2002 JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE Power

(2) If complaint was based on noise when braking,
check suspension components. Jounce front and rear
of vehicle and listen for noise that might be caused
by loose, worn or damaged suspension or steering
components.
(3) Inspect brake fluid level and condition. Note
that the brake reservoir fluid level will decrease in
proportion to normal lining wear.Also note that
brake fluid tends to darken over time. This is
normal and should not be mistaken for contam-
ination.
(a) If fluid level is abnormally low, look for evi-
dence of leaks at calipers, brake lines, master cyl-
inder, and HCU.
(b) If fluid appears contaminated, drain out a
sample to examine. System will have to be flushed
if fluid is separated into layers, or contains a sub-
stance other than brake fluid. The system seals,
cups, hoses, master cylinder, and HCU will also
have to be replaced after flushing. Use clean brake
fluid to flush the system.
(4) Check parking brake operation. Verify free
movement and full release of cables and lever. Also
note if vehicle was being operated with parking
brake partially applied.
(5) Check brake pedal operation. Verify that pedal
does not bind and has adequate free play. If pedal
lacks free play, check pedal and power booster for
being loose or for bind condition. Do not road test
until condition is corrected.
(6) Check booster vacuum check valve and hose.
(7) If components checked appear OK, road test
the vehicle.
ROAD TESTING
(1) If complaint involved low brake pedal, pump
pedal and note if it comes back up to normal height.
(2) Check brake pedal response with transmission
in neutral and engine running. Pedal should remain
firm under constant foot pressure.
(3) During road test, make normal and firm brake
stops in 25-40 mph range. Note faulty brake opera-
tion such as low pedal, hard pedal, fade, pedal pulsa-
tion, pull, grab, drag, noise, etc.
(4) Attempt to stop the vehicle with the parking
brake only (do not exceed 25 mph) and note grab,
drag, noise, etc.
PEDAL FALLS AWAY
A brake pedal that falls away under steady foot
pressure is generally the result of a system leak. The
leak point could be at a brake line, fitting, hose, or
caliper. If leakage is severe, fluid will be evident at
or around the leaking component.Internal leakage (seal by-pass) in the master cylin-
der caused by worn or damaged piston cups, may
also be the problem cause.
An internal leak in the ABS system may also be
the problem with no visual fluid leak.
LOW PEDAL
If a low pedal is experienced, pump the pedal sev-
eral times. If the pedal comes back up, the most
likely causes are worn linings, rotors, or calipers are
not sliding on the slide pins. The proper course of
action is to inspect and replace all worn component.
SPONGY PEDAL
A spongy pedal is most often caused by air in the
system. However substandard brake hoses can cause
a spongy pedal. The proper course of action is to
bleed the system, and replace substandard quality
brake hoses if suspected.
HARD PEDAL OR HIGH PEDAL EFFORT
A hard pedal or high pedal effort may be due to
lining that is water soaked, contaminated, glazed, or
badly worn. The power booster, check valve, check
valve seal/grommet or vacuum leak could also cause
a hard pedal or high pedal effort.
PEDAL PULSATION
Pedal pulsation is caused by components that are
loose, or beyond tolerance limits.
The primary cause of pulsation are disc brake
rotors with excessive lateral runout or thickness vari-
ation. Other causes are loose wheel bearings or cali-
pers and worn, damaged tires.
NOTE: Some pedal pulsation may be felt during
ABS activation.
BRAKE DRAG
Brake drag occurs when the lining is in constant
contact with the rotor or drum. Drag can occur at one
wheel, all wheels, fronts only, or rears only.
Drag is a product of incomplete brake release.
Drag can be minor or severe enough to overheat the
linings, rotors and park brake drums.
Minor drag will usually cause slight surface charring
of the lining. It can also generate hard spots in rotors
and park brake drums from the overheat-cool down pro-
cess. In most cases, the rotors, wheels and tires are
quite warm to the touch after the vehicle is stopped.
Severe drag can char the brake lining all the way
through. It can also distort and score rotors to the
point of replacement. The wheels, tires and brake
components will be extremely hot. In severe cases,
the lining may generate smoke as it chars from over-
heating.
WJBRAKES - BASE 5 - 3
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)

Common causes of brake drag are:
²Parking brake partially applied.
²Loose/worn wheel bearing.
²Seized caliper.
²Caliper binding.
