2001 DODGE RAM tow

DISASSEMBLY
(1) Drain the brake fluid from caliper.
(2) C-clamp a block of wood over one piston (Fig.
7).
(3) Take another piece of wood and pad it with
one-inch thickness of shop towels. Place this piece in
the outboard shoe side of the caliper in front of the
other piston. This will cushion and protect caliper
piston during removal (Fig. 8).(4) To remove the caliper piston directshort
bursts of low pressure airwith a blow gun
through the caliper brake hose port. Use only enough
air pressure to ease the piston out.
CAUTION: Do not blow the piston out of the bore
with sustained air pressure. This could result in a
cracked piston.
WARNING: NEVER ATTEMPT TO CATCH THE PIS-
TON AS IT LEAVES THE BORE. THIS COULD
RESULT IN PERSONAL INJURY.
(5) Remove the C-clamp and block of wood from
the caliper and clamp it over the dust boot of the
first piston removed. This will seal the empty piston
bore.
(6) Move the padded piece of wood in front of the
other piston.
(7) Remove the second piston using the same pro-
cedure withshort bursts of low pressure air.
(8) Remove piston dust boots with a suitable pry
tool (Fig. 9).
(9) Remove piston seals from caliper (Fig. 10).
CAUTION: Do not scratch piston bore while remov-
ing the seals.
Fig. 6 Caliper
1 - WASHERS
2 - MOUNTING BOLTS
3 - HOSE BOLT
Fig. 7 C-Clamp One Piston
1 - BLOCK OF WOOD
2 - C-CLAMP
3 - CALIPER
Fig. 8 Protect Caliper Piston
1 - CALIPER
2 - PADDED BLOCK OF WOOD
3 - C-CLAMP
BR/BEBRAKES 5 - 11
DISC BRAKE CALIPERS (Continued)

(10) Push caliper mounting bolt bushings out of
the boot seals and remove the boot seals from the
caliper (Fig. 11).
(11) Remove caliper bleed screw.
CLEANING
Clean the caliper components with clean brake
fluid or brake clean only. Wipe the caliper and piston
dry with lint free towels or use low pressure com-
pressed air.
CAUTION: Do not use gasoline, kerosene, thinner,
or similar solvents. These products may leave a
residue that could damage the piston and seal.
INSPECTION
The piston is made from a phenolic resin (plastic
material) and should be smooth and clean.
The piston must be replaced if cracked or scored.
Do not attempt to restore a scored piston surface by
sanding or polishing.
CAUTION: If the caliper piston is replaced, install
the same type of piston in the caliper. Never inter-
change phenolic resin and steel caliper pistons.
The pistons, seals, seal grooves, caliper bore and
piston tolerances are different.
The bore can belightlypolished with a brake
hone to remove very minor surface imperfections
(Fig. 12). The caliper should be replaced if the bore is
severely corroded, rusted, scored, or if polishing
would increase bore diameter more than 0.025 mm
(0.001 inch).
ASSEMBLY
CAUTION: Dirt, oil, and solvents can damage cali-
per seals. Insure assembly area is clean and dry.
(1) Lubricate caliper pistons, piston seals and pis-
ton bores with clean, fresh brake fluid.
(2) Install new piston seals into caliper bores (Fig.
13).
NOTE: Verify seal is fully seated and not twisted.
(3) Lightly lubricate lip of new boot with silicone
grease. Install boot on piston and work boot lip into
the groove at the top of piston.
Fig. 9 Piston Dust Boot Removal
1 - CALIPER
2 - DUST BOOT
Fig. 10 Piston Seal
1 - CALIPER
2 - PISTON BORE
3 - PISTON SEAL
Fig. 11 Bushings And Boot Seals
1 - CALIPER
2 - BUSHING
3 - BOOT SEAL
5 - 12 BRAKESBR/BE
DISC BRAKE CALIPERS (Continued)

PEDAL
DESCRIPTION
The brake booster is operated by a suspended type
brake pedal. The pedal pivots on a shaft located in a
mounting bracket attached to the dash panel. The
pedal shaft is supported by bushings in the pedal
and mounting bracket. The brake pedal is attached
to the booster push rod.
