2002 DODGE RAM engine oil

DIFFERENTIAL
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support vehicle.
(2) Remove lubricant fill hole plug from the differ-
ential housing cover.
(3) Remove differential housing cover and drain
the lubricant from the housing.
(4) Clean the housing cavity with a flushing oil,
light engine oil or lint free cloth.Do not use water,
steam, kerosene or gasoline for cleaning.
(5) Remove hub bearings and axle shafts.
(6) Note the installation reference letters stamped
on the bearing caps and housing machined sealing
surface (Fig. 36).
(7) Remove the differential bearing caps.
(8) Position Spreader W-129-B with the tool dowel
pins seated in the locating holes (Fig. 37).
(9) Install the hold down clamps and tighten the
spreader turnbuckle finger-tight.
(10) Install Pilot Stud C-3288-B to the left side of
the differential housing and attach dial indicator to
the pilot stud. Load the indicator plunger against the
opposite side of the housing (Fig. 37) and zero the
dial indicator.
(11) Spread the housing enough to remove the case
from the housing. Measure the distance with the dial
indicator (Fig. 37).
CAUTION: Never spread the housing over 0.50 mm
(0.020 in). If the housing is over-spread it could be
distorted or damaged.
(12) Remove the dial indicator.
Fig. 35 PINION SHAFT NUT
1 - PINION FLANGE
2 - YOKE HOLDER
3 - DIFFERENTIAL HOUSING
Fig. 36 Bearing Cap Reference
1 - REFERENCE LETTERS
2 - REFERENCE LETTERS
Fig. 37 SPREAD DIFFERENTIAL HOUSING
1 - SPREADER
2 - DIAL INDICATOR
3 - DIFFERENTIAL
4 - DIFFERENTIAL HOUSING
5 - PILOT STUD
BR/BEFRONT AXLE - 248FBI 3 - 37
PINION SEAL (Continued)

CAUTION: Never loosen pinion gear nut to decrease
pinion rotating torque and never exceed specified pre-
load torque. If preload torque is exceeded a new pin-ion nut and collapsible spacer, if equipped, must be
installed.
(8) If rotating torque is low, use Yoke Holder 6719
to hold the pinion yoke (Fig. 25) and tighten the pin-
ion shaft nut in 6.8 N´m (5 ft. lbs.) increments until
proper rotating torque is achieved.
NOTE: The bearing rotating torque should be con-
stant during a complete revolution of the pinion. If
the rotating torque varies, this indicates a binding
condition.
(9) Install propeller shaft with reference marks
aligned.
(10) Add gear lubricant to the differential housing,
if necessary.
(11) Install wheel and tire assemblies and lower
the vehicle.
(12)
Pump the brake pedal before moving the vehicle.
DIFFERENTIAL
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Remove fill hole plug from the differential
housing cover.
(3) Remove differential housing cover and drain
lubricant from the housing.
(4) Clean the housing cavity with a flushing oil,
light engine oil or lint free cloth.Do not use water,
steam, kerosene or gasoline for cleaning.
(5) Remove axle shafts.
(6) Note the orientation of the installation refer-
ence letters stamped on the bearing caps and hous-
ing machined sealing surface (Fig. 27).
Fig. 25 TIGHTEN PINION NUT
1 - DIFFERENTIAL HOUSING
2 - YOKE HOLDER
3 - TORQUE WRENCH
Fig. 26 PINION ROTATING TORQUE
1 -TORQUE WRENCH
2 - PINION YOKE
Fig. 27 BEARING CAP IDENTIFICATION
1 - REFERENCE LETTERS
2 - REFERENCE LETTERS
3 - 64 REAR AXLE - 248RBIBR/BE
PINION SEAL (Continued)

DIFFERENTIAL
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Remove fill hole plug from the differential
housing cover.
(3) Remove differential housing cover and drain
lubricant from the housing.
(4) Clean the housing cavity with a flushing oil,
light engine oil or lint free cloth.Do not use water,
steam, kerosene or gasoline for cleaning.
(5) Remove axle shafts.
(6) Note the orientation of the installation refer-
ence letters stamped on the bearing caps and hous-
ing machined sealing surface (Fig. 27).
(7) Remove the differential bearing caps.
(8) Position Spreader W-129-B with the tool dowel
pins seated in the locating holes (Fig. 28).
(9) Install the hold down clamps and tighten the
tool turnbuckle finger-tight.
(10) Install a Pilot Stud C-3288-B at the left side
of the differential housing. Attach dial indicator to
housing pilot stud. Load the indicator plunger
against the opposite side of the housing (Fig. 28) and
zero the indicator.
