REPLACING THE AIR FILTER ELEMENT
When replacing the air filter element, use the Motorcraft air filter
element listed. Refer toLubricant and maintenance materials
specificationsin this supplement.
Failure to use the correct air filter element may result in severe
engine damage.
1. Remove air filter element from the housing, taking care to prevent dirt
from falling into the engine air intake.
2. Clean the air filter housing and cover to ensure good sealing.
3. Install a new air filter element. Be careful not to crimp the filter edges
between the air filter housing and cover. This could cause damage to the
air filter element and possible severe damage to the engine.
When servicing the air filter, always be sure that the auxiliary
hose is not kinked or obstructed. Failure to do so may result in
severe engine damage when driving through deep water and/or
encountering unusually heavy precipitation conditions.
ENGINE COOLANT
Checking engine coolant
The concentration and level of engine coolant should be checked at the
mileage intervals listed in the scheduled maintenance guide. The coolant
concentration should be maintained at 50/50 coolant and water, which
equates to a freeze point of -36°C (-34°F). Coolant concentration
testing is possible with a hydrometer or antifreeze tester (such as the
Rotunda Battery and Antifreeze Tester, 014–R1060). The level of coolant
should be maintained at the“cold full”of“cold fill range”level in the
coolant reservoir. If the level falls below, add coolant per the instructions
in theAdding engine coolantsection.
Your vehicle was factory-filled with a 50/50 engine coolant and water
concentration. If the concentration of coolant falls below 40% or above
60%, the engine parts could become damaged or not work properly.A
50/50 mixture of coolant and water provides the following:
•freeze protection down to -36°C (-34°F).
•boiling protection up to 129°C (265°F).
•protection against rust and other forms of corrosion.
•enables calibrated gauges to work properly.
General maintenance information
31
IF THE ENGINE WON’T CRANK
Turn on the headlights. If the lights are dim, do not go on at all or if
when the ignition is turned to START the lights become dim or go out,
the battery connections may be loose or corroded, or the battery may be
discharged. If there is a clicking or stuttering sound coming from the
engine compartment when you turn the key to START, this may also
indicate a loose or corroded battery connection.
Check the battery connections at the battery posts, cable connection to
the engine grounding point and at the starter connection.
If a discharged battery is suspected, have it checked and corrected.
•For vehicles with manual transmissions, the clutch pedalmustbe fully
depressed in order for the starter to operate.
•For vehicles with automatic transmissions, the gearshift lever must be
in Park or Neutral in order for the starter to operate.
•Try operating the starter switch several times. Should the switch be
corroded, this operation may clean the contacts or make the switch
temporarily operable until you can reach the dealer.
•If all electrical connections are tight and you need assistance to start,
seeJump Startingin theRoadside emergencieschapter of your
owner guide.
IF ENGINE CRANKS BUT WON’T START
Prolonged starter cranking (in excess of 30 seconds) could cause
damage to the starter motor.
•Check the fuel gauge. You may be out of fuel. If the gauge shows that
there is fuel in the tank, the trouble may be in the electrical system or
the fuel system. If equipped with an auxiliary tank, be sure that the
tank control switch is set for the tank with fuel and not on an empty
tank.
•Leaving the ignition key ON for over two minutes without starting may
make starting difficult because the glow plugs will cease activation.
Reset the system by turning the ignition key to OFF and then back to
ON again.
Minor troubleshooting guide
40
