Page 155 of 331

4-23
If you drive regularly in steep country, or if you're
planning to visit there, here are some tips that can make
your trips safer and more enjoyable.
Keep your vehicle in good shape. Check all fluid
levels and also the brakes, tires, cooling system
and transmission. These parts can work hard on
mountain roads.
Know how to go down hills. The most important
thing to know is this: let your engine do some of the
slowing down. Shift to a lower gear when you go
down a steep or long hill.
CAUTION:
If you don't shift down, your brakes could get so
hot that they wouldn't work well. You would then
have poor braking or even none going down a hill.
You could crash. Shift down to let your engine
assist your brakes on a steep downhill slope.
CAUTION:
Coasting downhill in NEUTRAL (N) or with the
ignition off is dangerous. Your brakes will have to
do all the work of slowing down. They could get so
hot that they wouldn't work well. You would then
have poor braking or even none going down a hill.
You could crash. Always have your engine running
and your vehicle in gear when you go downhill.
Know how to go uphill. You may want to shift down to
a lower gear. The lower gears help cool your engine and
transmission, and you can climb the hill better.
Stay in your own lane when driving on two
-lane
roads in hills or mountains. Don't swing wide or cut
across the center of the road. Drive at speeds that let
you stay in your own lane.
As you go over the top of a hill, be alert. There could be
something in your lane, like a stalled car or an accident.
You may see highway signs on mountains that warn of
special problems. Examples are long grades, passing or
no
-passing zones, a falling rocks area or winding
roads. Be alert to these and take appropriate action.
Page 166 of 331

4-34 Trailer Brakes
If your trailer weighs more than 1,000 lbs. (450 kg)
loaded, then it needs its own brakes
-- and they must be
adequate. Be sure to read and follow the instructions for
the trailer brakes so you'll be able to install, adjust and
maintain them properly.
Your trailer brake system can tap into the vehicle's
hydraulic brake system only if:
The trailer parts can withstand 3,000 psi
(20 650 kPa) of pressure.
The trailer's brake system will use less than
0.02 cubic inch (0.3 cc) of fluid from your
vehicle's master cylinder. Otherwise, both braking
systems won't work well. You could even lose
your brakes.
If everything checks out this far, make the brake tap at
the port on the master cylinder that sends the fluid to
the rear brakes. But don't use copper tubing for this.
If you do, it will bend and finally break off. Use steel
brake tubing.
Driving with a Trailer
Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience.
Before setting out for the open road, you'll want to
get to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of
handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer.
And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are driving
is now a good deal longer and not nearly as responsive as
your vehicle is by itself.
Before you start, check the trailer hitch and platform
(and attachments), safety chains, electrical connector,
lamps, tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has
electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving
and then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to
be sure the brakes are working. This lets you check
your electrical connection at the same time.
During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the
load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer brakes
are still working.
Following Distance
Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as
you would when driving your vehicle without a trailer.
This can help you avoid situations that require heavy
braking and sudden turns.
Page 169 of 331

4-37 When You Are Ready to Leave After
Parking on a Hill
1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down
while you:
start your engine,
shift into a gear, and
release the parking brake.
2. Let up on the brake pedal.
3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks.
4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the chocks.
Maintenance When Trailer Towing
Your vehicle will need service more often when you're
pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance Schedule for
more on this. Things that are especially important
in trailer operation are automatic transmission fluid
(don't overfill), engine oil, axle lubricant, belts, cooling
system and brake system. Each of these is covered in
this manual, and the Index will help you find them
quickly. If you're trailering, it's a good idea to review
these sections before you start your trip.
Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts
are tight.
Trailer Wiring Harness
Power Winches
If you wish to use a power winch on your vehicle,
only use it when your vehicle is stationary or anchored.
NOTICE:
Using a power winch with the transmission in gear
may damage the transmission. When operating
a power winch, always leave the transmission
in NEUTRAL (N).
Use the regular brakes, set the parking brake, or block
the wheels to keep your vehicle from rolling.
Page 196 of 331

