2002 JEEP LIBERTY part time

OPERATION
Fuel is picked up in the fuel tank by the fuel pump
module. This module is located on the bottom of the
fuel tank.
A fuel return system is provided within the fuel
pump module using check valves. A separate fuel
return line from the engine to the tank is not used.
The fuel pressure regulator and the main fuel filter
are not combined. They are separate items.
The fuel tank assembly consists of: the fuel tank,
fuel pump module assembly, fuel pump module lock
ring/gasket, ORVR components. Refer to 25, Emis-
sion Control System for ORVR information.
A fuel filler/vent tube assembly using a pressure/
vacuum, 1/4 turn fuel filler cap is used. The fuel
filler tube contains a flap door located below the fuel
fill cap. A one-way check valve is installed into the
tanks fuel fill fitting.
Also to be considered part of the fuel system is the
evaporation control system and ORVR system. This
is designed to reduce the emission of fuel vapors into
the atmosphere. The description and function of the
Evaporative Control System is found in 25, Emission
Control Systems.
Both fuel filters (mounted to front of fuel tank, and
inside the bottom fuel pump module) are designed for
extended service. They do not require normal sched-
uled maintenance. The bottom section of the fuel
pump module (with included filter) should only be
replaced if a diagnostic procedure indicates to do so.
Also, the fuel filter mounted to the front of the fuel
tank should only be replaced if a diagnostic proce-
dure indicates to do so.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - FUEL PRESSURE
LEAK DOWN TEST
Use this test in conjunction with the Fuel Pump
Pressure Test and Fuel Pump Capacity Test.
Check Valve Operation:The electric fuel pump
outlet contains a one-way check valve to prevent fuel
flow back into the tank and to maintain fuel supply
line pressure (engine warm) when pump is not oper-
ational. It is also used to keep the fuel supply line
full of gasoline when pump is not operational. After
the vehicle has cooled down, fuel pressure may drop
to 0 psi (cold fluid contracts), but liquid gasoline will
remain in fuel supply line between the check valve
and fuel injectors.Fuel pressure that has
dropped to 0 psi on a cooled down vehicle
(engine off) is a normal condition.When the elec-
tric fuel pump is activated, fuel pressure should
immediately(1±2 seconds) rise to specification.
Abnormally long periods of cranking to restart a
hotengine that has been shut down for a short
period of time may be caused by:
²Fuel pressure bleeding past a fuel injector(s).²Fuel pressure bleeding past the check valve in
the fuel pump module.
(1) Disconnect the fuel inlet line at fuel rail. Refer
to Quick Connect Fittings for procedures. On some
engines, air cleaner housing removal may be neces-
sary before fuel line disconnection.
(2) Obtain correct Fuel Line Pressure Test Adapter
Tool Hose. Tool number 6539 is used for 5/16º fuel
lines and tool number 6631 is used for 3/8º fuel lines.
(3) Connect correct Fuel Line Pressure Test
Adapter Tool Hose between disconnected fuel line
and fuel rail (Fig. 2).
(4) Connect the 0-414 kPa (0-60 psi) fuel pressure
test gauge (from Gauge Set 5069) to the test port on
the appropriate Adaptor Tool.The DRBtIII Scan
Tool along with the PEP module, the 500 psi
pressure transducer, and the transducer-to-test
port adapter may also be used in place of the
fuel pressure gauge.
The fittings on both tools must be in good
condition and free from any small leaks before
performing the proceeding test.
(5) Start engine and bring to normal operating
temperature.
(6) Observe test gauge. Normal operating pressure
should be 339 kPa +/±34 kPa (49.2 psi +/±5 psi).
(7) Shut engine off.
