2002 JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE Oil pan

(13) Check bearing rotating torque with a inch
pound torque wrench (Fig. 87). The pinion gear rotat-
ing torque should be:
²
Original Bearings: 1 to 2.25 N´m (10 to 20 in. lbs.).
²New Bearings: 2.8 to 4 N´m (25 to 35 in. lbs.).
(14) Invert the differential case and start two ring
gear bolts. This will provide case-to-ring gear bolt
hole alignment.
(15) Invert the differential case in the vise.
(16) Installnewring gear bolts and alternately
tighten to 129-142 N´m (95-105 ft. lbs.) (Fig. 88).
CAUTION: Never reuse the ring gear bolts. The
bolts can fracture causing extensive damage.
NOTE: If equipped with Veri-LokTdifferential install
oil feed plenum and side bearing.
(17) Install differential in housing.
CAUTION: When installing a Vari-lokTdifferential
(Fig. 89), the oil feed tube must point to the bottom
of the housing. If differential is installed with the oil
feed tube pointed toward the top, the anti-rotation
tabs will be damaged.
(18)
Verify differential bearing preload, gear mesh
and contact pattern. Refer to Ajustments for procedure.
(19) Install differential cover and fill with gear
lubricant.(20) Install the propeller shaft with the reference
marks aligned.
(21) Remove supports and lower vehicle.
Fig. 87 PINION ROTATING TORQUE
1 - PINION YOKE/COMPANION FLANGE
2 - INCH POUND TORQUE WRENCH
Fig. 88 RING GEAR
1 - TORQUE WRENCH
2 - RING GEAR BOLT
3 - RING GEAR
4 - CASE
Fig. 89 VARI-LOK
1 - ANTI-ROTATION TAB
2 - OIL FEED TUBE
WJREAR AXLE - 226RBA 3 - 129
PINION GEAR/RING GEAR (Continued)

Common causes of brake drag are:
²Parking brake partially applied.
²Loose/worn wheel bearing.
²Seized caliper.
²Caliper binding.
²Loose caliper mounting.
²Mis-assembled components.
²Damaged brake lines.
If brake drag occurs at the front, rear or all
wheels, the problem may be related to a blocked mas-
ter cylinder return port, faulty power booster (binds-
does not release) or the ABS system.
BRAKE FADE
Brake fade is usually a product of overheating
caused by brake drag. However, brake overheating
and resulting fade can also be caused by riding the
brake pedal, making repeated high deceleration stops
in a short time span, or constant braking on steep
mountain roads. Refer to the Brake Drag information
in this section for causes.
BRAKE PULL
Front brake pull condition could result from:
²Contaminated lining in one caliper
²Seized caliper piston
²Binding caliper
²Loose caliper
²Rusty caliper slide surfaces
²Improper brake shoes
²Damaged rotor
²Wheel alignment.
²Tire pressure.
A worn, damaged wheel bearing or suspension compo-
nent are further causes of pull. A damaged front tire
(bruised, ply separation) can also cause pull.
A common and frequently misdiagnosed pull condi-
tion is where direction of pull changes after a few
stops. The cause is a combination of brake drag fol-
lowed by fade at one of the brake units.
As the dragging brake overheats, efficiency is so
reduced that fade occurs. Since the opposite brake
unit is still functioning normally, its braking effect is
magnified. This causes pull to switch direction in
favor of the normally functioning brake unit.
An additional point when diagnosing a change in
pull condition concerns brake cool down. Remember
that pull will return to the original direction, if the
dragging brake unit is allowed to cool down (and is
not seriously damaged).
REAR BRAKE DRAG OR PULL
Rear drag or pull may be caused by improperly
adjusted park brake shoes or seized parking brake
cables, contaminated lining, bent or binding shoes or
improperly assembled components. This is particu-
larly true when only one rear wheel is involved.However, when both rear wheels are affected, the
master cylinder or ABS system could be at fault.
BRAKES DO NOT HOLD AFTER DRIVING THROUGH DEEP
WATER PUDDLES
This condition is generally caused by water soaked
lining. If the lining is only wet, it can be dried by
driving with the brakes very lightly applied for a
mile or two. However, if the lining is both soaked and
dirt contaminated, cleaning and or replacement will
be necessary.
BRAKE LINING CONTAMINATION
Brake lining contamination is mostly a product of
leaking calipers or worn seals, driving through deep
water puddles, or lining that has become covered with
grease and grit during repair. Contaminated lining
should be replaced to avoid further brake problems.
WHEEL AND TIRE PROBLEMS
Some conditions attributed to brake components
may actually be caused by a wheel or tire problem.
