2000 SAAB 9-5 Owners Manual

209 Car care and technical information
Washing the carWash the car frequently. When the car is
new, wash the bodywork by hand, using just
cold water – a brush attachment on the end
of a hose is ideal. Do not use automatic car
washes for the first five or six months,
before the paintwork has hardened prop-
erly. Thereafter, use a high quality car wash
soap added to lukewarm water.
Remove any bird droppings without delay,
as these can discolor the paintwork and
prove difficult to polish out.
Use a soft cloth moistened with methyl alco-
hol to remove splashes of tar or asphalt. Do
not use strong cleaners, as these can dry
out the paintwork. The underside of the car also needs wash-
ing regularly, and this should be done extra
thoroughly at the end of winter. Clean the
underside of the car by hand if the car is usu-
ally washed in an automatic car wash with-
out special facilities for underbody cleaning.
Never wash or leave the car to dry in the
sun, but wipe it dry with a chamois leather
immediately after washing to avoid smears
and streaks.
Clean the window glass inside and out using
a high quality window cleaner. This is partic-
ularly important when the car is new, as
upholstery and trim have a tendency to
sweat a little at first.
Keep the glass well cleaned, as this helps to
prevent misting.
Waxing and polishingDo not wax a new car during the first three
or four months. In fact, there is no need to
polish the car before the paintwork has
started to go dull through oxidation. Other
than in exceptional cases, do not use abra-
sive polishes containing a cutting agent on
a new car. Always wash the car thoroughly
before waxing or polishing.
NOTEAvoid using any alcohol-based cleaners
on the front and rear light clusters, as
these can cause cracking of the lenses.
NOTE The door mirrors must be fully
retracted before the car enters an
automatic car wash.
 Remove fixed antennas, e.g. for
mobile phone, before putting car
through an automatic car wash.
 Try your brakes on leaving a car wash.
Wet brake discs reduce the braking
effect.
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210 Car care and technical informationEngine compartmentClean the engine compartment using an
engine detergent and rinse with hot water.
Cover the headlights and do not aim the
spray nozzle on the
Radiator.
 Throttle cable.
 Throttle housing.
 Other engine controls.
 The alternator.
 Ignition system and other electrical com-
ponents.
Additional care should be taken if using a
high-pressure washer. Hold the nozzle at
right angles to the area to be cleaned, which
is particularly important when spraying
labels.
Do not use gasoline as a cleaning agent or
solvent when carrying out repairs or mainte-
nance. Saab recommends the use of envi-
ronmentally safe degreasing agents.
Touching up the paintDamaged paintwork should be treated as
soon as it is discovered: the longer it is left,
the greater the risk of corrosion. The
anti-perforation warranty does not cover
corrosion resulting from untreated defects.
Paintwork damage sustained in a collision is
usually extensive and can only be properly
restored by professionals.
However, you can repair small scratches
and stone-chip damage yourself. The nec-
essary tools and materials, such as primer,
touch-up paint and brushes, are available
from your Saab dealer.
In the case of minor flaws in the paintwork,
where the metal has not been exposed and
an undamaged layer of paint remains,
touch-up paint can usually be applied
directly, after any dirt has been scraped
away using a pointed knife.
If corrosion has already set in, e.g. as a
result of stone-chip damage, use a pointed
knife to scrape off all surface rust. If possi-
ble, the damaged area should be taken
back to the bare metal. The metal should
then be primed with two thin coats of primer
applied by brush.
After the primer has dried, apply several thin
layers of topcoat enamel until the surface of
the repaired area is flush with the surround-
ing paintwork.
IB1334
Surface-treatment composition 1 Body panel
2 Zinc (certain panel sections only) 7.5 µm
3 Phosphate coating
4 Cathodic ED 28 µm
5 Intermediate coat 35 µm
6 Metallic base 15 µm
7 Clear enamel /solid enamel 40 µm
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211 Car care and technical information
Stir both primer and touch-up enamel thor-
oughly before use and allow each coat to
dry before applying the next.Two-coat enamel As the name implies, two-coat enamel is
applied in two operations. The first coat, the
base color, contains the pigment, metal
flakes and binder. The second coat consists
of a clear enamel, which provides the final
gloss for the paintwork and protects the
base from moisture and environmental con-
taminants.
Touch-up stone-chip damage as follows:
1 Thoroughly clean the damaged area.
2 Apply the primer, base color and finally,
the enamel. To achieve the best finish,
apply two or three coats of primer.
