2002 DODGE RAM ECU

AXLE SHAFTS
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the axle shaft flange bolts.
(2) Slide the axle shaft out from the axle tube.
INSTALLATION
(1) Clean the gasket contact surface area on the
flange with an appropriate solvent. Install a new
flange gasket and slide the axle shaft into the tube.
(2) Install the bolts and tighten to 129 N´m (95 ft.
lbs.).
AXLE BEARINGS
REMOVAL
(1) Remove wheel and tire assembly.
(2) Remove brake drum.
(3) Remove the axle shaft.
(4) Remove the lock wedge and adjustment nut.
Remove adjustment nut with Socket DD-1241-JD.
(5) Remove the hub assembly. The outer axle bear-
ing will slide out as the hub is being removed.
(6) Drive grease seal and inner bearing out of the
hub with Installer 5064 and Handle C-4171.
(7) Remove bearing cups from the hub with a
brass drift and a hammer.
INSTALLATION
(1) Thoroughly clean both axle bearings and inte-
rior of the hub with an appropriate cleaning solvent.
(2) Install bearing cups with Installer 8153 and
Handle C-4171.
(3) Pack inner and outer bearings with Mopar
wheel bearing grease or equivalent
(4) Apply lubricant to surface area of the bearing
cup.
(5) Install inner axle bearing in the hub.
(6) Install anewbearing grease seal with
Installer 8152 and Handle C-4171.
(7) Inspect bearing and seal contact surfaces on
the axle tube spindle for burrs and/or roughness.
Remove all the rough contact surfaces from the axle
spindle.
CAUTION: Do not let grease seal contact the axle
tube threads during installation.
(8) Carefully slide the hub onto the axle.
(9) Install outer axle bearing.
(10) Install hub bearing adjustment nut with
Socket DD-1241±JD.
(11) Tighten adjustment nut to 163-190 N´m (120-
140 ft. lbs.) while rotating the wheel.(12) Loosen adjustment nut 1/8 of-a-turn to pro-
vide 0.001-inch to 0.010-inch wheel bearing end play.
(13) Tap the locking wedge into the spindle key-
way and adjustment nut.
NOTE: Locate locking wedge in a new position in
the adjustment nut.
(14) Install axle shaft and brake drum.
(15) Install wheel and tire assembly.
PINION SEAL
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Mark the universal joint, pinion yoke, and pin-
ion shaft for installation reference.
(3) Disconnect the propeller shaft from the pinion
yoke. Secure the propeller shaft in an upright posi-
tion to prevent damage to the rear universal joint.
(4) Remove wheel and tire assemblies.
(5) Remove brake calipers to prevent any drag.
The drag may cause a false bearing preload torque
measurement.
(6) Rotate pinion yoke three or four times.
(7) Record the amount of torque necessary to
rotate the pinion gear with an inch pound dial-type
torque wrench.
(8) Hold the yoke with Holder 6719A and remove
the pinion shaft nut and washer.
(9) Remove yoke from the pinion with Remover
C-452 (Fig. 22).
(10) Remove pinion shaft seal with suitable pry
tool or slide-hammer mounted screw.
Fig. 22 Yoke Removal
1 - PINION YOKE
2 - REMOVER
BR/BEREAR AXLE - 286RBI 3 - 123

mile or two. However, if the lining is both soaked and
dirt contaminated, cleaning and/or replacement will
be necessary.
BRAKE LINING CONTAMINATION
Brake lining contamination is mostly a product of
leaking calipers or wheel cylinders, worn seals, driv-
ing through deep water puddles, or lining that has
become covered with grease and grit during repair.
Contaminated lining should be replaced to avoid fur-
ther brake problems.
WHEEL AND TIRE PROBLEMS
Some conditions attributed to brake components
may actually be caused by a wheel or tire problem.
A damaged wheel can cause shudder, vibration and
pull. A worn or damaged tire can also cause pull.