(11) Spread the housing enough to remove the case
from the housing. Measure the distance with the dial
indicator (Fig. 28).CAUTION: Never spread the housing over 0.50 mm
(0.020 in). If housing is over-spread, it could be dis-
torted or damaged.
(12) Remove the dial indicator.
(13) Pry the differential case loose from the hous-
ing. To prevent damage, pivot on housing with the
end of the pry bar against spreader (Fig. 29).
(14) Remove the case from housing. Tag bearing
cups to indicate their location.
Fig. 26 Pinon Rotating Torque
1 -TORQUE WRENCH
2 - PINION YOKE
Fig. 27 BEARING CAP IDENTIFICATION
1 - REFERENCE LETTERS
2 - REFERENCE LETTERS
Fig. 28 SPREAD DIFFERENTIAL HOUSING
1 - SPREADER
2 - DIAL INDICATOR
3 - DIFFERENTIAL
4 - DIFFERENTIAL HOUSING
5 - PILOT STUD
3 - 96 REAR AXLE - 267RBIBR/BE
DIFFERENTIAL (Continued)

(12) Install wheel and tire assemblies and lower
the vehicle.
DIFFERENTIAL
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Remove fill hole plug from the differential
housing cover.
(3) Remove differential housing cover and drain
lubricant from the housing.
(4) Clean the housing cavity with a flushing oil,
light engine oil or lint free cloth.Do not use water,
steam, kerosene or gasoline for cleaning.
(5) Remove axle shafts.
(6) Note the orientation of the installation refer-
ence letters stamped on the bearing caps and hous-
ing machined sealing surface (Fig. 26).
(7) Remove the differential bearing caps.
(8) Position Spreader W-129-B with the tool dowel
pins seated in the locating holes (Fig. 27).
(9) Install the hold down clamps and tighten the
tool turnbuckle finger-tight.
(10) Install a Pilot Stud C-3288-B at the left side
of the differential housing. Attach dial indicator to
housing pilot stud. Load the indicator plunger
against the opposite side of the housing (Fig. 27) and
zero the indicator.
(11) Spread the housing enough to remove the case
from the housing. Measure the distance with the dial
indicator (Fig. 27).
CAUTION: Never spread the housing over 0.50 mm
(0.020 in). If housing is over-spread, it could be dis-
torted or damaged.(12) Remove the dial indicator.
(13) Pry the differential case loose from the hous-
ing. To prevent damage, pivot on housing with the
end of the pry bar against spreader (Fig. 28).
Fig. 26 BEARING CAP IDENTIFICATION
1 - REFERENCE LETTERS
2 - REFERENCE LETTERS
Fig. 27 SPREAD DIFFERENTIAL HOUSING
1 - SPREADER
2 - DIAL INDICATOR
3 - DIFFERENTIAL
4 - DIFFERENTIAL HOUSING
5 - PILOT STUD
Fig. 28 DIFFERENTIAL REMOVAL
1 - DIFFERENTIAL
2-PRYBAR
BR/BEREAR AXLE - 286RBI 3 - 125
PINION SEAL (Continued)

CAUTION: Never use gasoline, kerosene, alcohol,
motor oil, transmission fluid, or any fluid containing
mineral oil to clean the system components. These
fluids damage rubber cups and seals. Use only
fresh brake fluid or Mopar brake cleaner to clean or
flush brake system components. These are the only
cleaning materials recommended. If system contam-
ination is suspected, check the fluid for dirt, discol-
oration, or separation into distinct layers. Also
check the reservoir cap seal for distortion. Drain
and flush the system with new brake fluid if con-
tamination is suspected.
CAUTION: Use Mopar brake fluid, or an equivalent
quality fluid meeting SAE/DOT standards J1703 and
DOT 3. Brake fluid must be clean and free of con-
taminants. Use fresh fluid from sealed containers
only to ensure proper antilock component opera-
tion.
CAUTION: Use Mopar multi-mileage or high temper-
ature grease to lubricate caliper slide surfaces,
drum brake pivot pins, and shoe contact points on
the backing plates. Use multi-mileage grease or GE
661 or Dow 111 silicone grease on caliper slide pins
to ensure proper operation.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - BASE BRAKE
SYSTEM
Base brake components consist of the brake shoes,
calipers, wheel cylinders, brake drums, rotors, brake
lines, master cylinder, booster, and parking brake
components.
Brake diagnosis involves determining if the prob-
lem is related to a mechanical, hydraulic, or vacuum
operated component.