OPERATION
When the pedal is depressed, the primary booster
push rod is depressed which move the booster sec-
ondary rod. The booster secondary rod depress the
master cylinder piston.
REMOVAL
(1) Remove knee bolster, (Refer to 23 - BODY/IN-
STRUMENT PANEL/STEERING COLUMN OPEN-
ING COVER - REMOVAL).
(2) Remove brake lamp switch, (Refer to 8 - ELEC-
TRICAL/LAMPS/LIGHTING - EXTERIOR/BRAKE
LAMP SWITCH - REMOVAL).
(3) Remove switches from tabs on brake lamp
switch bracket.
(4) Remove brake lamp switch bracket bolts and
remove bracket (Fig. 23).
(5) Remove clip and washer attaching booster push
rod and slide push rod off pedal.
(6) Remove E-clip from passenger side of pedal
shaft (Fig. 24). Use flat blade screwdriver to pry clip
out of shaft groove.
(7) Push shaft toward driver side of bracket just
enough to expose opposite E-clip. Then remove E-clip
with flat blade screwdriver.
Fig. 20 Reservoir Removal
1 - RESERVOIR
2 - GROMMETS
Fig. 21 Grommet Removal
1 - MASTER CYLINDER BODY
2 - GROMMETS
Fig. 22 Grommet Installation
1 - WORK NEW GROMMETS INTO PLACE USING FINGER
PRESSURE ONLY
Fig. 23 Brake Lamp Switch Bracket
1 - PEDAL BRACKET
2 - BRAKELIGHT SWITCH BRACKET
3 - BRACKET SCREWS (2)
5 - 16 BRAKESBR/BE
FLUID RESERVOIR (Continued)

(8) Push pedal shaft back and out of passenger
side of bracket (Fig. 24).
(9) Remove pedal shaft, brake pedal, wave washer
and bushings from vehicle.
INSTALLATION
(1) Replace bracket and pedal bushings if neces-
sary. Lubricate shaft bores in bracket and pedal
before installing bushings with Mopar Multi-mileage
silicone grease.
(2) Apply liberal quantity of Mopar multi-mileage
grease to pedal shaft and to pedal and bracket bush-
ings.
(3) Position brake pedal in mounting bracket.
(4) Slide pedal shaft into bracket and through
pedal from passenger side.
(5) Push pedal shaft out driver side of mounting
bracket just enough to allow installation of retaining
E-clip.
(6) Install the wave washer between the bracket
and the pedal bushing on the passenger side.
(7) Push pedal shaft back toward passenger side of
bracket and install remaining E-clip on pedal shaft.
(8) Install booster push rod on brake pedal. Secure
push rod to pedal with washer and retaining clip.
(9) Install brake lamp switch bracket and switch,
(Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/LAMPS/LIGHTING -EXTERIOR/BRAKE LAMP SWITCH - INSTALLA-
TION).
(10) Install knee bolster, (Refer to 23 - BODY/IN-
STRUMENT PANEL/STEERING COLUMN OPEN-
ING COVER - INSTALLATION).
POWER BRAKE BOOSTER
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HYDRAULIC
BOOSTER
The hydraulic booster uses hydraulic pressure from
the power steering pump. Before diagnosing a
booster problem, first verify the power steering pump
is operating properly. Perform the following checks.
²Check the power steering fluid level.
²Check the brake fluid level.
²Check all power steering hoses and lines for
leaks and restrictions.
²Check power steering pump pressure.
NOISES
The hydraulic booster unit will produce certain
characteristic booster noises. The noises may occur
when the brake pedal is used in a manner not asso-
ciated with normal braking or driving habits.
HISSING
A hissing noise may be noticed when above normal
brake pedal pressure is applied, 40 lbs. or above. The
noise will be more noticeable if the vehicle is not
moving. The noise will increase with the brake pedal
pressure and an increase of system operating temper-
ature.
