2003 JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE change wheel

(12) Install cover and tighten bolts in a criss-cross
pattern to 41 N´m (30 ft. lbs.).
(13) Refill the differential with Mopar Hypoid
Gear Lubricant or equivalent to bottom of the fill
plug hole.
(14) Install fill hole plug.
(15) Remove support and lower the vehicle.
DIFFERENTIAL - TRAC-LOK
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
The most common problem is a chatter noise when
turning corners. Before removing the unit for repair,
drain, flush and refill the axle with the specified
lubricant. A container of Mopar Trac-loktLubricant
(friction modifier) should be added after repair ser-
vice or during a lubricant change.
After changing the lubricant, drive the vehicle and
make 10 to 12 slow, figure-eight turns. This maneu-
ver will pump lubricant through the clutches. This
will correct the condition in most instances. If the
chatter persists, clutch damage could have occurred.
DIFFERENTIAL TEST
The differential can be tested without removing the
differential case by measuring rotating torque. Make
sure brakes are not dragging during this measure-
ment.
(1) Place blocks in front and rear of both front
wheels.
(2) Raise one rear wheel until it is completely off
the ground.
(3) Engine off, transmission in neutral, and park-
ing brake off.
(4) Remove wheel and bolt Special Tool 6790 or
equivalent tool to studs.
(5) Use torque wrench on special tool to rotate
wheel and read rotating torque (Fig. 56).
(6) If rotating torque is less than 41 N´m (56 ft.
lbs.) or more than 271 N´m (200 ft. lbs.) on either
wheel the unit should be serviced.
DISASSEMBLY
(1) Clamp side gear Holding Fixture 6965 in a vise
and position the differential case on the Holding Fix-
ture (Fig. 57).
(2) Remove ring gear if the ring gear is to be
replaced. The Trac-loktdifferential can be serviced
with the ring gear installed.
Fig. 56 ROTATING TORQUE TEST
1 - SPECIAL TOOL WITH BOLT IN CENTER HOLE
2 - TORQUE WRENCH
Fig. 57 DIFFERENTIAL CASE FIXTURE
1 - HOLDING FIXTURE
2 - VISE
3 - DIFFERENTIAL
WJREAR AXLE - 226RBA 3 - 119
DIFFERENTIAL (Continued)

Common causes of brake drag are:
²Parking brake partially applied.
²Loose/worn wheel bearing.
²Seized caliper.
²Caliper binding.
²Loose caliper mounting.
²Mis-assembled components.
²Damaged brake lines.
If brake drag occurs at the front, rear or all
wheels, the problem may be related to a blocked mas-
ter cylinder return port, faulty power booster (binds-
does not release) or the ABS system.
BRAKE FADE
Brake fade is usually a product of overheating
caused by brake drag. However, brake overheating
and resulting fade can also be caused by riding the
brake pedal, making repeated high deceleration stops
in a short time span, or constant braking on steep
mountain roads. Refer to the Brake Drag information
in this section for causes.
BRAKE PULL
Front brake pull condition could result from:
²Contaminated lining in one caliper
²Seized caliper piston
²Binding caliper
²Loose caliper
²Rusty caliper slide surfaces
²Improper brake shoes
²Damaged rotor
²Wheel alignment.
²Tire pressure.
A worn, damaged wheel bearing or suspension compo-
nent are further causes of pull. A damaged front tire
(bruised, ply separation) can also cause pull.
A common and frequently misdiagnosed pull condi-
tion is where direction of pull changes after a few
stops. The cause is a combination of brake drag fol-
lowed by fade at one of the brake units.
As the dragging brake overheats, efficiency is so
reduced that fade occurs. Since the opposite brake
unit is still functioning normally, its braking effect is
magnified. This causes pull to switch direction in
favor of the normally functioning brake unit.
An additional point when diagnosing a change in
pull condition concerns brake cool down. Remember
that pull will return to the original direction, if the
dragging brake unit is allowed to cool down (and is
not seriously damaged).
REAR BRAKE DRAG OR PULL
Rear drag or pull may be caused by improperly
adjusted park brake shoes or seized parking brake
cables, contaminated lining, bent or binding shoes or
improperly assembled components. This is particu-
larly true when only one rear wheel is involved.However, when both rear wheels are affected, the
master cylinder or ABS system could be at fault.