The first diagnosis step is the preliminary check.
PRELIMINARY BRAKE CHECK
(1) Check condition of tires and wheels. Damaged
wheels and worn, damaged, or underinflated tires
can cause pull, shudder, vibration, and a condition
similar to grab.
(2) If complaint was based on noise when braking,
check suspension components. Jounce front and rear
of vehicle and listen for noise that might be caused
by loose, worn or damaged suspension or steering
components.
(3) Inspect brake fluid level and condition. Note
that the brake reservoir fluid level will decrease in
proportion to normal lining wear.Also note that
brake fluid tends to darken over time. This is
normal and should not be mistaken for contam-
ination.(a) If fluid level is abnormally low, look for evi-
dence of leaks at calipers, wheel cylinders, brake
lines, and master cylinder.
(b) If fluid appears contaminated, drain out a
sample to examine. System will have to be flushed
if fluid is separated into layers, or contains a sub-
stance other than brake fluid. The system seals
and cups will also have to be replaced after flush-
ing. Use clean brake fluid to flush the system.
(4) Check parking brake operation. Verify free
movement and full release of cables and pedal. Also
note if vehicle was being operated with parking
brake partially applied.
(5) Check brake pedal operation. Verify that pedal
does not bind and has adequate free play. If pedal
lacks free play, check pedal and power booster for
being loose or for bind condition. Do not road test
until condition is corrected.
(6) Check booster vacuum check valve and hose.
(7) If components checked appear OK, road test
the vehicle.
ROAD TESTING
(1) If complaint involved low brake pedal, pump
pedal and note if it comes back up to normal height.
(2) Check brake pedal response with transmission
in Neutral and engine running. Pedal should remain
firm under constant foot pressure.
(3) During road test, make normal and firm brake
stops in 25-40 mph range. Note faulty brake opera-
tion such as low pedal, hard pedal, fade, pedal pulsa-
tion, pull, grab, drag, noise, etc.
(4) Attempt to stop the vehicle with the parking
brake only and note grab, drag, noise, etc.
PEDAL FALLS AWAY
A brake pedal that falls away under steady foot
pressure is generally the result of a system leak. The
leak point could be at a brake line, fitting, hose, or
caliper/wheel cylinder. If leakage is severe, fluid will
be evident at or around the leaking component.
Internal leakage (seal by-pass) in the master cylin-
der caused by worn or damaged piston cups, may
also be the problem cause.
An internal leak in the ABS or RWAL system may
also be the problem with no physical evidence.
LOW PEDAL
If a low pedal is experienced, pump the pedal sev-
eral times. If the pedal comes back up, worn linings,
rotors, drums, or rear brakes out of adjustment are
the most likely causes. The proper course of action is
to inspect and replace all worn component and make
the proper adjustments.
BR/BEBRAKES - BASE 5 - 5
HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL (Continued)

mile or two. However, if the lining is both soaked and
dirt contaminated, cleaning and/or replacement will
be necessary.
BRAKE LINING CONTAMINATION
Brake lining contamination is mostly a product of
leaking calipers or wheel cylinders, worn seals, driv-
ing through deep water puddles, or lining that has
become covered with grease and grit during repair.
Contaminated lining should be replaced to avoid fur-
ther brake problems.
WHEEL AND TIRE PROBLEMS
Some conditions attributed to brake components
may actually be caused by a wheel or tire problem.
A damaged wheel can cause shudder, vibration and
pull. A worn or damaged tire can also cause pull.
Severely worn tires with very little tread left can
produce a grab-like condition as the tire loses and
recovers traction. Flat-spotted tires can cause vibra-
tion and generate shudder during brake operation. A
tire with internal damage such as a severe bruise,
cut, or ply separation can cause pull and vibration.
BRAKE NOISES
Some brake noise is common with rear drum
brakes and on some disc brakes during the first few
stops after a vehicle has been parked overnight or
stored. This is primarily due to the formation of trace
corrosion (light rust) on metal surfaces. This light
corrosion is typically cleared from the metal surfaces
after a few brake applications causing the noise to
subside.
BRAKE SQUEAK/SQUEAL
Brake squeak or squeal may be due to linings that
are wet or contaminated with brake fluid, grease, or
oil. Glazed linings and rotors with hard spots can
also contribute to squeak. Dirt and foreign material
embedded in the brake lining will also cause squeak/
squeal.