CLUNK-CHATTER-CLICKING
A clunk-chatter-clicking may be noticed when the
brake pedal is released quickly, after above normal
brake pedal pressure is applied 50-100 lbs..
BOOSTER FUNCTION TEST
With the engine off depress the brake pedal several
times to discharge the accumulator. Then depress the
brake pedal using 40 lbs. of force and start the
engine. The brake pedal should fall and then push
back against your foot. This indicates the booster is
operating properly.
ACCUMULATOR LEAKDOWN
(1) Start the engine, apply the brakes and turn the
steering wheel from lock to lock. This will ensure the
accumulator is charged. Turn off the engine and let
the vehicle sit for one hour. After one hour there
should be at least two power assisted brake applica-
tion with the engine off. If the system does not retain
a charge the booster must be replaced.
Fig. 24 Brake Pedal Mounting (With Automatic
Transmission)
1 - PEDAL SHAFT
2 - SHAFT RETAINING E-CLIPS (2)
3 - BRAKE PEDAL
4 - PEDAL BUSHING (2)
5 - PEDAL MOUNTING BRACKET
BR/BEBRAKES 5 - 17
PEDAL (Continued)

(3) Lubricate adjuster screw socket, nut, button
and screw thread surfaces with grease or Lubriplate.
(4) Install parking brake lever to the secondary
shoe and install retaining clip.
(5) Install primary shoe on support plate. Secure
shoe with new spring retainers and pin.
(6) Install spring on parking brake strut and
engage strut in primary.
(7) Install secondary shoe on support plate (Fig.
51). Insert strut in shoe and guide shoe onto anchor
pin. Temporarily secure shoe with retaining pin.
(8) Install anchor plate and adjuster cable eyelet
on support plate anchor pin.
(9) Install cable guide in secondary shoe and posi-
tion cable in guide.
(10) Assemble adjuster screw (Fig. 52). Then
install and adjuster screw between the brake shoes.
CAUTION: Be sure the adjuster screws are installed
on the correct brake unit. The adjuster screws are
marked L (left) and R (right) for identification.
(11) Install adjuster lever and spring and connect
adjuster cable to lever.
(12) Install secondary shoe retainers and spring.
(13) Install shoe to shoe spring to secondary shoe,
then to primary shoe.(14)
Verify adjuster operation. Pull adjuster cable
upward, cable should lift lever and rotate star wheel. Be
sure adjuster lever properly engages star wheel teeth.
(15) Install the parking brake cable into guide
spring and insert cable into the backing plate.
(16) Adjust brake shoes to drum with brake gauge.
(17) Install wheel and tire assembly, (Refer to 22 -
TIRES/WHEELS/WHEELS - STANDARD PROCE-
DURE).
(18) Remove support and lower the vehicle.
INSTALLATION - 12 1/8 INCH
NOTE: Pivot screw and adjusting nut have left hand
threads on left side brake and right hand threads
on right side brake. Verify that adjusting nuts are
installed on correct side of vehicle.
(1) Coat contact pads on support plate with Mopar
high temperature grease, multi-mileage grease, or
equivalent.
(2) Assemble adjuster, lower spring and both brake
shoes. Then position the assembled components on
the support plate.
NOTE: Primary shoe is installed toward the front of
the vehicle and secondary toward the rear of the
vehicle.
(3) Install brake shoe hold-down springs and pins.
Be sure hold-down pins are seated in support plate
and springs are connected (Fig. 53).
(4) Insert parking brake cable through parking
brake cable guide spring to parking brake lever. Be
sure cable end is properly secured in lever.
(5) Install upper spring.