Severely worn tires with very little tread left can
produce a grab-like condition as the tire loses and
recovers traction. Flat-spotted tires can cause vibra-
tion and generate shudder during brake operation. A
tire with internal damage such as a severe bruise,
cut, or ply separation can cause pull and vibration.
BRAKE NOISES
Some brake noise is common with rear drum
brakes and on some disc brakes during the first few
stops after a vehicle has been parked overnight or
stored. This is primarily due to the formation of trace
corrosion (light rust) on metal surfaces. This light
corrosion is typically cleared from the metal surfaces
after a few brake applications causing the noise to
subside.
BRAKE SQUEAK/SQUEAL
Brake squeak or squeal may be due to linings that
are wet or contaminated with brake fluid, grease, or
oil. Glazed linings and rotors with hard spots can
also contribute to squeak. Dirt and foreign material
embedded in the brake lining will also cause squeak/
squeal.
A very loud squeak or squeal is frequently a sign of
severely worn brake lining. If the lining has worn
through to the brake shoes in spots, metal-to-metal
contact occurs. If the condition is allowed to continue,
rotors and drums can become so scored that replace-
ment is necessary.
BRAKE CHATTER
Brake chatter is usually caused by loose or worn
components, or glazed/burnt lining. Rotors with hard
spots can also contribute to chatter. Additional causes
of chatter are out-of-tolerance rotors, brake lining not
securely attached to the shoes, loose wheel bearings
and contaminated brake lining.THUMP/CLUNK NOISE
Thumping or clunk noises during braking are fre-
quentlynotcaused by brake components. In many
cases, such noises are caused by loose or damaged
steering, suspension, or engine components. However,
calipers that bind on the slide surfaces can generate
a thump or clunk noise. In addition, worn out,
improperly adjusted, or improperly assembled rear
brake shoes can also produce a thump noise.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - MANUAL BLEEDING
Use Mopar brake fluid, or an equivalent quality
fluid meeting SAE J1703-F and DOT 3 standards
only. Use fresh, clean fluid from a sealed container at
all times.
(1) Remove reservoir filler caps and fill reservoir.
(2) If calipers, or wheel cylinders were overhauled,
open all caliper and wheel cylinder bleed screws.
Then close each bleed screw as fluid starts to drip
from it. Top off master cylinder reservoir once more
before proceeding.
(3) Attach one end of bleed hose to bleed screw
and insert opposite end in glass container partially
filled with brake fluid (Fig. 1). Be sure end of bleed
hose is immersed in fluid.
(4)
Open up bleeder, then have a helper press down
the brake pedal. Once the pedal is down close the
bleeder. Repeat bleeding until fluid stream is clear and
free of bubbles. Then move to the next wheel.
Fig. 1 Bleed Hose Setup
1 - BLEED HOSE
2 - FLUID CONTAINER PARTIALLY FILLED WITH FLUID
BR/BEBRAKES - BASE 5 - 7
HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL (Continued)

(3) Connect the pressure differential switch wire
connector.
(4) Bleed base brake system, (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL - STAN-
DARD PROCEDURE).
DISC BRAKE CALIPERS
DESCRIPTION
The caliper is a one-piece casting. The piston bores
are located in the inboard side. A square-cut piston
seal is located in a machined groove in the cylinder
bore.
The caliper pistons dust boot prevents dirt, water
and road splash from entering the piston bore. The
boot is seated in a groove machined at the outer end
of the caliper piston. The boot retaining flange is
seated in a counterbore machined in the outer end of
the caliper piston bore.
Ventilated disc brake rotors are used for all appli-
cations. The rotors are serviceable and can be
machined to restore surface finish when necessary.
OPERATION
When the brakes are applied fluid pressure is
exerted against the caliper piston. The fluid pressure
is exerted equally and in all directions. This means
pressure exerted against the caliper piston and
within the caliper bore will be equal (Fig. 5).
