2001 CHRYSLER VOYAGER length

FUEL INJECTION
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
FUEL INJECTION
OPERATION.............................16
SPECIFICATIONS........................21
SPECIAL TOOLS.........................22
ACCELERATOR PEDAL
REMOVAL..............................23
INSTALLATION...........................23
CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR
DESCRIPTION...........................23
OPERATION.............................23
REMOVAL..............................23
INSTALLATION...........................24
ENGINE SPEED SENSOR
DESCRIPTION...........................24
OPERATION.............................24
FUEL INJECTOR
DESCRIPTION...........................25
OPERATION.............................25
REMOVAL..............................25
INSTALLATION...........................26
FUEL PUMP RELAY
DESCRIPTION...........................27
OPERATION.............................27
IDLE AIR CONTROL MOTOR
DESCRIPTION...........................27
OPERATION.............................27
REMOVAL..............................28INSTALLATION...........................28
INLET AIR TEMPERATURE SENSOR
DESCRIPTION...........................28
OPERATION.............................28
MAP SENSOR
DESCRIPTION...........................29
OPERATION.............................29
REMOVAL..............................30
INSTALLATION...........................30
O2 SENSOR
DESCRIPTION...........................30
OPERATION.............................31
REMOVAL..............................32
INSTALLATION...........................33
THROTTLE BODY
DESCRIPTION...........................33
OPERATION.............................34
REMOVAL..............................34
INSTALLATION...........................34
THROTTLE CONTROL CABLE
REMOVAL..............................34
INSTALLATION...........................34
THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR
DESCRIPTION...........................34
OPERATION.............................35
REMOVAL..............................35
INSTALLATION...........................35
FUEL INJECTION
OPERATION - INJECTION SYSTEM
All engines used in this section have a sequential
Multi-Port Electronic Fuel Injection system. The MPI
system is computer regulated and provides precise
air/fuel ratios for all driving conditions. The Power-
train Control Module (PCM) operates the fuel injec-
tion system.
The PCM regulates:
²Ignition timing
²Air/fuel ratio
²Emission control devices
²Cooling fan
²Charging system
²Idle speed
²Vehicle speed control
Various sensors provide the inputs necessary for
the PCM to correctly operate these systems. In addi-tion to the sensors, various switches also provide
inputs to the PCM.
The PCM can adapt its programming to meet
changing operating conditions.
Fuel is injected into the intake port above the
intake valve in precise metered amounts through
electrically operated injectors. The PCM fires the
injectors in a specific sequence. Under most operat-
ing conditions, the PCM maintains an air fuel ratio
of 14.7 parts air to 1 part fuel by constantly adjust-
ing injector pulse width. Injector pulse width is the
length of time the injector is open.
The PCM adjusts injector pulse width by opening
and closing the ground path to the injector. Engine
RPM (speed) and manifold absolute pressure (air
density) are the primary inputs that determine injec-
tor pulse width.
OPERATION - MODES OF OPERATION
As input signals to the PCM change, the PCM
adjusts its response to output devices. For example,
14 - 16 FUEL INJECTIONRS

Refer to the maintenance schedules for the recom-
mended fuel filter replacement intervals.
For draining of water from canister, refer to Fuel
Filter/Water Separator Removal/Installation section.
A Water-In-Fuel (WIF) sensor is part of the fuel fil-
ter cap. Refer to Water-In-Fuel Sensor Description/
Operation.
The fuel heater is installed into the filter/separator
housing above the fuel filter. Refer to Fuel Heater
Description/Operation.
FUEL LINES
DESCRIPTION
All fuel lines up to the fuel injection pump are con-
sidered low-pressure. This includes the fuel lines
from: the fuel tank to the fuel transfer pump, and
the fuel transfer pump to the fuel injection pump.
The fuel return lines and the fuel drain lines are also
considered low-pressure lines. High-pressure lines
are used between the fuel injection pump and the
fuel injectors. Also refer to High-Pressure Fuel Lines
Description/Operation.
DESCRIPTIONÐHIGH PRESSURE FUEL LINES
The high-pressure fuel lines are the 4 lines located
between the fuel injection pump and the fuel injec-
torsctor tubes. All other fuel lines are considered low-
pressure lines.