Fig. 2 CONNECTING ADAPTER TOOLÐTYPICAL
1 - VEHICLE FUEL LINE
2 - TEST PORT ªTº
3 - SPECIAL TOOL 6923, 6631, 6541 OR 6539
4 - FUEL PRESSURE TEST GAUGE
5 - FUEL LINE CONNECTION AT RAIL
6 - FUEL RAIL
KJFUEL DELIVERY 14 - 3
FUEL DELIVERY (Continued)

COLUMN
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
COLUMN
DESCRIPTION..........................5
OPERATION - SERVICE PRECAUTIONS......5
REMOVAL.............................5
INSTALLATION..........................7
SPECIFICATIONS
TORQUE CHART......................8
SPECIAL TOOLS
STEERING COLUMN....................8
IGNITION SWITCH
DESCRIPTION..........................8
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - IGNITION
SWITCH.............................8
REMOVAL
IGNITION SWITCH REMOVAL.............9INSTALLATION
IGNITION SWITCH INSTALLATION.........9
KEY-IN IGNITION SWITCH
DESCRIPTION.........................10
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - KEY-IN IGNITION
SWITCH............................10
LOCK CYLINDER
REMOVAL.............................10
INSTALLATION.........................11
INTERMEDIATE SHAFT
REMOVAL.............................11
INSTALLATION.........................11
STEERING WHEEL
REMOVAL.............................12
INSTALLATION.........................12
COLUMN
DESCRIPTION
The standard non-tilt and tilt steering column has
been designed to be serviced as an assembly. The col-
umn is connected to the steering gear with a one
piece shaft. The upper half has a support bearing
mounted to a bracket. The bracket mounts to the
frame rail with two nuts. The shaft is serviceable.
The key cylinder, switches, clock spring, trim shrouds
and steering wheel are serviced separately.
OPERATION - SERVICE PRECAUTIONS
Safety goggles should be worn at all times when
working on steering columns.
To service the steering wheel, switches or airbag,
refer to Electrical - Restraints and follow all WARN-
INGS and CAUTIONS.
WARNING: THE AIRBAG SYSTEM IS A SENSITIVE,
COMPLEX ELECTRO-MECHANICAL UNIT. BEFORE
ATTEMPTING TO DIAGNOSE, REMOVE OR INSTALL
THE AIRBAG SYSTEM COMPONENTS YOU MUST
FIRST DISCONNECT AND ISOLATE THE BATTERY
NEGATIVE (GROUND) CABLE. THEN WAIT TWOMINUTES FOR THE SYSTEM CAPACITOR TO DIS-
CHARGE. FAILURE TO DO SO COULD RESULT IN
ACCIDENTAL DEPLOYMENT OF THE AIRBAG AND
POSSIBLE PERSONAL INJURY. THE FASTENERS,
SCREWS, AND BOLTS, ORIGINALLY USED FOR
THE AIRBAG COMPONENTS, HAVE SPECIAL COAT-
INGS AND ARE SPECIFICALLY DESIGNED FOR THE
AIRBAG SYSTEM. THEY MUST NEVER BE
REPLACED WITH ANY SUBSTITUTES. ANYTIME A
NEW FASTENER IS NEEDED, REPLACE WITH THE
CORRECT FASTENERS PROVIDED IN THE SERVICE
PACKAGE OR FASTENERS LISTED IN THE PARTS
BOOKS.REMOVAL
(1) Position front wheelsstraight ahead.
(2) Remove and isolate the negative ground cable
from the battery.
(3) Remove the airbag, (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
RESTRAINTS/DRIVER AIRBAG - REMOVAL).
NOTE: If equipped with cruise control, disconnect
clock spring harness from the cruise switch har-
ness on the steering wheel.
KJCOLUMN 19 - 5

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - WATER LEAKS
Water leaks can be caused by poor sealing,
improper body component alignment, body seam
porosity, missing plugs, or blocked drain holes. Cen-
trifugal and gravitational force can cause water to
drip from a location away from the actual leak point,
making leak detection difficult. All body sealing
points should be water tight in normal wet-driving
conditions. Water flowing downward from the front of
the vehicle should not enter the passenger or luggage
compartment. Moving sealing surfaces will not
always seal water tight under all conditions. At
times, side glass or door seals will allow water to
enter the passenger compartment during high pres-
sure washing or hard driving rain (severe) condi-
tions. Overcompensating on door or glass
adjustments to stop a water leak that occurs under
severe conditions can cause premature seal wear and
excessive closing or latching effort. After completing
a repair, water test vehicle to verify leak has stopped
before returning vehicle to use.