Fig. 51 Brake Shoe Installation
1 - SHOE RETURN SPRING
2 - ANCHOR PLATE
3 - ADJUSTER CABLE
4 - SHOE RETAINING PIN
5 - SECONDARY SHOE AND LINING
6 - PRIMARY SHOE AND LINING
7 - STRUT AND SPRING
Fig. 52 Adjuster Screw
1 - WASHER
2 - SOCKET
3 - STAMPED LETTER
L-LEFT BRAKE
R-RIGHT BRAKE
4 - SCREW THREADS
5 - NUT
6 - BUTTON
5 - 28 BRAKESBR/BE
BRAKE PADS/SHOES (Continued)

(4) Bleed base brake system, (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL - STAN-
DARD PROCEDURE)
WHEEL CYLINDERS
REMOVAL
(1) Raise vehicle and remove tire and wheel
assembly.
(2) Remove brake drum.
(3) Lift adjuster lever away from adjuster screw.
Then turn screw star wheel until screw is fully
retracted.
(4) Remove brake shoe return springs, adjuster
spring and adjuster screw. Move upper ends of brake
shoes apart to provide removal clearance for wheel
cylinder links.
(5) Disconnect brake line from wheel cylinder.
(6) Remove wheel cylinder attaching screws and
remove cylinder from support plate
DISASSEMBLY
(1) Remove push rods and boots (Fig. 58).
(2) Press pistons, cups and spring and expander
out of cylinder bore.
(3) Remove bleed screw.
CLEANING
Clean the cylinder and pistons with clean brake
fluid or brake cleaner only. Do not use any other
cleaning agents.
Dry the cylinder and pistons with compressed air.
Do not use rags or shop towels to dry the cylindercomponents. Lint from cloth material will adhere to
the cylinder bores and pistons.
INSPECTION
Inspect the cylinder bore. Light discoloration and
dark stains in the bore are normal and will not
impair cylinder operation.
The cylinder bore can be lightly polished but only
with crocus cloth. Replace the cylinder if the bore is
scored, pitted or heavily corroded. Honing the bore to
restore the surface is not recommended.
Inspect the cylinder pistons. The piston surfaces
should be smooth and free of scratches, scoring and
corrosion. Replace the pistons if worn, scored, or cor-
roded. Do attempt to restore the surface by sanding
or polishing.
Discard the old piston cups and the spring and
expander. These parts are not reusable. The original
dust boots may be reused but only if they are in good
condition.
ASSEMBLY
(1) Lubricate wheel cylinder bore, pistons, piston
cups and spring and expander with clean brake fluid.
(2) Install first piston in cylinder bore. Then
install first cup in bore and against piston.Be sure
lip of piston cup is facing inward (toward
spring and expander) and flat side is against
piston.
(3) Install spring and expander followed by
remaining piston cup and piston.
(4) Install boots on each end of cylinder and insert
push rods in boots.
(5) Install cylinder bleed screw.
Fig. 57 Master Cylinder
1 - MOUNTING NUT
2 - MOUNTING NUT
3 - BRAKE LINES
4 - MASTER CYLINDER
Fig. 58 Wheel Cylinder Components±Typical
1 - SPRING
2 - CYLINDER
3 - PISTON CLIP
4 - BOOT
5 - PUSH ROD
6 - PISTON
7 - BLEED SCREW
8 - CUP EXPANDERS
BR/BEBRAKES 5 - 31
MASTER CYLINDER (Continued)

(9) Remove release lever and release bearing from
clutch housing. Apply Moparthigh temperature
bearing grease to bore of release bearing, release
lever contact surfaces and release lever pivot stud
(Fig. 11).
(10) Apply light coat of Moparthigh temperature
bearing grease to splines of transmission input shaft
(or drive gear) and to release bearing slide surface of
the transmission front bearing retainer (Fig. 12). Do
not over lubricate shaft splines. This can result in
grease contamination of disc.(11) Install release lever and bearing in clutch
housing. Be sure spring clips that retain fork on
pivot ball and release bearing on fork are properly
installed (Fig. 13). Also verify that the release lever
is installed properly. When the release lever is
installed correctly, the lever part number will be
toward the bottom of the transmission and right side
up. There is also a stamped ªIº in the lever which
goes to the pivot ball side of the transmission.
(12)
Install transmission. Refer to Group 21, Trans-
mission and Transfer Case, for proper procedures.
