
(2) Use extream care and clean all gasket resdue
from the retainer.
(3) Apply a small amount of MopartSilicone Rub-
ber Adhesive Sealant to the retainer gasket. Position
the gasket onto the retainer.
(4) Position Special Tool 6687 Seal Guide onto the
crankshaft.
(5) Position the retainer and seal over the guide
and onto the engine block.
(6) Install the retainer mounting bolts. Tighten the
bolts to 22 N´m (16 ft. lbs.).
(7) Install the oil pan (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LU-
BRICATION/OIL PAN - INSTALLATION).
(8) Install the drive plate / flywheel.
(9) Install the transmission.
(10) Check and verify engine oil level.
(11) Start engine and check for leaks.
HYDRAULIC LIFTERS
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐHYDRAULIC
TAPPETS
Before disassembling any part of the engine to cor-
rect tappet noise, check the oil pressure. If vehicle
has no oil pressure gauge, install a reliable gauge at
the pressure sending-unit. The pressure should be
between 207-552 kPa (30-80 psi) at 3,000 RPM.
Check the oil level after the engine reaches normal
operating temperature. Allow 5 minutes to stabilize
oil level, check dipstick. The oil level in the pan
should never be above the FULL mark or below the
ADD OIL mark on dipstick. Either of these two con-
ditions could be responsible for noisy tappets.
OIL LEVEL
HIGH
If oil level is above the FULL mark, it is possible
for the connecting rods to dip into the oil. With the
engine running, this condition could create foam in
the oil pan. Foam in oil pan would be fed to the
hydraulic tappets by the oil pump causing them to
lose length and allow valves to seat noisily.
LOW
Low oil level may allow oil pump to take in air.
When air is fed to the tappets, they lose length,
which allows valves to seat noisily. Any leaks on
intake side of oil pump through which air can be
drawn will create the same tappet action. Check the
lubrication system from the intake strainer to the
pump cover, including the relief valve retainer cap.
When tappet noise is due to aeration, it may be
intermittent or constant, and usually more than one
tappet will be noisy. When oil level and leaks havebeen corrected, operate the engine at fast idle. Run
engine for a sufficient time to allow all of the air
inside the tappets to be bled out.
TAPPET NOISE DIAGNOSIS
(1) To determine source of tappet noise, operate
engine at idle with cylinder head covers removed.
(2) Feel each valve spring or rocker arm to detect
noisy tappet. The noisy tappet will cause the affected
spring and/or rocker arm to vibrate or feel rough in
operation.
NOTE: Worn valve guides or cocked springs are
sometimes mistaken for noisy tappets. If such is
the case, noise may be dampened by applying side
thrust on the valve spring. If noise is not apprecia-
bly reduced, it can be assumed the noise is in the
tappet. Inspect the rocker arm push rod sockets
and push rod ends for wear.
(3) Valve tappet noise ranges from light noise to a
heavy click. A light noise is usually caused by exces-
sive leak-down around the unit plunger, or by the
plunger partially sticking in the tappet body cylinder.
The tappet should be replaced. A heavy click is
caused by a tappet check valve not seating, or by for-
eign particles wedged between the plunger and the
tappet body. This will cause the plunger to stick in
the down position. This heavy click will be accompa-
nied by excessive clearance between the valve stem
and rocker arm as valve closes. In either case, tappet
assembly should be removed for inspection and clean-
ing.
(4) The valve train generates a noise very much
like a light tappet noise during normal operation.
Care must be taken to ensure that tappets are mak-
ing the noise. If more than one tappet seems to be
noisy, it's probably not the tappets.
LEAK-DOWN TEST
After cleaning and inspection, test each tappet for
specified leak-down rate tolerance to ensure zero-lash
operation (Fig. 36).
Swing the weighted arm of the hydraulic valve tap-
pet tester away from the ram of the Universal Leak-
Down Tester.
(1) Place a 7.925-7.950 mm (0.312-0.313 inch)
diameter ball bearing on the plunger cap of the tap-
pet.
