Common causes of brake drag are:
²Parking brake partially applied.
²Loose/worn wheel bearing.
²Seized caliper.
²Caliper binding.
²Loose caliper mounting.
²Mis-assembled components.
²Damaged brake lines.
If brake drag occurs at the front, rear or all
wheels, the problem may be related to a blocked mas-
ter cylinder return port, faulty power booster (binds-
does not release) or the ABS system.
BRAKE FADE
Brake fade is usually a product of overheating
caused by brake drag. However, brake overheating
and resulting fade can also be caused by riding the
brake pedal, making repeated high deceleration stops
in a short time span, or constant braking on steep
mountain roads. Refer to the Brake Drag information
in this section for causes.
BRAKE PULL
Front brake pull condition could result from:
²Contaminated lining in one caliper
²Seized caliper piston
²Binding caliper
²Loose caliper
²Rusty caliper slide surfaces
²Improper brake shoes
²Damaged rotor
²Wheel alignment.
²Tire pressure.
A worn, damaged wheel bearing or suspension compo-
nent are further causes of pull. A damaged front tire
(bruised, ply separation) can also cause pull.
A common and frequently misdiagnosed pull condi-
tion is where direction of pull changes after a few
stops. The cause is a combination of brake drag fol-
lowed by fade at one of the brake units.
As the dragging brake overheats, efficiency is so
reduced that fade occurs. Since the opposite brake
unit is still functioning normally, its braking effect is
magnified. This causes pull to switch direction in
favor of the normally functioning brake unit.
An additional point when diagnosing a change in
pull condition concerns brake cool down. Remember
that pull will return to the original direction, if the
dragging brake unit is allowed to cool down (and is
not seriously damaged).
REAR BRAKE DRAG OR PULL
Rear drag or pull may be caused by improperly
adjusted park brake shoes or seized parking brake
cables, contaminated lining, bent or binding shoes or
improperly assembled components. This is particu-
larly true when only one rear wheel is involved.However, when both rear wheels are affected, the
master cylinder or ABS system could be at fault.
BRAKES DO NOT HOLD AFTER DRIVING THROUGH DEEP
WATER PUDDLES
This condition is generally caused by water soaked
lining. If the lining is only wet, it can be dried by
driving with the brakes very lightly applied for a
mile or two. However, if the lining is both soaked and
dirt contaminated, cleaning and or replacement will
be necessary.
BRAKE LINING CONTAMINATION
Brake lining contamination is mostly a product of
leaking calipers or worn seals, driving through deep
water puddles, or lining that has become covered with
grease and grit during repair. Contaminated lining
should be replaced to avoid further brake problems.
WHEEL AND TIRE PROBLEMS
Some conditions attributed to brake components
may actually be caused by a wheel or tire problem.
A damaged wheel can cause shudder, vibration and
pull. A worn or damaged tire can also cause pull.
NOTE: Propshaft angle can also cause vibration/
shudder.
Severely worn tires with very little tread left can
produce a grab-like condition as the tire loses and
recovers traction. Flat-spotted tires can cause vibra-
tion and generate shudder during brake operation.
Tire damage such as a severe bruise, cut, ply separa-
tion, low air pressure can cause pull and vibration.
BRAKE NOISES
Some brake noise is common on some disc brakes
during the first few stops after a vehicle has been
parked overnight or stored. This is primarily due to
the formation of trace corrosion (light rust) on metal
surfaces. This light corrosion is typically cleared from
the metal surfaces after a few brake applications
causing the noise to subside.
BRAKE SQUEAK/SQUEAL
Brake squeak or squeal may be due to linings that
are wet or contaminated with brake fluid, grease, or oil.
Glazed linings and rotors with hard spots can also con-
tribute to squeak. Dirt and foreign material embedded
in the brake lining will also cause squeak/squeal.
A very loud squeak or squeal is frequently a sign of
severely worn brake lining. If the lining has worn
through to the brake shoes in spots, metal-to-metal
contact occurs. If the condition is allowed to continue,
rotors may become so scored that replacement is nec-
essary.
5 - 4 BRAKES - BASEWJ
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)
INSTALLATION
(1) Insert the sensor through the backing plate
(Fig. 9).
(2) Apply Mopar Lock N' Seal or Loctite 242tto
the original sensor bolt. Use a new bolt if the original
is worn or damaged.
(3) Tighten the sensor bolt to 12-14 N´m (106-124
in. lbs.).