A damaged wheel can cause shudder, vibration and
pull. A worn or damaged tire can also cause pull.
NOTE: Propshaft angle can also cause vibration/
shudder.
Severely worn tires with very little tread left can
produce a grab-like condition as the tire loses and
recovers traction. Flat-spotted tires can cause vibra-
tion and generate shudder during brake operation.
Tire damage such as a severe bruise, cut, ply separa-
tion, low air pressure can cause pull and vibration.
BRAKE NOISES
Some brake noise is common on some disc brakes
during the first few stops after a vehicle has been
parked overnight or stored. This is primarily due to
the formation of trace corrosion (light rust) on metal
surfaces. This light corrosion is typically cleared from
the metal surfaces after a few brake applications
causing the noise to subside.
BRAKE SQUEAK/SQUEAL
Brake squeak or squeal may be due to linings that
are wet or contaminated with brake fluid, grease, or oil.
Glazed linings and rotors with hard spots can also con-
tribute to squeak. Dirt and foreign material embedded
in the brake lining will also cause squeak/squeal.
A very loud squeak or squeal is frequently a sign of
severely worn brake lining. If the lining has worn
through to the brake shoes in spots, metal-to-metal
contact occurs. If the condition is allowed to continue,
rotors may become so scored that replacement is nec-
essary.
5 - 4 BRAKES - BASEWJ
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)

ADJUSTABLE PEDAL SWITCH
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the steering column opening cover
(Fig. 2)(Refer to 23 - BODY/INSTRUMENT PANEL/
STEERING COLUMN OPENING COVER - REMOV-
AL).
(2) Disconnect the electrical connector from the
adjustable pedal switch.
(3) Remove the switch from the steering column
opening cover by squeezing the retaining clips
together and pushing the switch outwards (Fig. 3).
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the switch to the steering column open-
ing cover by pushing the switch inwards seating the
retaining clips to the steering column opening cover
(Fig. 3).
(2) Reconnect the electrical connector to the
adjustable pedal switch.
(3) Install the steering column opening cover (Fig.
2)(Refer to 23 - BODY/INSTRUMENT PANEL/
STEERING COLUMN OPENING COVER - INSTAL-
LATION).
BRAKE LINES
DESCRIPTION
Flexible rubber hose is used at both front brakes,
rear brakes and at the rear axle junction block. Dou-
ble walled steel tubing is used. Double inverted style
and ISO style flares are used on the brake lines.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - BRAKE HOSES
AND LINES
Flexible rubber hose is used at both front and rear
brakes and at the rear axle junction block. Inspect
the hoses whenever the brake system is serviced, at
every engine oil change, or whenever the vehicle is in
for service.
Inspect the hoses for surface cracking, scuffing, or
worn spots. Replace any brake hose immediately if
the fabric casing of the hose is exposed due to cracks
or abrasions.
Also check brake hose installation. Faulty installa-
tion can result in kinked, twisted hoses, or contact
with the wheels and tires or other chassis compo-
nents. All of these conditions can lead to scuffing,
cracking and eventual failure.
The steel brake lines should be inspected periodi-
cally for evidence of corrosion, twists, kinks, leaks, or
other damage. Heavily corroded lines will eventually
rust through causing leaks. In any case, corroded or
damaged brake lines should be replaced.
Factory replacement brake lines and hoses are rec-
ommended to ensure quality, correct length and supe-
rior fatigue life. Care should be taken to make sure
that brake line and hose mating surfaces are clean
and free from nicks and burrs. Also remember that
right and left brake hoses are not interchangeable.
Use new copper gaskets at all caliper connections.
Be sure brake line connections are properly made
(not cross threaded) and tightened to recommended
torque.
Fig. 2 STEERING COLUMN OPENING COVER
REMOVAL/INSTALL
1 - INSTRUMENT PANEL TOP PAD
2 - STEERING COLUMN OPENING COVER
3 - SCREW (3)
Fig. 3 ADJUSTABLE PEDAL SWITCH
1 - RETAINING CLIPS
2 - ELECTRICAL CONNECTION
5 - 8 BRAKES - BASEWJ

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - COOLING SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS CHART
COOLING SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS CHART
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
TEMPERATURE GAUGE
READS LOW1. Has a Diagnostic Trouble Code
(DTC) been set indicating a stuck
open thermostat?1. Refer to (Refer to 25 - EMISSIONS
CONTROL - DESCRIPTION) for On-Board
Diagnostics and DTC information. Replace
thermostat if necessary.
2. Is the temperature sending unit
connected?2. Check the temperature sensor connector.
(Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/ENGINE
COOLANT TEMP SENSOR -
DESCRIPTION). Repair connector if
necessary.
3. Is the temperature gauge
operating OK?3. Check gauge operation. Repair as
necessary.
4. Coolant level low in cold ambient
temperatures accompanied with
poor heater performance.4. Check coolant level in the coolant
reserve/overflow tank and the radiator.
Inspect system for leaks. Repair leaks as
necessary.
5. Improper operation of internal
heater doors or heater controls.5. Inspect heater and repair as necessary.
(Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR
CONDITIONING - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING)
TEMPERATURE GAUGE
READS HIGH OR THE
COOLANT LAMP
ILLUMINATES.
COOLANT MAY OR MAY
NOT BE LOST OR
LEAKING FROM THE
COOLING SYSTEM1. Trailer is being towed, a steep hill
is being climbed, vehicle is operated
in slow moving traffic, or engine is
being idled with very high ambient
(outside) temperatures and the air
conditioning is on. Higher altitudes
could aggravate these conditions.1. This may be a temporary condition and
repair is not necessary. Turn off the air
conditioning and attempt to drive the vehicle
without any of the previous conditions.
Observe the temperature gauge. The gauge
should return to the normal range. If the
gauge does not return to the normal range,
determine the cause for overheating and
repair.
2. Is the temperature gauge reading
correctly?2. Check gauge. (Refer to Group 8J -
INSTRUMENT CLUSTER). Repair as
necessary.
3. Is the temperature warning
illuminating unnecessarily?3. Check warning lamp operation. (Refer to
Group 8J - INSTRUMENT CLUSTER).Repair
as necessary.
4. Coolant low in coolant reserve/
overflow tank and radiator?4. Check for coolant leaks and repair as
necessary. (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
5. Pressure cap not installed tightly.
If cap is loose, boiling point of
coolant will be lowered. Also refer to
the following Step 6.5. Tighten cap
WJCOOLING 7 - 5
COOLING (Continued)

Carefully remove radiator pressure cap from filler
neck and check coolant level. Push down on cap to
disengage it from stop tabs. Wipe inside of filler neck
and examine lower inside sealing seat for nicks,
cracks, paint, dirt and solder residue. Inspect radia-
tor-to- reserve/overflow tank hose for internal
obstructions. Insert a wire through the hose to be
sure it is not obstructed.
Inspect cams on outside of filler neck. If cams are
damaged, seating of pressure cap valve and tester
seal will be affected.
Attach pressure tester (7700 or an equivalent) to
radiator filler neck (Fig. 6).
Operate tester pump to apply 103.4 kPa (15 psi)
pressure to system. If hoses enlarge excessively or
bulges while testing, replace as necessary. Observe
gauge pointer and determine condition of cooling sys-
tem according to following criteria:
Holds Steady:If pointer remains steady for two
minutes, serious coolant leaks are not present in sys-
tem. However, there could be an internal leak that
does not appear with normal system test pressure. If
it is certain that coolant is being lost and leaks can-
not be detected, inspect for interior leakage or per-
form Internal Leakage Test.
Drops Slowly:Indicates a small leak or seepage
is occurring. Examine all connections for seepage or
slight leakage with a flashlight. Inspect radiator,
hoses, gasket edges and heater. Seal small leak holes
with a Sealer Lubricant (or equivalent). Repair leak
holes and inspect system again with pressure
applied.
Drops Quickly:Indicates that serious leakage is
occurring. Examine system for external leakage. If
leaks are not visible, inspect for internal leakage.
Large radiator leak holes should be repaired by a
reputable radiator repair shop.INTERNAL LEAKAGE INSPECTION
Remove engine oil pan drain plug and drain a
small amount of engine oil. If coolant is present in
the pan, it will drain first because it is heavier than
oil. An alternative method is to operate engine for a
short period to churn the oil. After this is done,
remove engine dipstick and inspect for water glob-
ules. Also inspect transmission dipstick for water
globules and transmission fluid cooler for leakage.
WARNING: WITH RADIATOR PRESSURE TESTER
TOOL INSTALLED ON RADIATOR, DO NOT ALLOW
PRESSURE TO EXCEED 110 KPA (20 PSI). PRES-
SURE WILL BUILD UP QUICKLY IF A COMBUSTION
LEAK IS PRESENT. TO RELEASE PRESSURE,
ROCK TESTER FROM SIDE TO SIDE. WHEN
REMOVING TESTER, DO NOT TURN TESTER MORE
THAN 1/2 TURN IF SYSTEM IS UNDER PRESSURE.
