2001 DODGE TOWN AND COUNTRY light

(6) The half shaft is spring loaded. Compress inner
half shaft joint slightly and pull downward to clear
rear differential output flange. Then pull half shaft
assembly outward to remove (Fig. 3).
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the outer CV joint stub shaft through
the hub bearing (Fig. 4).
(2) The half shaft is spring loaded. Compress inner
half shaft joint slightly and push upward until the
inner CV joint flange engages the rear differential
output flange.(3) Install the inner half shaft retaining bolts (Fig.
5). Torque the bolts to 61 N´m (45 ft.lbs.).
(4) Install the half shaft washer and hub nut.
Torque the hub nut to 244 N´m (180 ft.lbs.).
(5) Install the wave washer, nut lock, and a new
cotter pin (Fig. 6). Be sure to wrap the cotter pin
prongs tightly around the hub nut lock.
(6) Install rear wheel. Torque the lug nuts to 135
N´m (100 ft.lbs.).
Fig. 1 Cotter Pin, Nut Lock, And Wave Washer
1 - HUB NUT
2 - NUT LOCK
3 - COTTER PIN
4 - WAVE WASHER
Fig. 2 Inner Half Shaft Bolts
1 - SHAFT
2 - FLANGE
Fig. 3 Half Shaft Removal
1 - BRAKE BACKING PLATE
2 - HALF SHAFT
Fig. 4 Half Shaft Installation
1 - BRAKE BACKING PLATE
2 - HALF SHAFT
RSHALF SHAFT - REAR3-17
HALF SHAFT - REAR (Continued)
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²Tires
²Road surfaces
²Wheel bearings
²Engine
²Transmission
²Exhaust
²Propeller shaft (vibration)
²Vehicle body (drumming)
Driveline module noises are normally divided into
two categories: gear noise or bearing noise. A thor-
ough and careful inspection should be completed to
determine the actual source of the noise before
replacing the driveline module.
The rubber mounting bushings help to dampen-out
driveline module noise when properly installed.
Inspect to confirm that no metal contact exists
between the driveline module case and the body. The
complete isolation of noise to one area requires
expertise and experience. Identifying certain types of
vehicle noise baffles even the most capable techni-
cians. Often such practices as:
²Increase tire inflation pressure to eliminate tire
noise.
²Listen for noise at varying speeds with different
driveline load conditions
²Swerving the vehicle from left to right to detect
wheel bearing noise.
All driveline module assemblies produce noise to a
certain extent. Slight carrier noise that is noticeable
only at certain speeds or isolated situations should be
considered normal. Carrier noise tends to peak at a
variety of vehicle speeds. Noise isNOT ALWAYSan
indication of a problem within the carrier.
TIRE NOISE
Tire noise is often mistaken for driveline module
noise. Tires that are unbalanced, worn unevenly or
are worn in a saw-tooth manner are usually noisy.
They often produce a noise that appears to originate
in the driveline module.
Tire noise changes with different road surfaces, but
driveline module noise does not. Inflate all four tires
with approximately 20 psi (138 kPa) more than the
recommended inflation pressure (for test purposes
only). This will alter noise caused by tires, but will
not affect noise caused by the differential. Rear axle
noise usually ceases when coasting at speeds less
than 30 mph (48 km/h); however, tire noise contin-
ues, but at a lower frequency, as the speed is
reduced.
After test has been completed lower tire pressure
back to recommended pressure.
GEAR NOISE (DRIVE PINION AND RING GEAR)
Abnormal gear noise is rare and is usually caused
by scoring on the ring gear and drive pinion. Scoringis the result of insufficient or incorrect lubricant in
the carrier housing.
Abnormal gear noise can be easily recognized. It
produces a cycling tone that will be very pronounced
within a given speed range. The noise can occur dur-
ing one or more of the following drive conditions:
²Drive
²Road load
²Float
²Coast
Abnormal gear noise usually tends to peak within
a narrow vehicle speed range or ranges. It is usually
more pronounced between 30 to 40 mph (48 to 64
km/h) and 50 to 60 mph (80 to 96 km/h). When objec-
tionable gear noise occurs, note the driving condi-
tions and the speed range.
BEARING NOISE (DRIVE PINION AND
DIFFERENTIAL)
Defective bearings produce a rough growl that is
constant in pitch and varies with the speed of vehi-
cle. Being aware of this will enable a technician to
separate bearing noise from gear noise.
