2003 DODGE RAM wheel

(11) Install the flywheel housing and bolts. Torque
bolts to 77 N´m (57 ft. lbs.).
(12) Install the flywheel or converter drive plate.
Tighten bolts to 137 N´m (101 ft. lbs.).
(13) Install the starter motor and torque to 43 N´m
(21 ft. lbs.)(Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/STARTING/
STARTER MOTOR - INSTALLATION).
(14) Install the transmission and transfer case (if
equipped).
(15) Lower vehicle.
(16) Fill the crankcase with new engine oil.
(17) Connect the battery negative cables.
(18) Start engine and check for oil leaks.
SOLID LIFTERS/TAPPETS
REMOVAL
NOTE: This procedure requires use of Miller Tool
8502 Tappet Replacement Kit.
(1) Remove camshaft (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/EN-
GINE BLOCK/CAMSHAFT & BEARINGS (IN
BLOCK) - REMOVAL).
(2) Insert the trough (provided with tool kit) the
full length of the camshaft bore (Fig. 79). Make sure
the cap end goes in first and the open side faces up
(towards tappets).
(3)Remove only one tappet at a time.Remove
rubber band from one cylinder pair and attach tappet
dowel not being removed to the next cylinder pair
(Fig. 80).
Fig. 79 Inserting the Trough - Typical
1 - TROUGH
Fig. 80 Secure Dowel/Tappet to Adjacent Cylinder -
typical
Fig. 77 Installing Seal Using Alignment Tool and
Hammer
1 - SEAL PILOT TOOL
2 - INSTALLATION TOOL
3 - SEAL
4 - RETAINER
Fig. 78 Trimming Excess Gasket Material
1 - GASKET
DRENGINE 5.9L DIESEL 9 - 327
CRANKSHAFT REAR OIL SEAL RETAINER (Continued)

OIL COOLER & LINES
CLEANING
CLEANING AND INSPECTION
Clean the sealing surfaces.
Apply 483 kPa (70 psi) air pressure to the element
to check for leaks. If the element leaks, replace the
element.
OIL FILTER
REMOVAL
(1) Clean the area around the oil filter head.
Remove the filter from below using a cap-style filter
wrench.
(2) Clean the gasket surface of the filter head. The
filter canister O-Ring seal can stick on the filter
head. Make sure it is removed.
INSTALLATION
(1) Fill the oil filter element with clean oil before
installation. Use the same type oil that will be used
in the engine.
(2) Apply a light film of lubricating oil to the seal-
ing surface before installing the filter.
CAUTION: Mechanical over-tightening may distort
the threads or damage the filter element seal.
(3) Install the filter until it contacts the sealing
surface of the oil filter adapter. Tighten filter an
additional
1¤2turn.
OIL PAN
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the battery negative cables.
(2) Install engine support fixture # 8534.
(3) Raise vehicle on hoist.
(4) Disconnect starter cables from starter motor.
(5) Remove starter motor (Refer to 8 - ELECTRI-
CAL/STARTING/STARTER MOTOR - REMOVAL)
and transmission adapter plate assembly.
(6) Remove transmission and transfer case (if
equipped).
(7) Remove flywheel or flexplate.
(8) Remove the transmission adapter plate.
WARNING: HOT OIL CAN CAUSE PERSONAL
INJURY.
(9) Drain the engine oil (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LU-
BRICATION/OIL - STANDARD PROCEDURE).(10) Install the oil pan drain plug if sealing sur-
face is not damaged and tighten to 50 N´m (57 ft.
lbs.) torque.
(11) Remove oil pan bolts, break the pan to block
seal, and lower pan slightly and remove oil suction
tube fasteners.
(12) Remove oil pan and suction tube.
CLEANING
Remove all gasket material from the oil pan and
cylinder block sealing surfaces. Extra effort may be
required around T-joint areas. Clean oil pan and
flush suction tube with a suitable solvent.
INSPECTION
Inspect the oil pan, suction tube, and tube braces
for cracks and damage. Replace any defective compo-
nent. Inspect the oil drain plug and drain hole
threads. Inspect the oil pan sealing surface for
straightness. Repair any minor imperfections with a
ball-peen hammer. Do not attempt to repair an oil
pan by welding.