BRAKES DO NOT HOLD AFTER DRIVING THROUGH DEEP
WATER PUDDLES
This condition is generally caused by water soaked
lining. If the lining is only wet, it can be dried by
driving with the brakes very lightly applied for a
mile or two. However, if the lining is both soaked and
dirt contaminated, cleaning and or replacement will
be necessary.
BRAKE LINING CONTAMINATION
Brake lining contamination is mostly a product of
leaking calipers or worn seals, driving through deep
water puddles, or lining that has become covered with
grease and grit during repair. Contaminated lining
should be replaced to avoid further brake problems.
WHEEL AND TIRE PROBLEMS
Some conditions attributed to brake components
may actually be caused by a wheel or tire problem.
A damaged wheel can cause shudder, vibration and
pull. A worn or damaged tire can also cause pull.
NOTE: Propshaft angle can also cause vibration/
shudder.
Severely worn tires with very little tread left can
produce a grab-like condition as the tire loses and
recovers traction. Flat-spotted tires can cause vibra-
tion and generate shudder during brake operation.
Tire damage such as a severe bruise, cut, ply separa-
tion, low air pressure can cause pull and vibration.
BRAKE NOISES
Some brake noise is common on some disc brakes
during the first few stops after a vehicle has been
parked overnight or stored. This is primarily due to
the formation of trace corrosion (light rust) on metal
surfaces. This light corrosion is typically cleared from
the metal surfaces after a few brake applications
causing the noise to subside.
BRAKE SQUEAK/SQUEAL
Brake squeak or squeal may be due to linings that
are wet or contaminated with brake fluid, grease, or oil.
Glazed linings and rotors with hard spots can also con-
tribute to squeak. Dirt and foreign material embedded
in the brake lining will also cause squeak/squeal.
A very loud squeak or squeal is frequently a sign of
severely worn brake lining. If the lining has worn
through to the brake shoes in spots, metal-to-metal
contact occurs. If the condition is allowed to continue,
rotors may become so scored that replacement is nec-
essary.
5 - 4 BRAKES - BASEWJ
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)

ADJUSTABLE PEDAL SWITCH
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the steering column opening cover
(Fig. 2)(Refer to 23 - BODY/INSTRUMENT PANEL/
STEERING COLUMN OPENING COVER - REMOV-
AL).
(2) Disconnect the electrical connector from the
adjustable pedal switch.
(3) Remove the switch from the steering column
opening cover by squeezing the retaining clips
together and pushing the switch outwards (Fig. 3).
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the switch to the steering column open-
ing cover by pushing the switch inwards seating the
retaining clips to the steering column opening cover
(Fig. 3).
(2) Reconnect the electrical connector to the
adjustable pedal switch.
(3) Install the steering column opening cover (Fig.
2)(Refer to 23 - BODY/INSTRUMENT PANEL/
STEERING COLUMN OPENING COVER - INSTAL-
LATION).
BRAKE LINES
DESCRIPTION
Flexible rubber hose is used at both front brakes,
rear brakes and at the rear axle junction block. Dou-
ble walled steel tubing is used. Double inverted style
and ISO style flares are used on the brake lines.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - BRAKE HOSES
AND LINES
Flexible rubber hose is used at both front and rear
brakes and at the rear axle junction block. Inspect
the hoses whenever the brake system is serviced, at
every engine oil change, or whenever the vehicle is in
for service.
Inspect the hoses for surface cracking, scuffing, or
worn spots. Replace any brake hose immediately if
the fabric casing of the hose is exposed due to cracks
or abrasions.
Also check brake hose installation. Faulty installa-
tion can result in kinked, twisted hoses, or contact
with the wheels and tires or other chassis compo-
nents. All of these conditions can lead to scuffing,
cracking and eventual failure.
The steel brake lines should be inspected periodi-
cally for evidence of corrosion, twists, kinks, leaks, or
other damage. Heavily corroded lines will eventually
rust through causing leaks. In any case, corroded or
damaged brake lines should be replaced.
Factory replacement brake lines and hoses are rec-
ommended to ensure quality, correct length and supe-
rior fatigue life. Care should be taken to make sure
that brake line and hose mating surfaces are clean
and free from nicks and burrs. Also remember that
right and left brake hoses are not interchangeable.
