2002 CHEVROLET SILVERADO tires

4-45 Driving on Snow or Ice
Most of the time, those places where your tires meet the
road probably have good traction.
However, if there is snow or ice between your tires and
the road, you can have a very slippery situation. You'll
have a lot less traction or ªgripº and will need to be
very careful.
What's the worst time for this? ªWet ice.º Very cold
snow or ice can be slick and hard to drive on. But wet
ice can be even more trouble because it may offer the
least traction of all. You can get wet ice when it's about
freezing (32
F; 0
C) and freezing rain begins to fall.
Try to avoid driving on wet ice until salt and sand crews
can get there.
Whatever the condition
-- smooth ice, packed, blowing
or loose snow
-- drive with caution.
Accelerate gently. Try not to break the fragile traction.
If you accelerate too fast, the drive wheels will spin and
polish the surface under the tires even more.
If you have traction assist, keep the system on. It will
improve your ability to accelerate when driving on a
slippery road. But you can turn the traction system off if
you ever need to. You should turn the system off if your
vehicle ever gets stuck in sand, mud, ice or snow. See
ªRocking Your Vehicleº in the Index. Even though your
vehicle has a traction system, you'll want to slow down
and adjust your driving to the road conditions. See
ªTraction Assist Systemº in the Index.

4-46
If you don't have a traction system, accelerate gently.
Try not to break the gentle traction. If you accelerate too
fast, the drive wheels will spin and polish the surface
under the tires even more.
Your anti
-lock brakes improve your vehicle's stability
when you make a hard stop on a slippery road. Even
though you have an anti
-lock braking system, you'll
want to begin stopping sooner than you would on dry
pavement. See ªAnti
-Lockº in the Index.

Allow greater following distance on any
slippery road.

Watch for slippery spots. The road might be fine
until you hit a spot that's covered with ice. On an
otherwise clear road, ice patches may appear in
shaded areas where the sun can't reach: around
clumps of trees, behind buildings or under bridges.
Sometimes the surface of a curve or an overpass may
remain icy when the surrounding roads are clear. If
you see a patch of ice ahead of you, brake before you
are on it. Try not to brake while you're actually on
the ice, and avoid sudden steering maneuvers.
If You're Caught in a Blizzard
If you are stopped by heavy snow, you could be in a
serious situation. You should probably stay with your
vehicle unless you know for sure that you are near help
and you can hike through the snow. Here are some
things to do to summon help and keep yourself and your
passengers safe:

Turn on your hazard flashers.

4-52
Loading Your Vehicle
The Certification/Tire label is found on the rear edge of
the driver's door or in the Incomplete Vehicle Document
in the cab.
The label shows the size of your original tires and the
inflation pressures needed to obtain the gross weight
capacity of your vehicle. This is called the GVWR
(Gross Vehicle Weight Rating). The GVWR includes the
weight of the vehicle, all occupants, fuel and cargo.The Certification/Tire label also tells you the maximum
weights for the front and rear axles, called Gross Axle
Weight Rating (GAWR). To find out the actual loads
on your front and rear axles, you need to go to a weigh
station and weigh your vehicle. Your dealer can help
you with this. Be sure to spread out your load equally
on both sides of the centerline.
Never exceed the GVWR for your vehicle, or the
GAWR for either the front or rear axle.
The Certification/Tire label also contains information
about your Front Axle Reserve Capacity. See ªFront
Axle Reserve Capacityº later in this section.
And, if you do have a heavy load, you should spread
it out.CAUTION:
In the case of a sudden stop or collision, things
carried in the bed of your truck could shift
forward and come into the passenger area,
injuring you and others. If you put things in the
bed of your truck, you should make sure they are
properly secured.

4-64 If You Do Decide To Pull A Trailer
If you do, here are some important points:

There are many different laws, including speed limit
restrictions, having to do with trailering. Make sure
your rig will be legal, not only where you live but
also where you'll be driving. A good source for this
information can be state or provincial police.

Consider using a sway control if your trailer will
weigh less than 5,000 lbs. (2 270 kg) for light duty
vehicles, or less than 7,500 lbs. (3 405 kg) for heavy
duty vehicles. You should always use a sway control
if your trailer will weigh more than these limits.
You can ask a hitch dealer about sway controls.

Don't tow a trailer at all during the first 500 miles
(800 km) your new vehicle is driven. Your engine,
axle or other parts could be damaged.
Then, during the first 500 miles (800 km) that you
tow a trailer, don't drive over 50 mph (80 km/h) and
don't make starts at full throttle. This helps your
engine and other parts of your vehicle wear in at the
heavier loads.

If you have an automatic transmission, you can
tow in DRIVE (D). You may want to shift the
transmission to THIRD (3) or, if necessary, a lower
gear selection if the transmission shifts too often
(e.g., under heavy loads and/or hilly conditions).
If you have a manual transmission and you are
towing a trailer, it's better not to use the highest gear.
See ªTow/Haul Modeº in the Index.
Three important considerations have to do with weight:

the weight of the trailer,

the weight of the trailer tongue

and the weight on your vehicle's tires.