INSTALLATION
(1) Fill the T-joint between the pan rail/gear hous-
ing and pan rail/rear seal retainer with sealant. Use
MopartSilicone Rubber Adhesive Sealant or equiva-
lent.
(2) Place suction tube in oil pan and guide them
into place. Using a new tube to block gasket, install
and tighten the suction tube bolts by hand. Starting
with the oil pump inlet bolts, tighten the bolts to 24
N´m (18 ft. lbs.) torque. Tighten the remaining tube
brace bolts to 43 N´m (32 ft. lbs.) torque.
(3) Starting in the center and working outward,
tighten the oil pan bolts to 28 N´m (21 ft. lbs.)
torque.
(4) Install the flywheel housing assembly with the
starter motor attached and tighten bolts to 77 N´m
(57 ft. lbs.) torque.
(5) Connect starter motor cables.
(6) Install the flywheel or flexplate. Torque to 137
N´m (101 ft. lbs.).
(7) Install transmission and transfer case (if
equipped).
(8) Lower vehicle.
(9) Remove the engine support fixture # 8534.
(10) Install battery negative cables.
(11) Fill the crankcase with new engine oil.
(12) Start engine and check for leaks. Stop engine,
check oil level, and adjust, if necessary.
9 - 342 ENGINE 5.9L DIESELDR

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
4. Excessive main bearing clearance 4. Measure bearings for correct
clearance. Repair as necessary
5. Excessive end play 5. Check crankshaft thrust bearing for
excessive wear on flanges
6. Crankshaft main journal out of round
or worn6. Grind journals or replace crankshaft
7. Loose flywheel or torque converter 7. Inspect crankshaft, flexplate/flywheel
and bolts for damage. Tighten to correct
torque
LOW OIL PRESSURE 1. Low oil level 1. Check oil level and fill if necessary
2. Faulty oil pressure sending unit 2. Install new sending unit
3. Clogged oil filter 3. Install new oil filter
4. Worn oil pump 4. Replace oil pump assembly.
5. Thin or diluted oil 5. Change oil to correct viscosity.
6. Excessive bearing clearance 6. Measure bearings for correct
clearance
7. Oil pump relief valve stuck 7. Remove valve to inspect, clean and
reinstall
8. Oil pickup tube loose, broken, bent or
clogged8. Inspect oil pickup tube and pump, and
clean or replace if necessary
9. Oil pump cover warped or cracked 9. Install new oil pump
OIL LEAKS 1. Misaligned or deteriorated gaskets 1. Replace gasket
2. Loose fastener, broken or porous
metal part2. Tighten, repair or replace the part
3. Front or rear crankshaft oil seal
leaking3. Replace seal
4. Leaking oil gallery plug or cup plug 4. Remove and reseal threaded plug.
Replace cup style plug
EXCESSIVE OIL
CONSUMPTION OR
SPARK PLUGS OIL
FOULED1. CCV System malfunction 1. (Refer to 25 - EMISSIONS
CONTROL/EVAPORATIVE EMISSIONS
- DESCRIPTION) for correct operation
2. Defective valve stem seal(s) 2. Repair or replace seal(s)
3. Worn or broken piston rings 3. Hone cylinder bores. Install new rings
4. Scuffed pistons/cylinder walls 4. Hone cylinder bores and replace
pistons as required
5. Carbon in oil control ring groove 5. Remove rings and de-carbon piston
6. Worn valve guides 6. Inspect/replace valve guides as
necessary
7. Piston rings fitted too tightly in
grooves7. Remove rings and check ring end gap
and side clearance. Replace if
necessary
DRENGINE 8.0L 9 - 357
ENGINE 8.0L (Continued)

CRANKSHAFT REAR OIL SEAL
RETAINER
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect negative cable from battery.
(2) Remove the transmission.
(3) Remove the drive plate / flywheel.
(4) Remove the oil pan (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LU-
BRICATION/OIL PAN - REMOVAL).
(5) Remove the rear oil seal retainer mounting
bolts.
(6) Carefully remove the retainer from the engine
block.
INSTALLATION
(1) Throughly clean all gasket resdue from the
engine block.
(2) Use extream care and clean all gasket resdue
from the retainer.
(3) Apply a small amount of MopartSilicone Rub-
ber Adhesive Sealant to the retainer gasket. Position
the gasket onto the retainer.
(4) Position Special Tool 6687 Seal Guide onto the
crankshaft.