(2) Lift the ram and position the tappet (with the
ball bearing) inside the tester cup.
(3) Lower the ram, then adjust the nose of the ram
until it contacts the ball bearing. DO NOT tighten
the hex nut on the ram.
(4) Fill the tester cup with hydraulic valve tappet
test oil until the tappet is completely submerged.
BR/BEENGINE 8.0L 9 - 91
CRANKSHAFT REAR OIL SEAL RETAINER (Continued)

37). Install the yoke retaining spider bolts and
tighten to 22 N´m (16 ft. lbs.) torque.
(4) Install the push rods in their original location.
(5) Install the rocker arms (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
CYLINDER HEAD/ROCKER ARM / ADJUSTER
ASSY - INSTALLATION).
(6) Install lower and upper intake manifold (Refer
to 9 - ENGINE/MANIFOLDS/INTAKE MANIFOLD -
INSTALLATION).
(7) The cylinder head cover gasket can be used
again. Install the gasket onto the head rail.For the
left side the number tab is at the front of
engine with the number up. For the right side
the number tab is at the rear of engine with the
number up.
(8) Install cylinder head cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - INSTALLATION).
(9) Install the air cleaner.
CAUTION: To prevent damage to valve mechanism,
engine must not be run above fast idle until all
hydraulic tappets have filled with oil and have
become quiet.
(10) Connect the negative cable to the battery.
(11) Road test vehicle and check for leaks.
PISTON & CONNECTING ROD
DESCRIPTION
The pistons (Fig. 38) are elliptically turned so that
the diameter at the pin boss is less than its diameter
across the thrust face. This allows for expansion
under normal operating conditions. Under operating
temperatures, expansion forces the pin bosses away
from each other, causing the piston to assume a more
nearly round shape.
All pistons are machined to the same weight,
regardless of size, to maintain piston balance.
The piston pin rotates in the piston only and is
retained by the press interference fit of the piston
pin in the connecting rod.
The pistons have a unique dry-film lubricant coat-
ing baked onto the skirts to reduce friction. The
lubricant is particularly effective during engine
break-in, but with time, the material becomes embed-
ded into cylinder bore walls and continues to reduce
friction.
The pistons are LH and RH bank specific.
STANDARD PROCEDUREÐPISTON FITTING
Piston and cylinder wall must be clean and dry.
Specified clearance between the piston and the cylin-
der wall is 0.013-0.038 mm (0.0005-0.0015 inch). The
max. allowable clearance is 0.0762 mm (0.003 in.).Piston diameter should be measured at the top of
skirt, 90É to piston pin axis. Cylinder bores should be
measured halfway down the cylinder bore and trans-
verse to the engine crankshaft center line.
Pistons and cylinder bores should be measured at
normal room temperature, 21ÉC (70ÉF).
(1) To correctly select the proper size piston, a cyl-
inder bore gauge, capable of reading in .00019
INCREMENTS is required (Fig. 39). If a bore gauge
is not available, do not use an inside micrometer.The
coating material is applied to the piston after the
final piston machining process. Measuring the out-
side diameter of a coated piston will not provide
accurate results. Therefore measuring the inside
diameter of the cylinder bore with a dial Bore Gauge
isMANDATORY.. To correctly select the proper size
piston, a cylinder bore gauge capable of reading in
.00019increments is required.Piston installation into
the cylinder bore require slightly more pressure than
that required for non-coated pistons. The bonded
Fig. 38 Piston and Connecting RodÐ8.0L Engine
1 - FRONT I.D. TOWARDS THIS SIDE
2 - ORIENTATION BUTTON TOWARDS REAR
(R.H. ONLY)
2, 4, 6, 8, 10
3 - ORIENTATION BUTTON TOWARDS FRONT
(L.H. ONLY)
1, 3, 5, 7, 9
BR/BEENGINE 8.0L 9 - 93
HYDRAULIC LIFTERS (Continued)

holes and the oil drain-back passages in the cylinder
head, past the valve tappet area, and then returns to
the oil pan (Fig. 52).
