2002 JEEP LIBERTY replace head gasket

CYLINDER COMBUSTION PRESSURE LEAKAGE DIAGNOSIS CHART
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION
AIR ESCAPES THROUGH
THROTTLE BODYIntake valve bent, burnt, or not
seated properlyInspect valve and valve seat.
Reface or replace, as necessary.
Inspect valve springs. Replace as
necessary.
AIR ESCAPES THROUGH
TAILPIPEExhaust valve bent, burnt, or not
seated properlyInspect valve and valve seat.
Reface or replace, as necessary.
Inspect valve springs. Replace as
necessary.
AIR ESCAPES THROUGH
RADIATORHead gasket leaking or cracked
cylinder head or blockRemove cylinder head and inspect.
Replace defective part
MORE THAN 50% LEAKAGE
FROM ADJACENT CYLINDERSHead gasket leaking or crack in
cylinder head or block between
adjacent cylindersRemove cylinder head and inspect.
Replace gasket, head, or block as
necessary
MORE THAN 25% LEAKAGE AND
AIR ESCAPES THROUGH OIL
FILLER CAP OPENING ONLYStuck or broken piston rings;
cracked piston; worn rings and/or
cylinder wallInspect for broken rings or piston.
Measure ring gap and cylinder
diameter, taper and out-of-round.
Replace defective part as necessary
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - ENGINE GASKET
SURFACE PREPARATION
To ensure engine gasket sealing, proper surface
preparation must be performed, especially with the
use of aluminum engine components and multi-layer
steel cylinder head gaskets.
Neveruse the following to clean gasket surfaces:
²Metal scraper
²Abrasive pad or paper to clean cylinder block
and head
²High speed power tool with an abrasive pad or a
wire brush (Fig. 1)
NOTE: Multi-Layer Steel (MLS) head gaskets require
a scratch free sealing surface.
Only use the following for cleaning gasket surfaces:
²Solvent or a commercially available gasket
remover
²Plastic or wood scraper (Fig. 1)
²Drill motor with 3M RolocŸ Bristle Disc (white
or yellow) (Fig. 1)
CAUTION: Excessive pressure or high RPM (beyond
the recommended speed), can damage the sealing
surfaces. The mild (white, 120 grit) bristle disc is
recommended. If necessary, the medium (yellow, 80
grit) bristle disc may be used on cast iron surfaces
with care.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - REPAIR DAMAGED
OR WORN THREADS
CAUTION: Be sure that the tapped holes maintain
the original center line.
Damaged or worn threads can be repaired. Essen-
tially, this repair consists of:
²Drilling out worn or damaged threads.
Fig. 1 Proper Tool Usage For Surface Preparation
1 - ABRASIVE PAD
2 - 3M ROLOCŸ BRISTLE DISC
3 - PLASTIC/WOOD SCRAPER
KJENGINE - 3.7L 9 - 9
ENGINE - 3.7L (Continued)

AIR CLEANER ELEMENT
REMOVAL - 3.7L
Housing removal is not necessary for element (fil-
ter) replacement.
(1) Pry up 2 spring clips (Fig. 3) from front of
housing cover (spring clips retain cover to housing).
(2) Release housing cover from 4 locating tabs
located on rear of housing, and remove cover.
(3) Remove air cleaner element (filter) from hous-
ing.
(4) Clean inside of housing before replacing ele-
ment.
INSTALLATION - 3.7L
(1) Install element into housing.
(2) Position housing cover into housing locating
tabs.
(3) Pry up spring clips and lock cover to housing.
If any air filter, air resonator, air intake tubes or
air filter housing clamps had been loosened or
removed, tighten them to 5 N´m (40 in. lbs.) torque.
CYLINDER HEAD - LEFT
DESCRIPTION - VALVE GUIDES
The valve guides are made of powered metal and
are pressed into the cylinder head. The guides are
not replaceable or serviceable, and valve guide ream-
ing is not recommended. If the guides are worn
beyond acceptable limits, replace the cylinder heads.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HYDRAULIC LASH
ADJUSTER
A tappet-like noise may be produced from several
items. Check the following items.