Drive pinion bearing noise that results from defec-
tive or damaged bearings can usually be identified by
its constant, rough sound. Drive pinion front bearing
is usually more pronounced during a coast condition.
Drive pinion rear bearing noise is more pronounced
during a drive condition. The drive pinion bearings
are rotating at a higher rate of speed than either the
differential side bearings or the axle shaft bearing.
Differential side bearing noise will usually produce
a constant, rough sound. The sound is much lower in
frequency than the noise caused by drive pinion bear-
ings.
Bearing noise can best be detected by road testing
the vehicle on a smooth road (black top). However, it
is easy to mistake tire noise for bearing noise. If a
doubt exists, the tire treads should be examined for
irregularities that often causes a noise that resem-
bles bearing noise.
ENGINE AND TRANSMISSION NOISE
Sometimes noise that appears to be in the driv-
eline module assembly is actually caused by the
engine or the transmission. To identify the true
source of the noise, note the approximate vehicle
speed and/or RPM when the noise is most noticeable.
Stop the vehicle next to a flat brick or cement wall
(this will help reflect the sound). Place the transaxle
inNEUTRAL. Accelerate the engine slowly up
through the engine speed that matches the vehicle
speed noted when the noise occurred. If the same
noise is produced, it usually indicates that the noise
is being caused by the engine or transaxle.
3 - 28 REAR DRIVELINE MODULERS
REAR DRIVELINE MODULE (Continued)
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JUNCTION BLOCK
DESCRIPTION...........................32
OPERATION.............................32
REMOVAL..............................32
INSTALLATION...........................33
MASTER CYLINDER
DESCRIPTION...........................33
OPERATION.............................34
STANDARD PROCEDURE..................34
MASTER CYLINDER BLEEDING...........34
REMOVAL..............................34
DISASSEMBLY...........................35
ASSEMBLY.............................36
INSTALLATION...........................36
POWER BRAKE BOOSTER
DESCRIPTION...........................37
OPERATION.............................37
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING.................38
POWER BRAKE BOOSTER...............38
REMOVAL..............................38
INSTALLATION...........................40
PROPORTIONING VALVE
DESCRIPTION...........................41
OPERATION.............................42
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING.................42
PROPORTIONING VALVE (HEIGHT
SENSING).............................42
REMOVAL..............................43
INSTALLATION...........................43
ROTORS
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING.................44BRAKE ROTOR........................44
STANDARD PROCEDURE..................47
BRAKE ROTOR MACHINING..............47
REMOVAL..............................48
INSTALLATION...........................48
SUPPORT PLATE - DRUM BRAKE
REMOVAL..............................48
INSTALLATION...........................49
WHEEL CYLINDERS
REMOVAL..............................50
INSPECTION............................50
INSTALLATION...........................50
PARKING BRAKE
DESCRIPTION...........................50
OPERATION.............................51
STANDARD PROCEDURE..................51
PARKING BRAKE AUTOMATIC ADJUSTER
MECHANISM RELEASE..................51
PARKING BRAKE AUTOMATIC ADJUSTER
RESET...............................51
LEVER - PARKING BRAKE
REMOVAL..............................52
INSTALLATION...........................53
SHOES - PARKING BRAKE
REMOVAL..............................53
INSTALLATION...........................58
ADJUSTMENTS..........................59
CABLES - PARKING BRAKE
REMOVAL..............................61
INSTALLATION...........................65
ADJUSTMENTS..........................66
BRAKES - BASE
DESCRIPTION - BASE BRAKES
The base brake system consists of the following
components:
²Brake pedal
²Power brake booster
²Master cylinder
²Brake tubes and hoses
²Proportioning valve (non-ABS vehicles only)
²Disc brakes
²Drum brakes
²Brake lamp switch
²Brake fluid level switch
²Parking brakes
Front disc brakes control the braking of the front
wheels; rear braking is controlled by rear drum
brakes or rear disc brakes depending on options.