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐENGINE OIL
LEAKS
Begin with a through visual inspection of the
engine, particularly at the area of the suspected leak.
If an oil leak source is not readily identifiable, the
following steps should be followed:
(1) Do not clean or degrease the engine at this
time because some solvents may cause rubber to
swell, temporarily stopping the leak.
(2) Add an oil-soluble dye (use as recommended by
manufacturer). Start the engine and let idle for
approximately 15 minutes. Check the oil dipstick to
be sure the dye is thoroughly mixed as indicated
with a bright yellow color under a black light source.
(3) Using a black light, inspect the entire engine
for fluorescent dye, particularly at the suspected area
of oil leak. If the oil leak is found and identified,
repair per service manual instructions.
(4) If dye is not observed, drive the vehicle at var-
ious speeds for approximately 24km (15 miles), and
repeat previous step.
Fig. 50 Engine Rear Support Cushion Assembly
Fig. 51 Pressure Feed Type (Gerotor) Oil PumpÐ
Typical
1 - OUTER ROTOR
2 - INNER ROTOR
3 - OIL PUMP COVER
4 - TIMING CHAIN COVER
BR/BEENGINE 8.0L 9 - 99
LUBRICATION (Continued)

(3) Drain engine oil.
(4) Remove left engine to transmission strut.
(5) Remove oil pan mounting bolts, pan and one-
piece gasket. The engine may have to be raised
slightly on 2WD vehicles.
(6) Remove the oil pick-up tube assembly (Fig. 56)
. Discard the gasket.
CLEANING
Clean the block and pan gasket surfaces.
If present, trim excess sealant from inside the
engine.
Clean oil pan in solvent and wipe dry with a clean
cloth.
Clean oil screen and pipe thoroughly in clean sol-
vent. Inspect condition of screen.
INSPECTION
Inspect oil drain plug and plug hole for stripped or
damaged threads. Repair as necessary.
Inspect oil pan mounting flange for bends or distor-
tion. Straighten flange, if necessary.
INSTALLATION
(1) Fabricate 4 alignment dowels from 5/16x11/2
inch bolts. Cut the head off the bolts and cut a slot
into the top of the dowel. This will allow easier
installation and removal with a screwdriver (Fig. 57)
.
(2) Install the dowels in the cylinder block at the
four corners.
(3) Apply small amount of MopartSilicone Rubber
Adhesive Sealant, or equivalent at the split lines.
The split lines are between the cylinder block, the
timing chain cover and the rear crankshaft seal
assembly (Fig. 56) .After the sealant is appliedyou have 3 minutes to install the gasket and oil
pan.
(4) Slide the one-piece gasket over the dowels and
onto the block.
(5) Position the oil pan over the dowels and onto
the gasket. The engine may have to be slightly raised
on 2WD vehicles.
(6) Install the oil pan bolts (Fig. 58) . Tighten the
bolts to as shown in Oil Pan Bolts Torque Chart.
(7) Remove the dowels. Install the remaining 5/16
inch oil pan bolts. Torque these bolts as shown in Oil
Pan Bolts Torque Chart.
(8) Install the drain plug. Tighten drain plug to 34
N´m (25 ft. lbs.) torque.
(9) Install the engine to transmission strut.
(10) Lower vehicle.
(11) Connect the negative cable to the battery.
(12) Fill crankcase with oil to proper level.
(13) Start engine and check for leaks.
Fig. 56 Oil Pick-Up Tube
1 - PICKÐUP TUBE
2 - SEALANT AT SPLIT-LINES
3 - SEALANT AT SPLIT-LINE
Fig. 57 Fabrication of Alignment Dowels
1 - 5/16º X 1óº BOLT
2 - DOWEL
3 - SLOT
Fig. 58 Oil Pan Bolt Location
1 - OIL PAN
2 - OIL FILTER
3 - STUD BOLTS
4 - DRAIN PLUG
BR/BEENGINE 8.0L 9 - 103
OIL PAN (Continued)

INSTALLATION
WARNING: THE OUTSIDE EDGE OF THE HEAD
GASKET IS VERY SHARP. WHEN HANDLING THE
NEW HEAD GASKET, USE CARE NOT TO INJURE
YOURSELF.
