2002 JEEP LIBERTY Front oil seal

(10) Remove pinion companion flange from pinion
shaft with Remover C-452 and Flange Wrench
C-3281 (Fig. 48).
(11) Remove pinion gear and collapsible spacer
from housing (Fig. 49).(12) Remove front pinion bearing cup, bearing, oil
slinger and pinion seal with Remover C-149 and
Handle C-4171 (Fig. 50).
(13) Remove rear pinion bearing cup (Fig. 51) with
Remover C-4307 and Handle C-4171.
Fig. 48 PINION FLANGE REMOVER
1 - SPANNER WRENCH
2 - REMOVER
Fig. 49 PINION GEAR
1 - RAWHIDE HAMMER
Fig. 50 FRONT BPINION BEARING CUP
1 - REMOVER
2 - HANDLE
Fig. 51 REAR PINION BEARING CUP
1 - REMOVER
2 - HANDLE
KJFRONT AXLE - 186FIA 3 - 45
PINION GEAR/RING GEAR (Continued)

(5) Apply a light coating of gear lubricant on the
lip of pinion seal and intall seal with an appropriate
installer (Fig. 55).
(6) Install rear pinion bearing and oil slinger/depth
shim onto the pinion shaft with Installer 6448 and a
press (Fig. 56).(7) Install anewcollapsible spacer on pinion shaft
and install the pinion into the housing (Fig. 57).
(8) Install pinion companion flange, with Installer
W-162-D, Cup 8109 and Spanner Wrench 6958.
(9) Install pinion anewnut onto the pinion gear
and tighten the nut to 216 N´m (160 ft. lbs.).Do not
over-tighten.
CAUTION: Never loosen pinion gear nut to decrease
pinion rotating torque and never exceed specified
preload torque. If preload torque is exceeded a new
collapsible spacer must be installed.
Fig. 55 PINION SEAL
1 - HANDLE
2 - INSTALLER
Fig. 56 REAR PINION BEARING
1 - INSTALLER
2 - OIL SLINGER
3 - PINION GEAR
4 - REAR PINION BEARING
5 - PRESS
Fig. 57 COLLAPSIBLE PRELOAD SPACER
1 - COLLAPSIBLE SPACER
2 - SHOULDER
3 - PINION GEAR
4 - OIL SLINGER
5 - REAR BEARING
KJFRONT AXLE - 186FIA 3 - 47
PINION GEAR/RING GEAR (Continued)

(11) Remove pinion seal with Remover 7794-A and
a slide hammer (Fig. 70).
(12) Remove oil slinger, if equipped, and front pin-
ion bearing.
(13) Remove front pinion bearing cup with
Remover D-103 and Handle C-4171 (Fig. 71).(14) Remove rear bearing cup from housing (Fig.
72) with Remover D-149 and Handle C-4171.
(15) Remove collapsible preload spacer (Fig. 73).
Fig. 70 PINION SEAL REMOVER
1 - REMOVER
2 - SLIDE HAMMER
3 - PINION SEAL
Fig. 71 FRONT PINION BEARING CUP
1 - REMOVER
2 - HANDLE
Fig. 72 REAR PINION BEARING CUP
1 - DRIVER
2 - HANDLE
Fig. 73 COLLAPSIBLE SPACER
1 - COLLAPSIBLE SPACER
2 - SHOULDER
3 - PINION GEAR
4 - PINION DEPTH SHIM
5 - REAR BEARING
KJREAR AXLE - 198RBI 3 - 81
PINION GEAR/RING GEAR/TONE RING (Continued)

(10) Remove pinion shaft seal with a pry tool or
slide-hammer mounted screw.
(11) Remove oil slinger, if equipped, and front pin-
ion bearing.
(12) Remove front pinion bearing cup with
Remover C-4345 and Handle C-4171 (Fig. 50).
(13) Remove rear bearing cup from housing (Fig.
51) with Remover C-4307 and Handle C-4171.
(14) Remove collapsible preload spacer (Fig. 52).
(15) Remove rear bearing from the pinion (Fig. 53)
with Puller/Press C-293-PA and Adapters C-293-47.
(16) Remove depth shims from the pinion shaft
and record the shims thickness.
INSTALLATION
NOTE: A pinion depth shim/oil baffle is placed
between the rear pinion bearing cone and pinion
gear. If the ring and pinion gears are reused, the
original pinion depth shim/oil baffle can be used.
Refer to Adjustments (Pinion Gear Depth) to select
the proper shim thickness if ring and pinion gear
are replaced.
(1) Apply Mopar Door Ease or equivalent lubricant
to outside surface of pinion bearing cups.
(2) Install rear pinion bearing cup (Fig. 54) with
Installer C-4308 and Handle C-4171 and verify cup is
seated.(3) Install front pinion bearing cup (Fig. 55) with
Installer D-130 and Handle C-4171 and verify cup is
seated.
Fig. 50 Front Pinion Bearing Cup
1 - REMOVER
2 - HANDLE
Fig. 51 Rear Pinion Bearing Cup
1 - DRIVER
2 - HANDLE
Fig. 52 Collapsible Spacer
1 - COLLAPSIBLE SPACER
2 - SHOULDER
3 - PINION
4 - PINION DEPTH SHIM
5 - REAR BEARING
3 - 112 REAR AXLE-81/4KJ
PINION GEAR/RING GEAR/TONE RING (Continued)

