2002 DODGE RAM flat tire

INTRODUCTION
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
VEHICLE SAFETY CERTIFICATION LABEL
DESCRIPTION..........................1
VEHICLE IDENTIFICATION NUMBER
DESCRIPTION..........................1
VEHICLE EMISSION CONTROL INFORMATION
(VECI)
DESCRIPTION..........................3
EQUIPMENT IDENTIFICATION PLATE
DESCRIPTION..........................3
BODY CODE PLATE
DESCRIPTION..........................4
INTERNATIONAL VEHICLE CONTROL &
DISPLAY SYMBOLS
DESCRIPTION - INTERNATIONAL SYMBOLS . . . 5FASTENER IDENTIFICATION
DESCRIPTION..........................6
FASTENER USAGE
DESCRIPTION..........................9
THREADED HOLE REPAIR
DESCRIPTION..........................9
METRIC SYSTEM
DESCRIPTION..........................9
TORQUE REFERENCES
DESCRIPTION.........................11
VEHICLE SAFETY
CERTIFICATION LABEL
DESCRIPTION
A vehicle safety certification label (Fig. 1) is
attached to every Chrysler Corporation vehicle. The
label certifies that the vehicle conforms to all appli-
cable Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standards. The
label also lists:
²Month and year of vehicle manufacture.
²Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR). The gross
front and rear axle weight ratings (GAWR's) are
based on a minimum rim size and maximum cold tire
inflation pressure.
²Vehicle Identification Number (VIN).
²Type of vehicle.
²Type of rear wheels.
²Bar code.
²Month, Day and Hour (MDH) of final assembly.
²Paint and Trim codes.
²Country of origin.
The label is located on the driver-side door shut-
face.
VEHICLE IDENTIFICATION
NUMBER
DESCRIPTION
VIN CODING/LOCATIONS
The Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) plate is
located on the lower windshield fence near the left
A-pillar (Fig. 2). The VIN contains 17 characters that
provide data concerning the vehicle. Refer to the VIN
decoding chart to determine the identification of a
vehicle.
The Vehicle Identification Number is also
imprinted on the:
²Body Code Plate.
²Equipment Identification Plate.
²Vehicle Safety Certification Label.
²Frame rail.
Fig. 1 Vehicle Safety Certification Label
BR/BEINTRODUCTION 1

(4) Apply a liberal quantity of anti-seize compound
to the splines of the front drive shaft.
(5) Insert the two rearmost, top and bottom rotor
hub bolts in the steering knuckle. Insert the bolts
through the back side of the knuckle so they extend
out the front face as shown.
(6) Position the hub spacer (Fig. 9) and brake
shield (Fig. 10) on bolts just installed in knuckle.
NOTE: If the vehicle is equipped with a wheel speed
sensor the brake shield must be positioned on the
hub bearing (Fig. 11).
(7) Align the rotor hub with the drive shaft and
start the shaft into the rotor hub splines.
NOTE: Position wheel speed sensor wire at the top
of the knuckle if equipped.
(8) Align the bolt holes in the hub bearing flange
with the bolts installed in the knuckle. Then thread
the bolts into the bearing flange far enough to hold
the assembly in place.
(9) Install the remaining bolts. Tighten the hub/
bearing bolts to 166 N´m (122 ft. labs.
(10) Install the washer and hub nut and tighten to
245 N´m (180 ft. lbs.).
(11) Install a new cotter pin in the hub nut.
Tighten the nut as needed to align the cotter pin hole
in the shaft with the opening in nut.
(12) Install the brake caliper, (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/DISC
BRAKE CALIPERS - INSTALLATION).
(13) Install the sensor wire to the steering knuckle
and frame and if equipped. Connect the wheel speed
sensor wire under the hood.(14) Install the wheel and tire assemblies, (Refer
to 22 - TIRES/WHEELS/WHEELS - STANDARD
PROCEDURE).
(15) Remove the support and lower the vehicle.
(16) Apply the brakes several times to seat the
brake shoes and caliper piston. Do not move the vehi-
cle until a firm brake pedal is obtained.
Fig. 9 Hub Spacer
1 - ROTOR HUB BOLTS
2 - HUB SPACER (POSITION FLAT TO REAR)
3 - APPLY ANTI-SEIZE COMPOUND TO SPLINES
Fig. 10 Brake Shield
1 - BRAKE SHIELD
2 - HUB BEARING BOLTS
3 - STEERING KNUCKLE
Fig. 11 Brake Shield With Wheel Speed Sensor
1 - WHEEL SPEED SENSOR
2 - HUB BEARING
3 - SHIELD
2 - 18 FRONT - 4WDBR/BE
HUB / BEARING (Continued)

(15) If the vibration remains unacceptable, apply
the same steps to the front end of the propeller shaft.
