2001 DODGE RAM brake light

AXLE SHAFTS
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the axle shaft flange bolts.
(2) Slide the axle shaft out from the axle tube.
INSTALLATION
(1) Clean the gasket contact surface area on the
flange with an appropriate solvent. Install a new
flange gasket and slide the axle shaft into the tube.
(2) Install the bolts and tighten to 129 N´m (95 ft.
lbs.).
AXLE BEARINGS
REMOVAL
(1) Remove wheel and tire assembly.
(2) Remove brake drum.
(3) Remove the axle shaft.
(4) Remove the lock wedge and adjustment nut.
Use Socket DD-1241±JD to remove the adjustment
nut.
(5) Remove the hub assembly. The outer axle bear-
ing will slide out as the hub is being removed.
(6) Remove inner grease seal and discard. Use
Installer 5064 and Handle C-4171 to drive grease
seal and inner axle bearing from the hub.
(7) Remove the bearing cups from the hub bore.
Use a brass drift, or an appropriate removal tool, to
tap out the cups.
INSTALLATION
(1) Thoroughly clean both axle bearings and inte-
rior of the hub with an appropriate cleaning solvent.
(2) Install the bearing cups. Use Installer 8153
and Handle C-4171 to install the bearing cups.
(3) Apply lubricant to surface area of the bearing
cup.
(4) Install the inner axle bearing in the hub.
(5) Install a new bearing grease seal. Use Installer
8152 and Handle C-4171 to install the grease seal.
(6) Inspect the bearing and seal contact surfaces
on the axle tube spindle for burrs and/or roughness.
Remove all the rough contact surfaces from the axle
spindle. Apply a coating of multi-purpose NLGI,
grade 2, EP-type lubricant to the axle.
CAUTION: Use care to prevent the bearing grease
seal from contacting the axle tube spindle threads
during installation. Otherwise, the seal could be
damaged.
(7) Carefully slide the hub onto the axle.
(8) Install the outer axle bearing.(9) Install the hub bearing adjustment nut. Use
Socket DD-1241±JD to install the adjustment nut.
(10) Tighten the adjustment nut to 163-190 N´m
(120-140 ft. lbs.) while rotating the wheel.
(11) Loosen the adjustment nut 1/8 of-a-turn to
provide 0.001-inch to 0.010-inch wheel bearing end
play.
(12) Tap the locking wedge into the spindle key-
way and adjustment nut. Try to ensure that the lock-
ing wedge is installed into a new position in the
adjustment nut.
(13) Install the axle shaft.
(14) Install the brake drum.
(15) Install the wheel and tire assembly.
PINION SEAL
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Scribe a mark on the universal joint, pinion
yoke, and pinion shaft for reference.
(3) Disconnect the propeller shaft from the pinion
yoke. Secure the propeller shaft in an upright posi-
tion to prevent damage to the rear universal joint.
(4) Remove the wheel and tire assemblies.
(5) Remove the brake drums to prevent any drag.
The drag may cause a false bearing preload torque
measurement.
(6) Rotate the pinion yoke three or four times.
(7) Measure the amount of torque necessary to
rotate the pinion gear with a (in. lbs.) dial-type
torque wrench. Record the torque reading for instal-
lation reference.
(8) Hold the yoke with Wrench 6719. Remove the
pinion shaft nut and washer.
(9) Remove the yoke with Remover C-452 (Fig. 22).
(10) Remove the pinion shaft seal with suitable
pry tool or slide-hammer mounted screw.
INSTALLATION
(1) Clean the seal contact surface in the housing
bore.
(2) Examine the splines on the pinion shaft for
burrs or wear. Remove any burrs and clean the shaft.
(3) Inspect pinion yoke for cracks, worn splines
and worn seal contact surface. Replace yoke if neces-
sary.
NOTE: The outer perimeter of the seal is pre-coated
with a special sealant. An additional application of
sealant is not required.
(4) Apply a light coating of gear lubricant on the
lip of pinion seal.
(5) Install new pinion shaft seal with an appropri-
ate Installer.