(1) Install a new gasket with the part number side
up, and locate the gasket over the dowel sleeves.
(2) Using an engine lifting crane, lower the cylin-
der head onto the engine.
(3) Lightly lubricate head bolts with engine oil and
install. Using the sequence shown in (Fig. 30),
tighten bolts in the following steps:
(a) Torque bolts to 80 N´m (59 ft. lbs.)
(b) Torque bolts to 105 N´m (77 ft. lbs.)
(c) Re-check all bolts to 105 N´m (77 ft. lbs.)
(d) Tighten all bolts an additional ò turn (90É)
(4) Connect fuel return line at rear of head (Fig.
24). Install both sealing washers and torque banjo
bolt to 24 N´m (18 ft. lbs.).
(5) Install push rods into their original locations
(Fig. 31).Verify that they are seated in the tap-
pets.
(6) Lubricate valve stem tips and install the cross-
heads in their original locations.
(7) Lubricate the rocker arms and pedestals and
install them in their original locations (Fig. 32).
Install the bolts and torque them to 36 N´m (27 ft.
lbs.).
(8) Verify that the valve lash settings are main-
tained (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/IN-
TAKE/EXHAUST VALVES & SEATS - STANDARD
PROCEDURE).(9) Install cylinder head cover (Fig. 33) (Refer to 9
- ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - INSTALLATION).
(10) Connect the IAT and MAP sensor connectors.
(11) Install the fuel filter canister assembly and
torque mounting bolts to 24 N´m (18 ft. lbs.).
(12) Connect the lift pump to fuel filter low pres-
sure line. Torque fittings to 24 N´m (18 ft. lbs.).
(13) Connect the Water-in-Fuel and Fuel Heater
Element connectors at the filter assembly.
(14) Remove the engine lift bracket at rear of cyl-
inder head.
(15)Install the high pressure fuel lines (Fig.
18) (Fig. 19) as follows:
(a) Lubricate the threads (both ends) of the high
pressure line nuts with diesel fuel or engine oil.
Fig. 30 Cylinder Head Bolt Torque Sequence
Fig. 31 Push Rod Installation
Fig. 32 Rocker Arms and Pedestal Installation
1 - ROCKER ARM
2 - PEDESTAL
9 - 136 ENGINE 5.9L DIESELBR/BE
CYLINDER HEAD (Continued)

(10) Rinse the bores until the detergent is removed
and blow the block dry with compressed air.
(11) Check the bore cleanliness by wiping with a
white, lint free, lightly oiled cloth. If grit residue is
still present, repeat the cleaning process until all res-
idue is removed. Wash the bores and the complete
block assembly with solvent and dry with compressed
air.
(12) Be sure to remove the tape covering the lube
holes after the cleaning process is complete.
STANDARD PROCEDUREÐCYLINDER BORE
REPAIR
Cylinder bore(s) can be repaired by one of two
methods:
²Method 1:ÐOver boring and using oversize pis-
tons and rings.
²Method 2:ÐBoring and installing a repair sleeve
to return the bore to standard dimensions.
METHOD 1ÐOVERSIZE BORE
Cylinder bore(s) can be repaired by one of two
methods:
Oversize pistons and rings are available in two
sizes - 0.50 mm (0.0197 inch) and 1.00 mm (0.0393
inch).Any combination of standard, 0.50 mm (0.0197
inch) or 1.00 mm (0.0393 inch) overbore may be used
in the same engine.
If more than 1.00 mm (0.0393 inch) overbore is
needed, a repair sleeve can be installed (refer to
Method 2ÐRepair Sleeve).