The hydraulic brake system is diagonally split on
both the non-antilock braking systems and antilock
braking systems. That means the left front and right
rear brakes are on one hydraulic circuit and the right
front and left rear are on the other.For information on the brake lamp switch, (Refer
to 8 - ELECTRICAL/LAMPS/LIGHTING - EXTERI-
OR/BRAKE LAMP SWITCH - DESCRIPTION)
Vehicles equipped with the optional antilock brake
system (ABS) use a system designated Mark 20e. It
is available with or without traction control. This
system shares most base brake hardware used on
vehicles without ABS. ABS components are described
in detail in ANTILOCK BRAKE SYSTEM.
OPERATION - BASE BRAKES
When a vehicle needs to be stopped, the driver
applies the brake pedal. The brake pedal pushes the
input rod of the power brake booster into the booster.
The booster uses vacuum to ease pedal effort as force
is transferred through the booster to the master cyl-
inder. The booster's output rod pushes in the master
cylinder's primary and secondary pistons applying
hydraulic pressure through the chassis brake tubes
to the brakes at each tire and wheel assembly.
The parking brakes are foot-operated. When
applied, the parking brake lever pulls on cables that
actuate brake shoes at each rear wheel. These shoes
come in contact with a hub mounted drum (drum for
5 - 2 BRAKES - BASERS
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RED BRAKE WARNING INDICATOR LAMP
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
RED BRAKE WARNING
LAMP ON1. Parking brake lever not fully
released.1. Release parking brake lever.
2. Parking brake warning lamp
switch on parking brake lever.2. Inspect and replace switch as necessary.
3. Brake fluid level low in reservoir. 3. Fill reservoir. Check entire system for
leaks. Repair or replace as required.
4. Brake fluid level switch. 4. Disconnect switch wiring connector. If
lamp goes out, replace switch.
5. Mechanical instrument cluster
(MIC) problem.5. Refer to appropriate Diagnostic
information.
6. Amber ABS Warning Indicator
Lamp also illuminated.6. Refer to appropriate Diagnostic
information.
BRAKE NOISE
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
CLICK OR SQUAWK ON
PEDAL APPLICATION1. Brake lamp switch. 1. Replace switch.
2. Brake Transmission Shift Interlock
Linkage.2. Lubricate BTSI linkage.
3. Pedal pivot bushings 3. Lubricate pivot bushings. Replace if
necessary.
DISC BRAKE CHIRP 1. Excessive brake rotor runout. 1. Follow brake rotor diagnosis and testing.
Correct as necessary.
2. Lack of lubricant on brake caliper
slides.2. Lubricate brake caliper slides.
3. Caliper/shoes not fully seated. 3. Reseat caliper/shoes.
DISC BRAKE RATTLE OR
CLUNK1. Broken or missing anti-rattle
spring clips on shoes.1. Replace brake shoes.
2. Caliper guide pins/bolts loose. 2. Tighten guide pins/bolts.
DISC BRAKE SQUEAK AT
LOW SPEED (WHILE
APPLYING LIGHT BRAKE
PEDAL EFFORT)1. Brake shoe linings. 1. Replace brake shoes.
DRUM BRAKE CHIRP 1. Lack of lubricant on brake shoe
support plate where shoes ride.1. Lubricate shoe contact areas on brake
shoe support plates.
DRUM BRAKE CLUNK 1. Drum(s) have threaded machined
braking surface.1. Reface or replace drake drums as
necessary.
DRUM BRAKE HOWL OR
MOAN1. Lack of lubricant on brake shoe
support plate where shoes ride and
at the anchor.1. Lubricate shoe contact areas on brake
shoe support plates and at the anchor.
2. Rear brake shoes. 2. Replace rear brake shoes.
DRUM BRAKE SCRAPING
OR WHIRRING1. ABS wheel speed sensor or tone
wheel.1. Inspect, correct or replace faulty
component(s).
5 - 4 BRAKES - BASERS
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)
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(20) Road test vehicle. The automatic adjuster will
continue the brake adjustment during the road test
of the vehicle.
ADJUSTMENT - REAR DRUM BRAKE SHOES
NOTE: Normally, self-adjusting drum brakes do not
require manual brake shoe adjustment. Although, in
the event of a brake shoe replacement, it is advis-
able to make the initial adjustment manually to
speed up the adjusting time.
NOTE: Before raising the vehicle, verify the parking
brake lever is fully released.
(1) Raise the vehicle. (Refer to LUBRICATION &
MAINTENANCE/HOISTING - STANDARD PROCE-
DURE).
(2) Remove rubber plug from rear brake adjusting
hole in the rear brake support plate.