BR/BEREAR AXLE - 286RBI 3 - 185

(3) During road test, make normal and firm brake
stops in 25-40 mph range. Note faulty brake opera-
tion such as low pedal, hard pedal, fade, pedal pulsa-
tion, pull, grab, drag, noise, etc.
(4) Attempt to stop the vehicle with the parking
brake only and note grab, drag, noise, etc.
PEDAL FALLS AWAY
A brake pedal that falls away under steady foot
pressure is generally the result of a system leak. The
leak point could be at a brake line, fitting, hose, or
caliper/wheel cylinder. If leakage is severe, fluid will
be evident at or around the leaking component.
Internal leakage (seal by-pass) in the master cylin-
der caused by worn or damaged piston cups, may
also be the problem cause.
An internal leak in the ABS or RWAL system may
also be the problem with no physical evidence.
LOW PEDAL
If a low pedal is experienced, pump the pedal sev-
eral times. If the pedal comes back up, worn linings,
rotors, drums, or rear brakes out of adjustment are
the most likely causes. The proper course of action is
to inspect and replace all worn component and make
the proper adjustments.
SPONGY PEDAL
A spongy pedal is most often caused by air in the
system. However, thin brake drums or substandard
brake lines and hoses can also cause a spongy pedal.
The proper course of action is to bleed the system,
and replace thin drums and substandard quality
brake hoses if suspected.
HARD PEDAL OR HIGH PEDAL EFFORT
A hard pedal or high pedal effort may be due to
lining that is water soaked, contaminated, glazed, or
badly worn. The power booster or check valve could
also be faulty.
PEDAL PULSATION
Pedal pulsation is caused by components that are
loose, or beyond tolerance limits.
The primary cause of pulsation are disc brake
rotors with excessive lateral runout or thickness vari-
ation, or out of round brake drums. Other causes are
loose wheel bearings or calipers and worn or dam-
aged tires.
NOTE: Some pedal pulsation may be felt during
ABS/EBD activation.BRAKE DRAG
Brake drag occurs when the lining is in constant
contact with the rotor or drum. Drag can occur at one
wheel, all wheels, fronts only, or rears only.
Drag is a product of incomplete brake shoe release.
Drag can be minor or severe enough to overheat the
linings, rotors and drums.
Minor drag will usually cause slight surface char-
ring of the lining. It can also generate hard spots in
rotors and drums from the overheat-cool down pro-
cess. In most cases, the rotors, drums, wheels and
tires are quite warm to the touch after the vehicle is
stopped.
Severe drag can char the brake lining all the way
through. It can also distort and score rotors and
drums to the point of replacement. The wheels, tires
and brake components will be extremely hot. In
severe cases, the lining may generate smoke as it
chars from overheating.
Common causes of brake drag are:
²Seized or improperly adjusted parking brake
cables
²Loose/worn wheel bearing
²Seized caliper or wheel cylinder piston
²Caliper binding on damaged or missing anti-rat-
tle clips or bushings
²Loose caliper mounting
²Drum brake shoes binding on worn/damaged
support plates
²Mis-assembled components
²Long booster output rod
If brake drag occurs at all wheels, the problem
may be related to a blocked master cylinder return
port, or faulty power booster (binds-does not release).
BRAKE FADE
Brake fade is usually a product of overheating
caused by brake drag. However, brake overheating
and resulting fade can also be caused by riding the
brake pedal, making repeated high deceleration stops
in a short time span, or constant braking on steep
mountain roads. Refer to the Brake Drag information
in this section for causes.
BRAKE PULL
Front brake pull condition could result from:
²Contaminated lining in one caliper
²Seized caliper piston
²Binding caliper
²Loose caliper
²Damaged anti-rattle clips
²Improper brake shoes
²Damaged rotor
A worn, damaged wheel bearing or suspension
component are further causes of pull. A damaged
5 - 6 BRAKESBR/BE
HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL (Continued)

front tire (bruised, ply separation) can also cause
pull.
A common and frequently misdiagnosed pull condi-
tion is where direction of pull changes after a few
stops. The cause is a combination of brake drag fol-
lowed by fade at one of the brake units.