Anticorrosion treatmentThe entire car is corrosion-protected at the
factory in different stages by an electrolytic
immersion coating and a polyester-based
protective coating to protect against corro-
sion caused by stones flung up by the
wheels. A thin penetrating anti-rust oil is
also applied in cavities and body members.
In addition to conventional anti-corrosion
treatment like painting, underbody treat-
ment and cavity treatment, most of the body
panel surfaces are galvanized. These
include the hood, the doors and the under-
body.
The anti-corrosion treatment on the under-
side of the car and inside the wheel arches
is particularly exposed to constant wear and
possible damage, the degree of which will
obviously depend on driving conditions.
What causes rust?Steel body panels of automobiles are sub-
ject to rusting whenever air and moisture
manage to penetrate the protective finish,
and body panels may rust through if the pro-
cess is unchecked. Rusting can occur wher-
ever water is trapped or where the car’s
panels are continuously damp. Damage to
paint and undercoating by stones, gravel
and minor accidents immediately exposes
metal to air and moisture. Road salts used
for de-icing will collect on the bottom of the
car and promote rusting. Areas of the coun-
try with high humidity have great potential
for rust problems, especially where salt is
used on roads or there is moist sea air.
Industrial pollution (fallout) may also
damage paint and promote rusting.
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212 Car care and technical informationPreventive maintenanceThe following procedures are necessary to
help protect against rusting. Refer also to
the terms and conditions of the Sheet Metal
Coverage described in the warranty book-
let.
1Wash the car frequently, and wax at
least twice a year. Under adverse con-
ditions, where there is a rapid buildup of
dirt, sand or road salt, wash your car at
least once a week. After extreme expo-
sure to salted snow or slush, evidenced
by a white film on the car, wash the car
immediately. Frequent washing will pre-
vent paint damage from acid rain and
other airborne contaminants such as
tree sap and bird droppings. If any of
these contaminants are noticed on the
car the finish should be washed immedi-
ately.
 Begin washing by rinsing the entire car
with water to loosen and flush off heavy
concentrations of dirt (include the
underbody).
 Sponge the car with a solution of either
a good quality car soap or mild general
purpose (dish washing) detergent and
water.
 Rinse car thoroughly with clean water.
 After washing, check and clear all
drains in doors and body panels.
 Wipe the car dry, preferably using a
chamois.2Clean the underside of the car during
the winter. Use high pressure water to
clean the car’s underside (floor panels,
wheel wells) at least at mid- winter and
in the spring.
3Inspect the car frequently for leaks or
damage, and arrange for needed
repairs promptly. After washing or after
heavy rain, check for leaks. When wash-
ing the car inspect body surfaces for
paint damage. While checking for leaks,
lift the floor mats and check beneath
them. Water can collect in these areas
and remain for prolonged periods. Dry
any wet areas including the floor mats.
Have leaks repaired as soon as possi-
ble.
Use touch-up paint to repair small
scratches or minor finish damage. Areas
where metal is exposed will rust quickly
and MUST be repaired immediately by
touch-up or professional repainting.
Rust must be removed, the bare metal
primed and painted. Major body
damage should be repaired immediately
and new panels or exposed areas
should be undercoated with anti- corro-
sion material.
Repairs of this type are the owner’s
responsibility and are not covered under
warranty.4Inspect the undercoating and touch
up if necessary. Pay particular atten-
tion to the fenders and wheel housings,
which are exposed to abrasion by flying
gravel, etc. If the composition has worn
or flaked off, the steel must be thor-
oughly cleaned and dried before a fresh
coat is applied. The cleaning is best
done with a scraper and a steel wire
brush, followed by washing with solvent.
Apply the new coating thinly, as other-
wise it may run off or fall off when dry.
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213 Car care and technical information
For long tripsBefore setting off on a long journey, it is
advisable to have your car checked over by
your Saab dealer.
Obtain a few important items to take along
on your journey such as spare bulbs, wiper
blades, fuses, a Poly-Vee-belt and the like.
You can check some points yourself before-
hand:
 Make sure that the engine is in good con-
dition.
 Check that no oil or gasoline leaks out of
the engine or gearbox/transmission.
 Inspect the Poly-Vee-belt and replace it if
it shows any signs of hard wear.
 Check the battery charge.
 Check the tires for tread pattern and air
pressure, including the compact spare
wheel.
 Check the brakes.
 Check all bulbs.
 Check for the presence of the tool kit and
the jack in the car.
Recovery and/or
recycling of automotive
materialsA typical car consists of metals (65–75%),
plastics (10–14%), rubber (5%) and small
quantities of glass, wood, paper and tex-
tiles.