Use new copper gaskets at all caliper connections.
Be sure brake line connections are properly made
(not cross threaded) and tightened to recommended
torque.
Fig. 2 STEERING COLUMN OPENING COVER
REMOVAL/INSTALL
1 - INSTRUMENT PANEL TOP PAD
2 - STEERING COLUMN OPENING COVER
3 - SCREW (3)
Fig. 3 ADJUSTABLE PEDAL SWITCH
1 - RETAINING CLIPS
2 - ELECTRICAL CONNECTION
5 - 8 BRAKES - BASEWJ

tions also allows the driver to set steering wheel tilt
and seat position to the most comfortable position.
The position of the brake and accelerator pedals can
be adjusted without compromising safety or comfort
in actuating the pedals. Repositioning the pedals
does not change the effort required for actuation.
Change of pedal position is accomplished by means
of a motor driven screw. Operating the adjustable
pedal switch activates the pedal drive motor. The
pedal drive motor turns a screw that changes the
position of the brake and accelerator pedals. The
pedal can be moved rearward (closer to the driver) or
forward (away from driver). The brake pedal is
moved on its drive screw to a position where the
driver feels most comfortable (Fig. 52).
The accelerator pedal is moved at the same time
and the same distance as the brake pedal. The accel-
erator pedal adjustment screw is turned by a flexible
shaft slaved off the brake adjustment screw.
Neither the pedal drive motor nor drive mecha-
nism are subject to the mechanical stress of brake or
accelerator application.
²SYSTEM FEATURES:
²Range of Adjustment: The pedals may be
adjusted up to 3 in. (75 mm)
²Pedal Adjustment Speed: 0.5 in./sec (12.5
mm/sec)
²Pedal Adjustment Inhibitors: Pedal adjust-
ment is inhibited when the vehicle is in reverse or
when cruise control is activated.
²Memory: An optional memory feature is avail-
able. This allows storing of one or two preferred
pedal positions in the Adjustable Pedal Module
(APM). A preferred position can be stored and
recalled using the door-mounted switches. A stored
pedal position can be recalled (but not stored)
using the Remote Keyless Entry (RKE).
²
Adjustable Pedal Feedback Message: The Elec-
tronic Vehicle Information Center (EVIC) will display
a message when the APS is disabled. ie:9Adjustable
Pedal Disabled - Cruise Control Engaged9or9Adjust-
able Pedal Disabled - Vehicle in Reverse9.
²Damage Prevention: Foot pressure or debris
can stall pedal adjustment. In order to avoid dam-
age to system components during pedal adjust-
ment, the APM will monitor pedal position sensor
voltage. If the APM does not detect expected volt-
age change within 1.5 seconds, it will cut power to
the adjustable pedal motor.
OPERATION
The brake pedal is attached to the booster push
rod. When the pedal is depressed, the primary
booster push rod is depressed which moves the
booster secondary rod. The booster secondary rod
depresses the master cylinder piston.
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - NON-ADJUSTABLE PEDAL
(1) Remove retainer clip that holds booster to
pedal pin (Fig. 53).
Fig. 52 ADJUSTABLE PEDALS ASSEMBLY
1 - HARNESS
2 - ADJUSTABLE PEDAL BRACKET
3 - CABLE
4 - ACCELERATOR PEDAL
5 - BRAKE PEDAL
6 - ADJUSTABLE PEDAL MOTOR
7 - BRAKE LIGHT SWITCH
8 - ADJUSTABLE PEDALS MODULE
Fig. 53 Push Rod Retainer Clip
1 - RETAINER CLIP
2 - PUSH ROD
3 - PEDAL PIN
5 - 26 BRAKES - BASEWJ
PEDAL (Continued)

ELECTRIC BRAKE
DESCRIPTION
The electronic brake distribution (EBD) functions
like a rear proportioning valve. The EBD system uses
the ABS system to control the slip of the rear wheels
in partial braking range. The braking force of the
rear wheels is controlled electronically by using the
inlet and outlet valves located in the HCU.