Fluid pressure applied to the piston is transmitted
directly to the inboard brake shoe. This forces the
shoe lining against the inner surface of the disc
brake rotor. At the same time, fluid pressure within
the piston bore forces the caliper to slide inward on
the mounting bolts. This action brings the outboard
brake shoe lining into contact with the outer surface
of the disc brake rotor.
In summary, fluid pressure acting simultaneously
on both piston and caliper, produces a strong clamp-
ing action. When sufficient force is applied, friction
will attempt to stop the rotors from turning and
bring the vehicle to a stop.
Application and release of the brake pedal gener-
ates only a very slight movement of the caliper and
piston. Upon release of the pedal, the caliper and pis-
ton return to a rest position. The brake shoes do not
retract an appreciable distance from the rotor. In
fact, clearance is usually at, or close to zero. The rea-
sons for this are to keep road debris from getting
between the rotor and lining and in wiping the rotor
surface clear each revolution.
The caliper piston seal controls the amount of pis-
ton extension needed to compensate for normal lining
wear.During brake application, the seal is deflected out-
ward by fluid pressure and piston movement (Fig. 6).
When the brakes (and fluid pressure) are released,
the seal relaxes and retracts the piston.
The amount of piston retraction is determined by
the amount of seal deflection. Generally the amount
is just enough to maintain contact between the pis-
ton and inboard brake shoe.
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - REAR
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Remove the tire and wheel assembly.
(3) Compress the disc brake caliper using tool
#C4212F.
(4) Remove the caliper pin bolts.
(5) Remove the banjo bolt and discard the copper
washer.
CAUTION: Never allow the disc brake caliper to
hang from the brake hose. Damage to the brake
hose with result. Provide a suitable support to hang
the caliper securely.
(6) Remove the rear disc brake caliper (Fig. 7).
Fig. 5 Brake Caliper Operation
1 - CALIPER
2 - PISTON
3 - PISTON BORE
4 - SEAL
5 - INBOARD SHOE
6 - OUTBOARD SHOE
5 - 10 BRAKES - BASEBR/BE
COMBINATION VALVE (Continued)

PEDAL
DESCRIPTION
The brake booster is operated by a suspended type
brake pedal. The pedal pivots on a shaft located in a
mounting bracket attached to the dash panel. The
pedal shaft is supported by bushings in the pedal
and mounting bracket. The brake pedal is attached
to the booster push rod.
OPERATION
When the pedal is depressed, the primary booster
push rod is depressed which move the booster sec-
ondary rod. The booster secondary rod depress the
master cylinder piston.
REMOVAL
(1) Remove knee bolster, (Refer to 23 - BODY/IN-
STRUMENT PANEL/STEERING COLUMN OPEN-
ING COVER - REMOVAL).
(2) Remove brake lamp switch, (Refer to 8 - ELEC-
TRICAL/LAMPS/LIGHTING - EXTERIOR/BRAKE
LAMP SWITCH - REMOVAL).
(3) Remove switches from tabs on brake lamp
switch bracket.
(4) Remove brake lamp switch bracket bolts and
remove bracket (Fig. 25).
(5) Remove clip and washer attaching booster push
rod and slide push rod off pedal.
(6) Remove E-clip from passenger side of pedal
shaft (Fig. 26). Use flat blade screwdriver to pry clip
out of shaft groove.
(7) Push shaft toward driver side of bracket just
enough to expose opposite E-clip. Then remove E-clip
with flat blade screwdriver.(8) Push pedal shaft back and out of passenger
side of bracket (Fig. 26).
(9) Remove pedal shaft, brake pedal, wave washer
and bushings from vehicle.
INSTALLATION
(1) Replace bracket and pedal bushings if neces-
sary. Lubricate shaft bores in bracket and pedal
before installing bushings with Mopar Multi-mileage
silicone grease.
(2) Apply liberal quantity of Mopar multi-mileage
grease to pedal shaft and to pedal and bracket bush-
ings.
