2002 CHRYSLER VOYAGER Starter

(3) Remove torque converter or clutch housing
cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil.
Use a black light to check for the oil leak. If a leak is
present in this area, remove transmission for further
inspection.
(a) Circular spray pattern generally indicates
seal leakage or crankshaft damage.
(b) Where leakage tends to run straight down,
possible causes are a porous block, oil gallery cup
plug, bedplate to cylinder block mating surfaces
and seal bore. See proper repair procedures for
these items.
(4) If no leaks are detected, pressurize the crank-
case as previously described.
CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
(5) If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the
crankshaft and watch for leakage. If a leak is
detected between the crankshaft and seal while
slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the
crankshaft seal surface is damaged. The seal area on
the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches
that can be polished out with emery cloth.
CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft
polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks and
scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is especially
machined to complement the function of the rear oil
seal.
(6) For bubbles that remain steady with shaft
rotation, no further inspection can be done until dis-
assembled.
(7) After the oil leak root cause and appropriate
corrective action have been identified, replace compo-
nent(s) as necessary.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CYLINDER
COMPRESSION PRESSURE TEST
The results of a cylinder compression pressure test
can be utilized to diagnose several engine malfunc-
tions.
Ensure the battery is completely charged and the
engine starter motor is in good operating condition.
Otherwise the indicated compression pressures may
not be valid for diagnosis purposes.
(1) Check engine oil level and add oil if necessary.
(2) Drive the vehicle until engine reaches normal
operating temperature. Select a route free from traf-
fic and other forms of congestion, observe all traffic
laws, and accelerate through the gears several times
briskly.
(3) Remove all spark plugs from engine. As spark
plugs are being removed, check electrodes for abnor-
mal firing indicators fouled, hot, oily, etc. Record cyl-
inder number of spark plug for future reference.(4) Remove the Auto Shutdown (ASD) relay from
the PDC.
(5) Be sure throttle blade is fully open during the
compression check.
(6) Insert compression gauge adaptor Special Tool
8116 or the equivalent, into the #1 spark plug hole in
cylinder head. Connect the 0±500 psi (Blue) pressure
transducer (Special Tool CH7059) with cable adap-
tors to the DRBIIIt. For Special Tool identification,
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE - SPECIAL TOOLS).
(7) Crank engine until maximum pressure is
reached on gauge. Record this pressure as #1 cylin-
der pressure.
(8) Repeat the previous step for all remaining cyl-
inders.
(9) Compression should not be less than 689 kPa
(100 psi) and not vary more than 25 percent from cyl-
inder to cylinder.
(10) If one or more cylinders have abnormally low
compression pressures, repeat the compression test.
(11) If the same cylinder or cylinders repeat an
abnormally low reading on the second compression
test, it could indicate the existence of a problem in
the cylinder in question.The recommended com-
pression pressures are to be used only as a
guide to diagnosing engine problems. An engine
should not be disassembled to determine the
cause of low compression unless some malfunc-
tion is present.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CYLINDER
COMBUSTION PRESSURE LEAKAGE TEST
The combustion pressure leakage test provides an
accurate means for determining engine condition.
Combustion pressure leakage testing will detect:
²Exhaust and intake valve leaks (improper seat-
ing).
²Leaks between adjacent cylinders or into water
jacket.
²Any causes for combustion/compression pressure
loss.
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE THE PRESSURE CAP
WITH THE SYSTEM HOT AND UNDER PRESSURE
BECAUSE SERIOUS BURNS FROM COOLANT CAN
OCCUR.
Check the coolant level and fill as required. DO
NOT install the pressure cap.
Start and operate the engine until it attains nor-
mal operating temperature, then turn the engine
OFF.
Clean spark plug recesses with compressed air.
Remove the spark plugs.
Remove the oil filler cap.
Remove the air cleaner.
RSENGINE 2.4L9-9
ENGINE 2.4L (Continued)
ProCarManuals.com

Calibrate the tester according to the manufactur-
er's instructions. The shop air source for testing
should maintain 483 kPa (70 psi) minimum, 1,379
kPa (200 psi) maximum, with 552 kPa (80 psi) rec-
ommended.
Perform the test procedures on each cylinder
according to the tester manufacturer's instructions.