OPERATION
Upon entry into EBD the inlet valve for the rear
brake circuit is switched on so that the fluid supply
from the master cylinder is shut off. In order to
decrease the rear brake pressure the outlet valve for
the rear brake circuit is pulsed. This allows fluid to
enter the low pressure accumulator (LPA) in the
HCU resulting in a drop in fluid pressure to the rear
brakes. In order to increase the rear brake pressure
the outlet valve is switched off and the inlet valve is
pulsed. This increases the pressure to the rear
brakes. This will continue until the required slip dif-
ference is obtained. At the end of EBD braking (no
brake application) the fluid in the LPA drains back to
the master cylinder by switching on the outlet valve
and draining through the inlet valve check valve. At
the same time the inlet valve is switched on to pre-
vent a hydraulic short circiut in case of another
brake application.
The EBD will remain functional during many ABS
fault modes. If the red and amber warning lamps are
illuminated the EBD may have a fault.
FRONT WHEEL SPEED
SENSOR
DESCRIPTION
A wheel speed sensor is used at each wheel. The
front sensors are mounted to the steering knuckles.
The rear sensors are mounted at the outboard end of
the axle. Tone wheels are mounted to the outboard
ends of the front and rear axle shafts. The gear type
tone wheel serves as the trigger mechanism for each
sensor.
OPERATION
The sensors convert wheel speed into a small digi-
tal signal. The CAB sends 12 volts to the sensors.
The sensor has an internal magneto resistance
bridge that alters the voltage and amperage of the
signal circuit. This voltage and amperage is changed
by magnetic induction when the toothed tone wheel
passes the wheel speed sensor. This digital signal issent to the CAB. The CAB measures the voltage and
amperage of the digital signal for each wheel.
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Remove the front wheel sensor mounting bolt
(Fig. 1).
(3) Remove the sensor from the steering knuckle.
(4) Disengage the sensor wire from the brackets
(Fig. 1)on the steering knuckle.
(5) Disconnect the sensor from the sensor harness
(Fig. 2)and (Fig. 3).
(6) Remove the sensor and wire.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the sensor on the steering knuckle.
(2) Apply Mopar Lock N' Seal or Loctitet242 to
the sensor mounting bolt. Use new sensor bolt if orig-
inal bolt is worn or damaged.
(3) Install the sensor mounting bolt and tighten
bolt to 12-14 N´m (106-124 in. lbs.).
(4) Engage the grommets on the sensor wire to the
steering knuckle brackets.
(5) Connect the sensor wire to the harness connec-
tor.
(6) Check the sensor wire routing. Be sure the
wire is clear of all chassis components and is not
twisted or kinked at any spot.
(7) Remove the support and lower vehicle.
Fig. 1 Sensor Location
1 - BRACKET
2 - BRACKET
3 - WHEEL SPEED SENSOR
4 - MOUNTING BOLT
WJBRAKES - ABS 5 - 43

G-SWITCH
DESCRIPTION
The G-switch (Fig. 4) is located under the rear
seat. The switch has directional arrow and must be
mounted with the arrow pointing towards the front
of the vehicle.
OPERATION
The switch is monitored by the CAB at all times.
The switch contains three mercury switches which
monitor vehicle deceleration rates (G-force). Sudden
changes in deceleration rates trigger the switch,
sending a signal to the CAB.
REMOVAL
(1) Fold the rear seat bottom assembly up for
access to the switch.
(2) Lift up the carpeting and disconnect the switch
harness (Fig. 5).
(3) Remove the switch mounting bolts and remove
the switch.
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: The mercury switch (inside the
G-Switch), will not function properly if the switch is
installed incorrectly. Verify that the switch locating
arrow is pointing to the front of the vehicle (Fig. 6).
(1) Note the position of the locating arrow on the
switch. Position the switch so the arrow faces for-
ward.
(2) Install the switch and tighten the mounting
bolts to 5.6 N´m (50 in. lbs.).
Fig. 2 Left Sensor Connector
1 - LEFT FRONT WHEEL SPEED SENSOR CONNECTOR
2 - ENGINE EXHAUST PIPE
3 - LEFT FRONT FRAME RAIL
4 - FRONT DRIVESHAFT
Fig. 3 Right Sensor Connector
1 - RIGHT FRONT WHEEL SPEED SENSOR CONNECTOR
2 - ENGINE EXHAUST Y-PIPE
3 - RIGHT FRONT FRAME RAIL
4 - RIGHT LOWER SUSPENSION ARM
Fig. 4 G-Switch
1 - SWITCH PART NUMBER
2 - ARROW INDICATES FRONT OF SWITCH FOR PROPER
MOUNTING
5 - 44 BRAKES - ABSWJ
FRONT WHEEL SPEED SENSOR (Continued)

(3) Connect the harness to the switch. Be sure the
harness connector is firmly seated.