(16) Install the wheel and tires. Lower the vehicle.
RUNOUT
(1) Remove dirt, rust, paint and undercoating from
the propeller shaft surface where the dial indicator
will contact the shaft.
(2) The dial indicator must be installed perpendic-
ular to the shaft surface.
(3) Measure runout at the center and ends of the
shaft sufficiently far away from weld areas to ensure
that the effects of the weld process will not enter into
the measurements.
(4) Refer to Runout Specifications chart.
(5) If propeller shaft runout is out of specification,
remove the propeller shaft, index the shaft 180É and
re-install the propeller shaft. Measure shaft runout
again.
(6) If propeller shaft runout is now within specifi-
cations, mark the shaft and yokes for proper orienta-
tion.
(7) If the propeller shaft runout is not within spec-
ifications, verify that the runout of the transmission/
transfer case and axle are within specifications.
Correct as necessary and re-measure propeller shaft
runout.
(8) Replace the propeller shaft if the runout still
exceeds the limits.
RUNOUT SPECIFICATIONS
Front of Shaft 0.020 in. (0.50 mm)
Center of Shaft 0.025 in. (0.63 mm)
Rear of Shaft 0.020 in. (0.50 mm)
note:
Measure front/rear runout approximately 3 inches (76
mm) from the weld seam at each end of the shaft
tube for tube lengths over 30 inches. For tube lengths
under 30 inches, the maximum allowed runout is
0.020 in. (0.50 mm) for the full length of the tube.
STANDARD PROCEDURES
To accurately check driveline alignment, raise and
support the vehicle at the axles as level as possible.
Allow the wheels and propeller shaft to turn.
(1) Remove any external bearing snap rings, if
equipped from universal joint so protractor base sits
flat.
(2) Rotate the shaft until transmission/transfer
case output yoke bearing is facing downward.
NOTE: Always make measurements from front to
rear and from the same side of the vehicle.
Fig. 1 Clamp Screw At Position 1
1 - CLAMP
2 - SCREWDRIVER
Fig. 2 Two Clamp Screws At The Same Position
Fig. 3 Clamp Screws Separated
1 - ó INCH
BR/BEPROPELLER SHAFT 3 - 3
PROPELLER SHAFT (Continued)

CAUTION: Never use gasoline, kerosene, alcohol,
motor oil, transmission fluid, or any fluid containing
mineral oil to clean the system components. These
fluids damage rubber cups and seals. Use only
fresh brake fluid or Mopar brake cleaner to clean or
flush brake system components. These are the only
cleaning materials recommended. If system contam-
ination is suspected, check the fluid for dirt, discol-
oration, or separation into distinct layers. Also
check the reservoir cap seal for distortion. Drain
and flush the system with new brake fluid if con-
tamination is suspected.
CAUTION: Use Mopar brake fluid, or an equivalent
quality fluid meeting SAE/DOT standards J1703 and
DOT 3. Brake fluid must be clean and free of con-
taminants. Use fresh fluid from sealed containers
only to ensure proper antilock component opera-
tion.
CAUTION: Use Mopar multi-mileage or high temper-
ature grease to lubricate caliper slide surfaces,
drum brake pivot pins, and shoe contact points on
the backing plates. Use multi-mileage grease or GE
661 or Dow 111 silicone grease on caliper slide pins
to ensure proper operation.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - BASE BRAKE
SYSTEM
Base brake components consist of the brake shoes,
calipers, wheel cylinders, brake drums, rotors, brake
lines, master cylinder, booster, and parking brake
components.
Brake diagnosis involves determining if the prob-
lem is related to a mechanical, hydraulic, or vacuum
operated component.
The first diagnosis step is the preliminary check.
PRELIMINARY BRAKE CHECK
(1) Check condition of tires and wheels. Damaged
wheels and worn, damaged, or underinflated tires
can cause pull, shudder, vibration, and a condition
similar to grab.
(2) If complaint was based on noise when braking,
check suspension components. Jounce front and rear
of vehicle and listen for noise that might be caused
by loose, worn or damaged suspension or steering
components.