A very loud squeak or squeal is frequently a sign of
severely worn brake lining. If the lining has worn
through to the brake shoes in spots, metal-to-metal
contact occurs. If the condition is allowed to continue,
rotors and drums can become so scored that replace-
ment is necessary.
BRAKE CHATTER
Brake chatter is usually caused by loose or worn
components, or glazed/burnt lining. Rotors with hard
spots can also contribute to chatter. Additional causes
of chatter are out-of-tolerance rotors, brake lining not
securely attached to the shoes, loose wheel bearings
and contaminated brake lining.THUMP/CLUNK NOISE
Thumping or clunk noises during braking are fre-
quentlynotcaused by brake components. In many
cases, such noises are caused by loose or damaged
steering, suspension, or engine components. However,
calipers that bind on the slide surfaces can generate
a thump or clunk noise. In addition, worn out,
improperly adjusted, or improperly assembled rear
brake shoes can also produce a thump noise.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - MANUAL BLEEDING
Use Mopar brake fluid, or an equivalent quality
fluid meeting SAE J1703-F and DOT 3 standards
only. Use fresh, clean fluid from a sealed container at
all times.
(1) Remove reservoir filler caps and fill reservoir.
(2) If calipers, or wheel cylinders were overhauled,
open all caliper and wheel cylinder bleed screws.
Then close each bleed screw as fluid starts to drip
from it. Top off master cylinder reservoir once more
before proceeding.
(3) Attach one end of bleed hose to bleed screw
and insert opposite end in glass container partially
filled with brake fluid (Fig. 1). Be sure end of bleed
hose is immersed in fluid.
(4)
Open up bleeder, then have a helper press down
the brake pedal. Once the pedal is down close the
bleeder. Repeat bleeding until fluid stream is clear and
free of bubbles. Then move to the next wheel.
Fig. 1 Bleed Hose Setup
1 - BLEED HOSE
2 - FLUID CONTAINER PARTIALLY FILLED WITH FLUID
BR/BEBRAKES - BASE 5 - 7
HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL (Continued)

(8) Remove the supports and lower the vehicle.
(9) Verify a firm pedal before moving the vehicle.
FLUID
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - BRAKE FLUID
CONTAMINATION
Indications of fluid contamination are swollen or
deteriorated rubber parts.
Swollen rubber parts indicate the presence of
petroleum in the brake fluid.
To test for contamination, put a small amount of
drained brake fluid in clear glass jar. If fluid sepa-
rates into layers, there is mineral oil or other fluid
contamination of the brake fluid.
If brake fluid is contaminated, drain and thor-
oughly flush system. Replace master cylinder, propor-
tioning valve, caliper seals, wheel cylinder seals,
Antilock Brakes hydraulic unit and all hydraulic
fluid hoses.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - BRAKE FLUID
LEVEL
Always clean the master cylinder reservoir and
caps before checking fluid level. If not cleaned, dirt
could enter the fluid.
The fluid fill level is indicated on the side of the
master cylinder reservoir (Fig. 19).
The correct fluid level is to the FULL indicator on
the side of the reservoir. If necessary, add fluid to the
proper level.
SPECIFICATIONS
BRAKE FLUID
The brake fluid used in this vehicle must conform
to DOT 3 specifications and SAE J1703 standards.
No other type of brake fluid is recommended or
approved for usage in the vehicle brake system. Use
only Mopar brake fluid or an equivalent from a
tightly sealed container.
CAUTION: Never use reclaimed brake fluid or fluid
from an container which has been left open. An
open container of brake fluid will absorb moisture
from the air and contaminate the fluid.
CAUTION: Never use any type of a petroleum-based
fluid in the brake hydraulic system. Use of such
type fluids will result in seal damage of the vehicle
brake hydraulic system causing a failure of the
vehicle brake system. Petroleum based fluids would
be items such as engine oil, transmission fluid,
power steering fluid, etc.
FLUID RESERVOIR
REMOVAL
(1) Remove reservoir cap and empty fluid into
drain container.
(2) Clamp cylinder body in vise with brass protec-
tive jaws.
(3) Remove pins that retain reservoir to master
cylinder. Use hammer and pin punch to remove pins
(Fig. 20).
(4) Loosen reservoir from grommets with pry tool
(Fig. 21).
(5) Remove reservoir by rocking it to one side and
pulling free of grommets (Fig. 22).
(6) Remove old grommets from cylinder body (Fig.
23).
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: Do not use any type of tool to install the
grommets. Tools may cut, or tear the grommets cre-
ating a leak problem after installation. Install the
grommets using finger pressure only.