(3) Insert a thin screwdriver through the adjusting
hole in the support plate and against the star wheel
of the adjusting screw. Move handle of the tool
upward rotating the star wheel until a slight drag is
felt when tire and wheel assembly is rotated.
(4) Insert a second thin screwdriver or piece of
welding rod into brake adjusting hole and push the
adjusting lever out of engagement with the star
wheel.Care should be taken so as not to bend
adjusting lever or distort lever spring.
(5) While holding the adjusting lever out of
engagement, back off the star wheel just enough to
ensure a free wheel with no brake shoe drag.
(6) Repeat the above adjustment at the other rear
wheel.
(7) Install the adjusting hole rubber plugs back in
the rear brake support plates.
(8) Lower the vehicle.
DISC BRAKE CALIPERS -
FRONT
REMOVAL - FRONT DISC BRAKE CALIPER
(DISC/DISC BRAKES)
(1) Depress the brake pedal past its first inch of
travel and hold it in this position using a brake pedal
depressor (holding) tool. This is done to isolate the
master cylinder from the brake hydraulic system dis-
allowing the brake fluid to completely drain out of
the brake fluid reservoir.
(2) Raise the vehicle. (Refer to LUBRICATION &
MAINTENANCE/HOISTING - STANDARD PROCE-
DURE).
(3) Remove front wheel and tire assembly.(4) Remove the banjo bolt connecting the brake
hose to the brake caliper. There are two washers (one
on each side of the brake hose fitting) that will come
off with the banjo bolt. Discard these washers.
(5) Remove the 2 caliper guide pin bolts.
(6) Remove the brake caliper from the adapter.
REMOVAL - FRONT DISC BRAKE CALIPER
(DISC/DRUM BRAKES)
(1) Using a brake pedal holding tool, depress the
brake pedal past its first one inch of travel and hold
it in this position. This will isolate the master cylin-
der from the brake hydraulic system and will not
allow the brake fluid to drain out of the master cyl-
inder reservoir when the lines are opened.
(2) Raise the vehicle. Refer to HOISTING in
LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE.
(3) Remove the front tire and wheel assembly.
(4) Remove the banjo bolt connecting the brake
hose to the brake caliper (Fig. 32). There are two
washers (one on each side of the flex hose fitting)
that will come off with the banjo bolt. Discard the
washers.
(5) Remove the two brake caliper guide pin bolts
(Fig. 32).
(6) Remove the disc brake caliper from the disc
brake adapter.
Fig. 32 Brake Caliper Mounting (Typical)
1 - BRAKE HOSE
2 - ADAPTER MOUNTING BOLTS
3 - BANJO BOLT
4 - CALIPER GUIDE PIN BOLTS
5 - 22 BRAKES - BASERS
BRAKE PADS/SHOES - REAR DRUM (Continued)
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DISASSEMBLY - CALIPER GUIDE PIN
BUSHINGS (DISC/DISC BRAKES)
Before disassembling the brake caliper, clean and
inspect it. Refer to CLEANING or INSPECTION in
this section.
(1) Using your fingers, collapse one side of the rub-
ber guide pin bushing. Pull the guide pin bushing out
the other side of the brake caliper mounting boss.
(2) Repeat this procedure on the remaining bush-
ing.
DISASSEMBLY - CALIPER PISTON AND SEAL
WARNING: UNDER NO CONDITION SHOULD HIGH
PRESSURE AIR EVER BE USED TO REMOVE A PIS-
TON FROM A CALIPER BORE. PERSONAL INJURY
COULD RESULT FROM SUCH A PRACTICE.
NOTE: Before disassembling the brake caliper,
clean and inspect it. Refer to CLEANING AND
INSPECTION in this section.
NOTE: The safest way to remove the piston from
the caliper bore is to use the hydraulic pressure of
the vehicle's brake system.
(1) Following the removal procedure in DISC
BRAKE SHOES found in this section, remove the
caliper from the brake rotor and hang the assembly
on a wire hook away from rotor and body of the vehi-
cle so brake fluid cannot get on these components.
Remove the brake shoes, and place a small piece of
wood between the piston and caliper fingers.
(2) Carefully depress the brake pedal to hydrauli-
cally push piston out of its bore. Once completed,
apply and hold down the brake pedal to any position
beyond the first inch of pedal travel using a brake
pedal holding tool. This will prevent the fluid in the
master cylinder reservoir from completely draining
out.