(5) Position the retainer and seal over the guide
and onto the engine block.
(6) Install the retainer mounting bolts. Tighten the
bolts to 22 N´m (16 ft. lbs.).
(7) Install the oil pan (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LU-
BRICATION/OIL PAN - INSTALLATION).
(8) Install the drive plate / flywheel.
(9) Install the transmission.
(10) Check and verify engine oil level.
(11) Start engine and check for leaks.
HYDRAULIC LIFTERS
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐHYDRAULIC
TAPPETS
Before disassembling any part of the engine to cor-
rect tappet noise, check the oil pressure. If vehicle
has no oil pressure gauge, install a reliable gauge at
the pressure sending-unit. The pressure should be
between 207-552 kPa (30-80 psi) at 3,000 RPM.
Check the oil level after the engine reaches normal
operating temperature. Allow 5 minutes to stabilize
oil level, check dipstick. The oil level in the pan
should never be above the FULL mark or below the
ADD OIL mark on dipstick. Either of these two con-
ditions could be responsible for noisy tappets.
OIL LEVEL
HIGH
If oil level is above the FULL mark, it is possible
for the connecting rods to dip into the oil. With the
engine running, this condition could create foam in
the oil pan. Foam in oil pan would be fed to the
hydraulic tappets by the oil pump causing them to
lose length and allow valves to seat noisily.
LOW
Low oil level may allow oil pump to take in air.
When air is fed to the tappets, they lose length,
which allows valves to seat noisily. Any leaks on
intake side of oil pump through which air can be
drawn will create the same tappet action. Check the
lubrication system from the intake strainer to the
pump cover, including the relief valve retainer cap.
When tappet noise is due to aeration, it may be
intermittent or constant, and usually more than one
tappet will be noisy. When oil level and leaks have
been corrected, operate the engine at fast idle. Run
engine for a sufficient time to allow all of the air
inside the tappets to be bled out.
TAPPET NOISE DIAGNOSIS
(1) To determine source of tappet noise, operate
engine at idle with cylinder head covers removed.
(2) Feel each valve spring or rocker arm to detect
noisy tappet. The noisy tappet will cause the affected
spring and/or rocker arm to vibrate or feel rough in
operation.
NOTE: Worn valve guides or cocked springs are
sometimes mistaken for noisy tappets. If such is
the case, noise may be dampened by applying side
thrust on the valve spring. If noise is not apprecia-
bly reduced, it can be assumed the noise is in the
tappet. Inspect the rocker arm push rod sockets
and push rod ends for wear.
(3) Valve tappet noise ranges from light noise to a
heavy click. A light noise is usually caused by exces-
sive leak-down around the unit plunger, or by the
plunger partially sticking in the tappet body cylinder.
The tappet should be replaced. A heavy click is
caused by a tappet check valve not seating, or by for-
eign particles wedged between the plunger and the
tappet body. This will cause the plunger to stick in
the down position. This heavy click will be accompa-
nied by excessive clearance between the valve stem
and rocker arm as valve closes. In either case, tappet
assembly should be removed for inspection and clean-
ing.
9 - 386 ENGINE 8.0LDR

²Improved operating economy
²Altitude compensation
²Noise reduction.
The turbocharger also uses a wastegate (Fig. 16),
which regulates intake manifold air pressure and
prevents over boosting at high engine speeds. When
the wastegate valve is closed, all of the exhaust gases
flow through the turbine wheel. As the intake mani-
fold pressure increases, the wastegate actuator opens
the valve, diverting some of the exhaust gases away
from the turbine wheel. This limits turbine shaft
speed and air output from the impeller.
The turbocharger is lubricated by engine oil that is
pressurized, cooled, and filtered. The oil is delivered
to the turbocharger by a supply line that is tapped
into the oil filter head. The oil travels into the bear-
ing housing, where it lubricates the shaft and bear-
ings (Fig. 17). A return pipe at the bottom of the
bearing housing, routes the engine oil back to the
crankcase.
The most common turbocharger failure is bearing
failure related to repeated hot shutdowns with inade-
quate ªcool-downº periods. A sudden engine shut downafter prolonged operation will result in the transfer of
heat from the turbine section of the turbocharger to
the bearing housing. This causes the oil to overheat
and break down, which causes bearing and shaft dam-
age the next time the vehicle is started.