(4) Secure the sensor wire in the brackets and the
retainers on the rear brake lines. Verify that the sen-
sor wire is secure and clear of the rotating compo-
nents.
(5) Route the sensor wires to the rear seat area.
(6) Feed the sensor wires the through floorpan
access hole and seat the sensor grommets into the
floorpan.
(7) Remove the support and lower the vehicle.(8) Fold the rear seat and carpet forward for
access to the sensor wires and connectors.
(9) Connect the sensor wires to the harness con-
nectors.
(10) Reposition the carpet and fold the rear seat
down.
HCU (HYDRAULIC CONTROL
UNIT)
DESCRIPTION
The HCU consists of a valve body, pump motor,
and wire harness.
OPERATION
Accumulators in the valve body store extra fluid
released to the system for ABS mode operation. The
pump is used to clear the accumulator of brake fluid
and is operated by a DC type motor. The motor is
controlled by the CAB.
The valves modulate brake pressure during
antilock braking and are controlled by the CAB.
The HCU provides three channel pressure control
to the front and rear brakes. One channel controls
the rear wheel brakes in tandem. The two remaining
channels control the front wheel brakes individually.
During antilock braking, the solenoid valves are
opened and closed as needed. The valves are not
static. They are cycled rapidly and continuously to
modulate pressure and control wheel slip and decel-
eration.
During normal braking, the HCU solenoid valves
and pump are not activated. The master cylinder and
power booster operate the same as a vehicle without
an ABS brake system.
During antilock braking, solenoid valve pressure
modulation occurs in three stages, pressure increase,
pressure hold, and pressure decrease. The valves are
all contained in the valve body portion of the HCU.
PRESSURE DECREASE
The outlet valve is opened and the inlet valve is
closed during the pressure decrease cycle.
A pressure decrease cycle is initiated when speed
sensor signals indicate high wheel slip at one or
more wheels. At this point, the CAB closes the inlet
then opens the outlet valve, which also opens the
return circuit to the accumulators. Fluid pressure is
allowed to bleed off (decrease) as needed to prevent
wheel lock.
Once the period of high wheel slip has ended, the
CAB closes the outlet valve and begins a pressure
increase or hold cycle as needed.
Fig. 8 Sensor Mounting Bolt
1 - WHEEL SPEED SENSOR
2 - MOUNTING BOLT
Fig. 9 Wheel Speed Sensor
1 - WHEEL SPEED SENSOR
2 - BACKING PLATE
5 - 46 BRAKES - ABSWJ
REAR WHEEL SPEED SENSOR (Continued)
NOTE: When ever the high pressure line fittings are
removed from the hydraulic fan drive the o-rings
located on the fittings must be replaced.
(7) Lubricate the o-rings on the fittings with power
steering fluid then connect inlet and outlet high pres-
sure lines to fan drive (Fig. 9). Tighten inlet line to
49 N´m (36 ft. lbs.) tighten outlet line to 29 N´m (21.5
ft. lbs.).
(8) Connect low pressure return hose to fan drive
(Fig. 9).
(9) Lower vehicle.
(10) Install radiator upper hose.
(11) Connect electrical connector for hydraulic fan
control solenoid.
(12) Tighten fan shroud upper mounting bolts to 6
N´m (50 in. lbs.).
(13) Refill cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
CAUTION: Do not run engine with power steering
fluid below the full mark in the reservoir. Sever
damage to the hydraulic cooling fan or the engine
can occur.(14) Refill power steering fluid reservoir and bleed
air from steering system (Refer to 19 - STEERING/
PUMP - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(15) Run engine and check for leaks.
RADIATOR FAN - 4.0L
DESCRIPTION
The radiator cooling fan used on the 4.0L engine is
an hybrid fan design. The hybrid fan system consist
of a low speed viscous driven mechanical fan and a
electrical fan (Fig. 10).
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect negative battery cable from battery.
(2) The thermal viscous fan drive/fan blade assem-
bly is attached (threaded) to water pump hub shaft.
Remove fan blade/viscous fan drive assembly from
water pump by turning mounting nut counterclock-
wise as viewed from front (Fig. 11). Threads on vis-
cous fan drive areRIGHT HAND.
(3) Do not attempt to remove fan/viscous fan drive
assembly from vehicle at this time.
(4) Do not unbolt fan blade assembly from viscous
fan drive at this time.