(1) Engine oil level too high or too low. This may
cause aerated oil to enter the adjusters and cause
them to be spongy.
(2) Insufficient running time after rebuilding cylin-
der head. Low speed running up to 1 hour may be
required.
(3) Turn engine off and let set for a few minutes
before restarting. Repeat this several times after
engine has reached normal operating temperature.
(4) Low oil pressure.
(5) The oil restrictor in cylinder head gasket or the
oil passage to the cylinder head is plugged with
debris.
(6) Air ingested into oil due to broken or cracked
oil pump pick up.
(7) Worn valve guides.
(8) Rocker arm ears contacting valve spring
retainer.
(9) Rocker arm loose, adjuster stuck or at maxi-
mum extension and still leaves lash in the system.
(10) Oil leak or excessive cam bore wear in cylin-
der head.
(11) Faulty lash adjuster.
²Check lash adjusters for sponginess while
installed in cylinder head and cam on camshaft at
base circle. Depress part of rocker arm over adjuster.
Normal adjusters should feel very firm. Spongy
adjusters can be bottomed out easily.
²Remove suspected lash adjusters, and replace.
²Before installation, make sure adjusters are at
least partially full of oil. This can be verified by little
or no plunger travel when lash adjuster is depressed.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CYLINDER HEAD
GASKET
A cylinder head gasket leak can be located between
adjacent cylinders or between a cylinder and the
adjacent water jacket.
Fig. 3 AIR CLEANER ELEMENT - 3.7L
1 - AIR INTAKE HOSE
2 - HOSE CLAMP
3 - COVER
4 - CLIPS (2)
KJENGINE - 3.7L 9 - 19

(21) Remove the cylinder head retaining bolts.
(22) Remove the cylinder head and gasket. Discard
the gasket.
CAUTION: Do not lay the cylinder head on its gas-
ket sealing surface, due to the design of the cylin-
der head gasket any distortion to the cylinder head
sealing surface may prevent the gasket from prop-
erly sealing resulting in leaks.
CLEANING
To ensure engine gasket sealing, proper surface
preparation must be performed, especially with the
use of aluminum engine components (Fig. 8). (Refer
to 9 - ENGINE - STANDARD PROCEDURE)
INSTALLATION
NOTE: The cylinder head bolts are tightened using
a torque plus angle procedure. The bolts must be
examined BEFORE reuse. If the threads are necked
down the bolts should be replaced. The M8 head
bolts, should not be reused. Use new M8 bolts.
Necking can be checked by holding a straight edge
against the threads. If all the threads do not contact
the scale, the bolt should be replaced (Fig. 9).
CAUTION: When cleaning cylinder head and cylin-
der block surfaces, DO NOT use a metal scraper
because the surfaces could be cut or ground. Use
only a wooden or plastic scraper.
(1) Clean the cylinder head and cylinder block
mating surfaces (Fig. 10).(2) Position the new cylinder head gasket on the
locating dowels.
CAUTION: When installing cylinder head, use care
not damage the tensioner arm or the guide arm.
(3) Position the cylinder head onto the cylinder
block. Make sure the cylinder head seats fully over
the locating dowels.
NOTE: The four smaller cylinder head mounting
bolts require sealant to be added to them before
installing. Failure to do so may cause leaks.
Fig. 7 Cylinder Head Access Plugs
1 - RIGHT CYLINDER HEAD ACCESS PLUG
2 - LEFT CYLINDER HEAD ACCESS PLUG
Fig. 8 Proper Tool Usage For Surface Preparation
1 - PLASTIC/WOOD SCRAPER
Fig. 9 Checking Cylinder Head Bolts for Stretching
(Necking)
1 - STRETCHED BOLT
2 - THREADS ARE NOT STRAIGHT ON LINE
3 - THREADS ARE STRAIGHT ON LINE
4 - UNSTRETCHED BOLT
9 - 22 ENGINE - 3.7LKJ
CYLINDER HEAD - LEFT (Continued)

INSTALLATION
CAUTION: Do not use harsh cleaners to clean the
cylinder head covers. Severe damage to covers
may occur.