Letting the engine idle after extended operation
allows the turbine housing to cool to normal operat-
ing temperature. The following chart should be used
as a guide in determining the amount of engine idle
time required to sufficiently cool down the turbo-
charger before shut down, depending upon the type
of driving and the amount of cargo.
Fig. 15 Turbocharger Wastegate Actuator
1 - TURBOCHARGER
2 - DIAPHRAGM
3 - WASTE GATE ACTUATOR
Fig. 16 Wastegate Operation
1 - SIGNAL LINE
2 - EXHAUST BYPASS VALVE
3 - WASTEGATE
4 - EXHAUST
5 - TURBINE
11 - 12 EXHAUST SYSTEMDR
TURBOCHARGER (Continued)

(9) If the turbocharger is not to be installed imme-
diately, cover the opening to prevent material from
entering into the manifold.
(10) If replacing the turbocharger, transfer the
compressor outlet and clamp to the new assembly.
(11) Clean and inspect the sealing surface.
CAUTION: The turbocharger is only serviced as an
assembly. Do not attempt to repair the turbocharger
as turbocharger and/or engine damage can result.
CLEANING
Clean the turbocharger and exhaust manifold
mounting surfaces with a suitable scraper.
INSPECTION
Visually inspect the turbocharger and exhaust
manifold gasket surfaces. Replace stripped or eroded
mounting studs.
(1) Visually inspect the turbocharger for cracks.
The following cracks are NOT acceptable:
²Cracks in the turbine and compressor housing
that go completely through.
²Cracks in the mounting flange that are longer
than 15 mm (0.6 in.).
²Cracks in the mounting flange that intersect
bolt through-holes.
²Two (2) Cracks in the mounting flange that are
closer than 6.4 mm (0.25 in.) together.
(2) Visually inspect the impeller and compressor
wheel fins for nicks, cracks, or chips. Note: Some
impellers may have a factory placed paint mark
which, after normal operation, appears to be a crack.
Remove this mark with a suitable solvent to verify
that it is not a crack.
(3) Visually inspect the turbocharger compressor
housing for an impeller rubbing condition (Fig. 20).
Replace the turbocharger if the condition exists.
(4) Measure the turbocharger axial end play:
(a) Install a dial indicator as shown in (Fig. 21).
Zero the indicator at one end of travel.
(b) Move the impeller shaft fore and aft and
record the measurement. Allowable end play is
0.026 mm (0.0001 in.) MIN. and 0.127 mm (0.005
in.) MAX. If the recorded measurement falls out-
side these parameters, replace the turbocharger
assembly.
(5) Measure the turbocharger bearing radial clear-
ance:
(a) Insert a narrow blade or wire style feeler
gauge between the compressor wheel and the hous-
ing (Fig. 22).
(b) Gently push the compressor wheel toward
the housing and record the clearance.(c) With the feeler gauge in the same location,
gently push the compressor wheel away from the
housing and again record the clearance.
(d) Subtract the smaller clearance from the
larger clearance. This is the radial bearing clear-
ance.
(e) Allowable radial bearing clearance is 0.33
mm (0.013 in.) MIN. and 0.50 mm (0.020 in.) MAX.
If the recorded measurement falls outside these
specifications, replace the turbocharger assembly.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the turbocharger. Apply anti-seize to the
studs and then tighten the turbocharger mounting
nuts to 43 N´m (32 ft. lbs.) torque.
(2) Install the oil drain tube to the turbocharger
(Fig. 19). Tighten the drain tube bolts to 24 N´m (18
ft. lbs.) torque.
Fig. 20 Inspect Compressor Housing for Impeller
Rubbing Condition
Fig. 21 Measure Turbocharger Axial End Play
11 - 14 EXHAUST SYSTEMDR
TURBOCHARGER (Continued)

FRONT AIR DAM
REMOVAL
(1) Using a trim stick C-4755 or equivalent,
remove the fog lamp trim bezels. (Fig. 1)
(2) Remove the air dam screws through the fog
lamp opening (1 per side).
(3) Remove the two outboard screws.
(4) Remove the three middle screws and remove
the air dam.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the air dam onto the bumper and seat
the carrot type fasteners fully.
(2) Starting at the center screw install the three
middle screws.
(3) Install the screws through the fog lamp open-
ing.
(4) Install the two outboard screws.
