2002 JEEP LIBERTY Body

BRAKES
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
POWER BRAKE BOOSTER
REMOVAL - RHD........................1INSTALLATION - RHD.....................1
POWER BRAKE BOOSTER
REMOVAL - RHD
(1) Remove the air box (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/AIR
INTAKE SYSTEM/AIR CLEANER ELEMENT -
REMOVAL).
(2) Relocate the cruise control servo to gain access
to the booster for removal.
(3) Remove the brake lines from the master cylin-
der.
(4) Remove the master cylinder (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/MASTER
CYLINDER - REMOVAL).
(5) Disconnect vacuum hose from booster check
valve.
(6) Remove knee blocker under the steering colum-
n,(Refer to 23 - BODY/INSTRUMENT PANEL/KNEE
BLOCKER - REMOVAL).
(7) Remove the brake light switch.(Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/LAMPS/LIGHTING - EXTERIOR/
BRAKE LAMP SWITCH - REMOVAL)
(8) Remove retaining clip that secures booster
push rod to brake pedal (Fig. 1).
(9) Remove nuts attaching booster to the dash
panel (Fig. 2).(10) In engine compartment, slide booster studs
out of dash panel, tilt booster upward, and remove
booster from engine compartment.
INSTALLATION - RHD
(1) Align and position booster on the dash panel.
(2) Install booster mounting nuts. Tighten nuts
just enough to hold booster in place.
(3) Slide booster push rod onto the brake pedal.
Then secure push rod to pedal pin with retaining
clip.
NOTE: Lubricate the pedal pin with Mopar multi-
mileage grease before installation.
(4) Tighten booster mounting nuts to 39 N´m (29
ft. lbs.).
(5) Install the brake light switch.
(6) Install the knee blocker,(Refer to 23 - BODY/
INSTRUMENT PANEL/KNEE BLOCKER - INSTAL-
LATION).
(7) If original master cylinder is being installed,
check condition of seal at rear of master cylinder.
Replace seal if cut, or torn.
(8) Clean cylinder mounting surface of brake
booster. Use shop towel wetted with brake cleaner for
Fig. 1 BOOSTER PUSH ROD
1 - BRAKE PEDAL
2 - BOOSTER ROD
Fig. 2 BOOSTER MOUNTING
1 - BRAKE BOOSTER
KJBRAKES 5s - 1

On a Dual Mass Flywheel the additional secondary
mass coupled to the transmission lowers the natural
frequency of the transmission rotating elements. This
decreases the transmission gear rattle. The damper
springs between the two flywheel masses replace the
clutch disc damper springs and assist in a smooth
transfer of torque to the transmission.
CAUTION: The Dual Mass Flywheel is serviced as
an assembly only and should never be taken apart.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - FLYWHEEL
Check flywheel runout whenever misalignment is
suspected. Flywheel runout should not exceed 0.08
mm (0.003 in.). Measure runout at the outer edge of
the flywheel face with a dial indicator. Mount the
indicator on a stud installed in place of one of the fly-
wheel bolts.
Common causes of runout are:
²heat warpage
²improper machining
²incorrect bolt tightening
²improper seating on crankshaft flange shoulder
²foreign material on crankshaft flange
Flywheel machining is not recommended. The fly-
wheel clutch surface is machined to a unique contour
and machining will negate this feature. Minor fly-
wheel scoring can be cleaned up by hand with 180
grit emery or with surface grinding equipment.
Remove only enough material to reduce scoring
(approximately 0.001 - 0.003 in.). Heavy stock
removal isnot recommended.Replace the flywheel
if scoring is severe and deeper than 0.076 mm (0.003
in.). Excessive stock removal can result in flywheel
cracking or warpage after installation; it can also
weaken the flywheel and interfere with proper clutch
release.
Clean the crankshaft flange before mounting the
flywheel. Dirt and grease on the flange surface may
cock the flywheel causing excessive runout. Use new
bolts when remounting a flywheel and secure the
bolts with Mopar Lock And Seal or equivalent.