While testing, listen for pressurized air escaping
through the throttle body, tailpipe and oil filler cap
opening. Check for bubbles in the coolant.
All gauge pressure indications should be equal,
with no more than 25% leakage per cylinder.
FOR EXAMPLE:At 552 kPa (80 psi) input pres-
sure, a minimum of 414 kPa (60 psi) should be main-
tained in the cylinder.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - ENGINE CORE AND
OIL GALLERY PLUGS
Using a blunt tool such as a drift and a hammer,
strike the bottom edge of the cup plug. With the cup
plug rotated, grasp firmly with pliers or other suit-
able tool and remove plug (Fig. 2).
CAUTION: Do not drive cup plug into the casting as
restricted cooling can result and cause serious
engine problems.Thoroughly clean inside of cup plug hole in cylin-
der block or head. Be sure to remove old sealer.
Lightly coat inside of cup plug hole with Mopart
Stud and Bearing Mount. Make certain the new plug
is cleaned of all oil or grease. Using proper drive
plug, drive plug into hole so that the sharp edge of
the plug is at least 0.5 mm (0.020 in.) inside the
lead-in chamfer.
It is not necessary to wait for curing of the sealant.
The cooling system can be refilled and the vehicle
placed in service immediately.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - REPAIR OF
DAMAGED OR WORN THREADS
Damaged or worn threads (excluding spark plug
and camshaft bearing cap attaching threads) can be
repaired. Essentially, this repair consists of drilling
out worn or damaged threads, tapping the hole with
a special Heli-Coil Tap, (or equivalent) and installing
an insert into the tapped hole. This brings the hole
back to its original thread size.
CAUTION: Be sure that the tapped holes maintain
the original center line.
Heli-Coil tools and inserts are readily available
from automotive parts jobbers.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - HYDROSTATIC
LOCKED ENGINE
When an engine is suspected to be hydrostatically
locked, regardless of what caused the problem, the
following steps should be used.
CAUTION: DO NOT use starter motor to rotate the
engine, severe damage may occur.
(1) Inspect air cleaner, induction system and
intake manifold to insure system is dry and clear of
foreign material.
(2) Remove negative battery cable.
(3) Place a shop towel around the spark plugs
when removing them from the engine. This will catch
any fluid that may possibly be in the cylinder under
pressure.
(4) With all spark plugs removed, rotate engine
crankshaft using a breaker bar and socket.
(5) Identify the fluid in the cylinder(s) (i.e., cool-
ant, fuel, oil or other).
(6) Make sure all fluid has been removed from the
cylinders. Inspect engine for damage (i.e., connecting
rods, pistons, valves, etc.)
(7) Repair engine or components as necessary to
prevent this problem from re-occurring.
Fig. 2 Core Hole Plug Removal
1 - CYLINDER BLOCK
2 - REMOVE PLUG WITH PLIERS
3 - STRIKE HERE WITH HAMMER
4 - DRIFT PUNCH
5 - CUP PLUG
9 - 10 ENGINE 2.4LRS
ENGINE 2.4L (Continued)
ProCarManuals.com

(22) Remove engine front mount and bracket from
engine. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/ENGINE MOUNTING/
FRONT MOUNT - REMOVAL)
(23) Remove structural collar. (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/STRUCTURAL COVER -
REMOVAL)
(24) Remove rear engine mount bracket. (Refer to
9 - ENGINE/ENGINE MOUNTING/REAR MOUNT -
REMOVAL)
(25) Mark flex plate to torque converter and
remove torque converter bolts.
(26) Pinch-off power steering supply hose at pump.
Remove hose from pump.
(27) Remove and set aside the power steering
pump and bracket. Do not disconnect pressure line.
(28) Lower vehicle.
(29) Remove A/C lines at compressor and cap open-
ings.
(30) Remove engine ground straps (strap at engine
right mount and at starter).
(31) Raise vehicle enough to allow engine dolly
Special Tool 6135, cradle Special Tool 6710 with
Posts Special Tool 6848 to be installed under vehicle
(Fig. 8).
(32) Loosen cradle posts to allow movement for
proper positioning. Locate two rear posts (right side
of engine) into the holes on the engine bedplate.
Locate the two front posts (left side of engine) on the
oil pan rails (Fig. 8). Lower vehicle and position cra-
dle mounts until the engine is resting on mounts.