(3) Inspect brake fluid level and condition. Note
that the brake reservoir fluid level will decrease in
proportion to normal lining wear.Also note that
brake fluid tends to darken over time. This is
normal and should not be mistaken for contam-
ination.(a) If fluid level is abnormally low, look for evi-
dence of leaks at calipers, wheel cylinders, brake
lines, and master cylinder.
(b) If fluid appears contaminated, drain out a
sample to examine. System will have to be flushed
if fluid is separated into layers, or contains a sub-
stance other than brake fluid. The system seals
and cups will also have to be replaced after flush-
ing. Use clean brake fluid to flush the system.
(4) Check parking brake operation. Verify free
movement and full release of cables and pedal. Also
note if vehicle was being operated with parking
brake partially applied.
(5) Check brake pedal operation. Verify that pedal
does not bind and has adequate free play. If pedal
lacks free play, check pedal and power booster for
being loose or for bind condition. Do not road test
until condition is corrected.
(6) Check booster vacuum check valve and hose.
(7) If components checked appear OK, road test
the vehicle.
ROAD TESTING
(1) If complaint involved low brake pedal, pump
pedal and note if it comes back up to normal height.
(2) Check brake pedal response with transmission
in Neutral and engine running. Pedal should remain
firm under constant foot pressure.
(3) During road test, make normal and firm brake
stops in 25-40 mph range. Note faulty brake opera-
tion such as low pedal, hard pedal, fade, pedal pulsa-
tion, pull, grab, drag, noise, etc.
(4) Attempt to stop the vehicle with the parking
brake only and note grab, drag, noise, etc.
PEDAL FALLS AWAY
A brake pedal that falls away under steady foot
pressure is generally the result of a system leak. The
leak point could be at a brake line, fitting, hose, or
caliper/wheel cylinder. If leakage is severe, fluid will
be evident at or around the leaking component.
Internal leakage (seal by-pass) in the master cylin-
der caused by worn or damaged piston cups, may
also be the problem cause.
An internal leak in the ABS or RWAL system may
also be the problem with no physical evidence.
LOW PEDAL
If a low pedal is experienced, pump the pedal sev-
eral times. If the pedal comes back up, worn linings,
rotors, drums, or rear brakes out of adjustment are
the most likely causes. The proper course of action is
to inspect and replace all worn component and make
the proper adjustments.
BR/BEBRAKES - BASE 5 - 5
HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL (Continued)

mile or two. However, if the lining is both soaked and
dirt contaminated, cleaning and/or replacement will
be necessary.
BRAKE LINING CONTAMINATION
Brake lining contamination is mostly a product of
leaking calipers or wheel cylinders, worn seals, driv-
ing through deep water puddles, or lining that has
become covered with grease and grit during repair.
Contaminated lining should be replaced to avoid fur-
ther brake problems.
WHEEL AND TIRE PROBLEMS
Some conditions attributed to brake components
may actually be caused by a wheel or tire problem.
A damaged wheel can cause shudder, vibration and
pull. A worn or damaged tire can also cause pull.
Severely worn tires with very little tread left can
produce a grab-like condition as the tire loses and
recovers traction. Flat-spotted tires can cause vibra-
tion and generate shudder during brake operation. A
tire with internal damage such as a severe bruise,
cut, or ply separation can cause pull and vibration.
BRAKE NOISES
Some brake noise is common with rear drum
brakes and on some disc brakes during the first few
stops after a vehicle has been parked overnight or
stored. This is primarily due to the formation of trace
corrosion (light rust) on metal surfaces. This light
corrosion is typically cleared from the metal surfaces
after a few brake applications causing the noise to
subside.
BRAKE SQUEAK/SQUEAL
Brake squeak or squeal may be due to linings that
are wet or contaminated with brake fluid, grease, or
oil. Glazed linings and rotors with hard spots can
also contribute to squeak. Dirt and foreign material
embedded in the brake lining will also cause squeak/
squeal.
A very loud squeak or squeal is frequently a sign of
severely worn brake lining. If the lining has worn
through to the brake shoes in spots, metal-to-metal
contact occurs. If the condition is allowed to continue,
rotors and drums can become so scored that replace-
ment is necessary.
