
(3) Transfer slave cylinder, release fork and boot,
fork pivot stud and wire/hose brackets to new hous-
ing.
(4) Lubricate release fork and pivot contact sur-
faces with Mopar High Temperature wheel bearing
grease or equivalent before installation.
(5) Align and install clutch housing on transmis-
sion (Fig. 19). Tighten housing bolts closest to align-
ment dowels first and to the following torque values:
²1/4in. diameter ªAº bolts - 4.5 N´m (40 in.lb.).
²3/8in. diameter ªAº bolts - 47.5 N´m (35 ft.lb.).
²7/16in. diameter ªAº bolts - 68 N´m (50 ft.lb.).
²ªBº bolts for 5.2L/5.9L applications - 41 N´m (30
ft.lb.).
²ªBº bolts for 5.9L TD/8.0L applications - 47.5
N´m (35 ft.lb.).
²ªCº bolts for 5.2/5.9L applications - 68 N´m (50
ft.lb.).
²ªCº bolts for 5.9L TD applications - 47.5 N´m (35
ft.lb.).
²ªCº bolts for 8.0L applications - 74.5 N´m (55
ft.lb.).
(6) Install transmission-to-engine strut after
installing clutch housing. Tighten bolt attaching
strut to clutch housing first and engine bolt last.
(7) Install the starter to the clutch housing.
(8) Install the clutch housing dust shield to the
clutch housing. Tighten the bolts to
(9) Install transmission and transfer case, if
equipped. Refer to 21Transmission and Transfer Case
for proper procedures.
CLUTCH RELEASE BEARING
REMOVAL
(1) Remove transmission and transfer case, if
equipped. Refer to 21 Transmission and Transfer
Case forprocedures.
(2) Remove clutch housing, for NV4500 equipped
vehicles.
(3) Disconnect release bearing from release fork
and remove bearing (Fig. 20).
INSTALLATION
NOTE: Inspect bearing slide surface on transmis-
sion front bearing retainer. Replace retainer if slide
surface is scored, worn or cracked. Inspect release
lever and pivot stud. Be sure stud is secure and in
good condition. Be sure fork is not distorted or
worn. Replace fork spring clips if bent or damaged.
(1) Lubricate input shaft splines, bearing retainer
slide surface, lever pivot ball stud and release lever
pivot surface with Mopar high temperature bearing
grease or equilvalent.
Fig. 18 Transmission/Clutch Housing - NV4500
1 - CLUTCH HOUSING
2 - TRANSMISSION
Fig. 19 Clutch Housing Installation - NV4500
1 - ENGINE BLOCK
2 - CLUTCH DISC AND COVER
3 - CLUTCH HOUSING
4 - DUST COVER
6 - 12 CLUTCHBR/BE
CLUTCH HOUSING (Continued)

(2) Install release fork and release bearing (Fig.
21) and verify fork and bearing are secured by spring
clips. Also be sure that the release fork is installed
properly.
NOTE: The rear side of the release lever has one
end with a raised area. This raised area goes
toward the slave cylinder side of the transmission.
(3) Install clutch housing, if removed.(4) Install transmission and transfer case, if
equipped. Refer to 21 Transmission and Transfer
Case for procedures.
FLYWHEEL
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - FLYWHEEL
Check flywheel runout whenever misalignment is
suspected. Flywheel runout should not exceed 0.08
mm (0.003 in.). Measure runout at the outer edge of
the flywheel face with a dial indicator. Mount the
indicator on a stud installed in place of one of the fly-
wheel bolts.
Common causes of runout are:
²heat warpage
²improper machining
²incorrect bolt tightening
²improper seating on crankshaft flange shoulder
²foreign material on crankshaft flange
Flywheel machining is not recommended. The fly-
wheel clutch surface is machined to a unique contour
and machining will negate this feature. Minor fly-
wheel scoring can be cleaned up by hand with 180
grit emery or with surface grinding equipment.
Remove only enough material to reduce scoring
(approximately 0.001 - 0.003 in.). Heavy stock
removal isnot recommended.Replace the flywheel
if scoring is severe and deeper than 0.076 mm (0.003
in.). Excessive stock removal can result in flywheel
cracking or warpage after installation; it can also
weaken the flywheel and interfere with proper clutch
release.
Clean the crankshaft flange before mounting the
flywheel. Dirt and grease on the flange surface may
cock the flywheel causing excessive runout. Use new
bolts when remounting a flywheel and secure the
bolts with Mopar Lock And Seal or equivalent.
Tighten flywheel bolts to specified torque only. Over-
tightening can distort the flywheel hub causing
runout.
DISASSEMBLY
NOTE: If the teeth are worn or damaged, the fly-
wheel should be replaced as an assembly. This is
the recommended repair. In cases where a new fly-
wheel is not readily available, (V10/Diesel Engine
only) a replacement ring gear can be installed. The
following procedure must be observed to avoid
damaging the flywheel and replacement gear.
WARNING: WEAR PROTECTIVE GOGGLES OR
SAFETY GLASSES WHILE CUTTING RING GEAR.
Fig. 20 Clutch Release Components
1 - CONED WASHER
2 - CLUTCH HOUSING
3 - RELEASE FORK
4 - RELEASE BEARING AND SLEEVE
5 - PIVOT 23 N´m (200 IN. LBS.)
6 - SPRING
Fig. 21 Clutch Release Fork
1 - PIVOT BALL
2 - FORK
3 - SLAVE CYLINDER OPENING
4 - BEARING
BR/BECLUTCH 6 - 13
CLUTCH RELEASE BEARING (Continued)