(4) Place the carpet in position and fold the rear
seat back down.
REAR WHEEL SPEED SENSOR
DESCRIPTION
A wheel speed sensor is used at each wheel. The
front sensors are mounted to the steering knuckles.The rear sensors are mounted at the outboard end of
the axle. Tone wheels are mounted to the outboard
ends of the front and rear axle shafts. The gear type
tone wheel serves as the trigger mechanism for each
sensor.
OPERATION
The sensors convert wheel speed into a small digi-
tal signal. The CAB sends 12 volts to the sensors.
The sensor has an internal magneto resistance
bridge that alters the voltage and amperage of the
signal circuit. This voltage and amperage is changed
by magnetic induction when the toothed tone wheel
passes the wheel speed sensor. This digital signal is
sent to the CAB. The CAB measures the voltage and
amperage of the digital signal for each wheel.
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and fold the rear seat forward. Then
move the carpeting aside for access to the rear sensor
connectors.
(2) Disconnect the rear sensor wire at the harness
connectors (Fig. 7).
(3) Push the sensor wires and grommets through
the floorpan holes.
(4) Raise and support the vehicle.
(5) Disengage the sensor wire from the axle and
the chassis brackets and from the brake line retain-
ers.
(6) Remove the sensor mounting bolt from the rear
brake backing plate. (Fig. 8).
(7) Remove the sensor from the backing plate.
Fig. 5 G-Switch Mounting
1 - MOUNTING BOLTS
2 - CONNECTOR
3 - G-SWITCH
Fig. 6 G-Switch
1 - SWITCH PART NUMBER
2 - ARROW INDICATES FRONT OF SWITCH FOR PROPER
MOUNTING
Fig. 7 Rear Sensor Connector
1 - RIGHT REAR WHEEL SPEED SENSOR CONNECTOR
2 - LEFT REAR WHEEL SPEED SENSOR CONNECTOR
3 - G-SWITCH SENSOR
4 - PARKING BRAKE CABLES
WJBRAKES - ABS 5 - 45
G-SWITCH (Continued)

PRESSURE HOLD
Both solenoid valves are closed in the pressure
hold cycle. Fluid apply pressure in the control chan-
nel is maintained at a constant rate. The CAB main-
tains the hold cycle until sensor inputs indicate a
pressure change is necessary.
PRESSURE INCREASE
The inlet valve is open and the outlet valve is
closed during the pressure increase cycle. The pres-
sure increase cycle is used to counteract unequal
wheel speeds. This cycle controls re-application of
fluid apply pressure due to changing road surfaces or
wheel speed.
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the negative battery cable from the
battery.
(2) Remove the air cleaner housing,(Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/AIR INTAKE SYSTEM/AIR CLEANER
HOUSING - REMOVAL).
(3) Pull the CAB harness connector release up and
remove connector (Fig. 10).(4) Remove the brake lines from the HCU.
(5) Remove the HCU/CAB side mounting bolt and
the two rear mounting bolts. (Fig. 11).
(6) Remove the HCU/CAB assembly from the vehi-
cle.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install HCU/CAB assembly into the mounting
bracket and tighten mounting bolts to 12 N´m (9 ft.
lbs.).
(2) Install the brake lines to the HCU and tighten
to 16 N´m (12 ft. lbs.).
(3) Install CAB harness connector and push down
connector release.
(4) Install air cleaner housing,(Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/AIR INTAKE SYSTEM/AIR CLEANER
HOUSING - INSTALLATION).
(5) Install negative battery cable to the battery.
(6) Bleed base and ABS brake systems,(Refer to 5 -
BRAKES - STANDARD PROCEDURE) OR (Refer to
5 - BRAKES - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
Fig. 10 CAB Connector Release
1 - CONNECTOR RELEASE
2 - CAB
Fig. 11 HCU/CAB Assembly
1 - SIDE MOUNTING BOLT
2 - REAR MOUNTING BOLTS
WJBRAKES - ABS 5 - 47
HCU (HYDRAULIC CONTROL UNIT) (Continued)