2003 DODGE RAM air filter

AIR INTAKE SYSTEM
REMOVAL
Filter Element Only
Housing removal is not necessary for element (fil-
ter) replacement.
(1) Loosen clamp (Fig. 2) and disconnect air duct
at air cleaner cover.
(2) Pry over 4 spring clips (Fig. 2) from housing
cover (spring clips retain cover to housing).
(3) Release housing cover from locating tabs on
housing (Fig. 2) and remove cover.
(4) Remove air cleaner element (filter) from hous-
ing.
(5) Clean inside of housing before replacing ele-
ment.
Housing Assembly
(1) Loosen clamp (Fig. 2) and disconnect air duct
at air cleaner cover.
(2) Lift entire housing assembly from 4 locating
pins (Fig. 3).
INSTALLATION
(1) Install filter element into housing.
(2) Position housing cover into housing locating
tabs (Fig. 2).(3) Pry up 4 spring clips (Fig. 2) and lock cover to
housing.
(4) Install air duct to air cleaner cover and tighten
hose clamp to 3 N´m (30 in. lbs.) torque.
(5) If any other hose clamps were removed from
air intake system, tighten them to 3.4 N´m (30 in.
lbs.) torque.
(6) If any bolts were removed from air resonator
housing or air intake tubing, tighten them to 4.5 N´m
(40 in. lbs.) torque.
CYLINDER HEAD
OPERATIONÐCYLINDER HEAD
The cylinder head closes the combustion chamber
allowing the pistons to compress the air fuel mixture
to the correct ratio for ignition. The valves located in
the cylinder head open and close to either allow clean
air into the combustion chamber or to allow the
exhaust gases out, depending on the stroke of the
engine.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐCYLINDER HEAD
GASKET FAILURE
A cylinder head gasket leak can be located between
adjacent cylinders or between a cylinder and the
adjacent water jacket.
²Possible indications of the cylinder head gasket
leaking between adjacent cylinders are:
Fig. 2 AIR CLEANER HOUSING COVER
1 - CLAMP
2 - AIR DUCT
3 - AIR CLEANER COVER
4 - LOCATING TABS
5 - CLIPS (4)
Fig. 3 AIR CLEANER HOUSING
1 - AIR CLEANER HOUSING ASSEMBLY
2 - LOCATING PINS (4)
9 - 194 ENGINE - 5.7LDR

ENGINE BLOCK
CLEANING
Thoroughly clean the oil pan and engine block gas-
ket surfaces.
Use compressed air to clean out:
²The galley at the oil filter adaptor hole.
²The front and rear oil galley holes.
²The feed holes for the crankshaft main bearings.
Once the block has been completely cleaned, apply
Loctite PST pipe sealant with Teflon 592 to the
threads of the front and rear oil galley plugs. Tighten
the 1/4 inch NPT plugs to 20 N´m (177 in. lbs.)
torque. Tighten the 3/8 inch NPT plugs to 27 N´m
(240 in. lbs.) torque.
INSPECTION
(1) It is mandatory to use a dial bore gauge to
measure each cylinder bore diameter. To correctly
select the proper size piston, a cylinder bore gauge,
capable of reading in 0.003 mm (.0001 in.) INCRE-
MENTS is required. If a bore gauge is not available,
do not use an inside micrometer (Fig. 7).
(2) Measure the inside diameter of the cylinder
bore at three levels below top of bore. Start perpen-
dicular (across or at 90 degrees) to the axis of the
crankshaft and then take two additional reading.(3) Measure the cylinder bore diameter crosswise
to the cylinder block near the top of the bore. Repeat
the measurement near the middle of the bore, then
repeat the measurement near the bottom of the bore.
(4) Determine taper by subtracting the smaller
diameter from the larger diameter.
(5) Rotate measuring device 90É and repeat steps
above.
(6) Determine out-of-roundness by comparing the
difference between each measurement.
(7) If cylinder bore taper does not exceed 0.025
mm (0.001 inch) and out-of-roundness does not
exceed 0.025 mm (0.001 inch), the cylinder bore can
be honed. If the cylinder bore taper or out- of-round
condition exceeds these maximum limits, the cylinder
block must be replaced. A slight amount of taper
always exists in the cylinder bore after the engine
has been in use for a period of time.
CAMSHAFT & BEARINGS (IN
BLOCK)
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - CAMSHAFT CORE HOLE PLUG
CAUTION: Do not damage the rear surface of the
camshaft or the core plug sealing surface, when
removing the core plug.
(1) Remove the rear cam bearing core plug.