²Loose caliper mounting.
²Mis-assembled components.
²Damaged brake lines.
If brake drag occurs at the front, rear or all
wheels, the problem may be related to a blocked mas-
ter cylinder return port, faulty power booster (binds-
does not release) or the ABS system.
BRAKE FADE
Brake fade is usually a product of overheating
caused by brake drag. However, brake overheating
and resulting fade can also be caused by riding the
brake pedal, making repeated high deceleration stops
in a short time span, or constant braking on steep
mountain roads. Refer to the Brake Drag information
in this section for causes.
BRAKE PULL
Front brake pull condition could result from:
²Contaminated lining in one caliper
²Seized caliper piston
²Binding caliper
²Loose caliper
²Rusty caliper slide surfaces
²Improper brake shoes
²Damaged rotor
²Wheel alignment.
²Tire pressure.
A worn, damaged wheel bearing or suspension compo-
nent are further causes of pull. A damaged front tire
(bruised, ply separation) can also cause pull.
A common and frequently misdiagnosed pull condi-
tion is where direction of pull changes after a few
stops. The cause is a combination of brake drag fol-
lowed by fade at one of the brake units.
As the dragging brake overheats, efficiency is so
reduced that fade occurs. Since the opposite brake
unit is still functioning normally, its braking effect is
magnified. This causes pull to switch direction in
favor of the normally functioning brake unit.
An additional point when diagnosing a change in
pull condition concerns brake cool down. Remember
that pull will return to the original direction, if the
dragging brake unit is allowed to cool down (and is
not seriously damaged).
REAR BRAKE DRAG OR PULL
Rear drag or pull may be caused by improperly
adjusted park brake shoes or seized parking brake
cables, contaminated lining, bent or binding shoes or
improperly assembled components. This is particu-
larly true when only one rear wheel is involved.However, when both rear wheels are affected, the
master cylinder or ABS system could be at fault.
BRAKES DO NOT HOLD AFTER DRIVING THROUGH DEEP
WATER PUDDLES
This condition is generally caused by water soaked
lining. If the lining is only wet, it can be dried by
driving with the brakes very lightly applied for a
mile or two. However, if the lining is both soaked and
dirt contaminated, cleaning and or replacement will
be necessary.
BRAKE LINING CONTAMINATION
Brake lining contamination is mostly a product of
leaking calipers or worn seals, driving through deep
water puddles, or lining that has become covered with
grease and grit during repair. Contaminated lining
should be replaced to avoid further brake problems.
WHEEL AND TIRE PROBLEMS
Some conditions attributed to brake components
may actually be caused by a wheel or tire problem.
A damaged wheel can cause shudder, vibration and
pull. A worn or damaged tire can also cause pull.
NOTE: Propshaft angle can also cause vibration/
shudder.
Severely worn tires with very little tread left can
produce a grab-like condition as the tire loses and
recovers traction. Flat-spotted tires can cause vibra-
tion and generate shudder during brake operation.
Tire damage such as a severe bruise, cut, ply separa-
tion, low air pressure can cause pull and vibration.
BRAKE NOISES
Some brake noise is common on some disc brakes
during the first few stops after a vehicle has been
parked overnight or stored. This is primarily due to
the formation of trace corrosion (light rust) on metal
surfaces. This light corrosion is typically cleared from
the metal surfaces after a few brake applications
causing the noise to subside.
BRAKE SQUEAK/SQUEAL
Brake squeak or squeal may be due to linings that
are wet or contaminated with brake fluid, grease, or oil.
Glazed linings and rotors with hard spots can also con-
tribute to squeak. Dirt and foreign material embedded
in the brake lining will also cause squeak/squeal.
A very loud squeak or squeal is frequently a sign of
severely worn brake lining. If the lining has worn
through to the brake shoes in spots, metal-to-metal
contact occurs. If the condition is allowed to continue,
rotors may become so scored that replacement is nec-
essary.
5 - 4 BRAKES - BASEWJ
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)

rates into layers, there is mineral oil or other fluid
contamination of the brake fluid.
If brake fluid is contaminated, drain and thor-
oughly flush system. Replace master cylinder with
reservoir, caliper seals, HCU and all hydraulic fluid
hoses.
SPECIFICATIONS
BRAKE FLUID
The brake fluid used in this vehicle must conform
to DOT 3 specifications and SAE J1703 standards.