OPERATIONÐHIGH PRESSURE FUEL LINES
CAUTION: The high-pressure fuel lines cannot con-
tact each other or other components. Do not
attempt to weld high-pressure fuel lines or to repair
lines that are damaged. If lines are ever kinked or
bent, they must be replaced. Use only the recom-
mended lines when replacement of high-pressure
fuel line is necessary.
High-pressure fuel lines deliver fuel under
extremely high pressure from the injection pump to
the fuel injectors. The lines expand and contract from
the high-pressure fuel pulses generated during the
injection process. All high-pressure fuel lines are of
the same length and inside diameter. Correct high-
pressure fuel line usage and installation is critical to
smooth engine operation.
WARNING: USE EXTREME CAUTION WHEN
INSPECTING FOR HIGH-PRESSURE FUEL LEAKS.
INSPECT FOR HIGH-PRESSURE FUEL LEAKS WITH
A SHEET OF CARDBOARD. HIGH FUEL INJECTION
PRESSURE CAN CAUSE PERSONAL INJURY IF
CONTACT IS MADE WITH THE SKIN.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HIGH-PRESSURE
FUEL LINE LEAKS
High-pressure fuel line leaks can cause starting
problems and poor engine performance.
WARNING: DUE TO EXTREME FUEL PRESSURES,
USE EXTREME CAUTION WHEN INSPECTING FOR
HIGH-PRESSURE FUEL LEAKS. DO NOT GET YOUR
HAND NEAR A SUSPECTED LEAK. INSPECT FOR
HIGH-PRESSURE FUEL LEAKS WITH A SHEET OF
CARDBOARD. HIGH FUEL INJECTION PRESSURE
CAN CAUSE PERSONAL INJURY IF CONTACT IS
MADE WITH THE SKIN.
Start the engine. Move the cardboard over the
high-pressure fuel lines and check for fuel spray onto
the cardboard (Fig. 4). If a high-pressure line connec-
tion is leaking, bleed the system and tighten the con-
nection. Refer to the Air Bleed Procedure in this
group for procedures. Replace damaged, restricted or
leaking high-pressure fuel lines with the correct
replacement line.
CAUTION: The high-pressure fuel lines cannot con-
tact each other or other components. Do not
attempt to weld high-pressure fuel lines or to repair
lines that are damaged. Only use the recommended
lines when replacement of high-pressure fuel line is
necessary.
Fig. 4 Typical Test for Leaks with Cardboard
1 - HIGH-PRESSURE LINE
2 - CARDBOARD
3 - FITTING
RGFUEL DELIVERY14a-5
FUEL FILTER / WATER SEPARATOR (Continued)

When the conditions causing a water leak have
been determined, simulate the conditions as closely
as possible.
²If a leak occurs with the vehicle parked in a
steady light rain, flood the leak area with an open-
ended garden hose.
²If a leak occurs while driving at highway speeds
in a steady rain, test the leak area with a reasonable
velocity stream or fan spray of water. Direct the
spray in a direction comparable to actual conditions.
²If a leak occurs when the vehicle is parked on an
incline, hoist the end or side of the vehicle to simu-
late this condition. This method can be used when
the leak occurs when the vehicle accelerates, stops or
turns. If the leak occurs on acceleration, hoist the
front of the vehicle. If the leak occurs when braking,
hoist the back of the vehicle. If the leak occurs on left
turns, hoist the left side of the vehicle. If the leak
occurs on right turns, hoist the right side of the vehi-
cle. For hoisting recommendations refer to Group 0,
Lubrication and Maintenance, General Information
section.
WATER LEAK DETECTION
To detect a water leak point-of-entry, do a water
test and watch for water tracks or droplets forming
on the inside of the vehicle. If necessary, remove inte-
rior trim covers or panels to gain visual access to the
leak area. If the hose cannot be positioned without
being held, have someone help do the water test.
Some water leaks must be tested for a considerable
length of time to become apparent. When a leak
appears, find the highest point of the water track or
drop. The highest point usually will show the point of
entry. After leak point has been found, repair the
leak and water test to verify that the leak has
stopped.
Locating the entry point of water that is leaking
into a cavity between panels can be difficult. The
trapped water may splash or run from the cavity,
often at a distance from the entry point. Most water
leaks of this type become apparent after accelerating,
stopping, turning, or when on an incline.