Cylinder block bores may be bored twice before use
of a repair sleeve is required (Fig. 72). The first bore
is 0.50 mm (0.0197 inch) oversize. The second bore is
1.00 mm (0.0393 inch) oversize.
After boring to size, use a honing stone to chamfer
the edge of the bore (Fig. 72).
CYLINDER BORE DIMENSION CHART
DESCRIPTION MEASUREMENT
BORING DIAMETER
DIMENSION1st. REBORE - 102.469
mm (4.0342 in.)
2nd. REBORE - 102.969
mm (4.0539 in.)
HONING DIAMETER
DIMENSIONSSTANDARD - 102.020
0.020 mm (4.0165
0.0008 in.)
1st. REBORE - 102.520
0.020 mm (4.0362
0.0008 in.)
2nd. REBORE - 103.020
0.020 mm 4.0559
0.0008 in.)
CHAMFER
DIMENSIONSApprox. 1.25 mm (0.049
in.) by 15É
A correctly honed surface will have a crosshatch
appearance with the lines at 15É to 25É angles with
the top of the cylinder block (Fig. 73). For the rough
hone, use 80 grit honing stones. To finish hone, use
280 grit honing stones.
Fig. 70 Cylinder Bore Crosshatch Pattern
Fig. 71 De-Glazing Drill Speed and Vertical SpeedFig. 72 Cylinder Bore Dimensions
1 - CHAMFER
BR/BEENGINE 5.9L DIESEL 9 - 149
ENGINE BLOCK (Continued)

A maximum of 1.2 micrometer (48 microinch) sur-
face finish must be obtained.
After finish honing is complete, immediately clean
the cylinder bores with a strong solution of laundry
detergent and hot water.
After rinsing, blow the block dry.
Check the bore cleanliness by wiping with a white,
lint-free, lightly- oiled cloth. There should be no grit
residue present.
If the block is not to be used right away, coat it
with a rust- preventing compound.
METHOD 2ÐREPAIR SLEEVE
If more than a 1.00 mm (0.03937 inch) diameter
oversize bore is required, the block must be bored
and a repair sleeve installed.
Bore the block cylinder bore to 104.500-104.515
mm (4.1142-4.1148 inch) - (Fig. 74).
Repair sleeves can be replaced by using a boring
bar to bore out the old sleeve. DO NOT cut the cyl-
inder bore beyond the oversize limit.
REPAIR SLEEVE BLOCK REBORE
DIMENSIONS CHART
BORE DIAMETER STEP DIAMETER
104.500 + 0.015 mm
(4.1142 + 0.0006 in.)6.35 mm (0.25 in.)
After machining the block for the new repair
sleeve, thoroughly clean the bore of all metal chips,
debris and oil residue before installing the sleeve.
Cool the repair sleeve(s) to a temperature of -12ÉC
(10ÉF) or below for a minimum of one hour. Be ready
to install the sleeve immediately after removing it
from the freezer.
Apply a coat of Loctite 620, or equivalent to the
bore that is to be sleeved.
Wear protective gloves to push the cold sleeve into
the bore as far as possible.
Using a sleeve driver, drive the sleeve downward
until it contacts the step at the bottom of the bore
(Fig. 75).
A sleeve driver can be constructed as follows (Fig. 76).
SLEEVE DRIVER CONSTRUCTION
SPECIFICATION CHART
ITEM MEASUREMENT
A 127 mm (5 in.)
B 38 mm (1.5 in.)
C 6.35 mm (0.25 in.)
D 25.4 mm (1 in.)
E 101 mm (3.976 in.)
F 107.343 mm (4.226 in.)
Set up a boring bar and machine the sleeve to
101.956 mm (4.014 inch) - (Fig. 77).