(3) Disconnect the brake fluid flex hose from the
caliper assembly and remove it from the vehicle.
CAUTION: Do not use excessive force when clamp-
ing caliper in vise. Excessive vise pressure will
cause bore distortion.(4) Mount the caliper in a vise equipped with pro-
tective jaws.
(5) Remove the piston dust boot from the caliper
and discard.
NOTE: Do not use a screw driver or other metal tool
for seal removal. Using such tools can scratch the
bore or leave burrs on the seal groove edges.
(6) Using a soft tool such as a plastic trim stick,
work the piston seal out of its groove in caliper pis-
ton bore (Fig. 33). Discard the old seal.
(7) Clean the piston bore and drilled passage ways
using alcohol or a suitable solvent. Wipe it dry using
only a lint-free cloth.
(8) Inspect the piston bore for scoring or pitting.
Bores that show light scratches or corrosion can usu-
ally be cleared of the light scratches or corrosion
using crocus cloth.
Fig. 33 Removing Piston Seal
1 - PLASTIC TRIM STICK
2 - CALIPER
3 - PISTON SEAL GROOVE
4 - PISTON SEAL
RSBRAKES - BASE5-23
DISC BRAKE CALIPERS - FRONT (Continued)
ProCarManuals.com

DISASSEMBLY - CALIPER PISTON AND SEAL
WARNING: UNDER NO CONDITION SHOULD HIGH
PRESSURE AIR EVER BE USED TO REMOVE A PIS-
TON FROM A CALIPER BORE. PERSONAL INJURY
COULD RESULT FROM SUCH A PRACTICE.
NOTE: Before disassembling the brake caliper,
clean and inspect it. Refer to CLEANING AND
INSPECTION in this section.
NOTE: The safest way to remove the piston from
the caliper bore is to use the hydraulic pressure of
the vehicle's brake system.
(1) Following the removal procedure in DISC
BRAKE SHOES found in this section, remove the
caliper from the brake rotor and hang the assembly
on a wire hook away from rotor and body of the vehi-
cle so brake fluid cannot get on these components.
Remove the brake shoes, and place a small piece of
wood between the piston and caliper fingers.
(2) Carefully depress the brake pedal to hydrauli-
cally push piston out of its bore. Once completed,
apply and hold down the brake pedal to any position
beyond the first inch of pedal travel using a brake
pedal holding tool. This will prevent the fluid in the
master cylinder reservoir from completely draining
out.(3) Disconnect the brake fluid flex hose from the
caliper assembly and remove it from the vehicle.
CAUTION: Do not use excessive force when clamp-
ing caliper in vise. Excessive vise pressure will
cause bore distortion.
(4) Mount the caliper in a vise equipped with pro-
tective jaws.
(5) Remove the piston dust boot from the caliper
and discard.
NOTE: Do not use a screw driver or other metal tool
for seal removal. Using such tools can scratch the
bore or leave burrs on the seal groove edges.
(6) Using a soft tool such as a plastic trim stick,
work the piston seal out of its groove in caliper pis-
ton bore (Fig. 39). Discard the old seal.
(7) Clean the piston bore and drilled passage ways
using alcohol or a suitable solvent. Wipe it dry using
only a lint-free cloth.
(8) Inspect the piston bore for scoring or pitting.
Bores that show light scratches or corrosion can usu-
ally be cleared of the light scratches or corrosion
using crocus cloth.
Fig. 38 Removing/Installing Caliper
1 - LIFT THIS END OF CALIPER AWAY FROM ADAPTER FIRST
2 - DISC BRAKE CALIPER
3 - ADAPTER ABUTMENT
4 - OUTBOARD BRAKE SHOE HOLD DOWN CLIP
5 - OUTBOARD BRAKE SHOE
6 - ROTOR
7 - ADAPTER
Fig. 39 Removing Piston Seal
1 - PLASTIC TRIM STICK
2 - CALIPER
3 - PISTON SEAL GROOVE
4 - PISTON SEAL
RSBRAKES - BASE5-27
DISC BRAKE CALIPERS - REAR (Continued)
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DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - POWER BRAKE
BOOSTER
BASIC TEST
(1) With engine off, depress and release the brake
pedal several times to purge all vacuum from the
power brake booster.