MIRROR INSPECTION METHOD
When a leak point area is visually obstructed, use
a suitable mirror to gain visual access. A mirror can
also be used to deflect light to a limited-access area
to assist in locating a leak point.
BRIGHT LIGHT LEAK TEST METHOD
Some water leaks in the luggage compartment can
be detected without water testing. Position the vehi-
cle in a brightly lit area. From inside the darkened
luggage compartment inspect around seals and body
seams. If necessary, have a helper direct a drop lightover the suspected leak areas around the luggage
compartment. If light is visible through a normally
sealed location, water could enter through the open-
ing.
PRESSURIZED LEAK TEST METHOD
When a water leak into the passenger compart-
ment cannot be detected by water testing, pressurize
the passenger compartment and soap test exterior of
the vehicle. To pressurize the passenger compart-
ment, close all doors and windows, start engine, and
set heater control to high blower in HEAT position. If
engine can not be started, connect a charger to the
battery to ensure adequate voltage to the blower.
With interior pressurized, apply dish detergent solu-
tion to suspected leak area on the exterior of the
vehicle. Apply detergent solution with spray device or
soft bristle brush. If soap bubbles occur at a body
seam, joint, seal or gasket, the leak entry point could
be at that location.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - WIND NOISE
Wind noise is the result of most air leaks. Air leaks
can be caused by poor sealing, improper body compo-
nent alignment, body seam porosity, or missing plugs
in the engine compartment or door hinge pillar areas.
All body sealing points should be airtight in normal
driving conditions. Moving sealing surfaces will not
always seal airtight under all conditions. At times,
side glass or door seals will allow wind noise to be
noticed in the passenger compartment during high
cross winds. Over compensating on door or glass
adjustments to stop wind noise that occurs under
severe conditions can cause premature seal wear and
excessive closing or latching effort. After a repair pro-
cedure has been performed, test vehicle to verify
noise has stopped before returning vehicle to use.
Wind noise can also be caused by improperly fitted
exterior moldings or body ornamentation. Loose
moldings can flutter, creating a buzzing or chattering
noise. An open cavity or protruding edge can create a
whistling or howling noise. Inspect the exterior of the
vehicle to verify that these conditions do not exist.
VISUAL INSPECTION BEFORE TESTS
Verify that floor and body plugs are in place and
body components are aligned and sealed. If compo-
nent alignment or sealing is necessary, refer to the
appropriate section of this group for proper proce-
dures.
ROAD TESTING WIND NOISE
(1) Drive the vehicle to verify the general location
of the wind noise.
(2) Apply 50 mm (2 in.) masking tape in 150 mm
(6 in.) lengths along weatherstrips, weld seams or
RSBODY23-3
BODY (Continued)

moldings. After each length is applied, drive the vehi-
cle. If noise goes away after a piece of tape is applied,
remove tape, locate, and repair defect.
POSSIBLE CAUSE OF WIND NOISE
²Moldings standing away from body surface can
catch wind and whistle.
²Gaps in sealed areas behind overhanging body
flanges can cause wind-rushing sounds.
²Misaligned movable components.
²Missing or improperly installed plugs in pillars.
²Weld burn through holes.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - PLASTIC BODY
PANEL REPAIR
Resin Transfer Molded (RTM) body panels are rein-
forced with a continuous fiberglass mesh. Epoxy
resin is injected into a gel-coated and fiberglass lined
mold to form a body panel. Sheet molded compound
(SMC) body panels are constructed with fiberglass
strands usually 1 inch or shorter, epoxy resin formed
into sheet stock and pressed in mold flowing material
to form a sheet molded compound (SMC) body panel.
RTM and SMC body panels can be repaired with
epoxy adhesive after market products. Refer to
instructions provided by the manufacturer of prod-
ucts being used to repair RTM or SMC.
DaimlerChrysler Corporation recommends that a
trained automotive body technician perform body
panel repair procedures (Fig. 1).
SAFETY PRECAUTION AND WARNINGS
WARNING: EYE PROTECTION SHOULD BE USED
WHEN SERVICING RTM AND SMC COMPONENTS.
