INSTALLATION
(1) Install the spare tire onto the studs on the car-
rier.
(2) Install the two lug nuts and one wheel lock (if
equipped). Tighten the nuts to 115 N´m (85 ft.lbs.)
(3) Close the plastic wheel cover and install the
two mounting bolts. Tighten the nuts to 115 N´m (85
ft.lbs.)
(4) Close the license plate to cover the bolts and
latch.
WHEELS
DESCRIPTION
The rim size is on the vehicle safety certification
label located on the drivers door shut face. The size
of the rim is determined by the drivetrain package.
Original equipment wheels/rims are designed for
operation up to the specified maximum vehicle capac-
ity.
All models use stamped steel, cast aluminum or
forged aluminum wheels. Every wheel has raised sec-
tions between the rim flanges and rim drop well
called safety humps (Fig. 17).
Fig. 15 Tire Wear Patterns
Fig. 16 Tire Repair Area
1 - REPAIRABLE AREA
Fig. 17 Safety Rim
1 - FLANGE
2 - RIDGE
3 - WELL
KJTIRES/WHEELS 22 - 9
SPARE TIRE (Continued)
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - WATER LEAKS
Water leaks can be caused by poor sealing,
improper body component alignment, body seam
porosity, missing plugs, or blocked drain holes. Cen-
trifugal and gravitational force can cause water to
drip from a location away from the actual leak point,
making leak detection difficult. All body sealing
points should be water tight in normal wet-driving
conditions. Water flowing downward from the front of
the vehicle should not enter the passenger or luggage
compartment. Moving sealing surfaces will not
always seal water tight under all conditions. At
times, side glass or door seals will allow water to
enter the passenger compartment during high pres-
sure washing or hard driving rain (severe) condi-
tions. Overcompensating on door or glass
adjustments to stop a water leak that occurs under
severe conditions can cause premature seal wear and
excessive closing or latching effort. After completing
a repair, water test vehicle to verify leak has stopped
before returning vehicle to use.
VISUAL INSPECTION BEFORE WATER LEAK TESTS
Verify that floor and body plugs are in place, body
drains are clear, and body components are properly
aligned and sealed. If component alignment or seal-
ing is necessary, refer to the appropriate section of
this group for proper procedures.
WATER LEAK TESTS
WARNING: DO NOT USE ELECTRIC SHOP LIGHTS
OR TOOLS IN WATER TEST AREA. PERSONAL
INJURY CAN RESULT.
When the conditions causing a water leak have
been determined, simulate the conditions as closely
as possible.
²If a leak occurs with the vehicle parked in a
steady light rain, flood the leak area with an open-
ended garden hose.
²If a leak occurs while driving at highway speeds
in a steady rain, test the leak area with a reasonable
velocity stream or fan spray of water. Direct the
spray in a direction comparable to actual conditions.
²If a leak occurs when the vehicle is parked on an
incline, hoist the end or side of the vehicle to simu-
late this condition. This method can be used when
the leak occurs when the vehicle accelerates, stops or
turns. If the leak occurs on acceleration, hoist the
front of the vehicle. If the leak occurs when braking,
hoist the back of the vehicle. If the leak occurs on left
turns, hoist the left side of the vehicle. If the leak
occurs on right turns, hoist the right side of the vehi-cle. For hoisting recommendations refer to Group 0,
Lubrication and Maintenance, General Information
section.
WATER LEAK DETECTION
To detect a water leak point-of-entry, do a water
test and watch for water tracks or droplets forming
on the inside of the vehicle. If necessary, remove inte-
rior trim covers or panels to gain visual access to the
leak area. If the hose cannot be positioned without
being held, have someone help do the water test.
Some water leaks must be tested for a considerable
length of time to become apparent. When a leak
appears, find the highest point of the water track or
drop. The highest point usually will show the point of
entry. After leak point has been found, repair the
leak and water test to verify that the leak has
stopped.
Locating the entry point of water that is leaking
into a cavity between panels can be difficult. The
trapped water may splash or run from the cavity,
often at a distance from the entry point. Most water
leaks of this type become apparent after accelerating,
stopping, turning, or when on an incline.
