2003 DODGE RAM lug pattern

CAUTION: Never use compressed air to flush the
washer system plumbing. Compressed air pres-
sures are too great for the washer system plumbing
components and will result in further system dam-
age. Never use sharp instruments to clear a
plugged washer nozzle or damage to the nozzle ori-
fice and improper nozzle spray patterns will result.
INSPECTION - WIPER & WASHER SYSTEM
WIPER SYSTEM
The wiper blades and wiper arms should be
inspected periodically, not just when wiper perfor-
mance problems are experienced. This inspection
should include the following points:
(1) Inspect the wiper arms for any indications of
damage, or contamination. If the wiper arms are con-
taminated with any foreign material, clean them as
required. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/WIPERS/
WASHERS - CLEANING). If a wiper arm is damaged
or corrosion is evident, replace the wiper arm with a
new unit. Do not attempt to repair a wiper arm that
is damaged or corroded.
(2) Carefully lift the wiper blade off of the glass.
Note the action of the wiper arm hinge. The wiper
arm should pivot freely at the hinge, but with no lat-
eral looseness evident. If there is any binding evident
in the wiper arm hinge, or there is evident lateral
play in the wiper arm hinge, replace the wiper arm.
CAUTION: Do not allow the wiper arm to spring
back against the glass without the wiper blade in
place or the glass may be damaged.
(3) Once proper hinge action of the wiper arm is
confirmed, check the hinge for proper spring tension.
Remove the wiper blade from the wiper arm. Either
place a small postal scale between the blade end of
the wiper arm and the glass, or carefully lift the
blade end of the arm away from the glass using a
small fish scale. Compare the scale readings between
the right and left wiper arms. Replace a wiper arm if
it has comparatively lower spring tension, as evi-
denced by a lower scale reading.
(4) Inspect the wiper blades and squeegees for any
indications of damage, contamination, or rubber dete-
rioration (Fig. 2). If the wiper blades or squeegees
are contaminated with any foreign material, clean
them and the glass as required. (Refer to 8 - ELEC-
TRICAL/WIPERS/WASHERS - CLEANING). After
cleaning the wiper blade and the glass, if the wiper
blade still fails to clear the glass without smearing,
streaking, chattering, hazing, or beading, replace the
wiper blade. Also, if a wiper blade is damaged or the
squeegee rubber is damaged or deteriorated, replacethe wiper blade with a new unit. Do not attempt to
repair a wiper blade that is damaged.
WASHER SYSTEM
The washer system components should be
inspected periodically, not just when washer perfor-
mance problems are experienced. This inspection
should include the following points:
(1) Check for ice or other foreign material in the
washer reservoir. If contaminated, clean and flush
the washer system. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/WIP-
ERS/WASHERS - CLEANING).
(2) Inspect the washer plumbing for pinched, leak-
ing, deteriorated, or incorrectly routed hoses and
damaged or disconnected hose fittings. Replace dam-
aged or deteriorated hoses and hose fittings. Leaking
washer hoses can sometimes be repaired by cutting
the hose at the leak and splicing it back together
using an in-line connector fitting. Similarly, sections
of deteriorated hose can be cut out and replaced by
splicing in new sections of hose using in-line connec-
tor fittings. Whenever routing a washer hose or a
wire harness containing a washer hose, it must be
routed away from hot, sharp, or moving parts. Also,
sharp bends that might pinch the washer hose must
be avoided.
Fig. 2 Wiper Blade Inspection
1 - WORN OR UNEVEN EDGES
2 - ROAD FILM OR FOREIGN MATERIAL DEPOSITS
3 - HARD, BRITTLE, OR CRACKED
4 - DEFORMED OR FATIGUED
5 - SPLIT
6 - DAMAGED SUPPORT COMPONENTS
DRWIPERS/WASHERS 8R - 7
WIPERS/WASHERS (Continued)

CHECK VALVE
DESCRIPTION
A single washer system check valve is standard
equipment on this model, and is installed in the
washer system plumbing (Fig. 3). The check valve is
integral to the washer nozzle plumbing wye fitting
located in the cowl plenum area beneath the cowl
plenum cover/grille panel near the base of the wind-
shield. The check valve consists of a molded plastic
body with a raised arrowhead molded into its center
section that indicates the direction of the flow
through the valve, and three barbed hose nipples
formed in a wye configuration on the outside circum-
ference of the center section of the valve body. The
check valve cannot be adjusted or repaired and, if
faulty or damaged, it must be replaced.