Tighten flywheel bolts to specified torque only. Over-
tightening can distort the flywheel hub causing
runout.
PILOT BEARING
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the transmission.
(2) Remove pressure plate and clutch disc.
(3) Remove pilot bearing with an internal (blind
hole) puller.
INSTALLATION
(1) Lubricate new bearing with Mopar high tem-
perature bearing grease or equivalent.
(2) Start new bearing into crankshaft by hand.
Then seat bearing with clutch alignment tool (Fig. 5).
(3) Lightly scuff sand flywheel surface with 180
grit emery cloth. Then clean surface with wax and
grease remover.
(4) Install clutch disc and pressure plate.
(5) Install the transmission.
LINKAGE
REMOVAL
NOTE: The clutch master cylinder, slave cylinder
and connecting line are serviced as an assembly
only. The linkage components cannot be over-
hauled or serviced separately. The cylinders and
connecting line are sealed units.
(1) Raise vehicle.
(2) Remove fasteners attaching slave cylinder to
clutch housing.
(3) Remove slave cylinder from clutch housing
(Fig. 6).
(4) Disengage clutch fluid line from body clips, if
applicable.
(5) Lower vehicle.
(6) Verify cap on clutch master cylinder reservoir
is tight to avoid spilling fluid during removal.
(7) Remove clutch master cylinder attaching nuts
(Fig. 7).
(8) Disengage captured bushing on clutch master
cylinder actuator from pivot pin on pedal arm.
Fig. 5 Pilot Bearing Installer
1 - PILOT BEARING
2 - ALIGNMENT TOOL
6 - 8 CLUTCHKJ
FLYWHEEL (Continued)

(9) Slide actuator off pivot pin.
(10) Disconnect clutch interlock safety switch
wires.(11) Remove clutch hydraulic linkage through
engine compartment.
INSTALLATION
NOTE: The clutch master cylinder, slave cylinder
and connecting line are serviced as an assembly
only. The linkage components cannot be over-
hauled or serviced separately. The cylinders and
connecting line are sealed units.
(1) Be sure reservoir cover on clutch master cylin-
der is tight to avoid spills.
(2) Position clutch linkage components in vehicle.
Work connecting line and slave cylinder downward
past engine and adjacent to clutch housing.
(3) Position clutch master cylinder on dash panel.
(4) Attach clutch master cylinder actuator to pivot
pin on clutch pedal.
(5) Install and tighten clutch master cylinder
attaching nuts to 38 N´m (28 ft. lbs.).
(6) Raise vehicle.
(7) Insert slave cylinder push rod through clutch
housing opening and into release lever. Be sure cap
on end of rod is securely engaged in lever. Check this
before installing cylinder attaching nuts.
(8) Install and tighten slave cylinder attaching
nuts to 23 N´m (17 ft. lbs.).
(9) Secure clutch fluid line in body and transmis-
sion clips.
(10) Lower vehicle.
(11) Connect clutch interlock safety switch wires.
MASTER CYLINDER
INSPECTION
The clutch fluid reservoir, master cylinder, slave
cylinder and fluid lines are pre-filled with fluid at
the factory during assembly operations.
The hydraulic system should not require additional
fluid under normal circumstances.The reservoir
fluid level will actually increase as normal
clutch wear occurs. Avoid overfilling or remov-
ing fluid from the reservoir.
Clutch fluid level is checked at the master cylinder
reservoir. An indicator ring is provided on the outside
of the reservoir. With the cap and diaphragm
removed, fluid level should not be above indicator
ring.
To avoid contaminating the hydraulic fluid during
inspection, wipe reservoir and cover clean before
removing the cap.
Fig. 6 SLAVE CYLINDER
1 - CLUTCH SLAVE CYLINDER
Fig. 7 CLUTCH PEDAL
1 - CYLINDER
2 - ACTUATOR SHAFT
3 - ACTUATOR EYE
4 - PEDAL PIN
5 - CONNECTOR
KJCLUTCH 6 - 9
LINKAGE (Continued)

SERPENTINE DRIVE BELT DIAGNOSIS CHART
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
RIB CHUNKING (ONE OR MORE
RIBS HAS SEPARATED FROM
BELT BODY)1. Foreign objects imbedded in pulley
grooves.1. Remove foreign objects from
pulley grooves. Replace belt.