Tighten mounts to cradle frame. This will keep
mounts from moving when removing or installing
engine and transmission.
(33) Install safety straps around the engine to cra-
dle. Tighten straps and lock.
(34) Lower vehicle so the weight ofONLY THE
ENGINE AND TRANSMISSIONare on the cradle.
(35) Remove engine and transmission mount bolts.
(36) Raise vehicle slowly. It may be necessary to
move the engine/transmission assembly with the
dolly to allow for removal around the body.
Fig. 6 Crossmember Cradle Plate
1 - CRADLE PLATE
Fig. 7 Catalytic Converter to Exhaust Manifold
1 - CATALYTIC CONVERTER
2 - BOLT
3 - GASKET
4 - FLAG NUT
9 - 14 ENGINE 2.4LRS
ENGINE 2.4L (Continued)
ProCarManuals.com

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE DIAGNOSIS - PERFORMANCE
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION
ENGINE WILL NOT START 1. Weak battery. 1. Test battery. Charge or replace
as necessary. (Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/BATTERY SYSTEM -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING)
2. Corroded or loose battery
connections.2. Clean and tighten battery
connections. Apply a coat of light
mineral grease to terminals.
3. Faulty starter. 3. Test starting system. (Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/STARTING -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING)
4. Faulty coil(s) or control unit. 4. Test and replace as needed.
(Refer to Appropriate Diagnostic
Information)
5. Incorrect spark plug gap. 5. Set gap. (Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/IGNITION CONTROL
- SPECIFICATIONS)
6. Contamination in fuel system. 6. Clean system and replace fuel
filter.
7. Faulty fuel pump. 7. Test fuel pump and replace as
needed. (Refer to Appropriate
Diagnostic Information)
8. Incorrect engine timing. 8. Check for a skipped timing
belt/chain.
ENGINE STALLS OR IDLES
ROUGH1. Idle speed too low. 1. Test minimum air flow. (Refer to
Appropriate Diagnostic Information)
2. Incorrect fuel mixture. 2. (Refer to Appropriate Diagnostic
Information)
3. Intake manifold leakage. 3. Inspect intake manifold, manifold
gasket, and vacuum hoses.
4. Faulty ignition coil(s). 4. Test and replace as necessary.
(Refer to Appropriate Diagnostic
Information)
9 - 78 ENGINE 3.3/3.8LRS
ENGINE 3.3/3.8L (Continued)
ProCarManuals.com

(3) Remove torque converter or clutch housing
cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil.
Use a black light to check for the oil leak. If a leak is
present in this area, remove transmission for further
inspection.
(a) Circular spray pattern generally indicates
seal leakage or crankshaft damage.
(b) Where leakage tends to run straight down,
possible causes are a porous block, oil gallery cup
plug, bedplate to cylinder block mating surfaces
and seal bore. See proper repair procedures for
these items.
(4) If no leaks are detected, pressurize the crank-
case as previously described.
CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
(5) If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the
crankshaft and watch for leakage. If a leak is
detected between the crankshaft and seal while
slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the
crankshaft seal surface is damaged. The seal area on
the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches
that can be polished out with emery cloth.
CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft
polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks and
scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is especially
machined to complement the function of the rear oil
seal.
(6) For bubbles that remain steady with shaft
rotation, no further inspection can be done until dis-
assembled.
(7) After the oil leak root cause and appropriate
corrective action have been identified, replace compo-
nent(s) as necessary.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CYLINDER
COMPRESSION PRESSURE TEST
The results of a cylinder compression pressure test
can be utilized to diagnose several engine malfunc-
tions.
Ensure the battery is completely charged and the
engine starter motor is in good operating condition.
Otherwise the indicated compression pressures may
not be valid for diagnosis purposes.
(1) Check engine oil level and add oil if necessary.
(2) Drive the vehicle until engine reaches normal
operating temperature. Select a route free from traf-
fic and other forms of congestion, observe all traffic
laws, and accelerate through the gears several times
briskly.
(3) Remove all spark plugs from engine. As spark
plugs are being removed, check electrodes for abnor-
mal firing indicators fouled, hot, oily, etc. Record cyl-
inder number of spark plug for future reference.(4) Remove the Auto Shutdown (ASD) relay from
the PDC.