OPERATION
The check valve provides more than one function
in this application. It serves as a wye connector fit-
ting between the engine compartment and washer
nozzle sections of the washer supply hose. It prevents
washer fluid from draining out of the washer supply
hoses back to the washer reservoir. This drain-back
would result in a lengthy delay from when the
washer switch is actuated until washer fluid was dis-
pensed through the washer nozzles, because the
washer pump would have to refill the washer plumb-
ing from the reservoir to the nozzles. Such a drain-
back condition could also result in water, dirt, or
other outside contaminants being siphoned into the
washer system through the washer nozzle orifice.
This water could subsequently freeze and plug thenozzle, while other contaminants could interfere with
proper nozzle operation and cause improper nozzle
spray patterns. In addition, the check valve prevents
washer fluid from siphoning through the washer noz-
zles after the washer system is turned Off.
When the washer pump pressurizes and pumps
washer fluid from the reservoir through the washer
plumbing, the fluid pressure unseats a diaphragm
from over a sump well within the valve by overriding
the spring pressure applied to it by a piston (Fig. 4).
With the diaphragm unseated, washer fluid is
allowed to flow toward the two washer nozzles. When
the washer pump stops operating, the spring pres-
sure on the piston seats the diaphragm over the
sump well in the valve and fluid flow in either direc-
tion within the washer plumbing is prevented. The
check valve cannot be adjusted or repaired and, if
faulty or damaged, it must be replaced.REMOVAL
(1) Remove both wiper arms from the wiper pivots.
(Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/WIPERS/WASHERS/
WIPER ARM - REMOVAL).
(2) Unlatch and open the hood.
(3) Remove the cowl plenum cover/grille panel
from over the cowl plenum. (Refer to 23 - BODY/EX-
TERIOR/COWL GRILLE - REMOVAL).
(4) From the underside of the cowl plenum cover/
grille panel, disconnect the cowl plenum and washer
nozzle hoses from the three barbed nipples of the
check valve (Fig. 5).
(5) Remove the check valve from the underside of
the cowl plenum cover/grille panel.
Fig. 3 Check Valve
1 - INLET NIPPLE
2 - CHECK VALVE
3 - OUTLET NIPPLE (2)
4 - FLOW DIRECTION ARROW
Fig. 4 Check Valve
1 - SPRING
2 - PISTON
3 - DIAPHRAGM
4 - TO WASHER NOZZLE
5 - FROM WASHER PUMP
8R - 8 WIPERS/WASHERSDR

(2) Deglazing of the cylinder walls may be done if
the cylinder bore is straight and round. Use a cylin-
der surfacing hone, Honing Tool C-3501, equipped
with 280 grit stones (C-3501-3810). about 20-60
strokes, depending on the bore condition, will be suf-
ficient to provide a satisfactory surface. Using honing
oil C-3501-3880, or a light honing oil, available from
major oil distributors.
CAUTION: DO NOT use engine or transmission oil,
mineral spirits, or kerosene.
(3) Honing should be done by moving the hone up
and down fast enough to get a crosshatch pattern.
The hone marks should INTERSECT at 50É to 60É
for proper seating of rings (Fig. 29).
(4) A controlled hone motor speed between 200 and
300 RPM is necessary to obtain the proper cross-
hatch angle. The number of up and down strokes per
minute can be regulated to get the desired 50É to 60É
angle. Faster up and down strokes increase the cross-
hatch angle.
(5) After honing, it is necessary that the block be
cleaned to remove all traces of abrasive. Use a brush
to wash parts with a solution of hot water and deter-
gent. Dry parts thoroughly. Use a clean, white, lint-
free cloth to check that the bore is clean. Oil the
bores after cleaning to prevent rusting.CLEANING
Thoroughly clean the oil pan and engine block gas-
ket surfaces.