2. Installation damage. 2. Replace belt.
RIB OR BELT WEAR 1. Pulley(s) misaligned. 1. Align pulley(s).
2. Abrasive environment. 2. Clean pulley(s). Replace belt if
necessary.
3. Rusted pulley(s). 3. Clean rust from pulley(s).
4. Sharp or jagged pulley groove tips. 4. Replace pulley.
5. Rubber deteriorated. 5. Replace belt.
LONGITUDINAL BELT
CRACKING (CRACKS BETWEEN
TWO RIBS)1. Belt has mistracked from pulley
groove.1. Replace belt.
2. Pulley groove tip has worn away
rubber to tensile member.2. Replace belt.
BELT SLIPS 1. Belt slipping because of insufficient
tension.1. Replace automatic belt tensioner.
2. Belt routed 2. Verify belt routing.
incorrectly
3. Incorrect belt. 3. Replace belt.
4. Belt or pulley subjected to
substance (belt dressing, oil ethylene
glycol) that has reduced friction.4. Replace belt and clean pulleys.
5. Driven component bearing failure. 5. Replace faulty component
bearing.
6. Belt glazed and hardened from
heat and excessive slippage.6. Replace belt.
ªGROOVE JUMPING9(BELT
DOES NOT MAINTAIN CORRECT
POSITION ON PULLEY)1. Belt tension either too high or too
low.1. Replace automatic belt tensioner.
2. Belt routed 2. Verify belt routing.
incorrectly.
3. Incorrect belt. 3. Replace belt.
4. Pulley(s) not within design
tolerance.4. Replace pulley(s).
5. Foreign object(s) in grooves. 5. Remove foreign objects from
grooves.
6. Pulley misalignment. 6. Check and replace.
7. Belt cord line is broken. 7. Replace belt.
7 - 16 ACCESSORY DRIVEKJ
ACCESSORY DRIVE (Continued)

REMOVAL
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE THE CYLINDER
BLOCK DRAIN PLUGS OR LOOSEN THE RADIATOR
DRAINCOCK WITH THE SYSTEM HOT AND UNDER
PRESSURE. SERIOUS BURNS FROM COOLANT
CAN OCCUR. REFER TO COOLING SYSTEM DRAIN-
ING.
Do not waste reusable coolant. If the solution is
clean, drain the coolant into a clean container for
reuse.
WARNING: CONSTANT TENSION HOSE CLAMPS
ARE USED ON MOST COOLING SYSTEM HOSES.
WHEN REMOVING OR INSTALLING, USE ONLY
TOOLS DESIGNED FOR SERVICING THIS TYPE OF
CLAMP, SUCH AS SPECIAL CLAMP TOOL (NUMBER
6094) (Fig. 6). SNAP-ON CLAMP TOOL (NUMBER
HPC-20) MAY BE USED FOR LARGER CLAMPS.
ALWAYS WEAR SAFETY GLASSES WHEN SERVIC-
ING CONSTANT TENSION CLAMPS.
CAUTION: A number or letter is stamped into the
tongue of constant tension clamps (Fig. 7). If
replacement is necessary, use only an original
equipment clamp with matching number or letter.
CAUTION: When removing the radiator or A/C con-
denser for any reason, note the location of all radi-
ator-to-body and radiator-to-A/C condenser rubber
air seals (Fig. 8). These are used at the top, bottom
and sides of the radiator and A/C condenser. To
prevent overheating, these seals must be installed
to their original positions.(1) Disconnect the negative battery cable at bat-
tery.