REMOVAL - CAMSHAFT
(1) Remove the battery negative cable.
(2) Remove the air cleaner assembly.
(3) Drain coolant.
(4) Remove the accessory drive belt.
(5) Remove the generator.
(6) Remove the A/C compressor, and set aside
(7) Remove the radiator (Refer to 7 - COOLING/
ENGINE/RADIATOR - REMOVAL).
(8) Remove intake manifold(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
MANIFOLDS/INTAKE MANIFOLD - REMOVAL).
(9) Remove cylinder head covers(Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - REMOVAL).
(10) Remove both left and right cylinder heads(Re-
fer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD - REMOVAL).
(11) Remove the oil pan(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LU-
BRICATION/OIL PAN - REMOVAL).
(12) Remove timing case cover(Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT / CHAIN
COVER(S) - REMOVAL).
(13) Remove the oil pick up tube.
Fig. 7 BORE GAUGE-TYPICAL
1 - FRONT
2 - BORE GAUGE
3 - CYLINDER BORE
4-38MM
(1.5 in)
9 - 200 ENGINE - 5.7LDR

CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL -
REAR
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - REAR SEAL AREA
LEAKS
Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the
source of an oil leak in the rear seal area of the
engine, a more involved inspection is necessary. The
following steps should be followed to help pinpoint
the source of the leak.
If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal
area:
(1) Disconnect the battery.
(2) Raise the vehicle.
(3) Remove torque converter or clutch housing
cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil.
Use a black light to check for the oil leak:
(a) Circular spray pattern generally indicates
seal leakage or crankshaft damage.
(b) Where leakage tends to run straight down,
possible causes are a porous block, camshaft bore
cup plugs, oil galley pipe plugs, oil filter runoff,
and main bearing cap to cylinder block mating sur-
faces. See Engine, for proper repair procedures of
these items.
(4) If no leaks are detected, pressurized the crank-
case as outlined in the section, Inspection (Engine oil
Leaks in general)
CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
(5) If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the
crankshaft and watch for leakage. If a leak is
detected between the crankshaft and seal while
slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the
crankshaft seal surface is damaged. The seal area on
the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches
that can be polished out with emery cloth.
CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft
polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks or
scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is specially
machined to complement the function of the rear oil
seal.
(6) For bubbles that remain steady with shaft
rotation, no further inspection can be done until dis-
assembled. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING), under the Oil Leak row, for components
inspections on possible causes and corrections.
(7) After the oil leak root cause and appropriate
corrective action have been identified, (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/CRANKSHAFT OIL
SEAL - REAR - REMOVAL).
REMOVAL
NOTE: This procedure can be performed in vehicle.
(1) If being preformed in vehicle, remove the
transmission.
(2) Remove the flexplate (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
ENGINE BLOCK/FLEX PLATE - REMOVAL).
NOTE: The crankshaft oil seal CAN NOT be reused
after removal.
NOTE: The crankshaft rear oil seal remover Special
Tool 8506 must be installed deeply into the seal.
Continue to tighten the removal tool into the seal
until the tool can not be turned farther. Failure to
install tool correctly the first time will cause tool to
pull free of seal without removing seal from engine.
(3) Using Special Tool 8506, remove the crankshaft
rear oil seal.
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: The rear seal must be installed dry for
proper operation. Do not lubricate the seal lip or
outer edge.
(1) Position the plastic seal guide onto the crank-
shaft rear face. Then position the crankshaft rear oil
seal onto the guide.
(2) Using Special Tools 8349 Crankshaft Rear Oil
Seal Installer and C-4171 Driver Handle, with a
hammer, tap the seal into place. Continue to tap on
the driver handle until the seal installer seats
against the cylinder block crankshaft bore.
(3) Install the flexplate.
(4) Install the transmission.
CRANKSHAFT REAR OIL SEAL
RETAINER
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect negative cable from battery.
(2) Remove the transmission.
(3) Remove the drive plate / flywheel.
(4) Remove the oil pan (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LU-
BRICATION/OIL PAN - REMOVAL).
(5) Remove the rear oil seal retainer mounting
bolts.
(6) Carefully remove the retainer from the engine
block.
9 - 204 ENGINE - 5.7LDR

If an oil leak source is not readily identifiable, the
following steps should be followed:
(1) Do not clean or degrease the engine at this
time because some solvents may cause rubber to
swell, temporarily stopping the leak.
(2) Add an oil soluble dye (use as recommended by
manufacturer). Start the engine and let idle for
approximately 15 minutes. Check the oil dipstick to
make sure the dye is thoroughly mixed as indicated
with a bright yellow color under a black light.