No other type of brake fluid is recommended or
approved for usage in the vehicle brake system. Use
only Mopar brake fluid or an equivalent from a
tightly sealed container.
CAUTION: Never use reclaimed brake fluid or fluid
from an container which has been left open. An
open container of brake fluid will absorb moisture
from the air and contaminate the fluid.
CAUTION: Never use any type of a petroleum-based
fluid in the brake hydraulic system. Use of such
type fluids will result in seal damage of the vehicle
brake hydraulic system causing a failure of the
vehicle brake system. Petroleum based fluids would
be items such as engine oil, transmission fluid,
power steering fluid, etc.
FLUID RESERVOIR
REMOVAL
(1) Remove reservoir cap and remove fluid with a
cleansuction gun.
(2) Remove the wire connector from the brake fluid
level sensor.
(3) Insert the tool (Fig. 47) provided with the res-
ervoir to release the reservoir retaining tabs.
(4) Pull the reservoir straight up out of the cylin-
der.
(5) Remove and discard grommets from the cylin-
der body.
INSTALLATION
(1) Lubricate new grommets with clean brake
fluid. Install new grommets into the cylinder body.
CAUTION: Do not use tools to install the grommets.
Tools may cut, or tear the grommets. Install the
grommets using finger pressure only.(2) Start reservoir in grommets then press the res-
ervoir straight down to seat the reservoir into the
cylinder grommets.
CAUTION: Do not rock the reservoir during installa-
tion.
(3) Verify retaining tabs are seated.
(4) Install the wire connector to the brake fluid
level sensor.
(5) Fill master cylinder.
MASTER CYLINDER
DESCRIPTION
The master cylinder body is made of aluminum
and contains a primary and secondary piston assem-
bly. The cylinder body including the piston assem-
blies are not serviceable. If diagnosis indicates an
internal problem with the cylinder body, it must be
replaced as an assembly. The master cylinder has a
removable reservoir and fluid level indicator. The res-
ervoir, reservoir grommets, reservoir cap and fluid
level switch are the only replaceable parts on the
master cylinder.
Fig. 47 Release Tool
1 - RESERVOIR
2 - RELEASE TOOL
3 - RETAINING TABS
WJBRAKES - BASE 5 - 23
FLUID (Continued)

OPERATION
The master cylinder bore contains a primary and
secondary piston. The primary piston supplies
hydraulic pressure to the front brakes. The secondary
piston supplies hydraulic pressure to the rear brakes.
The master cylinder reservoir stores reserve brake
fluid for the hydraulic brake circuits.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - MASTER
CYLINDER/POWER BOOSTER
NOTE: Inspect and repair any external fluid leaks
before performing test.
(1) Start engine and check booster vacuum hose
connections. A hissing noise indicates vacuum leak.
Correct any vacuum leak before proceeding.
(2)
Stop engine and shift transmission into Neutral.
(3) Pump brake pedal until all vacuum reserve in
booster is depleted.
(4) Press and hold brake pedal under light foot
pressure. The pedal should hold firm, if the pedal
falls away the master cylinder or HCU may be faulty
(internal leakage).
(5) Start engine and note pedal action. It should
fall away slightly under light foot pressure then hold
firm. If no pedal action is discernible, power booster,
vacuum supply, or vacuum check valve is faulty. Pro-
ceed to the POWER BOOSTER VACUUM TEST.
(6) If the POWER BOOSTER VACUUM TEST
passes, rebuild booster vacuum reserve as follows:
Release brake pedal. Increase engine speed to 1500
rpm, close the throttle and turn off the engine.
(7) Wait a minimum of 90 seconds and try brake
action again. Booster should provide two or more vac-
uum assisted pedal applications. If vacuum assist is
not provided, some component of the booster is faulty.
POWER BOOSTER VACUUM TEST
(1) Connect vacuum gauge to booster check valve
with short length of hose and T-fitting (Fig. 48).
(2) Start and run engine at curb idle speed for one
minute.
(3) Observe the vacuum supply. If vacuum supply
is not adequate, repair vacuum supply.
(4) Clamp hose shut between vacuum source and
check valve.
(5) Stop engine and observe vacuum gauge.
(6) If vacuum drops more than one inch HG (33
millibars) within 15 seconds, booster diaphragm,
check valve or check valve seal/grommet is faulty.