Fig. 73 Crosshatch Pattern of Repaired Sleeve(s)
Fig. 74 Block Bore for Repair Sleeve Dimensions
1 - BORE DIAMETER
2 - STEP DIMENSION
Fig. 75 Sleeve Installation
1 - SLEEVE DRIVER
2 - SLEEVE
3 - CONTACT
9 - 150 ENGINE 5.9L DIESELBR/BE
ENGINE BLOCK (Continued)

(3) Always check the condition of the used oil. This
can give you an indication of engine problems that
might exist.
²Thin, black oil indicates fuel dilution.
²Milky discoloration indicates coolant dilution.
(4) Clean the area around the oil filter head.
Remove the filter (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRICA-
TION/OIL FILTER - REMOVAL).
(5) Install new oil filter (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LU-
BRICATION/OIL FILTER - INSTALLATION).
(6) Clean the drain plug and the sealing surface of
the pan. Check the condition of the threads and seal-
ing surface on the oil pan and drain plug.
(7) Install the drain plug. Tighten the plug to 50
N´m (37 ft. lbs.) torque.
(8) Use only High-Quality Multi-Viscosity lubricat-
ing oil in the Cummins Turbo Diesel engine. Choose
the correct oil for the operating conditions (Refer to
LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE/FLUID TYPES -
DESCRIPTION).
(9) Fill the engine with the correct grade of new oil
(Refer to LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE/FLUID
CAPACITIES - SPECIFICATIONS).
(10) Start the engine and operate it at idle for sev-
eral minutes. Check for leaks at the filter and drain
plug.
(11) Stop engine. Wait several minutes to allow the
oil to drain back to the pan and check the level
again.
USED ENGINE OIL DISPOSAL Care should be
exercised when disposing of used engine oil after
it has been drained from a vehicle's engine.
OIL COOLER & LINES
CLEANING AND INSPECTION
Clean the sealing surfaces.
Apply 483 kPa (70 psi) air pressure to the element
to check for leaks. If the element leaks, replace the
element.
OIL FILTER
REMOVAL
(1) Clean the area around the oil filter head.
Remove the filter using a 90-95 mm filter wrench.
(2) Clean the gasket surface of the filter head. The
filter canister O-Ring seal can stick on the filter
head. Make sure it is removed.
INSTALLATION
(1) Fill the oil filter element with clean oil before
installation. Use the same type oil that will be used
in the engine.
(2) Apply a light film of lubricating oil to the seal-
ing surface before installing the filter.
CAUTION: Mechanical over-tightening may distort
the threads or damage the filter element seal.
(3) Install the filter until it contacts the sealing
surface of the oil filter adapter. Tighten filter an
additional ó turn.
OIL PAN
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the battery negative cables.
(2) Raise vehicle on hoist.
(3) Remove transmission and transfer case (if
equipped).
(4) Remove flywheel.
(5) Disconnect starter cables from starter motor.
(6) Remove starter motor (Refer to 8 - ELECTRI-
CAL/STARTING/STARTER MOTOR - REMOVAL)
and transmission adapter plate assembly.
WARNING: HOT OIL CAN CAUSE PERSONAL
INJURY.
(7) Drain the engine oil (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LU-
BRICATION/OIL - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(8) Install the oil pan drain plug with a new seal-
ing washer and tighten to 60 N´m (44 ft. lbs.) torque.
(9) Remove oil pan bolts, break the pan to block
seal, and lower pan slightly and remove oil suction
tube fasteners.
(10) Remove oil pan and suction tube (Fig. 151).
CLEANING
Remove all gasket material from the oil pan and
cylinder block sealing surfaces. Extra effort may be
required around T-joint areas. Clean oil pan and
flush suction tube with a suitable solvent.
INSPECTION
Inspect the oil pan, suction tube, and tube braces
for cracks and damage. Replace any defective compo-
nent. Inspect the oil drain plug and drain hole
threads. Inspect the oil pan sealing surface for
straightness. Repair any minor imperfections with a
ball-peen hammer. Do not attempt to repair an oil
pan by welding.
BR/BEENGINE 5.9L DIESEL 9 - 179
OIL (Continued)