(5) Remove fan shroud-to-upper crossmember nuts.
(6) Remove fan shroud and fan blade/viscous fan
drive assembly as a complete unit from vehicle.
Fig. 9 HYDRAULIC LINES/HOSES AND ELECTRICAL
CONNECTOR
1 - LOW PRESSURE RETURN HOSE
2 - HIGH PRESSURE LINE (OUTLET)
3 - HIGH PRESSURE LINE (INLET)
4 - HYDRAULIC FAN DRIVEFig. 10 Radiator Cooling Fan
1 - RADIATOR
2 - ELECTRIC COOLING FAN CONNECTOR
3 - FAN SHROUD
4 - ELECTRIC COOLING FAN
WJENGINE 7 - 31
RADIATOR FAN - 4.7L (Continued)
(7) After removing fan blade/viscous fan drive
assembly,do notplace viscous fan drive in horizon-
tal position. If stored horizontally, silicone fluid in
the viscous fan drive could drain into its bearing
assembly and contaminate lubricant.
CAUTION: Do not remove water pump pulley-to-wa-
ter pump bolts. This pulley is under belt tension.
(8) Remove four bolts securing fan blade assembly
to viscous fan drive .
CLEANING
Clean the fan blades using a mild soap and water.
Do not use an abrasive to clean the blades.
INSPECTION
WARNING: DO NOT ATTEMPT TO BEND OR
STRAIGHTEN FAN BLADES IF FAN IS NOT WITHIN
SPECIFICATIONS.
CAUTION: If fan blade assembly is replaced
because of mechanical damage, water pump and
viscous fan drive should also be inspected. These
components could have been damaged due to
excessive vibration.
(1) Remove fan blade assembly from viscous fan
drive unit (four bolts).(2) Lay fan on a flat surface with leading edge fac-
ing down. With tip of blade touching flat surface,
replace fan if clearance between opposite blade and
surface is greater than 2.0 mm (.090 inch). Rocking
motion of opposite blades should not exceed 2.0 mm
(.090 inch). Test all blades in this manner.
(3) Inspect fan assembly for cracks, bends, loose
rivets or broken welds. Replace fan if any damage is
found.
INSTALLATION
(1) Assemble fan blade to viscous fan drive.
Tighten mounting bolts to 27 N´m (20 ft. lbs.) torque.
(2) Thread the fan and fan drive onto the water
pump pulley.
CAUTION: When installing a serpentine accessory
drive belt, the belt MUST be routed correctly. If not,
the engine may overheat due to the water pump
rotating in the wrong direction. (Refer to 7 - COOL-
ING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS - REMOVAL)
for correct belt routing.
ENGINE BLOCK HEATER
DESCRIPTION
DESCRIPTIONÐ4.7L ENGINE
WARNING: DO NOT OPERATE ENGINE UNLESS
BLOCK HEATER CORD HAS BEEN DISCONNECTED
FROM POWER SOURCE AND SECURED IN PLACE.
THE POWER CORD MUST BE SECURED IN ITS
RETAINING CLIPS AND ROUTED AWAY FROM
EXHAUST MANIFOLDS AND MOVING PARTS.
An optional engine block heater (Fig. 12) is avail-
able with all models. The heater is equipped with a
power cord. The cord is attached to an engine com-
partment component with tie-straps. The heater
warms the engine providing easier engine starting
and faster warm-up in low temperatures. The heater
is mounted in a core hole of the engine cylinder block
in place of a freeze plug with the heating element
immersed in engine coolant.
DESCRIPTIONÐ4.0L ENGINE
WARNING: DO NOT OPERATE ENGINE UNLESS
BLOCK HEATER CORD HAS BEEN DISCONNECTED
FROM POWER SOURCE AND SECURED IN PLACE.
THE POWER CORD MUST BE SECURED IN ITS
RETAINING CLIPS AND ROUTED AWAY FROM
EXHAUST MANIFOLDS AND MOVING PARTS.
Fig. 11 Fan and Viscous Fan Drive
1 - FAN AND FAN DRIVE
2 - WATER PUMP PULLEY
7 - 32 ENGINEWJ
RADIATOR FAN - 4.0L (Continued)
An optional engine block heater (Fig. 13) is avail-
able with all models. The heater is equipped with a
power cord. The cord is attached to an engine com-
partment component with tie-straps. The heater
warms the engine providing easier engine starting
and faster warm-up in low temperatures. The heater
is mounted in a core hole of the engine cylinder block
in place of a freeze plug with the heating element
immersed in engine coolant.