POWER BOOSTER CHECK VALVE TEST
(1) Disconnect vacuum hose from check valve.
(2)
Remove check valve and valve seal from booster.
(3) Use a hand operated vacuum pump for test.(4) Apply 51-67 kPa (15-20 in.) vacuum at large
end of check valve (Fig. 49).
(5) Vacuum should hold steady. If gauge on pump
indicates vacuum loss the check valve and seal
should be replaced.
Fig. 48 Typical Booster Vacuum Test Connections
1 - TEE FITTING
2 - SHORT CONNECTING HOSE
3 - CHECK VALVE
4 - CHECK VALVE HOSE
5 - CLAMP TOOL
6 - INTAKE MANIFOLD
7 - VACUUM GAUGE
Fig. 49 Vacuum Check Valve And Seal
1 - BOOSTER CHECK VALVE
2 - APPLY TEST VACUUM HERE
3 - VALVE SEAL
5 - 24 BRAKES - BASEWJ
MASTER CYLINDER (Continued)

tions also allows the driver to set steering wheel tilt
and seat position to the most comfortable position.
The position of the brake and accelerator pedals can
be adjusted without compromising safety or comfort
in actuating the pedals. Repositioning the pedals
does not change the effort required for actuation.
Change of pedal position is accomplished by means
of a motor driven screw. Operating the adjustable
pedal switch activates the pedal drive motor. The
pedal drive motor turns a screw that changes the
position of the brake and accelerator pedals. The
pedal can be moved rearward (closer to the driver) or
forward (away from driver). The brake pedal is
moved on its drive screw to a position where the
driver feels most comfortable (Fig. 52).
The accelerator pedal is moved at the same time
and the same distance as the brake pedal. The accel-
erator pedal adjustment screw is turned by a flexible
shaft slaved off the brake adjustment screw.
Neither the pedal drive motor nor drive mecha-
nism are subject to the mechanical stress of brake or
accelerator application.
²SYSTEM FEATURES:
²Range of Adjustment: The pedals may be
adjusted up to 3 in. (75 mm)
²Pedal Adjustment Speed: 0.5 in./sec (12.5
mm/sec)
²Pedal Adjustment Inhibitors: Pedal adjust-
ment is inhibited when the vehicle is in reverse or
when cruise control is activated.
²Memory: An optional memory feature is avail-
able. This allows storing of one or two preferred
pedal positions in the Adjustable Pedal Module
(APM). A preferred position can be stored and
recalled using the door-mounted switches. A stored
pedal position can be recalled (but not stored)
using the Remote Keyless Entry (RKE).
²
Adjustable Pedal Feedback Message: The Elec-
tronic Vehicle Information Center (EVIC) will display
a message when the APS is disabled. ie:9Adjustable
Pedal Disabled - Cruise Control Engaged9or9Adjust-
able Pedal Disabled - Vehicle in Reverse9.
²Damage Prevention: Foot pressure or debris
can stall pedal adjustment. In order to avoid dam-
age to system components during pedal adjust-
ment, the APM will monitor pedal position sensor
voltage. If the APM does not detect expected volt-
age change within 1.5 seconds, it will cut power to
the adjustable pedal motor.
OPERATION
The brake pedal is attached to the booster push
rod. When the pedal is depressed, the primary
booster push rod is depressed which moves the
booster secondary rod. The booster secondary rod
depresses the master cylinder piston.
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - NON-ADJUSTABLE PEDAL
(1) Remove retainer clip that holds booster to
pedal pin (Fig. 53).
Fig. 52 ADJUSTABLE PEDALS ASSEMBLY
1 - HARNESS
2 - ADJUSTABLE PEDAL BRACKET
3 - CABLE
4 - ACCELERATOR PEDAL
5 - BRAKE PEDAL
6 - ADJUSTABLE PEDAL MOTOR
7 - BRAKE LIGHT SWITCH
8 - ADJUSTABLE PEDALS MODULE
Fig. 53 Push Rod Retainer Clip
1 - RETAINER CLIP
2 - PUSH ROD
3 - PEDAL PIN
5 - 26 BRAKES - BASEWJ
PEDAL (Continued)

(5) Install the cluster bezel (Refer to 23 - BODY/
INSTRUMENT PANEL/CLUSTER BEZEL -
INSTALLATION).
(6) Reconnect the negative battery cable.