NOTE: The gasket may be used again, provided no
cuts, tears, or deformation has occurred.
(1) Clean cylinder head cover and both sealing sur-
faces. Inspect and replace gasket as necessary.
(2) Tighten cylinder head cover bolts and double
ended studs to 12 N´m (105 in. lbs.).
(3) Install left side breather and connect breather
tube.
(4) Connect injector electrical connectors and injec-
tor harness retaining clips.
(5) Install the resonator and air inlet hose.
(6) Connect negative cable to battery.
INTAKE/EXHAUST VALVES &
SEATS
DESCRIPTION
The valves are made of heat resistant steel and
have chrome plated stems to prevent scuffing. Each
valve is actuated by a roller rocker arm which pivots
on a stationary lash adjuster. All valves use three
bead lock keepers to retain the springs and promote
valve rotation.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - REFACING
NOTE: Valve seats that are worn or burned can be
reworked, provided that correct angle and seat
width are maintained. Otherwise the cylinder head
must be replaced.
NOTE: When refacing valves and valve seats, it is
important that the correct size valve guide pilot be
used for reseating stones. A true and complete sur-
face must be obtained.
(1) Using a suitable dial indicator measure the
center of the valve seat Total run out must not
exceed 0.051 mm (0.002 in).
(2) Apply a small amount of Prussian blue to the
valve seat, insert the valve into the cylinder head,
while applying light pressure on the valve rotate the
Fig. 15 CYLINDER HEAD COVERS
1 - LEFT SIDE CYLINDER HEAD COVER
2 - RIGHT SIDE CYLINDER HEAD COVER
Fig. 16 CYLINDER HEAD COVER -TYPICAL
1 - SCREWS
2 - CYLINDER HEAD COVER
9 - 26 ENGINE - 3.7LKJ
CYLINDER HEAD COVER(S) (Continued)

(9) Using Special Tool 8516 Valve Spring Compres-
sor, install the rocker arms and the hydraulic lash
adjusters.
(10) Install the cylinder head cover. Refer to Cylin-
der Head Cover in this Section.
CYLINDER HEAD - RIGHT
DESCRIPTION
DESCRIPTION - CYLINDER HEAD
The cylinder heads are made of an aluminum alloy.
The cylinder head features two valves per cylinder
with pressed in powdered metal valve guides. The
cylinder heads also provide enclosures for the timing
chain drain, necessitating unique left and right cylin-
der heads.
DESCRIPTION - VALVE GUIDES
The valve guides are made of powered metal and
are pressed into the cylinder head. The guides are
not replaceable or serviceable, and valve guide ream-
ing is not recommended. If the guides are worn
beyond acceptable limits, replace the cylinder heads.
DESCRIPTION
The valves are made of heat resistant steel and
have chrome plated stems to prevent scuffing. Each
valve is actuated by a roller rocker arm which pivots
on a stationary lash adjuster. All valves use three
bead lock keepers to retain the springs and promote
valve rotation.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HYDRAULIC LASH
ADJUSTER
A tappet-like noise may be produced from several
items. Check the following items.
(1) Engine oil level too high or too low. This may
cause aerated oil to enter the adjusters and cause
them to be spongy.
(2) Insufficient running time after rebuilding cylin-
der head. Low speed running up to 1 hour may be
required.
(3) Turn engine off and let set for a few minutes
before restarting. Repeat this several times after
engine has reached normal operating temperature.
(4) Low oil pressure.
(5) The oil restrictor in cylinder head gasket or the
oil passage to the cylinder head is plugged with
debris.(6) Air ingested into oil due to broken or cracked
oil pump pick up.
(7) Worn valve guides.
(8) Rocker arm ears contacting valve spring
retainer.
(9) Rocker arm loose, adjuster stuck or at maxi-
mum extension and still leaves lash in the system.
(10) Oil leak or excessive cam bore wear in cylin-
der head.