(2) Drain coolant from radiator (Refer to 7 -
COOLING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
Fig. 6 Hose Clamp Tool - Typical
1 - HOSE CLAMP TOOL 6094
2 - HOSE CLAMP
Fig. 7 Clamp Number/Letter Location - Typical
1 - TYPICAL CONSTANT TENSION HOSE CLAMP
2 - CLAMP NUMBER/LETTER LOCATION
3 - TYPICAL HOSE
Fig. 8 Air Seals - Typical
1 - AIR DAM
2 - RADIATOR
3 - AIR DAM
4 - A/C CONDENSER
5 - AIR SEAL
KJENGINE 7 - 23
RADIATOR (Continued)

(3) Remove the front grill (Refer to 23 - BODY/EX-
TERIOR/GRILLE - REMOVAL).
(4) Remove the cooling fan from the engine, if
equipped.
(5) Remove the two radiator mounting bolts.
(6) Disconnect both transmission cooler lines from
radiator.
(7) Disconnect the connector for the electric fan.
(8) Disconnect the power steering cooler line from
cooler.
(9) Disconnect the radiator upper and lower hoses.
(10) Disconnect the overflow hose from radiator.
(11) The lower part of radiator is equipped with
two alignment dowel pins (Fig. 9). They are located
on the bottom of radiator tank and fit into rubber
grommets. These rubber grommets are pressed into
the radiator lower crossmember.
WARNING: THE AIR CONDITIONING SYSTEM (IF
EQUIPPED) IS UNDER A CONSTANT PRESSURE
EVEN WITH THE ENGINE OFF. REFER TO REFRIG-
ERANT WARNINGS IN, HEATING AND AIR CONDI-
TIONING BEFORE HANDLING ANY AIR
CONDITIONING COMPONENT.
NOTE: The radiator and radiator cooling fan can be
removed as an assembly. It is not necessary toremove the cooling fan before removing or install-
ing the radiator.
(12) Gently lift up and remove radiator from vehi-
cle. Be careful not to scrape the radiator fins against
any other component. Also be careful not to disturb
the air conditioning condenser (if equipped).
CLEANING
Clean radiator fins With the engine cold, apply cold
water and compressed air to the back (engine side) of
the radiator to flush the radiator and/or A/C con-
denser of debris.
INSPECTION
The radiator cooling fins should be checked for
damage or deterioration. Inspect cooling fins to make
sure they are not bent or crushed, these areas result
in reduced heat exchange causing the cooling system
to operate at higher temperatures. Inspect the plastic
end tanks for cracks, damage or leaks.
Inspect the radiator neck for damage or distortion.
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: Before installing the radiator or A/C con-
denser, be sure the radiator-to-body and radiator-to-
A/C condenser rubber air seals are properly
fastened to their original positions. These are used
at the top, bottom and sides of the radiator and A/C
condenser. To prevent overheating, these seals
must be installed to their original positions.
(1) Gently lower the radiator and fan shroud into
the vehicle. Guide the two radiator alignment dowels
into the rubber grommets located in lower radiator
crossmember.
(2) Connect the radiator upper and lower hoses
and hose clamps to radiator.
CAUTION: The tangs on the hose clamps must be
positioned straight down.
(3) Install coolant reserve/overflow tank hose at
radiator.
(4) Connect both transmission cooler lines at the
radiator.
(5) Install both radiator mounting bolts.
(6) Reconnect the electric cooling fan.
(7) Install the grill (Refer to 23 - BODY/EXTERI-
OR/GRILLE - INSTALLATION).
(8) Reinstall the cooling fan to the engine.
(9) Rotate the fan blades (by hand) and check for
interference at fan shroud.
(10) Refill cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(11) Connect battery cable at battery.
(12) Start and warm engine. Check for leaks.
Fig. 9 Radiator Alignment Dowels - Typical
1 - RADIATOR
2 - ALIGNMENT DOWEL
3 - RADIATOR LOWER ISOLATOR
4 - RADIATOR LOWER CROSSMEMBER
7 - 24 ENGINEKJ
RADIATOR (Continued)

CAUTION: Do not pry water pump at timing chain
case/cover. The machined surfaces may be dam-
aged resulting in leaks.
(11) Remove water pump and gasket. Discard gas-
ket.
CLEANING
Clean the gasket mating surface. Use caution not
to damage the gasket sealing surface.