(5) Be sure throttle blade is fully open during the
compression check.
(6) Insert compression gauge adaptor Special Tool
8116 or the equivalent, into the #1 spark plug hole in
cylinder head. Connect the 0±500 psi (Blue) pressure
transducer (Special Tool CH7059) with cable adap-
tors to the DRBIIIt. For Special Tool identification,
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE - SPECIAL TOOLS).
(7) Crank engine until maximum pressure is
reached on gauge. Record this pressure as #1 cylin-
der pressure.
(8) Repeat the previous step for all remaining cyl-
inders.
(9) Compression should not be less than 689 kPa
(100 psi) and not vary more than 25 percent from cyl-
inder to cylinder.
(10) If one or more cylinders have abnormally low
compression pressures, repeat the compression test.
(11) If the same cylinder or cylinders repeat an
abnormally low reading on the second compression
test, it could indicate the existence of a problem in
the cylinder in question.The recommended com-
pression pressures are to be used only as a
guide to diagnosing engine problems. An engine
should not be disassembled to determine the
cause of low compression unless some malfunc-
tion is present.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CYLINDER
COMBUSTION PRESSURE LEAKAGE TEST
The combustion pressure leakage test provides an
accurate means for determining engine condition.
Combustion pressure leakage testing will detect:
²Exhaust and intake valve leaks (improper seat-
ing).
²Leaks between adjacent cylinders or into water
jacket.
²Any causes for combustion/compression pressure
loss.
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE THE PRESSURE CAP
WITH THE SYSTEM HOT AND UNDER PRESSURE
BECAUSE SERIOUS BURNS FROM COOLANT CAN
OCCUR.
Check the coolant level and fill as required. DO
NOT install the pressure cap.
Start and operate the engine until it attains nor-
mal operating temperature, then turn the engine
OFF.
Clean spark plug recesses with compressed air.
Remove the spark plugs.
Remove the oil filler cap.
Remove the air cleaner.
RSENGINE 3.3/3.8L9-83
ENGINE 3.3/3.8L (Continued)
ProCarManuals.com

STANDARD PROCEDURE - HYDROSTATIC
LOCKED ENGINE
When an engine is suspected to be hydrostatically
locked, regardless of what caused the problem, the
following steps should be used.
CAUTION: DO NOT use starter motor to rotate the
engine, severe damage may occur.
(1) Inspect air cleaner, induction system and
intake manifold to insure system is dry and clear of
foreign material.
(2) Remove negative battery cable.
(3) Place a shop towel around the spark plugs
when removing them from the engine. This will catch
any fluid that may possibly be in the cylinder under
pressure.
(4) With all spark plugs removed, rotate engine
crankshaft using a breaker bar and socket.
(5) Identify the fluid in the cylinder(s) (i.e., cool-
ant, fuel, oil or other).
(6) Make sure all fluid has been removed from the
cylinders. Inspect engine for damage (i.e., connecting
rods, pistons, valves, etc.)
(7) Repair engine or components as necessary to
prevent this problem from re-occurring.
CAUTION: Squirt approximately one teaspoon of oil
into the cylinders, rotate engine to lubricate the cyl-
inder walls to prevent damage on restart.
(8) Install new spark plugs.
(9) Drain engine oil and remove oil filter.
(10) Install a new oil filter.
(11) Fill engine with specified amount of approved
oil.
(12) Connect negative battery cable.
(13) Start engine and check for any leaks.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - REPAIR OF
DAMAGED OR WORN THREADS
Damaged or worn threads (excluding spark plug
and camshaft bearing cap attaching threads) can be
repaired. Essentially, this repair consists of drilling
out worn or damaged threads, tapping the hole with
a special Heli-Coil Tap, (or equivalent) and installing
an insert into the tapped hole. This brings the hole
back to its original thread size.CAUTION: Be sure that the tapped holes maintain
the original center line.
Heli-Coil tools and inserts are readily available
from automotive parts jobbers.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - ENGINE CORE AND
OIL GALLERY PLUGS
Using a blunt tool such as a drift and a hammer,
strike the bottom edge of the cup plug. With the cup
plug rotated, grasp firmly with pliers or other suit-
able tool and remove plug (Fig. 5).