(13) Check fluid level in clutch master cylinder.
Fig. 11 Clutch Release Component Lubrication
Points
1 - CLUTCH HOUSING
2 - COAT RELEASE FORK PIVOT BALL STUD WITH HIGH TEMP.
GREASE
3 - RELEASE FORK
4 - APPLY LIGHT COAT HIGH TEMP. GREASE TO RELEASE
BEARING BORE
5 - LUBE POINTS (HIGH TEMP. GREASE)
Fig. 12 Input Shaft Lubrication Points
1 - INPUT SHAFT
2 - BEARING RETAINER
3 - APPLY LIGHT COAT OF HIÐTEMP GREASE TO THESE
SURFACES BEFORE INSTALLATION
Fig. 13 Release Fork And Bearing Spring Clip
Position
1 - FORK
2 - SPRING CLIP
3 - BEARING
4 - SPRING CLIP
6 - 10 CLUTCHBR/BE
CLUTCH DISC (Continued)

On gas engines, the acceptable maximum TIR for
housing bore runout is 0.010 inch. If measured TIR is
more than 0.010 in. (as in the example), bore runout
will have to be corrected with offset dowels. Offset
dowels are available in 0.007, 0.014 and 0.021 in.
sizes for this purpose (Fig. 16). Refer to Correcting
Housing Bore Runout for dowel installation.
On diesel engines, the acceptable maximum TIR
for housing bore runout is 0.015 inch. However,
unlike gas engines, offset dowels are not available to
correct runout on diesel engines.If bore runout
exceeds the stated maximum on a diesel engine,
it may be necessary to replace either the clutch
housing, or transmission adapter plate.
Correcting Clutch Housing Bore Runout - Engine Only
On gas engine vehicles, clutch housing bore runout
can be corrected with offset dowels.
The dial indicator reads positive when the plunger
moves inward (toward indicator) and negative when
it moves outward (away from indicator). As a result,
the lowest or most negative reading determines the
direction of housing bore offset (runout).
In the sample readings shown (Fig. 17) and in Step
7 above, the bore is offset toward the 0.010 inch
reading. To correct this, remove the housing and orig-
inal dowels. Then install the new offset dowels in the
direction needed to center the bore with the crank-
shaft centerline.
In the example, TIR was 0.012 inch. The dowels
needed for correction would have an offset of 0.007
in. (Fig. 17).
Install the dowels with the slotted side facing out
so they can be turned with a screwdriver. Then
install the housing, remount the dial indicator and
check bore runout again. Rotate the dowels until the
TIR is less than 0.010 in. if necessary.If a TIR of 0.053 in., or greater is encountered, it
will be necessary to replace the clutch housing.
Measuring Clutch Housing Face Runout
(1) Reposition the dial indicator plunger on the
housing face (Fig. 18). Place the indicator plunger at
the rim of the housing bore as shown.
(2) Rotate the crankshaft until the indicator
plunger is at the 10 O'clock position on the bore.
Then zero the dial indicator.
(3) Measure and record face runout at four points
90É apart around the housing face (Fig. 19) . Perform
the measurement at least twice for accuracy.
Fig. 16 Housing Bore Measurement Points And
Sample Readings
1 - CLUTCH HOUSING BORE CIRCLE
Fig. 17 Housing Bore Alignment Dowel Selection
1 - SLOT SHOWS DIRECTION OF OFFSET
2 - OFFSET DOWEL
TIR VALUE OFFSET DOWEL
REQUIRED
0.011 - 0.021 inch 0.007 inch
0.022 - 0.035 inch 0.014 inch
0.036 - 0.052 inch 0.021 inch
Fig. 18 Measuring Clutch Housing Face Runout
1 - INDICATOR PLUNGER
2 - DIAL INDICATOR
3 - CLUTCH HOUSING FACE
4 - INDICATOR MOUNTING STUD OR ROD
6 - 12 CLUTCHBR/BE
CLUTCH HOUSING (Continued)