INSPECTION
Inspect the water pump assembly for cracks in the
housing, Water leaks from shaft seal, Loose or rough
turning bearing or Impeller rubbing either the pump
body or timing chain case/cover.
INSTALLATION
The water pump on 3.7L engines is bolted directly
to the engine timing chain case cover.
(1) Clean gasket mating surfaces.
(2) Using a new gasket, position water pump and
install mounting bolts as shown. (Fig. 20). Tighten
water pump mounting bolts to 54 N´m (40 ft. lbs.)
torque.
(3) Spin water pump to be sure that pump impel-
ler does not rub against timing chain case/cover.
(4) Connect radiator lower hose to water pump.
(5) Relax tension from belt tensioner. Install drive
belt (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/
DRIVE BELTS - INSTALLATION).CAUTION: When installing the serpentine accessory
drive belt, belt must be routed correctly. If not,
engine may overheat due to water pump rotating in
wrong direction. Refer to (Fig. 21) for correct belt
routing. Or, refer to the Belt Routing Label located
in the engine compartment. The correct belt with
correct length must be used.
(6) Position upper fan shroud and fan blade/vis-
cous fan drive assembly.
(7) Be sure the upper and lower portions of the fan
shroud are firmly connected. All air must flow
through the radiator.
(8) Install two fan shroud-to-radiator screws.
(9) Be sure of at least 25 mm (1.0 inches) between
tips of fan blades and fan shroud.
(10) Install fan blade/viscous fan drive assembly to
water pump shaft (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/
FAN DRIVE VISCOUS CLUTCH - INSTALLATION).
(11) Fill cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(12) Connect negative battery cable.
(13) Start and warm the engine. Check for leaks.
Fig. 20 Water Pump InstallationÐ3.7L
1 - WATER PUMP
2 - TIMING CHAIN COVER
Fig. 21 Belt Routing 3.7L
1 - GENERATOR PULLEY
2 - ACCESSORY DRIVE BELT
3 - POWER STEERING PUMP PULLEY
4 - CRANKSHAFT PULLEY
5 - IDLER PULLEY
6 - TENSIONER
7 - A/C COMPRESSOR PULLEY
8 - WATER PUMP PULLEY
KJENGINE 7 - 31
WATER PUMP (Continued)

DRIVE BELTS -2.4L
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - SERPENTINE
DRIVE BELT DIAGNOSIS
When diagnosing serpentine drive belts, small
cracks that run across ribbed surface of belt from rib
to rib (Fig. 2), are considered normal. These are not a
reason to replace belt. However, cracks running along
a rib (not across) arenotnormal. Any belt with
cracks running along a rib must be replaced (Fig. 2).
Also replace belt if it has excessive wear, frayed cords
or severe glazing.
Refer to SERPENTINE DRIVE BELT DIAGNOSIS
CHART for further belt diagnosis.
SERPENTINE DRIVE BELT DIAGNOSIS CHART
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
RIB CHUNKING (ONE OR MORE
RIBS HAS SEPARATED FROM
BELT BODY)1. Foreign objects imbedded in
pulley grooves.1. Remove foreign objects from
pulley grooves. Replace belt.
2. Installation damage. 2. Replace belt.
RIB OR BELT WEAR 1. Pulley(s) misaligned. 1. Align pulley(s).
2. Abrasive environment. 2. Clean pulley(s). Replace belt if
necessary.
3. Rusted pulley(s). 3. Clean rust from pulley(s).
4. Sharp or jagged pulley groove
tips.4. Replace pulley.
5. Rubber deteriorated. 5. Replace belt.
LONGITUDINAL BELT CRACKING
(CRACKS BETWEEN TWO RIBS)1. Belt has mistracked from pulley
groove.1. Replace belt.
2. Pulley groove tip has worn away
rubber to tensile member.2. Replace belt.
Fig. 2 Serpentine Accessory Drive Belt Wear
Patterns
1 - NORMAL CRACKS BELT OK
2 - NOT NORMAL CRACKS REPLACE BELT
KJACCESSORY DRIVE7s-15