(2) Depress and hold the pedal with light effort (15
to 25 lbs. pressure), then start the engine.
The pedal should fall slightly, then hold. Less effort
should be needed to apply the pedal at this time. If
the pedal fell as indicated, perform the VACUUM
LEAK TEST listed after the BASIC TEST. If the
pedal did not fall, continue on with this BASIC TEST.
(3) Disconnect the vacuum hose on the vacuum
check valve, then place a vacuum gauge in line
between the vacuum hose and the valve.
(4) Start the engine.
(5) When the engine is at warm operating temper-
ature, allow it to idle and check the vacuum at the
gauge.
If the vacuum supply is 12 inches Hg (40.5 kPa) or
more, the power brake booster is defective and must
be replaced. If the vacuum supply is below 12 inches
Hg, continue on with this BASIC TEST.
(6) Shut off the engine.
(7) Connect the vacuum gauge to the vacuum ref-
erence port on the engine intake manifold.
(8) Start the engine and observe the vacuum
gauge.
If the vacuum is still low, check the engine tune
and repair as necessary. If the vacuum is above 12
inches Hg, the hose or check valve to the booster has
a restriction or leak.
Once an adequate vacuum supply is obtained,
repeat the BASIC TEST.
VACUUM LEAK TEST
(1) Disconnect the vacuum hose on the vacuum
check valve, then place a vacuum gauge in line
between the vacuum hose and the valve.
(2) Start the engine.
(3) Allow the engine to warm up to normal operat-
ing temperature and engine idle.
(4) Using vacuum line pliers, close off the vacuum
supply hose near the booster, but before the vacuum
gauge, then observe the vacuum gauge.
If the vacuum drop exceeds 1.0 inch Hg (3.3 kPa)
in one minute, repeat the above steps to confirm the
reading. The vacuum loss should be less than 1.0
inch Hg in one minute time span. If the loss is more
than 1.0 inch Hg, replace the power brake booster. If
it is not, continue on with this test.
(5) Remove the pliers from the hose temporarily.
(6) Apply light effort (approximately 15 lbs. of
force) to the brake pedal and hold the pedal steady.Do not move the pedal once the pressure is applied
or the test results may vary.
(7) Have an assistant reattach the vacuum line
pliers to the vacuum supply hose.
(8) Allow 5 seconds for stabilization, then observe
the vacuum gauge.
If the vacuum drop exceeds 3.0 inches Hg (10 kPa)
in 15 seconds, repeat the above steps to confirm the
reading. The vacuum loss should be less than 3.0
inches Hg in 15 seconds time span. If the loss is
more than 3.0 inches Hg, replace the power brake
booster. If it is not, the booster is not defective.
(9) Remove the pliers and vacuum gauge.
REMOVAL - POWER BRAKE BOOSTER
CAUTION: Reserve vacuum in power brake booster
must be pumped down (removed) before removing
master cylinder from booster. This is necessary to
prevent booster from sucking in any contamination
as master cylinder is removed. This can be done
simply by pumping the brake pedal, with the vehi-
cle's engine not running, until a firm feeling brake
pedal is achieved.
(1) With engine not running, pump the brake
pedal until a firm pedal is achieved (4-5 strokes).
(2) Remove negative battery cable terminal from
battery.
(3) Remove positive battery cable terminal from
battery.
(4) Remove battery thermal guard shield.
(5) Remove battery clamp, nut and battery from
the battery tray.
(6) Remove screw securing engine coolant filler
tube to battery tray.
(7) If the vehicle is equipped with speed control,
disconnect the vacuum hose at the vacuum tank built
into the battery tray.
(8) Remove the two nuts and one bolt securing bat-
tery tray in place. Remove battery tray.
(9) If vehicle is equipped with speed control:
(a) Disconnect wiring harness connector from
the speed control servo.
(b) Remove the two servo mounting nuts.
(c) Lay speed control servo off to the side, out of
the way.
(10) Remove the wiper module (unit). (Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/WIPERS/WASHERS/WIPER MOD-
ULE - REMOVAL)
(11) Disconnect wiring harness connector from
brake fluid level switch in master cylinder fluid res-
ervoir (Fig. 54).
5 - 38 BRAKES - BASERS
POWER BRAKE BOOSTER (Continued)
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