VISUAL INSPECTION BEFORE WATER LEAK TESTS
Verify that floor and body plugs are in place, body
drains are clear, and body components are properly
aligned and sealed. If component alignment or seal-
ing is necessary, refer to the appropriate section of
this group for proper procedures.
WATER LEAK TESTS
WARNING: DO NOT USE ELECTRIC SHOP LIGHTS
OR TOOLS IN WATER TEST AREA. PERSONAL
INJURY CAN RESULT.
When the conditions causing a water leak have
been determined, simulate the conditions as closely
as possible.
²If a leak occurs with the vehicle parked in a
steady light rain, flood the leak area with an open-
ended garden hose.
²If a leak occurs while driving at highway speeds
in a steady rain, test the leak area with a reasonable
velocity stream or fan spray of water. Direct the
spray in a direction comparable to actual conditions.
²If a leak occurs when the vehicle is parked on an
incline, hoist the end or side of the vehicle to simu-
late this condition. This method can be used when
the leak occurs when the vehicle accelerates, stops or
turns. If the leak occurs on acceleration, hoist the
front of the vehicle. If the leak occurs when braking,
hoist the back of the vehicle. If the leak occurs on left
turns, hoist the left side of the vehicle. If the leak
occurs on right turns, hoist the right side of the vehi-cle. For hoisting recommendations refer to Group 0,
Lubrication and Maintenance, General Information
section.
WATER LEAK DETECTION
To detect a water leak point-of-entry, do a water
test and watch for water tracks or droplets forming
on the inside of the vehicle. If necessary, remove inte-
rior trim covers or panels to gain visual access to the
leak area. If the hose cannot be positioned without
being held, have someone help do the water test.
Some water leaks must be tested for a considerable
length of time to become apparent. When a leak
appears, find the highest point of the water track or
drop. The highest point usually will show the point of
entry. After leak point has been found, repair the
leak and water test to verify that the leak has
stopped.
Locating the entry point of water that is leaking
into a cavity between panels can be difficult. The
trapped water may splash or run from the cavity,
often at a distance from the entry point. Most water
leaks of this type become apparent after accelerating,
stopping, turning, or when on an incline.
MIRROR INSPECTION METHOD
When a leak point area is visually obstructed, use
a suitable mirror to gain visual access. A mirror can
also be used to deflect light to a limited-access area
to assist in locating a leak point.
BRIGHT LIGHT LEAK TEST METHOD
Some water leaks in the luggage compartment can
be detected without water testing. Position the vehi-
cle in a brightly lit area. From inside the darkened
luggage compartment inspect around seals and body
seams. If necessary, have a helper direct a drop light
over the suspected leak areas around the luggage
compartment. If light is visible through a normally
sealed location, water could enter through the open-
ing.
PRESSURIZED LEAK TEST METHOD
When a water leak into the passenger compart-
ment cannot be detected by water testing, pressurize
the passenger compartment and soap test exterior of
the vehicle. To pressurize the passenger compart-
ment, close all doors and windows, start engine, and
set heater control to high blower in HEAT position. If
engine can not be started, connect a charger to the
battery to ensure adequate voltage to the blower.
With interior pressurized, apply dish detergent solu-
tion to suspected leak area on the exterior of the
vehicle. Apply detergent solution with spray device or
soft bristle brush. If soap bubbles occur at a body
seam, joint, seal or gasket, the leak entry point could
be at that location.
23 - 2 BODYKJ
BODY (Continued)

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - WIND NOISE
Wind noise is the result of most air leaks. Air leaks
can be caused by poor sealing, improper body compo-
nent alignment, body seam porosity, or missing plugs
in the engine compartment or door hinge pillar areas.
All body sealing points should be airtight in normal
driving conditions. Moving sealing surfaces will not
always seal airtight under all conditions. At times,
side glass or door seals will allow wind noise to be
noticed in the passenger compartment during high
cross winds. Over compensating on door or glass
adjustments to stop wind noise that occurs under
severe conditions can cause premature seal wear and
excessive closing or latching effort. After a repair pro-
cedure has been performed, test vehicle to verify
noise has stopped before returning vehicle to use.