OPERATION
Connecting the power cord to a grounded 110-120
volt AC electrical outlet with a grounded, three wire
extension cord activates the heating element warm-
ing the engine coolant.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐENGINE BLOCK
HEATER
If the unit does not operate (Fig. 14) (Fig. 15), pos-
sible causes can be either the power cord or the
heater element. Test the power cord for continuity
with a 110-volt voltmeter or 110-volt test light. Test
heater element continuity with an ohmmeter or a
12-volt test light.
CAUTION: To prevent damage, the power cord must
be secured in it's retainer clips and away from any
components that may cause abrasion or damage,
such as linkages, exhaust components, etc.
REMOVAL
REMOVALÐ4.7L ENGINE
(1) Disconnect negative battery cable from battery.
(2) Drain coolant from radiator (Refer to 7 -
COOLING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
Fig. 12 Engine Block HeaterÐ4.7L
1 - ENGINE BLOCK HEATER
Fig. 13 Block Heater
1 - ENGINE BLOCK HEATER
Fig. 14 Engine Block Heater 4.0L Engine
1 - ENGINE BLOCK HEATER
WJENGINE 7 - 33
ENGINE BLOCK HEATER (Continued)
(3) Raise vehicle.
(4) Remove engine cylinder block drain plug(s)
located on the sides of cylinder block above the oil
pan rail (Fig. 16).
(5) Remove power cord from block heater.(6) Loosen screw at center of block heater. Remove
heater assembly (Fig. 17).
REMOVALÐ4.0L ENGINE
(1) Disconnect negative battery cable from battery.
(2) Drain coolant from radiator (Refer to 7 -
COOLING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(3) Raise vehicle.
(4) Remove engine cylinder block drain plug(s)
located on the sides of cylinder block above the oil
pan rail (Fig. 18).
(5) Remove power cord from block heater.
(6) Loosen screw at center of block heater. Remove
heater assembly (Fig. 19).
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATIONÐ4.7L ENGINE
(1) Thoroughly clean cylinder block core hole and
block heater seat.
(2) Insert block heater assembly with element loop
pointing at twelve o'clock (Fig. 17).
(3) With block heater fully seated, tighten center
screw to 2 N´m (17 in. lbs.) torque.
(4) Refill cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(5) Start and warm the engine. Check for leaks.
INSTALLATIONÐ4.0L ENGINE
(1) Thoroughly clean cylinder block core hole and
block heater seat.
Fig. 15 Engine Block Heater 4.7L Engine
1 - ENGINE BLOCK HEATER
Fig. 16 Drain Plug - 4.7L Engine
1 - CYLINDER BLOCK DRAIN PLUG
2 - EXHAUST MANIFOLD AND HEAT SHIELD
Fig. 17 Engine Block Heater - 4.7L
1 - ENGINE BLOCK HEATER
7 - 34 ENGINEWJ
ENGINE BLOCK HEATER (Continued)
(2) Insert block heater assembly with element loop
pointing at twelve o'clock (Fig. 19).
(3) With block heater fully seated, tighten center
screw to 2 N´m (17 in. lbs.) torque.
(4) Refill cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(5) Start and warm the engine. Check for leaks.
ENGINE COOLANT TEMP
SENSOR
DESCRIPTION
The Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor is
used to sense engine coolant temperature. The sensor
protrudes into an engine water jacket.
The ECT sensor is a two-wire Negative Thermal
Coefficient (NTC) sensor. Meaning, as engine coolant
temperature increases, resistance (voltage) in the
sensor decreases. As temperature decreases, resis-
tance (voltage) in the sensor increases.
OPERATION
At key-on, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
sends out a regulated 5 volt signal to the ECT sensor.
The PCM then monitors the signal as it passes
through the ECT sensor to the sensor ground (sensor
return).
When the engine is cold, the PCM will operate in
Open Loop cycle. It will demand slightly richer air-
fuel mixtures and higher idle speeds. This is done
until normal operating temperatures are reached.