(3) Position brake pedal in mounting bracket.
(4) Slide pedal shaft into bracket and through
pedal from passenger side.
(5) Push pedal shaft out driver side of mounting
bracket just enough to allow installation of retaining
E-clip.
(6) Install the wave washer between the bracket
and the pedal bushing on the passenger side.
(7) Push pedal shaft back toward passenger side of
bracket and install remaining E-clip on pedal shaft.
(8) Install booster push rod on brake pedal. Secure
push rod to pedal with washer and retaining clip.
(9) Install brake lamp switch bracket and switch,
(Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/LAMPS/LIGHTING -
Fig. 25 Brake Lamp Switch Bracket
1 - PEDAL BRACKET
2 - BRAKELIGHT SWITCH BRACKET
3 - BRACKET SCREWS (2)
Fig. 26 Brake Pedal Mounting (With Automatic
Transmission)
1 - PEDAL SHAFT
2 - SHAFT RETAINING E-CLIPS (2)
3 - BRAKE PEDAL
4 - PEDAL BUSHING (2)
5 - PEDAL MOUNTING BRACKET
BR/BEBRAKES - BASE 5 - 17

(7) Install the drum in hat assembly and verify
that the rotor rotates freely without drag.
(8) Install the wheel/tire assemblies, (Refer to 22 -
TIRES/WHEELS/WHEELS - STANDARD PROCE-
DURE).
(9) Lower the vehicle enough for access to the park
brake foot pedal. Then fully apply the park brakes.
NOTE: Leave park brakes applied until adjustment
is complete.
(10) Raise the vehicle again.
(11) Mark the tensioner rod 6.35 mm (1/4 in.) from
edge of the tensioner (Fig. 56).
(12) Tighten the adjusting nut on the tensioner rod
until the mark is no longer visible.
CAUTION: Do not loosen, or tighten the tensioner
adjusting nut for any reason after completing
adjustment.
(13) Lower the vehicle until the rear wheels are
15-20 cm (6-8 in.) off the shop floor.
(14) Release the park brake foot pedal and verify
that rear wheels rotate freely without drag. Then
lower the vehicle.
RELEASE HANDLE
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect and isolate the battery negative
cable.
(2) Reach under the driver side outboard end of
the instrument panel to access and unsnap the plas-tic retainer clip that secures the park brake release
linkage rod to the park brake mechanism on the left
cowl side inner panel.
(3) Disengage the park brake release linkage rod
end from the park brake mechanism.
(4) Lift the park brake release handle to access
and unsnap the plastic retainer clip that secures the
park brake release linkage rod to the lever on the
back of the park brake release handle.
(5) Lower the park brake release handle and reach
under the driver side outboard end of the instrument
panel to disengage the park brake release linkage
rod end from the lever on the back of the park brake
release handle.
(6) Lift the park brake release handle to access the
handle mounting bracket.
(7) Using a trim stick or another suitable wide
flat-bladed tool, gently pry each of the park brake
release handle mounting bracket latch tabs away
from the retaining notches in the instrument panel
receptacle (Fig. 57) .
(8) With both of the park brake release handle
mounting bracket latches released, slide the handle
and bracket assembly down and out of the instru-
ment panel receptacle.
Fig. 56 Adjustment Mark
1 - TENSIONER CABLE BRACKET
2 - TENSIONER
3 - CABLE CONNECTOR
4 - 6.35mm
(1/4 IN.)
5 - ADJUSTER NUTFig. 57 Park Brake Release Handle Remove/Install
1 - CLIP
2 - ROD
3 - MOUNTING BRACKET
4 - TRIM STICK
5 - LATCH TABS
6 - PARK BRAKE RELEASE HANDLE
BR/BEBRAKES - BASE 5 - 31
CABLE TENSIONER (Continued)

INSTALLATION
(1) Position the park brake release handle to the
instrument panel.