(5) Position the fog lamp trim bezels into the
bumper and seat fully.
FRONT BUMPER
REMOVAL
(1) Using a grease pencil or equivalent, mark the
position of the bumper on the frame rail tip to aid
installation.
(2) Disconnect the fog lamp electrical connector at
the left frame rail.
(3) Support the bumper with a suitable lifting
device.
(4) Remove the center bracket nuts and bolts and
remove bumper. (Fig. 2)
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the bumper onto the frame rails and
position the wheelhouse splash shield into the sup-
port brackets.
(2) Install the bolts and nuts.
(3) Line up the bumper with the marks made pre-
viously and tighten the bolts and nuts to 95 N´m (70
ft. lbs.).
(4) Check and adjust the bumper alignment as
necessary. (Refer to 23 - BODY/BODY STRUCTURE/
GAP AND FLUSH - SPECIFICATIONS)
Fig. 1 FOG LAMP BEZEL
1 - BUMPER
2 - BEZEL
Fig. 2 BUMPER SUPPORT BRACKET - TYPICAL
1 - FASCIA - SPORT MODEL
2 - SUPPORT BRACKET
3 - FASCIA SUPPORT BRACKET
4 - WHEELHOUSE SPLASH SHIELD SUPPORT BRACKET
5 - BUMPER CENTER BRACKET
6 - NUTS (4 PER SIDE)
7 - FRAME RAIL TIP
8 - CENTER BRACKET NUTS (2 PER SIDE)
9 - CENTER BRACKET BOLTS ASSEMBLY (1 PER SIDE)
10 - FOG LAMP
13 - 2 FRAMES & BUMPERSDR

FRONT FASCIA
REMOVAL
ST/SLT/SLT+ - FASCIA REMOVAL
(1) Remove the two screws at each trailing edge of
the fascia. (Fig. 3)
(2) Using a trim stick C-4755 or equivalent, care-
fully release the six lower clips and remove the close
out panel.
(3) Using a trim stick C-4755 or equivalent, care-
fully remove the step pad.
(4) Remove and discard the four push pin fasten-
ers and remove the fascia.
SPORT FASCIA REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support the vehicle. (Refer to
LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE/HOISTING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE)
(2) Remove the three screws at each trailing edge
of the fascia. (Fig. 4)
(3) Remove the five lower screws.
(4) Remove and discard the four upper push pins.
(5) Using a trim stick C-4755 or equivalent, care-
fully release the six lower clips and remove the close
out panel.
(6) Using a trim stick C-4755 or equivalent, care-
fully remove the step pad.
(7) Spread the fascia out at the wheels and remove
from the vehicle.
INSTALLATION
NOTE: The left and right inboard bumper to bracket
attachments must be secured before installing the
fascia and step pad.
ST/SLT/SLT+ FASCIA INSTALLATION
(1) Install the fascia.
(2) Position the close out panel and seat the 6
lower clips fully.
(3) Install four new upper push pin fasteners.
(4) Position the step pad onto the fascia and fully
seat the attachment clips.
(5) Align the fascia to the fender with a 19 mm
(0.75 inch) gap and install the two screws at each
trailing edge of the fascia.
SPORT FASCIA INSTALLATION
(1) Position the fascia onto the bumper.
(2) Position the step pad onto the fascia and fully
seat the attachment clips.
(3) Install four new upper push pin fasteners.
(4) Install the five lower screws.
(5) Install the three screws at each trailing edge of
the fascia.
Fig. 3 UPPER FASCIA - ST/SLT/SLT+
1 - STEP PAD
2 - UPPER FASCIA (ST/SLT/SLT+ MODEL ONLY)
3 - INBOARD BUMPER BRACKET ATTACHMENTS
4 - SCREWS (4)
5 - PUSH PIN FASTENERS (4)
Fig. 4 SPORT FASCIA
1 - STEP PAD
2 - FASCIA (SPORT MODEL ONLY)
3 - SCREWS (3 PER SIDE)
4 - UPPER FASCIA SUPPORT BRACKET
5 - WHEELHOUSE SPLASH SHIELD BRACKET
6 - INBOARD BUMPER BRACKET ATTACHMENTS
7 - PUSH PIN FASTENERS (4)
8 - LOWER SCREWS (5)
DRFRAMES & BUMPERS 13 - 3