CAUTION: Do not drive cup plug into the casting as
restricted cooling can result and cause serious
engine problems.
Thoroughly clean inside of cup plug hole in cylin-
der block or head. Be sure to remove old sealer.
Lightly coat inside of cup plug hole with Mopart
Stud and Bearing Mount. Make certain the new plug
is cleaned of all oil or grease. Using proper drive
plug, drive plug into hole so that the sharp edge of
the plug is at least 0.5 mm (0.020 in.) inside the
lead-in chamfer.
It is not necessary to wait for curing of the sealant.
The cooling system can be refilled and the vehicle
placed in service immediately.
Fig. 5 Core Hole Plug Removal
1 - CYLINDER BLOCK
2 - REMOVE PLUG WITH PLIERS
3 - STRIKE HERE WITH HAMMER
4 - DRIFT PUNCH
5 - CUP PLUG
9 - 86 ENGINE 3.3/3.8LRS
ENGINE 3.3/3.8L (Continued)
ProCarManuals.com

(17) Remove battery shield.
(18) Remove charge air cooler outlet hose.
(19) Remove charge air cooler inlet hose (Fig. 6).
(20) Disconnect upper radiator hose at engine (Fig.
7).
(21) Disconnect lower radiator hose at engine (Fig.
7).
(22) Disconnet brake booster vacuum supply hose.
(23) Disconnect heater core return hose at engine.
(24) Disconnect egr solenoid vacuum line at brake
booster check valve.
(25) Disconnect fuel injector, cam sensor, boost
pressure/intake air temp sensor, fuel rail high pres-
sure, and egr solenoid connectors (Fig. 8).
(26) Disconnect generator electrical connectors.
(27) Disconnect coolant temp sensor and glow plug
electrical connectors.
(28) Disconnect injection pump and A/C compres-
sor electrical connectors.
(29) Disconnect starter electrical connectors.
(30) Disconnect ground wires at engine block.
(31) Raise vehicle on hoist.
(32) Disconnect oil temp sensor, oil pressure sen-
sor, engine speed sensor, and vehicle speed sensor
electrical connector (Fig. 9).(33) Remove front wheels.
(34) Remove the suspension cradle assembly (Refer
to 13 - FRAME & BUMPERS/FRAME/ENGINE
CRADLE CROSSMEMBER - REMOVAL).
(35) Remove both axle shaft assemblies (Refer to 3
- DIFFERENTIAL & DRIVELINE/HALF SHAFT -
REMOVAL).
(36) Disconnect the clutch slave cylinder quick dis-
connect line (RHD only)(Refer to 6 - CLUTCH/SLAVE
CYLINDER - REMOVAL).
(37) Disconnect reverse lamp connector.
(38) Disconnect shifter cables at the tranmission
(Refer to 21 - TRANSMISSION/TRANSAXLE/MAN-
UAL/GEAR SHIFT CABLE - REMOVAL).
(39) Disconnect exhaust pipe from the turbo-
charger downpipe and reposition to right side of vehi-
cle.
(40) Disconnect cabin heater coolant line (Refer to
24 - HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/CABIN
HEATER/HEATER UNIT - REMOVAL).
(41) Remove front engine mount bracket retaining
bolts from lower radiator support
(42) Lower vehicle. Evacuate the A/C system
(Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/
Fig. 6 CHARGE AIR COOLER HOSES
1 - COOLING MODULE
2 - BYPASS HOSE
3 - UPPER RADIATOR HOSE
4 - CHARGE AIR COOLER OULET HOSE
5 - CHARGE AIR COOLER INLET HOSE
6 - LOWER RADIATOR HOSE
7 - CHARGE AIR COOLER
Fig. 7 UPPER AND LOWER RADIATOR HOSES
1 - COOLANT BYPASS HOSE
2 - RADIATOR ASSEMBLY
3 - UPPER RADIATOR HOSE
4 - COOLING FAN
5 - LOWER RADIATOR HOSE
6 - CHARGE AIR COOLER
7 - RADIATOR BRACKET
RGENGINE9a-5
ENGINE 2.5L TURBO DIESEL (Continued)
ProCarManuals.com

INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - 2.5L TURBO DIESEL ENGINE
(1) Reassembly engine and transmission assembly
and install on engine cradle.