BRAKE CHATTER
Brake chatter is usually caused by loose or worn
components, or glazed/burnt lining. Rotors with hard
spots can also contribute to chatter. Additional causes
of chatter are out-of-tolerance rotors, brake lining not
securely attached to the shoes, loose wheel bearings
and contaminated brake lining.THUMP/CLUNK NOISE
Thumping or clunk noises during braking are fre-
quentlynotcaused by brake components. In many
cases, such noises are caused by loose or damaged
steering, suspension, or engine components. However,
calipers that bind on the slide surfaces can generate
a thump or clunk noise. In addition, worn out,
improperly adjusted, or improperly assembled rear
brake shoes can also produce a thump noise.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - MANUAL BLEEDING
Use Mopar brake fluid, or an equivalent quality
fluid meeting SAE J1703-F and DOT 3 standards
only. Use fresh, clean fluid from a sealed container at
all times.
(1) Remove reservoir filler caps and fill reservoir.
(2) If calipers, or wheel cylinders were overhauled,
open all caliper and wheel cylinder bleed screws.
Then close each bleed screw as fluid starts to drip
from it. Top off master cylinder reservoir once more
before proceeding.
(3) Attach one end of bleed hose to bleed screw
and insert opposite end in glass container partially
filled with brake fluid (Fig. 1). Be sure end of bleed
hose is immersed in fluid.
(4)
Open up bleeder, then have a helper press down
the brake pedal. Once the pedal is down close the
bleeder. Repeat bleeding until fluid stream is clear and
free of bubbles. Then move to the next wheel.
Fig. 1 Bleed Hose Setup
1 - BLEED HOSE
2 - FLUID CONTAINER PARTIALLY FILLED WITH FLUID
BR/BEBRAKES - BASE 5 - 7
HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL (Continued)

(7) Install the drum in hat assembly and verify
that the rotor rotates freely without drag.
(8) Install the wheel/tire assemblies, (Refer to 22 -
TIRES/WHEELS/WHEELS - STANDARD PROCE-
DURE).
(9) Lower the vehicle enough for access to the park
brake foot pedal. Then fully apply the park brakes.
NOTE: Leave park brakes applied until adjustment
is complete.
(10) Raise the vehicle again.
(11) Mark the tensioner rod 6.35 mm (1/4 in.) from
edge of the tensioner (Fig. 56).
(12) Tighten the adjusting nut on the tensioner rod
until the mark is no longer visible.
CAUTION: Do not loosen, or tighten the tensioner
adjusting nut for any reason after completing
adjustment.
(13) Lower the vehicle until the rear wheels are
15-20 cm (6-8 in.) off the shop floor.
(14) Release the park brake foot pedal and verify
that rear wheels rotate freely without drag. Then
lower the vehicle.
RELEASE HANDLE
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect and isolate the battery negative
cable.
(2) Reach under the driver side outboard end of
the instrument panel to access and unsnap the plas-tic retainer clip that secures the park brake release
linkage rod to the park brake mechanism on the left
cowl side inner panel.
(3) Disengage the park brake release linkage rod
end from the park brake mechanism.
(4) Lift the park brake release handle to access
and unsnap the plastic retainer clip that secures the
park brake release linkage rod to the lever on the
back of the park brake release handle.
(5) Lower the park brake release handle and reach
under the driver side outboard end of the instrument
panel to disengage the park brake release linkage
rod end from the lever on the back of the park brake
release handle.
(6) Lift the park brake release handle to access the
handle mounting bracket.
(7) Using a trim stick or another suitable wide
flat-bladed tool, gently pry each of the park brake
release handle mounting bracket latch tabs away
from the retaining notches in the instrument panel
receptacle (Fig. 57) .
(8) With both of the park brake release handle
mounting bracket latches released, slide the handle
and bracket assembly down and out of the instru-
ment panel receptacle.
Fig. 56 Adjustment Mark
1 - TENSIONER CABLE BRACKET
2 - TENSIONER
3 - CABLE CONNECTOR
4 - 6.35mm
(1/4 IN.)
5 - ADJUSTER NUTFig. 57 Park Brake Release Handle Remove/Install
1 - CLIP
2 - ROD
3 - MOUNTING BRACKET
4 - TRIM STICK
5 - LATCH TABS
6 - PARK BRAKE RELEASE HANDLE
BR/BEBRAKES - BASE 5 - 31
CABLE TENSIONER (Continued)

VEHICLE PREPARATION FOR HEADLAMP
ALIGNMENT
(1) Verify headlamp dimmer switch and high beam
indicator operation.
(2) Verify headlamps are set for low beam opera-
tion.
(3) Correct defective components that could hinder
proper headlamp alignment.
(4) Verify proper tire inflation.
(5) Clean headlamp lenses.
(6) Verify that luggage area is not heavily loaded.
(7) Fuel tank should be FULL. Add 2.94 kg (6.5
lbs.) of weight over the fuel tank for each estimated
gallon of missing fuel.