PERSONAL INJURE CAN RESULT.USE AN OSHA
APPROVED BREATHING DEVICE WHEN MIXING
EPOXY, GRINDING RTM AND SMC, AND SPRAYING
PAINT OR SOLVENTS IN A CONFINED AREA. PER-
SONAL INJURY CAN RESULT.AVOID PROLONGEDSKIN CONTACT WITH EPOXY RESIN, PETROLEUM,
OR ALCOHOL BASED SOLVENTS. PERSONAL
INJURY CAN RESULT.DO NOT VENTURE UNDER A
HOISTED VEHICLE THAT IS NOT PROPERLY SUP-
PORTED ON SAFETY STANDS. PERSONAL INJURY
CAN RESULT.
²When holes must be drilled or cut in body pan-
els, verify locations of internal body components and
electrical wiring. Damage to vehicle can result.
²Do not use abrasive chemicals or compounds on
undamaged painted surfaces around repair areas.
Damage to finish can result.
If it is required to section a large panel for an SMC
or RTM repair, it will be necessary to reinforce the
panel with epoxy structural adhesive (rigid repair
adhesive) (Fig. 2). To bond two plastic panels
together, a reinforcement must overlap both panels.
The panels must be ªV'dº at a 20 degree angle. The
area to be reinforced should be washed, then sanded.
Be sure to wipe off any excess soap and water when
finished. Lightly sand or abrade the plastic with an
abrasive pad or sandpaper. Blow off any dust with
compressed air or wipe with a clean dry rag.
When bonding SMC or RTM panels, use a two-part
epoxy adhesive. Properly mix parts A and B, and
apply it to the panels being repaired. Be sure that
enough adhesive has been applied to allow squeeze
out and to fill the full bond line. Once the pieces
have been brought together, do not move them until
the adhesive is cured. The assembly can be held
together with clamps, rivets, etc. A faster cure can be
obtained by heating with a heat lamp or heat gun.
After the parts have been bonded and have had
time to cure, rough sand the seam and apply the
final adhesive filler to the area being repaired.
Fig. 1 Panel Repair
Fig. 2 Panel Sectioning
1 - EXISTING PANEL
2 - NEW PANEL
3 - PANEL ADHESIVE
4 - BONDING STRIP
23 - 4 BODYRS
BODY (Continued)

(c) Mark outline of lower roller arm bracket on
sliding door to assist in making adjustments.
(d) Loosen lower roller arm bracket bolts (Fig.
20).
(e) Move hinge downward to raise the door.
(f) Tighten lower roller arm bracket bolts.
(g) Verify alignment. Re-adjust as necessary.
(4) If the sliding door is low at the C-post;
(a) Open the door to mid-point of travel.
(b) Mark outline of center hinge on sliding door
to assist in making adjustments.
(c) Adjust the adjustment bolt up or down to
move the door position. (Fig. 19).
(d) Move hinge downward to raise the door.
(e) Tighten center hinge bolts.
(f) Verify alignment. Re-adjust as necessary.
(5) If the sliding door is high at the B-post;
(a) Remove access plug in the sliding door trim
panel.
(b) Open the door to mid-point of travel.
(c) Mark outline of lower roller arm bracket on
sliding door to assist in making adjustments.
(d) Loosen lower roller arm bracket bolts (Fig.
20).
(e) Move hinge upward to raise the door.
(f) Tighten lower roller arm bracket bolts.
(g) Verify alignment. Re-adjust as necessary.
DOOR SEAL COMPRESSION
(1) Check seal compression near the middle of the
door even with the latch assembly, using a Chatillon
Force Guage or equivilant. Seal load should not
exceed 120 N´m. Any reading under 120 N´m is
acceptable.
(2) Adjust seal compression at the top of the
B-post seal;(a) Open door to mid-point of travel.
(b) Mark outline of upper roller arm on bracket
to assist in making adjustments.
(c) Loosen bolts holding upper roller arm to
bracket (Fig. 21)
(d) Decrease the length of the upper roller arm
to increase seal compression.
(e) Increase the length of the upper roller arm to
decrease seal compression.
(f) Tighten all upper roller arm bolts.
(g) Verify door alignment. Re-adjust as neces-
sary.
(3) Adjust seal compression at the bottom of B-post
seal.
(a) Open door to mid-point of travel.
(b) Mark outline of lower roller arm on lower
roller arm bracket to assist in making adjustments
(Fig. 22).
(c) Loosen bolts holding lower roller arm to
lower roller arm bracket.
(d) Pivot lower roller arm toward center of vehi-
cle to decrease seal compression.
(e) Pivot lower roller arm outward to increase
seal compression.