Use compressed air to clean out:
²The galley at the oil filter adaptor hole.
²The front and rear oil galley holes.
²The feed holes for the crankshaft main bearings.
Once the block has been completely cleaned, apply
Loctite PST pipe sealant with Teflon 592 to the
threads of the front and rear oil galley plugs. Tighten
the 1/4 inch NPT plugs to 20 N´m (177 in. lbs.)
torque. Tighten the 3/8 inch NPT plugs to 27 N´m
(240 in. lbs.) torque.
INSPECTION
(1) It is mandatory to use a dial bore gauge to
measure each cylinder bore diameter. To correctly
select the proper size piston, a cylinder bore gauge,
capable of reading in 0.003 mm (.0001 in.) INCRE-
MENTS is required. If a bore gauge is not available,
do not use an inside micrometer (Fig. 30).
(2) Measure the inside diameter of the cylinder
bore at three levels below top of bore. Start perpen-
dicular (across or at 90 degrees) to the axis of the
crankshaft and then take two additional reading.
(3) Measure the cylinder bore diameter crosswise
to the cylinder block near the top of the bore. Repeat
the measurement near the middle of the bore, then
repeat the measurement near the bottom of the bore.
Fig. 29 CYLINDER BORE CROSSHATCH PATTERN
1 - CROSSHATCH PATTERN
2 - INTERSECT ANGLE
Fig. 30 BORE GAUGE-TYPICAL
1 - FRONT
2 - BORE GAUGE
3 - CYLINDER BORE
4 - 38 MM (1.5 in)
9 - 38 ENGINE - 3.7LDR
ENGINE BLOCK (Continued)

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐENGINE OIL LEAK
Begin with a thorough visual inspection of the
engine, particularly at the area of the suspected leak.
If an oil leak source is not readily identifiable, the
following steps should be followed:
(1) Do not clean or degrease the engine at this
time because some solvents may cause rubber to
swell, temporarily stopping the leak.
(2) Add an oil soluble dye (use as recommended by
manufacturer). Start the engine and let idle for
approximately 15 minutes. Check the oil dipstick to
make sure the dye is thoroughly mixed as indicated
with a bright yellow color under a black light.
(3) Using a black light, inspect the entire engine
for fluorescent dye, particularly at the suspected area
of oil leak. If the oil leak is found and identified,
repair per service manual instructions.
(4) If dye is not observed, drive the vehicle at var-
ious speeds for approximately 24 km (15 miles), and
repeat inspection.If the oil leak source is not pos-
itively identified at this time, proceed with the air
leak detection test method.
Air Leak Detection Test Method
(1) Disconnect the breather cap to air cleaner hose
at the breather cap end. Cap or plug breather cap
nipple.
(2) Remove the PCV valve from the cylinder head
cover. Cap or plug the PCV valve grommet.
(3) Attach an air hose with pressure gauge and
regulator to the dipstick tube.
CAUTION: Do not subject the engine assembly to
more than 20.6 kPa (3 PSI) of test pressure.
(4) Gradually apply air pressure from 1 psi to 2.5
psi maximum while applying soapy water at the sus-
pected source. Adjust the regulator to the suitable
test pressure that provide the best bubbles which
will pinpoint the leak source. If the oil leak is
detected and identified, repair per service manual
procedures.
(5) If the leakage occurs at the rear oil seal area,
refer to the section, Inspection for Rear Seal Area
Leak.
(6) If no leaks are detected, turn off the air supply
and remove the air hose and all plugs and caps.
Install the PCV valve and breather cap hose.(7) Clean the oil off the suspect oil leak area using
a suitable solvent. Drive the vehicle at various
speeds approximately 24 km (15 miles). Inspect the
engine for signs of an oil leak by using a black light.
INSPECTION FOR REAR SEAL AREA LEAKS
Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the
source of an oil leak in the rear seal area of the
engine, a more involved inspection is necessary. The
following steps should be followed to help pinpoint
the source of the leak.
