shudder.
Measure rotor thickness at a minimum of six points
around the rotor face. Position the micrometer approxi-
mately 19 mm (3/4 in.) from the rotor outer circumfer-
ence for each measurement (Fig. 62).
Thickness should not vary by more than 0.0127 mm
(0.0005 in.) from point to point on the rotor. Refinish or
replace the rotor if necessary.
REAR ROTOR LATERAL RUNOUT
Check rotor lateral runout whenever diagnosis indi-
cates pedal pulsation and rapid, uneven brake lining
wear.
The rotor must be securely clamped to the hub to
ensure an accurate runout measurement. Secure the
rotor with the wheel nuts and 4 or 5 large diameter flat
washers on each stud.
Use a dial indicator to check lateral runout (Fig. 63).
Maximum allowable lateral runout is 0.76 mm (0.003 in.).
Fig. 62 Measuring Rotor Thickness Variation
1 - MICROMETER
2 - ROTOR
Fig. 63 Checking Rotor Lateral Runout
1 - DIAL INDICATOR
5 - 32 BRAKES - BASEWJ
ROTORS (Continued)
2002 WJ Service Manual
Publication No. 81-370-02064
02WJ5-32 June, 2002