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{CAUTION:
Fans or other moving engine parts can injure
you badly. Keep your hands away from moving
parts once the engine is running.
5. Check that the jumper cables don't have loose or
missing insulation. If they do, you could get a
shock. The vehicles could be damaged, too.
Before you connect the cables, here are some
basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to
positive (+) or to a remote positive (+) terminal if
the vehicle has one. Negative (-) will go to a heavy,
unpainted metal engine part or to a remote
negative (-) terminal if the vehicle has one.
Don't connect positive (+) to negative (-) or you will
get a short that would damage the battery and
maybe other parts, too. And don't connect
the negative (-) cable to the negative (-) terminal
on the dead battery because this can cause sparks.6. Connect the red positive (+) cable to the positive (+)
terminal of the dead battery. Use a remote
positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.
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7. Don't let the other end
touch metal. Connect it
to the positive (+)
terminal of the good
battery. Use a remote
positive (+) terminal
if the vehicle has one.
8. Now connect the black
negative (-) cable to
the negative (-)
terminal of the good
battery. Use a remote
negative (-) terminal
if the vehicle has one.Don't let the other end touch anything until the next
step. The other end of the negative (-) cable
doesn't go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy,
unpainted metal engine part or to a remote
negative (-) terminal on the vehicle with the dead
battery.
9. Connect the other end of the negative (-) cable
to the negative (-) terminal of the dead battery or
to a remote negative (-) terminal if the vehicle
has one.
10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run
the engine for a while.
11. Try to start the vehicle with the dead battery. If it
won't start after a few tries, it probably needs
service.
Notice:Damage to your vehicle may result from
electrical shorting if jumper cables are removed
incorrectly. To prevent electrical shorting, take care
that the cables don't touch each other or any
other metal. The repairs wouldn't be covered by
your warranty.
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A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part or Remote
Negative (-) Terminal
B. Good Battery or Remote Positive (+) and Remote
Negative (-) Terminals
C. Dead Battery or Remote Positive (+) TerminalTo disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles, do
the following:
1. Disconnect the black negative (-) cable from the
vehicle that had the dead battery.
2. Disconnect the black negative (-) cable from the
vehicle with the good battery.
3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the
vehicle with the good battery.
4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the other
vehicle.
5. Return the positve (+) remote terminal to its original
position.
Jumper Cable Removal
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All-Wheel Drive
Lubricant checks in this section also apply to these
vehicles. However, there are two additional systems that
need lubrication.
Transfer Case
When to Check Lubricant
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how
often to check the lubricant. SeePart C: Periodic
MaintenanceInspections on page 6-16.
How to Check Lubricant
To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a
level surface.
If the level is below the bottom of the ®ller plug hole,
you'll need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant
to raise the level to the bottom of the ®ller plug hole.
Use care not to overtighten the plug.
What to Use
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what
kind of lubricant to use. SeePart D: Recommended
Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-18.
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Rear Axle
When to Check Lubricant
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how
often to check the lubricant. SeePart A: Scheduled
Maintenance Services on page 6-4.
How to Check Lubricant
To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a
level surface.
If you have the 1500 Series, the proper level is from
5/8 inch (15 mm) to 1 5/8 inch (40 mm) below the
bottom of the ®ller plug hole. The proper level for the
2500 and 3500 Series is from 0 to 1/4 (6 mm) below the
bottom of the ®ller plug hole. Add only enough ¯uid to
reach the proper level.
What to Use
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what
kind of lubricant to use. SeePart D: Recommended
Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-18.
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Front Axle
When to Check and Change Lubricant
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how
often to check the lubricant and when to change it. See
Part A: Scheduled Maintenance Services on page 6-4.
How to Check Lubricant
To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a
level surface.
If the level is below the
bottom of the ®ller plug
hole, you may need to
add some lubricant.When the differential is cold, add enough lubricant to
raise the level to 3/8 inch (10 mm) below the ®ller
plug hole.
When the differential is at operating temperature
(warm), add enough lubricant to raise the level to the
bottom of the ®ller plug hole.
What to Use
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what
kind of lubricant to use. SeePart D: Recommended
Fluids and Lubricants on page 6-18.
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Noise Control System
Tampering with Noise Control
System Prohibited
The following information relates to compliance with
federal noise emission standards for vehicles with
a Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) of more than
10,000 lbs (4 536 kg). The Maintenance Schedule
provides information on maintaining the noise control
system to minimize degradation of the noise emission
control system during the life of your vehicle. The noise
control system warranty is given in your warranty
booklet.
These standards apply only to vehicles sold in the
United States.
Federal law prohibits the following acts or the causing
thereof:
1. The removal or rendering inoperative by any
person, other than for purposes of maintenance,
repair or replacement, of any device or element of
design incorporated into any new vehicle for
the purpose of noise control, prior to its sale or
delivery to the ultimate purchaser or while it is in
use; or
2. The use of the vehicle after such device or element
of design has been removed or rendered inoperative
by any person.Among those acts presumed to constitute tampering are
the acts listed below.
Insulation:
·
Removal of the noise shields or any underhood
insulation.
Engine:
·
Removal or rendering engine speed governor
(if equipped) inoperative so as to allow engine
speed to exceed manufacturer speci®cations.
Fan and Drive:
·
Removal of fan clutch (if equipped) or rendering
clutch inoperative.
·Removal of the fan shroud (if equipped).
Air Intake:
·
Removal of the air cleaner silencer.
·Modi®cation of the air cleaner.
Exhaust:
·
Removal of the muffler and/or resonator.
·Removal of the exhaust pipes and exhaust pipe
clamps.
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Bulb Replacement
For any bulb changing procedure not listed in this
section, contact your dealer.
For the type of bulbs, see
Replacement Bulbs on
page 5-54.
Halogen Bulbs
{CAUTION:
Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside
and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb.
You or others could be injured. Be sure to read
and follow the instructions on the bulb
package.
Headlamps
1. Remove the two bolts from the headlamp assembly.
2. Remove the two pins on the top of the headlamp
assembly. To remove the pins, turn the outer pin
clockwise and pull it straight up. To remove
the inner pin, turn it counterclockwise and pull it
straight up.
3. Lift the inboard side of the headlamp to release the
inboard tab from the radiator support.
4. Lift the outboard side of the headlamp to release
the outboard tab from the radiator support.
5. Lower the headlamp to allow the vertical adjustor to
clear tie bar.
6. Turn the headlamp forward and upward to remove
it from the grille.
7. Turn the bulb connector counterclockwise and pull it
out of the housing.
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