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To tilt the wheel, hold the steering wheel and pull the
lever. Move the steering wheel to a comfortable level,
then release the lever to lock the wheel in place.
Turn Signal/Multifunction Lever
The lever on the left side of the steering column
includes your:
Turn Signal and Lane Change Indicator
Headlamp High/Low Beam Changer
Windshield Wipers
Windshield Washer
Cruise Control (If Equipped)
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2-36 Cruise Control (If Equipped)
With cruise control, you can
maintain a speed of about
30 mph (48 km/h) or more
without keeping your foot
on the accelerator. Cruise
control does not work at
speeds below about 30 mph
(48 km/h).
If you have an automatic transmission and you apply
your brakes, the cruise control will shut off.
If you have a manual transmission and you apply your
brakes or push the clutch pedal, the cruise control will
shut off.CAUTION:
Cruise control can be dangerous where you
can't drive safely at a steady speed. So,
don't use your cruise control on winding
roads or in heavy traffic.
Cruise control can be dangerous on
slippery roads. On such roads, fast changes
in tire traction can cause needless wheel
spinning, and you could lose control. Don't
use cruise control on slippery roads.
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4-8
If there's a problem with the anti-lock brake system, the
anti
-lock brake system warning light will stay on. See
ªAnti
-Lock Brake System Warning Lightº in the Index.
Here's how anti-lock works. Let's say the road is wet.
You're driving safely. Suddenly an animal jumps out in
front of you.
You slam on the brakes. Here's what happens with ABS.A computer senses that wheels are slowing down. If one
of the wheels is about to stop rolling, the computer will
separately work the brakes at each wheel.
The anti
-lock system can change the brake pressure
faster than any driver could. The computer is
programmed to make the most of available tire and
road conditions.
You can steer around the obstacle while braking hard.
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4-9
As you brake, your computer keeps receiving updates on
wheel speed and controls braking pressure accordingly.
Remember: Anti
-lock doesn't change the time you need
to get your foot up to the brake pedal or always decrease
stopping distance. If you get too close to the vehicle in
front of you, you won't have time to apply your brakes
if that vehicle suddenly slows or stops. Always leave
enough room up ahead to stop, even though you have
anti
-lock brakes.
Using Anti
-Lock
Don't pump the brakes. Just hold the brake pedal down
firmly and let anti
-lock work for you. You may feel the
brakes pulsate, or you may hear air exhausting, but this
is normal.
Braking in Emergencies
At some time, nearly every driver gets into a situation
that requires hard braking.
If you have anti
-lock, you can steer and brake at the
same time. However, if you don't have anti
-lock, your
first reaction
-- to hit the brake pedal hard and hold it
down
-- may be the wrong thing to do. Your wheels can
stop rolling. Once they do, the vehicle can't respond to
your steering. Momentum will carry it in whatever
direction it was headed when the wheels stopped rolling.That could be off the road, into the very thing you were
trying to avoid, or into traffic.
If you don't have anti
-lock, use a ªsqueezeº braking
technique. This will give you maximum braking while
maintaining steering control. You do this by pushing on
the brake pedal with steadily increasing pressure.
In an emergency, you will probably want to squeeze the
brakes hard without locking the wheels. If you hear or
feel the wheels sliding, ease off the brake pedal. This
will help you retain steering control. (If you do have
anti
-lock, it's different: see ªAnti-Lock Brakesº in
the Index.)
In many emergencies, steering can help you more than
even the very best braking.
Steering
Power Steering
If you lose power steering assist because the engine
stops or the system is not functioning, you can steer but
it will take much more effort.
On vehicles with hydraulic brakes, the power steering
and main hydraulic brake system both use the power
steering pump. See ªHydraulic Brake Systemsº in
the Index.
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4-10 Steering Tips
Driving on Curves
It's important to take curves at a reasonable speed.
A lot of the ªdriver lost controlº accidents mentioned on
the news happen on curves. Here's why:
Experienced driver or beginner, each of us is subject to
the same laws of physics when driving on curves. The
traction of the tires against the road surface makes it
possible for the vehicle to change its path when you turn
the front wheels. If there's no traction, inertia will keep
the vehicle going in the same direction. If you've ever
tried to steer a vehicle on wet ice, you'll understand this.
The traction you can get in a curve depends on the
condition of your tires and the road surface, the angle
at which the curve is banked, and your speed. While
you're in a curve, speed is the one factor you
can control.
Suppose you're steering through a sharp curve. Then
you suddenly apply the brakes. Both control
systems
-- steering and braking -- have to do their
work where the tires meet the road. Unless you have
four
-wheel anti-lock brakes, adding the hard braking
can demand too much of those places. You can
lose control.The same thing can happen if you're steering through a
sharp curve and you suddenly accelerate. Those two
control systems
-- steering and acceleration -- can
overwhelm those places where the tires meet the road
and make you lose control.
What should you do if this ever happens? Ease up on the
brake or accelerator pedal, steer the vehicle the way you
want it to go, and slow down.
Speed limit signs near curves warn that you should
adjust your speed. Of course, the posted speeds are
based on good weather and road conditions. Under less
favorable conditions you'll want to go slower.