Wind noise can also be caused by improperly fitted
exterior moldings or body ornamentation. Loose
moldings can flutter, creating a buzzing or chattering
noise. An open cavity or protruding edge can create a
whistling or howling noise. Inspect the exterior of the
vehicle to verify that these conditions do not exist.
VISUAL INSPECTION BEFORE TESTS
Verify that floor and body plugs are in place and
body components are aligned and sealed. If compo-
nent alignment or sealing is necessary, refer to the
appropriate section of this group for proper proce-
dures.
ROAD TESTING WIND NOISE
(1) Drive the vehicle to verify the general location
of the wind noise.
(2) Apply 50 mm (2 in.) masking tape in 150 mm
(6 in.) lengths along weatherstrips, weld seams or
moldings. After each length is applied, drive the vehi-
cle. If noise goes away after a piece of tape is applied,
remove tape, locate, and repair defect.
POSSIBLE CAUSE OF WIND NOISE
²Moldings standing away from body surface can
catch wind and whistle.
²Gaps in sealed areas behind overhanging body
flanges can cause wind-rushing sounds.
²Misaligned movable components.
²Missing or improperly installed plugs in pillars.
²Weld burn through holes.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - BODY LUBRICATION
All mechanisms and linkages should be lubricated
when necessary. This will maintain ease of operation
and provide protection against rust and excessivewear. The weatherstrip seals should be lubricated to
prolong their life as well as to improve door sealing.
All applicable exterior and interior vehicle operat-
ing mechanisms should be inspected and cleaned.
Pivot/sliding contact areas on the mechanisms should
then be lubricated.
(1) When necessary, lubricate the operating mech-
anisms with the specified lubricants.
(2) Apply silicone lubricant to a cloth and wipe it
on door seals to avoid over-spray that can soil pas-
senger's clothing.
(3) Before applying lubricant, the component
should be wiped clean. After lubrication, any excess
lubricant should be removed.
(4) The hood latch, latch release mechanism, latch
striker, and safety latch should be lubricated period-
ically.
(5) The door lock cylinders should be lubricated
twice each year (preferably autumn and spring).
²Spray a small amount of lock cylinder lubricant
directly into the lock cylinder.
²Apply a small amount to the key and insert it
into the lock cylinder.
²Rotate it to the locked position and then back to
the unlocked position several times.
²Remove the key. Wipe the lubricant from it with
a clean cloth to avoid soiling of clothing.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - HEAT STAKING
(1) Remove trim panel.
(2) Bend or move the trim panel components at
the heat staked joints. Observe the heat staked loca-
tions and/or component seams for looseness.
(3) Heat stake the components.
(a) If the heat staked or component seam loca-
tion is loose, hold the two components tightly
together and using a soldering gun with a flat tip,
melt the material securing the components
together. Do not over heat the affected area, dam-
age to the exterior of the trim panel may occur.
(b) If the heat staked material is broken or miss-
ing, use a hot glue gun to apply new material to
the area to be repaired. The panels that are being
heat staked must be held together while the apply-
ing the glue. Once the new material is in place, it
may be necessary to use a soldering gun to melt
the newly applied material. Do not over heat the
affected area, damage to the exterior of the trim
panel may occur.
(4) Allow the repaired area to cool and verify the
repair.
(5) Install trim panel.
KJBODY 23 - 3
BODY (Continued)

STATIONARY GLASS
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
DOOR GLASS
REMOVAL............................172
INSTALLATION........................172
QUARTER WINDOW
REMOVAL............................172
INSTALLATION........................172WINDSHIELD
WARNING
WINDSHIELD SAFETY PRECAUTIONS....173
REMOVAL............................173
INSTALLATION........................173
DOOR GLASS
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the rear door glass run channel. (Refer
to 23 - BODY/DOORS - REAR/GLASS RUN CHAN-
NEL - REMOVAL)
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the rear door glass run channel. (Refer
to 23 - BODY/DOORS - REAR/GLASS RUN CHAN-
NEL - INSTALLATION)
QUARTER WINDOW
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the headliner as necessary to gain
access to the glass seal from the inside. (Refer to 23 -
BODY/INTERIOR/HEADLINER - REMOVAL)
(2) Cut urethane bonding from around quarter
window glass using a suitable sharp cold knife. A
pneumatic cutting device can be used if available.