CLUTCH PEDAL
REMOVAL
(1) Remove knee bolster for access to pedal pivot
shaft.
(2) Remove brake lamp switch.
(3) Remove retaining clips that secure the brake
and clutch pedals to the push rods (Fig. 23).
(4) Remove the brake and clutch master cylinder
pushrods from the pedals.
(5) Remove retainer from passenger side of pedal
pivot shaft (Fig. 24).
(6) Push pedal pivot shaft toward driver side of
support only enough to remove clutch pedal. It is not
necessary to remove shaft from pedal support
entirely.
(7) Remove clutch pedal.
INSTALLATION
Inspect bushings in clutch and brake pedals (Fig.
24). Replace bushings if worn, cracked, or distorted.
(1) Lubricate pedal shaft, pedal shaft bore (Fig. 24)
and all bushings with Mopar Multi Mileage or high
temperature bearing grease.
(2) Position clutch pedal in support. Align pedal
with pivot shaft and slide shaft through pedal bush-
ings. Then repeat process for brake pedal.(3) Slide pedal shaft through support and install
shaft retainer.
(4) Secure push rods to clutch and brake pedals.
(5) Install brake lamp switch in bracket.
(6) Install knee bolster.
LINKAGE
REMOVAL
NOTE: The factory installed hydraulic linkage has a
quick disconnect at the slave cylinder. This fitting
should not be disconnected, the hydraulic linkage
is serviced as an assembly only, but it comes as
two pieces to ease installation. Once the clutch
hydraulic line is connected to the slave cylinder, it
should not be disconnected.
(1) Raise and support vehicle.
(2) Remove nuts attaching slave cylinder to studs
on clutch housing (Fig. 25).
(3) Remove slave cylinder from clutch housing.
(4) Remove the plastic clip securing the hydraulic
line to the dash panel from the lower dash panel
flange.
Fig. 23 Clutch Cylinder And Push Rod
1 - PIN
2 - CLUTCH INTERLOCK WIRE
3 - PUSH ROD
4 - CLIP
Fig. 24 Clutch/Brake Pedal Mounting
1 - PEDAL SUPPORT
2 - SHAFT RETAINER
3 - BRAKE PEDAL
4 - CLUTCH PEDAL
5 - SHAFT RETAINER
6 - PEDAL PIVOT SHAFT
7 - BUSHINGS
BR/BECLUTCH 6 - 15

(5) Remove the plastic clip securing the hydraulic
line to the dash panel from the upper dash panel
stud.
(6) Lower vehicle.
(7) Disconnect clutch pedal interlock switch wires.
(8) Remove retaining clip (Fig. 26).
(9) Slide clutch master cylinder push rod off pedal
pin.
(10) Inspect condition of bushing in the clutch
master cylinder pushrod (Fig. 26). Replace the clutch
hydraulic linkage if bushing is worn or damaged.
(11) Verify that cap on clutch master cylinder res-
ervoir is tight. This will avoid spillage during
removal.
(12) Remove the nuts holding the clutch master
cylinder to the dash panel.
(13) Remove screws that attach clutch fluid reser-
voir to dash panel.
(14) Remove the clutch master cylinder from the
dash panel.
(15) Remove clutch cylinders, reservoir and con-
necting lines from vehicle.
INSTALLATION
NOTE: The factory installed hydraulic linkage has a
quick disconnect at the slave cylinder, this fitting
should not be disconnected. The hydraulic linkage
is serviced as an assembly only, but it comes as
two pieces to ease installation. Once the clutch
hydraulic line is connected to the slave cylinder, it
should not be disconnected.
(1) Tighten cap on clutch fluid reservoir to avoid
spillage during installation.
(2) Position cylinders, connecting lines and reser-
voir in vehicle engine compartment. Locate the clutch
hydraulic line against the dash panel and behind all
engine hoses and wiring.
(3) Insert clutch master cylinder in dash panel.
Install and tighten the nuts to hold the clutch master
cylinder to the dash panel.
(4) Apply a light coating of grease to the inside
and outside diameter of the master cylinder bushing.
(5) Install clutch master cylinder push rod on
clutch pedal pin. Secure rod with retaining clip.
(6) Connect clutch pedal position (interlock) switch
wires.
Fig. 25 Hydraulic Clutch Linkage
1 - DASH PANEL
2 - CYLINDER RESERVOIR
3 - CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER
4 - SLAVE CYLINDER
5 - CLUTCH HYDRAULIC LINE
Fig. 26 Clutch Cylinder Push Rod Attachment
1 - PIN
2 - CLUTCH INTERLOCK WIRE
3 - PUSH ROD
4 - CLIP
6 - 16 CLUTCHBR/BE
LINKAGE (Continued)