(11) Faulty lash adjuster.
²Check lash adjusters for sponginess while
installed in cylinder head and cam on camshaft at
base circle. Depress part of rocker arm over adjuster.
Normal adjusters should feel very firm. Spongy
adjusters can be bottomed out easily.
²Remove suspected lash adjusters, and replace.
²Before installation, make sure adjusters are at
least partially full of oil. This can be verified by little
or no plunger travel when lash adjuster is depressed.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CYLINDER HEAD
GASKET
A cylinder head gasket leak can be located between
adjacent cylinders or between a cylinder and the
adjacent water jacket.
Possible indications of the cylinder head gasket
leaking between adjacent cylinders are:
²Loss of engine power
²Engine misfiring
²Poor fuel economy
Possible indications of the cylinder head gasket
leaking between a cylinder and an adjacent water
jacket are:
²Engine overheating
²Loss of coolant
²Excessive steam (white smoke) emitting from
exhaust
²Coolant foaming
CYLINDER-TO-CYLINDER LEAKAGE TEST
To determine if an engine cylinder head gasket is
leaking between adjacent cylinders, follow the proce-
dures in Cylinder Compression Pressure Test (Refer
to 9 - ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING). An
engine cylinder head gasket leaking between adja-
cent cylinders will result in approximately a 50±70%
reduction in compression pressure.
CYLINDER-TO-WATER JACKET LEAKAGE TEST
WARNING: USE EXTREME CAUTION WHEN THE
ENGINE IS OPERATING WITH COOLANT PRES-
SURE CAP REMOVED.
9 - 30 ENGINE - 3.7LKJ
VALVE SPRINGS (Continued)

INSPECTION
(1) Inspect the cylinder head for out-of-flatness,
using a straightedge and a feeler gauge. If measure-
ments exceed 0.0508 mm (0.002 in.) replace the cyl-
inder head.
(2) Inspect the valve seats for damage. Service the
valve seats as necessary.
(3) Inspect the valve guides for wear, cracks or
looseness. If either condition exist, replace the cylin-
der head.
INSTALLATION
NOTE: The cylinder head bolts are tightened using
a torque plus angle procedure. The bolts must be
examined BEFORE reuse. If the threads are necked
down the bolts should be replaced.
Necking can be checked by holding a straight edge
against the threads. If all the threads do not contact
the scale, the bolt should be replaced.
CAUTION: When cleaning cylinder head and cylin-
der block surfaces, DO NOT use a metal scraper
because the surfaces could be cut or ground. Use
only a wooden or plastic scraper.
(1) Clean the cylinder head and cylinder block
mating surfaces.
(2) Position the new cylinder head gasket on the
locating dowels.CAUTION: When installing cylinder head, use care
not damage the tensioner arm or the guide arm.
(3) Position the cylinder head onto the cylinder
block. Make sure the cylinder head seats fully over
the locating dowels.
NOTE: The four M8 cylinder head mounting bolts
require sealant to be added to them before install-
ing. Failure to do so may cause leaks. Do not reuse
the old M8 bolts, use new M8 bolts.
(4) Lubricate the cylinder head bolt threads with
clean engine oil and install the eight M10 bolts.
(5) Coat the four M8 cylinder head bolts with
Mopar Lock and Seal Adhesivethen install the
bolts.
The cylinder head bolts are tightened using an
angle torque procedure, however, the bolts are not a
torque-to-yield design.
(6) Tighten the bolts in sequence using the follow-
ing steps and torque values:
²Step 1: Tighten bolts 1±10, 20 N´m (15 ft. lbs.).
²Step 2: Tighten bolts 1±10, 47 N´m (35 ft. lbs.).
Tighten bolts 11±14, 25 N´m (18 ft. lbs.).
²Step 3: Tighten bolts 1±10, 90 degrees. Tighten
bolts 11±14, 30 N´m (22 ft. lbs.).