MIRROR INSPECTION METHOD
When a leak point area is visually obstructed, use
a suitable mirror to gain visual access. A mirror can
also be used to deflect light to a limited-access area
to assist in locating a leak point.
BRIGHT LIGHT LEAK TEST METHOD
Some water leaks in the luggage compartment can
be detected without water testing. Position the vehi-
cle in a brightly lit area. From inside the darkened
luggage compartment inspect around seals and body
seams. If necessary, have a helper direct a drop light
over the suspected leak areas around the luggage
compartment. If light is visible through a normally
sealed location, water could enter through the open-
ing.
PRESSURIZED LEAK TEST METHOD
When a water leak into the passenger compart-
ment cannot be detected by water testing, pressurize
the passenger compartment and soap test exterior of
the vehicle. To pressurize the passenger compart-
ment, close all doors and windows, start engine, and
set heater control to high blower in HEAT position. If
engine can not be started, connect a charger to the
battery to ensure adequate voltage to the blower.
With interior pressurized, apply dish detergent solu-
tion to suspected leak area on the exterior of the
vehicle. Apply detergent solution with spray device or
soft bristle brush. If soap bubbles occur at a body
seam, joint, seal or gasket, the leak entry point could
be at that location.
23 - 2 BODYKJ
BODY (Continued)
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - WIND NOISE
Wind noise is the result of most air leaks. Air leaks
can be caused by poor sealing, improper body compo-
nent alignment, body seam porosity, or missing plugs
in the engine compartment or door hinge pillar areas.
All body sealing points should be airtight in normal
driving conditions. Moving sealing surfaces will not
always seal airtight under all conditions. At times,
side glass or door seals will allow wind noise to be
noticed in the passenger compartment during high
cross winds. Over compensating on door or glass
adjustments to stop wind noise that occurs under
severe conditions can cause premature seal wear and
excessive closing or latching effort. After a repair pro-
cedure has been performed, test vehicle to verify
noise has stopped before returning vehicle to use.
Wind noise can also be caused by improperly fitted
exterior moldings or body ornamentation. Loose
moldings can flutter, creating a buzzing or chattering
noise. An open cavity or protruding edge can create a
whistling or howling noise. Inspect the exterior of the
vehicle to verify that these conditions do not exist.
VISUAL INSPECTION BEFORE TESTS
Verify that floor and body plugs are in place and
body components are aligned and sealed. If compo-
nent alignment or sealing is necessary, refer to the
appropriate section of this group for proper proce-
dures.
ROAD TESTING WIND NOISE
(1) Drive the vehicle to verify the general location
of the wind noise.
(2) Apply 50 mm (2 in.) masking tape in 150 mm
(6 in.) lengths along weatherstrips, weld seams or
moldings. After each length is applied, drive the vehi-
cle. If noise goes away after a piece of tape is applied,
remove tape, locate, and repair defect.
POSSIBLE CAUSE OF WIND NOISE
²Moldings standing away from body surface can
catch wind and whistle.
²Gaps in sealed areas behind overhanging body
flanges can cause wind-rushing sounds.
²Misaligned movable components.
²Missing or improperly installed plugs in pillars.
²Weld burn through holes.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - BODY LUBRICATION
All mechanisms and linkages should be lubricated
when necessary. This will maintain ease of operation
and provide protection against rust and excessivewear. The weatherstrip seals should be lubricated to
prolong their life as well as to improve door sealing.
All applicable exterior and interior vehicle operat-
ing mechanisms should be inspected and cleaned.
Pivot/sliding contact areas on the mechanisms should
then be lubricated.
(1) When necessary, lubricate the operating mech-
anisms with the specified lubricants.
(2) Apply silicone lubricant to a cloth and wipe it
on door seals to avoid over-spray that can soil pas-
senger's clothing.
(3) Before applying lubricant, the component
should be wiped clean. After lubrication, any excess
lubricant should be removed.
(4) The hood latch, latch release mechanism, latch
striker, and safety latch should be lubricated period-
ically.
(5) The door lock cylinders should be lubricated
twice each year (preferably autumn and spring).
²Spray a small amount of lock cylinder lubricant
directly into the lock cylinder.
²Apply a small amount to the key and insert it
into the lock cylinder.
²Rotate it to the locked position and then back to
the unlocked position several times.