If you need to reduce your speed as you approach a
curve, do it before you enter the curve, while your front
wheels are straight ahead.
This is especially important with a tractor
-trailer. Try to
adjust your speed so you can ªdriveº through the curve.
Maintain a reasonable, steady speed. Wait to accelerate
until you are out of the curve, and then accelerate gently
into the straightaway.
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4-14
Loss of Control
Let's review what driving experts say about what
happens when the three control systems (brakes, steering
and acceleration) don't have enough friction where the
tires meet the road to do what the driver has asked.
In any emergency, don't give up. Keep trying to steer and
constantly seek an escape route or area of less danger.
Skidding
In a skid, a driver can lose control of the vehicle.
Defensive drivers avoid most skids by taking reasonable
care suited to existing conditions, and by not ªoverdrivingº
those conditions. But skids are always possible.
The three types of skids correspond to your vehicle's
three control systems. In the braking skid, your wheels
aren't rolling. In the steering or cornering skid, too
much speed or steering in a curve causes tires to slip and
lose cornering force. And in the acceleration skid, too
much throttle causes the driving wheels to spin.
A cornering skid and an acceleration skid are
usually best handled by easing your foot off the
accelerator pedal.Of course, traction is reduced when water, snow, ice,
gravel or other material is on the road. For safety, you'll
want to slow down and adjust your driving to these
conditions. It is important to slow down on slippery
surfaces because stopping distance will be longer and
vehicle control more limited.
While driving on a surface with reduced traction, try
your best to avoid sudden steering, acceleration or
braking (including engine braking by shifting to a lower
gear). See ªDiesel Engine Exhaust Brakeº in the Index
for information about using the exhaust brake on
slippery surfaces. Any sudden changes could cause the
tires to slide. You may not realize the surface is slippery
until your vehicle is skidding. Learn to recognize
warning clues
-- such as enough water, ice or packed
snow on the road to make a ªmirrored surfaceº
-- and
slow down when you have any doubt.
If you have the anti
-lock braking system, remember: It
helps avoid only the braking skid. If you do not have
anti
-lock, then in a braking skid (where the wheels are
no longer rolling), release enough pressure on the brakes
to get the wheels rolling again. This restores steering
control. Push the brake pedal down steadily when you
have to stop suddenly. As long as the wheels are rolling,
you will have steering control.
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5-34
If a Tire Goes Flat
It's unusual for a tire to ªblow outº while you're driving,
especially if you maintain your tires properly. If air goes
out of a tire, it's much more likely to leak out slowly.
But if you should ever have a ªblowout,º here are a few
tips about what to expect and what to do:
If a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a drag that
pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the
accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly.
Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to
a stop well out of the traffic lane.
A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a
skid and may require the same correction you'd use in a
skid. In any rear blowout, remove your foot from the
accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by
steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be
very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently
brake to a stop
-- well off the road if possible.
If a tire goes flat, the next part tells you what to do.
Changing a Flat Tire
A flat or damaged tire can be a major roadside problem.
You're very likely to have to go for help. Few drivers of
these vehicles have the necessary equipment aboard to
be able to change a flat tire safely. For example, youhave to have a truck jack that can lift several thousand
pounds and a torque wrench that can generate several
hundred foot
-pounds (newton-meters) of twisting force.
So if you're stopped somewhere by a flat or damaged
tire or wheel, you should get expert help right then.
If the correct equipment is available, though, here is the
procedure to follow.
Does the tire still seem to have air under pressure in
it? If so, stand to the side and look at the wheel. See
if it looks like another wheel on the vehicle. If so, go
on to the next step. If it doesn't, or even if you can't
be sure, stop and get expert help.
CAUTION:
Tire-rim assemblies can explode. If you work on
a pressurized tire mounted on a damaged wheel,
the assembly can expand with explosive force
without warning. You and others nearby can be
badly injured. Don't work around a tire that has
air under pressure in it when its wheel is or might
be damaged.
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If the wheel looks normal, see if the wheel has side
rings and a lock ring around the wheel rim. If so,
they must be seated properly. You can compare with
another wheel on the vehicle as you check for this.
For dual wheels, you have to look between the tires
to make this check. You may not be able to tell
if the side rings or lock rings are seated properly
by looking. If you can't be sure, stop and get
expert help.
CAUTION:
If you work on a pressurized tire mounted on a
damaged wheel, the assembly can expand with
explosive force without warning. You and others
nearby can be badly injured. Don't work around
a tire that has air under pressure in it when its
lock ring or side ring might not be
properly seated.
CAUTION:
Rust or dirt on the wheel, or on the parts to
which it is fastened, can make the wheel nuts
become loose after a time. The wheel could come
off and cause an accident. When you change a
wheel, remove any rust or dirt from the places
where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an
emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel
to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire
brush later, if you need to, to get all the rust or
dirt off.
If the lock ring and side rings seem to be seated
properly (or if the wheel doesn't have these), let the
air out of the tire. You can do this by taking out the
valve core.
If the flat or damaged tire is one of a dual set, let the
air out of both tires of the dual before you take off
the damaged tire and rim assembly.
If you have the correct equipment, put on the spare
wheel and tire assembly.
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