CAUTION: The nut on the right side camshaft
sprocket should not be removed for any reason, as
the sprocket and camshaft sensor target wheel is
serviced as an assembly. If the nut was removed
retorque nut to 5 N´m (44 in. lbs.).
(7) Position the secondary chain onto the camshaft
drive gear, making sure one marked chain link is on
either side of the V6 mark on the gear then using
Special Tool 8428 Camshaft Wrench, position the
gear onto the camshaft.
CAUTION: Remove excess oil from camshaft
sprocket retaining bolt before reinstalling bolt. Fail-
ure to do so may cause over-torquing of bolt result-
ing in bolt failure.
(8) Install the camshaft drive gear retaining bolt.
(9) Install the right side secondary chain guide.
(10) Install the cylinder head access plug.
(11) Re-set and install the right side secondary
chain tensioner.
(12) Remove Special Tool 8429.
(13) Install the timing chain cover.
(14) Install the crankshaft damper.Tighten damper
bolt 175 N´m (130 Ft. Lbs.).
(15) Install accessory drive belt.
(16) Install the fan shroud.
(17) Install the cylinder head cover.
(18) Install the intake manifold.
Fig. 22 Proper Tool Usage For Surface Preparation
1 - PLASTIC/WOOD SCRAPER
9 - 32 ENGINE - 3.7LKJ
CYLINDER HEAD - RIGHT (Continued)

(6) Position the camshaft drive gear into the tim-
ing chain aligning the V6 mark between the two
marked chain links (Two links marked during remov-
al).
(7) Using Special Tool 8428 Camshaft Wrench,
rotate the camshaft until the camshaft sprocket
dowel is aligned with the slot in the camshaft
sprocket. Install the sprocket onto the camshaft.
CAUTION: Remove excess oil from camshaft
sprocket bolt. Failure to do so can cause bolt over-
torque resulting in bolt failure.
(8) Remove excess oil from camshaft sprocket bolt,
then install the camshaft sprocket retaining bolt and
hand tighten.
(9) Remove timing chain wedge special tool 8379.
(10) Using Special Tool 6958 spanner wrench with
adapter pins 8346, torque the camshaft sprocket
retaining bolt to 122 N´m (90 ft. lbs.).
(11) Install the camshaft position sensor.
(12) Install the cylinder head cover.
CYLINDER HEAD COVER(S)
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect battery negative cable.
(2) Remove air cleaner assembly, resonator assem-
bly and air inlet hose.
(3) Drain cooling system, below the level of the
heater hoses. Refer to COOLING SYSTEM.(4) Remove accessory drive belt.
(5) Remove air conditioning compressor retaining
bolts and move compressor to the left.
(6) Remove heater hoses.
(7) Disconnect injector and ignition coil connectors.
(8) Disconnect and remove positive crankcase ven-
tilation (PCV) hose.
(9) Remove oil fill tube.
(10) Un-clip injector and ignition coil harness and
move away from cylinder head cover.
(11) Remove right rear breather tube and filter
assembly.
(12) Remove cylinder head cover retaining bolts.
(13) Remove cylinder head cover.
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: Do not use harsh cleaners to clean the
cylinder head covers. Severe damage to covers
may occur.
NOTE: The gasket may be used again, provided no
cuts, tears, or deformation has occurred.
(1) Clean cylinder head cover and both sealing sur-
faces. Inspect and replace gasket as necessary.
(2) Tighten cylinder head cover bolts and double
ended studs to 12 N´m (105 in. lbs).
(3) Install right rear breather tube and filter
assembly.
(4) Connect injector, ignition coil electrical connec-
tors and harness retaining clips.
(5) Install the oil fill tube.
(6) Install PCV hose.
(7) Install heater hoses.
(8) Install air conditioning compressor retaining
bolts.
(9) Install accessory drive belt
(10) Fill Cooling system
(11) Install air cleaner assembly, resonator assem-
bly and air inlet hose.
(12) Connect battery negative cable.
INTAKE/EXHAUST VALVES &
SEATS
STANDARD PROCEDURE - REFACING
NOTE: Valve seats that are worn or burned can be
reworked, provided that correct angle and seat
width are maintained. Otherwise the cylinder head
must be replaced.