²Remove the key. Wipe the lubricant from it with
a clean cloth to avoid soiling of clothing.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - HEAT STAKING
(1) Remove trim panel.
(2) Bend or move the trim panel components at
the heat staked joints. Observe the heat staked loca-
tions and/or component seams for looseness.
(3) Heat stake the components.
(a) If the heat staked or component seam loca-
tion is loose, hold the two components tightly
together and using a soldering gun with a flat tip,
melt the material securing the components
together. Do not over heat the affected area, dam-
age to the exterior of the trim panel may occur.
(b) If the heat staked material is broken or miss-
ing, use a hot glue gun to apply new material to
the area to be repaired. The panels that are being
heat staked must be held together while the apply-
ing the glue. Once the new material is in place, it
may be necessary to use a soldering gun to melt
the newly applied material. Do not over heat the
affected area, damage to the exterior of the trim
panel may occur.
(4) Allow the repaired area to cool and verify the
repair.
(5) Install trim panel.
KJBODY 23 - 3
BODY (Continued)
SPECIFICATIONS
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
DESCRIPTION N´m Ft. Lbs. In. Lbs.
FENDER BOLTS 12 9 Ð
FLIP-UP GLASS HINGE BOLTS 7 Ð 60
FRONT DOOR CHECK STRAP NUTS 12 9 Ð
FRONT DOOR CHECK STRAP TO A-PILLAR BOLTS 12 9 Ð
FRONT DOOR GLASS RUN CHANNEL BOLTS 9 Ð 80
FRONT DOOR HINGE TO A-PILLAR BOLTS 28 21 Ð
FRONT DOOR HINGE TO DOOR NUTS 23 17 Ð
FRONT DOOR LATCH SCREW 11 8 Ð
FRONT DOOR LATCH STRIKER SCREWS 28 21 Ð
FRONT DOOR OUTSIDE HANDLE NUTS 6 Ð 55
FRONT DOOR REGULATOR BOLTS 9 Ð 80
FRONT SEAT BACK RECLINER BOLTS 28 21 Ð
FRONT SEAT BOLTS/NUT 43 32 Ð
FRONT SEAT RISER BOLTS 28 21 Ð
FRONT SEAT TRACK BOLTS 28 21 Ð
HOOD HINGE TO BODY BOLTS 28 21 Ð
HOOD HINGE TO HOOD BOLTS 12 9 Ð
HOOD LATCH NUTS 12 9 Ð
HOOD LATCH SUPPORT BOLTS 10 Ð 85
INSTRUMENT PANEL CENTER SUPPORT BRACKET
BOLTS23 17 Ð
INSTRUMENT PANEL HVAC NUTS/BOLTS 6 Ð 55
INSTRUMENT PANEL ROLL DOWN BOLTS 54 40 Ð
INSTRUMENT PANEL TOP BOLTS 28 21 Ð
OUTSIDE MIRROR NUTS 7 Ð 65
RADIATOR CROSSMEMBER BOLTS 12 9 Ð
REAR DOOR CHECK STRAP NUTS 12 9 Ð
REAR DOOR CHECK STRAP TO A-PILLAR BOLTS 12 9 Ð
REAR DOOR GLASS RUN CHANNEL BOLTS 9 Ð 80
REAR DOOR HINGE TO B-PILLAR BOLTS 28 21 Ð
REAR DOOR HINGE TO DOOR NUTS 23 17 Ð
REAR DOOR LATCH SCREW 11 8 Ð
REAR DOOR LATCH STRIKER SCREWS 28 21 Ð
REAR DOOR OUTSIDE HANDLE NUTS 6 Ð 55
REAR SEAT BACK HINGE BOLTS 28 21 Ð
REAR SEAT LATCH/LOCK ASSEMBLY BOLTS 28 21 Ð
REAR SEAT OUTBOARD NUTS 43 32 Ð
REAR SEAT OUTER SEAT CUSHION LEG BOLTS 35 26 Ð
ROOF RACK BOLTS 8 Ð 75
23 - 4 BODYKJ
BODY (Continued)
DOOR - FRONT
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
CHECK STRAP
REMOVAL............................121
INSTALLATION........................121
DOOR
REMOVAL............................122
INSTALLATION........................122
DOOR GLASS
REMOVAL............................122
INSTALLATION........................122
EXTERIOR HANDLE
REMOVAL............................123
INSTALLATION........................123
GLASS RUN CHANNEL
REMOVAL............................123
INSTALLATION........................123
HINGE
REMOVAL............................123
INSTALLATION........................123
LATCH
REMOVAL............................124
INSTALLATION........................124ADJUSTMENTS
ADJUSTMENT.......................124
LATCH STRIKER
REMOVAL............................124
INSTALLATION........................124
LOCK CYLINDER
REMOVAL............................125
INSTALLATION........................125
TRIM PANEL
REMOVAL............................125
INSTALLATION........................126
WATERDAM
REMOVAL............................126
INSTALLATION........................126
WINDOW REGULATOR - MANUAL
REMOVAL............................126
INSTALLATION........................126
WINDOW REGULATOR - ELECTRIC
REMOVAL............................126
INSTALLATION........................126
CHECK STRAP
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the waterdam. (Refer to 23 - BODY/
DOOR - FRONT/WATERDAM - REMOVAL)
(2) Remove screws attaching door check to A-pillar.