Operate engine without pressure cap on radiator
until thermostat opens. Attach a Pressure Tester to
filler neck. If pressure builds up quickly it indicates a
combustion leak exists. This is usually the result of a
cylinder head gasket leak or crack in engine. Repair
as necessary.
If there is not an immediate pressure increase,
pump the Pressure Tester. Do this until indicated
pressure is within system range of 110 kPa (16 psi).
Fluctuation of gauge pointer indicates compression or
combustion leakage into cooling system.
Because the vehicle is equipped with a catalytic
converter,do notremove spark plug cables or short
out cylinders to isolate compression leak.
If the needle on dial of pressure tester does not
fluctuate, race engine a few times to check for an
abnormal amount of coolant or steam. This would be
emitting from exhaust pipe. Coolant or steam from
exhaust pipe may indicate a faulty cylinder head gas-
ket, cracked engine cylinder block or cylinder head.
A convenient check for exhaust gas leakage into
cooling system is provided by a commercially avail-
able Block Leak Check tool. Follow manufacturers
instructions when using this product.
COMBUSTION LEAKAGE TEST - WITHOUT
PRESSURE TESTER
DO NOT WASTE reusable coolant. If solution is
clean, drain coolant into a clean container for reuse.
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE CYLINDER BLOCK
DRAIN PLUGS OR LOOSEN RADIATOR DRAIN-
COCK WITH SYSTEM HOT AND UNDER PRESSURE.
SERIOUS BURNS FROM COOLANT CAN OCCUR.
Drain sufficient coolant to allow thermostat
removal. (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/ENGINE
COOLANT THERMOSTAT - REMOVAL). Remove
Fig. 6 Pressure Testing Cooling SystemÐTypical
1 - TYPICAL COOLING SYSTEM PRESSURE TESTER
WJCOOLING 7 - 11
COOLING (Continued)

accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ACCES-
SORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS - REMOVAL).
Add coolant to radiator to bring level to within 6.3
mm (1/4 in) of top of thermostat housing.
CAUTION: Avoid overheating. Do not operate
engine for an excessive period of time. Open drain-
cock immediately after test to eliminate boil over.
Start engine and accelerate rapidly three times, to
approximately 3000 rpm while observing coolant. If
internal engine combustion gases are leaking into
cooling system, bubbles will appear in coolant. If bub-
bles do not appear, internal combustion gas leakage
is not present.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - COOLING SYSTEM
DEAERATION
As the engine operates, any air trapped in cooling
system gathers under the radiator cap. The next time
the engine is operated, thermal expansion of coolant
will push any trapped air past radiator cap into the
coolant reserve/overflow tank. Here it escapes to the
atmosphere into the tank. When the engine cools
down the coolant, it will be drawn from the reserve/
overflow tank into the radiator to replace any
removed air.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDUREÐDRAINING COOLING
SYSTEM 4.7L ENGINE
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE THE CYLINDER
BLOCK DRAIN PLUGS (Fig. 7) OR LOOSEN THE
RADIATOR DRAINCOCK WITH SYSTEM HOT AND
UNDER PRESSURE. SERIOUS BURNS FROM
COOLANT CAN OCCUR.
(1) DO NOT remove radiator cap first. With engine
cold, raise vehicle on a hoist and locate radiator
draincock.
NOTE: Radiator draincock is located on the left/
lower side of radiator facing to rear of vehicle.
(2) Attach one end of a hose to the draincock. Put
the other end into a clean container. Open draincock
and drain coolant from radiator. This will empty the
coolant reserve/overflow tank. The coolant does not
have to be removed from the tank unless the system
is being refilled with a fresh mixture. When tank is
empty, remove radiator cap and continue draining
cooling system.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - REFILLING
COOLING SYSTEM 4.7L ENGINE
(1) Tighten the radiator draincock and the cylinder
block drain plug(s) (if removed).
CAUTION: Failure to purge air from the cooling sys-
tem can result in an overheating condition and
severe engine damage.
(2) Remove the cooling system bleed plug from the
radiator upper hose inlet housing. (Fig. 8)Fill system
using a 50/50 mixture of ethylene-glycol antifreeze
and low mineral content water, until coolant begains
coming out of the cooling system bleed hole. Install
the cooling system bleed plug. Fill radiator to top and
install radiator cap. Add sufficient coolant to the
reserve/overflow tank to raise level to FULL mark.
(3) With heater control unit in the HEAT position,
operate engine with radiator cap in place.
(4) After engine has reached normal operating
temperature, shut engine off and allow it to cool.
When engine is cooling down, coolant will be drawn
into the radiator from the reserve/overflow tank.