Fig. 23 Camshaft Bearing Caps Tightening
Sequence
9 - 34 ENGINE - 3.7LKJ
CAMSHAFT(S) (Continued)

REMOVAL
NOTE: To remove the crankshaft from the engine,
the engine must be removed from the vehicle.
(1) Remove the engine. Refer to Engine Assembly
in this section for procedure.
(2) Remove the engine oil pump. Refer to Oil
Pump in this section for procedure.
CAUTION: DO NOT pry on the oil pan gasket when
removing the oil pan, The oil pan gasket is mounted
to the cylinder block in three locations and will
remain attached to block when removing oil pan.
Gasket can not be removed with oil pan.
(3) Remove oil pan bolts and oil pan.
(4) Remove the oil pump pickup tube and oil pan
gasket /windage tray.
(5) Remove the bedplate mounting bolts. Note the
location of the two stud bolts for installation.
(6) Remove the connecting rods from the crank-
shaft.
CAUTION: The bedplate to cylinder block mating
surface is a critical sealing surface. Do not pry on
or damage this surface in anyway.
NOTE: The bedplate contains the lower main bear-
ing halves. Use care when handling bedplate as not
to drop or damage bearing halves. Installing main
bearing halves in the wrong position will cause
sever damage to the crankshaft.
NOTE: The bedplate has pry points cast into it. Use
these points only. The pry points are shown below.
(7) Carefully pry on the pry points (Fig. 41) to
loosen the bedplate then remove the bedplate.
CAUTION: When removing the crankshaft, use care
not to damage bearing surfaces on the crankshaft.
(8) Remove the crankshaft.
(9) Remove the crankshaft tone wheel.
INSPECTION
NOTE: Thoroughly inspect the connecting rod bear-
ing bores and main bearing bores for scoring, blue-
ing or severe scratches. Further disassembly may
be required.
If connecting rod bearing bores show damage, the
cylinder heads must be removed to service the piston
and rod assemblies. If the bedplate or the cylinderblock main bearing bores show damage the engine
must be replaced.
(1) If required, remove the main bearing halves
from the cylinder block and bedplate.
(2) Thoroughly clean the bedplate to cylinder block
sealing surfaces and main bearing bores. Remove all
oil and sealant residue.
(3) Inspect the bedplate main bearing bores for
cracks, scoring or severe blueing. If either condition
exists the engine must be replaced.
(4) Inspect the crankshaft thrust washer for scor-
ing, scratches or blueing. If either condition exist
replace the thrust washer.
(5) Inspect the oil pan gasket/windage tray for
splits, tears or cracks in the gasket sealing surfaces.
Replace gasket as necessary.
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: Main bearings are select fit. Refer to
Crankshaft Main Bearings in this section for proper
bearing selections.
CAUTION: When installing crankshaft, use care not
to damage bearing surfaces on the crankshaft.
NOTE: Apply sealant to the tone wheel retaining
screws prior to installation.
(1) Lubricate upper main bearing halves with
clean engine oil.
(2) Install the crankshaft tone wheel. Torque the
mounting screws to 22 N´m (21 ft. lbs.).
(3) Position crankshaft in cylinder block.
(4) Install the thrust washers (Fig. 42).
CAUTION: The bedplate to cylinder block mating
surface must be coated with MoparTEngine RTV
sealant prior to installation. Failure to do so will
cause severe oil leaks.
NOTE: Make sure that the bedplate and cylinder
block sealing surfaces are clean and free of oil or
other contaminants. Contaminants on the sealing
surfaces may cause main bearing distortion and/or
oil leaks.
(5) Apply a 2.5mm (0.100 inch) bead of Mopart
Engine RTV sealant to the cylinder block-to-bedplate
mating surface as shown.
(6) Coat the crankshaft main bearing journals
with clean engine oil and position the bedplate onto
the cylinder block.
KJENGINE - 3.7L 9 - 43
CRANKSHAFT (Continued)