(3) Remove the two nuts and remove the door
check strap. (Fig. 1)
INSTALLATION
NOTE: Make sure the proper orientation of the
check strap is maintained using the ªRº and ªLº on
the top.
(1) Install the check strap through the speaker
hole.
(2) Install the nuts and tighten to 12 N´m (9 ft.
lbs.).
(3) Connect the strap to the A-pillar and tighten
the bolts to 12 N´m (9 ft. lbs.).
(4) Install the waterdam. (Refer to 23 - BODY/
DOOR - FRONT/WATERDAM - INSTALLATION)
Fig. 1 CHECK STRAP
1 - NUTS
2 - CHECK STRAP
3 - SPEAKER OPENING
KJDOOR - FRONT 23 - 121
EXTERIOR HANDLE
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the door glass. (Refer to 23 - BODY/
DOOR - FRONT/DOOR GLASS - REMOVAL)
(2) Disconnect the lock switch electrical connector,
if equipped. (Fig. 4)
(3) Disconnect the handle rod at the handle and
the key cylinder rod at the latch.
(4) Remove the screws.
(5) Remove the nuts and remove the handle.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the handle on the door and slide fully
toward the rear of the door.
(2) Install the nuts and tighten to 6 N´m (55 in.
lbs.).
(3) Install the screws and tighten to 6 N´m (55 in.
lbs.).
(4) Connect the handle rod at the handle and the
key cylinder rod at the latch.
(5) Connect the lock switch electrical connector, if
equipped.
(6) Install the door glass. (Refer to 23 - BODY/
DOOR - FRONT/DOOR GLASS - INSTALLATION)
GLASS RUN CHANNEL
REMOVAL
(1) Position the window into the down position.
(2) Remove the waterdam. (Refer to 23 - BODY/
DOOR - FRONT/WATERDAM - REMOVAL)(3) Remove the outer belt molding. (Refer to 23 -
BODY/WEATHERSTRIP/SEALS/FRONT DOOR
OUTER BELT MOLDING - REMOVAL)
(4) Remove the front and rear bolts. (Fig. 5)
(5) Peal the weatherstrip out of the door frame
and remove the run channel through the window
opening.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the run channel through the window
opening and into the door frame.
(2) Install the front, rear bolts and tighten to 9
N´m (80 in. lbs.).
(3) Install the outer belt molding. (Refer to 23 -
BODY/WEATHERSTRIP/SEALS/FRONT DOOR
OUTER BELT MOLDING - INSTALLATION)
(4) Install the waterdam. (Refer to 23 - BODY/
DOOR - FRONT/WATERDAM - INSTALLATION)
HINGE
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the door. (Refer to 23 - BODY/DOOR -
FRONT/DOOR - REMOVAL)
(2) Using a grease pencil or equivalent, mark the
hinge location and remove the bolts.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the hinges and bolts.
(2) Tighten bolts to 28 N´m (21 ft. lbs.).
