2002 JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE Gasket leak

ADJUSTABLE PEDAL SWITCH
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the steering column opening cover
(Fig. 2)(Refer to 23 - BODY/INSTRUMENT PANEL/
STEERING COLUMN OPENING COVER - REMOV-
AL).
(2) Disconnect the electrical connector from the
adjustable pedal switch.
(3) Remove the switch from the steering column
opening cover by squeezing the retaining clips
together and pushing the switch outwards (Fig. 3).
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the switch to the steering column open-
ing cover by pushing the switch inwards seating the
retaining clips to the steering column opening cover
(Fig. 3).
(2) Reconnect the electrical connector to the
adjustable pedal switch.
(3) Install the steering column opening cover (Fig.
2)(Refer to 23 - BODY/INSTRUMENT PANEL/
STEERING COLUMN OPENING COVER - INSTAL-
LATION).
BRAKE LINES
DESCRIPTION
Flexible rubber hose is used at both front brakes,
rear brakes and at the rear axle junction block. Dou-
ble walled steel tubing is used. Double inverted style
and ISO style flares are used on the brake lines.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - BRAKE HOSES
AND LINES
Flexible rubber hose is used at both front and rear
brakes and at the rear axle junction block. Inspect
the hoses whenever the brake system is serviced, at
every engine oil change, or whenever the vehicle is in
for service.
Inspect the hoses for surface cracking, scuffing, or
worn spots. Replace any brake hose immediately if
the fabric casing of the hose is exposed due to cracks
or abrasions.
Also check brake hose installation. Faulty installa-
tion can result in kinked, twisted hoses, or contact
with the wheels and tires or other chassis compo-
nents. All of these conditions can lead to scuffing,
cracking and eventual failure.
The steel brake lines should be inspected periodi-
cally for evidence of corrosion, twists, kinks, leaks, or
other damage. Heavily corroded lines will eventually
rust through causing leaks. In any case, corroded or
damaged brake lines should be replaced.
Factory replacement brake lines and hoses are rec-
ommended to ensure quality, correct length and supe-
rior fatigue life. Care should be taken to make sure
that brake line and hose mating surfaces are clean
and free from nicks and burrs. Also remember that
right and left brake hoses are not interchangeable.
Use new copper gaskets at all caliper connections.
Be sure brake line connections are properly made
(not cross threaded) and tightened to recommended
torque.
Fig. 2 STEERING COLUMN OPENING COVER
REMOVAL/INSTALL
1 - INSTRUMENT PANEL TOP PAD
2 - STEERING COLUMN OPENING COVER
3 - SCREW (3)
Fig. 3 ADJUSTABLE PEDAL SWITCH
1 - RETAINING CLIPS
2 - ELECTRICAL CONNECTION
5 - 8 BRAKES - BASEWJ

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
17. Viscous fan drive not operating
properly.17. Check fan drive operation and replace as
necessary. (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/
FAN DRIVE VISCOUS CLUTCH -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
18. Cylinder head gasket leaking. 18. Check for cylinder head gasket leaks.
(Refer to 7 - COOLING - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING). For repair, (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD - REMOVAL).
19. Heater core leaking. 19. Check heater core for leaks. (Refer to 24
- HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/
PLUMBING/HEATER CORE - REMOVAL).
Repair as necessary.
20. Hydraulic fan speed too low or
inopertive.20. Check for
DTC code.
Check fan operation speeds.
Refer to fan speed operation table.
Low power steering pump output. Refer to
power steering pump diagnosis - 4.7L engine.
TEMPERATURE GAUGE
READING IS
INCONSISTENT
(FLUCTUATES, CYCLES
OR IS ERRATIC)1. During cold weather operation,
with the heater blower in the high
position, the gauge reading may
drop slightly.1. A normal condition. No correction is
necessary.
2. Temperature gauge or engine
mounted gauge sensor defective or
shorted. Also, corroded or loose
wiring in this circuit.2. Check operation of gauge and repair if
necessary. Refer to Group 8J, Instrument
cluster.
3. Gauge reading rises when vehicle
is brought to a stop after heavy use
(engine still running)3. A normal condition. No correction is
necessary. Gauge should return to normal
range after vehicle is driven.