As the dragging brake overheats, efficiency is so
reduced that fade occurs. Since the opposite brake
unit is still functioning normally, its braking effect is
magnified. This causes pull to switch direction in
favor of the normally functioning brake unit.
An additional point when diagnosing a change in
pull condition concerns brake cool down. Remember
that pull will return to the original direction, if the
dragging brake unit is allowed to cool down (and is
not seriously damaged).
REAR BRAKE GRAB OR PULL
Rear grab or pull is usually caused by improperly
adjusted or seized parking brake cables, contami-
nated lining, bent or binding shoes and support
plates, or improperly assembled components. This is
particularly true when only one rear wheel is
involved. However, when both rear wheels are
affected, the master cylinder or proportioning valve
could be at fault.
BRAKES DO NOT HOLD AFTER DRIVING THROUGH DEEP
WATER PUDDLES
This condition is generally caused by water soaked
lining. If the lining is only wet, it can be dried by
driving with the brakes very lightly applied for a
mile or two. However, if the lining is both soaked and
dirt contaminated, cleaning and/or replacement will
be necessary.
BRAKE LINING CONTAMINATION
Brake lining contamination is mostly a product of
leaking calipers or wheel cylinders, worn seals, driv-
ing through deep water puddles, or lining that has
become covered with grease and grit during repair.
Contaminated lining should be replaced to avoid fur-
ther brake problems.
WHEEL AND TIRE PROBLEMS
Some conditions attributed to brake components
may actually be caused by a wheel or tire problem.
A damaged wheel can cause shudder, vibration and
pull. A worn or damaged tire can also cause pull.
Severely worn tires with very little tread left can
produce a grab-like condition as the tire loses and
recovers traction. Flat-spotted tires can cause vibra-
tion and generate shudder during brake operation. A
tire with internal damage such as a severe bruise,
cut, or ply separation can cause pull and vibration.BRAKE NOISES
Some brake noise is common with rear drum
brakes and on some disc brakes during the first few
stops after a vehicle has been parked overnight or
stored. This is primarily due to the formation of trace
corrosion (light rust) on metal surfaces. This light
corrosion is typically cleared from the metal surfaces
after a few brake applications causing the noise to
subside.
BRAKE SQUEAK/SQUEAL
Brake squeak or squeal may be due to linings that
are wet or contaminated with brake fluid, grease, or
oil. Glazed linings and rotors with hard spots can
also contribute to squeak. Dirt and foreign material
embedded in the brake lining will also cause squeak/
squeal.
A very loud squeak or squeal is frequently a sign of
severely worn brake lining. If the lining has worn
through to the brake shoes in spots, metal-to-metal
contact occurs. If the condition is allowed to continue,
rotors and drums can become so scored that replace-
ment is necessary.
BRAKE CHATTER
Brake chatter is usually caused by loose or worn
components, or glazed/burnt lining. Rotors with hard
spots can also contribute to chatter. Additional causes
of chatter are out-of-tolerance rotors, brake lining not
securely attached to the shoes, loose wheel bearings
and contaminated brake lining.
THUMP/CLUNK NOISE
Thumping or clunk noises during braking are fre-
quentlynotcaused by brake components. In many
cases, such noises are caused by loose or damaged
steering, suspension, or engine components. However,
calipers that bind on the slide surfaces can generate
a thump or clunk noise. In addition, worn out,
improperly adjusted, or improperly assembled rear
brake shoes can also produce a thump noise.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - MANUAL BLEEDING
Use Mopar brake fluid, or an equivalent quality
fluid meeting SAE J1703-F and DOT 3 standards
only. Use fresh, clean fluid from a sealed container at
all times.
(1) Remove reservoir filler caps and fill reservoir.
(2) If calipers, or wheel cylinders were overhauled,
open all caliper and wheel cylinder bleed screws.
Then close each bleed screw as fluid starts to drip
from it. Top off master cylinder reservoir once more
before proceeding.
(3) Attach one end of bleed hose to bleed screw
and insert opposite end in glass container partially
BR/BEBRAKES 5 - 7
HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL (Continued)

filled with brake fluid (Fig. 1). Be sure end of bleed
hose is immersed in fluid.