(2) Slide the handle and bracket assembly up into
the instrument panel receptacle until both of the
park brake release handle mounting bracket latches
are engaged with the notches in the instrument
panel receptacle.
(3) Lower the park brake release handle and reach
under the driver side outboard end of the instrument
panel to engage the park brake release linkage rod
end with the lever on the back of the park brake
release handle.
(4) Lift the park brake release handle to access
and snap the plastic retainer clip that secures the
park brake release linkage rod to the lever on the
back of the park brake release handle over the link-
age rod.
(5) Reach under the driver side outboard end of
the instrument panel to access and engage the park
brake release linkage rod end to the park brake
mechanism.
(6) Snap the plastic retainer clip that secures the
park brake release linkage rod to the park brake
mechanism on the left cowl side inner panel over the
linkage rod.
(7) Reconnect the battery negative cable.
SHOES
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Remove the tire and wheel assembly.
(3) Remove the disc brake caliper, (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/DISC
BRAKE CALIPERS - REMOVAL)
(4) Remove the disc brake rotor, (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/ROTORS -
REMOVAL)
(5) Lockout the parking brake cable (Fig. 58).
(6) Disengage the park brake cable from behind
the rotor assembly to allow easier disassembly of the
park brake shoes (Fig. 59).
(7) Disassemble the rear park brake shoes (Fig.
60).
INSTALLATION
(1) Reassemble the rear park brake shoes (Fig.
61).
(2) Release the parking brake cable.
(3) Adjust the rear park brake shoes (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/PARKING BRAKE/SHOES - ADJUST-
MENTS).(4) Install the disc brake rotor, (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/ROTORS -
INSTALLATION).
(5) Install the disc brake caliper, (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/DISC
BRAKE CALIPERS - INSTALLATION).
(6) Install the tire and wheel assembly, (Refer to
22 - TIRES/WHEELS/WHEELS - STANDARD PRO-
CEDURE).
(7) Lower the vehicle.
Fig. 58 LOCK OUT PARKING CABLE
1 - LOCKING PLIERS
2 - PARKING BRAKE CABLE
Fig. 59 DISENGAGEMENT OF CABLE
1 - LEVER
2 - CABLE END
5 - 32 BRAKES - BASEBR/BE
RELEASE HANDLE (Continued)

NOTE: Check the sensor wire routing. Be sure the
wire is clear of all chassis components and is not
twisted or kinked at any spot.
(6) Install the tire and wheel assembly.
(7) Remove the support and lower the vehicle.
(8) Reconnect the ABS wheel speed sensor wire
electrical connector inside the engine compartment.
(9) Apply the brakes several times to seat the
brake shoes and caliper piston. Do not move the vehi-
cle until a firm brake pedal is obtained.
(10) Verify the wheel speed sensor operation with
a scan tool.
REAR WHEEL SPEED SENSOR
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - REAR WHEEL
SPEED SENSOR
Diagnosis of base brake conditions which are
mechanical in nature should be performed first. This
includes brake noise, lack of power assist, parking
brake, or vehicle vibration during normal braking.
The Antilock brake system performs several self-
tests every time the ignition switch is turned on and
the vehicle is driven. The CAB monitors the system
inputs and outputs circuits to verify the system is
operating properly. If the CAB senses a malfunction
in the system it will set a DTC into memory and trig-
ger the warning lamp.
NOTE: The MDS or DRB III scan tool is used to
diagnose the Antilock Brake system. For test proce-
dures refer to the Chassis Diagnostic Manual.
REMOVAL
(1) Raise vehicle on hoist.
(2) Remove brake line mounting nut and remove
the brake line from the sensor stud.
(3) Remove mounting stud from the sensor and
shield (Fig. 6) .
(4) Remove sensor and shield from differential
housing.
(5) Disconnect sensor wire harness and remove
sensor.
INSTALLATION
(1) Connect harness to sensor.Be sure seal is
securely in place between sensor and wiring
connector.