If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal
area:
(1) Disconnect the battery.
(2) Raise the vehicle.
(3) Remove torque converter or clutch housing
cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil.
Use a black light to check for the oil leak:
(a) Circular spray pattern generally indicates
seal leakage or crankshaft damage.
(b) Where leakage tends to run straight down,
possible causes are a porous block, distributor seal,
camshaft bore cup plugs oil galley pipe plugs, oil
filter runoff, and main bearing cap to cylinder
block mating surfaces.
(4) If no leaks are detected, pressurize the crank-
case as outlined in the, Inspection (Engine oil Leaks
in general)
CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
(5) If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the
crankshaft and watch for leakage. If a leak is
detected between the crankshaft and seal while
slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the
crankshaft seal surface is damaged. The seal area on
the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches
that can be polished out with emery cloth.
CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft
polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks and
scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is especially
machined to complement the function of the rear oil
seal.
(6) For bubbles that remain steady with shaft
rotation, no further inspection can be done until dis-
assembled.
DRENGINE - 3.7L 9 - 63
LUBRICATION (Continued)

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CHECKING
ENGINE OIL PRESSURE
(1) Remove oil pressure sending unit (Fig. 72)and
install gauge assembly C-3292.
(2) Run engine until thermostat opens.
(3) Oil Pressure:
²Curb Idle±25 kPa (4 psi) minimum
²3000 rpm±170 - 758 kPa (25 - 110 psi)
(4) If oil pressure is 0 at idle, shut off engine.
Check for a clogged oil pick-up screen or a pressure
relief valve stuck open.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - REAR SEAL AREA
LEAKS
Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the
source of an oil leak in the rear seal area of the
engine, a more involved inspection is necessary. Thefollowing steps should be followed to help pinpoint
the source of the leak.
If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal
area:
(1) Disconnect the battery.
(2) Raise the vehicle.
(3) Remove torque converter or clutch housing
cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil.
Use a black light to check for the oil leak:
(a) Circular spray pattern generally indicates
seal leakage or crankshaft damage.
(b) Where leakage tends to run straight down,
possible causes are a porous block, camshaft bore
cup plugs, oil galley pipe plugs, oil filter runoff,
and main bearing cap to cylinder block mating sur-
faces. See Engine, for proper repair procedures of
these items.
(4) If no leaks are detected, pressurized the crank-
case as outlined in the section, Inspection (Engine oil
Leaks in general)
CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
(5) If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the
crankshaft and watch for leakage. If a leak is
detected between the crankshaft and seal while
slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the
crankshaft seal surface is damaged. The seal area on
the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches
that can be polished out with emery cloth.
CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft
polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks or
scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is specially
machined to complement the function of the rear oil
seal.
(6) For bubbles that remain steady with shaft
rotation, no further inspection can be done until dis-
assembled. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING), under the Oil Leak row, for components
inspections on possible causes and corrections.
(7) After the oil leak root cause and appropriate
corrective action have been identified, (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/CRANKSHAFT OIL
SEAL - REAR - REMOVAL).
Fig. 72 OIL PRESSURE SENDING UNIT -TYPICAL
1 - BELT
2 - OIL PRESSURE SENSOR
3 - OIL FILTER
4 - ELEC. CONNECTOR
9 - 64 ENGINE - 3.7LDR
LUBRICATION (Continued)

(3) Honing should be done by moving the hone up
and down fast enough to get a crosshatch pattern.
The hone marks should INTERSECT at 50É to 60É
for proper seating of rings (Fig. 48).
(4) A controlled hone motor speed between 200 and
300 RPM is necessary to obtain the proper cross-
hatch angle. The number of up and down strokes per
minute can be regulated to get the desired 50É to 60É
angle. Faster up and down strokes increase the cross-
hatch angle.
(5) After honing, it is necessary that the block be
cleaned to remove all traces of abrasive. Use a brush
to wash parts with a solution of hot water and deter-
gent. Dry parts thoroughly. Use a clean, white, lint-
free cloth to check that the bore is clean. Oil the
bores after cleaning to prevent rusting.