(4) Install pinion front bearing and oil slinger, if
equipped.(5) Apply a light coating of gear lubricant on the
lip of pinion seal and install seal with Installer
C-4076-B and Handle C-4735 (Fig. 56).
(6) Place proper thickness depth shim on the pin-
ion.
(7) Install rear bearing and slinger if equipped, on
the pinion shaft (Fig. 57) with Installer 6448 and a
press.
(8) Install anewcollapsible preload spacer on pin-
ion shaft and install pinion in housing (Fig. 58).
(9) Install pinion in housing.
(10) Install yoke with Installer C-3718 and Yoke
Holder 6719A.
Fig. 53 Rear Pinion Bearing Puller
1 - PULLER
2 - VISE
3 - ADAPTERS
4 - PINION GEAR SHAFT
Fig. 54 Rear Pinion Bearing Cup
1 - INSTALLER
2 - HANDLE
Fig. 55 Front Bearing Cup
1 - INSTALLER
2 - HANDLE
Fig. 56 Pinion Seal
1 - HANDLE
2 - DIFFERENTIAL HOUSING
3 - INSTALLER
KJREAR AXLE - 8 1/4 3 - 113
PINION GEAR/RING GEAR/TONE RING (Continued)

CAUTION: Never use gasoline, kerosene, alcohol,
motor oil, transmission fluid, or any fluid containing
mineral oil to clean the system components. These
fluids damage rubber cups and seals. Use only
fresh brake fluid or Mopar brake cleaner to clean or
flush brake system components. These are the only
cleaning materials recommended. If system contam-
ination is suspected, check the fluid for dirt, discol-
oration, or separation into distinct layers. Also
check the reservoir cap seal for distortion. Drain
and flush the system with new brake fluid if con-
tamination is suspected.
CAUTION: Use Mopar brake fluid, or an equivalent
quality fluid meeting SAE/DOT standards J1703 and
DOT 3. Brake fluid must be clean and free of con-
taminants. Use fresh fluid from sealed containers
only to ensure proper antilock component opera-
tion.
CAUTION: Use Mopar multi-mileage or high temper-
ature grease to lubricate caliper slide surfaces,
drum brake pivot pins, and shoe contact points on
the backing plates. Use multi-mileage grease or GE
661 or Dow 111 silicone grease on caliper slide pins
to ensure proper operation.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - BASE BRAKE
SYSTEM
Base brake components consist of the brake shoes,
calipers, wheel cylinders, brake drums, rotors, brake
lines, master cylinder, booster, and parking brake
components.
Brake diagnosis involves determining if the prob-
lem is related to a mechanical, hydraulic, or vacuum
operated component.
The first diagnosis step is the preliminary check.
PRELIMINARY BRAKE CHECK
(1) Check condition of tires and wheels. Damaged
wheels and worn, damaged, or underinflated tires
can cause pull, shudder, vibration, and a condition
similar to grab.
(2) If complaint was based on noise when braking,
check suspension components. Jounce front and rear
of vehicle and listen for noise that might be caused
by loose, worn or damaged suspension or steering
components.
(3) Inspect brake fluid level and condition. Note
that the brake reservoir fluid level will decrease in
proportion to normal lining wear.Also note that
brake fluid tends to darken over time. This is
normal and should not be mistaken for contam-
ination.(a) If fluid level is abnormally low, look for evi-
dence of leaks at calipers, wheel cylinders, brake
lines, and master cylinder.
(b) If fluid appears contaminated, drain out a
sample to examine. System will have to be flushed
if fluid is separated into layers, or contains a sub-
stance other than brake fluid. The system seals
and cups will also have to be replaced after flush-
ing. Use clean brake fluid to flush the system.
(4) Check parking brake operation. Verify free
movement and full release of cables and pedal. Also
note if vehicle was being operated with parking
brake partially applied.
(5) Check brake pedal operation. Verify that pedal
does not bind and has adequate free play. If pedal
lacks free play, check pedal and power booster for
being loose or for bind condition. Do not road test
until condition is corrected.
(6) Check booster vacuum check valve and hose.
(7) If components checked appear OK, road test
the vehicle.
ROAD TESTING
(1) If complaint involved low brake pedal, pump
pedal and note if it comes back up to normal height.
(2) Check brake pedal response with transmission
in Neutral and engine running. Pedal should remain
firm under constant foot pressure.
(3) During road test, make normal and firm brake
stops in 25-40 mph range. Note faulty brake opera-
tion such as low pedal, hard pedal, fade, pedal pulsa-
tion, pull, grab, drag, noise, etc.
(4) Attempt to stop the vehicle with the parking
brake only and note grab, drag, noise, etc.
PEDAL FALLS AWAY
A brake pedal that falls away under steady foot
pressure is generally the result of a system leak. The
leak point could be at a brake line, fitting, hose, or
caliper/wheel cylinder. If leakage is severe, fluid will
be evident at or around the leaking component.
Internal leakage (seal by-pass) in the master cylin-
der caused by worn or damaged piston cups, may
also be the problem cause.
An internal leak in the ABS or RWAL system may
also be the problem with no physical evidence.
LOW PEDAL
If a low pedal is experienced, pump the pedal sev-
eral times. If the pedal comes back up worn linings,
rotors, drums, or rear brakes out of adjustment are
the most likely causes. The proper course of action is
to inspect and replace all worn component and make
the proper adjustments.
KJBRAKES - BASE 5 - 3
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)