The PCM uses inputs from the ECT sensor for the
following calculations:
²for engine coolant temperature gauge operation
through CCD or PCI (J1850) communications
²Injector pulse-width
²Spark-advance curves
²ASD relay shut-down times
²Idle Air Control (IAC) motor key-on steps
²Pulse-width prime-shot during cranking
²O2 sensor closed loop times
²Purge solenoid on/off times
²EGR solenoid on/off times (if equipped)
²Leak Detection Pump operation (if equipped)
²Radiator fan relay on/off times (if equipped)
²Target idle speed
REMOVAL
REMOVALÐ4.0L ENGINE
WARNING: HOT, PRESSURIZED COOLANT CAN
CAUSE INJURY BY SCALDING. COOLING SYSTEM
MUST BE PARTIALLY DRAINED BEFORE REMOV-
ING THE ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE (ECT)
SENSOR. REFER TO GROUP 7, COOLING.
(1) Partially drain cooling system. (Refer to 7 -
COOLING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
Fig. 18 Drain Plug
1 - COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR
2 - BLOCK DRAIN PLUG
Fig. 19 Engine Block Heater
1 - ENGINE BLOCK HEATER
WJENGINE 7 - 35
ENGINE BLOCK HEATER (Continued)
the radiator to flush the radiator and/or A/C con-
denser of debris.
INSPECTION
The radiator cooling fins should be checked for
damage or deterioration. Inspect cooling fins to make
sure they are not bent or crushed, these areas result
in reduced heat exchange causing the cooling system
to operate at higher temperatures. Inspect the plastic
end tanks for cracks, damage or leaks.
Inspect the radiator neck for damage or distortion.
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: Before installing the radiator or A/C con-
denser, be sure the radiator-to-body and radiator-to-
A/C condenser rubber air seals (Fig. 39) are
properly fastened to their original positions. These
are used at the top, bottom and sides of the radia-
tor and A/C condenser. To prevent overheating,
these seals must be installed to their original posi-
tions.
(1) Equipped with air conditioning: Gently lower
the radiator and fan shroud into the vehicle. Guide
the two radiator alignment dowels through the holes
in the rubber air seals first and then through the A/C
support brackets (Fig. 40). Continue to guide thealignment dowels into the rubber grommets located
in lower radiator crossmember. The holes in the
L-shaped brackets (located on bottom of A/C con-
denser) must be positioned between bottom of rubber
air seals and top of rubber grommets.
(2) Connect the radiator upper and lower hoses
and hose clamps to radiator.
CAUTION: The tangs on the hose clamps must be
positioned straight down.
(3) Install coolant reserve/overflow tank hose at
radiator.
(4) Connect both transmission cooler lines at the
radiator.
(5) Install both radiator mounting bolts.
(6) Install air inlet duct at grill.
(7) Attach electric connector for hydraulic fan con-
trol solenoid.
(8) Install the grill (Refer to 23 - BODY/EXTERI-
OR/GRILLE - INSTALLATION).
(9) Connect the two high pressure lines to the
hydraulic fan drive. Tighten
1¤2in. pressure line fit-
ting to 49 N´m (36 ft. lbs.). and the 3/8 in. pressure
line fitting to 29 N´m (21.5 ft. lbs.).
(10) Connect the low pressure hose to the hydrau-
lic fan drive. Position the spring clamp.
(11) Connect the power steering filter hoses to the
filter. Install new hose clamps.
(12) Rotate the fan blades (by hand) and check for
interference at fan shroud.
(13) Refill cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(14) Refill the power steering reservoir and bleed
air from system (Refer to 19 - STEERING/PUMP -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(15) Connect battery cable at battery.
(16) Start and warm engine. Check for leaks.
RADIATOR - 4.0L
DESCRIPTION
All vehicles are equipped with a cross flow type
radiator with plastic side tanks (Fig. 36).
Plastic tanks, while stronger than brass, are sub-
ject to damage by impact, such as from tools or
wrenches. Handle radiator with care.
REMOVAL
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE THE CYLINDER
BLOCK DRAIN PLUGS OR LOOSEN THE RADIATOR
DRAINCOCK WITH THE SYSTEM HOT AND UNDER
PRESSURE. SERIOUS BURNS FROM COOLANT
CAN OCCUR. REFER TO COOLING SYSTEM DRAIN-
ING.
Fig. 35 Radiator Alignment Dowels - Typical
1 - RADIATOR
2 - ALIGNMENT DOWEL
3 - RADIATOR LOWER ISOLATOR
4 - RADIATOR LOWER CROSSMEMBER
7 - 44 ENGINEWJ
RADIATOR - 4.7L (Continued)