(1) Lubricate new grommets with clean brake fluid
and Install new grommets in cylinder body (Fig. 24).
Use finger pressure to install and seat grommets.
(2) Start reservoir in grommets. Then rock reser-
voir back and forth while pressing downward to seat
it in grommets.
Fig. 19 Master Cylinder Fluid Level - Typical
1 - INDICATOR
2 - RESERVOIR
BR/BEBRAKES - BASE 5 - 15
DISC BRAKE CALIPERS (Continued)

OPERATION
When the clutch pedal is depressed, it actuates the
clutch master cylinder. This sends hydraulic pressure
to the clutch slave cylinder. The release fork is then
actuated by the slave cylinder mounted on the trans-
mission housing. The release fork pivots on a ball
stud mounted in the transmission housing and
pushes the release bearing. The release bearing then
depresses the pressure plate spring fingers, thereby
releasing pressure on the clutch disc and allowing
the engine crankshaft to spin independently of the
transmission input shaft (Fig. 2).
WARNING
WARNING: EXERCISE CARE WHEN SERVICING
CLUTCH COMPONENTS. FACTORY INSTALLED
CLUTCH DISCS DO NOT CONTAIN ASBESTOS
FIBERS. DUST AND DIRT ON CLUTCH PARTS MAY
CONTAIN ASBESTOS FIBERS FROM AFTERMAR-
KET COMPONENTS. BREATHING EXCESSIVE CON-
CENTRATIONS OF THESE FIBERS CAN CAUSE
SERIOUS BODILY HARM. WEAR A RESPIRATOR
DURING SERVICE AND NEVER CLEAN CLUTCH
COMPONENTS WITH COMPRESSED AIR OR WITH
A DRY BRUSH. EITHER CLEAN THE COMPONENTSWITH A WATER DAMPENED RAGS OR USE A VAC-
UUM CLEANER SPECIFICALLY DESIGNED FOR
REMOVING ASBESTOS FIBERS AND DUST. DO NOT
CREATE DUST BY SANDING A CLUTCH DISC.
REPLACE THE DISC IF THE FRICTION MATERIAL IS
DAMAGED OR CONTAMINATED. DISPOSE OF ALL
DUST AND DIRT CONTAINING ASBESTOS FIBERS
IN SEALED BAGS OR CONTAINERS. THIS WILL
HELP MINIMIZE EXPOSURE TO YOURSELF AND TO
OTHERS. FOLLOW ALL RECOMMENDED SAFETY
PRACTICES PRESCRIBED BY THE OCCUPATIONAL
SAFETY AND HEALTH ADMINISTRATION (OSHA)
AND THE ENVIRONMENTAL SAFETY AGENCY
(EPA), FOR THE HANDLING AND DISPOSAL OF
PRODUCTS CONTAINING ASBESTOS.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CLUTCH
A road test and component inspection (Fig. 3) is
recommended to determine a clutch problem.
During a road test, drive the vehicle at normal
speeds. Shift the transmission through all gear
ranges and observe clutch action. If the clutch chat-
ters, grabs, slips or does not release properly, remove
and inspect the clutch components. If the problem is
noise or hard shifting, further diagnosis may be
needed as the transmission or another driveline com-
ponent may be at fault.
CLUTCH CONTAMINATION
Fluid contamination is a frequent cause of clutch
malfunctions. Oil, water or clutch fluid on the clutch
disc and pressure plate surfaces will cause chatter,
slip and grab.
During inspection, note if any components are con-
taminated with oil, hydraulic fluid or water/road
splash.
Oil contamination indicates a leak at either the
rear main seal or transmission input shaft. Oil leak-
age produces a residue of oil on the housing interior
and on the clutch cover and flywheel. Heat buildup
caused by slippage between the cover, disc and fly-
wheel, can sometimes bake the oil residue onto the
components. The glaze-like residue ranges in color
from amber to black.
Road splash contamination means dirt/water is
entering the clutch housing due to loose bolts, hous-
ing cracks or through hydraulic line openings. Driv-
ing through deep water puddles can force water/road
splash into the housing through such openings.
Clutch fluid leaks are usually from damaged slave
cylinder push rod seals.
Fig. 2 CLUTCH OPERATION
1 - FLYWHEEL
2 - PRESSURE PLATE FINGERS
3 - PIVOT POINT
4 - RELEASE BEARING PUSHED IN
5 - CLUTCH DISC ENGAGED
6 - CLUTCH DISC ENGAGED
7 - RELEASE BEARING
6 - 2 CLUTCHBR/BE
CLUTCH (Continued)