(3) Using a black light, inspect the entire engine
for fluorescent dye, particularly at the suspected area
of oil leak. If the oil leak is found and identified,
repair per service manual instructions.
(4) If dye is not observed, drive the vehicle at var-
ious speeds for approximately 24 km (15 miles), and
repeat inspection.If the oil leak source is not pos-
itively identified at this time, proceed with the air
leak detection test method.
Air Leak Detection Test Method
(1) Remove the PCV valve from the IAFM. Cap or
plug the PCV valve grommet.
(2) Attach an air hose with pressure gauge and
regulator to the dipstick tube.
CAUTION: Do not subject the engine assembly to
more than 20.6 kPa (3 PSI) of test pressure.
(3) Gradually apply air pressure from 1 psi to 2.5
psi maximum while applying soapy water at the sus-
pected source. Adjust the regulator to the suitable
test pressure that provide the best bubbles which
will pinpoint the leak source. If the oil leak is
detected and identified, repair per service manual
procedures.
(4) If the leakage occurs at the rear oil seal area,
refer to the section, Inspection for Rear Seal Area
Leak.
(5) If no leaks are detected, turn off the air supply
and remove the air hose and all plugs and caps.
Install the PCV valve.
(6) Clean the oil off the suspect oil leak area using
a suitable solvent. Drive the vehicle at various
speeds approximately 24 km (15 miles). Inspect the
engine for signs of an oil leak by using a black light.
INSPECTION FOR REAR SEAL AREA LEAKS
Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the
source of an oil leak in the rear seal area of the
engine, a more involved inspection is necessary. The
following steps should be followed to help pinpoint
the source of the leak.
If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal
area:
(1) Disconnect the battery.
(2) Raise the vehicle.(3) Remove torque converter or clutch housing
cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil.
Use a black light to check for the oil leak:
(a) Circular spray pattern generally indicates
seal leakage or crankshaft damage.
(b) Where leakage tends to run straight down,
possible causes are a porous block, distributor seal,
camshaft bore cup plugs oil galley pipe plugs, oil
filter runoff, and main bearing cap to cylinder
block mating surfaces.
(4) If no leaks are detected, pressurize the crank-
case as outlined in the, Inspection (Engine oil Leaks
in general)
CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
(5) If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the
crankshaft and watch for leakage. If a leak is
detected between the crankshaft and seal while
slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the
crankshaft seal surface is damaged. The seal area on
the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches
that can be polished out with emery cloth.
CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft
polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks and
scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is especially
machined to complement the function of the rear oil
seal.
(6) For bubbles that remain steady with shaft
rotation, no further inspection can be done until dis-
assembled.
OIL
STANDARD PROCEDURE - ENGINE OIL
SERVICE
WARNING: NEW OR USED ENGINE OIL CAN BE
IRRITATING TO THE SKIN. AVOID PROLONGED OR
REPEATED SKIN CONTACT WITH ENGINE OIL.
CONTAMINANTS IN USED ENGINE OIL, CAUSED BY
INTERNAL COMBUSTION, CAN BE HAZARDOUS TO
YOUR HEALTH. THOROUGHLY WASH EXPOSED
SKIN WITH SOAP AND WATER. DO NOT WASH
SKIN WITH GASOLINE, DIESEL FUEL, THINNER, OR
SOLVENTS, HEALTH PROBLEMS CAN RESULT. DO
NOT POLLUTE, DISPOSE OF USED ENGINE OIL
PROPERLY.
DRENGINE - 5.7L 9 - 215
LUBRICATION (Continued)

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐENGINE DIAGNOSIS - PERFORMANCE
PERFORMANCE DIAGNOSIS CHARTÐGASOLINE ENGINES
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
ENGINE WILL NOT CRANK 1. Weak or dead battery 1. Charge/Replace Battery. (Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/BATTERY SYSTEM/
BATTERY - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
Check charging system. (Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/CHARGING - DIAGNOSIS
AND TESTING).
2. Corroded or loose battery connections 2. Clean/tighten suspect battery/starter
connections
3. Faulty starter or related circuit(s) 3. Check starting system. (Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/STARTING - DIAGNOSIS
AND TESTING)
4. Seized accessory drive component 4. Remove accessory drive belt and
attempt to start engine. If engine starts,
repair/replace seized component.