(3) Separate glass from vehicle.
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: Open a window before installing glass.
This will avoid pressurizing the passenger compart-
ment. If a door or swing gate flip-up glass is
slammed before urethane is cured, water leaks can
result.
The window opening fence should be cleaned of old
urethane bonding material.
(1) Install the headliner as necessary. (Refer to 23
- BODY/INTERIOR/HEADLINER - INSTALLATION)
(2) Clean inside of glass with Mopar Glass Cleaner
and lint-free cloth.
(3) Apply PVC (vinyl) primer 25 mm (1 in.) wide
around edge of glass. Wipe with clean/dry lint-free
cloth.
(4) Apply fence primer around edge of fence. Allow
at least eighteen minutes drying time.
(5) Apply a 10 mm (0.4 in.) bead of urethane
around window vinyl border location.
(6)
Position glass into window opening and lock clips
into place.
23 - 172 STATIONARY GLASSKJ

WINDSHIELD
WARNING
WINDSHIELD SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
WARNING: DO NOT OPERATE THE VEHICLE
WITHIN 24 HOURS OF WINDSHIELD INSTALLATION.
IT TAKES AT LEAST 24 HOURS FOR URETHANE
ADHESIVE TO CURE. IF IT IS NOT CURED, THE
WINDSHIELD MAY NOT PERFORM PROPERLY IN
AN ACCIDENT.
²URETHANE ADHESIVES ARE APPLIED AS A
SYSTEM. USE GLASS CLEANER, GLASS PREP
SOLVENT, GLASS PRIMER, PVC (VINYL) PRIMER
AND PINCH WELD (FENCE) PRIMER PROVIDED BY
THE ADHESIVE MANUFACTURER. IF NOT, STRUC-
TURAL INTEGRITY COULD BE COMPROMISED.
²DAIMLERCHRYSLER DOES NOT RECOMMEND
GLASS ADHESIVE BY BRAND. TECHNICIANS
SHOULD REVIEW PRODUCT LABELS AND TECHNI-
CAL DATA SHEETS, AND USE ONLY ADHESIVES
THAT THEIR MANUFACTURES WARRANT WILL
RESTORE A VEHICLE TO THE REQUIREMENTS OF
FMVSS 212. TECHNICIANS SHOULD ALSO INSURE
THAT PRIMERS AND CLEANERS ARE COMPATIBLE
WITH THE PARTICULAR ADHESIVE USED.
²BE SURE TO REFER TO THE URETHANE MAN-
UFACTURER'S DIRECTIONS FOR CURING TIME
SPECIFICATIONS, AND DO NOT USE ADHESIVE
AFTER ITS EXPIRATION DATE.
²VAPORS THAT ARE EMITTED FROM THE URE-
THANE ADHESIVE OR PRIMER COULD CAUSE
PERSONAL INJURY. USE THEM IN A WELL-VENTI-
LATED AREA.
²SKIN CONTACT WITH URETHANE ADHESIVE
SHOULD BE AVOIDED. PERSONAL INJURY MAY
RESULT.
²ALWAYS WEAR EYE AND HAND PROTECTION
WHEN WORKING WITH GLASS.
CAUTION: Protect all painted and trimmed surfaces
from coming in contact with urethane or primers.
Be careful not to damage painted surfaces when
removing moldings or cutting urethane around
windshield.
REMOVAL
(1) Remove inside rear view mirror. (Refer to 23 -
BODY/INTERIOR/REAR VIEW MIRROR -
REMOVAL)
(2) Remove cowl cover. (Refer to 23 - BODY/EXTE-
RIOR/COWL GRILLE - REMOVAL)(3) Remove screws attaching windshield side mold-
ing to A-pillar.
(4) Remove upper windshield molding.
(5) Cut urethane bonding from around windshield
using a suitable sharp cold knife. A pneumatic cut-
ting device can be used if available.