(4) Open up bleeder, then have a helper press
down the brake pedal. Once the pedal is down close
the bleeder. Repeat bleeding until fluid stream is
clear and free of bubbles. Then move to the next
wheel.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - PRESSURE
BLEEDING
Use Mopar brake fluid, or an equivalent quality
fluid meeting SAE J1703-F and DOT 3 standards
only. Use fresh, clean fluid from a sealed container at
all times.
If pressure bleeding equipment will be used, the
front brake metering valve will have to be held open
to bleed the front brakes. The valve stem is located
in the forward end or top of the combination valve.
The stem must either be pressed inward, or held out-
ward slightly. A spring clip tool or helper is needed to
hold the valve stem in position.
Follow the manufacturers instructions carefully
when using pressure equipment. Do not exceed the
tank manufacturers pressure recommendations. Gen-
erally, a tank pressure of 15-20 psi is sufficient for
bleeding.
Fill the bleeder tank with recommended fluid and
purge air from the tank lines before bleeding.
Do not pressure bleed without a proper master cyl-
inder adapter. The wrong adapter can lead to leak-
age, or drawing air back into the system. Useadapter provided with the equipment or Adapter
6921.
BRAKE LINES
STANDARD PROCEDURE - DOUBLE INVERTED
FLARING
A preformed metal brake tube is recommended and
preferred for all repairs. However, double-wall steel
tube can be used for emergency repair when factory
replacement parts are not readily available.
(1) Cut off damaged tube with Tubing Cutter.
(2) Ream cut edges of tubing to ensure proper
flare.
(3) Install replacement tube nut on the tube.
(4) Insert tube in flaring tool.
(5) Place gauge form over the end of the tube.
(6) Push tubing through flaring tool jaws until
tube contacts recessed notch in gauge that matches
tube diameter.
(7) Tighten the tool bar on the tube
(8) Insert plug on gauge in the tube. Then swing
compression disc over gauge and center tapered flar-
ing screw in recess of compression disc (Fig. 2).
(9) Tighten tool handle until plug gauge is
squarely seated on jaws of flaring tool. This will start
the inverted flare.
(10) Remove the plug gauge and complete the
inverted flare.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - ISO FLARING
A preformed metal brake tube is recommended and
preferred for all repairs. However, double-wall steel
Fig. 1 Bleed Hose Setup
1 - BLEED HOSE
2 - FLUID CONTAINER PARTIALLY FILLED WITH FLUID
Fig. 2 Inverted Flare Tools
5 - 8 BRAKESBR/BE
HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL (Continued)

tube can be used for emergency repair when factory
replacement parts are not readily available.
To make a ISO flare use an ISO flaring tool kit.
(1) Cut off damaged tube with Tubing Cutter.
(2) Remove any burrs from the inside of the tube.
(3) Install tube nut on the tube.
(4) Position the tube in the flaring tool flush with
the top of the tool bar (Fig. 3). Then tighten the tool
bar on the tube.
(5) Install the correct size adaptor on the flaring
tool yoke screw.
(6) Lubricate the adaptor.
(7) Align the adaptor and yoke screw over the tube
(Fig. 3).
(8) Turn the yoke screw in until the adaptor is
squarely seated on the tool bar.
COMBINATION VALVE
DESCRIPTION
The combination valve contains a pressure differ-
ential valve and switch, metering valve and a rear
brake proportioning valve on 1500 and early
2500/3500 models with rear drum brakes. The combi-
nation valve/rear brake proportioning valve are not
repairable and must be replaced as an assembly.The pressure differential switch is connected to the
brake warning lamp.
The metering valve on the 1500 and early
2500/3500 models with rear drum brakes is used to
balance brake action between the front disc and rear
drum brakes.
The proportioning valve on the 1500 and early
2500/3500 models with rear drum brakes is used to
balance front-rear brake action at high decelerations.
OPERATION
PRESSURE DIFFERENTIAL SWITCH
The switch is triggered by movement of the switch
valve. The purpose of the switch is to monitor fluid
pressure in the separate front/rear brake hydraulic
circuits.