HEADLAMP ADJUSTMENT
Headlamps can be aligned using the screen method
provided or alignment tool C-4466±A or equivalent
can be used. refer to the instructions provided with
the tool for proper procedures.
A properly aimed low beam headlamp will project
top edge of high intensity pattern on screen from 50
mm (2 in.) above to 50 mm (2 in.) below headlamp
centerline. The side-to-side outboard edge of high
intensity pattern should be from 50 mm (2 in.) left to
50 mm (2 in.) right of headlamp centerline. (Fig. 20)
The preferred headlamp alignment is 1º down
for the up/down adjustment and 0 for the left/
right adjustment.The high beam pattern should be
correct when the low beams are aligned properly.
To adjust headlamp aim, rotate alignment screws
(Fig. 21) to achieve the specified high intensity pat-
tern.
LICENSE PLATE LAMP
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect and isolate the battery negative
cable.
(2) Remove license plate lamp lens.
(3) Pull bulb from license plate lamp.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install bulb in license plate lamp.
(2) Install license plate lamp lens.
(3) Connect the battery negative cable.
LICENSE PLATE LAMP UNIT
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect and isolate the battery negative
cable.
(2) Remove screws attaching license plate panel to
cargo box.
(3) Disengage license plate lamp wire connector
from body wire harness (Fig. 22).
(4) Separate license plate lamp from vehicle.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position license plate lamp in vehicle.
Fig. 21 Aero Headlamp Alignment
1 - LEFT AND RIGHT ADJUSTMENT SCREW
2 - UP AND DOWN ADJUSTMENT SCREW
Fig. 22 License Plate Lamp Panel
1 - LIGHTING HARNESS
2 - BUMPER
3 - LICENSE PLATE LAMP
4 - SCREW
5 - LAMP PANEL
8L - 22 LAMPS/LIGHTING - EXTERIORBR/BE
HEADLAMP UNIT (Continued)

TURN SIGNAL CANCEL CAM
DESCRIPTION
The turn signal cancel cam is concealed within the
steering column below the steering wheel. The turn
signal cancel cam consists of two lobes that are inte-
gral to the lower surface of the clockspring rotor. The
clockspring mechanism provides turn signal cancella-
tion as well as a constant electrical connection
between the horn switch, driver airbag, speed control
switches, and remote radio switches on the steering
wheel and the instrument panel wire harness on the
steering column. The housing of the clockspring is
secured to the steering column and remains station-
ary. The rotor of the clockspring, including the turn
signal cancel cam lobes rotate with the steering
wheel.
The turn signal cancel cam is serviced as a unit
with the clockspring and cannot be repaired. If faulty
or damaged, the entire clockspring unit must be
replaced. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/RESTRAINTS/
CLOCKSPRING - REMOVAL).
OPERATION
The turn signal cancel cam has two lobes molded
into the lower surface of the clockspring rotor. When
the turn signals are activated by moving the multi-
function switch control stalk to a detent position, a
turn signal cancel actuator is extended from the
inside surface of the multi-function switch housing
toward the center of the steering column and the
turn signal cancel cam. When the steering wheel is
rotated during a turning maneuver, one of the two
turn signal cancel cam lobes will contact the turn sig-
nal cancel actuator. The cancel actuator latches
against the cancel cam rotation in the direction oppo-
site that which is signaled. In other words, if the left
turn signal detent is selected, the lobes of the cancel
cam will ratchet past the cancel actuator when the
steering wheel is rotated to the left, but will unlatch
the cancel actuator as the steering wheel rotates to
the right and returns to center, which will cancel the
turn signal event and release the control stalk from
the detent so it returns to the neutral Off position.
UNDERHOOD LAMP
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect and isolate the battery negative
cable.
(2) Insert a small flat blade in the access slot
between the lamp base and lamp lens.
(3) Pry the lamp lens upward and remove the
lamp lens (Fig. 31).
(4) Depress the bulb terminal inward (Fig. 32) to
release the bulb.
Fig. 30 Tail, Brake, Turn Signal and Back-up Lamp
Bulb
1 - TAIL LAMP
2 - SCREW
3 - LIGHTING HARNESS
4 - BULB
5 - RETAINING CLIP
6 - RETAINING STUDS
Fig. 31 Underhood Lamp Lens
1 - LAMP
2 - LAMP LENS
BR/BELAMPS/LIGHTING - EXTERIOR 8L - 31
TAIL LAMP UNIT (Continued)