(6) Separate windshield from vehicle.
INSTALLATION
WARNING: REVIEW ALL WARNINGS AND CAU-
TIONS IN THIS GROUP BEFORE PRECEDING WITH
INSTALLATION.
CAUTION: Open a window before installing wind-
shield. This will avoid pressurizing the passenger
compartment. If a door or swing gate flip-up glass
is slammed before urethane is cured, water leaks
can result.
The windshield fence should be cleaned of old ure-
thane bonding material. Support spacers should be
cleaned and properly installed on weld studs or
repair screws at bottom of windshield opening.
(1) Place replacement windshield into windshield
opening. Position glass in the center of the opening
against the support spacers. Mark the glass at the
support spacers with a grease pencil or masking tape
and ink pen to use as a reference for installation.
Remove replacement windshield from windshield
opening.
(2) Position the windshield inside up on a suitable
work surface with two padded, wood 10 cm by 10 cm
by 50 cm (4 in. by 4 in. by 20 in.) blocks, placed par-
allel 75 cm (2.5 ft.) apart.
(3) Clean inside of windshield with Mopar Glass
Cleaner and lint-free cloth.
(4) Apply clear glass primer 25 mm (1 in.) wide
around edge of windshield. Wipe with clean/dry lint-
free cloth.
(5) Apply black-out primer 15 mm (.75 in.) wide on
top and sides of windshield and 25 mm (1 in.) on bot-
tom of windshield. Allow at least three minutes dry-
ing time.
(6) Position windshield spacers on lower fence
above support spacers at the edge of the windshield
opening.
(7) Align the dot on the upper molding to the tick
mark in the center of the glass and install upper
molding onto windshield.
(8) Apply a 10 mm (0.4 in.) bead of urethane
around perimeter of windshield along the inside of
the moldings. Apply two beads along the bottom
edge.
KJSTATIONARY GLASS 23 - 173

SUNROOF
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
SUNROOF
DESCRIPTION........................175
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
WATER DRAINAGE AND WIND NOISE
DIAGNOSIS.........................176
DIAGNOSTIC PROCEDURES...........176
GLASS PANEL
REMOVAL............................178
INSTALLATION........................178
ADJUSTMENTS
SUNROOF GLASS PANEL ADJUSTMENT . . 178
GLASS PANEL SEAL
REMOVAL............................178
INSTALLATION........................178
SUNSHADE
REMOVAL............................179
INSTALLATION........................179
GUIDE ASSEMBLY
REMOVAL............................179
INSTALLATION........................179
WIND DEFLECTOR
REMOVAL............................180INSTALLATION........................180
OPENING TRIM LACE
REMOVAL............................180
INSTALLATION........................180
DRAIN TUBE
REMOVAL............................180
INSTALLATION........................181
MODULE ASSEMBLY
REMOVAL............................181
INSTALLATION........................181
DRIVE MOTOR
REMOVAL............................182
INSTALLATION........................182
CONTROL MODULE
REMOVAL............................183
INSTALLATION........................183
CONTROL SWITCH
DESCRIPTION........................184
OPERATION..........................184
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING...............184
REMOVAL............................184
INSTALLATION........................184
SUNROOF
DESCRIPTION
WARNING: Keep fingers and other body parts out
of sunroof opening at all times.
The sunroof features a power sliding glass panel
and a sunshade which can be manually positioned
anywhere along its travel, rearward of glass panel
front edge.
The sunroof is electrically operated from two
switches located on the windshield header, rearwardof the map lamp. To operate the sunroof the ignition
switch must be in either the Accessory or On/Run
position. One switch (vent) is a push button type and
opens the sunroof to the vent position only. The other
switch (open/close) is a rocker type for opening and
closing the sunroof. Pressing and releasing the open
button once the sunroof will express open and the
wind deflector will raise. If the button is pressed a
second time the sunroof will stop in that position.
Pressing and holding the close button will close the
sunroof. If the close button is released the sunroof
will stop in that position.