(3) Install the door. (Refer to 23 - BODY/DOOR -
FRONT/DOOR - INSTALLATION)
Fig. 4 EXTERIOR HANDLE
1 - EXTERIOR HANDLE
2 - NUTS
3 - SCREWS
4 - ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR
Fig. 5 GLASS RUN CHANNEL
1 - WINDOW OPENING
2 - REAR BOLTS (2)
3 - GLASS RUN CHANNEL
4 - FRONT BOLTS (2)
KJDOOR - FRONT 23 - 123
LATCH
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the waterdam. (Refer to 23 - BODY/
DOOR - FRONT/WATERDAM - REMOVAL)
(2) Disconnect the exterior handle rod at the han-
dle.
(3) Disconnect the lock and lock cylinder rods at
the latch.
(4) Remove the screws and remove the latch
assembly. (Fig. 6)
(5) Disconnect the electrical connectors.
INSTALLATION
(1) Connect the latch electrical connectors.
(2) Install the latch assembly into the door and
install the screws.
(3) Tighten the latch screws to 11 N´m (95 in. lbs.).
(4) Connect the lock cylinder and lock actuator
rods at the latch.
(5) Connect the exterior handle actuator rod at the
handle.
(6) Adjust the latch as needed. (Refer to 23 -
BODY/DOOR - FRONT/LATCH - ADJUSTMENTS)
(7) Install the waterdam. (Refer to 23 - BODY/
DOOR - FRONT/WATERDAM - INSTALLATION)
ADJUSTMENTS
ADJUSTMENT
(1) Locate access hole and remove the mylar tape
covering it. (Fig. 7)
(2) Insert a 5/32-inch hex-wrench through hole and
into adjustment screw. Loosen screw.
(3) Operate outside handle several times to release
any restriction because of mis-alignment.
(4) Tighten adjustment screw to 3 N´m (30 in.
lbs.).
(5) Test handle and lock cylinder for proper opera-
tion.
LATCH STRIKER
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the bolts. (Fig. 8)
(2) Remove the latch striker and the spacer, if
equipped.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the striker and spacer, if equipped.
(2) Install the bolts and tighten to 28 N´m (21 ft.
lbs.).
(3) Adjust the door as necessary. (Refer to 23 -
BODY/BODY STRUCTURE/GAP AND FLUSH -
SPECIFICATIONS)
Fig. 6 LATCH
1 - LOCK ACTUATOR ROD
2 - PLASTIC COVER
3 - LATCH ASSEMBLY
4 - DOOR
5 - SCREWS
Fig. 7 LATCH ADJUSTMENT SCREW
1 - DOOR LATCH
2 - MYLAR TAPE
3 - ADJUSTMENT SCREW
23 - 124 DOOR - FRONTKJ
LOCK CYLINDER
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the exterior handle. (Refer to 23 -
BODY/DOOR - FRONT/EXTERIOR HANDLE -
REMOVAL)
(2) Remove the clip and remove the lock cylinder
lever and switch, if equipped.
(3) Remove the screw and remove the lock cylin-
der. (Fig. 9)
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the lock cylinder and install the retain-
ing screw.
(2) Install the lock cylinder switch, if equipped,
lever and retaining clip.
(3) Install the exterior handle. (Refer to 23 -
BODY/DOOR - FRONT/EXTERIOR HANDLE -
INSTALLATION)
TRIM PANEL
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the inside handle screw plug and
remove the screw. (Fig. 10)
(2) Remove the pull handle screw.(3) Using a trim stick C-4755 or equivalent, disen-
gage the trim panel clips and remove the trim panel.
(4) Disconnect the electrical connectors and the
inside handle actuator rod. (Fig. 11)
Fig. 8 LATCH STRIKER
1 - B-PILLAR
2 - SPACER
3 - STRIKER
4 - BOLTS (2)
Fig. 9 LOCK CYLINDER
1 - SCREW
2 - LOCK CYLINDER ASSEMBLY
3 - EXTERIOR HANDLE
Fig. 10 TRIM PANEL
1 - ALIGNMENT PIN HOLES
2 - LATCH ACTUATOR ROD
3 - SCREWS (2)
4 - TRIM PANEL CLIPS
5 - INSIDE HANDLE SCREW PLUG
KJDOOR - FRONT 23 - 125
LATCH STRIKER (Continued)