(f) Tighten lower roller arm bolts.
(g) Verify alignment. Re-adjust as necessary.
NOTE: Adjusting seal compression at the B-post
can affect door flushness the C-post.
STABILIZER ADJUSTMENT
(1) Open sliding door.
(2) Loosen the bolts holding the male stabilizers to
the sliding door enough that the stabilizers can move
with some effort.
Fig. 20 Sliding Door Lower Roller Arm Bracket
1 - LOWER ROLLER ARM BRACKET
2 - SLIDING DOOR
Fig. 21 Sliding Door Upper Roller Arm
1 - SLIDING DOOR
2 - UPPER STOP
3 - UPPER ROLLER ARM
23 - 172 DOORS - SLIDINGRS
SLIDING DOOR (Continued)

(4) Align hood latch by placing latch over net
pierced tabs. If alignment is required, flatten or
grind tabs.
(5) Verify hood operation and alignment. Adjust as
necessary.
(6) Tighten attaching bolts to 13.5 N´m (10 ft. lbs.)
torque.
LATCH RELEASE CABLE
REMOVAL
(1) Remove hood latch.
(2) Disengage cable end from hood latch locking
mechanism.
(3) Slide cable case end sideways in keyhole slot of
hood latch while pinching barb on cable case closed.
(4) Remove cable from latch (Fig. 4).
(5) Remove hood release handle from instrument
panel.
(6) Disengage rubber grommet cable insulator
from hole in dash panel.
(7) Attach a suitable length of mechanic's wire to
latch end of cable to assist cable installation.
(8) Route cable back from latch through engine
compartment toward dash panel near power brake
booster (Fig. 5).
(9) Remove attaching clips from cable case.
(10) From inside vehicle, pull cable through dash
panel until mechanic's wire is exposed.
(11) Disconnect cable from mechanic's wire.
(12) Remove hood release cable from vehicle.
INSTALLATION
(1) Place hood release cable in position under
instrument panel.
(2) Attach latch end of hood release cable to
mechanic's wire protruding through dash panel.
(3) Route cable forward through engine compart-
ment toward latch by pulling on mechanic's wire
(Fig. 5).
(4) Disconnect mechanic's wire from cable.
(5) Engage rubber grommet cable insulator into
hole in dash panel.
(6) Install hood release handle into instrument
panel.
(7) Place cable in position on latch.
(8) Slide cable case end sideways into keyhole slot
of hood latch.
(9) Engage cable end into hood latch locking mech-
anism.
(10) Install hood latch.
(11) Install attaching clips to cable case and install
clips into original holes in strut tower, fender, head-
lamp area, and radiator closure panel crossmember.
LATCH STRIKER
REMOVAL
(1) Release hood latch and open hood.
(2) Remove bolts attaching striker to inside of
hood.
(3) Remove hood latch striker from vehicle.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position hood latch striker on vehicle.
(2) Install bolts attaching hood latch striker to
hood.
(3) Align hood latch striker to engage smoothly
into hood latch.
(4) Verify hood operation and alignment. Adjust as
necessary.
(5) Tighten attaching bolts to 13.5 N´m (10 ft. lbs.)
torque.
Fig. 5 Hood Release Cable Routing
1 - GROMMET
2 - HOOD RELEASE CABLE
3 - RADIATOR CLOSURE PANEL CROSSMEMBER
RSHOOD23 - 201
LATCH (Continued)

(15) Clean access urethane from exterior with
Moparž Super Kleen or equivalent.
(16) Apply 150 mm (6 in.) lengths of 50 mm (2 in.)
masking tape spaced 250 mm (10 in.) apart to hold
molding in place until urethane cures.
(17) Engage wire connectors to windshield
defroster grid.
(18) Install A-pillar trim panels.
(19) Install cowl cover and wipers.
(20) Install inside rear view mirror.
(21) After urethane has cured, remove tape strips
and water test windshield to verify repair.SLIDING DOOR GLASS
REMOVAL
The temperature of the vehicle should be at least
21É C (70É F) before removing the stationary quarter/
sliding door glass. Butyl sealer becomes more pliable
at high temperatures.
(1) Remove interior trim as necessary to gain
access attaching locations on back of glass.
(2) Remove nuts holding stationary glass to fence.
(3) Using razor knife, cut butyl sealer holding
glass to fence from between the mounting studs (Fig.