4-85 Total Weight on Your Vehicle's Tires
Be sure your vehicle's tires are inflated to the upper
limit for cold tires. You'll find these numbers on the
Certification label at the rear edge of the driver's door or
see ªTire Loadingº in the Index. Then be sure you
don't go over the GVW limit for your vehicle, including
the weight of the trailer tongue.
Hitches
It's important to have the correct hitch equipment.
Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough roads are
a few reasons why you'll need the right hitch. Here are
some rules to follow:

If you use a step
-bumper hitch, your bumper could
be damaged in sharp turns. Make sure you have
ample room when turning to avoid contact between
the trailer and the bumper.

If you'll be pulling a trailer that, when loaded, will
weigh more than the capacity stamped on your step
bumper, be sure to use a properly mounted,
weight
-distributing hitch and sway control of the
proper size. This equipment is very important for
proper vehicle loading and good handling when
you're driving.
Safety Chains
You should always attach chains between your vehicle
and your trailer. Cross the safety chains under the tongue
of the trailer to help prevent the tongue from contacting
the road if it becomes separated from the hitch.
Instructions about safety chains may be provided by
the hitch manufacturer or by the trailer manufacturer.
For trailers up to 5,000 lbs. (2 270 kg) you may attach
the safety chains to the attaching points on the bumper.
For heavier trailers, follow the trailer or hitch
manufacturer's recommendation for attaching safety
chains. Always leave just enough slack so you can
turn with your rig. Never allow safety chains to drag
on the ground.

4-86 Trailer Brakes
If your trailer weighs more than 2,000 lbs. (900 kg)
loaded, then it needs its own brakes
-- and they must be
adequate. Be sure to read and follow the instructions for
the trailer brakes so you'll be able to install, adjust and
maintain them properly.
Your trailer brake system can tap into the vehicle's
hydraulic brake system only if:

The trailer parts can withstand 3,000 psi
(20 650 kPa) of pressure.

The trailer's brake system will use less than
0.02 cubic inch (0.3 cc) of fluid from your vehicle's
master cylinder. Otherwise, both braking systems
won't work well. You could even lose your brakes.
If everything checks out this far, make the brake tap
at the port on the master cylinder that sends the fluid
to the rear brakes. But don't use copper tubing for this.
If you do, it will bend and finally break off. Use steel
brake tubing.
Driving with a Trailer
Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience.
Before setting out for the open road, you'll want to get
to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of
handling and braking with the added weight of the
trailer. And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are
driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly as
responsive as your vehicle is by itself.
Before you start, check the trailer hitch and platform
(and attachments), safety chains, electrical connector,
lamps, tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has
electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and
then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure
the brakes are working. This lets you check your
electrical connection at the same time.
During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the
load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer brakes
are still working.
While towing a trailer or when exposed to long periods
of sunshine, the floor of the truck bed may become very
warm. Avoid putting items in the truck bed that might be
affected by high ambient temperatures.

5-20
Engine Fan Noise
Your vehicle has a clutched engine cooling fan. When
the clutch is engaged, the fan spins faster to provide
more air to cool the engine. In most everyday driving
conditions, the fan is spinning slower and the clutch is
not fully engaged. This improves fuel economy and
reduces fan noise. Under heavy vehicle loading, trailer
towing and/or high outside temperatures, the fan speed
increases as the clutch more fully engages. So you may
hear an increase in fan noise. This is normal and should
not be mistaken as the transmission slipping or making
extra shifts. It is merely the cooling system functioning
properly. The fan will slow down when additional
cooling is not required and the clutch disengages.
You may also hear this fan noise when you start
the engine. It will go away as the fan clutch
partially disengages.
If a Tire Goes Flat
It's unusual for a tire to ªblow outº while you're driving,
especially if you maintain your tires properly. If air goes
out of a tire, it's much more likely to leak out slowly.
But if you should ever have a ªblowout,º here are a few
tips about what to expect and what to do:
If a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a drag that
pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the
accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly.
Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to
a stop well out of the traffic lane.
A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a
skid and may require the same correction you'd use in a
skid. In any rear blowout, remove your foot from the
accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by
steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be
very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently
brake to a stop
-- well off the road if possible.
If a tire goes flat, the next part shows how to use your
jacking equipment to change a flat tire safely.

5-36
6. Make sure the tire is stored securely. Push, pull, and
then try to rotate or turn the tire. If the tire moves,
use the wheel wrench/hoist shaft to tighten the cable.
Put back the jack, tools and spare tire lock.
If You're Stuck: In Sand, Mud,
Ice or Snow
In order to free your vehicle when it is stuck, you will
need to spin the wheels, but you don't want to spin
your wheels too fast. The method known as ªrockingº
can help you get out when you're stuck, but you must
use caution.
CAUTION:
If you let your tires spin at high speed, they can
explode, and you or others could be injured. And,
the transmission or other parts of the vehicle can
overheat. That could cause an engine
compartment fire or other damage. When you're
stuck, spin the wheels as little as possible. Don't
spin the wheels above 35 mph (55 km/h) as shown
on the speedometer.