KJSUNROOF 23 - 175

Use an adjustable vacuum test set (Special Tool
C-3707-B) and a suitable vacuum pump to test the
HVAC vacuum control system. With a finger placed
over the end of the vacuum test hose probe (Fig. 3),
adjust the bleed valve on the test set gauge to obtain
a vacuum of exactly 27 kPa (8 in. Hg.). Release and
block the end of the probe several times to verify that
the vacuum reading returns to the exact 27 kPa (8
in. Hg.) setting. Otherwise, a false reading will be
obtained during testing.
VACUUM CHECK VALVE
(1) Remove the vacuum check valve. The valve is
located in the vacuum supply tube (black) at the
HVAC system vacuum tee.
(2) Connect the test set vacuum supply hose to the
A/C Heater Control side of the valve. When con-
nected to this side of the check valve, no vacuum
should pass and the test set gauge should return to
the 27 kPa (8 in. Hg.) setting. If OK, go to Step 3. If
not OK, replace the faulty valve.
(3) Connect the test set vacuum supply hose to the
engine vacuum side of the valve. When connected to
this side of the check valve, vacuum should flow
through the valve without restriction. If not OK,
replace the faulty valve.
A/C HEATER CONTROLS
(1) Connect the test set vacuum probe to the
HVAC vacuum supply (black) tube at the tee in the
engine compartment. Position the test set gauge so
that it can be viewed from the passenger compart-
ment.(2) Place the A/C Heater Mode Control switch
knob in each mode position, one position at a time,
and pause after each selection. The test set gauge
should return to the 27 kPa (8 in. Hg.) setting
shortly after each selection is made. If not OK, a
component or vacuum line in the vacuum circuit of
the selected mode has a leak. See the procedure in
Locating Vacuum Leaks.
CAUTION: Do not use lubricant on the switch ports
or in the holes in the plug, as lubricant will ruin the
vacuum valve in the switch. A drop of clean water
in the connector plug holes will help the connector
slide onto the switch ports.
LOCATING VACUUM LEAKS
WARNING: ON VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH AIR-
BAGS, DISABLE THE AIRBAG SYSTEM BEFORE
ATTEMPTING ANY STEERING WHEEL, STEERING
COLUMN, OR INSTRUMENT PANEL COMPONENT
DIAGNOSIS OR SERVICE. DISCONNECT AND ISO-
LATE THE BATTERY NEGATIVE (GROUND) CABLE,
THEN WAIT TWO MINUTES FOR THE AIRBAG SYS-
TEM CAPACITOR TO DISCHARGE BEFORE PER-
FORMING FURTHER DIAGNOSIS OR SERVICE. THIS
IS THE ONLY SURE WAY TO DISABLE THE AIRBAG
SYSTEM. FAILURE TO TAKE THE PROPER PRE-
CAUTIONS COULD RESULT IN AN ACCIDENTAL
AIRBAG DEPLOYMENT AND POSSIBLE PERSONAL
INJURY.
(1) Disconnect the vacuum harness connector from
the back of the HVAC control head(Refer to 24 -
HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/CONTROLS/A/C
HEATER CONTROL - REMOVAL).
(2) Connect the test set vacuum hose probe to each
port in the HVAC housing half of the vacuum har-
ness connector, one port at a time, and pause after
each connection. The test set gauge should return to
the 27 kPa (8 in. Hg.) setting shortly after each con-
nection is made. If OK, replace the faulty A/C Heater
Control. If not OK, go to Step 3.
(3) Determine the vacuum line color of the vacuum
circuit that is leaking. To determine the vacuum line
colors, refer to the Vacuum Circuits chart (Fig. 4).
(4) Disconnect and plug the vacuum line from the
component (fitting, actuator, valve, switch, or reser-
voir) on the other end of the leaking circuit. Instru-
ment panel disassembly or removal may be necessary
to gain access to some components. See the appropri-
ate service procedures.
Fig. 3 ADJUST VACUUM TEST BLEED VALVE
1 - VACUUM PUMP TOOL C-4289
2 - VACUUM TEST SET C-3707
3 - BLEED VALVE
4 - PROBE
KJHEATING & AIR CONDITIONING 24 - 7
HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING (Continued)