6-
6-1
Section 6 Service and Appearance Care
Here you will find information about the care of your vehicle. This section begins with service and fuel information,
and then it shows how to check important fluid and lubricant levels. There is also technical information about your
vehicle, and a part devoted to its appearance care.
6
-2 Service
6
-3 Fuel (Gasoline Engine)
6
-5 Fuels in Foreign Countries (Gasoline Engines)
6
-5 Filling Your Tank (Gasoline Engine)
6
-7 Filling a Portable Fuel Container
6
-7 Checking Things Under the Hood
6
-10 Noise Control System
6
-11 Engine Oil (Gasoline Engine)
6
-15 Engine Air Cleaner/Filter (Gasoline Engines)
6
-17 Automatic Transmission Fluid
6
-20 Manual Transmission Fluid
6
-22 Hydraulic Clutch
6
-23 Rear Axle
6
-24 Engine Coolant
6
-27 Radiator Pressure Cap (Gasoline Engine)
6
-28 Power Steering Fluid6
-29 Windshield Washer Fluid
6
-30 Brakes
6
-34 Battery
6
-35 Bulb Replacement
6
-39 Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement
6
-40 Tires
6
-50 Appearance Care
6
-51 Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle
6
-54 Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle
6
-58 GM Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials
6
-59 Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)
6
-60 Electrical System
6
-66 Replacement Bulbs
6
-66 Capacities and Specifications
6
-68 Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts
Page 202 of 331

6-7
Filling a Portable Fuel Container
CAUTION:
Never fill a portable fuel container while it is in
your vehicle. Static electricity discharge from the
container can ignite the gasoline vapor. You can
be badly burned and your vehicle damaged if this
occurs. To help avoid injury to you and others:
Dispense gasoline only into approved
containers.
Do not fill a container while it is inside a
vehicle, in a vehicle's trunk, pickup bed
or on any surface other than the ground.
Bring the fill nozzle in contact with the
inside of the fill opening before operating
the nozzle. Contact should be maintained
until the filling is complete.
Don't smoke while pumping gasoline.
Checking Things Under the Hood
CAUTION:
If your vehicle has air conditioning, the auxiliary
engine fan under the hood can start up and
injure you even when the engine is not running.
Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any
underhood electric fan.
CAUTION:
Things that burn can get on hot engine parts and
start a fire. These include liquids like fuel, oil,
coolant, brake fluid, windshield washer and other
fluids, and plastic or rubber. You or others could
be burned. Be careful not to drop or spill things
that will burn onto a hot engine.
Page 204 of 331
6-9 Engine Compartment Overview
When you open the hood you will see the following:
A. Battery
B. Air Filter Restriction Indicator
C. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter
D. Coolant Recovery Tank
E. Radiator Pressure CapF. Engine Oil Dipstick
G. Automatic Transmission Dipstick
(If Equipped)
H. Engine Oil Fill
I. Engine Cooling FanJ. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir
K. Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir
L. Clutch Master Cylinder Reservoir
M. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir
N. Underhood Fuse/Block
Page 214 of 331

6-19
Checking the Fluid Level
Prepare your vehicle as follows:
Park your vehicle on a level place. Keep the
engine running.
With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever
in PARK (P).
With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift
lever through each gear range, pausing for about
three seconds in each range. Then, position the shift
lever in PARK (P).
Let the engine run at idle for three minutes or more.
Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps:The red transmission dipstick handle is located at the
rear of the engine compartment, on the passenger's side.
See ªEngine Compartment Overviewº in the Index for
more information on location.
1. Flip the handle up and then pull out the dipstick and
wipe it with a clean rag or paper towel.
2. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds and
then pull it back out again.
3. Check both sides of the dipstick and read the lower
level. The fluid level must be in the COLD area,
below the cross
-hatched area, for a cold check or in
the HOT area or cross
-hatched area for a hot check.
4. If the fluid level is in the acceptable range, push the
dipstick back in all the way; then flip the handle
down to lock the dipstick in place.
Page 225 of 331
6-30
Brakes
Brake Fluid
Your brake master cylinder reservoir is filled with
DOT
-3 brake fluid. See ªEngine Compartment
Overviewº in the Index for the location of the reservoir.There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level
in the reservoir might go down. The first is that the
brake fluid goes down to an acceptable level during
normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in,
the fluid level goes back up. The other reason is
that fluid is leaking out of the brake system. If it is,
you should have your brake system fixed, since a leak
means that sooner or later your brakes won't work well,
or won't work at all.
So, it isn't a good idea to ªtop offº your brake fluid.
Adding brake fluid won't correct a leak. If you add fluid
when your linings are worn, then you'll have too much
fluid when you get new brake linings. You should add
(or remove) brake fluid, as necessary, only when work is
done on the brake hydraulic system.