Some of these materials can be recycled,
while others can be recovered in chemical
processes for reuse in new products or as a
source of energy.
While the Saab 9-5 was still at the draw-
ing-board stage, Saab engineers were
giving serious consideration to how the
maximum quantity of materials could be
reclaimed from the car on its eventual
scrapping. To facilitate sorting, plastic parts,
for instance, have been marked to identify
the precise nature of the plastic.
Approximately 90% of the materials in the
car can be recycled or recovered, where
facilities exist.
Before the car is scrapped, all the oils and
other fluids that could pollute the environ-
ment should be recovered from the car. It
may be of interest in this context to learn that
the refrigerant used in the Saab 9-5’s A/C
and ACC systems (R134a) contains neither
CFCs nor any other chlorine compounds.
1 A-pillar trim: PP, PP/EPDM
2 Windshield trim: PP, PP/EPDM
3 Seals: EPDM
4 C-pillar trim: PP
5 Rear light cluster: PMMA
6 Corner infill panel: PPO/PA
7 Rear bumper, cellular core: expanded PP;
sheathing: PP/EPDM
8 Side-window casing: PP/EPDM
9 Fuel tank: PE
10 Side trim: PVC
11 A-pillar upholstery trim: PC/ABS, textile
12 Rearview mirror: ABS
13 Sill scuff plate: PP/EPDM
14 Wheel-arch liner: PP
15 Wheel cover: PA
16 Direction-indicator lamp lens: PMMA
17 Washer-fluid reservoir: PE
18 Front spoiler: PP/EPDM
19 Front bumper, cellular core: expanded PP;
sheathing: PP/EPDM
20 Fan shroud: PP
21 Radiator grille: ABS
22 Scuttle panel finisher: PC/ASA
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214 Car care and technical information
Headlamp aimingThe vehicle is equipped with vertical and
horizontal aim indicators. The aim has been
preset at the factory and should normally
not need further adjustments. This is true
even though your vertical and horizontal
aim indicators may not fall exactly on the "0"
(zero) marks on their scales.
If your headlamps are damaged in an acci-
dent, the headlamp aim may be affected. If
you believe your headlamps need to be
re-aimed, we recommend that you take it to
your Saab dealer for service, however, it is
possible for you to re-aim your headlamps
as described in the following procedure.
WARNING
Before checking/adjusting the headlamp
aiming, switch off the engine to avoid
danger of fingers and hands being injured
by moving parts.
The radiator fan can start up even when
the engine is switched off.
IB526
ABS Acrylonitrile-butadiene-styrene
ASA Acrylonitrile-styrene (acrylic
plastic)
EPDM Ethylene-propylene rubber
PA Polyamide (plastic)
PC Polycarbonate (plastic)
PE Polyethylene
PMMA Polymethyl methacrylate
POM Acetal plastic
PPO Polyphenylene oxide (plastic)
PP Polypropylene
PUR Polyurethane
PVC Polyvinyl chloride 1234
5
6
7
98
10
11
12
13 14 15 16 19
18 20 21
1722
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215 Car care and technical information
To check the aim, the vehicle should be
properly prepared as follows:
 Place the vehicle on a level pad or sur-
face.
 The vehicle should be unladen and fuel
tank full, and one person or 160 lbs.
(75 kg) on the drivers seat.
 The vehicle should not have any snow, ice
or mud attached to it.
 Tires should be inflated to the prescribed
pressure.
 Rock the vehicle to stabilize the suspen-
sion.Open the hood and locate the vertical aim
level (B) that you can see through the top of
the headlamp lens.
If you find that the headlamp needs adjust-
ment follow these steps:
1 Locate the vertical aiming device (A).
2 Turn the vertical aiming screw with a
0.24 in. (6 mm) Hexagonal Allen socket
until the bubble inside the level is cen-
tered between the two red lines (zero).3 Check the horizontal aim (1) and adjust
as necessary with a 0.24 in. (6 mm)
Hexagonal Allen socket. Turn the hori-
zontal aiming device (2) until the arrow
aligns with the zero (0) mark.
4 Recheck the vertical aim to make sure it
is still correct after the horizontal aim
adjustment. Readjust as necessary.NOTETo make sure that your headlamps are
aimed properly read all instructions
before beginning. Failure to follow these
instructions could cause damage to
headlamp parts or a not correctly aimed
headlamp.
IB1168
A
B
Vertical adjustmentA Vertical aiming device
B Vertical aim level
IB1167
1
2
Horizontal adjustment1 Horizontal aim
2 Horizontal aiming device
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216 Car care and technical information
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