BRAKES DO NOT HOLD AFTER DRIVING THROUGH DEEP
WATER PUDDLES
This condition is generally caused by water soaked
lining. If the lining is only wet, it can be dried by
driving with the brakes very lightly applied for a
mile or two. However, if the lining is both soaked and
dirt contaminated, cleaning and/or replacement will
be necessary.
BRAKE LINING CONTAMINATION
Brake lining contamination is mostly a product of
leaking calipers or wheel cylinders, worn seals, driv-
ing through deep water puddles, or lining that has
become covered with grease and grit during repair.
Contaminated lining should be replaced to avoid fur-
ther brake problems.
WHEEL AND TIRE PROBLEMS
Some conditions attributed to brake components
may actually be caused by a wheel or tire problem.
A damaged wheel can cause shudder, vibration and
pull. A worn or damaged tire can also cause pull.
Severely worn tires with very little tread left can
produce a grab-like condition as the tire loses and
recovers traction. Flat-spotted tires can cause vibra-
tion and generate shudder during brake operation. A
tire with internal damage such as a severe bruise,
cut, or ply separation can cause pull and vibration.
BRAKE NOISES
Some brake noise is common with rear drum
brakes and on some disc brakes during the first few
stops after a vehicle has been parked overnight or
stored. This is primarily due to the formation of trace
corrosion (light rust) on metal surfaces. This light
corrosion is typically cleared from the metal surfaces
after a few brake applications causing the noise to
subside.
BRAKE SQUEAK/SQUEAL
Brake squeak or squeal may be due to linings that
are wet or contaminated with brake fluid, grease, or
oil. Glazed linings and rotors with hard spots can
also contribute to squeak. Dirt and foreign material
embedded in the brake lining will also cause squeak/
squeal.
A very loud squeak or squeal is frequently a sign of
severely worn brake lining. If the lining has worn
through to the brake shoes in spots, metal-to-metal
contact occurs. If the condition is allowed to continue,
rotors and drums can become so scored that replace-
ment is necessary.
BRAKE CHATTER
Brake chatter is usually caused by loose or worn
components, or glazed/burnt lining. Rotors with hard
spots can also contribute to chatter. Additional causesof chatter are out-of-tolerance rotors, brake lining not
securely attached to the shoes, loose wheel bearings
and contaminated brake lining.
THUMP/CLUNK NOISE
Thumping or clunk noises during braking are fre-
quentlynotcaused by brake components. In many
cases, such noises are caused by loose or damaged
steering, suspension, or engine components. However,
calipers that bind on the slide surfaces can generate
a thump or clunk noise. In addition, worn out,
improperly adjusted, or improperly assembled rear
brake shoes can also produce a thump noise.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - PRESSURE
BLEEDING
Use Mopar brake fluid, or an equivalent quality
fluid meeting SAE J1703-F and DOT 3 standards
only. Use fresh, clean fluid from a sealed container at
all times.
Do not pump the brake pedal at any time while
bleeding. Air in the system will be compressed into
small bubbles that are distributed throughout the
hydraulic system. This will make additional bleeding
operations necessary.
Do not allow the master cylinder to run out of fluid
during bleed operations. An empty cylinder will allow
additional air to be drawn into the system. Check the
cylinder fluid level frequently and add fluid as
needed.
Bleed only one brake component at a time in the
following sequence:
²Master Cylinder
²Combination Valve
²Right Rear Wheel
²Left Rear Wheel
²Right Front Wheel
²Left Front Wheel
Follow the manufacturers instructions carefully
when using pressure equipment. Do not exceed the
tank manufacturers pressure recommendations. Gen-
erally, a tank pressure of 15-20 psi is sufficient for
bleeding.
Fill the bleeder tank with recommended fluid and
purge air from the tank lines before bleeding.
Do not pressure bleed without a proper master cyl-
inder adapter. The wrong adapter can lead to leak-
age, or drawing air back into the system. Use
adapter provided with the equipment or Adapter
6921.
KJBRAKES - BASE 5 - 5
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)