4. Gauge reading high after
re-starting a warmed up (hot)
engine.4. A normal condition. No correction is
necessary. The gauge should return to
normal range after a few minutes of engine
operation.
5. Coolant level low in radiator (air
will build up in the cooling system
causing the thermostat to open late).5. Check and correct coolant leaks. (Refer to
7 - COOLING - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
6. Cylinder head gasket leaking
allowing exhaust gas to enter
cooling system causing a thermostat
to open late.6. (a) Check for cylinder head gasket leaks.
(Refer to 7 - COOLING - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING).
(b) Check for coolant in the engine oil.
Inspect for white steam emitting from the
exhaust system. Repair as necessary.
WJCOOLING 7 - 7
COOLING (Continued)

Carefully remove radiator pressure cap from filler
neck and check coolant level. Push down on cap to
disengage it from stop tabs. Wipe inside of filler neck
and examine lower inside sealing seat for nicks,
cracks, paint, dirt and solder residue. Inspect radia-
tor-to- reserve/overflow tank hose for internal
obstructions. Insert a wire through the hose to be
sure it is not obstructed.
Inspect cams on outside of filler neck. If cams are
damaged, seating of pressure cap valve and tester
seal will be affected.
Attach pressure tester (7700 or an equivalent) to
radiator filler neck (Fig. 6).
Operate tester pump to apply 103.4 kPa (15 psi)
pressure to system. If hoses enlarge excessively or
bulges while testing, replace as necessary. Observe
gauge pointer and determine condition of cooling sys-
tem according to following criteria:
Holds Steady:If pointer remains steady for two
minutes, serious coolant leaks are not present in sys-
tem. However, there could be an internal leak that
does not appear with normal system test pressure. If
it is certain that coolant is being lost and leaks can-
not be detected, inspect for interior leakage or per-
form Internal Leakage Test.
Drops Slowly:Indicates a small leak or seepage
is occurring. Examine all connections for seepage or
slight leakage with a flashlight. Inspect radiator,
hoses, gasket edges and heater. Seal small leak holes
with a Sealer Lubricant (or equivalent). Repair leak
holes and inspect system again with pressure
applied.
Drops Quickly:Indicates that serious leakage is
occurring. Examine system for external leakage. If
leaks are not visible, inspect for internal leakage.
Large radiator leak holes should be repaired by a
reputable radiator repair shop.INTERNAL LEAKAGE INSPECTION
Remove engine oil pan drain plug and drain a
small amount of engine oil. If coolant is present in
the pan, it will drain first because it is heavier than
oil. An alternative method is to operate engine for a
short period to churn the oil. After this is done,
remove engine dipstick and inspect for water glob-
ules. Also inspect transmission dipstick for water
globules and transmission fluid cooler for leakage.
WARNING: WITH RADIATOR PRESSURE TESTER
TOOL INSTALLED ON RADIATOR, DO NOT ALLOW
PRESSURE TO EXCEED 110 KPA (20 PSI). PRES-
SURE WILL BUILD UP QUICKLY IF A COMBUSTION
LEAK IS PRESENT. TO RELEASE PRESSURE,
ROCK TESTER FROM SIDE TO SIDE. WHEN
REMOVING TESTER, DO NOT TURN TESTER MORE
THAN 1/2 TURN IF SYSTEM IS UNDER PRESSURE.
Operate engine without pressure cap on radiator
until thermostat opens. Attach a Pressure Tester to
filler neck. If pressure builds up quickly it indicates a
combustion leak exists. This is usually the result of a
cylinder head gasket leak or crack in engine. Repair
as necessary.
If there is not an immediate pressure increase,
pump the Pressure Tester. Do this until indicated
pressure is within system range of 110 kPa (16 psi).
Fluctuation of gauge pointer indicates compression or
combustion leakage into cooling system.
Because the vehicle is equipped with a catalytic
converter,do notremove spark plug cables or short
out cylinders to isolate compression leak.
If the needle on dial of pressure tester does not
fluctuate, race engine a few times to check for an
abnormal amount of coolant or steam. This would be
emitting from exhaust pipe. Coolant or steam from
exhaust pipe may indicate a faulty cylinder head gas-
ket, cracked engine cylinder block or cylinder head.
A convenient check for exhaust gas leakage into
cooling system is provided by a commercially avail-
able Block Leak Check tool. Follow manufacturers
instructions when using this product.