(5) Add coolant to reserve/overflow tank as neces-
sary.Only add coolant to the reserve/overflow
tank when the engine is cold. Coolant level in a
warm engine will be higher due to thermal
expansion.To purge the cooling system of all air,
this heat up/cool down cycle (adding coolant to cold
engine) must be performed three times. Add neces-
sary coolant to raise tank level to the FULL mark
after each cool down period.
Fig. 7 Drain PlugÐ4.7L Engine
1 - CYLINDER BLOCK DRAIN PLUG
2 - EXHAUST MANIFOLD AND HEAT SHIELD
7 - 12 COOLINGWJ
COOLING (Continued)

(1) Position sensor into the coolant recovery pres-
sure container (Fig. 1).
(2) Connect the coolant level sensor electrical con-
nector (Fig. 2).
(3) Close hood.
COOLANT RECOVERY PRESS
CONTAINER
DESCRIPTION
This system works along with the radiator pres-
sure cap. This is done by using thermal expansion
and contraction of the coolant to keep the coolant
free of trapped air. It provides:
²A volume for coolant expansion and contraction.
²A convenient and safe method for checking/ad-
justing coolant level at atmospheric pressure. This is
done without removing the radiator pressure cap.
²Some reserve coolant to the radiator to cover
minor leaks and evaporation or boiling losses.
As the engine cools, a vacuum is formed in the
cooling system of both the radiator and engine. Cool-
ant will then be drawn from the coolant tank and
returned to a proper level in the radiator.
The coolant reservoir/overflow system has a radia-
tor mounted pressurized cap, an overflow tube and a
plastic coolant reservoir/overflow tank (Fig. 3)
mounted to the right inner fender.
RADIATOR FAN - 4.7L
DESCRIPTION
The hydraulic fan (Fig. 4) used on vehicles
equipped the 4.7L engine, replaces both the electric
fan and the engine driven mechanical fan. The
hydraulic cooling fan is integral to the fan shroud
and is located between the radiator and the engine.
The power steering pump supplies the hydraulic
fluid and pressure to rotate the cooling fan blade,
while the electrical part of the fan is controlled by
the JTEC.
The hydraulic fan drive (motor) consists of the
three major following components:
²Steering flow control valve
Fig. 1 COOLANT LEVEL SENSOR ELECTRICAL
CONNECTOR
Fig. 2 COOLANT LEVEL SENSOR REMOVAL/
INSTALLATION
Fig. 3 Coolant Reservoir / Overflow Tank
1 - COOLANT OVERFLOW HOSE
2 - COOLANT RESERVOIR/OVERFLOW TANK
3 - COOLANT LEVEL SENSOR
4 - BOLT
WJENGINE 7 - 27
COOLANT LEVEL SENSOR (Continued)

NOTE: There is a steering flow control valve located
in the fan drive motor. This valve operates like the
flow control valve found in the typical power steer-
ing pump. Because of the design of the valve steer-
ing assist can not be effected by the radiator
cooling fan even during fan drive failure.
REMOVAL
(1) Raise vehicle on hoist.
(2) Drain cooling system.(Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE)
NOTE: The hydraulic fan drive is driven by the
power steering pump. When removing lines or
hoses from fan drive assembly use a drain pan to
catch any power steering fluid that may exit the fan
drive or the lines and hoses.NOTE: When ever the high pressure line fittings are
removed from the hydraulic fan drive the O-rings
must be replaced.
(3) Disconnect two high pressure lines at hydraulic
fan drive (Fig. 6). Remove and discard o-rings from
line fittings.
(4) Disconnect low pressure return hose at hydrau-
lic fan drive (Fig. 6).
NOTE: The lower mounting bolts can only be
accessed from under vehicle.
(5) Remove two lower mounting bolts from the
shroud (Fig. 8).
(6) Lower vehicle.
(7) Disconnect the electrical connector for the fan
control solenoid.
(8) Disconnect the radiator upper hose at the radi-
ator and position out of the way.
(9) Disconnect the power steering gear outlet hose
and fluid return hose at the cooler (Fig. 7).
Fig. 5 HYDRAULIC FAN FLUID FLOW CIRCUIT
1 - POWER STEERING RESERVOIR
2 - POWER STEERING PUMP
3 - HYDRAULIC FAN DRIVE ASSEMBLY
4 - FAN BLADE5 - HYDRAULIC FAN CONTROL SOLENOID
6 - POWER STEERING OIL COOLER
7 - STEERING GEAR
WJENGINE 7 - 29
RADIATOR FAN - 4.7L (Continued)