A decrease or loss of fluid pressure in either
hydraulic circuit will cause the switch valve to shut-
tle forward or rearward in response to the pressure
differential. Movement of the switch valve will push
the switch plunger upward. This closes the switch
internal contacts completing the electrical circuit to
the warning lamp. The switch valve may remain in
an actuated position until repair restores system
pressures to normal levels.
METERING VALVE (1500 Model)(and early
2500/3500 models with rear drum brakes)
The valve holds-off the initial pressure to the front
disc brakes until the rear brake shoes retracting
springs are overcome. The valve is designed to main-
tain front brake fluid pressure at 241-517 kPa (35-75
psi) until the hold-off limit of 310-689 kPa (100 psi)
is reached. At this point, the metering valve opens
completely permitting full fluid apply pressure to the
front disc brakes. This reduces front brake lining
wear during low deceleration stops.
PROPORTIONING VALVE (1500 Model)(and early
2500/3500 models with rear drum brakes)
The valve allows normal fluid flow during moder-
ate braking. The valve only controls fluid flow during
high decelerations brake stops, when a percentage of
rear weight is transferred to the front wheels.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - COMBINATION
VALVE
Pressure Differential Switch
(1) Have helper sit in drivers seat to apply brake
pedal and observe red brake warning light.
(2) Raise vehicle on hoist.
(3) Connect bleed hose to a rear wheel cylinder
and immerse hose end in container partially filled
with brake fluid.
Fig. 3 ISO Flaring
1 - ADAPTER
2 - LUBRICATE HERE
3 - PILOT
4 - FLUSH WITH BAR
5 - TUBING
6 - BAR ASSEMBLY
BR/BEBRAKES 5 - 9
BRAKE LINES (Continued)

(4) Have helper press and hold brake pedal to floor
and observe warning light.
(a) If warning light illuminates, switch is operat-
ing correctly.
(b) If light fails to illuminate, check circuit fuse,
bulb, and wiring. The parking brake switch can be
used to aid in identifying whether or not the brake
light bulb and fuse is functional. Repair or replace
parts as necessary and test differential pressure
switch operation again.
(5) If warning light still does not illuminate,
switch is faulty. Replace combination valve assembly,
bleed brake system and verify proper switch and
valve operation.
REMOVAL
(1) Remove pressure differential switch wire con-
nector (Fig. 4) from the valve.
(2) Remove the brake lines from the valve.
(3) Remove the valve mounting bolt and remove
the valve from the bracket.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the valve on the bracket and install
the mounting bolt. Tighten the mounting bolt to 23
N´m (210 in. lbs.).
(2) Install the brake lines into the valve and
tighten to 19-23 N´m (170-200 in. lbs.).
(3) Connect the pressure differential switch wire
connector.(4) Bleed base brake system, (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL - STAN-
DARD PROCEDURE).
DISC BRAKE CALIPERS
REMOVAL - REAR
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Remove the tire and wheel assembly.
(3) Compress the disc brake caliper using tool
#C4212F.
(4) Remove the caliper pin bolts.
(5) Remove the banjo bolt and discard the copper
washer.
CAUTION: Never allow the disc brake caliper to
hang from the brake hose. Damage to the brake
hose with result. Provide a suitable support to hang
the caliper securely.
(6) Remove the rear disc brake caliper (Fig. 5).
REMOVAL - FRONT
(1) Raise and support vehicle.
(2) Remove front wheel and tire assembly.
(3) Remove caliper brake hose bolt, washers and
hose (Fig. 6).
(4) Remove caliper mounting bolts.
(5) Tilt the top of the caliper up and remove it
from the adapter.
(6) Remove anti-rattle springs.
NOTE: Upper and lower anti-rattle springs are not
interchangeable.
Fig. 4 Pressure
1 - COMBINATION VALVE
2 - BRAKE LINES
3 - MOUNTING BOLT
4 - PRESSURE DIFFERENTIAL SWITCH
Fig. 5 REAR CALIPER
1 - Banjo Bolt
2 - Caliper Pin Bolts
5 - 10 BRAKESBR/BE
COMBINATION VALVE (Continued)

(10) Push caliper mounting bolt bushings out of
the boot seals and remove the boot seals from the
caliper (Fig. 11).