CLEANING
Thoroughly clean the oil pan and engine block gas-
ket surfaces.
Use compressed air to clean out:
²The galley at the oil filter adaptor hole.
²The front and rear oil galley holes.
²The feed holes for the crankshaft main bearings.
Once the block has been completely cleaned, apply
Loctite PST pipe sealant with Teflon 592 to the
threads of the front and rear oil galley plugs. Tighten
the 1/4 inch NPT plugs to 20 N´m (177 in. lbs.)
torque. Tighten the 3/8 inch NPT plugs to 27 N´m
(240 in. lbs.) torque.
INSPECTION
(1) It is mandatory to use a dial bore gauge to
measure each cylinder bore diameter. To correctly
select the proper size piston, a cylinder bore gauge,
capable of reading in 0.003 mm (.0001 in.) INCRE-
MENTS is required. If a bore gauge is not available,
do not use an inside micrometer (Fig. 49).
(2) Measure the inside diameter of the cylinder
bore at three levels below top of bore. Start perpen-
dicular (across or at 90 degrees) to the axis of the
crankshaft and then take two additional reading.
(3) Measure the cylinder bore diameter crosswise
to the cylinder block near the top of the bore. Repeat
the measurement near the middle of the bore, then
repeat the measurement near the bottom of the bore.
(4) Determine taper by subtracting the smaller
diameter from the larger diameter.
(5) Rotate measuring device 90É and repeat steps
above.
(6) Determine out-of-roundness by comparing the
difference between each measurement.
(7) If cylinder bore taper does not exceed 0.025
mm (0.001 inch) and out-of-roundness does not
exceed 0.025 mm (0.001 inch), the cylinder bore can
be honed. If the cylinder bore taper or out- of-round
condition exceeds these maximum limits, the cylinder
block must be replaced. A slight amount of taper
always exists in the cylinder bore after the engine
has been in use for a period of time.
Fig. 48 CYLINDER BORE CROSSHATCH PATTERN
1 - CROSSHATCH PATTERN
2 - INTERSECT ANGLE
Fig. 49 BORE GAUGE-TYPICAL
1 - FRONT
2 - BORE GAUGE
3 - CYLINDER BORE
4 - 38 MM (1.5 in)
DRENGINE - 4.7L 9 - 127
ENGINE BLOCK (Continued)

CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL -
REAR
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - REAR SEAL AREA
LEAKS
Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the
source of an oil leak in the rear seal area of the
engine, a more involved inspection is necessary. The
following steps should be followed to help pinpoint
the source of the leak.
If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal
area:
(1) Disconnect the battery.
(2) Raise the vehicle.
(3) Remove torque converter or clutch housing
cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil.
Use a black light to check for the oil leak:
(a) Circular spray pattern generally indicates
seal leakage or crankshaft damage.
(b) Where leakage tends to run straight down,
possible causes are a porous block, camshaft bore
cup plugs, oil galley pipe plugs, oil filter runoff,
and main bearing cap to cylinder block mating sur-
faces. See Engine, for proper repair procedures of
these items.
(4) If no leaks are detected, pressurized the crank-
case as outlined in the section, Inspection (Engine oil
Leaks in general)CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
(5) If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the
crankshaft and watch for leakage. If a leak is
detected between the crankshaft and seal while
slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the
crankshaft seal surface is damaged. The seal area on
the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches
that can be polished out with emery cloth.
CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft
polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks or
scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is specially
machined to complement the function of the rear oil
seal.
(6) For bubbles that remain steady with shaft
rotation, no further inspection can be done until dis-
assembled. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING), under the Oil Leak row, for components
inspections on possible causes and corrections.
(7) After the oil leak root cause and appropriate
corrective action have been identified, (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/CRANKSHAFT OIL
SEAL - REAR - REMOVAL).
REMOVAL
NOTE: This procedure can be performed in vehicle.
(1) If being preformed in vehicle, remove the
transmission.
(2) Remove the flexplate (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
ENGINE BLOCK/FLEX PLATE - REMOVAL).