BRAKE LINES
DESCRIPTION
Flexible rubber hose is used at both front brakes
and at the rear axle junction block. Double walled
steel tubing is used to connect the master cylinder to
the major hydraulic braking components and then to
the flexible rubber hoses. Double inverted style and
ISO style flares are used on the brake lines.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - BRAKE LINE AND
HOSES
Flexible rubber hose is used at both front brakes
and at the rear axle junction block. Inspect the hoses
whenever the brake system is serviced, at every
engine oil change, or whenever the vehicle is in for
service.
Inspect the hoses for surface cracking, scuffing, or
worn spots. Replace any brake hose immediately if
the fabric casing of the hose is exposed due to cracks
or abrasions.
Also check brake hose installation. Faulty installa-
tion can result in kinked, twisted hoses, or contact
with the wheels and tires or other chassis compo-
nents. All of these conditions can lead to scuffing,
cracking and eventual failure.
The steel brake lines should be inspected periodi-
cally for evidence of corrosion, twists, kinks, leaks, or
other damage. Heavily corroded lines will eventually
rust through causing leaks. In any case, corroded or
damaged brake lines should be replaced.
Factory replacement brake lines and hoses are rec-
ommended to ensure quality, correct length and supe-
rior fatigue life. Care should be taken to make sure
that brake line and hose mating surfaces are clean
and free from nicks and burrs. Also remember that
right and left brake hoses are not interchangeable.
Use new copper seal washers at all caliper connec-
tions. Be sure brake line connections are properly
made (not cross threaded) and tightened to recom-
mended torque.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - DOUBLE INVERTED
FLARING
A preformed metal brake tube is recommended and
preferred for all repairs. However, double-wall steel
tube can be used for emergency repair when factory
replacement parts are not readily available.
Special bending tools are needed to avoid kinking
or twisting of metal brake tubes. Special flaring tools
are needed to make a double inverted flare or ISO
flare.(1) Cut off damaged tube with Tubing Cutter.
(2) Ream cut edges of tubing to ensure proper
flare.
(3) Install replacement tube nut on the tube.
(4) Insert tube in flaring tool.
(5) Place gauge form over the end of the tube.
(6) Push tubing through flaring tool jaws until
tube contacts recessed notch in gauge that matches
tube diameter.
(7) Tighten the tool bar on the tube
(8) Insert plug on gauge in the tube. Then swing
compression disc over gauge and center tapered flar-
ing screw in recess of compression disc (Fig. 2).
(9) Tighten tool handle until plug gauge is
squarely seated on jaws of flaring tool. This will start
the inverted flare.
(10) Remove the plug gauge and complete the
inverted flare.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - ISO FLARING
A preformed metal brake tube is recommended and
preferred for all repairs. However, double-wall steel
tube can be used for emergency repair when factory
replacement parts are not readily available.
Special bending tools are needed to avoid kinking
or twisting of metal brake tubes. Special flaring tools
are needed to make a double inverted flare or ISO
flare.
To make a ISO flare use a ISO brake flaring tool or
equivalent.
(1) Cut off damaged tube with Tubing Cutter.
(2) Remove any burrs from the inside of the tube.
(3) Install tube nut on the tube.
Fig. 2 Inverted
5 - 8 BRAKES - BASEKJ