(2) Position engine and cradle assembly under
vehicle.
(3) Slowly lower the vehicle down over the engine
and cradle assembly.
(4) Install right engine mount bolts. Torque to
54N´m (40 ft. lbs.)
(5) Install left engine mount through bolt. Torque
to 75N´m (55 ft. lbs.)
(6) Raise vehicle and engine from engine cradle.
(7) Attach front engine mount bracket to lower
radiator support. Torque to 54N´m (40 ft. lbs.)
(8) Connect cabin heater coolant hose.
(9) Connect exhaust pipe to the turbocharger
downpipe flange. Torque to 28 N´m (250 in. lbs.)
(10) Connect reverse lamp electrical connector at
transmission.
(11) Connect both shifter cables (Refer to 21 -
TRANSMISSION/TRANSAXLE/MANUAL/GEAR
SHIFT CABLE - INSTALLATION).
(12) Connect the clutch slave cylinder quick dis-
connect connector (RHD only)(Refer to 6 - CLUTCH/
SLAVE CYLINDER - INSTALLATION).
(13) Install engine harness into bracket on trans-
mission.
(14) Lower vehicle.
(15) Connect fuel supply and return lines.
(16) Connect A/C lines to A/C compressor. Torque
to 23N´m (17 ft. lbs.)
(17) Route engine wiring harnes to proper location.
(18) Connect engine harness ground cables to
engine block
(19) Connect starter solenoid electrical connector
and battery feed wire to starter. Torque to 10N´m (90
in. lbs.)
(20) Connect A/C compressor, injection pump, glow
plugs, and coolant temperature sensor electrical con-
nectors.
(21) Connect generator electrical connector. Torque
to 9N´m (75 in. lbs.)
(22) Connect the fuel injector, fuel pressure sensor,
boost pressure/intake air temp sensor, cam sensor,
and egr solenoid electrical connectors (Fig. 8).
(23) Connect egr solenoid vacuum supply line to
brake boost vacuum supply line.(24) Connect brake booster vacuum supply line.
(25) Connect heater core return hose to coolant
pipe.
(26) Connect lower radiator hose to engine (Fig. 7).
(27) Install charger air cooler inlet hose (Fig. 6).
(28) Install charge air cooler outlet hose (Fig. 6).
(29) Connect upper radiator hose to engine (Fig.
7).
(30) Install battery shield.
(31) Install coolant reserve pressure container
(Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/COOLANT RECOV-
ERY PRESS CONTAINER - INSTALLATION).
(32) Install power steering reservoir and bracket
(Fig. 4).
(33) Raise vehicle
(34) Connect oil pressure sensor, oil temperature
sensor, engine speed sensor, and vehicle speed sensor
electrical connector (Fig. 9).
(35) Install suspension cradle in vehicle (Refer to
13 - FRAME & BUMPERS/FRAME/ENGINE CRA-
DLE CROSSMEMBER - INSTALLATION).
(36) Install both axle shaft assemblies (Refer to 3 -
DIFFERENTIAL & DRIVELINE/HALF SHAFT -
INSTALLATION).
(37) Connect the power steering supply, pressure,
and return lines to power steering pump (Fig. 4).
(38) Install the power steering line brackets on oil
pan (Fig. 4).
(39) Install lower splash shield and side panels.
(40) Install both front wheel and tire assemblies.
(41) Lower vehicle.
(42) Install air cleaner housing, MAF sensor, and
air intake tube assembly (Fig. 3).
(43) Refill transmission to proper level (Refer to 21
- TRANSMISSION/TRANSAXLE/MANUAL/FLUID -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(44) Refill engine coolant (Refer to 7 - COOLING/
ENGINE/COOLANT - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(45) Recharge A/C system (Refer to 24 - HEATING
& AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING/REFRIGER-
ANT - STANDARD PROCEDURE) .
(46) Install engine cover (Refer to 9 - ENGINE -
INSTALLATION) (Fig. 2).
(47) Connect negative battery cable.
INSTALLATION - ENGINE COVER
(1) Install engine cover on engine.
(2) Install the engine cover mounting bolts (Fig.
10).
RGENGINE9a-7
ENGINE 2.5L TURBO DIESEL (Continued)
ProCarManuals.com