(11) Remove caliper bleed screw.
CLEANING
Clean the caliper components with clean brake
fluid or brake clean only. Wipe the caliper and piston
dry with lint free towels or use low pressure com-
pressed air.
CAUTION: Do not use gasoline, kerosene, thinner,
or similar solvents. These products may leave a
residue that could damage the piston and seal.
INSPECTION
The piston is made from a phenolic resin (plastic
material) and should be smooth and clean.
The piston must be replaced if cracked or scored.
Do not attempt to restore a scored piston surface by
sanding or polishing.
CAUTION: If the caliper piston is replaced, install
the same type of piston in the caliper. Never inter-
change phenolic resin and steel caliper pistons.
The pistons, seals, seal grooves, caliper bore and
piston tolerances are different.
The bore can belightlypolished with a brake
hone to remove very minor surface imperfections
(Fig. 12). The caliper should be replaced if the bore is
severely corroded, rusted, scored, or if polishing
would increase bore diameter more than 0.025 mm
(0.001 inch).
ASSEMBLY
CAUTION: Dirt, oil, and solvents can damage cali-
per seals. Insure assembly area is clean and dry.
(1) Lubricate caliper pistons, piston seals and pis-
ton bores with clean, fresh brake fluid.
(2) Install new piston seals into caliper bores (Fig.
13).
NOTE: Verify seal is fully seated and not twisted.
(3) Lightly lubricate lip of new boot with silicone
grease. Install boot on piston and work boot lip into
the groove at the top of piston.
Fig. 9 Piston Dust Boot Removal
1 - CALIPER
2 - DUST BOOT
Fig. 10 Piston Seal
1 - CALIPER
2 - PISTON BORE
3 - PISTON SEAL
Fig. 11 Bushings And Boot Seals
1 - CALIPER
2 - BUSHING
3 - BOOT SEAL
5 - 12 BRAKESBR/BE
DISC BRAKE CALIPERS (Continued)

PEDAL
DESCRIPTION
The brake booster is operated by a suspended type
brake pedal. The pedal pivots on a shaft located in a
mounting bracket attached to the dash panel. The
pedal shaft is supported by bushings in the pedal
and mounting bracket. The brake pedal is attached
to the booster push rod.
OPERATION
When the pedal is depressed, the primary booster
push rod is depressed which move the booster sec-
ondary rod. The booster secondary rod depress the
master cylinder piston.
REMOVAL
(1) Remove knee bolster, (Refer to 23 - BODY/IN-
STRUMENT PANEL/STEERING COLUMN OPEN-
ING COVER - REMOVAL).
(2) Remove brake lamp switch, (Refer to 8 - ELEC-
TRICAL/LAMPS/LIGHTING - EXTERIOR/BRAKE
LAMP SWITCH - REMOVAL).
(3) Remove switches from tabs on brake lamp
switch bracket.
(4) Remove brake lamp switch bracket bolts and
remove bracket (Fig. 23).
(5) Remove clip and washer attaching booster push
rod and slide push rod off pedal.
(6) Remove E-clip from passenger side of pedal
shaft (Fig. 24). Use flat blade screwdriver to pry clip
out of shaft groove.
(7) Push shaft toward driver side of bracket just
enough to expose opposite E-clip. Then remove E-clip
with flat blade screwdriver.
Fig. 20 Reservoir Removal
1 - RESERVOIR
2 - GROMMETS
Fig. 21 Grommet Removal
1 - MASTER CYLINDER BODY
2 - GROMMETS
Fig. 22 Grommet Installation
1 - WORK NEW GROMMETS INTO PLACE USING FINGER
PRESSURE ONLY
Fig. 23 Brake Lamp Switch Bracket
1 - PEDAL BRACKET
2 - BRAKELIGHT SWITCH BRACKET
3 - BRACKET SCREWS (2)
5 - 16 BRAKESBR/BE
FLUID RESERVOIR (Continued)