COMBUSTION LEAKAGE TEST - WITHOUT
PRESSURE TESTER
DO NOT WASTE reusable coolant. If solution is
clean, drain coolant into a clean container for reuse.
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE CYLINDER BLOCK
DRAIN PLUGS OR LOOSEN RADIATOR DRAIN-
COCK WITH SYSTEM HOT AND UNDER PRESSURE.
SERIOUS BURNS FROM COOLANT CAN OCCUR.
Drain sufficient coolant to allow thermostat
removal. (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/ENGINE
COOLANT THERMOSTAT - REMOVAL). Remove
Fig. 6 Pressure Testing Cooling SystemÐTypical
1 - TYPICAL COOLING SYSTEM PRESSURE TESTER
WJCOOLING 7 - 11
COOLING (Continued)

(5) Install electrical connector to coolant tempera-
ture sensor.
(6) Be sure that the radiator draincock is tightly
closed. Fill the cooling system to the correct levelwith the required coolant mixture (Refer to 7 -
COOLING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(7) Start and warm the engine. Check for leaks.
INSTALLATIONÐ4.7L ENGINE
(1) Clean mating areas of timing chain cover and
thermostat housing.
(2) Install thermostat (spring side down) into
recessed machined groove on timing chain cover (Fig.
25).
(3) Position thermostat housing on timing chain
cover.
(4) Install two housing-to-timing chain cover bolts.
Tighten bolts to 13 N´m (115 in. lbs.) torque.
CAUTION: Housing must be tightened evenly and
thermostat must be centered into recessed groove
in timimg chain cover. If not, it may result in a
cracked housing, damaged timing chain cover
threads or coolant leaks.
(5) Install lower radiator hose on thermostat hous-
ing.
(6) Install splash shield.
(7) Lower vehicle.
(8) Fill cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(9) Connect negative battery cable to battery.
(10) Start and warm the engine. Check for leaks.
Fig. 25 Thermostat and Thermostat Housing
1 - THERMOSTAT HOUSING
2 - THERMOSTAT LOCATION3 - THERMOSTAT AND GASKET
4 - TIMING CHAIN COVER
Fig. 26 Thermostat Recess
1 - GROOVE
WJENGINE 7 - 39
ENGINE COOLANT THERMOSTAT (Continued)

WARNING: DO NOT LOOSEN THE RADIATOR
DRAINCOCK WITH THE SYSTEM HOT AND UNDER
PRESSURE. SERIOUS BURNS FROM THE COOL-
ANT CAN OCCUR.
(1) Drain sufficient coolant from the radiator to
decrease the level below the heater hose inlet. On
4.7L engines this requires complete draining.
(2) Remove the heater hose.
(3) Inspect the inlet for metal casting flash or
other restrictions.
NOTE: On 4.0L engines remove the pump from the
engine before removing restriction to prevent con-
tamination of the coolant with debris. . On 4.7L
engine remove the fitting from the timing chain
cover, If the restriction is in the timing chain cover,
remove the timing chain cover.
REMOVAL
The water pump on 4.7L engines is bolted directly
to the engine timing chain case/cover.
A gasket is used as a seal between the water pump
and timing chain case/cover.
The water pump can be removed without discharg-
ing the air conditioning system (if equipped).
(1) Disconnect negative battery cable from battery.
(2) Drain cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE). Do not waste reusable
coolant. If solution is clean, drain coolant into a clean
container for reuse.
WARNING: CONSTANT TENSION HOSE CLAMPS
ARE USED ON MOST COOLING SYSTEM HOSES.
WHEN REMOVING OR INSTALLING, USE ONLY
TOOLS DESIGNED FOR SERVICING THIS TYPE OF
CLAMP, SUCH AS SPECIAL CLAMP TOOL (NUMBER
6094). SNAP-ON CLAMP TOOL (NUMBER HPC-20)
MAY BE USED FOR LARGER CLAMPS. ALWAYS
WEAR SAFETY GLASSES WHEN SERVICING CON-
STANT TENSION CLAMPS.
CAUTION: A number or letter is stamped into the
tongue of constant tension clamps. If replacement
is necessary, use only an original equipment clamp
with matching number or letter.