(7) Position clutch fluid reservoir on dash panel
and install reservoir screws. Tighten screws to 5 N´m
(40 in. lbs.).
(8) Install the plastic clip securing the hydraulic
line to the dash panel into the lower dash panel
flange.
(9) Install the plastic clip securing the hydraulic
line to the dash panel onto the upper dash panel
stud.
(10) Raise vehicle.
(11) Install slave cylinder. Be sure cap at end of
cylinder rod is seated in release lever. Check this
before installing cylinder attaching nuts.
NOTE: If new linkage is being installed, do not
remove the plastic shipping strap from slave cylin-
der push rod. The shipping strap will break on its
own upon the first clutch application.
(12) Install and tighten slave cylinder attaching
nuts to 23 N´m (200 in. lbs.).
(13) If a new clutch linkage is being installed, con-
nect the clutch hydraulic line (Fig. 27) to the clutch
slave cylinder.
(14) Lower vehicle.
(15) Operate linkage several times to verify proper
operation.CLUTCH PEDAL POSITION
SWITCH
DESCRIPTION
A clutch pedal position (interlock) switch is in the
starter relay circuit and is mounted on the clutch
master cylinder push rod (Fig. 28). The switch is
actuated by clutch pedal movement.
OPERATION
The switch, which is in circuit with the starter
solenoid, requires that the clutch pedal be fully
depressed in order to start the engine. Switch cir-
cuitry and operation is provided in section 8W of
Group 8.
The position switch is an integral part of the clutch
master cylinder push rod and is not serviced
separately.
Fig. 27 Clutch Slave Cylinder
1 - CLUTCH HYDRAULIC LINE
2 - CLUTCH SLAVE CYLINDER
Fig. 28 Clutch Pedal Position (Interlock) Switch
1 - PIN
2 - CLUTCH INTERLOCK WIRE
3 - PUSH ROD
4 - CLIP
BR/BECLUTCH 6 - 17
LINKAGE (Continued)

(4) Remove tensioner assembly from mounting
bracket (one nut) (Fig. 2).
(5) Remove pulley bolt. Remove pulley from ten-
sioner.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install pulley and pulley bolt to tensioner.
Tighten bolt to 61 N´m (45 ft. lbs.) torque.
(2) Install tensioner assembly to mounting
bracket. An indexing tab is located on back of ten-
sioner. Align this tab to slot in mounting bracket.
Tighten nut to 67 N´m (50 ft. lbs.) torque.
(3) Connect all wiring to ignition coil.
CAUTION: To prevent damage to coil case, coil
mounting bolts must be torqued.(4) Install coil to coil bracket. If nuts and bolts are
used to secure coil to coil bracket, tighten to 11 N´m
(100 in. lbs.) torque. If coil mounting bracket has
been tapped for coil mounting bolts, tighten bolts to 5
N´m (50 in. lbs.) torque.
(5) Install drive belt. (Refer to 7 - COOLING/AC-
CESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS - INSTALLA-
TION).
(6) Check belt indexing marks (Fig. 2).
BELT TENSIONERS - 8.0L
DESCRIPTION
CAUTION: Do not attempt to check belt tension with
a belt tension gauge on vehicles equipped with an
automatic belt tensioner.
Drive belts on 8.0L engines are equipped with a
spring loaded automatic belt tensioner (Fig. 3) This
belt tensioner will be used with all belt configura-
tions, such as with or without power steering or air
conditioning.
The tensioner is equipped with an indexing arrow
(Fig. 4) on back of tensioner and an indexing mark
on tensioner housing.
Fig. 2 Tensioner Indexing Marks and Mounting Nut
1 - TENSIONER ASSEMBLY
2 - TENSIONER MOUNTING NUT
3 - INDEXING ARROW
4 - INDEXING MARK
Fig. 3 Belt TensionerÐ8.0L V-10 Engines
1 - PULLEY BOLT
2 - IDLER PULLEY
3 - TENSIONER PULLEY
4 - TENSIONER
5 - TENSIONER MOUNTING BOLT
7 - 20 ACCESSORY DRIVEBR/BE
BELT TENSIONERS - 5.9L (Continued)