POWER BRAKE BOOSTER
DESCRIPTION
The booster assembly consists of a housing divided
into separate chambers by two internal diaphragms.
The outer edge of each diaphragm is attached to the
booster housing.
Two push rods are used in the booster. The pri-
mary push rod connects the booster to the brake
pedal. The secondary push rod connects the booster
to the master cylinder to stroke the cylinder pistons.
OPERATION
The atmospheric inlet valve is opened and closed
by the primary push rod. Booster vacuum supply is
through a hose attached to an intake manifold fittingat one end and to the booster check valve at the
other. The vacuum check valve in the booster housing
is a one-way device that prevents vacuum leak back.
Power assist is generated by utilizing the pressure
differential between normal atmospheric pressure
and a vacuum. The vacuum needed for booster oper-
ation is taken directly from the engine intake mani-
fold. The entry point for atmospheric pressure is
through a filter and inlet valve at the rear of the
housing (Fig. 59) .
The chamber areas forward of the booster dia-
phragms are exposed to vacuum from the intake
manifold. The chamber areas to the rear of the dia-
phragms, are exposed to normal atmospheric pres-
sure of 101.3 kilopascals (14.7 pounds/square in.).
Brake pedal application causes the primary push
rod to open the atmospheric inlet valve. This exposes
the area behind the diaphragms to atmospheric pres-
sure. The resulting pressure differential provides the
extra apply force for power assist.
The booster check valve, check valve grommet and
booster seals are serviceable.
WJBRAKES - BASE 5 - 29
PEDAL MOTOR (Continued)

Fig. 59 Power Brake Booster±Typical
1 - VACUUM CHECK VALVE
2 - FRONT DIAPHRAGM
3 - REAR DIAPHRAGM
4 - HOUSING
5 - SEAL
6 - AIR FILTER
7 - PRIMARY PUSH ROD (TO BRAKE PEDAL)8 - ATMOSPHERIC INLET VALVE ASSEMBLY
9 - BOOSTER MOUNTING STUDS (4)
10 - SECONDARY PUSH ROD (TO MASTER CYLINDER)
11 - MASTER CYLINDER MOUNTING STUD (2)
12 - SPRING
5 - 30 BRAKES - BASEWJ
POWER BRAKE BOOSTER (Continued)

REMOVAL
(1) Remove the master cylinder.
(2) Disconnect vacuum hose at booster check valve.
(3) Remove retainer clip (Fig. 60) that holds
booster push rod on pedal pin. Then slide push rod
off pin.
(4) Remove four nuts (Fig. 61) that attach booster
to dash panel.
(5) In engine compartment, slide booster forward,
tilt it upward slightly, and remove it from engine
compartment.
INSTALLATION
(1) Check condition of grommet that secures check
valve in booster. Replace grommet if cut, torn, or
loose.
(2) Install new booster dash seal.
(3) Align and position booster on engine compart-
ment side of dash panel.
(4) Inside passenger compartment:
(a) Lubricate pedal pin Mopar multi-mileage
grease.
(b) Install booster attaching nuts on studs.
Tighten attaching nuts to 39 N´m (29 ft. lbs.).
(c) Slide booster push rod on pedal pin. Then
secure rod to pin with retainer clip.
(5) In engine compartment, attach vacuum hose to
booster check valve.(6) Install the master cylinder with new gasket
and nuts.
CAUTION: The master cylinder installation proce-
dure must be perform as written or damage to the
booster/master cylinder may occur.
(7) Fill and bleed brake system.
ROTORS
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - FRONT DISC
BRAKE ROTOR
ROTOR MINIMUM THICKNESS
Rotor minimum usable thickness is 24.5 mm (0.964
in.). Do not resurface a rotor if machining would
cause thickness to fall below this limit.
Measure rotor thickness at the center of the brake
shoe contact surface. Replace the rotor if worn below
minimum thickness, or if refinishing would reduce
thickness below the allowable minimum.
FRONT ROTOR THICKNESS VARIATION
Variations in rotor thickness will cause pedal pul-
sation, noise and shudder.
Fig. 60 Retainer Clip
1 - RETAINER CLIP
2 - PUSH ROD
3 - PEDAL PIN
Fig. 61 Power Brake Booster Mounting
1 - BOOSTER
2 - DASH PANEL
WJBRAKES - BASE 5 - 31
POWER BRAKE BOOSTER (Continued)