NOTE: The crankshaft oil seal CAN NOT be reused
after removal.
NOTE: The crankshaft rear oil seal remover Special
Tool 8506 must be installed deeply into the seal.
Continue to tighten the removal tool into the seal
until the tool can not be turned farther. Failure to
install tool correctly the first time will cause tool to
pull free of seal without removing seal from engine.
Fig. 66 Crankshaft Front Seal Installation
1 - TIMING CHAIN COVER
2 - SPECIAL TOOL 8348
3 - SPECIAL TOOL 8512
DRENGINE - 4.7L 9 - 135
CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL - FRONT (Continued)

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CHECKING
ENGINE OIL PRESSURE
(1) Remove oil pressure sending unit (Fig. 93)and
install gauge assembly C-3292.
(2) Run engine until thermostat opens.
(3) Oil Pressure:
²Curb Idle±25 kPa (4 psi) minimum
²3000 rpm±170 - 758 kPa (25 - 110 psi)
(4) If oil pressure is 0 at idle, shut off engine.
Check for a clogged oil pick-up screen or a pressure
relief valve stuck open.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐENGINE OIL LEAK
Begin with a thorough visual inspection of the
engine, particularly at the area of the suspected leak.
If an oil leak source is not readily identifiable, the
following steps should be followed:
(1) Do not clean or degrease the engine at this
time because some solvents may cause rubber to
swell, temporarily stopping the leak.
(2) Add an oil soluble dye (use as recommended by
manufacturer). Start the engine and let idle for
approximately 15 minutes. Check the oil dipstick to
make sure the dye is thoroughly mixed as indicated
with a bright yellow color under a black light.(3) Using a black light, inspect the entire engine
for fluorescent dye, particularly at the suspected area
of oil leak. If the oil leak is found and identified,
repair per service manual instructions.
(4) If dye is not observed, drive the vehicle at var-
ious speeds for approximately 24 km (15 miles), and
repeat inspection.If the oil leak source is not pos-
itively identified at this time, proceed with the air
leak detection test method.
Air Leak Detection Test Method
(1) Disconnect the breather cap to air cleaner hose
at the breather cap end. Cap or plug breather cap
nipple.
(2) Remove the PCV valve from the cylinder head
cover. Cap or plug the PCV valve grommet.
(3) Attach an air hose with pressure gauge and
regulator to the dipstick tube.
CAUTION: Do not subject the engine assembly to
more than 20.6 kPa (3 PSI) of test pressure.
(4) Gradually apply air pressure from 1 psi to 2.5
psi maximum while applying soapy water at the sus-
pected source. Adjust the regulator to the suitable
test pressure that provide the best bubbles which
will pinpoint the leak source. If the oil leak is
detected and identified, repair per service manual
procedures.
(5) If the leakage occurs at the rear oil seal area,
refer to the section, Inspection for Rear Seal Area
Leak.
(6) If no leaks are detected, turn off the air supply
and remove the air hose and all plugs and caps.
Install the PCV valve and breather cap hose.
(7) Clean the oil off the suspect oil leak area using
a suitable solvent. Drive the vehicle at various
speeds approximately 24 km (15 miles). Inspect the
engine for signs of an oil leak by using a black light.
INSPECTION FOR REAR SEAL AREA LEAKS
Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the
source of an oil leak in the rear seal area of the
engine, a more involved inspection is necessary. The
following steps should be followed to help pinpoint
the source of the leak.
If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal
area:
(1) Disconnect the battery.
(2) Raise the vehicle.
(3) Remove torque converter or clutch housing
cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil.
Use a black light to check for the oil leak:
(a) Circular spray pattern generally indicates
seal leakage or crankshaft damage.
(b) Where leakage tends to run straight down,
possible causes are a porous block, distributor seal,
Fig. 93 OIL PRESSURE SENDING UNIT -TYPICAL
1 - BELT
2 - OIL PRESSURE SENSOR
3 - OIL FILTER
4 - ELEC. CONNECTOR
9 - 150 ENGINE - 4.7LDR
LUBRICATION (Continued)