4).
(4) Push glass from opening.
INSTALLATION
The temperature of the vehicle should be at least
21É C (70É F) before removing the stationary quarter/
sliding door glass. Butyl sealer becomes more pliable
at high temperatures.
The stationary glass fence should be cleaned of all
old butyl sealer.
(1) Applya6mm(0.25 in.) butyl tape around
perimeter of glass assembly encapsulation track.
Ensure that the butyl tape is wrapped around the
mounting studs.
(2) Place the glass into the opening and insert
mounting studs through holes in fence.
(3) Install nuts to hold stationary glass to fence.
CAUTION: Tighten nuts to 3.4 N´m (30 in. lbs.)
torque in the sequence indicated. Do not over
torque, or glass breakage may result (Fig. 4).
Fig. 2 Work Surface Set up and Molding Installation
1 - WINDSHIELD AND MOLDINGS
2 - BLOCKS
Fig. 3 Lower Windshield Into Position
1 - WINDSHIELD
2 - COMPRESSION SPACERS
Fig. 4 Sliding Door Stationary Glass
1 - NUMBERS INDICATE THE TIGHTENING SEQUENCE
2 - 6mm BEAD OF BUTYL TAPE
3 - BODY SIDE/SLIDING DOOR GLASS
RSSTATIONARY GLASS23 - 245
WINDSHIELD (Continued)

CAUTION: Open the left front door glass before
installing rear window to avoid pressurizing the
passenger compartment. If a door is slammed
before urethane bonding is cured, water leaks can
result.
Allow the urethane at least 24 hours to cure before
returning the vehicle to use.
To avoid stressing the replacement rear window,
the urethane bonding material on the rear window
fence should be smooth and consistent to the
shape of the replacement glass .
(1) Place replacement glass into rear window open-
ing.
(2) Verify the glass lays evenly against the pinch
weld fence at the sides, top and bottom of the
replacement rear window. If not, the fence must be
formed to the shape of the new glass.
(3) Using a grease pencil, mark the glass and lift-
gate in several locations to aid installation.
(4) Remove replacement glass from liftgate open-
ing.
(5) Position the rear window inside up on a suit-
able work surface with two padded, wood 10 cm by
10 cm by 50 cm (4 in. by 4 in. by 20 in.) blocks,
placed parallel 75 cm (2.5 ft.) apart (Fig. 2).
WARNING: DO NOT USE SOLVENT BASED GLASS
CLEANER TO CLEAN REAR WINDOW BEFORE
APPLYING GLASS PREP AND PRIMER. POOR
ADHESION CAN RESULT.
(6) Clean inside of rear window with ammonia
based glass cleaner and lint-free cloth.
(7) Apply molding to top and bottom of rear win-
dow.
(8) Apply Glass Prep adhesion promoter 25 mm (1
in.) wide around perimeter of rear window and wipe
with clean/dry lint-free cloth until no streaks are vis-
ible.
(9) Apply Glass Primer 25 mm (1 in.) wide around
perimeter of rear window. Allow at least three min-
utes drying time.
(10) Apply Pinch weld Primer 19 mm (0.75 in.)
wide around the rear window fence. Allow at least
three minutes drying time.(11) If a low viscosity urethane adhesive is used,
install compression spacers on the fence around the
rear window opening (Fig. 7).
(12) Apply a 10 mm (0.4 in.) bead of urethane
along center line of rear window fence.
(13) With the aid of a helper, position the rear
window over the rear window opening and align the
reference marks.
(14) Slowly lower the glass to rear window opening
fence. Guide the molding into proper position as nec-
essary. Push glass inward until molding is flush to
liftgate surface (Fig. 7).
(15) Clean excess urethane from exterior with
Moparž Super Kleen, or equivalent.
(16) Apply 150 mm (6 in.) lengths of 50 mm (2 in.)
masking tape spaced 250 mm (10 in.) apart to hold
molding in place until urethane cures.
(17) Install rear window side moldings and wiper
arm (Fig. 6).
(18) Install interior trim.
(19) After urethane has cured, remove tape strips
and water test rear window to verify repair.
Fig. 7 Lower Rear Window Into Position
1 - REAR WINDOW WITH MOLDING
2 - LIFTGATE
RSSTATIONARY GLASS23 - 247
REAR DOOR GLASS (Continued)