(2) Install O-ring on sensor (if removed).
(3) Insert sensor in differential housing.
(4) Install sensor shield.
(5) Install the sensor mounting stud and tighten to
24 N´m (18 ft. lbs.).(6) Install the brake line on the sensor stud and
install the nut.
(7) Lower vehicle.
HCU (HYDRAULIC CONTROL
UNIT)
DESCRIPTION
The hydraulic control unit (HCU) consists of a
valve body, pump, two accumulators and a motor.
The assembly is mounted on the driverside inner
fender under the hood.
OPERATION
The pump, motor, and accumulators are combined
into an assembly attached to the valve body. The
accumulators store the extra fluid which had to be
dumped from the brakes. This is done to prevent the
wheels from locking up. The pump provides the fluid
volume needed and is operated by a DC type motor.
The motor is controlled by the CAB.
During normal braking, the HCU solenoid valves
and pump are not activated. The master cylinder and
power booster operate the same as a vehicle without
an ABS brake system.
The valve body contains the solenoid valves. The
valves modulate brake pressure during antilock brak-
ing and are controlled by the CAB.
The HCU provides three channel pressure control
to the front and rear brakes. One channel controls
the rear wheel brakes in tandem. The two remaining
channels control the front wheel brakes individually.
Fig. 6 Rear Speed Sensor Mounting
1 - WHEEL SPEED SENSOR
2 - AXLE
5 - 40 BRAKES - ABSBR/BE
FRONT WHEEL SPEED SENSOR (Continued)

(6) If pressure plate will be reused, loosen cover
bolts evenly only few threads at a time in a diagonal
pattern (Fig. 6). This relieves cover spring tension
evenly to avoid warping.
(7) Remove bolts completely and remove plate, disc
and alignment tool.
INSTALLATION
(1) Check runout and free operation of new clutch
disc.
(2) Insert clutch alignment tool in pressure plate
and clutch disc.
(3) Insert alignment tool in pilot bearing and posi-
tion plate and disc on flywheel (Fig. 7).
NOTE: Raised side of disc hub faces away from the
flywheel.
(4) Iinstall cover bolts finger tight.
(5) Tighten cover bolts evenly and a few threads at
a time.
CAUTION: Cover bolts must be tightened evenly to
avoid distorting cover.
(6) Tighten clutch cover bolts to:
²5/16 in. diameter bolts to 23 N´m (17 ft. lbs.).
²3/8 in. diameter bolts to 41 N´m (30 ft. lbs.).(7) Remove release lever and release bearing from
clutch housing. Apply Mopar high temperature bear-
ing grease or equivalent to bore of release bearing,
release lever contact surfaces and release lever pivot
stud (Fig. 8).
(8) Apply light coat of Mopar high temperature
bearing grease or equivalent to splines of transmis-
sion input shaft (or drive gear) and to release bearing
slide surface of the transmission front bearing
retainer (Fig. 9).
CAUTION: Do not over lubricate shaft splines. This
can result in grease contamination of disc.
(9) Install release lever and bearing in clutch
housing. Be sure spring clips that retain fork on
pivot ball and release bearing on fork are secure (Fig.
10). Also verify that the release lever is installed
properly.
NOTE: Release lever is installed correctly, when
lever part number is toward the bottom of the trans-
mission. Also a stamped ªIº in the lever goes
towards the pivot ball side of the transmission.
(10) Install transmission. Refer to 21 Transmission
and Transfer Case for procedures.
(11) Check fluid level in clutch master cylinder.
Fig. 6 Bolt Loosening/Tightening Pattern
Fig. 7 Pressure Plate And Disc Alignment
1 - FLYWHEEL
2 - PRESSURE PLATE AND DISC
3 - CLUTCH DISC ALIGNMENT TOOL
6 - 8 CLUTCHBR/BE
CLUTCH DISC (Continued)