5. Engine internal mechanical failure or
hydro-static lock5. Refer to (Refer to 9 - ENGINE -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING)
ENGINE CRANKS BUT
WILL NOT START1. No spark 1. Check for spark. (Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/IGNITION CONTROL -
DESCRIPTION)
2. No fuel 2. Perform fuel pressure test, and if
necessary, inspect fuel injector(s) and
driver circuits. (Refer to 14 - FUEL
SYSTEM/FUEL DELIVERY/FUEL PUMP -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
3. Low or no engine compression 3. Perform cylinder compression pressure
test. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS
AND TESTING).
ENGINE LOSS OF POWER 1. Worn or burned distributor rotor 1. Install new distributor rotor
2. Worn distributor shaft 2. Remove and repair distributor (Refer to
8 - ELECTRICAL/IGNITION CONTROL/
DISTRIBUTOR - REMOVAL).
3. Worn or incorrect gapped spark plugs 3. Clean plugs and set gap. (Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/IGNITION CONTROL/
SPARK PLUG - CLEANING).
4. Dirt or water in fuel system 4. Clean system and replace fuel filter
5. Faulty fuel pump 5. Install new fuel pump
6. Incorrect valve timing 6. Correct valve timing
7. Blown cylinder head gasket 7. Install new cylinder head gasket
8. Low compression 8. Test cylinder compression (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
9. Burned, warped, or pitted valves 9. Install/Reface valves as necessary
10. Plugged or restricted exhaust system 10. Install new parts as necessary
11. Faulty ignition cables 11. Replace any cracked or shorted cables
9 - 226 ENGINE - 5.9LDR
ENGINE - 5.9L (Continued)

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
4. Excessive main bearing clearance 4. Measure bearings for correct
clearance. Repair as necessary
5. Excessive end play 5. Check crankshaft thrust bearing for
excessive wear on flanges
6. Crankshaft main journal out of
round or worn6. Grind journals or replace crankshaft
7. Loose flywheel or torque converter 7. Inspect crankshaft, flexplate/
flywheel and bolts for damage.
Tighten to correct torque
LOW OIL PRESSURE 1. Low oil level 1. Check oil level and fill if necessary
2. Faulty oil pressure sending unit 2. Install new sending unit
3. Clogged oil filter 3. Install new oil filter
4. Worn oil pump 4. Replace oil pump assembly.
5. Thin or diluted oil 5. Change oil to correct viscosity.
6. Excessive bearing clearance 6. Measure bearings for correct
clearance
7. Oil pump relief valve stuck 7. Remove valve to inspect, clean and
reinstall
8. Oil pickup tube loose, broken, bent
or clogged8. Inspect oil pickup tube and pump,
and clean or replace if necessary
9. Oil pump cover warped or cracked 9. Install new oil pump
OIL LEAKS 1. Misaligned or deteriorated gaskets 1. Replace gasket
2. Loose fastener, broken or porous
metal part2. Tighten, repair or replace the part
3. Front or rear crankshaft oil seal
leaking3. Replace seal
4. Leaking oil gallery plug or cup plug 4. Remove and reseal threaded plug.
Replace cup style plug
EXCESSIVE OIL CONSUMPTION OR
SPARK PLUGS OIL FOULED1. CCV System malfunction 1. (Refer to 25 - EMISSIONS
CONTROL/EVAPORATIVE
EMISSIONS - DESCRIPTION) for
correct operation
2. Defective valve stem seal(s) 2. Repair or replace seal(s)
3. Worn or broken piston rings 3. Hone cylinder bores. Install new
rings
4. Scuffed pistons/cylinder walls 4. Hone cylinder bores and replace
pistons as required
5. Carbon in oil control ring groove 5. Remove rings and de-carbon piston
6. Worn valve guides 6. Inspect/replace valve guides as
necessary
7. Piston rings fitted too tightly in
grooves7. Remove rings and check ring end
gap and side clearance. Replace if
necessary
DRENGINE - 5.9L 9 - 229
ENGINE - 5.9L (Continued)

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐENGINE DIAGNOSIS - LUBRICATION
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
OIL LEAKS 1. Gaskets and O-Rings. 1.
(a) Misaligned or damaged. (a) Replace as necessary.
(b) Loose fasteners, broken or
porous metal parts.(b) Tighten fasteners, Repair or
replace metal parts.
2. Crankshaft rear seal 2. Replace as necessary.
3. Crankshaft seal flange.
Scratched, nicked or grooved.3. Polish or replace crankshaft.
4. Oil pan flange cracked. 4. Replace oil pan.
5.Front cover seal, damaged or
misaligned.5. Replace seal.
6. Scratched or damaged vibration
damper hub.6. Polish or replace damper.
OIL PRESSURE DROP 1. Low oil level. 1. Check and correct oil level.