(3) Remove accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
REMOVAL).
(4) Remove lower radiator hose clamp and remove
lower hose at water pump.
(5) Remove seven water pump mounting bolts and
one stud bolt.CAUTION: Do not pry water pump at timing chain
case/cover. The machined surfaces may be dam-
aged resulting in leaks.
(6) Remove water pump and gasket. Discard gas-
ket.
CLEANING
Clean the gasket mating surface. Use caution not
to damage the gasket sealing surface.
INSPECTION
Inspect the water pump assembly for cracks in the
housing, Water leaks from shaft seal, Loose or rough
turning bearing or Impeller rubbing either the pump
body or timing chain case/cover.
INSTALLATION
(1) Clean gasket mating surfaces.
(2) Using a new gasket, position water pump and
install mounting bolts as shown. (Fig. 44). Tighten
water pump mounting bolts to 54 N´m (40 ft. lbs.)
torque.
(3) Spin water pump to be sure that pump impel-
ler does not rub against timing chain case/cover.
(4) Connect radiator lower hose to water pump.
(5) Install accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 - COOL-
ING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS - INSTAL-
LATION).
Fig. 44 Water Pump Installation
1 - WATER PUMP
2 - TIMING CHAIN COVER
WJENGINE 7 - 49
WATER PUMP - 4.7L (Continued)

CLEANING
Clean the gasket mating surface. Use caution not
to damage the gasket sealing surface.
INSPECTION
Inspect the water pump assembly for cracks in the
housing, Water leaks from shaft seal, Loose or rough
turning bearing or Impeller rubbing either the pump
body or timing chain case/cover.
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: If the water pump is replaced because of
mechanical damage, the fan blades and viscous fan
drive should also be inspected. These components
could have been damaged due to excessive vibra-
tion.
(1) If pump is being replaced, install the heater
hose fitting to the pump. Use a sealant on the fitting
such as MopartThread Sealant With Teflon. Refer to
the directions on the package.
(2) Clean the gasket mating surfaces. If the origi-
nal pump is used, remove any deposits or other for-
eign material. Inspect the cylinder block and water
pump mating surfaces for erosion or damage from
cavitation.
(3) Install the gasket and water pump. The sili-
cone bead on the gasket should be facing the water
pump. Also, the gasket is installed dry. Tighten
mounting bolts to 30 N´m (22 ft. lbs.) torque. Rotate
the shaft by hand to be sure it turns freely.
(4) Connect the radiator and heater hoses to the
water pump.
(5) Position water pump pulley to water pump
hub. Tighten bolts 28 N´m (250 in. lbs.).
Install the idler pulley. Tighten the bolt 47 N´m (35
ft. lbs.).
Fig. 47 Hose Clamp Tool - Typical
1 - HOSE CLAMP TOOL 6094
2 - HOSE CLAMP
Fig. 48 Clamp - Typical
1 - TYPICAL CONSTANT TENSION HOSE CLAMP
2 - CLAMP NUMBER/LETTER LOCATION
3 - TYPICAL HOSE
Fig. 49 Water Pump Remove/Install - Typical
1 - HEATER HOSE FITTING
2 - PUMP GASKET
3 - WATER PUMP
4 - LONG BOLT
5 - BOLTS (4) SHORT
7 - 52 ENGINEWJ
WATER PUMP - 4.0L (Continued)

CAUTION: When installing the serpentine engine
accessory drive belt, the belt MUST be routed cor-
rectly. If not, the engine may overheat due to the
water pump rotating in the wrong direction. Refer to
the Belt Removal and Installtion in this group for
appropriate belt routing. You may also refer to the
Belt Routing Label in the vehicle engine compart-
ment.
Install accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 - COOLING/
ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS - INSTALLA-
TION).
(6) Install fan blade and viscous fan drive onto
water pump.
(7) Fill cooling system with coolant and check for
leaks. (Refer to 7 - COOLING - STANDARD PROCE-
DURE).
(8) Connect battery cable to battery.
(9) Start and warm the engine. Check for leaks.
RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP
DESCRIPTION
All radiators are equipped with a pressure cap
(Fig. 50). This cap releases pressure at some point
within a range of 124-to-145 kPa (18-to-21 psi). The
pressure relief point (in pounds) is engraved on top of
the cap
The cooling system will operate at pressures
slightly above atmospheric pressure. This results in a
higher coolant boiling point allowing increased radi-
ator cooling capacity. The cap contains a spring-
loaded pressure relief valve. This valve opens when
system pressure reaches the release range of 124-to-
145 kPa (18-to-21 psi).
A rubber gasket seals the radiator filler neck. This is
done to maintain vacuum during coolant cool-down and
to prevent leakage when system is under pressure.
OPERATION
A vent valve in the center of the cap will remain
shut as long as the cooling system is pressurized. As
the coolant cools, it contracts and creates a vacuum
in cooling system. This causes the vacuum valve to
open and coolant in reserve/overflow tank to be
drawn through connecting hose into radiator. If the
vacuum valve is stuck shut, or overflow hose is
kinked, radiator hoses will collapse on cool-down.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐRADIATOR
PRESSURE CAP
Remove cap from radiator. Be sure that sealing
surfaces are clean. Moisten rubber gasket with water
and install the cap on pressure tester (tool 7700 or
an equivalent) (Fig. 51).Operate the tester pump and observe the gauge
pointer at its highest point. The cap release pressure
should be 124 to 145 kPa (18 to 21 psi). The cap is
satisfactory when the pressure holds steady. It is also
good if it holds pressure within the 124 to 145 kPa
(18 to 21 psi) range for 30 seconds or more. If the
pointer drops quickly, replace the cap.
CAUTION: Radiator pressure testing tools are very
sensitive to small air leaks, which will not cause
cooling system problems. A pressure cap that does
not have a history of coolant loss should not be
replaced just because it leaks slowly when tested
with this tool. Add water to tool. Turn tool upside
down and recheck pressure cap to confirm that cap
needs replacement.CLEANING
Clean the radiator pressure cap using a mild soap
and water only.
Fig. 50 Radiator Pressure Cap - Typical
1 - FILLER NECK SEAL
2 - VACUUM VENT VALVE
3 - PRESSURE RATING
4 - PRESSURE VALVE
WJENGINE 7 - 53
WATER PUMP - 4.0L (Continued)

INSPECTION
Visually inspect the pressure valve gasket on the
cap. Replace cap if the gasket is swollen, torn or
worn. Inspect the area around radiator filler neck for
white deposits that indicate a leaking cap.
WATER PUMP INLET TUBE
REMOVAL
WARNING: CONSTANT TENSION HOSE CLAMPS
ARE USED ON MOST COOLING SYSTEM HOSES.
WHEN REMOVING OR INSTALLING, USE ONLY
TOOLS DESIGNED FOR SERVICING THIS TYPE OF
CLAMP, SUCH AS SPECIAL CLAMP TOOL (NUMBER
6094) (Fig. 52). SNAP-ON CLAMP TOOL (NUMBER
HPC-20) MAY BE USED FOR LARGER CLAMPS.
ALWAYS WEAR SAFETY GLASSES WHEN SERVIC-
ING CONSTANT TENSION CLAMPS.
CAUTION: A number or letter is stamped into the
tongue of constant tension clamps (Fig. 53). If
replacement is necessary, use only an original
equipment clamp with matching number or letter.
(1) Partially drain cooling system .
(2) Do not waste reusable coolant. If solution is
clean, drain coolant into a clean container for reuse.(3) Loosen both bypass hose clamps (Fig. 52) and
position to center of hose. Remove hose from vehicle.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position bypass hose clamps (Fig. 52) to center
of hose.
(2) Install bypass hose to engine.
(3) Secure both hose clamps (Fig. 52).
(4) Refill cooling system .
(5) Start and warm the engine. Check for leaks.
Fig. 51 Pressure Testing Radiator Pressure
CapÐTypical
1 - PRESSURE CAP
2 - TYPICAL COOLING SYSTEM PRESSURE TESTER
Fig. 52 Hose Clamp ToolÐTypical
1 - HOSE CLAMP TOOL 6094
2 - HOSE CLAMP
Fig. 53 Clamp Number/Letter Location
1 - TYPICAL CONSTANT TENSION HOSE CLAMP
2 - CLAMP NUMBER/LETTER LOCATION
3 - TYPICAL HOSE
7 - 54 ENGINEWJ
RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP (Continued)