(6) Remove bottom, inboard nut that attaches
adapter to steering pump. This nut secures a small
bracket to engine block. Nut and bracket must be
removed before pump assembly can be removed from
block.
(7) Remove upper bolt that attaches pump assem-
bly to engine block (Fig. 26).
(8) Remove pump assembly from vehicle.
NOTE: The vacuum pump and adapter are serviced
as an assembly and must not be seperated.
(9) Remove the remaining three power steering
pump to adapter mounting nuts (Fig. 27).
(10) Gently, remove the steering pump from the
adapter. Use caution not to damage the oil seal in
the adapter body (Fig. 28).
Fig. 24 Vacuum Pump Oil Feed Line
1 - ENGINE BLOCK
2 - VACUUM PUMP
3 - VACUUM PUMP OIL FEED LINE
Fig. 25 Vacuum Pump Mounting
1 - PUMP ASSEMBLY LOWER MOUNTING BOLT
2 - ADAPTER BRACKET
3 - BOTTOMÐINBOARD ADAPTER BRACKET NUT
Fig. 26 Pump Assembly Upper Mounting Bolt
1 - PUMP UPPER BOLT
2 - DRIVE COVER
BR/BEACCESSORY DRIVE 7 - 35
VACUUM PUMP - 5.9L DIESEL (Continued)

(5) Do not attempt to remove fan/viscous fan drive
assembly from vehicle at this time.
(6) Do not unbolt fan blade assembly (Fig. 6) from
viscous fan drive at this time.
(7) Remove four fan shroud-to-radiator mounting
bolts.(8) Remove fan shroud and fan blade/viscous fan
drive assembly as a complete unit from vehicle.
(9) After removing fan blade/viscous fan drive
assembly,do notplace viscous fan drive in horizon-
tal position. If stored horizontally, silicone fluid in
the viscous fan drive could drain into its bearing
assembly and contaminate lubricant.
CAUTION: Do not remove water pump pulley-to-wa-
ter pump bolts. This pulley is under spring tension.
(10) Remove four bolts securing fan blade assem-
bly to viscous fan drive (Fig. 6).
CAUTION: Some engines equipped with serpentine
drive belts have reverse rotating fans and viscous
fan drives. They are marked with the word
REVERSE to designate their usage. Installation of
the wrong fan or viscous fan drive can result in
engine overheating.
CLEANING
Clean the fan blades using a mild soap and water.
Do not use an abrasive to clean the blades.
INSPECTION
WARNING: DO NOT ATTEMPT TO BEND OR
STRAIGHTEN FAN BLADES IF FAN IS NOT WITHIN
SPECIFICATIONS.
CAUTION: If fan blade assembly is replaced
because of mechanical damage, water pump and
viscous fan drive should also be inspected. These
components could have been damaged due to
excessive vibration.
(1) Remove fan blade assembly from viscous fan
drive unit (four bolts).
(2) Lay fan on a flat surface with leading edge fac-
ing down. With tip of blade touching flat surface,
replace fan if clearance between opposite blade and
surface is greater than 2.0 mm (.090 inch). Rocking
motion of opposite blades should not exceed 2.0 mm
(.090 inch). Test all blades in this manner.
(3) Inspect fan assembly for cracks, bends, loose
rivets or broken welds. Replace fan if any damage is
found.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install fan blade assembly to viscous fan drive.
Tighten bolts (Fig. 6) to 23 N´m (17 ft. lbs.) torque.
(2) Position fan shroud and fan blade/viscous fan
drive assembly to vehicle as a complete unit.
(3) Install fan shroud.
Fig. 5 Using Special Tool 6958 Spanner Wrench
1 - SPECIAL TOOL 6958 SPANNER WRENCH WITH ADAPTER
PINS 8346
2-FAN
Fig. 6 Fan Blade/Viscous Fan Drive - Gas Engines -
Typical
1 - WATER PUMP BYPASS HOSE
2 - FAN BLADE ASSEMBLY
3 - VISCOUS FAN DRIVE
4 - WATER PUMP AND PULLEY
7 - 42 ENGINEBR/BE
RADIATOR FAN - 5.9L/8.0L (Continued)