2. Faulty oil pressure sending unit. 2. Replace sending unit.
3. Low oil pressure. 3. Check pump and bearing
clearance.
4. Clogged oil filter. 4. Replace oil filter.
5. Worn oil pump. 5. Replace as necessary.
6. Thin or diluted oil. 6. Change oil and filter.
7. Excessive bearing clearance. 7. Replace as necessary.
8. Oil pump relief valve stuck. 8. Replace oil pump.
9. Oil pickup tube loose or
damaged.9. Replace as necessary.
OIL PUMPING AT RINGS; SPARK
PLUGS FOULING1. Worn or damaged rings. 1. Hone cylinder bores and replace
rings.
2. Carbon in oil ring slots. 2. Replace rings.
3. Incorrect ring size installed. 3. Replace rings.
4. Worn valve guides. 4. Ream guides and replace valves.
5. Leaking intake gasket. 5. Replace intake gaskets.
6. Leaking valve guide seals. 6. Replace valve guide seals.
9 - 230 ENGINE - 5.9LDR
ENGINE - 5.9L (Continued)

(1) Perform the Fuel Pressure Release Procedure
(Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL DELIVERY -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(2) Disconnect the negative cable(s) from the bat-
tery.
(3) Inspect air cleaner, induction system, and
intake manifold to ensure system is dry and clear of
foreign material.
(4) Place a shop towel around the spark plugs to
catch any fluid that may possibly be under pressure
in the cylinder head. Remove the spark plugs.
(5) With all spark plugs removed, rotate the crank-
shaft using a breaker bar and socket.
(6) Identify the fluid in the cylinders (coolant, fuel,
oil, etc.).
(7) Be sure all fluid has been removed from the
cylinders.
(8) Repair engine or components as necessary to
prevent this problem from occurring again.
(9) Squirt a small amount of engine oil into the
cylinders to lubricate the walls. This will prevent
damage on restart.
(10) Install new spark plugs. Tighten the spark
plugs to 41 N´m (30 ft. lbs.) torque.
(11) Drain engine oil. Remove and discard the oil
filter.
(12) Install the drain plug. Tighten the plug to 34
N´m (25 ft. lbs.) torque.
(13) Install a new oil filter.
(14) Fill engine crankcase with the specified
amount and grade of oil. (Refer to LUBRICATION &
MAINTENANCE - SPECIFICATIONS).
(15) Connect the negative cable(s) to the battery.
(16) Start the engine and check for any leaks.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - CYLINDER BORE
HONING
Before honing, stuff plenty of clean shop towels
under the bores and over the crankshaft to keep
abrasive materials from entering the crankshaft
area.
(1) Used carefully, the Cylinder Bore Sizing Hone
C-823, equipped with 220 grit stones, is the best tool
for this job. In addition to deglazing, it will reduce
taper and out-of-round, as well as removing light
scuffing, scoring and scratches. Usually, a few strokes
will clean up a bore and maintain the required lim-
its.
CAUTION: DO NOT use rigid type hones to remove
cylinder wall glaze.
(2) Deglazing of the cylinder walls may be done if
the cylinder bore is straight and round. Use a cylin-
der surfacing hone, Honing Tool C-3501, equipped
with 280 grit stones (C-3501-3810). about 20-60strokes, depending on the bore condition, will be suf-
ficient to provide a satisfactory surface. Using honing
oil C-3501-3880, or a light honing oil, available from
major oil distributors.
CAUTION: DO NOT use engine or transmission oil,
mineral spirits, or kerosene.
(3) Honing should be done by moving the hone up
and down fast enough to get a crosshatch pattern.
The hone marks should INTERSECT at 40É to 60É
for proper seating of rings (Fig. 3).
(4) A controlled hone motor speed between 200 and
300 RPM is necessary to obtain the proper cross-
hatch angle. The number of up and down strokes per
minute can be regulated to get the desired 40É to 60É
angle. Faster up and down strokes increase the cross-
hatch angle.
(5) After honing, it is necessary that the block be
cleaned to remove all traces of abrasive. Use a brush
to wash parts with a solution of hot water and deter-
gent. Dry parts thoroughly. Use a clean, white, lint-
free cloth to check that the bore is clean. Oil the
bores after cleaning to prevent rusting.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the battery negative cable.
(2) Drain cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
Fig. 3 Cylinder Bore Crosshatch Pattern
1 - CROSSHATCH PATTERN
2 - INTERSECT ANGLE
DRENGINE - 5.9L 9 - 233
ENGINE - 5.9L (Continued)